#help-with-arduino

1 messages · Page 28 of 1

nimble terrace
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got some once when i was like 12 y old 😃

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dont worry, i ll go to my local shop, before plugin it

river venture
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somehow i have managed to never be in the path of any power but iv touched a device that had 120v incorrectly going through the enclosure and it wasnt fun

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but 220 going the wrong way can really mess you up

nimble terrace
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I m in europe also, its all 220v here

river venture
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yeah i figured you must be

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not a lot of reasons to try using relays on 220 here in the states

nimble terrace
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ok thx again, need to sleep, and go to the shop tomorow morning 😃

river venture
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youll need an enclosure even safer to do 220

nimble terrace
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ok ty yeah i ll ask about the enclosure, if they dont point that out

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i want fix that for years

river venture
nimble terrace
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I prefer safe environement

river venture
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its better than a breaker, these really save lives

nimble terrace
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acces denied

river venture
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oh

nimble terrace
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noticed last week too, idk why they dont want my ip

river venture
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maybe the amazon page will show

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im sure there is something similar for your mains power type

quartz smelt
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220 is not a normal 3 prong plug

river venture
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yeah i know he is also in the eu

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so he needs one built for his specific region

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the important thing is that whatever he gets is gfci

nimble terrace
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ok i note that

quartz smelt
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yea, I was just thinking he was using normal 110 but pushing 220. Imagine the surprise when you plug in the blender

river venture
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lol

quartz smelt
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I wish some Hazzah32 users were on

sly raptor
#

Crickit does not respond: I unwrapped a new Circuit Playground and a new Crickit and bolted them together. I used MakeCode last night to write a program to control a servo and a DC motor. It worked on the simulator, except there was was no simulated servo or DC motor. At the end of the cycle, it stopped until I clicked on the capacitive Touch pin. Great. But when I put together the real system, Neither motor activates. To start another round, it requires a capacitive Touch. The lights trace the behavior; the left lights change color with the step, and the right lights are a “progress bar” for each step. They all worked on the simulator. The lights all work perfectly. But motors and touch on the CP/Ckt do nothing. The servo does not move. The DC motor does not turn on. When it completes a cycle, touching a capacitive sensor does nothing. I have a demo in less than 48 hours and it would have been nice to have this.

I used MakeCode to write a servo test. Forever {90 deg, R1, wait, 0 deg, Y2, wait, 90 deg, G3, wait, 180 deg, B4, wait}. The end of the sequence state is shown in the third photo. But there is no servo action. Tried two different servos, no luck. I will be trying other tests. Here’s a photo including the servo connection. Nothing in my code produces the light pattern shown here, BBRBRBBBB. It happens after some number of iterations, I just counted 18 successful cycles. It died halfway through the 19th iteration. I have also posted this question in the Adafruit CP/Ckt forum. I didn’t show all of the loop because it is just 8 notes playing a little jingle.

radiant valley
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this is the code i made with your help

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still a kitty coder but im working my way up😁

torn frigate
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@nimble terrace can you share how you made the graphs?

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any ideas why this did not repeat every 2 hours?

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left it for 6 hours now and only played it once

honest nimbus
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Probably because an unsigned long int count of milliseconds overflows at 30 minutes

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Welcome to a computer science problem!

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The laziest way to fix this is to delay for 30 minutes six times. The actual overflow is at around 32 minutes IIRC

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@torn frigate

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Wait no, I'm thinking of a smaller data type...

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This shouldn't overflow until ~50 days have passed so this should be fine

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Sanity check: Does it work with a smaller amount of time, like 1 minute?

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Here's another computer sciencey problem: You're having the function call itself

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Even if it worked, it would eventually crash the Arduino because it would fill up the address return stack

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Take out the recursion call to doDiscord(); and just call the function within loop()

torn frigate
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yea it worked with 5000 delay

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so if i put it in void loop(){

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it would be able to handle it?

honest nimbus
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I'm not sure if it would fix your immediate problem, but it would fix an exciting future problem

torn frigate
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😨

honest nimbus
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I have an idea, but I'm spitballing because I don't know what board you're using and I don't know how the Discord library works...

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Within loop(), instead of doing a delay, keep track of the time with millis(). It may be that delaying the code for that long causes the Discord servers to think your hardware has gone offline.

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This way of doing a time delay doesn't block other code from running while it's waiting

torn frigate
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it's just a webhook not discord lib

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a POST request

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I'll try thanks

tiny marsh
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anyone know how i can flash my m0 trinket back to arduino? is there is uf2 to drop in the bootloader?

inland crag
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I think you can just upload an arduino sketch to it

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the arduino compatibility is baked into the bootloader I guess you could say

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via the BOSSA compatibility it provides

oak current
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hey, is anyone good with midi for the arduino?

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im trying to convert this toy piano I have into a midi device for use in a DAW

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i have the key matrix mapped out, but i cant seem to map any midi commands to it

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?

merry stratus
nimble terrace
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My ESP logs data on card every minutes , and also it is a webserver. This websever/csv is called and displayed by another html/javascript page

iron stirrup
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on a single arduino uno, can I feasibly receive 5 sensor inputs with 3 outputs that turn on/off components?

wide lark
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@iron stirrup it really just depends on what your requirements are: how many pins does each sensor need for I/O, how much CPU power do you need to keep up with the processing of their data the way you want, etc.

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the Uno has 14 GPIOs, which is quite a bit, so in that regard you should be ok

iron stirrup
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5 sensors that detect if liquid level in a container is above or below a certain point (each sensor monitoring a different container) that sends a single output, then 2 outputs that each actuate a solenoid valve and 1 output that actuates a servo motor

wide lark
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@iron stirrup gotcha, so I'm guessing your 5 liquid level sensors output an analog signal? you're in luck: the Uno has six analog inputs pins! then you have all 14 of those GPIOs for your outputs. so yeah, I think you'll be good

iron stirrup
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its pretty binary. either the liquid is at the level, or it isnt

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my other concern is with outputs. I'll need 3 outputs that act as the switch on relays that then bring in higher-voltage power to activate solenoids, servos, etc

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afaik, arduino only has one 5V output pin

north stream
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Looks like that DFRobot sensor provides a digital output, so can be used with any pin.

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You could use a bipolar transistor or MOSFET to drive the solenoids directly. You'd probably need a transistor to turn on a relay if you want to switch things that way. The Arduino can drive a servo directly.

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The 5V output is just a power supply output, it can be connected to several things if they don't draw too much power, otherwise you'll want to supply power to your other things in another fashion.

iron stirrup
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the issue is that my two solenoid valves need 12V of power and my servo will probably need like 6V, whereas the Arduino power is just 5V.

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related question - the GND/VCC/JD-VCC area is what powers the coils that flip the switches inside the relay, while VCC/GND around the two inputs gives the main power that will go out of the high power side, right?

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so say I had a 2-relay board that was meant to output 12V to my two solenoids from the high power side (no/com/nc). I would give 12V to the top VCC/GND, and give some other kind of power to the lower GND/VCC/JDVCC in to power the coils to flip the switches?

north stream
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Normally you'd keep the 12V stuff on the output side (to the left) not the logic side (to the right, where the VCC pins are).

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For example, you could have 12 V supply to the NO contact, COM to the solenoid, then the other end of the solenoid to the 12V return.

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The servo may be able to run from the same 5V supply as the Arduino, or it could have its own 5-6V supply. However, the logic signal that controls it could come from an Arduino PWM pin.

iron stirrup
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wait. so power supply would come through a wire into NO, go into the solenoid by coming out of COM, then the circuit would complete by going into NC?

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okay let me consider my actual use case thing for a sec

north stream
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It's a two position switch: when the coil is not activated, NC is connected to COM and NO is not. When the coil is activated, NC is not connected and NO is connected to COM.

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NC means "normally closed" and NO means "normally open". COM means "common".

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For your use case, you can probably ignore the NC contact and just use the COM and NO contacts as a switch to complete the circuit through your solenoid.

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So power source -> NO -> COM -> solenoid -> power return to complete the circuit.

tardy vapor
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can anyone tell me what are those things?

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the blue box is a DHT11 temperature/humidity sensor

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but what are the other two?

iron stirrup
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@north stream is there a way I can somehow power both of my solenoids from the same power source?

north stream
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Sure, as long as the power supply has sufficient capacity to run both of them.

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The black component could be a capacitor (if so, "103" would give it a value of 1nF), but black components are often something else, like thermistors, tranzorbs, etc.

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The blue cylindrical one could be a capacitor or inductor or perhaps something more exotic like a precision resistor, reed switch, etc. Does it have any markings?

iron stirrup
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So if I have 2 12V solenoid valves and a 6V servo, would I use a 30V power supply and wire each relay channel in parallel?

steep igloo
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Hey, I'm wondering if it's possible to reprogram the Atmega8A in a USBASP to run custom code?

shell lynx
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Anyone have a good templated linked list header for Arduino? I've generally just hand rolled them when I've needed them but did a little digging today. The first two I found either had bugs or issues releasing memory. I came across some alternative free/delete implementations but haven't tried them yet. I know it's good to try to stay off the heap in uC's but have been playing with a D51 and would like to be able to keep some structures on the heap.

oak current
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hey, is anyone good with midi for the arduino?
im trying to convert this toy piano I have into a midi device for use in a DAW
i have the key matrix mapped out, but i cant seem to map any midi commands to it

bleak glacier
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@oak current If you know that a key is pressed, you should be able to code the midi control codes to send. What are you having difficulty with?

quartz smelt
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Whats this trying to tell me

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Sketch uses 650862 bytes (49%) of program storage space. Maximum is 1310720 bytes.
Global variables use 37040 bytes (11%) of dynamic memory, leaving 290640 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 327680 bytes.
esptool.py v2.6-beta1
Serial port COM4
Connecting....

A fatal error occurred: Timed out waiting for packet header
A fatal error occurred: Timed out waiting for packet header

quartz smelt
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Is there a Hazzah and a Hazzah32?

quartz smelt
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Well it says Hazzah esp8266

merry stratus
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I have a 16ch i2c PWM breakout board based on the PCA9865, I've hooked an LED to one of the channels just as a test, and it seems to dim fine, but strangely any time there is any other traffic on the i2c bus the led intensity spikes for a moment. I've tried with 2 different sensors and an oled display, any interaction with any of the other devices seems to cause it. why would this happen?

rain horizon
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i have a very simple programming question

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can someone explain the statements within the first if statement

inland crag
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it's a toggler

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If you press the button and it used to be off, turn it on. If you press the button and it used to be on, turn it off

rain horizon
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Then it changes everything to false. It's infinite. Always gonna be false. If it's not false, It changes to true, Which changes to false

inland crag
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it's not infinite because it only happens when the button is pressed

rain horizon
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does it work like that

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@inland crag

inland crag
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yes

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it might need some button debouncing idk

rain horizon
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does this phrasing make sense?

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or am i thinking about it wrong

inland crag
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yeah I think it makes sense

merry stratus
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if (buttonState == HIGH) {
on = !on;
}

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a lot easier on the eyes

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accomplishes the same thing

inland crag
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true

rain horizon
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What’s !

inland crag
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not

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inverse

rain horizon
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I’m guessing not

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Yeah

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And then else { on = on; }

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?

inland crag
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nope

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if it's false, not false is true

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maybe you shouldn't call it on

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it's confusing

rain horizon
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So !on = on

merry stratus
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what I pasted is the entirety

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you don't need an else

rain horizon
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But it’s an if

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🤔

merry stratus
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so?

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if doesn't require else

rain horizon
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I’m new at this......

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Don’t all ifs need a default

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Sort of thing

merry stratus
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no

rain horizon
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Ok then

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Thanks

merry stratus
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👍

iron stirrup
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so I wanna make a turntable that will have 4 cups of water 90 degrees away from each other. Need to be able to rotate each cup to another 90 degree position. Should I do this with a servo? stepper? what?

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should go slowly and complete a 90 degree turn every like, 5 seconds

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so 20 second full rotation

eager jewel
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I would use a stepper since you know exactly how much you want to turn it.

rain horizon
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^

iron stirrup
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the stepper turning the table from the center, or more like turning a gear that turns the table? the total weight of water and container should be in the ballpark of 8 pounds or so

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max, that is

rain horizon
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i say turning a table is more stable

eager jewel
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I would probably have it turn the table so the weight of the table isn't too much for the motor.

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I mean the geared method

iron stirrup
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so now I gotta design a table with central rotation driven by a gear lol.

eager jewel
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Maybe you could make use of a lazy susan?

iron stirrup
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isnt there some more complicated wiring for stepper motors as opposed to a servo?

eager jewel
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Yeah, but neither is super complicated. I think arduino has a good sketch that turns a stepper motor.

rain horizon
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may i ask, why are you turning water cups?

iron stirrup
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the turntable will be holding cups that hold solutions of proteins that once removed from the turntable will be put through a spectrophotometer for analysis

eager jewel
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You may need to get a stepper motor driver such as an A4988

iron stirrup
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cups are filled with proteins

eager jewel
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Nice

iron stirrup
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Solenoid 1 controls flow of protein solution into a cylinder, solenoid 2 controls flow out of cylinder into destination containers

eager jewel
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Nice diagram. What did you mean by not sure what to do here?

iron stirrup
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since I'll already be using my 5V power from my nano to operate the solenoids, for doing the stepper motor wiring/using the A4988, will I just use a different 5V power source and use the arduino for outputs only?

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to answer your question, idk if those two should be jumped together, if they should have different power connected, what they're actually for, etc

eager jewel
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Yeah, it should be enough depending on how you are powering the nano.

iron stirrup
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what should be enough exactly? I'll be powering it via USB from a raspberry pi

eager jewel
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I used a similar 8-relay module controlled by a Wemos Mini D1. I removed the jumper and just connected the 5V input off the USB to the JD-VCC input. It works great.

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I had to replace the relay board after the first one had a faulty relay, but it's been working great ever since.

iron stirrup
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I just tend to want to isolate things because of my experiences in HVAC wiring and $20k rooftop units going boom

eager jewel
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Then probably better to err on the side of caution and remove the jumper.

iron stirrup
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so once that jumper is removed, how do I get a new 5V power source hooked in?

eager jewel
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You would connect one to either of the VCC pins, which powers the logic of the circuit and another to the JD-VCC which is only for powering the relay coils. The ground is shared between them.

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All the jumper does is it ties the JD-VCC and VCC portions together.

iron stirrup
eager jewel
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I just took a closer look at your diagram and realized the 5V in a square represents a separate power supply. Yes, that looks correct.

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I'm going to get going to bed now. Have a good night.

iron stirrup
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sleep tight my dude

deep kiln
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Hello, I am new to this stuff. Can you guys help me by taking a look at my circuit if everything is wired correctly? It would be very much apprechiated.

📎 circuit.jpg
deep kiln
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S2 is wrong and supposed to go to another IO pin.

north stream
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Looks reasonable, if confusing. Switches go from IO pins to ground, analog outputs to to analog inputs.

deep kiln
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okay thanks alot

merry stratus
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Does anyone have an i2c PCA9865 breakout and willing to try an experiment? 😛 I've been fighting with this for almost 24 hours now and making no progress. I can only assume the boards are somehow faulty, would love to just see the same circuit working correctly so I know i'm not crazy 😛

north stream
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I don't have one, but there are a few things you might try (I don't know what you've tried already).

merry stratus
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@north stream I've tried different pullup resistors ont he i2c bus, as well as 3 different "other" i2c devices that all seem to interfere. I've tried running hte code on an Uno and on an ESP8266 w/ 3v3 logic. the results are always identical.

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i've also tried a second PAC9865 breakout (came in a 2pack) it has the exact same behaviour.

north stream
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Have you run an I2C scan?

merry stratus
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also changed its address from 40 to 41

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no, i haven't done that. not sure what that is 😃

north stream
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It's one of the first things I try when I have an I2C device that's not answering.

merry stratus
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ok, i'll give it a run, but my devices all respond fine. this one just seems to receive some kind of interference from any/every other device on the bus

north stream
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Hmm, what is the failure mode?

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Note that it requires TWO power connections, a 3.3V input to Vcc to operate the chip, and a 5V input to V+ to run the servos.

merry stratus
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I was under the impression the V+ was optional and only for servos. I'm driving LEDs, I posted a video about 12h ago in here of the behaviour I'm seeing, basically my LED's flash whenever I talk to anything on the i2c bus

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the video above is me polling a sensor every second while the PCA dims the LED in / out slowly.

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you can see it flash every second

north stream
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Ah, that's a different kettle of fish. You're able to talk to it, it just glitches its outputs when there's I2C activity?

merry stratus
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exactly.

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any activity at all.

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(tried 2 sensors and an oled)

north stream
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I'm not 100% sure "any activity at all" is accurate. I wonder if the sensor driver is resetting the I2C bus.

merry stratus
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if it is, then so is the oled driver, and the other sensor driver too.

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i've run them all independently

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they all interfere

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fwiw the i2c scanner doens't show anything unexpected. 3 devices at the addresses I expect them to be

north stream
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Yeah, I suggested the I2C scanner because I didn't know what the failure mode was and guessed (wrongly) that you weren't able to talk to it at all.

merry stratus
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my only explanation, though it seems very unlikely to me, is that this is just a problem with this particular board I purchased, it's not the official adafruit one, though it uses the same library and seems to be of reasonable build quality. it also came as a 2-pack and they both display the exact same behaviour. I ordered the official but it's gonna take forever to arrive and Im expected to be sorely disappointed when it behaves the same way

north stream
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How are the LEDs wired? From output to +V, output to VCC, or output to ground?

merry stratus
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nothing is using V+ (not connected) the LEDS are just running from PWM->GND on each channel of the breakout. (with a 220Ohm resistor in series)

north stream
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Hmmm. My only guess is that these are cheap Chinese boards with fake PCA9685 chips that are really microcontrollers programmed to emulate the real thing, except they get an interrupt on I2C communication and pause the PWM while servicing it.

merry stratus
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that would be good news, and pretty awesome 😃

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it just seems so unlikely to me.. lol

north stream
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Since you can get an OTP microcontroller for 3 cents apiece, it's popular to use them to save money. Better yet, those particular microcontrollers are marked on the underside, so you can laser engrave a fake part number on top.

merry stratus
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well if that's the case there is going to be a scathing amazon review of this board 😛

north stream
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What I'd do is write a sketch that sets the LED to a medium brightness, then generates various waveforms on the SCL and SDA lines and watch the effect on the LED. I'm guessing that SDA is ignored, but every time SCL is driven low, the LED will flicker. That would imply that it is a microcontroller that is set up with an interrupt on the IO pin connected to SCL so it can catch those transitions to emulate an I2C slave.

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There are a lot of reasons I do not buy from amazon. That is one of them.

merry stratus
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I knew it was a risk but the canadian adafruit distributor I usually order from didn't have them in stock and it was going to take a while, I hoped these would function well enough to get the project started int he mean time

north stream
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You could try eyeballing the board carefully too: the AdaFruit board takes care to wire various optional pins (like "output enable" and "external clock") to known values. If this board doesn't, it could also cause glitching.

merry stratus
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I can't see much on the board, and not sure I'd know what I was looking for exactly 😃 the software experiment sounds more up my alley

north stream
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It's getting harder to find useful stuff locally. When I want AdaFruit parts in a hurry, I usually buy them from Digikey and pay for fast shipping.

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If I want AdaFruit parts today, I drive the hour and a half out to MicroCenter.

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But if you're up in the Territories, useful outlets are going to be thin on the ground.

merry stratus
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must be nice! Digikey is fast, but i try to avoid them unless i'm in the mood for a surprise brokerage fee. There's definitely nothing within a 4 hour drive either 😃

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elmwood electronics is fantastic for a candian distributor

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but if they don't have it in stock i have to wait for them to order it and the whole ordeal takes about 2 weeks

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can you offer any advice on 'generates various waveforms on the SCL and SDA lines'? I assume i'll have to use the Wire library directly to do something at that level?

north stream
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The Wire library doesn't give you low-level control, so you'll need to toggle the pins directly. Since I2C is an open-collector bus, you'll have to use the I/O pins in a slightly unusual manner as well, as you can safely pull them down, but you aren't allowed to pull them up.

#

So a simple test to pulse the SCK lead might look like ```c
pinMode(SCK_PIN, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(SCK_PIN, LOW);
delay(100);
pinMode(SCK_PIN, INPUT);

merry stratus
#

ok I'll give it a shot

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I should still use the adafruit pWM Driver lib intially set the LED though right? then switch the pin modes after the LED is on?

# 
#include <Arduino.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h>
 
Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver();

void setup()
{
  pwm.begin();
  pwm.setPin(0, 1024);
}
 
 
void loop()
{
  pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SCL, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(PIN_WIRE_SCL, LOW);
  delay(100);
  pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SCL, INPUT);
}
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I dont see any flickering with this code

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actually, I see one brief flicker about 1 second after it starts up.

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strange

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i think its just the arduino resetting, nevermind.

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seems stable

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tried the same thing to SDA and it behaves fine.

north stream
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Ah, that's useful information (if not quite what I was expecting).

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Try adding a delay(100) as the last line in loop() so it spends some time in each state.

merry stratus
#

still good

north stream
# 
void
loop()
{
  int pulsetime;

  digitalWrite(PIN_WIRE_SCL, LOW);
  digitalWrite(PIN_WIRE_SDA, LOW);

  for (pulsetime = 100; pulsetime < 20000; pulsetime += 100) {
    // turn on SCL
    pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SCL, OUTPUT);
    delay(pulsetime);
    // turn on SDA
    pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SDA, OUTPUT);
    delay(pulsetime);
    // turn off SCL
    pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SCL, INPUT);
    delay(pulsetime);
    // turn off SDA
    pinMode(PIN_WIRE_SDA, INPUT);
    delay(pulsetime);
  }
}
#

That should iterate through a variety of pulsewidths and combinations.

merry stratus
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nada. perfectly stable LED.

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this is getting wierd

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maybe it's only happening when another device replies on the i2c bus?

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not sure how much of a difference that could make

north stream
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That would be odd, as devices replying is the same thing (they drive SDA low).

daring marsh
#

andre what are the other devices?

merry stratus
#

TSL2591, Si7021, and a SSD1306 OLED

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each of them independently connected causes the exact same issue

daring marsh
#

post a clear photo of your wiring

merry stratus
#

sure, give me a moment to clean it up a little 😃 been experimenting for hours

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I will build the absolute bare minimum reproducible

daring marsh
#

its somethingwith your wiring

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most likely

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i2c devices dont' conflict each other if they're on other addresses

merry stratus
#

yeah that's why I bought it, was hoping for something that would be reliable and stable 😃

daring marsh
#

dont mess with the SDA/SCL pins tho -

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did you buy anytihing from adafruit?

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if the boards are from amazon, ask the seller for their support forums - they should have engineers they've hired to help you!

#

gotta 🌮 l8r!

merry stratus
#

not easy to photograph lol

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FWIW: The 2 sensors are from adafruit, the PWM Driver is a clone, but the seller was not helpful (said its an i2c conflict)

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in the photo i'm using the 2nd power rail from the top as the i2c bus.

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the 2 resistors ont he right are 4.7ks pulling SDA and SCL up to 5v

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220Ohm on the LED

north stream
#

Those wires are a little long for I2C.

merry stratus
#

maybe a little but even with all 4 devices connected with wires that long, there ar eno communication issues anywhere

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i2c should support at least a meter no?

#

uh-oh... i can't get it to flash anymore 😐

quartz smelt
#

Success after a week

#

66666666666663
WiFi connected
IP address:
10.0.0.135
connecting to wifitest.adafruit.com
Requesting URL: /testwifi/index.html
HTTP/1.1 200 OK
Server: nginx/1.10.3 (Ubuntu)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2019 16:39:59 GMT
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Length: 73
Last-Modified: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 17:42:29 GMT
Connection: close
ETag: "58a5e485-49"
Accept-Ranges: bytes

nimble terrace
#

random port order on ESP is an ultra bad design, so much time lost finding wich pin is what !

#

also as a noob i m lost with all those port flavors, where I find what are they used for ?

deep kiln
#

between the ground and 3,3v pins

tough snow
#

@deep kiln That's a prototyping area. The pins aren't connected to anything. You can add things like, say, a DHT11 temperature sensor, a button, or something like that and solder it to the board, and then use hookup wire to connect it to the correct pins

deep kiln
#

ah ok thanks 👍

tough snow
#

@nimble terrace I doubt it's truly bad design. The ESP (both 8266 and 32) modules have them laid out in specific ways. Both are small boards, so there's only so much room to route them from the chip. This is carried over into the boards they are attached to, and similar design constraints follow. On a feather-sized board, it can be similarly impractical to route connections in a "sensible" way, especially if you want to keep the PCB 2 layers.

#

Something like that Arduino Uno (Or Adafruit's Metro series) has a much larger footprint, and you can route things in interesting ways to get them to the desired area

nimble terrace
#

But why not label the pin in a physical order ?

tough snow
#

They typically are labeled following how it's determined with the chip itself. Which... is a complex thing that I can only really speculate at

nimble terrace
#

Ok i see, yeah would be a beginner io label 😃

#

my pinout document legend was missing, I added it, it is a bit clearer now

tough snow
#

With all this said, though, I do find it annoying when two 'consecutive' pins aren't near each other

#

So while I understand why, it doesn't make it less annoying to work with

nimble terrace
#

this does not ease the wiring process

#

I will have a look at the espressif datasheet

tough snow
#

I'd recommend that. What's the project?

nimble terrace
#

conquier the world !

#

but starting with climat monitoring and control

narrow thorn
#

if you have a cpx and want to use adruino ide.. should your include be #include <Adafruit_CircuitPlayground.h> or is there one for the express?

nimble terrace
#

sensors , sdcard, webserver, are all ok, I'm adding relais. Most thing works when I found the right pin and there is no false contact, and that not that easy ....

tough snow
#

@narrow thorn Given the hardware difference between the CircuitPlayground classic and CPX, I'm leaning towards there being separate ones. But I haven't used either on Arduino, so haven't looked into it.

narrow thorn
#

It is really difficult finding examples for ardino for cpx

tough snow
#

It's definitely aimed for CircuitPython

narrow thorn
#

I found a cool one for some led and buttons action.. a wearable led thingy.. but it is for cpc and has an extra led strip.. I have one function working on the cpx.. but everything else does nothing, which makes me believe that there must be a difference

tough snow
#

Looks like I was wrong. It's just Adafruit_CircuitPlayground.h

narrow thorn
#

hmmm

weary ember
#

So um.. is there a channel for very very basic noob questions?

wet crystal
weary ember
#

Sweet

#

lol

wet crystal
#

Sry for that kind of bad joke

weary ember
#

I'm just trying to learn how to use shift registers, and I don't think arduino.cc's example codes are working right for me

wet crystal
#

You can do it by yourself

wide lark
#

@weary ember do you know python?

wet crystal
#

Or use 74hc libary

weary ember
#

I don't know anything about python

#

wait so i need to install a library?

wet crystal
#

That´s the most easy way i think

weary ember
#

Hm.. well both of the sketches in question are still being weird

#

meh, i'll figure it out

#

Thanks anyway! 😃

weary ember
#

Okay I have a more specific question..

#

if I set variable

#

byte a = 0;

#

then

#

bitWrite(a, 2, 1);

#

Now byte a should = 4 right?

#

am i understanding this wrong?

wide lark
#

@weary ember you have that right

#

it's the same as a |= 0b00000100

#

(bitwise OR)

weary ember
#

okay thank you rpj, in that case I cannot understand why this code isn't working

wide lark
#

do you mind sharing your code here?

#

or at least the part you believe to be broken

weary ember
#

Its not even my code, its from arduino.cc, 1 moment

#

maybe its an issue with my serial input actually

wide lark
#

yeah, you might want to debug how you're using the code, because at a quick glance it looks correct

weary ember
#

okay, I will do that later, thank you for the assist

wide lark
#

sure thing! best of luck, let us know how it goes

weary ember
#

my serial monitor was set to "newline" which apparently breaks this sketch lol. oh well at least I learned some new stuff.

nimble terrace
#

On Arduino Uno Relay Ligth and click and works OK, on ESP32, same code, same Relay just Light but no click, and does not work, What am I doing wrong ?

#

I use 5v as VCC on the ESP, should i go 3.3v ?

rain horizon
#

for some reason, when i click the button, it doesnt work half of the time. I click it, and nothing happens, and then i click it again and it works fine. sometimes i can even click it 4 times in a row and the light wont turn off and then the next 4 times it will work perfectly fine.

#

is this an issue with my program or my wiring

#

theres my program for reference

nimble terrace
#

looks ok, but overcoded

#

You can just write digitalWrite(ledPin,!ButtonState);

#

check your wires and the button connctivity with a multimeter

#

if it is a 4 pins button it may not work the way you think, I got tricked too 😃

nimble terrace
#

Got it to work, esp controlling the relay, Uno powering it. the ESP 5v is not enough

nimble terrace
north stream
#

Yeah, as written, that code will turn the LED on and off rapidly and stop at whatever state it happens to be in when the button is released.

rain horizon
#

digitalWrite(ledPin,!ButtonState); makes the button behave like a button

#

when i let go, it just turns off

#

i need it to stay on

#

digitalWrite(ledPin,!on); makes it into a switch, but its having the same problem again

#

this seems to work great

#

works every time

inland crag
#

that second if statement doesn't make any sense

#

that's an assignment not a boolean

# 
if (buttonState == HIGH) {
    on = !on;
    delay(500);
} 
digitalWrite(ledPin, on);
#

do that

rain horizon
#

ok

#

did the same thing

inland crag
#

yeah but it actually makes sense

#

no offense

rain horizon
#

none taken

#

yeah i dunno why i did a nested if

hasty pecan
#

Hello

#

I'm new to this

#

and i have an adafruit circuit playground

#

its a class assignment

#

i want to make this

#

ill screenshot

#

I wanna make a touch sensor connected

#

to adafruit on the glove

#

so whenever someone shakes my hand it'll light up

#

how would i make this work?

honest nimbus
#

Many of the Circuit Playground's pads can already be set up as touch sensors, so you'd just need to run a wire to where you wanted to do the sensing

hasty pecan
#

Hmm

#

how would that work

#

Like i'm using conductive thread

#

would that also work

#

also i get to try out with alligator clips

honest nimbus
#

Tie the thread to one of the input lines on the CPX, and then your sensor would be maybe a small square of aluminum foil

#

you can either tape the thread down to the foil (try fraying it a bit on the end) or use the alligator clip

hasty pecan
#

Hmmmm

#

I'll show u all of my supplies

#

because i dont know if im allowed to use that

#

Btw i really appreciate your help

#

thanks man

honest nimbus
#

Sure :)

hasty pecan
#

Thanks 😄

honest nimbus
#

The Circuit Playground also has an accelerometer. You could try detecting a "handshake" motion as well

#

If you used both that and a touch sensor, you could tell the difference between holding hands, shaking hands, and a high-five

hasty pecan
#

Ohh

#

Thankss

#

how does an accelerometer works

#

I heard i can use that

honest nimbus
#

This will walk you through turning pretty much anything into a touch sensor

hasty pecan
#

Alright

#

Thanks

#

I'll ping you if i need any further help

#

Also, how would my code work?

honest nimbus
#

What language are you using, Python?

hasty pecan
#

adagruit

#

i mean

#

arduino

#

idk what langusge

honest nimbus
#

Ah, okay. The Arduino IDE uses C++, for the record

#

One moment...

hasty pecan
#

Ohh

#

alright man

honest nimbus
hasty pecan
#

Alright man

#

thanks

honest nimbus
#

Start with just the Circuitplayground library for now

hasty pecan
#

I'll either pm you or ping you if i need help

#

alright

#

you saw my materials right

honest nimbus
#

Ping please, so other people can help :)

hasty pecan
#

alright

honest nimbus
#

No, I couldn't view the sheet. It's private

hasty pecan
#

I'll screenshot it

honest nimbus
#

k

hasty pecan
#

@honest nimbus

#

i forgot to choose adafruit

honest nimbus
#

The black woven conductive fabric will do the job of the tinfoil

#

Here's a tip: It will detect your hand just as well as someone else's, so you might want to attach it to the outside of a normal glove, rather than make a glove out of the conductive fabric

hasty pecan
#

Yes i know

#

i bought a normal glove

honest nimbus
#

👍

hasty pecan
#

so would i take a small square of conductive thread

#

i mean conductive fabric

#

then sew a conductive thread to it

#

that i connect to the adafruit circuit playground

honest nimbus
#

Yep

hasty pecan
#

then i use some kind of code

#

whats the acceseralator whatever it is for?

honest nimbus
#

What an accelerometer does is detect bumps. Think of it like a Wiimote controller from the original Wii

hasty pecan
#

ohhh

honest nimbus
#

It can detect when you swing it around and in what direction.

hasty pecan
#

so where would i sow that?

#

sew*

#

and how would i connect it

honest nimbus
#

It's built into the Circuit Playground

#

You'd just need to add the software for it

hasty pecan
#

so i just need a code

honest nimbus
#

yep

hasty pecan
#

to activate it

#

im using a lithium battery

honest nimbus
#

That should be enough power

#

I don't think they'd give you an option that didn't work

hasty pecan
#

this one

#

oh it deemed the picture explicit

#

oof

honest nimbus
#

Discord can be weird like that

hasty pecan
#

yeah

#

lol

#

anyways so

#

ill find sample codes

#

and stuff

#

they're hard to find tho and ill try and figure out how arduino works

honest nimbus
#

Good luck!

hasty pecan
#

Thanks man

#

@honest nimbus#48

#

How would i make this code work

#

would i copy paste random codes

#

that i find

honest nimbus
#

That's not how you learn to program. That's not how you learn to write, is it? Copying and pasting random sentences?

#

What sort of lessons did your teacher give you on how to program in Arduino?

#

But it's done in MakeCode. It's up to you to translate that to C++ for Arduino

hasty pecan
#

@honest nimbus Ohhh

#

She didnt really tell us how to use it

honest nimbus
#

Well, ask her! If you've never programmed before, tell her, see what sort of help she can give you!

hasty pecan
#

Alright man

#

She said she would help me once we had a code to work with

#

she's a bad teacher anyways

honest nimbus
#

hm

hardy parrot
#

Hi, do you guys know how to use the Arduino Official TFT Screen and the Adafruit Music Maker Shield at the same time on an Arduino. (I'm not talking about the stacking headers that I need to solder on top of the shield in order to get access to other pins.) I tried redefining the pins but it didn't work. Thanks and have wonderful day! Music maker: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1788 Arduino Official display: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-lcd-screen

Adafruit "Music Maker" MP3 Shield for Arduino w/3W Stereo Amp

Bend all audio files to your will with the Adafruit Music Maker shield for Arduino! This powerful shield features the VS1053, an encoding/decoding (codec) chip that can decode a wide variety ...

Arduino LCD Screen

The Arduino TFT screen is a backlit LCD screen with headers. You can draw text, images, and shapes to the screen with the TFT library. There is an onb

honest nimbus
#

I'm still poking at it, but I'd bet the problem is that they're all trying to use the same device select pins for SPI

#

SPI can go to multiple devices, but each device needs one pin to tell it that it's being talked to.

#

@hardy parrot Hm, the hardware shouldn't be a problem - you can run the screen CS pin to Digital 5 and the Backlight pin to Digital 2 and ignore the TFT's SD card, and everything will "fit"

#

But software-wise, this might not work out, see this note from the Music Maker tutorial:

# 
The MM chip (VS1053) wants to be fed data constantly so that it keeps the music playing. You can take small pauses to do stuff in between playing, and for real-time sensors like IR receivers, you'll have to not-use interrupt based playing and instead pause to read. See this thread for ideas```
#

Running a screen is not "small pauses" processing for an Arduino

#

The tutorial doesn't have a link

#

despite saying it does

hardy parrot
#

I see...

#

Thank you for your time!

honest nimbus
#

Yep! Even if the software doesn't work out, wire it up and try to get it working "enough"

#

It might work, who knows! Especially if the screen has a buffer (I don't know) and doesn't require constant updates

#

If it does have a buffer, then it might skip the music while redrawing but that may still be good enough

hardy parrot
#

I'll try it today for sure

#

Thank you very much for your time and have a wonderful day! 😊

honest nimbus
#

You, too :)

torn frigate
# 
Humidity: 20.50 %
Temperature: 20.50 °C
Humidity: 20.20 %
Temperature: 20.20 °C```
#

I changed the DHT11 library and now the output is this ^

#

it just reports same values for both temp and humidity

north stream
#

I'm not that familiar with the library, but it looks like the sensor variable holds the humidity data and the event variable holds the temperature data, but you're trying to read both the temperature and humidity from the event variable?

merry stratus
#

@north stream I made a little more progress with my LED Driver interference issue this morning. thought this might be an interesting detail. if I set the LEDs to certain level and leave them, there is no "interference". it's only when I dim/brighten them in the loop that they start acting on all i2c traffic

north stream
#

Interesting. I'm sure that's a clue, but I don't know what it means. It's almost as if an I2C bus cycle was left unfinished, so traffic coming after it was accepted as more commands?

merry stratus
#

sounds reasonable. and at least that points to a single potential driver issue rather than every othe i2c device being broken somehow 😃

merry stratus
#

Oooh, even better, ONLY when using pwm.setPWM, pwm.setPin behaves correctly.

nimble terrace
#

Hey,
I struggle external powering a 4x relais on side of an esp32 :
The setup from doc fails, the relay does click click and stops, it is like :
esp = 3.3V on VCC + In1 / External = 5V on JDVCC + GND / JDVCC jumper OFF
But this setup actually works :
esp = 3.3V on VCC + In1 / External = GND / JDVCC jumper ON
Is that normal ?

#

without external power esp is too low to activate the relais, only the led light

#

also i derivated the external power form the same USB cable that power the ESP

weary ember
#

"shiftout_using_an_array.ino" contains unrecognized characters. If this code was created with an older version of Arduino, you may need to use Tools -> Fix Encoding & Reload to update the sketch to use UTF-8 encoding. If not, you may need to delete the bad characters to get rid of this warning.

#

Fix Encoding etc... does nothing, anyone know what the unrecognized char is?

merry stratus
weary ember
#

yeh.. by bad

#

thank you

merry stratus
#

np

nimble terrace
#

It works as it should if i separate esp power and relais external power, but not when external power is derivated on same usb cable that power esp, and idk why ;/

merry stratus
#

USB isn't a great power supply

#

probably just not dfelivering enough current

nimble terrace
#

I use a 2A use power

merry stratus
#

a phone charger?

nimble terrace
#

yes

merry stratus
#

afaik they can only deliver 500ma unless the device ont he other end actively requests more

#

the esp can't do that

nimble terrace
#

It works in one config, when the external is used for grou nd only

merry stratus
#

shrug i'm no expert that's for sure 😃 I only know that phone chargers are rarely sufficient to power a raspberry pi reliably, so it seems likely you're running into the same issue

#

I have a very nice 2.1A phone charger with a fat cable that consistently underpowers a raspberry pi.

nimble terrace
#

It is not like missing power, on the first setup the relays click clik like 3 times and stops, like if there was something bad

#

It looks my derivation sucks and put the relay in short circuit when both on same cable, if i separate powers, or if I setup like second picture it is OK.

merry stratus
#

wait, if the relay is powered with 5v, it probably can't properly interpret the 3v3 logic from the esp, no?

nimble terrace
#

the esp is on 5v too

#

but i think i rode this could work 3.3v + eternal 5v didnot try it out

merry stratus
#

esp32 is 3v3

#

it lowers usb voltage to 3v3 and uses that

#

if you use external 5v you probably need a level shifter between

nimble terrace
#

yes but it also has a 5v VCC output

#

like for using a DHT you need 5v

merry stratus
#

yes, but it only does 3v logic, so the relay only receives a 3v signal

#

probably not enough to flip it

nimble terrace
#

the 5v of the esp are not enough, led light only

merry stratus
#

did you try powering the relay with 3v3?

nimble terrace
#

5v esp + 5v external, separated works as indicated in documentation (maybe 3.3 too). and i m trying to put them on the same usb cable

#

5v esp + external ground from same cable works, buut with jumper on

#

nop didnot try 3.3

merry stratus
#

worth a shot, otherwise I have no idea 😃

nimble terrace
#

ill try the current working config with ground only

#

thx btw !

#

it seems 2 works pretty good 2 with 2 relais, light are strong

wide lark
#

Does anyone know of any resources detailing exactly what C++ language features and subset are supported by the different Arduino platforms? I'm writing a library and want to use the STL but it looks like it's not supported everywhere (such as the more-limited older devices like the Uno), among other things. Would love to have a matrix of feature-sets so I can make an informed decision as to which platform(s) to target and which to exclude. Thanks!

quartz smelt
#

@daring marsh quick question? on the Hazzah sp8266 what pin would be the equivalent of pin 2 on an uno? i am ready using I2C 4,5 for temp,hum

daring marsh
#

🤷 whatever other pin you want to use

#

there's no direct equivalence

quartz smelt
#

@daring marsh Thank you

torn frigate
#

what reset button does on boards?

north stream
#

Resets?

nimble terrace
#

is it a reboot ?

#

reboot = power reset ?

inland crag
#

It sets the reset line of the mcu, and it does whatever it's supposed to when that line is set

nimble terrace
#

ok thx

#

Hey, what connectors should i use to easily plug and unplug a 4+ wires cable on a PCB card ?

#

I m using dupont atm, but now I m looking for something stronger, maybe clicky

wide lark
nimble terrace
#

ok thx, so JST is the standard

wide lark
#

I'm not sure if it's a "standard" per se but I have seen it on a lot of devices which is how I was first introduced to it

#

I do know that Adafruit sells their batteries and PowerBoosts equipped with JST connectors, can't remember which size they use though

nimble terrace
#

haha yes so much references

wide lark
#

LOL so true!

nimble terrace
#

I may try Air quality monitoring one day, this will soon be a matter of survival

wide lark
#

yeah you don't have to tell me: I built my sensor because I live only miles from the Wine Country fires of '17, so it's already kinda become a matter of survival for us. my sensor systems use python exclusively (although are RPi-based, so not Circuit Python though definitely use lots of Adafruit code); here's more if you're interested: https://www.hackster.io/rpj/atmospheric-particulate-matter-environmental-sensing-fb31a1

Hackster.io
Atmospheric Particulate Matter & Environmental Sensing

An air quality (particulate matter) and environmental (T/H/P) sensor system built with a Raspberry Pi Zero W, Python & Redis. By Ryan Joseph.

nimble terrace
#

nice thx

wide lark
#

You’re welcome, and best of luck finding what you’re looking for!

nimble terrace
#

thx for sharing your recipe, the result look great

wide lark
#

I appreciate that, thank you! I feel I could do a lot more to make it look better (and run better), but no project is ever actually “done” right? 😜

nimble terrace
#

where can I find good arduino code exemple ?
I need a datalogger, that handle CSV, has a timestamp, and run a command in non blocking loop. There are a lot of exemple on the web, but most are just begginers POC and not good code.

#

Is there some known well coded project or resource that can inspire me ?

proven shoal
#

I'm using an Arduino DUE, and I'm trying to read 2 encoders which output both Quadrature and PWM. I'd like to read the PWM at first to get the absolute position, then switch to Quadrature for everything else. What I'm struggling with though is where to plug in the two PWM, as I'm already using TC0 and TC2 for Quadrature decoding.

north stream
#

I'm not sure what TC0 and TC2 are here. Timers?

proven shoal
#

uh, yeah.

#

I was looking into TC1, but I couldn't find the inputs in the pinout

#

Is there a better way to refer to them? lol

north stream
#

I don't think you need a timer to decode quatrature, just keep track of the edge order. Perhaps look at the PJRC quadrature library, it's pretty good.

proven shoal
#

I'll take a look at it, thanks

iron stirrup
#

quick question, what should I use for 5V external power supplies to give power to logic in my boards?

#

preferably such that they plug into the wall and I can mess with the wires

#

12V as well

#

Hopefully this helps clarify what im saying

calm parcel
#

I have a drawer of power bricks of various voltages that I rummage through to find the right voltage and current capacity.

north stream
#

Phone chargers are easy to come by and great for powering various circuits.

#

I'm also fond of looking at thrift stores, they'll often have a bin of assorted plug-in power supplies of various voltage and power capability for low prices. I also grab any from anything I'm discarding.

wet crystal
#

At the workplace from my girlffriend they are throwing away psu

#

I just grab them from bin

#

Have really good Laptop Charger

#

Now to my question.

#

XD

#

I want to save data recorded with a wemos.

Since im broke this month, but had a USB Stick handy, I just plugged it into my router and set it up as a Inhome Storage. You can´t reach it from the internet atm.

I just asked myself, if it should be easy to write data to that stick with a wemos in the same network, without giving internetacces to this NAS.

north stream
#

If you're connecting the Wemos to your AP's internal network (like your other in-home machines), it should have the same access.

wet crystal
#

Do you have a link for a tutorial? Didn´t found some.

north stream
#

A tutorial to hook to your own AP?

wet crystal
#

As you think you know a video, that helps a beginner with my problem.

#

I just need to know, how to send data to that stick, since it is not opperating as a full nas

north stream
#

Depends on what your AP supports. Could be FTP, HTTP, AFS, NFS, or any one of quite a few other things. If you're really unlucky CIFS or SMB.

wet crystal
#

I really dont know

north stream
#

A little looking around indicates that the Speedport Smart probably supports FTP access to a USB drive.

wet crystal
#

I remember. I saw that in a video, but when i looked for this option i didn´t found it

north stream
#

In any case, you'll probably want to configure everything with a computer before trying to attach to it with a microcontroller.

wet crystal
#

Yeah, that would be a pain in the a**

north stream
iron stirrup
#

okay, another quick question

#

why use arduino/arduino clones over Raspberry Pi GPIO?

#

it seems I can do with a raspberry pi's GPIO everything I can do with an arduino uno/micro/nano

#

ease of code? what?

wet crystal
#

price is a point

#

some of my mc´s i will never see again

iron stirrup
#

makes sense. I'm more asking about functionality of one vs the other

#

school is paying for it so

#

dont have to worry all that much about budget

wet crystal
#

The benefits on both, depends on what you are about to do.

You dont buy a Ferari to go slowly you know

north stream
#

For tight timing, I'll opt for the Arduino class machines. For heavyweight processing, the Pi gets the nod.

iron stirrup
#

Define tight timing.

#

Also real quick, is this the proper way to wire a relay board with external logic power?

north stream
#

Tight timing, such as sending signals with a known, reliable timing.

#

I think you'll need to hook up Vcc (operates the control circuitry) as well as JD-Vcc (operates the relay coils). You'll need connect ground to the ground on the circuit driving the inputs.

#

You have the option of using a single 12V supply to run both loads, if your supply has enough capacity.

iron stirrup
#

capacity?

#

are you saying I'd jump JD-VCC with the VCC right by it?

north stream
#

If you're driving it from a 5V board, yeah, do that. If you're driving it from a 3.3V board, hook 3.3V to Vcc and 5V to JD-Vcc.

#

Capacity is the amount of power a supply can deliver. If your solenoids take (say) 100mA apiece, and the supply is capable of 500mA, it can run both of them. On the other hand, if the solenoids take 400mA apiece, then a 500mA supply could only run one of them.

wet crystal
#

Well @north stream it seems like this model doens´t support FTP

north stream
#

Any idea what it does support?

wet crystal
#

I read st about smb

#

but im not sure

#

Well, I tried to setup a dns server

#

But you can´t reach it from outside

#

And if I try to log in, from my pc it says wrong user data

north stream
#

I don't get an address for that host (which is probably for the best).

wet crystal
#

My friend got a adress at least

#

If I ping it i get feedback

north stream
#

SMB is a can of worms, as it's one of those "standards" that doesn't have any compliance specification as almost all of the features are "optional", so even a fully-conforming SMB client may not work with any given SMB host.

wet crystal
#

Any idea, why I can´t acces my server?

#

A friend of mine helped me set this up

north stream
#

It probably has a default login, you'll have to look that up in the manual. Unless the default was changed, if you don't remember what it was changed to, you're likely stuck doing a factory reset.

iron stirrup
#

could I use the 5V from an arduino board to power multiple relays/drivers?

north stream
#

It'll tend to put noise on the line, and relays can be power hungry, so it would probably be fine for a small number of them.

iron stirrup
#

I'm planning on two 5V relays and a A4988 stepper motor driver

north stream
#

The relays should be fine. May want a separate supply for the stepper if it's bigger than the little air conditioner variety.

iron stirrup
#

Very rough schematic of what I'm saying

#

With the + and - lines as if a breadboard

#

Would it work? Operating those 3 things?

trim bane
#

really beginner question, Vin is to power a board and VCC is power out?

honest nimbus
#

It depends on the board. Generally, VIN is the raw power in and VCC is the output of the voltage regulator

#

but you can also feed the correct power directly into VCC to power the Arduino, if you have a power supply somewhere else in your project

trim bane
#

ok thanks, sorry just trying to read some info and noone really explains that very well!

honest nimbus
#

No worries! Questions are what we're here for

inland crag
honest nimbus
#

@iron stirrup It's tought to say without knowing what's on the relay boards. Different boards have different supporting circuitry (e.g. a flyback diode, an indicator LED, a switching transistor or MOSFET with a base resistor)

#

Otherwise that looks good and fine

#

Assuming the relay board has a flyback diode and is one of those active-low types with a little MOSFET coil driver

iron stirrup
#

It's a sainsmart 5V relay board

honest nimbus
#

Yep, that has all the good protection stuff and you can hook it directly to the Arduino

iron stirrup
#

Hell yeah

#

I'm doing it with a usb-powered micro or nano most likely

#

Though I may try to implement my system using a pi only at some point

hasty pecan
#

so would i take a small square of conductive thread
i mean conductive fabric
then sew a conductive thread to it
that i connect to the adafruit circuit playground

#

And i have this accelerator thingy

#

im tryna find codes on how to make it work

#

I'm tryna make it so whenever i high five someone the conductive thread will detect it as a touch sensor

#

and the accelerator sends the signal to the adafruit circuit playground so the lights start lighting up like a rainbow or whatever

#

how would i make this code?? i tried using these code sample websites

#

oh yeah, and this code needs to be build for arduin

#

arduino

#

@honest nimbus oh help

#

MY SAVIOR HAS ARRIVED

#

nooo what happened to factory factory

#

oof

#

he's back

#

epic

honest nimbus
hasty pecan
#

Alright

#

dude

#

i have to finish this

honest nimbus
hasty pecan
#

by tommorow

#

is that possible

honest nimbus
#

Okay...

hasty pecan
#

is there any already made code

honest nimbus
#

Okay, so here's what sucks

hasty pecan
#

Yeah

#

i dont think i have the time to learn it

honest nimbus
#

For me or any number of other folks here, your project is like.... five minutes

hasty pecan
#

yeah

#

i need some help on some made code

#

that i can build off of

honest nimbus
#

If you'd been taught how to do any of this, you'd have a few hours' worth of trying and failing ending in a learning experience and success

hasty pecan
#

yeah

#

but we havent

#

she said she would help me out once our code was finishede

honest nimbus
#

Yeah most "learn to code" programs basically through you in the deep end, and then correct you bit by bit with whatever outrageously incorrect thing you came up with

hasty pecan
#

yeah lol

honest nimbus
#

While I'm looking things up, write some comments. Good commenting is very good programming habit and it's not wasted effort. Here's what you write:

#

You write what you want your program to accomplish

hasty pecan
#

What do you mean though?

#

by commenting

honest nimbus
# 
// This is a single line comment.
/* This is a multi-line comment.
Comments are for people to read. 
The computer ignores them. */
hasty pecan
#

ohhh

#

//light led or somehting

#

/* detect code

#

send it to accelerator

honest nimbus
#

Right

hasty pecan
#

idk

#

Alright

#

I just need tiny snippets of information tho

honest nimbus
#

So something like
// High-five detector - touch sensor on glove to detect a high five

hasty pecan
#

for accelerator and lighting

#

Will that actually work??

#

in the code

honest nimbus
#

//Touch sensor is attached to pin 2

#

No. But they describe what you are trying to do

#

Which helps you when you come back to it, and helps other people understand what you are trying to do

#

Really good, professional code spends more than half the time on comments, because professional code needs to be worked on by lots of different people.

#

// Use the built-in LEDs to light up

#

That kind of statement

hasty pecan
#

oHHHHH

#

Ohhh

#

I got it man

#

thanks

honest nimbus
#

Okay, excellent. You have the Circuit Playground library installed in the Arduino software, I'm betting

#

If so, then you can go to File --> Examples --> Adafruit Circuit Playground

#

And there are a whole bunch of pre-made programs that will do things and work already

hasty pecan
#

Yeahhh

#

Wait

#

file examples

#

In arduino?

honest nimbus
#

Yes

hasty pecan
#

hol up ill get back to you

honest nimbus
#

It'd be near the bottom, "Examples from custom libraries"

hasty pecan
#

Alright thanks

honest nimbus
#

check out the AccelTap example

#

You know how I was saying an accelerometer can be used to detect a "bump"?

#

That demo does exactly that

#

Right now, all it does is print to the serial console

hasty pecan
#

oHH

#

alRIGHT

#

so that

#

will that

#

like

honest nimbus
#

However, if you go to Hello_CircuitPlayground --> Hello_Neopixels, there is code in there to light up the pixels

hasty pecan
#

detect the conductive thread

#

What even is a serial console

honest nimbus
#

No. That is still something you would have to try yourself

#

Serial console (tools -> Serial Monitor) is a simple text data exchange between the CP and your computer

hasty pecan
#

Ohh alright

#

ill try and catch up and brb

honest nimbus
#

Here, just gonna give you this one. From the CP examples, the demo program gives this handy function:

# 
CircuitPlayground.readCap(n);
#

That will read pin n as a capacitive touch sensor

hasty pecan
#

Hmm

#

whats the pin n?

#

again

#

i was kinda behind

honest nimbus
#

I'm using "n" as a placeholder

#

if you did 2, that would be pad 2, for example

hasty pecan
#

oh ok

#

n is 1 pad right?

honest nimbus
#

Just one pad at a time

hasty pecan
#

pad is the conductive thingy right

#

alr

honest nimbus
#

yes

#

so, your comments would look like

void loop () {
    // Check pad for touch
    if (CircuitPlayground.readCap(<some pin>) == true) {
        // Light the LEDs for two seconds
    }
}```
hasty pecan
#

Oh ok

honest nimbus
#

I feel like if I give you any more code or even pseudocode, I would be doing the assignment for you :(

hasty pecan
#

@honest nimbus its between you and me

#

(:

#

lawl

#

@honest nimbus oof im confused again

honest nimbus
#

That's normal

hasty pecan
#

i went to check the library but it has nothing on

#

on adafriut

#

adafruit

honest nimbus
#

the CircuitPlayground library isn't installed?

hasty pecan
#

lemme show you

#

noo

#

i tried to find it but i went to the arduino library

#

this is my code rn oof

honest nimbus
#

Go to Sketch --> Include Library

hasty pecan
#

where in sketch?

#

where is sketch

honest nimbus
#

File, Edit, Sketch, Tools, Help

#

along the top toolbar

hasty pecan
#

where do i find file again

#

in arduino editor

honest nimbus
#

Unless you're using the web edito

hasty pecan
#

im in the website

#

version

honest nimbus
#

okay

#

I have never used that. This is fine.

hasty pecan
#

maybe thats why i was confused

honest nimbus
#

Under that, Examples

hasty pecan
#

alr

#

im there

honest nimbus
#

Then click "From Libraries"

#

and jeezums that's a lot of stuff

hasty pecan
#

kk

#

done

#

lol

honest nimbus
#

Never mind. Go to Libraries

hasty pecan
#

i cant find the classic playground there

#

oh ok go to libraries

#

done

honest nimbus
#

I don't think it's there. I am.... befuddled

hasty pecan
#

oooof

#

that sucks

#

what should i do

honest nimbus
#

I am trying to figure this out but the website is doing crazy things to me

#

okay that's good

hasty pecan
#

so which one is relevant

#

to my project

#

ooof

#

niice

#

i get an extra day

honest nimbus
#

well, that's good

#

because I don't see any way yet to get the CircuitPlayground libraries on the web version

#

Apparently you can upload the CircuitPlayground library as a "custom library"

#

Download that git as a .zip, then drop that .zip on the web thing as a library

#

It is not drag and drop. Click the upload logo and you get a file picker

#

Click include, and it will stick the library in for you

#

and Examples --> From LIbraries will now have the Adafruit_CircuitPlayground set

#

Also the "Monitor" button there is the serial terminal/monitor

#

And now I'm just.... Done. Can't do anything else right now, gonna head out.

#

I am a bit stunned you've apparently gotten so little guidance on taking the first steps here.

hasty pecan
#

Ohh

#

Alright

#

Thanks dude

#

Sorry i answered late

nimble terrace
#

Hey, using webserver.h, how can i pass dynamic variable like logFile here :
server.on("/data", [](char logFile) { handleData(logFile); }); ?

rain horizon
#

Every time I try uploading a program to my Arduino it says “problem uploading to board”

#

I checked and everything is portted and boarded

#

I dunno why

rain horizon
#

Nvm computer restart fixed it

wet crystal
#

@north stream Hey small update for you. It seems like the Speedport "smart" doesn't support reaching USB devices from the internet.

I just get myself a raspberry or something else.

Any suggestions wich or what I should choose?

heavy slate
#

hi! i have a project about capacitive sensor, i use 5 capacitive sensor as a button,but i don't know how to debounce multiple button ==', How can i debounce them together???(sorry for my bad English)

calm vapor
#

Each should have a capacitor going from the pin to ground in parallel

#

Question for the ATmega2560. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I can't get my Fast PWM mode code to work at all.

#define F_CPU 16000000UL //defined CPU for delay calculation
#include <avr/io.h> //calls for the microprocessor specific .h files
#include <util/delay.h> //calls for the delay specific .h files

void init_ports(void);
uint16_t duty_cycle = 128;

int main(void)
{

init_ports();

TCCR0A = (1 << COM0A1) | (1 << WGM01) | ( 1<< WGM00);    // Fast PWM mode and non-inverting mode
TCCR0B = (1 << CS01);    // prescaler = 8,
OCR3A = duty_cycle;        //set to output at PORTE3, timer counts up to duty_cycle value

while(1){}

}
void init_ports(void)
{

    DDRE |= (1<<PE3);     //set up portE.3 to produce PWM signal
    PORTE = 0x00;          //initialized to 0V
}
heavy slate
#

here is my code for debounce 3 capacitive sensor

📎 a.ino
calm vapor
#

Actually for software, you can set a small delay between reading the push button to account for the debouncing noise.

#

But yeah, I'm super frustrated at this code.

heavy slate
#

i relly not like delay

#

and try to not use that in my code

calm vapor
#

that's the only way to do it in software to my knowledge

nimble terrace
#

I finally manage to monitor and control climat. I'd like to thank you for the help provided !

📎 example.png
north stream
#

@wet crystal I figured it would support reaching USB devices from the internal network (not the internet), and that would work for you. However, I could have misunderstood your use case. It's true that a Pi is another option, and possibly a better one, since you have full control over how it would work. I'd suggest either the inexpensive Pi Zero W (to save money) or the powerful Pi 3B+ (to offer faster development and more connectivity).

wet crystal
#

Budget project is okay, just need the storage for different data logging with wemos.

Much thanks again @north stream

Can Pi Zero W run an add blocker at the same time with the nas?

#

Nevermind, i can get a used Pi 3b+ for less than a Zero W

north stream
#

Sweet!

agile finch
#

Great, all of the sudden i2c stopped working on my esp32. it looks like SDA is stuck high.

#

Nevermind, user error.

radiant gull
#

I'm very new to Arduino, so if anyone can help me with the following questions I would really really appreciate it! I'm a grad student trying to figure out some things for a project.

  1. How would one go about making an Arduino bluetooth capable so that it can connect wirelessly to a speaker?
  2. Does anyone know where to look for code that would write for the Arduino "when circuit is closed, play this audio file via blutooth on the speaker and turn on LED at the same time"

Thanks!

honest nimbus
#

Does it have to be an Arduino? Bluetooth is a real pain and I'd prefer a Raspberry Pi Zero W for that project, personally

radiant gull
#

It doesn't need to be, no - a friend of mine just had an Arduino on hand that I'm playing with. As long as it can trigger the audio/light I mentioned, that's what I'm looking for

#

(He is also new to Arduino and can't help me out with my questions)

honest nimbus
#

I'll do some research in a bit to see if BT Audio from Arduino somehow isn't a nightmare and get back to you

#

It's a nightmare. Get a Raspberry Pi. Figuring out the Linux command line and writing a Python script from scratch would be no harder (probably easier) and probably much cheaper than the ways to pull it off on Arduino

radiant gull
#

Okay cool, I appreciate your help. The Pi you recommended is also half the price of the Arduino Uno, and I need to get 4 of them so... price matters haha.

honest nimbus
#

You'll need a microSD card for each one, but it will still work out

radiant gull
#

Okay, like this one? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15107 I'm only putting one audio track on each computer so don't need much storage. Also, will I need an MP3 shield?

microSD Card - 1GB (Class 4)

For the times when all you need is a basic SD card this is the card for you. 1GB capacity is plenty to store MP3s or log environmental data, and still dwar

honest nimbus
#

Ech, no. A Raspberry Pi is a full computer, and in some ways it's overkill. You need at least a 4 GB card, and honestly the way pricing works these days, just go right to 16 GB. SDXC Class 10/UHS1 preferably

#

The hardware is way overkill, but the upside is.... It's a real computer. You can program directly on it. It will play MP3s by itself

robust meteor
#

Hey one question regarding arduino keypad

#

I want to build an arcade fightstick with arduino and I need arduino leonardo because it has the atmega32u4 chip

#

But it has less pins than what I need (I need around 25)

#

I thought on using keypad matrix and doing a 11 x 2 matrix. (that would be 22 pins) and then for the couple other buttons that i need I've got enough pins

#

So the questions:
Is there any arduino with atmega32u4 chip with around 30 pins? something like arduino mega
Will it work the button matrix with a 11x2?
Thanks ❤

modest birch
#

I already did good progress on my project, but i still having an issues with fingerprint and database

#

The fingerprint module doesn't work with servo at all idk why both working alone but not together

#

Second thing i have made a database using phpmyadmin to manage it connected using esp8266-E12
But how to i make the if condition checks on database for the rfid number if it's there or not?

north stream
#

@robust meteor An 11x2 matrix only requires 11+2 or 13 pins total. The 32U4 chip itself has only 26 available I/O pins, so there won't be any boards with more, unless they're using outboard circuitry to provide more I/O (which you can also do). There are also chips available to drive matrix keyboards (interestingly, the HT16K33 LED driver chip can also control up to a 3x13 key matrix).

robust meteor
#

💩

north stream
#

@modest birch To check if a field is present in the database, you should be able to just do a database query.

robust meteor
#

Okay it the 32u4 has only 26 io pins the matrix is the only way to go

north stream
#

As I see it, the choices boil down to: have a second CPU, use a different CPU, use an external I/O expander, use an external keyboard controller, or use a matrix keyboard.

robust meteor
#

I'll go for the matrix keyboard

#

Thanks ❤

#

btw, why 11+2 pins, for the 5v and the gnd?

north stream
#

For an 11x2 matrix, you'd need 11 pins to drive one axis (say, the rows), and 2 pins to drive the other axis (say, the columns). That would give you 22 keys with 13 pins.

#

Generally, the closer to square the matrix is, the better the ratio of keys to pins, so for example, you could instead have a 5x5 matrix, which would yield 25 keys with just 10 pins.

robust meteor
#

The thing is that I don't have 25 buttons

north stream
#

Right, but you don't have to populate the whole matrix: you could have the same 22 buttons using only 10 pins instead of 13.

robust meteor
#

So... I don't know what to do in that case, that's why I thought on the 11 x2

#

Hmm

#

May I ask how I should connect the buttons?

#

Im gonna draw a fritzing with 25 buttons

north stream
#

Each button would be between one "row" wire and one "column" wire.

robust meteor
#

Okey I thing I know

#

w8 a minute

north stream
robust meteor
north stream
#

Yeah, that's the right idea.

robust meteor
#

Nice

#

Thanks for the help!!

narrow thorn
#

I am trying to play with a fastled sketch on the CPX.. the compile is failing with random() 'no matching function. though I have fastled.h and Adafruit_Playgroundexpress.h both included

#

#include <FastLED.h>
#include <Adafruit_CircuitPlayground.h>

wet crystal
robust meteor
#

Thanks for the video! though this doesn't fit my needs, as I need to recognize multiple presses at the same time

#

Keypad library can ^^

wet crystal
#

You can also anti ghost with diodes

#

but i don´t know how

bright depot
#

hello there! I have a project in mind. And its my 1st time working with Arduino. Anyone has some spare time to give me some tips and tricks. Or mistake i will propably do? I am not that expirienced....

wet crystal
#

If it doesn´t care you that im playing video games in the background

#

I think beginner to beginner expirence could be good

bright depot
#

@wet crystal sure 😄

austere island
#

would anyone know how to read square payment app data from the Arduino

honest nimbus
#

.... what are you trying to do? Because I can't think of anything useful and non-nefarious.

north stream
#

Those things plug into an audio port, so I'm guessing they encode the data as audio tones, modem style? Sort of like the Project Mc2 Pixel Purse?

honest nimbus
#

But like... Why credit card payment, OFF of a device that already has an internet connection and security certificate to handle payment data

gleaming edge
#

does anyone know if there's a way to store data collected on an Arduino, without using an external shield/component?

#

if there is a way without using a shield / radio link

north stream
#

The Arduino has some onboard EEPROM storage you could use.

gleaming edge
#

Yeah just saw that.. it's 1 kb but probably good enough for my sampling rate

#

thanks!

wet crystal
#

Anyone can tell me about a chinese vendor which prints on plastic cards?

The vendor should be able to print security features as well

pine bramble
#

i've got a project i'm working on with arduino and pi where i'd like to have a flask web server sending commands to the arduino via i2c. i have a basic example going where the pi can send commands by sending an integer to the adruino that the arduino then parses via switch case. i'm looking for some more resources on i2c as the ones i've read so far are either too basic in their examples or way too advanced

north stream
#

It sounds like you have I2C working, so I'm not sure what you're looking for here. I'm guessing some way to format the data so you can do more than send an integer?

pine bramble
#

that and the appropriate way to do this. right now it's one way master (pi) -> slave (arduino). the arduino also has physical controls for the outputs i'm trying to control via flask. so i would think having two way communinication to see the status of things would be needed. the main control is a momentary switch so i'm having trouble getting through how to deal with that via the flask

#

when reading i see a lot about bit registers and such and that is foreign to me

north stream
#

One possibility is to use Firmata, which lets you send and receive commands and data.

#

I've actually used Python to talk to an Arduino using Firmata. It's a little wonky to set up, but it works.

proper pawn
#

hi : )

#

How do I blink the led Built into the Arduino board R3?

#

Just gotta check that my Uno works 😃

stable forge
#

@proper pawn go to File->Examples->Basics->Blink, and compile and upload that.

proper pawn
#

yeh but that's requires a extra led

#

just need the to use the base leds already on the ardunio @stable forge

stable forge
#

that uses the LED connected to D13

#

LED_BUILTIN

proper pawn
#

Oh but which is the builtin

#

referred too

#

Which "Example" teaches u about turning on/off the 5 volt output?

#

i googled it but I can't find much about it

stable forge
#

it's the one marked "L" on the board, near pin 13

proper pawn
#

Thanks @stable forge

pine bramble
#

is this a good starter kit?

north kelp
#

What do you want to build, @pine bramble ?

pine bramble
#

Not sure honestly, trying to decide whether to get an arduino or a raspberry pi. I'm not good at programming yet and haven't worked with embedded stuff at at all. @north kelp

#

Was thinking maybe a trail camera (motion sensor activated camera), something to control sprinklers, things like that.