#general-chat
1 messages · Page 29 of 1
Cut to a scene of someone frantically soldering parts to Pi 3 A+ boards
... 96, it is confused
I suspect invalid orders are getting rejected and the stock being returned to available status.
This must be it
Tbh, if you need a board for computer vision I highly recommend the openmv camera board over the pi 3 a+
pshhh, boring explanation
It's basically a pi zero 2
93 :O
I've been doing a lot of computer vision as of late and once you understand the openmv it is so much more convenient
Ultra High Speed Pick and Place Machine
=========== Vertex Technologies ===========
Curta Nossa Pagina e Mantenha-se atualizado!!!
Vertex - https://www.facebook.com/vertexpcb/
Visite nosso Site: http://www.vertex.eco.br
I've been thinking about doing computer vision on my car and tracking license plates I pass, wondering how often I actually see the same vehicles in the same area...
You can do that with Openmv
If you have any questions feel free to ping me or something. I don't work for openmv or anything I just want to grow their community
Are pi3s in shortage now
Good idea
That's why I switched
All Pis have been short on supply
I've been using pis for computer vision but I can't reliably order 10+ of them anymore
You could probably log position data and approximate the routes of other cars
I wonder if OpenMV runs on ESP32-CAM
I'd probably go further and see if you record the data of the drivers and establish a database
I don't think so unfortunately
I would love if it ran the new esp32-cams3
but it doesn't
The OpenMV board looks good, but I think I might go with a PC and USB cameras... I have tons of webcams XD
So would you multiplex those webcams
If you want something small then get a google coral dev board
They are in stock and they should support usb cameras
I might build a PC frame in my trunk and just use a full size GPU, lol
Hmm, I have a Jetson with a Coral TPU board, maybe that would work
That would work 100% but not with openmv just use opencv at that point
I wonder how Coral compares to GPUs...
Much more capable
It's only for inferencing
Opencv is an amazing library
76 of the 3 A+ left
I'm tempted to buy one of the 3 A+ but I think I'll let people who have a greater need buy them.
I have a project in mind that could use one, but I've got a couple of the 3B on hand anyway
74!
73... is there an API to check Adafruit stock? I was thinking about having a Pi stock board that updates in real time, lol
69
they're flying now
I ordered one last week
67
Got tired of waiting for CM4 and not being fast enough for a Pi 4 :/
My last purchase of one was August 24, 2021
I buy a lot of stuff sporadically XD
66... I've been finding a lot of batteries
65 more people to be made happy
Wait, is Women's History Month this month or next month?
Wait it's March
this month
nevermind
Yea
brain fuzz
I forgot it was no longer February and was like "wait, are we overlapping?"
lol
did you get the uconsole from clockworkpi?
ya feb only had 28 days
Unless it has 29 XD
that only happens like 25% of the time
I wasn’t doing anything like that 🤔
Possibly thinking of someone else
I wonder what the time limit is for "1 per" -- a week? 2? a month?
I’ve definitely wondered
Perhaps it’s a rolling window
I’m gonna put a back order for a CM4 with mouser and just wait for it to eventually arrive
In my experience, most places do "[timeframe] since last purchase", but some do "1 per resets at the end of [week/month]
At the window...
Okay, backordered 3 of the $30 CM4 from mouser
Estimated lead: end of September
🥲
Mehbeh
The 3A+ are less scalpable so they definitely last longer
mmm... they are much less flexible
But great for octoprint 🙂
mhmmm
I’m planning on pulling my 3B+ that I have octoprint on and moving it to my 3A+ coming today
I have 3B+ on a few printers, probably will move to 3A+ too
Then using the 3B+ for a test jig for FPGA boards
18 left!
Estimated ship date updated: October 2nd
17... the night draws near
I opted for all three to ship together
Hopefully they'll ship sooner than expected
I need to finish my carrier board
It has a USB hub, an RP2040 connected to 40 pin headers, a nice juicy 5V supply
noice
FirePi
Smol chip, big power
hehe
The USB hub chip is $10 a piece though 🥲
out of stock
It’s a 1-4 hub
USB 3+?
Lol 😂
Free money 
Cheap USB hubs scare me
Lol
I've never had an issue with them getting hot
Mine has an aluminum enclosure so it probably feels hot because it’s wicking it away
I think it's probably the powered ones
Powered ones always get toasty
JDDZ, great brand
oh I have a similar one but it's by anker
Hey guys, is PT (seen "him" I guess mentioned many times)... Is that Mr LadyAda?
Right ? Lol
Yea
yes
My KAKDSOIP hub gets warm when charging my MacBook Pros
Hand warmer 
Thanks. I love both of them (LadyAda too) and been doing my best to keep the baby fed and happy. My poor credit card.
I just never use the hub to charge my macbook tbh
It's just so convenient
KAKDSOIP, such a well renowned brand
I just use it for usb-a suff
Indeed
I have two hubs
I have this one actually https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/7186FdwqISL._AC_SX679_.jpg
I have one like that
But I only use it for usba stuff
There are only a handful of actual hub brands, just white labels XD
pretty much
White Label stuff is so prolific on amazon
I have 3 identical ones with different Amazon WIGUEPM names
My favorite part is getting the email 5 minutes after it’s been delivered asking how I like it
Thanks to Secretlab for sponsoring today's video! Check them out at https://lmg.gg/SecretLabTQ
So many brands on Amazon have hard-to-read names that you've never heard of. What's the story behind them, and why have they proliferated?
Leave a reply with your requests for future episodes.
► GET MERCH: https://lttstore.com
► COME TO LTX 2023: ht...
I just cut myself on a piece of pizza
The crust is very crisp
lol
Pretty sure, it has cheese and sauce
Sure seems like pizza, huh
Greasy and crunchy XD
Y'know, I just realized... you could say this slice is a... pizza cutter
hehehehe
I tell ya, I wish I had a rich uncle
Or a rich grandpa I could just be like “hi, you love me and I need help” lol
My family tree unfortunately grows along the wrong side of the river
nice
Until my cousins and aunts/uncles stopped appreciating it
oof...
My parents always told us not to expect it; that if it came to be thankful
I grew up as a military brat so we didn’t have a ton of money
I grew up being unsure how long we'd be surviving on leftovers
But now I have bad spending habits that o learned from my parents 😬
The, we have some money let’s go spend it on fun stuff
CUPCAKE TIME
But I’m definitely much better about it than I used to be now that I know what it looks like.
I'm trying to save up
I'm trying to do investments and set money in savings
We spent our tax return on paying off a tax debt from NC thanks the the company I work for not filing NC taxes for me 🫠
And then spent $600 for a day at Lego land for my kids, and put $500 in a separate account to pay for those hotels and gas.
We’ll probably spend a little bit on a credit card to cover the rest but it’s mostly paid for
I want to save up to buy a house
By my current calculations, I'll be able to afford a small home in about 2873 for a smol $8.4 trillion
Hehe.. same
Yeah, houses seem to be increasing in price faster than you can save...
Also inflation, weeee.... oh wait, no, we're just lazy and not working hard enough
If I contribute to my 401(k) for another 10 years I can borrow against it and buy a 2 bed house
2 bed house... a bunk bed with a tent over it
Fancy
If it rains hard enough, it becomes water front property
Super fancy
And if it floods, boom I have a boat

My crazy aunt had the brilliant idea to buy an old trailer house up in the mountains on about an acre of land for $10k, and then put another like $10k into renovating it... So she has no mortgage or rent, barely any property taxes, smol utilities... suddenly my crazy aunt doesn't seem so crazy
Honestly, that’s a pretty smart idea
Especially if you’re by yourself
Exactly. I mean, she’s still crazy, but that was legit genius
And she said she’d have it go to me if anything happens to her, so… that’s an asset. Altho my cousin/her son who’s living with her now would continue living there
Win-ish?
Actually in the countryside you can get some cheap broken houses
But to renew them, legally, you might spent kidneys, thanks to the long category of professional lobbist leechers
Uh sorta ninjed
A robot haiku about LadyAda: Her mind, a spark bright, Limor Fried, queen of circuits, Adafruit's founder.
I finally got MQTT working on the openmv!!!
Woah 3A is more compact than I remembered
Yeah, I thought they were bigger for some reason
The dual header makes sense when you've got so many outputs that you need the entirety of the other 3 sides.
quick question, I have seen videos where people encode a NFC tag with a phone... So why would I want a PN532 NFC/RFID controller breakout board to program the Micro NFC/RFID Transponder - NTAG203 13.56MHz
Is it for those who dont have phones with this capability?
TY <3
I didn't know phones could program rfid tags. Read yes, write? didn't know that.
this is in regards to iphone newer than gen 7
The PN532 is useful when you want to work with NFC tags with microcontrollers and the like
I think Android phones can write to NTAGs, if you can write to NTAGs with iOS at all it's probably pretty limited
And iOS only reads "records" from NTAGs, not arbitrary data. AFAIK you can't read an amiibo, for example, with iOS
All I would want to do for the time being is putting a https address on it.
I thought most tag encoders could work with multiple different tags, it's kind of a specialty piece of equipment. Allowing people to write NFC from their phones is dangerous and a bad idea to release into the public space as an app. I could see that being easily abused.
@late fulcrum What functionality is provided when a NFC has a microcontroller?
You could probably do it using an Android phone, though you may have to write an app to do it unless there's something generic. PN532 can do it for sure
@ebon dew I believe once you encode data on a NFC you can then also lock the NFC from being changed?
I suppose most NFC's that make it to the commercial space are not rewritable though, right?
ah ok that makes it a little better. so the DIY route is a little more use at your own risk.
You can, yes- this is what Nintendo does with some of the memory on amiibos
Most NTAGs are rewritable unless you flip certain bits to make various pages not writable
You can also read those bits to determine if the pages are writable
I can see it for car key transponders but building it into a video game console to prevent piracy is just ughh more proprietary closed ecosystem shennigans.
gotta weigh the good with the bad for proprietary stuff
Whatever you want, basically. For example, you could make an NFC controlled entry system, where the PN532 sends the NFC data to a microcontroller that looks up the data in a table, and if it's there, it actuates a solenoid to unlock the door.
ahhh okay and im guessing the PN532 has a microcontroller?
No, the PN532 is a peripheral. You can hook it to a microcontroller so that the microcontroller and read and write NFC tags
any idea if there is a feather with microcontrollers? Also ty so much for everyone that has assisted with answers so far <3
A Feather is a microcontroller
ahh okay. I wonder why they didnt use one for the demo on their website
Usually when displayed with a microcontroller that's the one they recommend using with it. Some images might be a little old depending on the product ID#.
lol product id is 364 hahaha so super old im guessing
The product # kind of helps to date when something was released by Adafruit as their numbering scheme is purely sequential.
Doesn't mean it doesn't work, it's just from a different time frame and could likely be used with newer microcontrollers like the feather without issue as they all use the same protocols... however Arduino's were 5V logic level then and Feathers are 3.3V, keep that in mind.
That picture shows an Arduino, which is also a microcontroller
@ebon dew ahh oaky good to know. This is on their page
"The PN532 is also very flexible, you can use 3.3V TTL UART at any baud rate, I2C or SPI to communicate with it. This chip is also strongly supported by libnfc, simply plug in an FTDI cable and use the FTDI serial port device to communicate - this lets you do NFC dev using any Linux/Mac/Windows computer! We also include onboard power LED, 3.3V regulator and an FTDI header so you can plug in an FTDI friend or FTDI cable and use with libnfc."
Yup then you can definitely use it with any feather that has UART capability which is most if not all of them but I can't say for absolute certainty every feather has easy to access UART.
Well it looks like I am going to get the PN532 so I can have it for a future project with a feather. TY so much everyone!!!
Check the pinout diagrams for any feather you look at and ensure it has the features you want.
If you prefer the Arduino pin layout there's a new Metro M7 being released this week. 500mhz 😉
ugg I am such a hardware newb. I know a little bit but not a lot. I am more of a coder. @ebon dew If you have a moment do you mind if I hop in general chat so it can be faster to communicate and maybe help me figure out what microcontroller / feather might be best for me?
You can run Arduino or Circuit Python on most feathers by the way. The language you choose to work with isn't necessarily related to the form factor.
Sure just layout what you need here. Something like that is good to do in general so others can chime in with suggestions too. What I might recommended might be different from what someone else recommends.
but as for like pinouts and UART and all that I have no idea how that all correlates. I know about positive and negative and ground pins.
Since the Arduino Uno, microcontrollers have become hundreds of times faster. If you want to work with TTL though you don't necessarily need the latest and greatest board.
Did you know you can UART an iphone
I have an elegoo uno R3 that I used for school to blink lights and change sequences based on if a button was pushed but that was like 3 years ago and I have forgotten pretty much all of that stuff.
Would the New arduino you mentioned have any features that the feathers may be missing?
You can connect a USB-serial converter to most modern phones
didn't know that, neat.
Last time I used a TTL was on an Uno and that was probably 5 years ago, it's been a while.
Shortly after the whole CH FTDI driver debacle.
what debacle?
Bricking knockoffs I think
about 7-8 years ago now, sounds about right.
I think it was mostly aimed at the fake Arduino Nano's that were flooding the market.
It kinda threw everything using FTDI stuff into a tailspin.
That's when board makers decided to find a native USB solution instead and it was kind of the first big step in a really neat journey for all microcontrollers. A catalyst.
for the best
Absolutely.
jesus that would be nuts and irk me if one of my devices got bricked. Like how am I supposed to verify I didnt get a knock off chip. So I guess that eliminates TTL? Also idk what TTL stands for but I am assuming it is used to communicate between devices?
Gotta understand the brief history lesson before deciding to jump into getting a device that might depend on FTDI drivers.
ya I have no idea on any of this stuff
TTL stands for transistor-transistor logic, which is actually fairly obsolete. Even the Arduino uses more modern CMOS. But it's often used as shorthand for 5V logic or even digital logic in general (even 3.3V). It's also used as a (confusing) shorthand for asynchronous serial communication using logic level (as opposed to RS-232 levels).
Because you might be tempted to get a cheap microcontroller which has one of those fake FTDI chips, they still exist, they're still out there.
Some people also refer to UART, which stands for "universal asynchronous receiver/transmitter", which is the hardware that is used to communicate using an asynchronous serial data stream.
ill pass on the fake stuff if I know its fake. I value privacy / security and that is completely out with window with knock offs IMO
one of the nice things about Adafruit is you know what you're getting, from a reputable electronics company, that will support you if you have an issue.
so it looks like th PN532 can use 3.3 UART, I2C and SPI. Mind breaking down the differences?
it also comes with a 4050 level shifter chip which I dont know what would be used for or even does
They're all serial protocols. UART is a misnomer for asynchronous serial. I2C is a synchronous serial protocol that also uses 2 wires, with pull-up resistors. SPI is another synchronous serial protocol that uses 3 wires and is much faster.
some programmers at the time were 5v only, from a time when 5v logic was more prevalent, so you have to read the fine print. i've never used that board or that logic shifter. it's probably a 5v to 3.3v logic shifter.
Since it's 3.3v logic it was actually very forward thinking, we have the luxury of hindsight today though.
have any of you used LoRa?
Yep, it's pretty cool.
So I just need to get 2 of the same LoRa feathers and they can communicate with each other? So say I had one Lora with another sensor for time of flight and then 2nd Lora would have a screen.
If the first LoRa distance sensor got tripped it could send a message to the 2nd LoRa and result in the screen displaying text or something?
Yep, the basic protocol is all peer-to-peer, so if they are on the same channel they can talk directly.
sweet. I would love to make a sorta security system using LoRa. Do you have any recommendations for which would be best for improving the distance?
I dont think I would need to transfer a lot of data, so I want to optimize distance because it would used at a camping festival. Basically it would guard my tent and if a sensor was tripped I would be notified. Cell phone signal is usually crap due to the amount of people clogging up the towers so I thought this would would better as it is radio?
LoRa has a number of config parameters that let you trade off speed for distance, so if you're not sending much data you can crank those up. Beyond that, the choice of antenna can matter too.
@crystal ore I see there is a 433MHz and a 915MHz LoRa. I am assuming both can transmit the same distance but the 915 does so faster??? Why would anyone want to 433?
433 will give better distance than 915
Gotcha 433 it is then!
Also depends on your countries laws of the open frequencies.
433 is meant for Europe as there are some restrictions for that band in the US.
915 is meant for USA
generally speaking
I'm using LORA right now actually to transmit message back and forth. You can actually send full paragraphs of ascii text with them. They're not limited to 1's and 0's.
gotcha, I see some product labeled radiofruit that is not LoRa? I am assuming those dont have as much range as LoRa?
Also technically the RFM69 & RFM95 aren't LORA as I think LORA is a standard. You can use it with LORA but you're not forced to.
LORA is better though correct?
depends on what you want to do, a DIY security system just for you is probably not something you want to put on the LORA network unless you want remote monitoring of it.
I haven't actually used any LORA network yet. Just short range RFM95 stuff.
I think the RFM95/96 are the LoRa capable ones, the RFM69 doesn't support that modulation scheme
And yes, LoRa stands for "long range" and uses clever modulation to achieve longer distance connectivity.
No I just want basically if then statement to execute.
If perimeter = broken
Then send message
2nd device listening
message received
perimeter = broken
then light up screen
ya I see Adafruit LoRa Radio FeatherWing - RFM95W 433 MHz - RadioFruit
if you're in the US go with the 915mhz, just ensures you're not going to have the FCC knocking on your door.
Yeah, those LoRa feathers are handy
depends how far you want to send the message, line of sight is a factor, you need good line of sight. there is only very basic scattering in there.
so hypothetically a user was in the US how would they even be able to find them if the device was not on all the time? Do you have to register the LORA?
oof there would definitely be trees and other things in the way just no solid buildings.
I just use them point to point, so I didn't need to register it.
maybe I miss understood how LORA works. I didnt know there was some network. I thought it would just basically be like a radio screaming out to its partner with an encrypted message
you can create your own local network using as many devices as you want. you need a minimum of 2 transceivers. technically just the 2 is a local network.
but you can add as many nodes into the mix as you want
LORA is not encrypted, it has CRC but no encryption. if you want encryption you must build that yourself. at least with the adafruit circuit python library anyway.
you have nodes and specify the node to communicate with but it's still all open air communication.
great for mailboxes and stuff like that, the thing you're trying to do is right in line with its intended purpose which is basically anything YOU want it to do.
You can always use MQTT instead if you have wifi access
I think the case mentioned earlier would be point to point. Going from camp, to on person.
No wifi possible.
AP?
I see RFM95CW 915MHz LoRa Module says this
These packet radios are simpler than WiFi or BLE, you dont have to associate, pair, scan, or worry about connections. All you do is send data whenever you like, and any other modules tuned to that same frequency (and, with the same encryption key) will receive. The receiver can then send a reply back. The modules do packetization, error correction and can also auto-retransmit so its not like you have worry about everything but less power is wasted on maintaining a link or pairing.
access point but I want to know how far you are trying to do
I've used LoRa for many years for many things
Not sure on how far it would need to go but my guess would be max 5 miles or 8 kilometers
Lora should be able to do that but I'd recommend you mount it higher up on a tree or something so you get a longer los
And if you want to make it even longer you can use a directional receiver antenna
They basically enable you to receiver from longer distances but only allow for a small area of basically where the antenna is pointing
ya sounds like that would be best. Any idea how I could get a signal say from ground level or inside a tent to then jump to the LoRa ontop of tent or tall poll? Or would that just need like 3 units to then jump from one to the next?
I would recommend an antenna bigger than the one that adafruit sells for that range
I've only used it a few times and have yet to get something into full time usage, getting close though.
Sounds like landshark is the right person to ask. That's great stuff.
def use a directional antenna
you can make a relay node pretty easily tbh basically just code it to send out whatever it receives
I probably have relay code setting around my computer somewhere if you need it
Oh I was going to try to depend on just the small antenna that comes with it. Any idea on the effective range of that?
are there any specific products that you think would be best for ensuring signal can travel the distance?
so many different Lora modules and non Lora modules to choose from.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3340 this is the antenna i'm using
I've tested it around an apartment complex but it's probably less than 2k ft
this is probably better than what I used
I want to strap this to it lmfao
That's how you'd get like 16mi tbh
But those are a few hundred dollars vs like 3-4 nodes
that's one heck of a nice antenna.
I was using this https://www.adafruit.com/product/1859
looks like I just found that antenna for 69 23
Those got like 1300ft for me
wish i would have gotten that one because trying to stuff that long antenna into a mailbox is awkward.
ya for that distance it would be over kill
might end up drilling a hole out of the back and externally mount the antenna.
@keen arrow any Lora feathers you would suggest ?
or just put your stuff in a waterproof container on the mailbox
1200 to 2000 ft is a respectable distance for a basic antenna especially for all the things you could use it for.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3231 this wing if you already have a feather
I have zero products so far
if you're looking for something more advanced there's some LORA stuff on Tindie (electronics marketplace).
and Lectronz
one second
I think Arturo has some really neat lora stuff. He built one with a blackberry keypad to use as a messenger. Think he might have discontinued those specific ones though.
oh cool I had no idea about those places
I actually made something similar too
How is the tactile feedback on those blackberry keypads
I usually stick with Adafruit products because the support is excellent. They have diagrams, schematics, tutorials, and most importantly libraries. There are disadvantages to going with a custom board from an independent maker. However you are supporting potentially the next big maker in the space so it's always good to keep your options open.
The node on the left just relays it
is Arturo a person or website?
@spark egret he's a person
That is very similar yes. Arturo build a PCB with the lora antenna, display, and blackberry keypad all in one. Good thing is it's simple to hit the ground running, bad thing is no modularity. That's a design decision though which is never easy.
@spark egret look up solderparty
yup that's him. i'm more familiar with his name now than the company.
But he doesn't have any lora specific stuff
Is he the one that came up with the stamp idea to use the pins to hold the castellated pads?
Really neat idea.
I would highly suggest you just start with adafruit stuff so you can experiment
SolderParty does have their own discord with good support too.
can't say that about every company though
The support is really only for arduino
darn that looks sick but also more functionality that I need and could cause errors
yeah start simple, get some experience first
just coding the sensors to do what you want isn't exactly a trivial experience either if you haven't touched any microcontrollers for a while.
so it looks like jumping back to a lora feather.
Ya that's why I think you should get this https://www.adafruit.com/product/3178
Get two of those
maybe 3 if you can afford it
Lady Ada recently teased an RP2040 LORA feather. Will probably be coming out this month or next month.
and these https://www.adafruit.com/product/3340
what is special about RP2040 LORA?
space inside is bigger
Different manufacturer. Atmel makes the M0 and Raspberry Pi makes the RP2040.
It doesn't run raspbian or anything like that it's just a really solid MCU.
M0 has 256K of flash storage
SAMD's are hard to get so it's more of a point of availability and widespread adoption.
No idea how much RAM the RP2040 will have if it's external, generally in the MB's range instead of KB's.
so a 2040 Lora would have more ease of use and functionality than the M0?
RP2040 has 8 MB SPI FLASH
is that built in or an external flash?
that would be nice for lots of logic, the memory increase that is.
@ebon dew external I believe
i always get SPI and QSPI mixed up for which is internal/external.
What is SAMD's
@spark egret the m0 chip
SAMD is the chip family from Atmel, the Arduino Uno is an Atmel chip
But the biggest difference that you will see is that you can do things like have an LCD screen or oled screen with something like an M4 or RP2040 so if you want one in the future
SAMD's are a bit on the low end by today's standards, since the new ESP32-S2's from Espressif came out and the RP2040's and Pico W's.
ahh okay. Well it is sounding like the rp2040 lora is going to be a giant leap in improvement and I should hold off on that one.
Also, keep in mind that these boards generally have no wifi or ble
ya I would probably want to rip those off and trash them.
Honestly it should be a nice improvement but there's nothing wrong with the M0 for your purposes. Right tool for the right job and the M0 is more than capable for your purposes.
I just want to make sure you know the limitation first before you buy it.
I wish I did lol
What limitations have you found
I don't think the RP2040 LORA will have wifi either. If you want wifi you'll need to get an Airlift Featherwing. I have a bunch of airlifts, they work great on practically any feather.
screen thing? I see they currently have one with an oled
It can't use an LCD
aka TFT
because for those it uses a frame buffer
nope no wifi or BLE. If a device does not need a feature then do not include it. Just another attack vector or source of errors.
not if you don't connect anything to it
which is the SAMD51 but the SAMD21 & 51 are in the same boat for availability, chip shortage.
I'm pretty positive that an esp32 with no ssid is just as good as having nothing
if that makes sense
These boards aren't constantly online like your computer or server
Yup, they typically have one job.
I just like the power of the esp32 (240mhz) and the storage is nice too
just because you dont connect to it doesnt prevent others from connecting to it. Again not trying to go on a mini rant. Its just dont have a need or want for those features and by not having them it also lowers the cost. So win win in my books to exclude wifi and BLE from lora
but it'll likely be overpowered for a simple lora tx
So just get the m0 lora feather. It does everything you need
But do know that lora is open and can theoretically receive anything transmitted over the lora band
yup, and you can add the rp2040 lora nodes later too. they'll be compatible as long as you choose one for the same frequency you use. 😉
by getting the M0 you'll get a head start on learning LORA by the time the RP2040's come out.
ya I meant I am not going to be sending any sensitive information. I could also just garble the message and have it be decoded on the receiver lol.
well i should really say RFM95 instead of lora but the terms are used so interchangeably.
think the M0 might be discounted when the 2040 comes out?
adding basic substitution encryption is very easy. i don't think there's a library for it but the ideas on simple encryptions are easy enough for anyone to do.
I wouldn't count on it. Adafruit doesn't usually drop prices on things just because a new model comes out. A tool is a tool. As we've shown the M0 is still more than adequate and in some cases might still be way overkill for your purpose. That doesn't make it less valuable just because a new model comes out.
agreed and understood. I am just new to ada and not sure how they operate is all.
The way Adafruit does pricing is a little different than most. It helps fend off the obsolescence. Because they're the people that design the thing they want the thing to be as useful for as long as possible.
You'll get discounts in bulk and there's always a limited time 10% off coupon to be had if you regularly watch their Youtube videos.
Since I got messaging working on my RFM's I've been having a lot of fun watching them blast messages back and forth to each other.
They're a lot of fun to play with and super easy to code. The basic RFM demo code works very well right out of the box.
How do I find out what SAMD chips the arduino core supports?
@keen arrow @ebon dew looks like 433 is allowed.
How is mcmaster carr selling 4mm-4mm shaft couplers for $150?!!?!?!?!
I'm going insane
it's not general purpose in the US
(a) Operation under the provisions of this section is restricted to devices that use radio frequency energy to identify the contents of commercial shipping containers. Operations must be limited to commercial and industrial areas such as ports, rail terminals and warehouses. Two-way operation is permitted to interrogate and to load data into devices. Devices operated pursuant to the provisions of this section shall not be used for voice communications.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/293639/north-american-regulations-on-433mhz-radio#:~:text=Well%2C 433 MHz is in,more powerfil than those modules this says you can technically but there may be a lot of interference
There is a lot of regulations around this so it just seems safer to use the 915mhz band
look up spiral cut couplers
@ebon dew where did you see the tease of the rp2040 lora? I see they have them as individual units but not combined just yet
It was on the last desk of ladyada I believe
@tardy badger sorry im a newb here, what is "last desk"? Is that some live stream video or something she does?
Starts at 1:03:44 here. https://www.youtube.com/live/MQ3SK8U-t6Y?feature=share
ASK AN ENGINEER 3/1/2023 LIVE!Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com-----------------------------------------LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adaf...
Desk of LadyAda is a Sunday live show that Ladyada does at random hacker hours
Usually around or after 9pm eastern time
Starts at 6:20 in the video. https://www.youtube.com/live/MJDYLaLlHQ0?feature=share
This week we worked on the Metro M7 (https://www.adafruit.com/product/4950) tester, it's working well and performs both ESP32 and iMX programming over USB. W...
sweet stuff thanks for the link!
Also ty again for all the Q&A earlier, I learned a lot <3
👍 Welcome. You’ll find plenty of helpful people here for almost anything electronic related from Cube satellite’s and programming to 3D printing and PCB design. This place is pretty amazing.
good capture dragon to spacestation
I hope my rocket launch is successful when it happens
Mouser this morning: “just letting you know the timeframe on those CM4 is still October 2nd”
lol, quick updates
But you must... sadly it won't come early
I just need to have fun, time flies when you’re having fun
I love when you need to work overtime but the work is pretty light so you’re trying to figure out ways to make it last and be productive lol
reduces typing speed from 90WPM to 45WPM
More like.. 15WPM 💀
can someone help me with this? so i would like to maybe see if its possible and safe to solder on the lipo directly to this feather? reason is, my spave is really tight and this connector adds more width than i can have. and it will bend it quite bad at a 90 going down. i would have to really bend it down to make it fit
i wished it was facing this way somehow
The BAT pin can be soldered to.
Red to BAT black to GND pin
sorry im new to ada stuff. could you link or tell me what i neeed
Look on your board, do you see a hole labeled BAT?
The red wire of the battery can be soldered there
AH! yes!
The black wire would be soldered to the hole marked GND
dude thank you!
so my next and final quetion. how long or where could i possible get a estimate on how long this will last on a 400mah batt?
the ada fruit one
i could test it by leaving it on and seeing, but maybe there is a calc or something
That’s going to depend on how long the screen is on, what other things on the board are running, if you’re using deep sleep, etc..
it will be just a meme scrolling, nothing too too fancy. if it sleeps the only way to wake up is button presses>
?
The ESP32 can get down to uA sleep current, so it’s possible to get 20 or more hours out of it
You can set it to restart every so many seconds
Like every 60 seconds
ah man thank you so much! sorry im asking very noob stuff
Everyone starts from somewhere 🙂
thank you. last one i promise while i have some folks here active
could use this to solder on a pig tail, instead of soldering battery directly:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3814
thank you! yes getting some now
Good suggestion so you can change out the battery
this is very useful because eventually it is aproduct i want to make
hency why my footprint i want it small
so the buttons. front ones, they are tiny. i guess i would have to engineer something to press those say if i have a cover over it. the material is too thick, so i would need like a pin to push a button, any solution other than DIY to make thos buttons better?
I made inset buttons that I 3D printed
oh man! what is this> i want to make is as small as possible with a screen
ah! ok. i hav ea cnc so ill can make small buttons to match maybe. they would be small
this is beautiful! ill see what little buttons i can make. i was thinking a mag lid, and to pop the cover off. but this is great
One finger taking a sip of coffee between each keystroke???
Exactly
I can type 20-25WPM with one hand XD
Lol
Is there a neopixel library online I can look at
I wanna try out others codes and edit them for my project
Making sure things are usable is hard work 😅
Currently trying to get an unstable build of IceStudio with the IcyBlue feather in it. It’s a process, that’s for sure
why would you intentionally want an unstable build?
i call it unstable because it's not part of an offical release
mostly trying to test to make sure it works
as long as it has some new feature you need and doesn't fry the fpga 🙂
Also check this
@lost geode Post in show and tell https://discord.com/channels/327254708534116352/334905778857050125
Amazing build so far. Georgeous!
Ah okeh
They cut all the 10% coupons this week. Even the one from JP's workshop yesterday has already expired. 😦
Guess I'll have to wait until wednesday?
Well I had a sudden need to order a new board.
I usually wait all week and then checkout during JP's ppotw but since they're already expired I'm probably not doing that from now on if they decide to go this route. I'll just wait for wednesdays.
Like.. that cycle used to be very convenient and enjoyable.
Is making a security key or buying one better
I was able to assemble a U2F token myself, but then realized I needed to run a DOS-only program to initialize it. So it sits in a box, unused.
I found a software named opensk that flashes nrf52850
Huh. I hadn't seen any security keys based on that chip. The last time I used a Nordic chip (nRF8001), it too needed a DOS-only program to generate the fuse map, after which I stopped using Nordic chips.
Oh yeah I need a Linux VM for that
You can run DOS apps in a Linux VM?
me: tries to build an example
tools: "we need an old version of readline"
They have a lot of git command and sh files
this https://www.simcom.com/product/SIM800C.html doe not have an integrated mcu right?
SIM800C
Are there costs savings to flashing your own security chip
I would guess it does have its own processor, but they probably don't let you run your own code on it.
Lol… I broke python working properly on my Mac. Time for a clean install.
I've done that. Less often since I started using virtual environments most of the time, but still...
Yeah, I’m getting a weird issue trying to build some examples for the IcyBlue feather.. missing encodings module
I moved things around and I don’t remember how they go back lol
And no Time Machine backup either 😬
Basically all my files are on iCloud so I should be okay. I think
Going to back things up to my NAS as well to be safe
Annoyingly, I've been unable to get my Mac to even see my new NAS
Even mapping a network drive?
Is it like a Buffalo systems one?
outside of oracle, what gives a free vps?
Who doesn't?
DigitalOcean, Google Cloud Platform, IBM cloud, AWS, Linode...
List goes on
I haz free VPS at work. 😛
...sadly, I can't host anything to the outside world on it, but.. ehh.
I might be wrong, but as I see they are mostly credit thing, or limited in some way (like aws after 12 months if I remember correctly?) meanwhile oracle
which I can't use because I think I got flaggered as being a bot
try digitalocean
App platform is free
Nothing makes me feel like a caveman more than hammering some of the pins down before soldering
I'd love to live in a train and have a workshop car, or at the least a workshop van
It doesn't even show up as a host. I did notice that Apple for some bonkers reason downgraded from AFP to SMB for its network drives.
might be because you revealed your knowledge that they leave them active all week
RIP in pieces
Reese’s pieces?
No, they’ll kill me
Peanuts?
Poiiiiison
Allergy poison?
Yiss
Boo, curse your allergies
Indeed
They deprive you of deliciousness
Do you have any issues with some gluten free stuff like things with xantham gum
Nope, I’m good with everything else, aside from a mild lemon and lime allergy
When I worked at a country club, we had to be careful with people who had ground nut allergies because xanthan gum can trigger ground but allergies
Lemon & lime allergies 🤔
Dat typo, tho
Or peas.
They’re closer to peas
They’re legumes
that was MY LINE
Lol
is there a solid ground plane right under the antenna if you mount directly to the board?
There is a ground for the regular Pico’s debug
OH NO I SOLDERED HALF THE RESISTORS BACKWARDS 
yeah that looks like a solid enough ground plane to interfere with the antenna
late at night right now is the only time i can assemble
I like to socket them anyway, for easy re-use/replacement/debugging
same
Same… but LATE late late is how I end up with backwards resistors
9 out of 16 backwards…

Oop… tried to post SpongeBob screaming “soiled it” but the URL had a naughty word… bad GIF maker, bad!
Entirely aesthetics
Thankfully I can salvage by swapping one resistor so half are one way and half are the other way and meet in the middle
Haha fair
Bluuuue
Yesterday I was soldering up a Feather Tripler, and using the unused thru-holes to solder into Feather USB/Gnd to hook up external power. Already had done this OK on another one. So, get done, no power. I'm looking it over and over (I'm stupid) until I saw where I had NOT soldered the wire to the pad that's CONNECTED already thru a trace on the USB pad on Tripler. Duh. That's what I get for hurrying. So soldered across the pads to reach USB in. Works now.
Soldering while hurrying or sleep deprived or both is a recipe for disaster XD
BTW - go to strore. Milk $4.00. Let's see. Do I want milk, or another Pico for $4, that will last me for years??? I'll drink water.
Lucky… milk is $5.15 here
But I agree, I’ll drink water
Still need some milk tho, lol
Yes just a drop or 2 for my morning cereal... then back to programming
Lol. Gotta have it for my Kraft mac’n’cheese
I built a pair of those once!
oh? what's it from?
the glasses are from national treasure
This was such a weird moment in Spongebob. "Soiled it" is not a real idiom, right?
They're pointing to how uncomfortable it is to be in the other end of someone over-apologizing but he's being even weirder
👋 @delicate stream
"Holdings"? Heh heh, nice.
So confession: I can’t solder for crap. What’s the best way to learn to do it “right” ?
try the arduino make an uno or whatever it's called
Basically the best way to do it is to do it
Keep the door open for the future 🙂
I could link as many articles as I can find, but nothing beats practical experience, in my experience.
Once you know the basics of applying heat where you want your solder to flow, the rest is just doing it haha
That’s actually a thing people say
Something like this @worn stump https://store-usa.arduino.cc/collections/new-products/products/make-your-uno-kit
Learn the basics of electronics by assembling manually your Arduino UNO, become familiar with soldering by mounting every single component, and then unleash your creativity with the only kit that becomes a synth! The Arduino Make Your UNO kit is really the best way to learn how to solder. And when you are done, the pac
Practice 40 hours a day. There are inexpensive kits you can get on eBay like this clock that are pretty easy to put together; other random things for like $2-5 each that if you screw it up, it’s not a big loss. SparkFun also sells scrap boards in bulk, you can just practice soldering wires and dead components onto them
I agree but I’m always worried about ruining expensive components. Joining two wires isn’t an issue but mounting things to a board, I just get nervous I’m going to ruin the board. What are some cheaper components to start with?
Check out Amazon
Thank you! This is my issue lol $$$
Same XD the kits are also just fun
@worn stump Search Learn to Solder on Amazon
Oh, yeah, a lot of the solder kits are called “suites”, so searching “solder suite” or something along those lines can give more hits
Oh yeah Emma makes great kits
I want to make kits for people to make
Those are nice. A little pricey for what they are, but nice
Well, small businesses gotta make money 😅
She employs herself and like 2 others?
In California no less
Yeah, understandable, lol. Hard to compete with big companies in China that spit things out
She started it as a side hustle and took the leap in 2021/2022
I did one of those oscilloscope kits but I’m terrified to power it up 😅
Like I’m sure it works great, and I’m confident in my soldering abilities. It just doesn’t specify the power input
And I don’t know where my USB to barrel cable went 🤔
This clock says 5-12v on it, 6-12v in the documentation, lol
https://www.adafruit.com/product/89 things like this are on adafruit
I’m sitting here and had my solder in hand, then put it down to type something… now it’s gone?
Yes that's how it goes
Same thing happens to me lol
Ohhhh adds to cart
It’s gremlins!
heck
Dang Dyno
places tweezers down
1 minute later…
“Where the heck did they go???”
I can't post another link yet
FOUND IT
Adafruit product 184
A tissue tried eating it on the floor
124 too
This is the good stuff. Easy to do, good practice, and useful
I need to think of a name for my tech stuff, but I don't think we have LLCs here?
1526 if you want to solder like 25 transistors
You probably have Limited Partnerships as a similar structure
This is in my wishlist
I’ll get it eventually
You can do SP @tardy badger
I see my name in that link 👀
I technically have an SP
I know, I saw it and thought you were watching me 
I love this!
Mind gremlins! They steal your thoughts, concentration, and good moods
@worn stump Look at this too if you are willing to spend a bit more https://www.adafruit.com/product/1526
The components can be easily replaced if you mess up
Also, I HIGHLY recommend solder wick
Proprietary Limited Company over here, apparently
Where is here?
Something like that
Australia!
Generally every country has something along the lines of an LLC
I’m surprised it isn’t a CLL
h e y
Messing with a 555 is on my wishlist which is infinite ofc 🤣
Ya every country has a scheme for preventing yourself from going bankrupt due to bad business decisions
*almost
Thank y’all so much!!!
This is my favorite thing about discords. Google is a firehose. I prefer qualified concise answers ☺️
My recurring problem is I have 2 pair of reading glasses, medium and strong. Must use both for this hobby/soldering. So lay down 1 or both, and 30 secs later, can't find 'em... Prolly in another room, for crying out loud, that I don't even recall going in there... My work space is nowhere near my wife, good thing, as she can't hear me shout "where's my glasses" all day long.
my wife and i had that issue today since i last used the tweesers
I want to carve out my eyes and replace them electronic eyes already
I have to wear my glasses all the time so I always know where they are hahaha
the thought of that terrifies me tbh, the worst I'd want is a RFID chip in the web of my hand, and my CGM, but other than that I'd kinda prefer wearables instead
I only want electronic eyes if my organic ones die
I want hazel eyes so I can feel what Kelly Clarkson felt all those years ago
Just get colored contacts, lol
Lol… you don’t feel then when they’re in, normally
i used to have purple ones
I wish prescription costume lenses didn’t cost a bajillion dollars and only last a relatively short period
I'm lucky I only need reading glasses haha
But that was... 3.5 years ago? June 2019
I’m effectively blind without correction XD can’t see clearly more than about 5 inches from my face
I'm farsighted, so the opposite
(which makes sense that I'd only need reading glasses)
Lol, lucky
Yeah, I'm really nearsighted too, along with a big helping of astigmatism.
I have no conventional depth perception — I had a “software issue” that kept me from seeing out of my left eye for the most part for ages. It’s still kinda useless, but not as bad XD
Heh, I have the hearing equivalent: "auditory processing disorder", which makes me perceive things out of order.
People keep suggesting I get hearing aids, which are no help for such things.
I recently had an IOL and my close-up work is SO much better afterwards (with work glasses of course)
The Lasik I had in 2011 was monovision, which wrecked my ability to do close work.
But the ability to function across the range of distances was worth it at the time (I was dreadfully nearsighted before)
I currently do that by having several pairs of glasses for different tasks
After the IOL though my overall function was better than after the lasik.
I just use a pair of 1.6x magnification glasses for close work like soldering or painting miniatures.
Ultimately I probably will want to wear glasses with clipped on addons like lights, magnifying glasses, maybe even a HUD if I can build it
I found an eye doctor I like, who said "I'll just hang this card on this beam, you move it to each distance you want to have, and I'll write you a prescription for each one". After we were done with that, she remarked "you're very particular about your vision, and I even tried seeing if your preferences were repeatable, and they were, to a degree I rarely come across!"
On the note of glasses, I have too many glasses oml
especially since i get tested every couple of years and the prescription changes every time
My eye doctor suggested I hang on to my old glasses as spares, as my astigmatism doesn't really change much, just the focal length, so my old "craft glasses" are my new reading glasses, and my old reading glasses are my new computer glasses. But yeah, I too have too many.
I also have an astigmatism
Been nearsighted (blind) since I was 10 or 12. One trick (advantage??): if I REALLY have to see something close up, don't use any lenses/glasses at all, and I can count the MOLECULES ha ha from 3 inches away.
Might consider buying one of these and tethering it to your soldering iron. 😄
I do have some magnifiers of various kinds, but I find the custom-made very close-in glasses are more convenient. They have almost no spherical component (my natural focus is very close), but just the cylindrical one to correct for the astigmatism.
I've been wearing these things (off-the-shelf progressives) for a while now. Weirdly, more comfortable than the prescription progressives I got. https://sightlinereaders.com/
Sightline Readers uses an optical quality eyeglass frame, adds the best designed multifocus reading glasses lens, and sells it for a reasonable price. Sightline progressive power multifocal reading glasses: Designer looks, quality and service. Plus free shipping and returns
does anyone have a site where i can buy small button i guess extensions that go over the reverse feather? i need to punch this thru metal, not plastic, and its sorta thick. so extensions of some type will work
I'm not sure what extensions you mean or what you're getting at with "punch through metal".
one sec
my metal top is too thick
so i need to cnc holes for buttuns, but i would like to find like small buttons
You could use ordinary female headers as extensions. How small are you looking for? Maybe an inline switch like this would fit in a groove along a header, but you'd probably want some sort of button positioned on top of it. https://media.digikey.com/photos/E-Switch Photos/TL1107BF130WQ.jpg
i guess there is no solution from adafruit, not sure why they dont make like extensions? because these buttons are tiny
the smaller the better
They do make stuff like this, but perhaps I'm not understanding what you mean by "extensions" https://www.adafruit.com/product/2886
Do you mean like a plastic dowel that makes the button “head” longer?
ok the buttons on top of the reverse feather, are tiny. i need to punch the buttons thru so i can hit the buttons from the top with the lid i posted above. if i cut holes for the buttons, i would have to roll around with a tooth pic to press the buttons on top with lid
this!
I’m not aware of any extensions, but the usual method is to have a larger button piece that sits in your casing and pushes the smaller one-similar to how buttons on a game controller are designed
yes im not sure where to start looking for this
or what they are called
my lid is metal
I’m not sure, maybe search “captive button” or something like that?
Here’s a site that describes how they make them: https://www.spikenzielabs.com/blog/how-we-make-it-floating-captive-buttons/
ok perfect ill take a look, not sure why adafruit wouldnt have this? i know there is so many options for this. but like these buttons are tiny.
I think you’d usually have to design those yourself to fit your case
It’s going to depend on your case thickness and material too; usually the visible “button” is a single piece and not a button + shaft extension
ok this makes sense! thank you!
No prob, excited to see what you come up with for a solution!
thank you!, i might just machine it out ot Titanium, since the case is titanium
Whoa, that’s pretty awesome! Must take a beefy CNC to mill it
Time to do some counting
:D One!
anyone ever find themselves ogling a microcontrollers knowing full well what you have does the job? Im that person whos looking at STM32 stuff thinking "well, maybe its time to switch..."
meanwhile, I now have 3 to 6 pieces of PIC micro's I know I'll use eventually
Conversely "Well, I should expand my horizons and learn how to program in Arduino"
I am a fickle person 👀
FPGA are so fun 🙂
Also peep the prototype from before I decided to add SPI flash
Lol Mickey Mouse clubhouse and my kids in the background lol
@delicate stream lookie 😄
Yes, with all the ESP8266 boards I have. “But the ESP32 and Pico W…”
I was even looking into the ESP32 and the newest Pico! I think we just want something new and shiny
Having lots of I/O is really nice too
It’s so satisfying
Hehe
Weird part of writing the flash is you have to power flush the board afterwards
yup! and it's done with this simple example 🙂 https://github.com/skerr92/ice5lp4k_examples/blob/master/leds/leds.v
just make build && make prog_flash and a quick power flush after uploading and bob's your uncle!
granted, you gotta get the tools setup which takes ~5 minutes
and if you're on a mac you have to go through and tell your security settings that it's okay if they run lol
but it's not terribly hard to get setup
i've got to figure out the steps on windows so I can add those instructions to the repo
People who use a microcontroller for the first time think getting to blink is daunting without good tutorials. Easy is a highly subjective term.
sure, I try to not use "easy"
i try to use "not terribly hard" because it still maintains that there might be some difficulty 🙂
My goal is to figure out all the edge cases so I can have those documented right up front
I’m still convinced that a big reason Arduino succeeded was ease of toolchain setup, so that’s awesome!
removing that barrier was huge for Arduino
just being able to plug in a board and program it made it so much easier to get started
There is a platform for the iCE40 FPGA like what i'm working on that is a visual tool, drag and drop kind of programming. I'm working to get that setup too.
Absolutely. The integrated IDE with bootloader and libraries was far better than most chip manufacturers proprietary software.
It would be nice if Adafruit does some similar someday with libraries, maybe circup integration with the new online editor.
someone mentioned a few weeks ago about that, or something like that for using i2c devices
Oh yeah, especially the Eclipse-based stuff shudder
As my first time ever using a microcontroller i found it to be a really easy experience. The included examples from a drop down was super useful.
just plug in an i2c device, it scans and pulls all the libraries for that device but scanning, checking device ID, and whatnot.
Same- that was my intro as well. The lack of debugger was admittedly rough, but otherwise it was so accessible
Makecode visual tool is pretty easy to use too.
It would be neat to see a visualizer of how code gets executed between files, functions, and libraries.
kind of like a breadcrumb of functions
debuggers are nice because you can step through everything if you want.
drag and drop functions sounds nice
but they admittedly are not intuitive to use for beginners
want something to count the time? drag and drop this datetime function and connect it to your code.py etc..
if someone made a visual application for using them, it would be greatly game changing for people understanding debugging
if done in big enough chunks. yeah some parts of makecode become unintuitive the deeper you go but i suppose that's true of any language you really dive into.
Everything is easy if you’re good at following instructions, have good instructions, and everything goes right :P
true lol
my problem is my brain skips steps
everything is easy if you know what you're doing
Who knows what they’re doing tho
not me
read the first like 6 and my brains like "yeah, I got this" and then an hour later i'm like "why isn't it working"
i got back to step 7 and it all makes sense
LadyAda, PT, maybe 3 other people?
I know what I'm doing now with setting up these examples xD
they're running a huge business too though.
but yesterday, I was like O_O when I broke python from working properly on my mac
Lol
SparcWorks was kind of line that.
I finally upgraded to Ventura 13.2.1, tried one other way and things finally worked hahaha
foamyguy broke his pylint today and had the same kind of reaction lol
he somehow reformatted pylint with itself, apparently it will allow that.
lol
I dont need a RP pico but I want one lol.
They're kind of cheap enough you don't need an excuse, heh heh.
Get a W instead! Wifiiiiii
🥧🐮
ESP32-S3 😄 (I think thats the latest-theres so many!!)
Latest but far from stable yet. If you want stable wifi go with the s2.
And yet again something in my windows has broken, it's a waste of time
And if you want cheap with wifi you have c3, but those aren't exactly 100% stable either.
Dev boards for $1.89
And chips under $1 in reel quantity
I was considering getting a C3, but as it's a mere 32b MCU that doesn't run Linux, I decided against it.
hmmm good to know
I went for the Ox64 instead, so I'm just waiting on development work for the device support I need.
I find that if I have a piece of hardware on hand I'll usually find a project to put it in. I just ordered an Arduino Giga R1 (should be here Monday ..... yea!) and I'm on the email notification list for the Adafruit Metro M7, both use the STM32. I'm excited.
I'm impressed the Giga is available so quickly after being announced.
Check out how this person did the buttons on a Node32. There is a slight bump on both sides of the cutout to depress the button and give the user some tactile feedback as to where to push. Very simple and yet very effective. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4125952
ESP32 Development Board Case
Top and base snaps together. Has routed USB connector to accomodate cables with larger shrouds. Has 2 holes on top for LED visibility, and buttons built into the top of the lid which allows user to press on-board buttons without removing lid.Note that I had previously said this works for a "NodeMCU" board - but it's...
I have no idea what I’d do with one, but it looks cool
Yea, And I thought it would have to ship from Europe but for a US delivery it shipped from New Jersey. And shipping was as low as $1.60.
I bought it the same day it announced.
I have a complete 1.6L supercharged Mini Cooper engine. Bought it as a spare engine for my Mini when it was a race only car. But due to car prices rising and my daughter blowing up her car I had to start daily driving the Mini. So now I have an engine to "play" with. So I was thinking of using the Giga as a replacement for an Arduino Mega in a Speeduino engine management system.
Oh fascinating
The Mini engine is a good candidate to "play" with because it isn't a very complicated engine. No variable timing, single overhead cam, fuel injected ...... all of which means the sensor package is basic, simple spark timing and fuel injector control. My friend Matt and I are getting ready to start building a "replacement" for the Mini Cooper Race Car ... An older Honda Civic. That Civic will be getting a newer, higher performance Japanese import engine. The new engine has dual overhead cams, dual cam profiles on both the intake and exhaust cams and variable cam timing on both cams. And of course fuel injection. The sensor package is a nightmare and trying to adjust the cam profile, timing, fire the plugs and inject the fuel all at the proper time is probably going to require the processing of a Giga, but I think we are going to go with an over the counter solution for the race car.
Howdy y'all
If I were to want to design a footprint that I could SMD a Pico W to, in order to not interfere with the antenna, what would you recommend? I'll probably end up not putting any SWD header stuff down, mostly because I want it to be able to use both, but other than that?
I'd probably either add a keepout area under the antenna, or arrange for the Pico to stick out over the edge of the board.
Probably a keepout/cutout then? Cause I wanna make a macropad (because I just realised the cost would be more effective to make my own as I have the switches, the sockets, the screen, the encoder, and the Pico W already)
Good point, a cutout would work too.
Wow, I didn't know Speeduino existed. Maybe time to dust off the '04 Chrysler and punt its silly cam sensor problems to the curb.
where would you find high speed and torque brushless motor
Old drills probably
Could look up drill motors
i was thinking scooter motor
Probably works too
my goal is i have an old cart like this
this is something i found on donedeal but
its like this and im gonna put a motor onto it
its finna be good
Get a huge battery pack
Rip your arms off accelerating lol
good
its only 12v
Means you need a 150Ah battery for 1h of use
Get a 300-500Ah 12V battery and that’s hours of fun
12V would be easier to power as many batteries are 12V
Just need a protection circuit for over discharge and charging.
Use a speed controller
on ada?
I don’t think they’d have what you need for that power rating
fair
bro something like this would be cool
This is where 48V motors are useful because they require 1/4 the current needed for the same power rating
link a good one
see main issue would be torque and second would be speed
Mophorn 1800W Electric Brushless DC Motor Kit - 48V 4500rpm Brushless Motor with 33A Speed Controller and Throttle Grip Kit for Go Karts E-Bike Electric Throttle Motorcycle Scooter https://a.co/d/10ZyDkM
This isn’t a bad kit, probably would work for what you’re doing
All that’s left is to source a 48V battery?
And charge controller
But yeah
LiFePO4 batteries probably would source enough current
1hrs of continuous use
MAC-BMC P/N 12570-3. Powerful brushless motor with built-in 30A motor speed controller. Designed for electric scooters. Great low-end torque. Requires 5K Ohm potentiometer or Hall-effect throttle to interface with speed control. Great motor for battlebots, hobbyists and experimenters.• No-load Specs: 2480 RPM @ 24.6 VDC, 3A 100 kV•...
The built-in controller is a nice bonus
i need more torque and speed
That's a pricey battery!
LiFePO4 usually are
But they are very safe, so I’m told lol
Much safer than packs of 18650s 🙂
For sure
Maybe something like this? https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/electrical/48v-electric-deck-motor/724P04909.html
It kinda sounds like an electric golf cart or gokart motor is what you need?
prolly
i mean golf cart go kart
i was thinking for 30+ mph and good torque
Well if you are hanging out on this discord server and you have any interest in cars at all, the Speeduino platform is right up your alley!
I use golf carts every day. They are not anywhere near 30 mph. Go kart is a better bet
yea
trebatice 2021 autoslalom
WOAH
A quick web search finds the maker https://www.qsmotor.com/product/3000w-bicycle-motor/
lil too powerful
i feel like the kart would fall apart
The site shows a range of motors in varying torque/speed ranges, from 800W to 16kW
How about electric bike wheels & batteries? Bicycle motors can be pretty beefy, and lots of battery options. I run most of my gadgetry off of 36v bike batteries. Many e-bikes have a governor on the controller to prevent the bike from going faster than 20mph as they would class it as a motor vehicle and not a bicycle and thus need plates, but for areas that don’t have those legal restrictions you can just disable the governor. Grin is my preferred source for e-bike parts, but it’s been a few years since I got parts from them so I won’t promise anything. Endless sphere is another great forum to check out with regards to e-bikes and other sorts of evehicles. https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/all-axle-hub-motor.html
The All Axle motor takes the simplicity and robustness of the direct drive hub motor, and optimizes it for the modern bike platform. This hub is fully compatible with all quick release and thru-axle bike forks, it is over 30% lighter than standard generic hubs of similar power (4kg vs 6kg), and can be used in single side applications too.