#help-with-hw-design
1 messages · Page 52 of 1
I usually include one bulk capacitor (generally electrolytic, but there are some nice multilayer ceramic ones available these days as well), and a sprinkling of ceramic 100nF capacitors, generally one for each power pin.
hey what is the best way to make plated vias like a simple way. im using a cnc mill to make simple pcbs rn
They do make miniature rivets which you can use as vias, just using a tool to apply them to a drilled hole on the board.
ah chemically
Ah, no idea there, sorry. "Chemically" and "simple" don't usually go together, heh heh.
How do you solder a TFT LCD?
Or is it better to have a connector
I am thinking about this one
Order today, ships today. 618 – - Graphic LCD Display Module Transmissive Red, Green, Blue (RGB) TFT - Color SPI 1.8" (45.72mm) 160 x 128 from Adafruit Industries LLC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
I want to use it on a PCB
thin dia wire and a steady hand, connect to a breadboard or perf with those wires
But what if I want to use it on a PCB (finished product)
use the mfg’s footprints; if they have none, custom footprint in kicad, not too difficult with a row of pads at a set pitch
it would be something like this
(this is a rather unkempt example but it gets the point across)
Interesting
So I guess it isnt the hardest thing in the world
and maybe I can find a connector
Thanks
Look for FPC connectors @woeful wyvern
Not saying this is the one you need, but this is an example of an fpc connector I use. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FH12-24S-0.5SH(55)/HFJ124CT-ND/1110381
Great, thanks
If I wanted to do a bunch of designs at once but only one of each, I could do a panel right?
Yeah
note that many fab houses charge extra if you have more than one design in a panel
interesting
Well that makes sense
I like these people so it's worth the expense, within reason
Like, most of them don't do a buncha designs. OSHPark will just fab a buncha designs without requiring you to panelize and DirtyPCBs will let you do a panel.
@limpid nest you can also ask the OshPark people to see if they will make a mini panel for you
Noob at PCB design
is it bad to route QSPI traces one next to another like this? I feel like ive heard it was bad because of interference but wasn't sure
They're short and low impedance, and they're going to adjacent pins at both ends, it seems totally fine to me. You could look at other boards with QSPI connections to see how they're routed.
Seems fine to me
is there any resources on
actually learning to use kicad that yall can recommend?
I just used https://docs.kicad.org/
sure, ti was somewhat confusing in the beginning, but in the end I got it
Documentation for KiCad, the EDA / CAD suite for Windows, macOS, Linux and more.
thanks
Entire step-by-step PCB design process going through the schematic, layout, and routing of a 'barebones' STM32F4-based PCB including USB and a buck converter in KiCAD. All the way from schematic creation, through to four-layer PCB layout and routing, as well as sending it off for manufacture and assembly via JLCPCB. Visit https://jlcpcb.com/RHS ...
Good morning people I need some help. I have a circuit with a few op amps that I am supplying with +5V and -5V volt
The +5V rail works perfectly fine, but as soon as I connect the -5V rail up both the regulator and opamps start to overheat
+9V comes from battery connected normally with + as +9V and - as the GND. And a second battery as -9V from the - and then + going to GND.
Are these the actual op amp part numbers you’re using? The lmv722 appears to be a 5V op-amp, which appears to mean here a maximum (V+ - V-) of 5V
Abs-max V+ - V- of 6V
So you’ll either need to drop to +/- 2.5V, or change to a different op amp
Or choose a pin-compatible op amp with a wider input voltage range
can I use voltage divider from the outpin pins of the regulator to drop down to 2.5?
I’ll be somewhat inefficient if you want to still have a decent output drive. There are probably pin-compatible voltage regulators too with 2.5V outputs.
Can't believe I missed that while designing the pcb
But the easiest solution is probably just a new opamp
No redesigning scale factors of your analog circuit for a different max voltage, and that looks to be a standard footprint so you should have plenty of options
Well thank you Harry I much appreciate it
I'll desolder these opamps and find replacement for them
https://www.ti.com/product/TLC2201AM#product-details##params I think this will work
TI’s TLC2201AM is a Low Noise Precision Advanced LinCMOS™ Single Operational Amplifier. Find parameters, ordering and quality information
+-16 V
Is it realistic to do a home assembly using BGA/WLCSP package?
(To be exact, thsi one: 45 balls, 0.4mm pitch: https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/45B_WLCSP_G2B_3_481x2_699mm_C04-21255a.pdf)
Obviously, I'd need a stencil and reflow oven or hotplate... but is it even a possibility or shoudl I just leave it to professionals?
Precision temperature control can be expensive, but if you have the tools, the process itself is simple.
Realistically, anyone can do it with the right tools, but from an economic standpoint, it might not be worthwhile for a one-off...?
It’s probably possible, but if it’s in any way a new design you’re unsure of, IMO adding the extra factor of “did this solder properly” is going to cause a bunch of pain, especially since you can’t inspect the soldering quality.
The problem is, I am looking at an MCU which currently is only available in WLCSP package
If I could choose between that and QFN, obviously I'd choose QFN, but I am not given that choice - unless I am willing to wait until September 2022
Ooof. PCBA is probably the way to go, but that'll probably hurt your margins somewhat.
Is EAGLE or Kicad better for beginners?
I use Eagle too since I've already learned it, but if you're coming at it fresh, I usually point people to Kicad these days.
interesting
Eagle's days are numbered in Autodesk, IMHO.
i use kicad and love it. its completely free and has loads of online support and tutorials
You think Autodesk is getting rid of EAGLE entirely??
Not getting rid of it, but completing the integration into Fusion 360, at which point the standalone version will probably be deprecated.
(Again, just my opinion, not official or anything.)
Ohhh ok
Noooo - that's not good
F360 is too expensive for me
So Kicad then
Are they similar??
Is it worth it to learn both??
It probably makes you more employable?
I don't see a downside other than it being twice as time consuming
doesnt eagle have a few limits for the free version? i think you can only have a small build area
i'd rather learn kicad at not be at the mercy of a company that only has profits in mind
The only thing I ever ran into as a limitation with the free version was mirroring some boards. Not to say there aren't more, I don't do enough with Eagle to be a good resource in that matter.
Eagle also limits layers in the free version, but the pros at adafruit always manage to get what I would do on 4 layers done in 2!
KiCad is amazing, i have both KiCad and eagle, but i find KICAD having some weird bugs with the GND when you do the ERC (Electrical Rules Check)
Unfortunately, yes. If you want THT you might have to use a prebuilt MCU.
aah alright :/
yeah im just thinking of adding a ESP01 to my board, i have that laying around lol
That being said, castellated holes should be pretty easy to use if you have a half-decent soldering iron.
i got this one laying around
im just gonna plug that in i guess 😄
added 2x4 female headers, and there we go haha
Hey guys, im slightly confused in Kicad, im trying to add pins for the ESP01 to my atmega328p-pu, but it keeps giving the wrong names on the pins. This is what im trying to follow
these are my pins
and this is how i connect them to the Atmega
but when laying out the board/components, the pins have the wrong names 😅
the footprint has ground pads that are connected by the ratsnest, you can edit out the pad connections in the footprint editor and number them accordingly
furthermore, the numbering scheme on the schematic is going down the rows like
1 5 2 6 3 7 4 8
but the footprint has them numbered
7 8 5 6 3 4 1 2
oh i should get a different footprint? 😄
you can just edit it to match the numbering scheme of the actual footprint
prolly better to edit the schematic symbol to match the diagram’s pinout
ohgod, im new to Kicad so its gonna be fun figuring this all out 
well, im inside the footprint editor
and i selected the correct component, do i just drag and drop the numbers on the correct spot? 😅
Got it 
awesome! @sand summit Thank you so much, it worked, i created a custom Connector and a custom footprint branching off of the original ones. And now they correctly connect ^_^
sounds great! np 👍
^_^
Is there someone that does like, PCB overview? I need a review since this is my first PCB, and i would like to know if stuff is connected properly 😊
You can always post it here and people may look at it. I don't want to say I can be a good source as I'm only on PCB #3 🙂
hahaha, is it better to just post pics, or to upload the actual Kicad file? 😄
im not sure the pictures may work fine as long as they are large enough. If someone wants to go more into it they could ask for the files or just link to them i guess
WiFi controlled neopixel board?
Adafruit neopixels include ws2812
yeah but i have actual strips 😄
Using a dip switch for reset?
Yeah i didnt know what the best way is to do it
(i also forgot to add UART, will add that next hehe)
theres no way to upload code atm
Well most people use a more accessible tactile switch
hmmm
And r3 should be a pull-up, but your switch instead shorts 5v to ground
i knew it, i knew something about that was wrong lol
Your voltage divider converts your 5v to 3v, not 3.3v
And it’s probably better to just use an LDO regulator instead for better voltage stability
I would not use a passive divider for power.
The capacitors are probably going to be unpolarized MLCC, so I would make sure your footprint isn’t expecting a big cylindrical capacitor.
i checked, they are the small orange ones :3
Ok cool
And last but not least, what is GPIO0, and why is it connected to ground?
I ask because I don’t know either.
oh haha 😄
If you don’t know why though, it’s good to check and see.
I would if I weren’t on mobile
But to sum up:
Change reset DIP to tactile switch
Change R3 to be a pull-up resistor
Change voltage divider to a LDO regulator
OH
How are you going to program your two chips
Esp01 comes with at firmware iirc but your atmega328p doesn’t seem to have any prog pins
You also don’t seem to have a connector for a power connection
hmm alright, these are gonna be big changes haha
i found this for the GPIO0 pin btw
o
Well, thanks for the tips btw! Appreciate them 😄 gonna write them down and fix them :3
I added the suggested changes, how does it look now? 😄
Added a LDO regulator, which takes in 5v and outputs 3.3v 500mA (ESP01 uses like 250mA, but sometimes spikes to 500mA)
Changed the DIP switch to a tactile switch
Still gotta change the pullup resistor on the reset and add the UART programming interface 😅
Does anyone have experience with TFT displays? I’m making a design for someone and I’m failing to get the TFT to power on. I mirrored the Adafruit design using a similar FPC connector. Only difference in my design is one of the pins they left floating I connected to ground.
U3 is a supervisor IC
The BSS138 N-Channel mosfet I had to find a physical replacement for
I’m using a DMN65D8L
60V 310mA N-CH mosfet
Modeled after the Adafruit breakout: https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/79156
What kind of TFT are you using?
1.3” ST7789 240x240 pixel TFT
Same one Adafruit is using in that schematic I linked
I verified the displays I bought work in with the Adafruit breakout
And you verified the contact side for the FPC connector is the same?
I don't have an Adafruit breakout to verify
Yeah,
Do you get anything? Backlight, at least?
No backlight
I’ve checked the solder connection to the board for the FPC connector too.
3V pins and GND pins prob right
Is reset pulled low or high?
Low active
Adafruit breakout pulls it up to logic high
So pulled high
And no backlight at all?
Nope
in terms of the pin choice?
yeah, the SPI pins are chosen from what worked on a breadboarded prototype
adafruit's design for reference
wait, should have done ratsnest hold on
Oh wait, Adafruit grounds pin 5
You grounded pin 3
I think you selected the wrong bus
only thing i can think of is I need different FPC connectors. it has top and bottom pins in the opening but i don't really know how to tell if they are actually making contact
The Hirose should be bottom only IIRC
Are the contacts facing up when you insert it?
yeah, it's wrap around
dang, i really should have looked. it's bottom contact
okay, found some top contact ones. wish me luck lol..
What layer in eagle represents the board?
Dimension represents the outline
ok, I'm trying to use SVGToEagle to create a board outline
I'm making coronavirus shaped coasters out of PCB for friends who survived the virus
Is this color normal for Eagle in Fusion? for the Dimension layer?
I'm used to black
My dimension layer is usually yellow
Electronics component of Fusion 360 uses different colors than standalone Eagle
Ah true
Where in heaven did they move the ratsnest tool to?
Tools?
Here's my view
All the tools I'd expect to be around ratsnest are there, but no ratsnest
Hm, I found advice to upload libs I want to use to my project folder, but that didn't make the lib available
Question, I have a prototype device that has a microcontroller, lipo battery, and charging chip. It randomly dies sometimes when connected or disconnected from charging. It seems to be very random. I think its due to noise or ESD. Should I turn on WTD and BOD to solve the issue? Do production products generally have these features enabled?
I don't think I recognize either of those terms, but my first thought would be to look at bypass capacitors to reduce the transient spike that occurs when the charger is connected?
watch dog timer and brown out detect
that was my thought as well but scoping the supply, I dont see any major dips or transients
I also have 1uf and 0.1uf cap
But the issue is very random and doesnt happen on my bench.
Ah, depends on the chip then. Which charging chip are you using?
Well it's got an under-voltage lockout. No watchdog timer. If you don't see any dips it's probably not UVLO though....
Anyone else accidentally burn gunk onto their hot plate? And advice for how to clean?
Steel wool?
Isopropyl? Acetone might be too strong, depending on what type of surface finish your plate has
What kind of gunk are we talking?
perhaps burnt on flux residue?
I think it is burnt on flux
The isopropyl on hand is 70%, hasn’t been very effective; getting stronger stuff in a few days
Might give steel wool / acetone a try. I think it’s just a machined finish, not sure if there’s anything applied to it per se
if it's bare metal, for sure give acetone a shot with something abrasive like fine steel wool
or a razor-blade scraper if it's not too soft
Found some left over adhesive remover (isopropyl and acetone mix) when looking for the steel wool, just needed a quick scrub!
Thanks all!
Does anyone know of any cable glands for flat, two conductor cabling?
Or similar product. Something IP rated if possible
nevermind, I was searching the wrong thing
Hey guys, on my standalone atmega328pu, i got these connections (RX, TX) running to my ESP01.
But... how do i make those pins from the atmega328 also available for uploading to the Atmega328p-pu directly? Can i just literally connect onto those lines? or do i have to split something?
also, i think with this setup, the GPIO0 pin is always pulled high, right? which means it will stay in flash mode, and not program mode, so i guess i have to add something for that aswell :/
Was just working on making my own Arduino Mega and was wondering if this was correct so far? The Crystal is https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ECS/ECS-160-18-4X-CKM?qs=7MVldsJ5UawYqyimirccKw%3D%3D . Thanks
I would suggest making the ground trace thicker (or a pour)
will do, just thought .6mm (0.015 inch) traces would be good enough (1.2 amps at 1oz). At least according to https://www.pcbcart.com/article/content/copper-trace-and-capacity-relationship.html
Relationship between PCB Copper Foil Cross-Sectional Area and Maximum Current Carrying Capacity and Temperature Rise. Also introduce elements Determining Maximum Current Carrying Capacity.
guess the original Mega had some 5V rails at 1.2mm
(though, they split off)
might as well go big ha
other than that, if that looks good I'll start figuring out/designing the USB interface part
I meant the thin one under the crystal
gotcha, still, think I should make all the GND/5V larger, especially since it won't hinder the rest of it at all
hey guys, on my previous question, how do i swap the RX/TX mode? I have a standalone ATMEGA328P-PU, but i have a ESP01 connected to its RTX/TX pins.
Issue is, i also need to use those pins to upload code to the Atmega, how do i make a switch to say like ok; I want to upload code to the Atmega now, and after that, i just want the normal working of the Atmega with the ESP01
The original Arduino had 1k decoupling resistors to allow the GPIO signals (if driven) to override the serial signals. You might be able to do the same if you can get the ESP to not drive the signals. In your case it's somewhat further complicated by the voltage divider resistors, which could double as decoupling resistors but I'm not sure how it would all work out.
You can also add in a level shifter with enable pin.
It’s probably more expensive, but an assured solution. Atmega controls said enable pin, with a pull resistor that keeps it disabled by default until the atmega drives the enable line when it wants to talk to the esp32.
Alternatively, you can use SoftwareSerial or similar library, and an entirely different set of pins.
(Or a different microcontroller; IMO even for Arduino-compatibility, the 328p is somewhat long in the tooth)
so, what about putting my Atmega inside the arduino, program it like it has to be programmed, and then just... put it back in the slot?
basically, im not gonna solder the arduino on the PCB, im gonna add a socket in there for it 😄
and i can avoid the Pins for 'programming' the atmega as i program it inside the arduino 😄
If it's socketed, and something that's mostly program once and use forever, that sounds entirely reasonable
awesome, will do that to save alot of hassle 😛
Just one more thing, would this be ok for the RESET button?
Reset lines have pull ups like this
Don’t mind the capacitor, it’s not necessary for atmega328p
Ohh ! Nice! I should apply that :o
It would work if you program once and use forever, but that sounds like a miserable experience for developing SW for this.
(you have to keep switching the 328P between the arduino for programming, then back to your board)
if you've completely written all the SW already with dev kits and breadboards, could work, but at least for stuff I'm working on I strongly prefer to not cut down on my options like that.
Can you leave the ICSP pins exposed?
I think Arduino supports direct-loading firmware as well (not just bootloader) so if you have an ICSP programmer that could be an option, or possibly you could get away with your divider and then a larger series resistor on TX_ESP as long as your UART is strong enough (and it should be).
Ideally you'd then use a 3.3V over-voltage tolerant UART bridge, since w/ 5V you'd be relying on the series resistance and internal ESD protection diodes on the ESP32 to make it not blow up.
I'd only be confident in that strategy if the ESP32 datasheet calls out a specific maximum injection current per I/O pin, and (5V - 3.3V) / (Rseries on TX_ESP) is less than said injection current.
I'm looking to mount a TLC59711 on a board and breakout rgb0-3 as well as v+. If I'm expecting 15mA current from each "LED" (I'm driving relays), can I get away with only having one trace from one of the v+ pins? Or should I connect all the pins on my board at their contact points as well?
If it's a thickish trace?
I'm not sure what you mean by "the V+ pins" in this context
Oh, it's the power supply for the LEDs
Sorry, I slept weird, I'm not communicating well
Are they actually LEDs, or are they relays?
Oh yes relays
Okay, so the TLC59711 is a somewhat interesting choice for that application
built-in PWM when driving relays can be... adventurous if you're not specifically looking to use that feature.
Might I suggest something like: https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/NPIC6C595.pdf
It has the advantage of being ~1/4 the cost
Yeah a friend recommended it and then I put it on a spreadsheet that my boss thought was a purchase request and he bought a bunch. but there's a circuitpython lib for them so that made it easy to choose.
If this is for a work application, I'm not sure how many you bought but I would strongly advise just ditching them and going with something simple like the NPIC6C595
which looks just like a shift register
so I suspect there's a circuitpython library for that as well
The possible grounds for subtle bugs and weirdness trying to use something designed as an LED driver for a highly inductive load like a relay means that you could very quickly waste more than the value of parts in time.
Interesting
I wish I'd consulted this place earlier. Well, I'm ahead of schedule so it's OK.
Would I need to write a custom circuitpython library to run it? It looks like there's only an arduino lib for a similar but not the same chip
Are these shift registers more suited to switching relays than other shift registers?
Yes, these are specifically open-drain outputs with robust output clamping
ok the original design used normal shift registers
So, I'm currently refurbishing a design to get it ready for public use ASAP, but we are duplicating the existing hardware for two other properties, so I can get fancy there. Is the PWM method, even with a fully duty cycle, likely to just plain not work?
This looks like it should map 1:1 with the library here: https://learn.adafruit.com/74hc595/usage
Ahhh, so I'd need to make a breakout board of my own probably? Or buy some DIP sockets?
OH I see these are SMD
So we're back in the land of making my own board again
shoot
If you must have DIP: TPIC6B595N
Pretty much the same part but made by TI and PDIP20
OK and how are these configured, SPI?
Let me read before asking questions actually
thank you so much!
Same deal, shift register interface
(so kind of spi but not quite; but there's a circuitpython library for it)
SPI is kind of a fancified shift register protocol right?
It has more overhead, and you don't get for-free handling of the surrounding signals these shift registers use for output enable, async reset, etc
Oh how many bits are these?
8 outputs per
8 bit? So I could use 2 for 12?
yeah
so what is it about a relay load that is bad for using an LED switcher to control it?
What's the supply voltage of the relay?
In short: the led switcher is not intended for operation with an inductive load; inductive loads "kick" when you let go due to the collapsing magnetic fields in the coil inductance
ahh ok so I'll damage the part?
It could potentially damage the part, and more so I'm not as confident out of the box saying "for sure I can just add a kickback diode and call it a day"
e.g. maybe the LED driver really doesn't like having its outputs driven above the supply voltage at all, or you're now competing between your external protection diodes and the internal ESD protection diodes in the LED driver
ahhh ok, well it's rated for controlling 4-17 volts, does that mean anything?
but is it specifically the kick above supply from the field collapsing that's a problem?
Most commonly, yes. Where PWM just makes this worse by making it happen much more often.
(in fact, it starts to look a lot like a boost converter)
ahh ok
PWM has its purpose in driving relays, especially huge ones
That makes sense. I studied mechanical engineering forever ago and only really had a few weeks where we covered power electronics
people will do clever tricks to save power by first using a huge voltage to force the relay to change over, then drop down to a lower average current to keep the relay held in place
interesting
But again, typically that's on a designed-for-purpose sort of system
For sure
Well it was useful to have the boards to test my code, now I have the bones of something that works, so it wasn't a huge waste of time
and the property I work on has plenty of uses for LEDs 🙂
I'm taking a look at the datasheet, it's not quite clear what's allowed on the output side. They only call out the spec vs. other output channels
Ohhh I see
that's them enumerating output types
okay, so yes this is safe to 17V directly, not just VCC.
So I'd still want an external protection diode as good practice, but w/ a 5V driven relay, it should be okay.
How would the protection diode be wired? My town still has a radioshack so I bet I could grab a few dozen
Across the relay
OK, they seem to have just two inputs, 5V and GND
Yep, so directly from 5V to GND of the relay; its purpose is to continue to allow current to flow in the same direction it's flowing when the relay is on
They may have those?
THey are sparkfun relays
I'm away from work now, but I can post them here monday.
which is accomplished by putting a diode rated for something way over 5V, like 15V, between 5V and GND?
It doesn't actually need to be rated for way over 5V; technically just 5V
(since the DC reverse voltage it sees should is only ever 5V; it's forward-biased when it's taking the brunt of the kickback)
but it's good practice to have some derating due to how things can ring around w/ the capacitance of the diode and such, so 15V seems well-safe.
Most folks tend to use something like: https://www.adafruit.com/product/755
It doesn't need to be super fancy
Like this or swapped?
Other way
I always mix up diodes, it's bad. I internalized it wrong the first time and it's stuck pretty bad
Thank you for your help!

I always remember that usually the line of the diode faces the side you want to block.
So a Schottky diode on a VUSB line would have the line on the 5V side if you label VUSB in and 5V through.
Like a wall
There are instances where you would put the diode the other way but I can’t remember the reasons for that though.
Yeah.... I've never done that
Same
Woul that be the
SCK
MOSI
MISO
pins? if so, I'm using the MOSI pin (PWM) already as a data output for my led strip 😅
Usually when you're putting diodes in the other direction they're zener diodes which have a fixed reverse breakdown voltage (and that voltage is useful in some way)
I believe that those are the pins for an atmega, yes.
I think the zeners still go in the same direction.
More so: zeners are the only* time you expect and are looking for reverse current through a diode.
Heh that asterisk
Hi! I did it on this way now, is it better? 😄
Yeah, much better. The capacitor from my understanding is just a smoothing capacitor so you don’t get weird signal bounce when you press the button
Ah right! Thats why its a polarized cap, right?
No, it should be ceramic
ceramic like this yeah
In eagle, they use the symbol that is generally referred to as a polarized cap. I’ll usually specify the type in the BOM though
hmm alrighty
Yeah, it’s weird
If I use polarized caps, I try to find ones labeled with a +/- on it
well yeah, i find connecting it in the pcb thing so weird, the ratsnest is just, annoying to use lol, but so far connecting it
as u can see, bottom left is the actual reset pin input
Has anyone out there already made an Eagle footprint for the QT Py RP2040?
I have one for the SAMD21 version, but it would need some cutouts for the chips on the RP2040
Clarification - I want to SMD mount the QTPy with the castellated pads
Fantastic - thanks!
there ya go
should be perfect
the header holes might not be perfect but should be pretty close
ah nice - the one i was using didnt have header holes
but I only want those for alignment really 🙂
🙂
should do fine then
the extra long pads are so you can do the soldering with an iron
Is it permissible to ping ElectronicHarry if I'm continuing a discussion we had here yesterday?
Yeah, that’s permissible
@heavy jasper I have a number of 1N4148 diodes, are those acceptable? The radioshack in my town doesn't open until 10 AM and is over an hour from my jobsite
regarding our conversation about my poor choice for driver for relays
I'll start designing a custom board tomorrow with the driver chips you recommended, but I need to get something running soon in order to justify my wage lol
and yeah, we still have a Radioshack. It rocks
Related, how does one get an old fashioned EAGLE library, like you might get from a part generator, into Fusion360 EDA?
Those might be fine for small relays, they're good for 100V and 150mA average current (peak is higher, which is good here).
I'm wondering what the characteristics are of the spike the relay coil produces when de-energized. However, 5V at 20mA doesn't seem like it would be a large relay with a lot of magnetic energy storage.
It's a 20A Sparkfun relay
This project I'm refurbishing is 8+years old, I don't think SF sells the same relay anymore unfortunately
That's annoying. I normally use ordinary power rectifier diodes (like the ubiquitous 1N400X series) for that duty. There aren't any lying around in your junk box?
No unfortunately
I can order some, but I want to get some testing done this week and do one big order on friday
Nominal coil current appears to be 185mA.
I suspect you can get away with using the signal diodes, they're reasonably robust.
So I need beefier diodes? Unless the relay boards already have diodes?
The signal diodes are probably fine (but less so if you are PWMing the enable line, so be careful there!)
Also - this seems like it may be beyond the drive strength of your LED driver
shoot
Yeah, current capability is 60mA per channel
well, I guess I can start designing a board first thing tomorrow
Even the part I had suggested won't work well there, unfortunately
they're only rated for 100mA continuous current.
Ah shoot, the previous design was normal shift registers triggering mosfets
That seems like it'd work just fine
Some MOSFETs include an intentional or parasitic body diode which can serve (it's a different connection than across the coil, but still valid).
I think that diode is going in the wrong direction though?
(for a low-side switch, the coil voltage at the switching node swings initially to massively positive voltage)
Oh, I must have had it backward, I thought the shut-off spike was negative.
so would I need protection diodes for all my FETs?
It's a bit wonky: the collapsing current is a negative dI/dt, but in the reference frame of the inductor "positive" voltage is with the supply higher than the switched node, and positive current is supply flowing to switch node.
so the negative dI/dT makes a switched node much higher than the supply
That does make sense, or flyback boost supplies wouldn't work, I suppose
I was thinking of the damper diode in television horizontal sweep circuits
what would be good parameters for a MOSFET for this situation?
First option: Look at the ones that are currently in use and see if they're still available, or a recommended cross is available.
(Unless they're failing all over the place)
ok, I don't know that the existing design was "good" however
It may or may not be, but if they're operating in your intended environment for a substantial period of time and aren't failing, that seems like a decent starting place.
makes sense. speaking of intended environment lol, the electronics were all left outside exposed to ocean breezes.
for a good part of 3 presidential admins
oh jeez, salt spray / salt fog.
salt fog is one of the worst environmental operating tests for automotive modules
Yeah I'm making IP rated enclosures/connections
the raspberry pi that runs this was screwed to piece of plywood
For connectors like this, do the wires go in where the green lines are?
generally yes
The threads then pull the wire (via the two other metal bits) against the flat plate, clamping it in place
that's what I figured from looking at it but wanted to be sure
So I need to control 12 outputs on 2 8bit shift registers to control 12 mosfets, to control 12 relays, how should the mosfets be configured? This is another thing I internalized wrong unfortunately
appreciate the specificity!
would the signal from the 74HC595 go to the gate of the fet?
Changed the FPC connector and it worked! 😮💨
wooooooo
I managed to find the same one Adafruit uses. Or pretty close anyway
Beautiful. Glad our efforts weren't wasted LOL
Looks really nice! Any plans to sell?
They’re actually for Nick Ruffilo for his Mad Eye Moody Eye cosplay prop 🙂
read that as Mark Ruffalo and thought the eye should be greener
Lol
I am trying to make a circuit diagram with eagle cad, does anyone have some knowledge of this software so I can ask a couple questions?
ask away! My eagle license expired and I'm on a home license of F360 EDA but I know a bit
I just want to make a somewhat basic schematic with an arduino, some bipolar stepper motors with tb6560 controllers and some optic endstops
I think I downloaded a tb6560 library because it didnt seem to be in there
just the schematic? No board?
but since I havent really used the software
yes just schematic
is for a graduation project and I need a circuit schematic, It already works in real life haha but I need the schematic for documentation
I dont know how to place the tb6560
Haha I got you. Well, EAGLE may not actually be the best tool for the job. You can definitely do it in EAGLE but a schematic may be faster in something like LucidCharts
Oh I downloaded eagle because I just googled and some people seemed to say eagle could work
well maybe not that much faster, but a bit. As long as you're OK with your parts not looking like the parts, then EAGLE is fine
if that is better I am willing to try
Let's see what we can do in EAGLE. Did you download any libraries with Arduinos in them?
OK that's where EAGLE falls down a bit for doing stuff that is gonna be read by non engineers or non electrical people. Parts are usually just boxes with leads coming out of them, and they don't look very appealing.
well I am a mechatronics almost engineer
congrats!
I didn't mean you! I meant your audience
so that might not be a problem really
Did the libraries populate automatically? When I had eagle I had to add them myself
i put them into the folder then i went into library manager and added them
I had already added one for the tb6560
but i seem to be unable to find that one in the add part
I lied, it is there
sweet! you can also get power signals from the add part, like 3v3,5V,and GND
great great thank you so much! I'll try to go as far as I can from now on, do you mind if I add you in case I happen to have a random question later?
Sure! But you'd have good luck posting here as well, lots of knowledgeable folks
alright, I am glad someone recommended this place in case I have a question
thank you so much again 🙂
of course! good luck with your project
What is best beginner friendly software for pcb designing
I am absolute noob
can anyone suggest a good software to get started with it
Kicad is the gold standard, but I find EasyEDA slightly easier to use for quick schematics. I think Fritzing is also a popular option that adafruit has a guide or two for.
Thank you for your suggestion
Make a Custom PCB with Fritzing | DIY Pico Mechanical Keyboard with Fritzing and CircuitPython | Adafruit Learning System
I am looking at one of TI datasheets and it seems there is an error there. Can someone confirm that?
Namely, the datasheet is https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tmag5111.pdf
It is a dual channel Hall effect sensor.
The first page says that the outputs are open-drain, which I always took to mean that they are connected to ground when activated and left hi-z otherwise, so they require pull-up resistors.
Yet layout example on page 33 shows pull-down resistors to the ground.
Do you think it is a typo or am I misunderstanding something?
If it’s open drain, I thought that meant it needed to be tied to ground if it’s an output. I could be wrong though
my understanding was based on https://forum.digikey.com/t/what-does-open-drain-mean/716
I think there is something fundamentally missing from the data sheet or an error like you suggested
Maybe reach out to TI’s applications engineers?
Looks like if you tie the open drain to ground it helps with thermal conductance
open drain only means it's high-z when not active, it can be active-low or active-high still
but I think in this case the resistors symbolize the load that you put on those pins
In this case, functional block diagram does suggest that it is active-low:
Presumably the trace angles up under the chip to Vcc, and is just mislabeled as "GND" on the right.
I tried looking at the evaluation board, and it shows the resistors connected to Vcc, which is a copper pour on the component layer (ground goes to a via).
makes sense
I didn't think to look at the evaluation board - thanks!
I have 12 Mosfets in 3 different models (IRF510,IRF640N,IRF740), my local radioshack didn't have 12 of the same model. All of these seem suitable for switching 5V/180mA max, is that right?
The default symbol for +3.3V seems to have changed between EAGLE and Fusion360. This is just a normal power supply symbol still, right?
Is it better to get started with PCB Design with something like EasyEDA? Or is it better to watch youtube videos about Altium tutorials?
If you are considering a free program, KiCAD is a really good choice with lots of people using it and making vids
I'll look into that. I think my university has free Altium licenses for students though.
Ahh
The trap there is the one I fell into, I only know how to use EAGLE because that's what my school offered
That happened to me where my high school only taught modeling with Autodesk Inventor
Depends on your end goal? Altium is a great tool to learn for anyone looking to do it for a living. If you're not likely to design boards as a profession, KiCAD and EAGLE are more than sufficient.
Going from Altium to the free stuff is usually easier than the other way around, though, so if your University is offering you Altium, take it and run with it.
I would potentially want to use it to design basic to intermediate custom boards for the solar car club I'm in at my university.
altium sounds great then
Sounds good! Thank you all for the advice!
good luck in school!
If you're the type of person to be fairly proficient with most software you pick up, you probably don't have to worry about being locked into one over the other. Altium is powerful and has a lot of professional features, but you should be pretty free to experiment with anything once you're proficient in the underlying principles of schematic and board design.
do F360 files have identifying information in them? I'd like to get feedback on something at some point but don't want to doxx myself if I can avoid it. I know that EAGLE files were bare of ID info
uhmmm... despite being shipped later, the components for my pcb are already in, while the PCBs themselves are still MIA as of today...
should've chose tracked mail :/
like, bits arrived some 2½ weeks ago
I like surprises
Usually, me too.
But ~€40 down the gutter, should the parcel be lost? Not a pleasant one.
Oof... yeah, I don't like that kind of surprise
I had a €75 package vanish after arriving in the United States. Happily, the seller sent a replacement.
Question, what is the best way to find high quality libraries for Eagle that include 3d models as well. I recently designed a pcb and the footprint for some components (cp2102, nfets, lm75a etc) were not the best and didnt have silk screen on the correct layer. Neither did they have 3d models.
Did you try the kicad git repo?
Derrrrp, didn't read Eagle 😅
There is a 3D package generator built in to eagle you can use. It will actually make a footprint for you too if you put in the parameters from the data sheet
can F360 EDA models be opened in EAGLE?
I'm a little confused by F360 EDA's part making process. I made a symbol, I made a footprint, and I added the footprint to the device, but I can't see how to add the symbol and connect pins
Oops I goofed it's right there, need my coffee
I'm getting this error, but when I go to the grid settings I see what is expected
well manually turning the grid on fixed it, in case anyone has this issue
for some reason the grid in my PCB was affecting my schematic
so I was wondering, is there a recommended limit on how many pull-up resistors should be on an i2c bus? My design has 3 chips, each with a 10k resistor on each line.
I'd change your username to be in this discord, FYI
yeah lol
The total bus resistance can't be below a certain threshold, do you know how to calculate equivalent parallel resistances?
the total line resistance for the SDA or SCL lines can be calculated with
(1/R_TOTAL) = sum((1/R_N))
so for your case it would be
(1/R_TOTAL) = (1/10,000) + (1/10000) + (1/10000) = 10000/3. It's a neat trick when all your parallel resistances have the same value, you can just divide one resistance value by the number of resistors (in this case 3 per data line)
sure thing! Thanks for taking the time to change your username, wouldn't want you to run afoul of the mods
we're generally G rated here, PG very occaisonally
yeah, i kinda forget some servers have tighter restrictions regarding swearing
I was hoping to get a board review if anyone has time, can I upload Fusion360 Schematic/PCB without uploading personal information? I know EAGLE files were just text devoid of personal info.
For a quick pass, screenshots usually suffice. If you want a detailed review, people have uploaded and downloaded schematics and board files in the past. Takes a bit longer, but someone usually finds time to look at it eventually.
I don't know specifically about F360 files though, never really used them personally for electronics yet...
ok let me get some screenshots first
Schematic screenshot 1:
Screenshot 2
Board shot:
I'm also trying to find a micro-usb version of this connector, or similar but I seem to be filtering wrong (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/usb-dvi-hdmi-connectors/312?s=N4IgjCBcoEwBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIALGHFTCALqEAOALlCAMosBOAlgHYBzEAF9CYAJxwJiECkgYcBYmRAAGBszaROPAcLEgAtHWhyoPAK7KSkcgFYGIw6fIAjIum4ATAAQBbIkt%2BFgDeJG4iX0tsNycgA)
Connectors, Interconnects - USB, DVI, HDMI Connectors are in stock at Digikey. Order Now! Connectors, Interconnects ship same day
That would be a panel-mount connector, not a board mount.
Yeah, I don't see a panel mount option
I was considering making a board that just plugs into this https://www.adafruit.com/product/4213?gclid=CjwKCAjw49qKBhAoEiwAHQVTo4xam_J_zlJnyCpQwfHeG6CnumcXLky3nsrhQpRf4bOjftL0TSoklhoC-CkQAvD_BwE
Does it have to be sealed?
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/conxall-switchcraft/DCP-USBCB-F/5213110
They have some weird adapters like this? Can't find a micro to A atm...
So I need to breakout separate rails of 5V and GND from whatever adapter I use, so I was planning on making a miniboard to do that
Can the 5V from the pi supply enough power to power a linear regulator that needs to provide 240 mA of 3v3?
Ah, it's connected to mains power, so I just need to specify a beefy enough power unit!
Here's a small respin:
Functionally looks fine, but if you have the time, I'd clean up this area for ease of production. You have a lot of space to work with, those traces don't need to be pressed up against each other that tightly...
If you utilize the space on the top right a bit more, you can pull those vias open and give your traces more clearance from each other.
ok I usually respin a board 2-3 times before I order so I'll def address that
although that seems to require making the schematic again, because it seems in F360 that copying a schematic creates a schematic that is either still linked to the first PCB or thinks it should be linked to a PCB already. Frustrating
Otherwise, it's a fairly simple interface board so if your prototype circuit works, the only other things to work on would be primarily cosmetic in nature.
My only concern was I'm using SMD component versions of the DIP 74HC595s I used in my Breadboard. I think they are pin compatible from reading the datasheets
These are all low-speed signals so you should have plenty of freedom to arrange the traces and make the silkscreen look nice.
The SMD components will usually have their own pinout diagrams, so it's best to cross-check the datasheet.
I did, I'm going to do so again to be safe
I'm trying to find an at least IP66 rated, hopefully IP67 rated power connector for my enclosure, what is a good first category in digikey?
Just kinda asking ahead of time. I'll be having to work with circuitmaker, and wanted to know if this would be the place to ask about doubts I have
I don't know that program in particular but if it's EDA related, this is a fine place
we're working with this beauty 😆
looks like old software, hopefully that means it doesn't have a ton of bugs lol!
I think teacher shared this one because it's tiny, as internet issues are very common here. it's a lot of software for a 3MB program
Ahhh very cool!
Nice teacher. I can't guarantee you'll find someone who's used it here, but who knows
circuitmaker still has software releases to this day... hopefully there hasn't been that many changes functionality wise. I'll also try and get a newer version when I can just in case. Anyway, I'll probably be back when I have some component questions 👋
I’m trying to use ATtiny85 as an I2C peripheral on custom board driven by an rp2040 feather. I have it set up so that the feather can boot as an AVR programmer with buffer gates to connect the RP2040s SCK to SCL, and MOSI to SDA, but I don’t know whether I need to protect the other I2C peripherals on the bus from the ‘rogue’ AVR ISP signals while the I2C bus is being repurposed. Would it be sufficient to just put a buffer gate on the SCL clock line between the Tiny85 and the rest of the downstream I2C bus so I can just set it to high impedance during ISP programming? Presumably the other I2C peripherals will just ignore the SDA line if ‘their’ SCL stays pulled high? It works fine on a breadboard without anything isolating the other peripherals from the bus during programming but i don’t trust it.
Is X7R a good choice for output/input caps on this chip? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/NCP1117DT33T5G/921285
And can I get away with 10V rating on both the 3.3V output and 5V input?
X7R should be fine, the 10V rating will give a good leeway, which is useful, as that dielectric loses some capacitance with voltage, so the headroom will be beneficial.
That was my understanding, I usually try for 2.5x rating
Did we discuss solid state relays yesterday?
Yeah, I think so?
I was considering this relay (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensata-crydom/CL240D05R/2330429), but they don't have enough in stock. Does this one seem like it would do the same job? Switching mains power using 3.3V from a 74HC595
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensata-crydom/D2425/139477
Order today, ships today. D2425 – Solid State SPST-NO (1 Form A) Hockey Puck from Sensata-Crydom. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Also needs to be at the end of a twisted pair cable that is 30 feet long, should I employ boosting of some kind?
That seems like it should work. Since it's basically a current loop connection, the long cable shouldn't be a problem. My only worry is if the '595 can drive all the loads at once, if they draw the worst case current.
yeah that was a concern I have as well
You could use a high power '595 like this one: https://www.adafruit.com/product/457
I thought I could get 20 mA out of each pin when all were on at the same time
Does that chip presumably work with the 74HC595 CP lib?
If so, then you should be fine, that SSR specifies a worst case draw of 12mA
let me read the datasheet for the specific spin of '595 I'm considering
Ah shoot, it says +/- 6mA ?
Yeah, that's in the "might work" realm.
That's the protection diode clamp current...
Is this more relevant?
I don't know if that's per pin or not
Adafruit page for the 74HC595 seems to say they are good for 20 mA per pin
Ah but the datasheet says that the max continuous current thru VCC is 70 mA?
That 35mA is the absolute maximum, not intended for ongoing use. The 70mA is the absolute maximum total chip current draw.
This is the relevant section. It doesn't directly state output current capability, but the conditions for the output voltage are given with a 6mA load for a supply voltage of 4.5V and with a 7.8mA load for a supply voltage of 6V.
ahhh ok, I was trying to make sense of that table
I think I'm just going to switch mosfets using the 74HC595, so I don't have to worry about power or CP libs
thank you!
That's a good approach. Note that if you're switching MOSFETs with only 3.3V, you'll need some that get solidly to low resistance on 3.3V. Don't pay too much attention to "threshold voltage", that's just the voltage at which they conduct a detectable amount of current: you'll want MOSFETs that are solidly "on" at 3.3V.
let me pull up a saturation curve
I also need to figure out whether I am hi side switching or low
For example, this popular MOSFET specifies a typical threshold voltage of only 1.8V, but this resistance graph soars near vertical with 4V
So should I pick all the low threshold ones, and then examine the datasheets for a truly low threshold one?
This graph implies you can pull 5A through it with only 3V on the gate, but it would get pretty warm if you did so for long (that ≤60µs note is there for a reason)
Yes, you've got the right idea. Sometimes you have to look at the curves, but often the front page will have useful notes like "Very Low RDS(on) at 4.5V Vgs" or "8.7mΩ@Vgs = 10V".
Rds(on) is the resistance (R) from drain (D) to source (S) with the transistor on.
Yes, you'll want low threshold devices, I'm just pointing out that they're not really "on" at the threshold voltage, that's just the voltage at which they begin to turn on.
I see thanks, I see that I have some datasheetmining to do
Is there a list of common smd components for hobby and prototyping use. like all the jelly bean stuff. I want to build an smd component stash so that I can prototype more quickly but am finding it hard to find jelly bean mosfets, transistor, diodes, common resistors and caps, useful ic's etc.
Is there any stemma qt module layout for kicad out there? I want the same pcb size and connector positions as for example on this board: https://learn.adafruit.com/mpu6050-6-dof-accelerometer-and-gyro
Sadly afaik Adafruit "only" provides the files for Eagle, but not for KiCAD
I think KiCAD can read Eagle files, or there's a translator out there you can use.
You could look at the AdaFruit Eagle parts libraries for a start (or the parts on boards that appeal to you). Another possibility is looking for SMD equivalents to the common through-hole parts listed here: http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/partfinder
Thanks
For resistors and capacitors, there's this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/442
For transistors, there's the MMBT2222 (basically a surface mount equivalent of a 2N2222) for bipolar and 2N7002 (basically a surface mount equivalent of a 2N7000) for MOSFET
For diodes, there's a surface mount version of the common 1N4148, and a Schottky one that's on a lot of AdaFruit boards (and, of course, some LEDs)
they have images as well
I importef it into kicad. Didn‘t know that this was possible, thanks
There are two application circuits for this part ( https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21373C.pdf), one showing only an output cap, and one showing an input and output with these guidelines. I'm not certain whether I meet them, but want to be safe, is it reasonable to just include an input cap to be safe or could that be a problem?
An input capacitor is generally a good idea with most LDOs, but I'm not familiar with this chip in particular. I pretty much always include an input cap in my designs.
you can always leave the footprint unpopulated if it works without it
ah both good points thank you
does anyone know how to renumber parts in Fusion 360 schematics/PCBs? I found a script online but it borked my board completely
Also when is the autorouter permissible?
When you need to deliver a board NOW, you have a fairly low-density design, and your name won't be associated with the mess the autorouter will create. 😅
lolololol
OK, I was gonna try to autoroute it and see if it looked ok, fine to post here?
I have 4 ICs, a total of 28 positions worth of terminal blocks, and a pi header using only power, SPI, and two GPIO pins
Sure, it's fine to post it. That might be low-density enough to work okay, although it's also simple enough to hand-route pretty fast.
I usually have to do 3 or 4 routing schema before I'm happy with it, so it would be nice it autorouter could do it
You weren't kidding. I am pretty sure I've had a nightmare about this creature
I've seen some autorouter shenanigans, but that's wild. I would do the chip positioning differently, so you'd get lots of parallel tracks.
rotate all the chips?
I'd put the shift registers end to end, with the drivers next to them.
short end to short end?
Yes, basically having the broad sides of the shift registers face the broad sides of the drivers.
Yeah: You may have to spin them around, but something like that should let you have a bunch of short parallel traces (this is also what I meant by choosing circuits for routability: arrange to have the inputs on the drivers line up with the outputs on the shift registers)
makes sense, thanks
You could also see if you can find the drivers in the same package, that looks like SO-16, where you can run traces between the pins, which will likely come in handy.
In digikey
s
Oops one sec
In digikey it looks like the driver chip only comes in the package above
although the fusion 360 part package from Digikey doesn't really look like the part on the page
Weirdness, in the filter view, Digikey shows 6601 SN74LS07DBRs, but when you open the product page, none are in stock
Mouser seems to have it, and their picture matches the footprint
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SN74LS07DBRG4?qs=SL3LIuy2dWxn7w3RmwRLvQ%3D%3D This seems to be the same chip
Ah, they're out of the -D and -DR packages which are SOIC-14, which might be easier to route
But these are available: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/SN7407NSR/1575132
Order today, ships today. SN7407NSR – Buffer, Non-Inverting 6 Element 1 Bit per Element Open Collector Output 14-SO from Texas Instruments. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Ah that would be much easier to route
I wonder if DIgikey is aware that their footprint doesn't match the part picture
for the out of stock version
You can always tell them. They do have a "Image is a representation only" note on their pictures.
ah good point
This looks like a much better autorouter output, I laid half the traces myself to give it a good jumping off point
This is a little janky
@unreal flax, if you have a moment, are these vias too close? closest distance is 60 mil
It'll depend on the specs of your fab house, but that should be okay for most places.
I don't know what they do off the top of my head, but they should publish all the numbers, which you can put into the DRC settings to be sure.
ahh I'll have to figure out how to load DRCs into F360
Hopefully JLC has included guidance
Should be pretty similar to Eagle, I'd expect.
I would hope so
This trace says it's .039...., that should be inches right?
Yeah, that looks about right. About 1mm.
Ok, for calculating my minimum trace width I multiplied my worst case current draw by my number of current drawing elements and got .192A, it spits out a required width of 1.58 mil, that would be .00158 or similar from the trace width menu in F360?
Yep. The board house will probably have larger minimums than that.
I'm sort of leery of using anything smaller than .005
That's wise.
Yeah, I tend to default to 10 unless I anticipate having some fine-pitch chips.
Ah gosh, all my autorouting was done in .006
I do have a lot of connections, is it safe to use .006? I don't want to have to redo them
If JLC says 5 is fine, that's typically their "we guarantee this will work" number, so you don't have to have any margin on it if you don't want to. So feel free to stick with 6 if you like.
noiice! thanks
Always appreciate the expert advice here
Is there a charity you and @supple pollen like that I could make a small donation to?
Just pay it forward by helping other folks. 😁
haha ok!
@silk lark Hello! Are you around and up for being a second set of eyes on something? I'm making a Fritzing object and it has a lot of components. (Well not a ton, but more than usual.) Anyway, I want to make sure none are missing. So I would send you a screenshot of the thing and you would take a look to make sure there aren't any empty pads. I'm pretty sure there's not, but I have missed things before.
sure, though I'm not an expert for the breadboard mode in fritzing, I mostly use it for PCBs
This is an SVG. I haven't even imported it into the Fritzing app yet.
but I might catch somehting
are the Rt IO and CL pins also connectedable?
Yeah they will be.
Like I said, it's not in Fritzing yet, it's only the image of the part.
Those will be, and the colored dots on the JST connectors will be as well.
I think that's it.
yeah, looks good
Ok thank you!
someone who knows the part might give better feedback
Yeah, agreed, but some feedback is better than no feedback, and that's the other option for most of today 🙂
I can see two test points, but I assume those are fiducials for the PNP
if you take aesthetic advice, I would make the PCB itself a bit brighter than 100% black, and the silkscreen a bit darker than 100% white, but that's me
Hmm, fair enough. I think that would involve a ton of manual work, or recompiling the software with updated numbers, which I have had to do once, but couldn't do again if I tried.
yeah, not worth it probably
Thanks though! Appreciate it.
just saying the contrast is very high here
Yeah. They used to be blue when we had the blue PCB house. But then we went with black, and that's what Limor asked for. So I went with it.
Prototypes are still all kinds of colors, but most everything else is black PCB. Which isn't true black. But the Fritzing objects are.
you know, even the shiny black pcbs are not Vanta Black black
Is there a safeish way to test the mains current coming thru a relay like this? Can I just hook my multimeter in line with one of the hot wires?
If I'm simply using a MOSFET as a switch, can I mostly ignore the Safe operating area and just use the device maximum current/votlages as a guide? Eg Can the AO3400A be used to turn a 3A device on/off?
As long as you avoid having maximum current and voltage at the same time, and have sufficient heatsinking for the average dissipated power, you'll generally be okay.
Hoping for a second revision review, if anyone has time. Here's the schematic in 2 parts
And the board in 2 parts
That's a solid improvement on the previous version!
Some things looks strange, but it is probably of low-res rendering
can it output PDF?
Let me see
heh, ran the PRINT command in P360 EDA and it's hung
one moment
I can print it as a PDF, but it's pretty small
well, PDF can be maginified indefinitely
Heres the board, you can zoom in on it
I was getting and airwire there, so I created a new path to 3v3, let me see if it isn't needed
and this thin red line around U4 is not on copper layer, right?
do you intend to print designators (U1,...) and part numbers (SN74...) on silkscreen?
Just the designators, haven't cleaned it up yet
Without that trace, there isn't a path to 3v3 for that pin
some of them are on top of SMD pads
yeah it's a mess atm
Yeah
I'm told that the part that takes 3v3 signals to activate can run at 5V and be triggered by 3v3
The open collector arrays
*must take 5 volts
ok
Does that 3v3 trace you called out seem like a major concern?
I'd try and understand why the software complains about airwire even though it seems it is connected to the pour (I understand that the pour is 3.3V?)
yeah it is. I I think that that pad is completely surrounded by traces, blocking the actual 3v3 signal from reaching the pad
Can anyone help me figure out what this circuit is trying to do? I'm in the enviable position of having no schematics or explanations. The IC is a ULN2803A. It doesn't SEEM to be functional at all. The circuit is just supposed to switch the relay
I think the outputs of the darlington are tied to the terminal block not touching my thumb, and there's nothing tied into the outputs
5v/gnd for the relay come in at the terminal block my thumb is on
I think the array is vestigial and can be ignored
makes sense, but there's nothing sinking current into it
Presumably the relay coil is connected between a voltage supply and the 2803, so it sinks current through the coil to actuate the relay.
but there aren't any wires leading to the input to the 2803?
is it just me having problem when ordering assembly from JLCPCB - their preview commonly shows components slightly shifted?
(this is is using KiCad to export .pos file)
I've gotten feedback that their preview isn't 100% accurate for boards but I don't know about assembly.
I just can't figure out why... it is not that I got the sign wrong, or units wrong - it is a minor shift, like 2mm
Any chance the library part doesn't have the coordinate origin at the chip centroid?
i could believe it for something complicated, but for 0603 smd resistor?
If it's a couple of specific components, I would hope so. It's not like a computer algorithm really cares for the difference between a 100-pin IC and a SMD resistor, as long as the definitions are there.
well, in this one case it was for all components - including resistors.
A fixed amount?
Sounds less like a lib issue and more of a graphical one on their end....
maybe...
These relays seem equivalent for my purposes, switching mains power with 5V switching signal, can anyone see a relevant difference between the two? I sure can't
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensata-crydom/CL240D10R/14799475
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sensata-crydom/CL240D10/2330435
I don't know what AC - zero cross means, but it seems the be the only difference. Only asking because they don't have enough stock of the CL240D10
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AC zero cross means even when you disengage the relay, the current continues to flow until the AC sinusoid reaches zero. These are commonly used for switching AC power because trying to open the circuit while the voltage isn't zero can potentially cause the extra energy to discharge in an undesirable way.
Depends where your mains go to. If you have a lot of sensitive AC components, zero cross is highly recommended. If you just have an AC/DC converter that's robust enough to casually brush off the inrush, it doesn't make a difference.
Sometimes Zero-Cross is desired to be able to force a circuit open with a higher response time. It all depends on application.
It's 12 relays, mostly powering AC LED christmas lights but there are a few motor drivers with AC adapters powering the motors
Zero crossing (or burst-firing) control is an approach for electrical control circuits that starts operation with the AC load voltage at close to 0 volts in the AC cycle. This is in relation to solid state relays, such as triacs and silicon controlled rectifiers. The purpose of the circuit is to start the triac conducting very near the time poi...
For your application, it's neither necessary nor undesirable. Your devices might not be timed as strictly with a zero-cross, but if you can accept a max 10ms deviation on your timings, you can take the zero-cross.
so what's desirable about zero cross in my application? I'm reading the wiki now
Would non-zero cross not have the 10 ms delay?
It would, and I don't know what the effect of a current inrush would be for your lights, but I expect it to have virtually no effect on the motors.
Actually, I'm pretty sure the lights won't care either, since LED dimmers use PWM.
hmm ok, I'll see if another supplier has the zero cross ones, 10ms isn't a big deal and I can account for it in my code if I need to
You probably don't need zero-cross, since it sounds like it's just LEDs and AC/DC converters.
It's not a fixed 10ms delay, either, since it has to do with how your timings correspond to the zero crosses in the AC source.
ok cool! Thanks as always
I'm making a breakout-for-a-breakout so that I can mount a sparkfun Breakout that doesn't have mounting holes. Here are the relevant dimensions from the SF part
and my mounting board
Anything look hinky at a first pass? I'm concerned that .15" isn't enough spacing
Can't use a male and female header?
What's that?
You know, header pins and female headers used to mount microcontrollers to other boards
Oh, this is for panel mounting instead of board mounting
NVM
Oh I thought you meant some product I'd never heard of XD
No, 0.15 isn't enough to clear the edge of the board above.
.25?
Depends on what you're putting in those holes.
just pin headers, I want to expose the all the pads on something that can be mounted to acrylic
Assuming they're a 0.1" pitch header footprint, you want to clear the edge of the board by at least the header's width
Oh, wait
and I have headers and calipers! I should have thought of this, but alas I have a cold and missed my morning caffeine. Or I'll blame that 😛
ok cool, just need to rearrange a bit
.2" should work too, but 0.25 will give you a bit of clearance on those pins
clearance is good in this case, may need to do some fiddly soldering
In any case, you should also consider what you plan to mate to the pin headers when you define clearances.
For a standard female socket dupont, 0.05" from hole center to edge of board may be enough, but your sockets would rub right up against that board above it...
For a board-mounted female header, you have to consider where on that board your sockets are as well.
I was planning on soldering the breakout male pins directly to the board I'm making, but I could probably get away with female headers, and it might be better
although that would put the breakout board pretty hi up on the breakout-breakout
Up to you. If you're only making one or two of these things, you don't have to consider manufacturability...
I'm making 3, and I'm gonna use a different chip for future designs most likely
And I'm bringing the boards up myself so it's not too bad
when measuring mains current coming thru a relay with a clamp meter, should I be putting the clamp around just one of the wires, or both?
Ah fluke, always in my heart
Hey folks, need some quick help, if anyone's around.
Is this called "voltage shifting"?
I'm used to "level shifting" or "voltage regulators" but I'm not sure how to word this.
I have to ask a question about it and don't want to look uninformed. Even though I clearly am. 🙄
@silk lark Are you still around? Sorry for pinging again.
sure, no problem
What do I call what's happening to the I2C pins in that screenshot?
I can get more of the schematic if you need it. That seemed like the section I needed info about.
yes, that is a logic level shifter
Ah. Ok, so I was mixing terminology there.
it changes the voltage of the logic signal
Right right, ok.
no, it is voltage shifting
logic level = voltage
specifically, voltage of a logic signal, but still voltage
So "level shifted" is an accurate way to describe the pins on the other side of it?
Oof, Discord isn't sending.
There it goes.
so "voltage shifting" is correct, "logic level shifting" is a little bit more precise
Ok, great. Thank you so much. I really appreciate it.
both terms work
Excellent
if you are interested in nitty-gritty details, Sparkfun has an article on it: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/logic-levels/all
Ooh. Adding to my list.
Scanning that, it covers some other things I don't understand as well. Good find.
Could 3 strings of LED Christmas lights and 3 motors (can't access so can't give info about them) really only be pulling .5 A?
Motors running with a load on them, also can't give a good estimate of the mechanical load at this time
Yes, if they’re running off of 110vac
They are!
0.5A @ 110Vac is 55W, equivalent to 11A @ 5V or 9.2A @ 12V
So that’s a fair chunk of power, despite pulling only half an amp of current…
Makes sense, it's been half a decade since I did any analysis in AC
Thanks!
I'm just getting current measurements for sizing relays, hoping to be able to spend less
SAMD21 Dev Board with JLCPCB's Purple
Nicely done ✅
That's such a pretty color
@rocky questnice indeed
but where are you getting your SAMD21s? do you have a secret stash or did you find a hidden treasure trove from old days?
major diameter of of 10 screw is 0.19", can I get by with a 0.2" mounting hole in my PCB?
https://pages.mtu.edu/~suits/misc/tapsizes.html. Close fit for #10 is 0.196. However, I don't have any particular experience with PCB hole specifications and their tolerances.
Hm, maybe 205 mil or 210?
is it plated through?
These are recommended for M screws, but you could follow similar guidelines: https://pcbartists.com/uncategorized/pcb-drill-size-for-standard-screws-fasteners/
no numbers but interesting: https://macrofab.com/blog/attaching-your-project-to-things-mounting-holes-and-what-to-watch-out-for/
I don't need to use 10 screws, they're just cheap and can be bought in a store, thanks for the guidelines!
we use 0.1" holes and recommended M2.5 screws for those (howzat for mixing units?!)
#10 is pretty big for a mounting screw
it is
when designing stuff I don't always consider everything I should, and sometimes end up with a bad initial decision trickling thru, fortunately it's an easy fix
I am probably going to use at least #4s, which are greater than 0.1", since my enclosure holes use that
I have some power cables coming into my enclosures, mostly 12V and 5V wall warts. What is the best way to make connections to a board that has pin headers? Should I solder to the pin headers or even leave the headers off and solder to the pin holes?
Or use female dupont connectors?
There are rectangular housings similar to that of a row (or 2) of female dupont connectors. Those would be my recommendation, as they're less likely to expose metal to potential short-circuit hazards and for the wires to move in undesirable ways.
what would be a term to google?
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Or you can look for 0.1" pitch rectangular housings
Does your enclosure have moving parts?
Nope
I'm connecting to a row of 8
There are also connector options, if you google 0.1" or 2.54mm board-to-wire
You could pick something with a latch lock, if that's a bit more comfortable for you
which of these would you click on?
Housings for the cable end, or Board In, Direct Wire to Board for the through-hole connector for the PCB
OK, the only 0.1" pitch thing they had in Board in, Direct Wire to Board was a DIP ribbon cable assembly
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