#Just checking, are you saying this <
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Correct. This is on a Pi Zero WH, it doesn't seem to get contact.
I have another that I'm using on a Pi 3 that works great. I bought both of them at the same time a couple years ago.
From some review it seems that either 1) there was a batch that had iffy manufacturing and might be off or 2) the type of pin going through it may make a difference.
could be different pin header dimensions, yes
I would have assumed the Pi Zero and Pi 3B+ use the same pin headers, but they may not. I have a spare Pi 3, I may test that.
I was going to pass a suggestion for 3.3v power pads and/or STEMMA/QT on the next rev on the bonnet (though that may be never)
That's a very useful suggestion in any event.
the pin layout is the same, more like some issue with pin tightness. Are the holes in the shim slightly offset so it fits tightly?
which 2x20 header did you put on the Pi Zero (or did it come with one)?
I don't have it in front of me ATM, I'd have to check. It's the Pi Zero WH, so it's the headers that Raspberry Pi solders on.
i'll see if I have one. Thanks for all this info
Of course. I was also thinking of sandwiching in a Qwiic pHAT (5142).
I'll check the board and the Pi 3 tonight.
I found my sample of shim and it seems tight (didn't check electrically) on the various Pi Zero's I have, but they all have headers I soldered myself. I also have a pHat but I think the header pins may end up being too short after using it. The Pi Zero WH looks like it has regular square pins in the photos, but I don't have one.
in any case I will pass on the suggestion
So trying the Shim on the 0WH again. Power comes through fine, it's the SDA/SCL lines that are having an issue. If I press down on the port-end of the shim, I think it's lifting the board up just enough that it comes into contact with the data and clock lines and boards can be found.
If I put a hat on top of it (like the motor bonnet I plan to use) that levels it out and then while I have power, no devices appear.
you could cheat and tack-solder the shim holes to the pins, just enough to make contact. Or use the SCL/SDA terminal holes, get 3.3V from the back, and ground from the screw terminal
or maybe just adding a little solder on the shim holes will make for a tighter fit
could work with the qwiic hat and the motor bonnet, maybe
some people have trouble
Part of me doesn't want to solder it on since I may some day reuse this for something else but honestly the chance of that is pretty low.
if you are not going to put something on top of the motor bonnet, you could add a wire to the 3.3V pin hole on the top of the motor hat in the 2x20. Again, very little solder, in this case so it doesn't prevent pushing the bonnet on.