#general-chat
1 messages · Page 227 of 1
Oh no doubt and I plan to upgrade but my point is even good work can be done with crappy tools
it was only $90AUD, and it's both a hot air gun and a soldering iron, and it heats up so much quicker
I may need to.... Reshuffle my finances again and lean more heavily on currently held assets to get my game console going so I can invest in that
What's the model?
And is it available in the US?
it's a 8786D clone
I have nothing against clones... If the price is right
(and for small scale individual use, I'm pretty against it for mass scale purchasing but I digress)
is your 1st language French ?
No my first language is 'Murrican

I'm a native speaker of American English I just play with my words before eating them
yeah the sentencing structure seemed sorta French that's why I asked
I'm not sure yet about soldering iron and lab power supply...
I'm also extremely bipolar with schizoaffective aspects so it could just be that I frame stuff weird as a result of that
insurance company says they need to be UL/CE certified and made in the US to cover damage if they cause it...
Had a tektronix soldering station in mind that cost 100$ or a hakko one that costs 350$ (they have UL/CE and not made up one/fake ones from corruption money from china...)
There's being a dork, and then there's taking pride that Digikey Chat Support agents always pass you off to an applications support tech.
There's also a pen one I could use meanwhile
No just real ones that fund corruption money in the west.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Not saying don't trust the real ones or that you should trust the fake ones, but the argument about corruption money is simply moot
The argument should be one of whether the cost you save by not getting a real certification is worth the lack of real certification
Nah I mean like in China I saw many documentaries from DW / France2 etc where everyone seem to print fradulent labels like made in italy or CE/UL and the law doesn't care
It is generally not
And when I see a 5$ charger from china and look at what is inside and it doesn't have even basic safety feature that tell me human life isn't value in such products
so I can't trust anything that is inherently dangerous from there like a soldering iron or power supply
Right, and as a result their products can be cheaper at the point of sale, but they're unsafe. Thing is, the regulatory bodies that make money off of the certification process don't make enough of an effort to inform the public of why real certification is important
and even there are tests that says the design pass basic safety guidelines like UL and CE
and I've had a corsair HX 750 with electronic components from Japan for almost 15 years
So people say "oh why am I paying more for this one than this one with the same labels?" as an unaware consumer and end up making a market for it
vs the no-name cheap one that advertising 750W but the components inside wouldn't go past 350W and broke in 1 or 2 years
so far that power supply cost me 9$ per year... vs 40$ a year for the "cheap ones"
so I had my lesson
Let's say I'm aware it's a terrible idea to buy power supplies from Chinese companies
I bought a supposedly 1KW PSU for my PC for cheap and it was uh
Not a good decision
I mean you do what you want, not trying to influence anybody, just saying for me and for what the insurance company says and I have a small apartment and lots of tenants in the building so it doesn't work
I'd rather do what the insurance company says in the long run
and if a power supply last 1 millenia that's what I want 🤣
First off the fan bearing died in a month, kept resetting the system any time I pushed the GPU, ended up damaging the motherboard chipset as a result of undervolt during reset rather than a full disconnect and reconnect of the supply, etc.
yeah gpu dying in a year was a common symptom of these PSU
But it was either that or a computer that didn't meet most of my needs
or not powering the computer on at all when you added a a cd drive... even if it was far off the supposedly 750W
And I wasn't aware of the potential for problems at the time
And I kinda see a power supply like a bike lock
You don't buy a 300$ bike lock to protect a 500$ bike neither do you use a 50$ bike lock to protect a 8000$ bike...
I had $600 to work with to make a computer that could do GPU rendering in blender <2.8 (before my GPU wasn't supported anymore and I was sad)
Already had the GPU so the rest was a scratch build
it's a clone in the same way my lab bench power supply is a clone
and I mean this isn't even about us/china/whatever it's more having real/verifiable certs that I can show my insurance company if something happens
Like "I did my job now pay up my claim"
Gotcha, I realize we were kind of talking from slightly different contexts, I was just saying that the reason a market exists at all for false certs is that the general consumer public aren't made aware enough of the importance
Yeah I know that too, I've had the power supply argument before with peoples IRL and they didn't know until they invested in a good one
And didn't understand the "naive person" who spent 150$ for one (me)
And I mean even for me, the hardest one to buy with cert is a lab bench power supply if I ever need one
certified ones costs a fortune
After my incident with the PC supply I decided if I'm going to have a cheaply produced supply I'm going to learn to build it cheaply myself but verify the quality myself
Not for PC but for bench supply
basic ones with mid-range volts/ampere from b&k starts at 400 US$...
When I bought for PC power supply there was a guy testing them with high-end gear
and the main thing in them besides the components being rated at what it claims is ripple/noise
something that need a lot of bandwidth to check and is into the realm of DSP, not really something an hobbyist can afford to do
Not something a hobbyist who's buying hobby gear at hobby prices with hobby timescales and time budget and at hobby knowledge levels can afford to do. 😉
depends on the project
An e-bike starts at 3000$ where I am
If that is ever something I want to do and the total project cost is 800$ but I need a 800$ power supply or oscilloscope to do it correctly
I still save money
Yes but if you are dedicated you can build each component from raw material using 3D printed jigs for coil winding and such
And it's about a third of the price or less
But yeah if you're a standard hobbyist the limiting factor is actually time
I'm not a standard hobbyist
I have all the time in the world
So much so that I can make barely any money stretch across many projects
yeah that's why when I show up at my fablab and they have 12 machines for construction work
and learning each take 2-3 months I get discouraged
(out of necessity in my case until I can manage to get self started)
I've been working with 3D printers for some 5 or 6 years now
I can level any printer I've come across just using my eyes
No leveling card
And it gives me better results than using a card
But I added automatic leveling to my printers just because like... Tedium
(yes, fully automated)
I don't even know what a leveling card is
I just hope that before I did my time metal 3d printers are widely available for 500$ and you can order a furniture to print it rather than wait for it
etc
atm I'm very interested in experimenting in joysticks whatever the cost
plus maybe one day I can reuse it to drive an ESC on an r/c or an e-bike 😄
I really wish I had a tractor like dashboard with a new holland style sidewinder HOTAS for gaming...
good news is they apparently can be used on a microcontroller
Hmm, 3D printed coil forms, that's a good idea
Well yeah, 3D printing has two main advantages over other manufacturing methods: if you keep within some fairly forgiving constraints they can manufacture shapes that are simply impossible using other methods, and you can iterate on things quickly
Turns out 3D printing is best put to use in a lot of cases as shape references rather than the actual object itself
I agree. I'm tempted to try lost PLA casting.
I'm going to be helping my brother cast my old engine block into stuff with that method
(aluminum block)
Excellent
The battery tray in one of my appliances broke, so I just 3D printed another one.
Nice! Those are good for abrasive filament
Not that I can make use of them right now since the tool steel ones work for the glow filament I have
Heh, I haven't tried my glow filament yet, but I do have a steel nozzle I plan to use with it.
I mean I'm going to install them but I need to also install my 500C thermocouples and get some carbon fiber infused polycarbonate filament to fully put it through its paces
And glass infused nylon
Those are some serious composites
Also got full self leveling on my printers
Have to tune stuff once I get the nozzles swapped but both proved that they work well enough to print
And the prints are gorgeous when I have it properly tuned in
With no user leveling option even available
Next step is to get a high temp heat break that a bowden tube won't degrade in, make a custom shelf with just enough operational space for all the printers I have planned, and run Teflon tubes to each printer spot from a common filament dry box
I still have to figure out whether I want my small printer to do 3 materials or my big one
I have a diamond head nozzle that can mix 3 plastics through the same output if configured correctly
And if I add another separate nozzle I can do a CMYK printer
I wish I'd saved for a 5 input nozzle though
I ended up going with a titanium heatbreak, it seems to be working well
So I could do CMYKW
That's what I was thinking of going with
Actually... Shoot... What's a 5 input diamond head cost rn
I have no idea
Oof
It's hard to find now because there's actual diamond tipped nozzles that dominated the SEO
Heh, that's what I thought you meant
Did some research after finding them
Turns out 5 colors doesn't work very well
At least with that design
I need to design and have my own machined
To address the issues I've been reading about
Mostly it's heat management issues
And color purges
And mixing
Actually
If I use virtual foundries' metal infused filament
To print a nozzle
.....
I could totally have a printer print it's own new nozzle
Because the mixing chamber needs to be designed after a mixing tip on an industrial adhesive applicator
Which is hard to do with traditional metal machining
Otherwise you'll have the striped toothpaste effect I've been reading about
I may spring for some brass infused PLA to print my own printer nozzles (which is then sintered into a slightly smaller solid metal part)
Yo dawg I heard you like printer nozzles so I'm printing a printer nozzle with a printer nozzle
BOOOYAH!!!
CPU TEMPS HAVE REACHED AN ALL-TIME LOW, WITHOUT a significant impact to performance!
Better yet, all while running Discord and YouTube and bloody system monitor.
42 DEGREES, AND 30-37 WHILE IDLING!!
YEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAWWW!!!
imagine what it could be on Void or Arch!!
Or BSD
meh, i've decided that it might not be for me after I did some digging.
cool concept and cool all around, no doubting that
but just not for me.
Fair
I may be able to make a desktop SLS printer using a repurposed DVD writer assembly...
Keep it on its gantry, set that on a second gantry, remake the control circuitry, and add the powder bed system and you've got a tiny high precision selective laser sintering setup
Not sure if it could melt metal but if it can its built in gantry is big enough to 3D print 3D printer mix nozzles for FDM with baffles in the melt pot to properly mix the plastics
Could even do a helical baffle....
Heck with SLS I could do baffles of literally any physically realizable shape
I have a literal pile of DVD drives just hanging out on a shelf
Will get laser goggles before I play with it
I think I actually figured out a super simple solution to the mixing problem
Just a helix that twists a couple of times and reduces in size from the melt pot entry point to the nozzle exit
Basically a >45° from horizontal helical surface or series of baffles that forces the plastic to complete at least two twists before exiting
That way even if it isn't thoroughly mixed you at least get it mixed enough to trick the eye as well as pixels do
(that is, beyond a certain distance depending on the quality of mixing)
Oh yeah the lab also got a smoke detector yesterday
When I was talking about soldering earlier it's mostly wishful thinking because I have too many smoke detectors/sprinklers for the size of my apartment. And I doubt they'd very like soldering
so I'm gonna go with that pen soldering thing atm
Arduino ESP32 Version 2.0.3 is out!
The Arduino ESP32 version 2.0.3 based on the ESP-IDF v4.4 introduces the support for the ESP32-S3, new boards support, new APIs and refactoring improvements, and bug fixes.
https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/releases/tag/2.0.3
Oooh, exciting and hardly off-topic!
Yeah so today I got bored on my English classes and made this
So basically I had an English lesson and got bored, so I opened up ableton and made something. This is my first song btw.
Some lofi
My first track btw
Imagine boredom in English class being the exception and not the rule
I am making an esoteric programming language in English
That would be wonderful
Unfortunately this sentence can be modified by removing "English" and it makes no difference.
Yes
True
This is why I teach myself whatever I want to learn in the comfort of my own home using the internet
Well not my own home but within my own space
And now I have my own lab 🎉
Turns out building a lab is a lot of work even just at 120 square feet
But I have it now
I'm going to revolutionize self education if I can

I dono, I've had some great English teachers when I was younger. We just don't give people who teach enough respect.
One of them made fun of English majors as people who studied the heck out of Shakespeare yet never wrote a single bit that was anywhere near as good.
Also, I have glass-fiber nylon and carbon-fiber nylon and I have yet to crack them open and try them out.
I'm not saying good teachers / professors don't exist I'm saying it isn't the norm and that's unfortunate
And there's a good argument to be made that it's because the incentive structure in the education system itself is to blame
Yeah, some of the best teachers on the college levels were the non-tenure-track lecturers.
My best English professor ever was a total hippie and told me exactly how things go behind the scenes and effectively talked me out of continuing formal education because I do better outside of it
I didn't follow through on the advice I was given until two quarters later when it just became all too clear he was right
I'm pretty sure I only passed that class because I was willing to go to the professor with my concerns and he fudged things because he understood my perspective
I'm great at formulating arguments, I just don't like the idea that something is only valid if it's a properly formatted argument.
And I "suffer" from a combination of ODD and bipolar
In reality everyone else suffers from it but I'm the one who has them
The ODD makes it effectively impossible to conform for conformity's sake. If the reasoning to do something doesn't make sense to me then I'll do something that does. Period.
And because of the bipolar, during the high periods I get interested in things and I'm conforming to satisfy the interest, then the low point hits and I can't even make myself do stuff I want to do but I've got obligations that I made while I was in a high state that require me to conform just to do something I now don't even want to do during a period where I can't make myself do most things even if I want to
It's a struggle and it's impossible for me to fit into either the education or employment structures that currently exist so I'm making something that can accommodate what I deal with, having margin for differences, because I know there are others similar to me though the likelihood of someone needing exactly the same accommodations is nil so it needs to be flexible
If you want the basic concept of what I'm shooting for, it's a charitable design, prototyping, and inventing firm. I don't need more than what will allow me to survive, though I have the skills to make plenty if I could manage to conform to certain systems just long enough... But I'm eligible for disability (and several people over the years including two therapists independent of one another have been telling me that it makes sense to leverage in my position) so I'll use that to survive and then design open source inventions that I think humanity needs
Anyone know much about pipe fittings? This is a 1/2" pipe and flange, can't seem to twist it past where you see. Might be because my carpal tunnel is real bad today and I can't grip anything. I'd unthread it an examine the hole/threads but...carpal tunnel.
Thoughts?
Do you have a pipe wrench?
Maybe
If so you can put screws through two opposing holes into something well anchored, then turn the pipe against that using the wrench for leverage
I wasn't worried about getting it out so much, but thanks. I work with non disabled people. But should it go further is the main question i should have posed.
Oh if you're mounting it on a wall or floor you want the pipe to be flush with the flange base
Otherwise it'll damage the surface as it's attached
Then you'll need a relief hole for whatever length of pipe goes past the flange base
In the surface you're attaching it to
We are miscommunicating, I'm just trying to get the flange down the pipe right now. I know how I'm going to attach it to the surface it's for. I'm wondering if what I'm trying to do is impossible
Oh on pipe fittings they're tapered iirc
Yeah as you put it on further the clearance gets tighter
So that you can seal for fluids if I'm remembering the explanation I got about this years ago
Yeah that sounds familiar
i would screw it off and then tap the threads in the flange
like retap them
if you have a tap that wide
Actually that'll do it
Most of what I learned about pipes in school wasn't practical
You just need the flange to make a tight seal at the wide side of the taper
I was considering that, i don't, but depending on cost it might work
I'm actually not using this for fluids at all
So I don't care about seals
Meant for mechanical strength
if you dont care about it that much you could grind it down and weld i guess
Removability is useful
A thing for work, he says mysteriously. Everyone who'd know about pipe fittings is off doing things
wait did your boss tell you to do that?
It's more my interpretation of a general desire she expressed.
Thats how it works around here
I don't think even WD 40 can handle mechanical interference on this scale
use wd 41 lol
A tap is 10.50 at home despot, I think I'll try that first
Sounds good
Make sure to oil the heck out of it,when taps get stuck it’s a massive pain to resolve
😮💨 just did a technical interview for an embedded engineer role
woooo
I did great on the “what’s the difference between these two things” question and the hypothetical “how would you handle this” scenario questions
C Code part I was a bit rough on though but that’s what you get when you use C++ more than C
I also rarely ever use type defs in my current job so it came up and I was like
Complete brain fart lol
I found out the hard way that the Arduino flavour of C causes some typedef constructions to break.
2 years of an ESP32 weather monitor :)
Has gone down a few times but that's about it.
It used to use IFTTT but that eventually stopped working. Found a fantastic way to use Google App Script to receive the HTTPS requests and that has run nearly nonstop for a year.
https://github.com/FevenKitsune/ESP32-Google-App-Script-Climate-Monitor
I mostly use c# because i took a class in it once in middle school and am too lazy to learn anything else. I should use C tho because I never really take advantage of OOP
Lol
I find that knowing a variety of computer languages helps me enormously in picking up hew ones. I can get a read-only feel for most new languages in seconds to minutes, can be modifying programs in less than a day, and writing new code in about a day (although expert code usually takes a bit longer). Of course, this is accumulated skill from about 60 languages learned over half a century.
true, I can use most any language with enough time to review it's basics or look at what someone else is doing
What does this mean
Unreasonable macros defined in the Arduino library?
I was shocked that the Arduino lib defines min and max as macros that output a ternary expression, so that min(expensive_thing1(), expensive_thing2()) evaluates three expensive expressions not two
Min and max are in no way specific to arduino, and this seems like yet another attempt to force the compiler to inline things when in reality the compiler probably knows better - and in this case the macro version had a big obvious downside
Ok, rant over... I had that one saved up.
C += 2
;)
Ended up picking it up 😁😁
Somewhere between 8.2% and 15% of households in the USA had a computer at home in 1987, when that oscilloscope was made. ;)
Since it has an LED on the front panel, it couldn't have been a whole lot older. ;)
My scope is from 89, but I bet you can find more about yours than I can mine haha
Mine is a 90s job
I plan to get a nice new one as soon as I learn 1) What this carpal tunnel will cost me 2) If I'll be retaliated against for filing worker's comp over it.
I want one from the last like...10ish years
my cheap handheld one is coming today with the probes (the main reason I wanted it)
nice
I want a handheld as well
My current scope is fine, but it needs new probes and they'd have to be calibrated and it's a whole thing where I'd prefer to just get a scope that has a support process
I have some BNC RCA adaptors I used to visualise Tchaikovsky with, but other than that I have had no real way to use my scope
i thought scope probe calibration was fairly simple?
Yeah but I don't wanna
That's the important part
I also want something with modern features
I thought calibration was something you have to do with any new probe, regardless of the oscilloscope
I think you're right, I mostly want one with probes that aren't from a random bin and were meant for the machine and also with neat features/functions
i mean, that's fair, it's why i want 2 scopes
an analogue one (which i have) for XY mode, and for general waveform analysis, and a digital one more for the snapshot stuff and the like
Not really calibration, but frequency compensation. Fortunately, it's pretty easy.
they call it calibration though
Once tried to buy an oscilloscope on Craigslist and I got ghosted
I buy most of my vintage tech on Marketplace
I get most of mine from yard/estate sales, swap meets, and hamfests.
I don’t have a job because I am a youthful lad, most of my money comes from soldering stuff for a teacher of mine
Been there, done that. I'm a fan of getting test gear on the cheap, even if I have to fix it up.
I have trouble resisting stuff like this
I know what you mean
Heh, I've seen your power supply chassis, that's a good find
The project one I abandoned?
I didn't know it was abandoned, but yeah, that thing. I tend to think of such objects as "temporarily abandoned" or "waiting for the right project"
oh, it's not permanently abandoned, don't worry, i just don't trust myself with high voltage
That makes good sense to me.
you know what happened last time I tried powering it on
Anyone do model trains? I'm looking to shop for just the decor, not the tracks or trains. Where's a good place to do that online?
Like miniature buildings, trees, people. Essentially like 40K but more Americana
I wanna do that, my wife is very into 40K
I want to make something for my coworkers
It's a scene on top of a PCB with an MCU on the bottom controlling the lights
I can easily do up to 64 cathodes
nice
But I'm unfamiliar with this world.
I think 40K is too big scale wise
I don't want like a 24 in square PCB heheh
Why not make the train track with a PCB too! https://www.teenytrains.com
Unique breakthrough maglev technology by IDL Motors, Inc. enabling magentically propeling smallest trains 1:1000 scale along the track. Configurable patented track enables virtually unlimited number of possible configurations. Ideal for hobbyists and DIY enthusiasts. Our URL is www.teenytrains.com
Hee hee hee
idk why but im obsessed with the idea of upgrading a swamp cooler with copper tubing
i wonder how it will turn out
what do you guys think?
It might work
Im going to have some fun soon. My phone is integrated with home assistant and has very many sensors including sleep confidence and next alarm. My laptop has 21 sensors although some of the sensors are useless to me. I am going to try to see what I can come up with different time/sensor triggered automations using my data from my laptop/phone. I use sleep confidence to turn all my stuff off if it thinks im sleeping
Also a big thing is I can track, view and analyze my habits across my phone and laptop which is why I like home assistant so much, it's easy and all of my data is under my control because I would not want anyone else to have access to it. It is very useful to me in many ways.
Anyone know much about pipe unions? I've got two .5" nipples on either side of a union, but on one side of the union, the nipple turns in noticeably farther than the other. Is this normal?
NPT
Ahhh I’ve been so anxious waiting for an email on if i will move forward for the embedded engineer role. Finally got it and it’s positive 🥳
yaaay!
Thankfully all the work I’ve done with electronics making boards for people and contributing to circuitpython has paid off
That's so great to hear!
So I leaned back in my chair, and felt it collapse under me. I took it apart, and I found out that all my weight is supported by two bolts. They sheared straight in half. This is the worst possible place to cost cut. Keep in mind, all this is beneath a layer of unremovable plastic.
Cost cutting is evil
"Cheap at any cost"
The curse of cast zinc
Update I had two screws that match in the box that I have to pay homage for the stuff I disassembled for no good reason
Weird luck
If you put weight on one side of the rest more than the other, it places torsion on the screw, obvious design flaw
I’ll make a cross brace for it
I have shop class tomorrow actually
Nice
Yeah, it helped me get past my technical interview and onto the “let’s continue the conversation email” it’ll be full circle when I have an offer 🙂
Oh nice job!
It’s great that all the work I’ve done with I2C and SPI made it so that I could confidently talk about and talk about how I would implement solutions to situations
I feel like this is a silly question, but they don't make a Millicandela Simulator do they? Some way to get an idea of how bright an LED will be?
Not that I know of; but that sounds like a cool idea
Yeah I'll make an offering to the software gods and see what happens. I have to calibrate though, last time I did this we got Twitter.
Lol
Hey, that's a good find
Thanks 😊
gratz, are those screws supposed to rotate or to hold the backseat in place ?
they are supposed to hold it in place. thats not fully tightened, just wanted to demonstrate that they have a massive amount of force going perpendicular to them
I see, my local shop use standard big screws so I bought the most solid (young modulus etc) I could find and didn't even bother with their and just used my screws over 3 chains already 😄
If it was possible I would have gotten titanium screws
Is this kind of fuzzy trace typical when you're approaching the edge of the scope's frequency range? This is 0.5us per div, on a 20mhz scope. Or is this just the kind of thing you get from a 35 year old piece of equipment? Lol. I can't figure out how to slow down the signal to check. Being generated on an esp32 so could it be an artifact of an 8-bit DAC? (Also a 10x zoom)
I'd say the top one show 4 enemy aircraft
That looks like the wave is varying somewhat, you can try adjusting the sweep frequency, trigger level, and trigger holdoff to freeze a more stable subset of the wave. The scope appears to be working nicely.
That looks a whole lot like mains interference, your connection to the signal source may not be properly referenced.
This is my first scope so It's all very new to me and ive got lots of questions... what is the sweep frequency doing? is that "SWP VAR"? It seems to stretch out the wave horizontally but im not sure if that's it or it just appears to be it. Near the center of the knob, I see a single wave, but towards either end I see two waves just about out of phase.
What is trigger holdoff? I dont seem to have that knob unless it's called something else. I've been playing with all of em but I can't seem to get a clean wave, other than reducing the time/div. Or, when I touch signal clip, it gets cleaner..
It's currently alligator clipped onto a jumper wire soldered to an esp32 header, so not exactly scientific grade connects here...
There should be a click-stop knob to set the sweep frequency in steps, and a variable control to adjust it between steps
That scope may not have trigger holdoff (a feature on some fancy scopes)
With that hookup, I would fully expect hum pickup like that.
Switched to a frequency generator kit that I built a while back, much much cleaner signal
Idk what English learners mean when they say it's confusing "8 square inches" and "8 inches square" meaning completely different things makes total, total sense.
I've done this for more than one marginal machine, in one case apparently the system cooling was dependent on graphics drivers I didn't have handy?
i want to try lapping a cpu and heat sink, not to the point of using thermal grease, but to the point of guage block like accuracies, and then wringing them together
completely unrelated, but nice flag
I am just watching The dropout series. It is about Elizabeth holmes and The Theranos.
Look what I spotted, check out the code. This scene take place around 2006, they testing a protoype of a machine, which test your blood. 😄
Metal-to-metal contact is best, but I'm not sure most CPUs and heatsinks are rigid enough to maintain the required flatness. Another approach I've seen is liquid metal (gallium, indium, mercury, etc.) as thermal filler, giving metal-to-metal contact.
yes, that looks a lot like a slightly varying frequency
Well done
I credit my success to Adafruit
And the community here
Without y’all, I wouldn’t have had the confidence in the areas of the interview that mattered most
Do tell, what's the job?
Senior Embedded Engineer with a startup called Spark Grills
Noice
I'm considering a move back to hosting, but I don't want a customer-facing role.
Nice! I hope you can find a great role
I recently replaced my HDMI audio extractor (HDMI input --> HDMI video-only output + S/PDIF or RCA audio) with a newer model. The old one works perfectly fine, but supports HDCP only up to version 1.4, so it can't play some DRM-protected content, particularly from Disney's streaming service.
Is there any good use I can put the old device to, including giving it away to someone who has a use for it?
Congratulations!!!!
It's OK, I ended up accidentally referring a adafruit discord friend and now she's a coworker. Not doing electronics tho, LOL.
The power of some dedicated screwing around with stuff cannot be denied.
(Also, the power of answering questions and having the answers be right enough, LOL)
Congrats! Don't know you personally but you definitely deserve it haha
Thanks! Adafruit and those community deserves so much credit for helping me develop the knowledge I used in that interview. It just adds so much to the value of not just doing things yourself in terms of hardware/software in your home. But the skills that are directly industry applicable. Amazing
Adafruit, helping prepare the next generation of engineers
congratulations from me as well
Anyone good at painting? I'm bad at scale. If a person's head is 12 in wide at the widest, how would I figure out how far apart their eyes should be to not look weird?
e.g is this right? so an eye would be 12/5" wide? and spaced with the center at 18/5" in from either side?
what do you need to do?
you can figure it out by observing the subject, there are variations
though a third eye in between it usually works
to get more correct measurements you can use your pencil as a meter, while closing one eye, and using your pen as a xy axis
or experiment untill it doesn't look right
I'm not doing the drawing, I just need to know how far apart the eyes should be (and ideally how far from either side of the head), if the head being drawn is 12" across
when i drew cats before i required a live cat so I cpuld put a paper in their face and get the head shape and mark their eyes position with an highliter (so it wouldnt go throught the piece of paper by accident)
but was difficult because cat would either kit it away most of the time ruining the shape or come sniff it while it wad near my drawing 🤣
I miss having a cat 😢
what are you doing? datasets? for for what do you need it?
if you're drawing you can also use the mouths ends, they usually coincide with the eye's center
No, I'm not doing the drawing. I just need the information about a single figure. It's not drawn yet, or I'd just measure, so I'm hoping there's a rule of thumb I can use.
What is this
Polarized capacitor?
[...sorry admins.]
It's still good for audio from older devices, or non-DRM ones (like computer outputs).
Roller? Pinback? Standoff? Coupler? Old style switch terminal? I used some brass bits like that to repair my glasses once.
huh, neat
neat'
I still think it's a MONSTER gold HDMI capacitor 🤣
i can't
decide
which flippin' linux distro out of my biggest three [four] to try. [Void, Arch, Endeavour, and Fedora.]
i don't want to risk frying my only remaining machine since my PC died.
I mean yeah, it sounds like fun, but I have never done it before.
Yeah. I have approximately 1 device in my home, is the thing.
Maybe I can find some 2-device friends who want it, but they might be out of my league.
Twice as many devices
even though it might seem a little overrated and/or memed to he77?
ah whatever, i've had my eye on Arch for a while now, so I'd might as well.
but first...
I need to do some more research before I make my final verdict.
watching the new Marvel movie!
nice
Oh I just think it looks the cleanest and has the least garbage
ah, that's fair
i personally don't know having never used it, aside from the memes
Put all four ISOs plus one of Ubuntu on a UFD with Ventoy and just do one. If you don't like it, try another.
when can't find a decent electronics box, buy one for fishing 🤣
I've done that
Will have it in a couple of day was 18$. Electronics box from dubious brands were 40-120$...
colors aren't the best but that can be fixed by sticking carbon sheets and rpi/arduino stickers 😄
also got 0.6mm solder lead in this package and that led/magnifying glass plastic "helmet" thing
going to go donate my printer to staples as well soon even if it still "works" take up some space
time to do some spring cleaning and maybe get some space for a peg board with a solder station... because my community electronics lab won't be able to solve that problem
I use tackle/craft boxes too, and the creative storage units offered by the Plano Molding Company and so forth.
If I had more room/money, I'd be tempted to buy one of those over-the-top ScrapBox folding storage cabinets: https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/sites/default/files/field/image/scrapbox-workbox.jpg
Would be that for me for around 2400 US$
not just for electronics storage of course, I have bicycle tools too
And that 1000$ workstation table (except with steel top) for vise, to mount dremels or saw etc (950 US$)
the organizer would be right to the right of the L shaped workstation table (door facing leftwards
If I had a windfall like the 2nd prize in lottery I'd rent a commercial space that would be around 700 sf for this hobby 🙂
In my city a low-scale CNC/PCB business would probably works because this sort of thing isn't mainstream in my city and the companies that does it locally won't do anything unless it's a least for half a million (they are industrial scale for an order of say 10000 parts)
also it's better than buying a big house and making a workshop because you pay 3$/sf a year for common spaces/services among which is one where you they clean and you can throw the sawdust/pcb shrapnels/sodler etc in an industrial bin and it's disposed of properly. Also a loading bay for semi doing deliveries (which enable freight delivery) and the option for 3-phase 440V/600A outlets
Got a link?
Is this the packaging company?
yeah the uline packaging companny but they sell a lot of stuff to business as well. I always liked the soap/tissue dispensers they have in office so I bought one for home
But generally they are expensive and downright scammy (like the cleaning refills that are 1/4 of the price ion hardware stores) and the huge shipping costs, and not really a place for delivery to home (they ship most of their stuff by freight trucks which require a garage door, garage elevator and spaces for semis)
Hmm, well, I'll have to see if I'm willing to order from them for my job. I avoid them in my personal life.
I am getting a work space and it needs a desk
Yeah I heard their owners were controversial. They probably have competitors, would just like a simple catalog if I had the opportunity to have a business where I know what is being sold has decent quality
Without having to "request a quote" every single time...
Really like that hakko soldering bot too, too bad it costs between 20k$ and 80k$ depending on options 😄
Staples/hardware store are nice for entry-level stuff but not much more unfortunately imho
and they seldom list weight limits as well
If I bought a worktable for a business I need to know that I can put a 1 ton machine on it and still keep me and potential employees safe
since you order things at work, do you know what a partition on a work table is called ? Like the one the clear acrylic ones they use for covid but for permanent installation and opaque
When I look for partition it only shows floor versions, not one you'd put on a desk to better organize it or so that move than one person can work on the same table
something like that but higher, not called a sneeze guard and opaque
that way I could partition my L-shaped desk into personal computer | shelves - workshop -shelves | office remoting computer
USB wombat + circuitpython HID = on/off
Next step is to use a board with wifi and then use mqtt to integrate with home assistant. I think this may be the only computer where we need an adb solution but I could be wrong.
I have an old iPod Touch laying around. Just charged it up and factory reset it. Are there any neat things I can do with this fruit device? EDIT: I mean, other than chucking it into the trash?
grrrr can only find transparent plastic pieces no matter how much I - it on google
that's a pretty good deal tbh
I made a 50cm/2m/1m (d/w/h) workbench out of aluminum extrusion and it ran me ~700 after all was said and done. Hardware ended up being way more expensive than I guessed
Fairly certain it only comes with the table thought. the pegboard, drawer, bottom shelve metal accross etc seems to be all be accessories
Even with that footnote I think that's pretty fair
Heres how my thing ended up
I actually really dig the alu extrusion for this- easy to take apart if I want to move it, lightweight, and I can bolt on stuff like power strips no problem
you made that on your own?!
Ya
It's just t-slot aluminum extrusion
Super easy to work with
Like everything but the wood is off the shelf parts
I'm not very manual and have no tools but trying to find a way to organize my desk better/partition it/hide gaps
I mostly have lot of cardboard from moving boxes
If I was to approach partitioning I think I wouldn't bother with tall panels
But instead just like, bars across the desk clamped to it
As a note, misumi (the extrusion supplier) will cut to length whatever you want for a pretty small fee
So that whole thing could just be assembled with a screwdriver lol
2x4" wood segments are also off the shelf too and that makes a pretty nice top
basically have a loft and trying to fill the gap between desk and counter with the slope and partition off the counter
no idea where to start beside covering/cutting theses boxes and gluing some metal looking sheet to them (maybe aluminium foil)
the partition on the counter would have an hole for the fan power cord and hole for my charger so I can hold my phone on it
but there is a 6-7 inches gap above it
dust keep getting in these caps and I have to constantly broom these hard to access places which make me enjoy life less
Aluminum foil will rip the second you look at it funny
With minimal tooling I think what I would do is just clamp a plank to the desk
Won't be flush (or look great) but it will be sturdy
yeah and abs/acrylic seem to be hard to find in opaque colors at under 25$ per sf
don't like the texture of wood but can be easily be changed by gluing some sheet to it like a roll of carbon texture
and yeah the boxes have to stay there, not only it prevent dust from getting under, but it save storage space in my loft that is only 620sf
my counter is stone though, can't really drill into it, and I'd rather not drill in the desk. I can support a piece of wood with the boxes
but for the counter it's harder, I'd probably have to hammer a piece of wood in so it stand on it's own
I wonder about adhesive strips
Those 3m command strips or whatever might be able to support something nicely
like the ones for picture hanging with velcro ?
so just to know but did you use something like a dremel 4000 rotary tool to cut the cast aluminum ?
No a table saw lol
Also it's extruded not cast
With less tools I would use a hacksaw
Aluminum is nice and soft do you want to cut it more than grind it away like you would with an abrasive wheel
(with no tooling at all, you can order whatever lengths you want)
They'll even drill and tap the ends for you so you can do blind joints
I have no idea where to order extruded aluminum though and it would probably be much more pricey than wood/abs/acrylic right ?
Misumi ec
1m of 3030 is uh
Somewhere between 11-17$
I forget where
Total bill for all the metal there was ~250$ iirc?
If I was doing it again I wouldn't use the corner plates which added a huge sum to the cost
But instead use blind joints and corner gussets
trying to find a panel I could cut on their site
Also- home Depot and friends can usually cut wood to lengths
Don't expect anything fancy or nice from them but
wood tools aren't really a problem, fablab I go to has cnc, 3x 3d printer, dremels on stand, various saws etc
Cutting boards
Cutting boards are great
You can just cut em to whatever and they're nice high density polymer
it's more finding the materials, and they aren't equipped for hard materials (like hard wood above 0.5" or metals or hard plastic above 1")
I use TAP Plastics for stuff like that. They'll cut it for me and ship it. A 12"x12" piece of 1/8" opaque red is $10.
question:
edas do often comprehend a local library and an online one (like in altium)
for doing the online library, what are they doing? using a chromedriver?
like I Know that I could use python with like selenium, but idk if it would a nice solution or not
pffft 2 hardward stores wont even ship building materials
not even 4 feet long shelves....
Seems like a great place even if they ship from the other side of the continent if shipping is reasonable might be worth it. Canada doesn't seem to have a similar service...
Type 1 PVC 10.5x28.5x.25 would be 18$ to cover the gap
black led acrylic 14$ for half the thickness (wonder how well that would work with arduino grade leds...)
I used to buy plastics from Read Plastics, about an hour's drive from here, but they closed their doors. I found some other services, but they wanted me to buy full sheets and tell them how to cut them and send me the pieces. So I went with TAP Plastics, I just tell them what I want and they ship it to me. Even though they're across the country from me, I've been happy with them.
seriously, cutting boards. If your gap is smaller than a cutting board you can get on amazon (which get pretty wide) it's a great material
usually HDPE
the cutting board is 40$ for my size...
and too thick at the minimum thickness in the dropdown
the gap front is 10.5 inch wide, 28.5 high
on top 19.5 long, 10.5 wide
rip ok
Tax season has passed but I’m still dealing with the bologna caused by working in one state initially and my employer not paying taxes for that state..
You too, eh?
Yeah. I hate our tax system because Utah looked at my W2s and decided to adjust my return down because Nc taxes were not taken out
So they just assume that I was in Utah for the whole year
so the hardware store 2 streets away have surplus MDF they are selling at cost, TAP plastics seemed great but the shipping to me is higher than the cost of the goods...
NC taxes are the worst.
Like, literally, the worst. I would like to meet the person that has ever gotten a return on their NC taxes. I took a sabbatical for an entire year and still owed them taxes, somehow. Like, what? 😄
I think the most I got in the past was $300
But somehow 2 months worth of income accrued $1800 in income taxes
Barely $17000 in taxable income
Wow. I have never gotten a return from NC. Federal, I think the biggest I ever got was some $7,000 or something when I still claimed my kids back in the day.
That's whack, though. They must have messed up something with residency or whatever.
To be fair I was in school and sustaining on food stamps.
No the taxes part was on my employers part. I sent them North Carolina tax forms, they even listed NC Resident for state taxes in my pay statements but paid $0 in NC taxes, paid them all the Utah, even when I didn’t live in Utah
Anyway, taxes are stupid
The way they are done anyway
Yeah. Taxes are stupid. We were owed taxes, like, quite a bit. Fed decides to claim that we never filed for 2016-2018. Which we did, just not online. Then they audit us, which took them a year and a half... Guess what, they somehow figured out that we owed them $4k, somehow. Some guy in an IRS basement was probably like, "there, I fixed it!"
Also, I came here to say: I have deep regrets. I decided to put some Proxmox VE disks on a NAS with RAID 3 and 4 7,200 RPM spinny boys... It's lagging so hard I am crying right now.
Ouch....
Also, probably related, I just spent $360 on two 2 TB SSDs.
Sheeeeesh
I'd never buy a 2 TB ssd
I can't afford the 4 TB
but still much muns
Neither can I
oh, I misread your first statement
I thought it said: "I never buy a 2 TB ssd" but it said "I'd never" which is completely different 😄
Nah, I meant too expensive
I need the speed. And, I had some money saved up.
I'll keep the NAS just for backups and for Nextcloud storage from now on.
Nice, I would if I could
I am thinking maybe I need to go back to RAID 10, though?
Why??
Oh, I was gonna say, why not RAID 6
LOL
But makes sense
that's the reason 😄
🤦♂️
(because I was a cheapo and bought the cheapest, best rated NAS enclosure I could find)
I would too, that's how I roll
I figured, RAID 6? Who needs it!
I did need it a few days ago, however. When I completely mangled the metadata on the 10 TB btrfs partition that was on that NAS. I missed the point where btrfs is a "technology preview" in Proxmox.
(it was in RAID 10)
I was able to extract the data, however.
But, the metadata was toast. I could find absolutely no way to restore it. 😦
So, didn't lose files, just had to redo the RAID on that NAS.
oof
Well, that's good
lessons learned and all that (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
RAID's kinda a pain in the rear
can be, yeah
There is such a thing as hate RAID discord servers 😉
wish I had a quarter mil laying about so I could buy an entire rack full water-cooled NVMe drives with on-board controllers. I would build the bestest Ceph cluster of all the times.
I think everyone wishes they have a quarter mil laying around to do dope stuff with
I'm going to make a synthesizer cyberdeck with a combo of a RPi Pico and a Teensy 4.1 as the brains
I've got a nice synth shell that has a multitude of internal space to work with 😄
wow
nice
Yeah the difference is what one considers worth spending it on
I know a friend who would say Steam games
For instance if I had a quarter million dollars I'd completely set up every last aspect of a non profit design and prototyping firm
And still have $200k to work with
👍
If I were you, I would put the remaining $200k into a ||retirement fund||
Nah I'm disabled to the point where two of my therapists and many other people in my life are baffled I'm not on benefits... So I'll just get on those benefits to survive and run a non profit without worrying about starving that calculates my earnings to not exceed the cutoff point for external income to continue receiving disability
My disability isn't going away
And I don't want to get to a point where I end up kicking myself off benefits before it's possible for me to survive on my own
Then get screwed over by my disability later when I've let my guard down
Well, there's an extra 200k for ya
As is my history
That's not great
"Often has a brain" lol
I love the profile
That's in reference to my bipolar
Which is actually the disability I was referring to
Ah, sorry if I offended you
No it's meant to be funny
Oh good
I use humor as a coping mechanism
But yeah it's also serious
Often I can think on levels that blow others away
But during the lows I have issues with single and double digit arithmetic
And those can be quite randomly timed
So my best option is to get on disability because employment can't accommodate that.
(I tried)
(many times)
Well, I guess that's what disability is for
I wish I could think on levels that blow others away
Took me 7 years from the point of being told I'm eligible for disability to finally accept that I'd done all I possibly could to try not to get on it
But you're not on it yet??
Nope still haven't done the application
Ah
It's an anxiety and mental block thing
Makes sense
I've tried to apply for it twice before and the systems are either designed by someone who's the most incompetent ever or they're the most competent and the websites are designed to trigger crisis in the mentally ill
Haha
Probably the first one
I try not to attribute something to malice if it can be contributed to incompetency and/or laziness
It's a government system so I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt
SSDI??
But regardless both are possibilities so I layed them out in order of likelihood
I don't even remember specifically what I'm eligible for I haven't done any deep research into it for years because of the mental block
Mmm
I've got a community who have been my support group for years though who are just waiting to help me when I feel I'm ready to tackle it
That's always a nice thing to have
I'm in an okay spot at this very moment so I've got a bit of float time to get things in order
So I'm waiting for this most recent low to pass
so 50% done getting a power drill (corded, brushed motor, 120V, variable speed, stand-alone tool) from HD
I sadly only mostly have like 20 discord servers as my community
Should be just about finished, been down here for a week
just need to understand this drill set stuff 🤣
I just realized that I just said "sadly only mostly" lol
just want to drive screws and make 1 inch or 2 inch diameter holes in wood but they might have different diameters across the depth
HD??
Home Depot lol
depending on how much you spent, I would maybe have bought a cordless impact driver instead... has more utility, and they're generally a lot easier to take places
It is allegedly both
can link if you want, places I'm going to take it to have extension so fine on this and I'm in a phase where I'm scared of lithium batteries and I always prefer corded...
chuck capacity says 0.38, size 0.38 inch, type: keyless so I guess I have to look at bits like that
what's important for me is mostly the variable speed, corded and long warranty
I also have a disorderly freewheel hex bolt that I may need to impact drive soon if it keeps being disorderly 🤣
I even used a cheater bar on it and it won't budge. Last hope is a bench vise from the workshop I'm renting for 1h on monday
can impact driver make 1/2 inch diameter holes with spade bits/hole saws bits ?
home depot claim this is both a drill and impact driver
I just noticed those bits are reverse chirality
lol chirality 🤣
the only chirality I know of is in chemistry so this is funny to me
I mean technically parity also fits but it's more ambiguous
Chirality is just the rotation direction relative to the direction of motion
(or the direction of rotation relative to the direction the bit sticking out is pointing in the chemistry context)
It also applies to circularly polarized light
Because the overall circular progression can go clockwise or counter clockwise along the direction of motion
also doing spring cleaning and I'm sick of my broom and mop falling down
and want to install a peg board even if it mean plugging the holess when I leave the apartment...
What about individual clips with sticky backing?
Then the worst you have to do is repaint spots where it peels on removal
Alternatively you could get a setup that's like a larger version of a tree for a set of wood stove tools
not sure the sticky stuff like 3m command brand strips would work well if the pegboard has some heavy stuff on it like dremel, box of nails/screws etc
Basically just 3 clips on a vertical pole with a weighted base
For making sure they don't fall over but can be tucked into a corner
Doesn't cover the tools like the dremel but the cleaning tools would be taken care of
oof drill bits are much more complicated than I thought. Reading the home depot tutorial
Where's the confusion?
I've been using power tools since I was in single digits of age
So I may be able to help
Well I'd rather have a set with different types of bits for the variety of work I want to do. Driving screws in stuff, fastening/removing hex bolts specially on a bicycle (pic to follow), making hole in something that doesn't have a mounting kit to screw it in a wall, making up to 2 inches diameter holes in hard wood up to 0.5" deep(hole saw/spade bits) which may have varying width accross the depth (fortsner/countersink/step drill(???))
Something like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-140-Piece-Impact-Driver-Bit-Set/1002575854
Or are you using a regular drill
I missed that part
Ahhhh okay I normally use hand tools on a bike
This is the hex bolt tool that I'll need to impact drive if the freewheel still refuse to come off
it's the adapter for a shimano freewheel and there is a smaller hex inside
Have you tried using a cheater bar and a mallet?
cheater bar yeah but an old pvc pipe, the workshop I'm renting for 2$ an hour monday probably have a steel/brass one
and they have bench vises which is how I removed the difficult ones in the past
Yeah pvc tends to break pretty easily when used as a cheater bar 😅
Depending on how old it'll either shatter or fold at the apex
I'm not sure, home depot claim they are both
I'm not sure how to tell by the picture, maybe you can
but in the spec it says drill/impact driver
product name says RIDGID R70011 Heavy-Duty 8 Amp 3/8 in. Corded Drill/Driver
Looks like a Jacobs chuck which says to me it's a dual mode unit but I also don't see a torque selector which tells me it isn't
So I'm confused
trying to find the manual to see how to switch mode
manufacturer website also says VSR drill/impact driver
Often there will be a dial behind the chuck that has different torque settings with the highest marked as a drill bit but the dual mode impact / drill units ice seen have the same type of dial but with a hammer sitting past the drill bit
Hmm
I wonder if it uses the distance you push the trigger to determine mode
Either way if it says it's an impact as well as a drill it probably is
Because false advertising gets a hefty fine
(note: only really applies across the board to medium-large domestic corporations)
"The direction of bit rotation is reversible and is controlled by a selector located above the switch trigger"
don't see anything about switching between drill and impact in the manual
Yeah that's standard on many drills and impacts
doesn't even say impact in the manual
Hmmm
"The drill has a keyless chuck that makes it simple to tighten or release drill bits in the chuck jaws"
Also pretty standard on battery powered drills
Dedicated impact units have a quick release similar to air hoses
Hence the recessed region on the hex shaft of the bit
There's a ball in a detent with a locking system that pushes it into that recessed region to prevent the hammering action from loosening your bit
(on a Jacobs chuck with a hammer action it's a potential failure mode)
Seem to be a combo in the same tool, doesn't actually say drill/IMPACT driver, only drill/driver
Okay that makes it sound like its not actually a proper impact mechanism
Impact bits can be put into a Jacobs chuck but not the other way around
but from what I read impact dfriving are for driving a lot of fasteners, while for me it would be a minor use ?
And if else fail i'll just hammer the screw in the wall and untighten / retighten it manually ?
If you don't do a lot of metal fasteners a regular drill will do pretty much everything
And if you get impact bits they'll work in it still
You just don't get the hammer action
If you work in the shop a lot the best bet is to get both
For driving screws I much prefer using an impact but for drilling holes it isn't great even if you can find the bit you want for it
nah it's for home use, the fablabs I'll use will probably have both
2nd one has a dedicaterd wood workshop but it costs 6$ a day to rent and the annual membership is much more expensive
Stanley makes some real nice drill bits as long as all you're doing is alu and wood
they are also going to have a metal machining shop/smelter/forge soon
Will have to look into it because all the times I've tried to drill holes using an impact with bits designed for it, it has bound up
And I've only tried it with wood
And I only have an impact
considering getting a dremel 4000 eventually as well, but not sure it's of any use if one doesn't have a manual stand
probably not for that large a hole, you're better off with a drill
what brand is it, though?
impact driver of the same brand are all cordless and twice as expensive so it's clearly not a real impact driver
That's probably my problem, I was using spade bits at about the half inch scale
And I think those actually were Stanley brand
that's not going to work well with an impact, for sure
so an impact driver is the power version of a manual punch then ?
spade bits and circular mcguffins are something you bring out your big [insert pronoun] drill for.
and auger bits, not that i'm ever going to drill soils or concrete
An impact is like having a cheater bar and a mallet built into your driver
I see, what about impact driver vs impact wrench ? They are completely different too ?
When it comes to screwing things into things, I think of it more like a torque wrench, in that it'll keep clicking until it's done it is stuck
Same concept, more torque I'd guess
Speaking of impact drivers...
I have to install my fume hood
are there manual tools that kinda help if an hex bolt is stuck ? is that what socket wrench/ratchets do ?
Actually, I misspoke. My bits are all DeWalt. Forgot I upgraded them.
That's what I generally use but you can use a torque wrench it's just not recommended on something like a bike
You want that thing to be able to be serviced mid ride
My impact driver is the 20V MAX
So only hand tightening
WD-40! 😄
(Remember, it's not a lubricant, it's the exact opposite!)
Just remember that any place you put WD-40 that should be lubed needs to be re-lubed before you use it
eh I always forget about wd-40, non-destructive destruction 😄
I've heard of some guys with opinions like using it on their firearms, but no, don't use WD-40 on anything you wish to keep lubricated.
after cleaning the WD-40 off
EXACTAMUNDO
well since I'm switching my wheel I need to move the freewheel, which mean i'll have the grease the new wheel
not much more of an effort to also grease the whole thing and the sprocket
yup, so WD-40 will be great in that use-case
So WD-40 to service, carburetor cleaner to remove the WD-40, then machine oil
but I'd be surprised if the bench vise won't work
(wear protective gloves)
these things have so much grip and I'll be turning the wheel clockwise ...
not much better manual torque than this
speaking of which, only safety glass I can get atm is 3m securefit and not the 4$ one-use disposable ones
But I don't understand how these can even fit ? Doesn't seem to be adjustable for various sizes of heads ?
Completely off topic to this off topic conversation but I decided I'm going to make a super low power go-kart using one of these with a weed whacker engine
Going to change the license plate from "CZY COUP" to "CRZY COUP"
I guess that would be the other choice at 6x the price, pretty sure using a full-size circular saw in a 620sf apartment is illegal though 🤣
Also I wish I was go enough at DIY construction to do stuff like that, I'm really starting from zero never had tools etc
My brother has that saw, it's pretty small
never used a cnc or 3d printer or laser tool or even vinyl machine
problem with cordless is that they lack power so you have to check voltage and if it's brushless or brushed that's why I want with corded as well
I imagine it takes a lot of motor to dig a 2 inch hole with an hole saw in a thick hardwood piece
I've used one of those three and seen two of them done in person, planning to extend my tool set to all 3 though
For my personal lab
Currently I just have printing
20$ a year fablab has 3 of them in in desktop, entry level and mid-level
including a rare one that was great bang for the price that is out of production and lot of peoples still want
All I have to do is follow some training and help others to use it, seems like a good deal vs what they cost
anyway give me sec to find the datasheet so I can ask the most important thing for the drill
I'm not sure "2 inches diameter holes in hard wood up to 0.5" deep(hole saw/spade bits) which may have varying width accross the depth (fortsner/countersink/step drill(???))" properly conveyed what I hope to do
I'd like to make a pc joystick that use a keyswitch from a real tractor, these plans seems to suggest I have to drill 3 holes of specific depths and specific diameters across the same hole in a wood panel for panel mounting
Seems like I have to make a 0.61" diameter hole that is .39" deep and then a another one that is 0.75" and 0.19" deep to hold it with the nut to hold it securely?
google seems to say I have to use a spade flush mount drill bit for something like this
I do manufacturing research so I like to have them on hand at home
I'm not sure what on the spec sheet of giving you that impression but it looks to me like you just drill a hole big enough for the threads to fit through and put the nut on the back?
let me highlight it
I found some fibre washers in the basement (the previous owner had a vast collection of fasteners in jars down there, left some behind).
They work really well securing an artist's easel (beechwood) without crushing or denting the wood.
then just the wing nut supplied by the easel manufacturer (they give you flat brass washers).
I wish my place wasn't so small and wasn't littered with smoke alarms and sprinklers...
when I move I'll look for a more workshop friendly apartment and less sensitive fire fighting equipment
I have a bedroom and a 120 square foot dedicated lab space to call my own
yeah, drill the hole for the biggest part, where threads are just to the left of your rectangle
Hope hardwood will be enough for the torque this can do. Will probably need to stick the end result to my desk too to prevent it from moving
But I really want a key, never ever seen one on a joystick
You could use a lock washer or something. Looks like a 3/4-inch hole would probably do the trick
I mean the hallway is literally created by the space between my furniture, couldn't be more cramped
Used to just run my 3D printers and other experiments in my bedroom but I had an incident with chlorine gas poisoning due to being silly about electrolyte choice in an electrochemistry experiment and decided I absolutely needed a separate lab space with a fume hood and talked to the land owners and the result is a building mostly made from scrap materials to do lab work in
I have a big L-desk in here and a big table, only space I have for a workshop is my L-shaped desk
but vertically, hence the peg boards
and adding wood panels so I can reclaim dead spaces in gaps
hence the drill 😄
Smart move
Reusing dead space is the theme of this lab when it's fully set up
Think tiny home but a lab
Very nice
showing that pîc earlier but I'm hoping to replace these with plastic/wood panels
Ahhh
so I can divide my tight space and get more bins/shelves in that deep space. Also the box over the desk prevent dust from getting in the gap
And make me an happier person as I don't have to constantly broom it now...
tomorrow I'm getting scrap presswood at cost from the hardware store so hopefully I can hammer a plank on the counter behind the fan
Well I'm not exactly in design mode at the moment due to being (hopefully toward the end) in a bipolar down swing however my brain can't help but to answer specific questions it has the answers to in any state I'm in
so that it will stay sstuck without needing support
I'll still use that cardboard behind the computer screen though as it make the wall less boring
I don't like the texture of cardboard or wood, so I'd glue on some metallic paper like the one in the picture
I'm going to paint murals as I get things set up in my lab space
Try to make it feel like the walls aren't a hard boundary and trick my brain into feeling like the space is bigger
wall height mirrors are great for that 😄
Ooh good point
But at the same time I'd want them not to be glass
Because I have a history of clumsy
and they are expensive, and sometimes the glue the installers use have manufacturing issue and a mirror fall off
I mean
happened to me and chipped my toilet
I mean I have to change keyboard every year since I'm a dirty llama
that's why I have all those spare keyboards boxes and I always buy the same one
It's like a yearly rental
Guess that outline
maybe not solder right next to the keyboard?
When all you have is a tiny bedroom, accidents happen
each year? man my keyboard is umm 13? 15? years old lol
This was before I had the lab set up
this is the image i use for my spotify playlist lmao
my 2020 keyboard corpse 😦
For real? Or are you just making some reference I don't quite get?
Not even worth trying to clean unless I had a very powerful vacuum machine with automotive scale brush
Like I said yearly rental 😄
Anyway the keyboard letters and mouse paint start to fade after a year
Nah that'll come out with an air compressor after using a keycap puller
so for 40$ a year it's perfect 🤣
air duster or air compressor ? duster just make it more sticky
Oh... Do you eat junk food at your keeb?
I may solder next to mine but that's keyboard abuse
That and I'm dusty anyway pieces of my body get in and I can't help it
OHHHHHHHH okay
My current keyboard is the 2021 rental and still alive
Discord sent me to the wrong message when I clicked to view what it was replying to
So I thought you were saying the keyboard pic
But I'm a bit more careful with it until letters fade again
I also have a tons of surplus alcohol wipes due to my covid anxiety attacks
2021 keyboard
I can't stand the feeling of bits of stuff between my fingers and my keyboard
So I wipe my hands before typing
I also have a spare that is used for my xbox/raspberry pi 2+
And if I eat at the computer I finish a bout of nomming, wipe up, use the computer, then stop using the computer for the next bout
But that's just my personal sensory stimulus thing, I don't like stuff feeling weird when I touch it
I don't eat much chips but I like making french canapés (so crackers...)
What may help now is my big desk
See, what causes rapid buildup is typing with the bits still on your fingers and leaning over the keyboard while eating
(I know both from experience)
which have enough space for a plate and the keyboard above it
Used to be pretty messy at my computer and it just got to me one day and I couldn't do it anymore
Now it's just like... Resistors and hair I contend with
Did I mention in that dead space because there is a difference of elevation I'm going to make it 6 inch high and install 3 automotive cupholders in it ?
Just so I have cup holders next to my counter ?
I mean that's a solid way to have things less spillage inclined near sensitive things
And the divider on the counter will have an holder for two smarthphone so I can use my old one as a door viewerhole camera and recharge both
with an hole drilled in to pass the wires for the desk fan and the two holders
Just need to find a heat-proof enclosure for my arduino stove sensor and I'm good for the counter
Dang you're just full of great ideas... I was trying to figure out what to use for the camera in the peep hole for my lab but now I have a phone that isn't my main phone
And it has a decent camera
And I also wasn't sure what to do with that
I changed my old phone because the camera is broken but at close range it's ok
My old phone fell on its screen on a rock on concrete
My front door is very secure and thick so sometimes I don't even hear peoples knock which is the need for that camera
Decided to upgrade but I had to get a bricked one to repair the old one to recover my 2FA
So now I have an extra phone
Also I have an auditive problem that cause me to hear loud bangs/explosions sometimes when I'm tired that are illusions so this make me feel safer that someone isn't trying to force their way in
I'm familiar with auditory hallucinations. I have schizoaffective features with my bipolar
I already use command strips to hold stuff on my desk or on the wall near my entry door so I don't lose them
So I often hear a whole bunch of random people (some I know, some I don't) whispering my name barely audibly
Among other things
like my air conditioning remote is stuck to the wall with a sticky velcro pad so I always know where it is
But it's all in my head
right under the unit
I don't hear random peoples in that way but I kinda know the feeling because sometimes I'm so tired I fall asleep on twitch
and I get woken up by loud streamers after a couple of raids in the middle of the night, sometimes in a foreign language
Yeah it's super strange because
I'll hear my name
Turn to look in the direction
And there's nobody there
Then I hear someone else say my name and I turn to look and again it's nobody
By now I've learned to identify when it's happening by that point
But even once I've identified that it's happening I still hear it
But growing up with 10 siblings many of whom liked to mess with me by whispering my name and pretending nothing happened didn't help
Yeah for my loud bang thing/explosion sound I learned to check if someone around me is alarmed, first time it happened I called 911 because I thought they were gunshots or something
See I hear gunshots on the regular where I live
And explosions
(live out in the county so things are a bit more lax)
mounting for using an old phone as door camera
So even if I were imagining some of it, I would have no way to know
Nifty
I just have to press the protective case of the phone and it hold, eventually I might run a power cord extension to it stapled to the wall and the charger to keep it permanently charged. But atm I charge it manually and only put it there when expecting a delivery or at night
But also thinking about that... It's super odd the number of explosions I hear nowhere near the 4th of July or new years with how close I live to an airport
Coming from the direction of the airport half the time too
I know a while back some extremists were attacking trains nearby
I live 2 streets from the police station which mean no drone even if I legally could under 250g
So if the noises I hear were real they'd hear it too
me too, but since it's under 250g there is very little regulation since it's considered a toy
(without a commercial drone license and getting clearance from the airport for every flight iirc)
Yeah the only drone I have worth flying outside has a 7' wingspan
And so I just can't use it
Right now it's disassembled
The only rules are restricted airspaces (so nothing around 1.8 nautical miles of the airport, around jails, military bases etc) and not putting peoples in danger while flying it(vague law so they can apply it if you are really annoying)
That's why I don't want to fly it near a police station I'm sure they'd find a vague obscure law
Yeah I'm right at the edge of that 1.8 nautical mile bubble
Kinda need a car if you have a drone in canada because you can't really fly it anywhere near a city unless you are a license pilot for real planes
when you are a real pilot you can ask for NOTAM to fly near the airport even if it's a drone and you don't need drone licenses
Used to be 5 miles as the crow flies when I was first trying to figure out where to fly the thing long before the FAA came down with registration requirements
FAA has notam as well anyway and real pilots could always fly drone even in restricted airspaces
since they can with bigger planes 😄
I mean with the price of graphics cards and how hardcore flying sim joysticks have become
It's almost less expensive to pass a VFR pilot license 🤣
I'm not saying I couldn't become a real pilot
Just that I wouldn't be allowed
I've been doing flight simulators since I was like 12
I took an introductory flight before but nothing more serious
the 1st hour is basic theory so you can save your instructor life if needed so they take it seriously
I'm considering setting up a multi monitor battle station with a full blown cockpit button panel and stick for playing KSP
Didn't have the courage to try to land because I always crashed while landing in flight simulator
Also took a lot of fitness because you have to keep hitting pedals on the cessna to keep things straight
Landing takes a lot of practice even in simulations
But apparently it's something I learned pretty well
One time when I was visiting Kennedy space center with my family my dad tried the shuttle landing simulator and crashed like 5 times and I asked for a turn and nailed it on the first try
they had me do a level flight and an easy turn and practice "flight management" a bit by roleplaying my instructor as the tower and checking maps while flying