#help-with-3dprinting
1 messages · Page 23 of 1
Nope! But I watch the first layer via Octoprint and was able to stop it almost immediately
thats someting
Not as bad as the other day, when I had clipped the filament at the extruder (to fix a tangle), and the camera couldn't see the bed. So it looked like the bowden tube had filament and looked like it was printing.
Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Exploding GIF Animations
Here's how I put together a simple exploding animation in Fusion 360. This helps convey the disassembly of an arcade button for a project build. Project Lear...
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Practically 3D Printing
Multistreaming with https://restream.io/ Episode #178 – Practically 3D Printing #3DPrinting Live https://www.youtube.com/adafruit/live Wire Spoon Carousel ht...
Adafruit Industries posted Wire Spool Carousel // 3D Printing
Store your spools of wire with this 3D printed carousel caddy! Holds up to six mini wire spools and spins! Get your practical 3D printing on with this handy ...
Not really an impressive print, still thought I’d post it since I don’t really have that many projects to print
Just for fun. Multi part, multi color, largish pieces.
Impressive, most impressive...
Tiny guitar model, tried adding 1 layer thick strings but the glue I used was too runny, might dual extrude
Aaand I'm done trying to print tonight. Nothing is sticking to the bed very well. Think it needs cleaning, but I don't know where anything to clean it with is, and it's 11PM anyway
or you need to "dirty" it up with glue stick or hairspray. But yeah, don't let it print unattended.
I use easy-tack respositionable adhesive 7020 from krylon on glass works like a charm printed about 5 things and not even had to replace it. I find usually its just the print head is too high for most filiment not sticking issues.
y’all are weird
I use a sheet of glass with nothing else
I’ve printed kilos without cleaning a sheet or doing anything to it
I had glass, but that was with an extremely mis-mounted nozzle that was ~5mm above where it should have been. So I had to use three sheets (From picture frames). It also didn't fit on the bed, and the clips I needed to use for it were hitting the arm and causing problems. Nothing stuck to it untreated (And unheated, as I still haven't re-connected the bed), but hairspray worked great.
I made a better mount to hit the stock bed, so I could have an easier time leveling. I think there's just residue of stuff on the fakeTak that's preventing good adhesion, so I just need to find something to wipe it down with.
Also going to re-connect the bed, so that should help.
I’ve managed to lose the nozzle on my printer mid-print, lol
quick throw your remote or car keys to find it!
Test-printing this now, just a little random gearbox
Is there some way to just print a 2d sketch out of Fusion 360? I used it to dimention up a sewing pattern since its sooooo easy to dimention a sketch. But now I can't figure out how to print it!
or export it as the right size to an image, pdf, illustrator...
ah! got it. oh that's so awesome.
thanks @uncut ledge !
hmm only has sheet sizes of A4, A3, etc. I'm guessing those are architectural standards... any way to get it to print 1:1 on an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper?
anyone have recommendations for PLA-to-PLA glue?
I've tried simply hotglue and it doesn't seem to work under stress...just pulls apart
have you tried isopropyl alcohol ?
someoene just put out a smoother for .pla based on isopropyl
Do you have a link for that?
If it does work it doesn't work nearly as fast as acatone...
i think it's slow let me find it
Hmm does not seem to work...
i think it's the polysmooth
you could always try friction welding
ahh it's only the plolysmooth material , let me see if i can find your solwent
roger
I haven't tried this myself.
Have you used that @sonic rapids ?
ahh doug beet me
depending on what your doing , you can use cyanoacrylate
I hate the stuff
Discussion thread, no negative comments, just suggestions as to which is best in various use cases.
@crystal parcel not sure if you ever got your answer, but the A0-A4 sheet sizes are ISO standards. When creating your drawing, change "Standard" from ISO to ASME. This has the 8.5'' by 11'' sheet size (Size A).
no problem dude
Where does everyone make their designs in?
Im personally using Autodesk Fusion, but im not too good with it
I use blender and tinker cad
oh that
but it gets too big or too small
it gets huge right?
yeah there is sometihng i read to fix that, let me see if i can find it
Awesome, thanks
also i got my new stepper motor in 😄
i hope i dont have to configure it ;-;
it looks like the exporter wont take scene scale in to accout, so set the scene back to 1 then the scale on the export to the scale that you want it , 1mm = .01
@night kraken are you useing metric mode?
Yes
@night kraken I personally use FreeCAD, but it's very mechanical/engineery in nature. Perfect for what i do, but not so much for many people
@night kraken I use Fusion 360 and am constantly watching videos to do things
Just watched one on constraints that was pretty good
Learn the fundamentals of Sketch Constraints in this deep-dive tutorial by Fusion 360 Evangelist, Taylor Stein (@taylor_stein). ► Get Fusion 360 | http://aut...
The learning curve going from 123D to Fusion360 was surprisingly long, especially with the hotkeys.
cool 😄
😄
nice!
Just installed a new stainless steel 0.4mm nozzle on my cr10s5 😀
whats the lowest priced laser cutter a man with $400 can buy/make
500 is the lowest I've found lately..
Found a makerspace in my town that has one, I'll pay the 30$/month for free cut time
ahh thats too distant for me
did you look up to see if you have a local one ?
20.7 miles
buses don't go this far last time i checked
what about your local library? nome have maker spaces
my town if you get to know it isn't known for having fancy stuff lol
we have a library but its too small for a maker space
yeah makes it hard, you could always try to start a group to get one set up
I'm of the opinion that no library is too small for a maker space, you've just got to get the convincing and the funding though.
the one here in Troy is sorta a CO-op
you live in michigan too?
oh
we have a place called troy here lol
As far as building one goes, I know there are kits for around ~300 USD but I can't think of any names off the top of my head.
Troy is a nearby city, that's right on top of us like an annoying little sister
Or you could design and build one yourself, if you're into that sort of thing (this is what I would do)
I could probably get a small engraving laser and attempt to put it on my 3d printer
The capital Region is weird
Wolfee, you'd be surprised at how many people do that
hmmm
there is the dremel one but thats just a router it think, sorta a baby cnc
If you're up with ordering things from China, here's a cheap generic laser diode laser https://www.aliexpress.com/item/500mw-405NM-focusing-blue-purple-laser-module-laser-engraving-TTL-module-500mw-laser-tube-Laser-module/32562052620.html
I might just have to sketch one up tonight
I'm not sure how logical it would be to put strap a full on CO2 laser on a printer
a baby cnc is not a bad option
I'm thinking my next computer case is gonna be a wooden lazer cut
gosh darn
that case is just asking for a fire with out some fire proof stuff
https://www.reddit.com/r/MPSelectMiniOwners/comments/7lci9b/last_minute_gift_making_for_my_coworkers/ @shy kelp if you're still considering using a printer
i can't find the video now
I'll consider getting the diode and make the printer case out of scratch
no case
whole thing
We test the Carvey, a desktop CNC machine from Inventables. Unlike the X-Carve, this three-axis mill is enclosed for office use and designed for simplicity a...
i'll see if there is a laser equiv
I mean precautions would be taken, but realistically the new processors don't take as much power, so it should be fine
in terms of operating cost significantly
this one is more of a router
in terms of building/obtaining depends on your setup
as it only realy will do flat stuff
$2,499 + SHIPPING O.o
water cutting is fun
but what about the wazer?
WAZER materials and cutting speeds, abrasive usage, and technical specifications.
to bad the glow forge is 4g
Yeah, with your price range I'd stick to building one from scratch ig
yeah
thats what im considering
I have most materials
just uh
need electronics
what would I control it with tho
my prof builds dual layer pcbs with a cnc router
raspberry, arduino?
Arduino + RAMPS could probably work well
hm
motors I assume would be stepper motors
ok I'll be shopping for parts
thanks for yalls help
someone brought up fabool right ?
anytime
good luck @shy kelp
look on reddit at least a few have done it
ok im back with a question
a couple questions
1: where would I get metals
2: what are some good stepper motors for a x and y axis
nvm I got some metal advice some place else
okay
no probs i guess
haha
I am still wondering now
wondering what?
what kinda mettle
im just getting off of andymart.com
yeah i was thinking aluminum
all kinds of non deposit cans, hit up a street on cycle day, then build a quick and dirty forge and for the love of god and anything holy have proper fire safety and insurence
I'll probably do it in my drive way that I never use
well nobody
till the summer months and my parents throw parties atleast
look it to all the safety stuff , some dude burned down an entire street recently here
as long as you follow precautions you are good and it's easy
its not too rare for fires to happen along my road because its dry as a desert out here during the summer times
then one little spark can cause our road to burst into flames
ahh so you will have to build a circle of death/saftey
yeah haha
aluminum has a low melting point, and it's easy to get
/\
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g this is tutorial I used for making a forge, except added a force flow air intake
How to make a simple backyard foundry for less than $20, for melting pop cans, and casting aluminum. [✓] Clay Graphite Crucible: http://amzn.to/2bZ2ESu [✓] S...
@abstract brook There's an update to that to turn it into propane powered.
I've had my eye on literally that video for a time now.
It actually works pretty decent with the forced flow addition
the first time we litterally used the pump off a fish tank, the second time we used a heat gun
A guy I know made one and it works great.
Kinda tempted to see if we can adapt it for more glass specialties, and make it larger as well
Propane's also cleaner and easier to use than charcoal, IMO
true^
Oh, it should be easy to make larger. Bigger outer and inside bucket
I did this in highschool before I learned hpw to properly do it
I have a few 55 Gallon drums that would work as a the outside form
But man, is that a LOT of plaster mix you'd have to use.
Hah! I like you.
puns make the world go round...
and here I thought we could just roll with it...
Mmm, rolls.
In this channel, layer with it
But for reals though, it wouldn't be hard to adapt it for a larger project
And I’m just realizing this is Adafruit server, not my own, wait, other servers has puns?!?!?
We stole them to pun-ish you.
Oh, I seen a guy use old water heater tank for forge
Andon, I don’t need another 2 hour pun-a-thon on that topic, the cell is beyond dry by now
seems like this is a heated topic in this circle...
Nah, it done been watered down
Wait correct me if I'm wrong on my line of reasoning here... water heaters are meant to take water at boiling temperatures and keep it pressured... would you not be able to just use a water heater as its already insulated? or would you still need to add a larger barrier?
Im torn between puns and actually figuring this out now
Sorry, they didn’t use thicker insulation, just different type as more flame resistant
But essentially they did point out how the Shell was fairly good since it could handle heat & pressure
Mainly the guy cut it down & plumb gas line into it
He also kind of made cart for it, for portable work
I'd probably make it stationary, I've got the little one if I ever need to take it
Nice thing about farms, lots of space
Yea, he has even bigger, but melting is his business
They discussed as to why that size specifically, it was largest portable design they used, since people needed set amount of metal for some of castings
You can put good sized cauldron into it, but in fair warning, it can get pretty heavy, taken 2 guys to pour out theirs
So, if ya got a couple of sons! 😆
Well really can't be that heavy... the whole things a lighter!
Well, to be honest, insulation is 99% of weight
I’m talking about the cauldron taken 2 guys to pour
Metal is metal, even when melted into liquid form
thats true. again I'm thinking mount it sideways so I can just pull the crucible in and out
Yea, they kept their design rather simple since it was entirely thought up & made in like 2 hours
Sometimes those are the best designs
Oh, it is awesome design
The dude who made it is like genius engineer who lives by KISS principle
I mean if ya wanted nice aesthetics, that would be only way to improve it as far as I seen
Every time in the last month that I reach 1000 lines in a code file, I've usually forced the team to dump it and start from scratch and we usually can get it down to 200-300
Amazing how sometimes things can be simplified eh?
and if you have the chance to prototype too it might go better
yeah, and it usually takes a fraction of the time to make something new verse adapting the old
That was what got me, I seen these guys use forge they made in 2 hours over an entire weekend, and biggest problem they had was some of the insulation fell out
They casted like 100+ things with no trouble
In 2 days
hmm any pictures or documentation of it?
It’d take me a while to find the pictures online
I couldn’t find some casted pieces that was done that I got
ehh nbd, just if you had them handy
I hate it when a print fails
Not again
@here #help-with-3dprinting Live in 10mins! https://www.youtube.com/adafruit/live
Episode #179 – Pixel Dust Today's coupon code MATRIX gets you 10% off your order! #3DPrinting https://www.youtube.com/adafruit/live Giant LED Sand Toy http...
woaw
Ayy
party time
"Pixel Dust" 😃
I think that would get people all charged up!
Good show. I need to start watching it regularly... learn the inner secrets of my new toy :).. um.. tool.
a toy can be a tool, a tool can be a toy
shoot missed it
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Pixel Dust
Multistreaming with https://restream.io/ Episode #179 – Pixel Dust Today's coupon code MATRIX gets you 10% off your order! #3DPrinting https://www.youtube.co...
“Tools” are just toys for bigger kids
does anyone have tips for being able to tell if a publicly available 3d print file is any good? i'm looking through thingiverse and there's one up that looks really perfect for my project, but the print photo they show is pretty rough and messy looking. not sure how to tell if it's a problem with the file or just the finishing technique.
Link to it?
Looks decent, but it looks like it's been painted.
I'd be slightly worried about the overhangs on those "screws"
Most of the issues I see look like issues from painting badly
i'm gonna get rid of the screws anyway as i'm using them to disguise buttons
glad it's a useable file though, ty
I can't see anything glaringly wrong with it
Got my heated bed wired up now.
My printer is slowly coming back to being a printer
i just remembered i live in georgia nvm no heated bed
lol, some filament needs it, but you can inclose your printer
OH. IM. IM A DUMBASS I THOUGHT YOU MEANT LIKE.... THE BED YOU SLEEP IN..........
I THOUGHT HE MADE AN ELECTRIC BLANKET OR SOMETHING.
@stuck inlet /\
we have all done it
cool!
tht nice
nybody on here own a 3d printer or have experience buying one
@jj88#0228 what questions do you have? just ask and we will try to help
gha whats with the unable to highlight
@idle crest Wire spool holder is printing and bearings are ordered.
@idle crest What's the workspace mat you have in the wire spool learning guide (on the "assembly" page)? It looks pretty nice.
@cobalt quarry I got this one -- it's either the same or very close to his. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SXRXTL/
It makes a great neutral gray background for documentation/filming.
And no digs against the adafruit-stocked mat (which I have, and it's nice!)...the gray one is significantly bigger.
it's only $20 in the US , must be import tax or something?
Ugh.
Controller board for my printer broke.
One of the trim pot heads came off.
When I'm less frustrated I'll have to find out what size it is and order new ones. Thankfully, I have everything to de/resolder something that small. Still a pain though.
😦
Anyone use Cura LolzBot edition?
I find it is always crashing on me and rather slow from time to time
I've not had a ton of issues with it. Though I don't use it that often.
on a fast Win10 machine
@vagrant drum I do
Ah maybe that's it - I'm on a mac @deft zealot
Do you have a printer at the library?
oh cool - how much do they charge, if you don't mind me asking?
free
wow that's great
yeah, it's a nice lab
I think they have guidence for other libraries to set up as well
nice
I just bought 2 ikea lack tables to build a 3d printing enclosure
because my basement is too cold and my prints mess up
Hopefully it will look like the following
Oooo a prusa
@shy kelp Great idea. Thanks
@shy kelp How'd you do up the lighting? And is that a foam mat on the bottom?
I hate retraction issues :((((((
Spaghetti!
some printers just can't deal sadly
Why do spiders love 3D printers so?
they are efficient creatures
That kind of sounds like printing spidey webs will become a thing
Although, I do wish filament would be as strong as spidey web.
Well, a spider's very much like a 3D printing pen.
Now I got image of ya making Spidey webs with 3D pen
Went to see this today. 3D printed camper
This is a discord I made for Monoprice Select Mini owners, join if you have one!!!
https://discord.gg/XhGvzHa
@shy kelp yo save your multi coloured files with a pic of how it turned out
I'm also making a 2 colour printer so hopefully I can use your files are resources
just the stl and image of final print would do
Arigato
I'll post the final image when done
@small heron that is Lit AF yo
What filament is that??
Is there one of the Layer by Layer tutorial videos that goes through preparing your designs for printing? I was following along with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVmOtM60VWw and want to figure out how to prep the case and lid for printing...
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com ----------------------------------------- LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord Subscribe to A...
Also, that video is fantastic!
@shrewd rose are you asking about the one that failed? That's PLA , 2of them came off the bed and knocked the rest around when the print was at about 75%
So it was not a real lons
Loss
The only thing i dislike on my Anet A8, is that it takes like 15 min before im done swapping my filament
😦
Uhhmm suggestions for under 500usd 3d printer
That can print flexible filament and ABS
Good question, @polar sable . My go-to printer is the Prusa Mk3, but even as a kit it's 800 bucks.
I have the mk2s, but I don't think you can get that for under $500 yet
I have heard some good stuff about the monoprice one, but I'm not sure of what it can print, and the build plate is rather small
Hmm.. To be honest I kinda need large build plate because I need them for making chassis/Robotic part
I'm a big fan of lulzbot, but that is nowhere near your budget
This mini is 1,200 I think
Go for it, share photos
What is this phenomenon called ?
The bed is not heating so maybe it's because of that
But It's PLA so I don't know
@polar sable Unless you ha e experience with 3D printers before I would say
Buy the kits and assemble that
but tbh I would suggest you just buy Creality CR10 or Tevo
my senior got Tevo and he is happy
speaking from my experience after working for 2 months with 3 printers
Yes it is easy to make but it's not easy to troubleshoot since you probably won't have knowledge about the " parts " being used
But that's just me
You can check RCLifeOn
he did a good review on most of the printers
pick your top 3 watch their individual review and make you call
@shrewd rose well uhhmm 1000 dollar is not exactly cheap for me
Also not mentioning space issues I got
Only US$359.99, buy best TEVO® Tornado DIY 3D Printer Kit 300300400mm Large Printing Size 1.75mm 0.4mm Nozzle Support Off-line Print sale online store at wholesale price.US/EU warehouse.
Add like 10k inr to it cause tax
but you can check what price they offer in your country
500 is like max
Hmmm thanks
gonna print this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903
its a guide for my filament ;;-;
@polar sable you may just want to save longer, it's better to pay more for something that fits your needs better and will not break , then to get something that may not last or that you will not be happy with.
Hmmm
@shrewd rose looks like a result of a bed not being leveled
@Devta#7946 look like a badly configure extruder .. your first layer is under extrude and the second look over extrude and over heated, at what temp did you print ?
@shy kelp I'll try and level the bed thanks
@neon lion 190 it was written on the box so I used that
@shrewd rose first time printing ?
@shrewd rose Did you calibrate your extruder ? and you are sure everything is set right ?
Its been 2 months since I joined college lab so not my main work
But I do work on it
You calibrate extruders
Ok that's news
Off course you do LOL
Uhm you mean check the temperature with Pyrogun ?
like check it externally
that too if you have a thermocoupler on a multimeter is a good pratice to hook it hop and make sure your thermister on your head give you a accurate reading
what electronic are you using?
a good printer that give good print is a well build printer and well calibrated printer that why I dont like those kit floating all around, nothing beat homemade and assembly precision
we don't have good multimeters
cheap ass multimeters
Cause nobody thinks it's a good idea to invest in better and good multimeter
@neon lion this printer is 2 years old kek
this thing probably wont work , sometime IR gun dont read reflective area good, a thermocoupler is needed, but Temps wise your thermister if a good brand and is 3950k should be 3950k, I checked mine because it was chineses stuff without specs
since I joined one by one I have replaced all of it's electronics
Uhm
probably 8 bit then
Do you mean what electronics in printer ?
seeing your print straigh line I say your XY are probably OK
follow that guide I post and calibrate your extruder
so its give the right amount of plastics
Bed not heating
How can I check that ?
is there a guide for it in that link
O.o
@neon lion you ok ?
else you will spend your day playing with M221 S % if your extruder not well calibrated
bed not really need heating for PLA
I print mine on blue tape and its working super fine
thing is because of the bed not heating and leveling issues
we can't print anything other than pla
your problem is extruder calibration or heat from what I can see
you could try to reduce 10C and good lord level your bed 😃
hopefully there was no power cut this time
Yea put a card level the bed
hate that thing
Also cheap pla can result in stuff like that, cheap plz require a well set machine to perform
I dont know, I never level my bed its fixed
lucky you
calibrate my printer 2 year ago and still printing great, delta here
Because of the cheap ass design I have to level each time
Oh
that's nice
they have a auto leveling sensor I'll try and install that next weekend
Hopefully will give me help
Well I say if you have to level everytime instead of installing a sensor , spend your time fixing that bed so it stay level
everyone get a sensor for delta , I dont , I just build it very good so it keep accurate , that the key... not sensor
I do wanna open that shady printer properly wire things
amd add new screws but like I saod earlier it's not my project duty
so I can't
Quick Question
How hard is it to make a delta as compared to Cartesian
easy
I hope the electronics is almost same !?
you basicly design one side then you reproduce it 2 more time
and cost wise how much ( as compared to Cartesian )
electronic a good one cost little more since you want to be 32 bit instead of 8 since delta require more calculation
I cant say really it depend , mine cost 1500 but I made it myself , corner etc
now you can buy corner premade like at robotdigg
Uhm what does that mean ? 8bit amd 32bit ?
the motherboard !!?
yes
Hm Arduino Mega here
your run off a arduino 8 bit, mine for example is a radds shield on a arduino DUE a arm cpu 32 bit
runinng the best software reprap firmware
same as duet board
We have two printers
one is this one
and other is double extrusion
tbh the second one was started my college people
so it's like beat
dead beat

So salty bot
second one won't do thing for &hit
Take that @thin basin
cant even replace number by X without the bot tell me about it cause the number is a 3 digit lol
If both printers are working I will open the " one that I posted "
But If I open this that will stop the prints and I don't want that
check reprap forum too there is a place for print problem , you may find stuff to help you out too
we had 4 days of holidays and He didn't come to fix the bl00dy printer
He kept on texting me to fix it

Can't say no cause Senior
Hate that when it happens
its not a fix thing! every time you change the platics in a printer you do a couple of small piece to find out the right setting
My extruder is calibrate on one brand of black pla, when I change for a new platics or color , I print a couple square and look at the over/under extrude then add or remove % on the M221 command till I find the right spot then I write the M221 % on the drum so I know this plastics require X ammount of %
so my software always start a extruction factor 1
I add or remove m221 % per plastics roll
we will have a talk tonight
l I'm getting super late for college
I'll update one I do those things
Note that M221, extruder overide is for reprap firmware, I have no idea if compatible for your firmware you have to check google: reprap Gcode
do you use M106S255 for setting fan speed of extrud
yes i use that command I think
well I think we have same firmware
M106 S0 ; disable cooling fan
take care
@neon lion skipping college to complete my project files
so staying at home
Link me the things you use
I wanna take a look
this what they use in college
Craftware is pretty good
@shrewd rose I use simplify, but before that I used slic3r a little, and I dont use a host really, unless you count octoprint as a host, I kinda print straight from SD card and can Download my file into the sd using network if I need but again I use 32 bit ReprapFirmware
Can anyone hazard a guess why it's coming out so grainy looking? Also ignore the gauges in my desk. XD
what material, what are your slicer settings? also what printer are you useing
@vocal kernel ^
cr10 mini, unbranded pla
I'm also getting a lot of prints peeling up off the bed, just using regular painters tape
What's the ambient room temperature like?
it's not hot, but it's not cold either. sorry can't be more exact, I don't have a thermometer
That's about the sort of answer I expected.
"Cold" "Somewhat Cold" "Eh" "Warm" etc
Is your bed heated?
yup, I have it usually at 50 degrees
Slow or fast print speed?
print speed is at 60
Hmm. Honestly, I'm not sure.
I've heard people use gluestick even on painter's tape.
I'll have to give that a try
Click the link for the product search you requested
Click the link for the project you requested
Click the link for the Thingiverse search you requested
Oooh, that's cool.
@vocal kernel how long have you had that PLA ?
also something like that only needn 15% infill , the infill is not like to cause the issue
it's the unbranded stuff that came with the printer. I've had it for a few days. no idea how long it's been in the box though
PlA is a little hydrophilic , so if it was not shrinkwraped that could be the issue
do you have something else to test with
that photo looks mostly normal, so it's hard for me to tell whats up
i got a spool of rigid ink on order. the main issue now is bed adhesion. I'm considering switching out the glass build plate. maybe I'll go with spring steel
try bringing the bed temp up to 70c
ok, what's the best temp for pla, is 200 too high?
depends on the brand
the sun brand at the library uses 240 i think
what printer was it again? they ushaly have a table in the manual
okay @vocal kernel your print manual seems to want it at 100C for purging , but most guides want it around 185 to print
so I would brink the temps up gradualy and see if it improves
Thanks, I'll give it a go tomorrow, getting late now
@vocal kernel for ABS, I use buildtak - it makes it stick real well and they make a special spatula to get the pieces off when it has cooled
With a heated glass plate, and the buildtak stays on there for a few months
I am a fan of the pei sheets
Try printing with a brim. Helps to keep the prints from lifting
I use a brim of 5 lines, I'll increase it to 10 and see if that helps
are you hveing more luck today?
I'm At Work, so won't know until later
okay
So I am thinking that I want to snap fit these 2 pieces I am working on, but I am not sure how to shape it right, ushaly I would superglue it , but I hate superglue
the rectangular thing is going to attach to the bottom of the disk
XRobots have video of giant face now so huge
So, new pla plus painter tape plus glue stick adhered well. First layer looks like pants though
i think you are extruding way to much
over extruding? how do i change that?
not sure, I know very little about your printer
i will try and look into it for you
wile I am at it, can you try cleaning out your extruder ?
the nozzle or the whole thing?
whole thing
oopsie
@vocal kernel what temp did you have the extruder set at for that raft ?
there wasn't a raft on that last print, only a brim
still the temp?
I'm trying another print now with a raft and it seems to be printing well
i double checked the rigid ink instructions and it seems to prefer lower temps on the bed so i've dropped it to 45
thats way to low for PLA
that's what the instructions said, it's only a fairly small print so if it fails, no biggy. It does look ok at the moment
I'll look at your manual again, but PlA need's about 180C
I asked nozzle
it's at 200
okay that's probably\ fine
something is up with that brim, it's very much over extruded, looks like it happed cold
i think i may have had the temps set wrong, i used the built in preheat pla function with that print and it only heats the nozzle to 185.
won't be doing that again.
I am so used to cura profiles
i've not figured profiles out yet
on a side note, i need to make a better spool holder
yup
that sooo simplifies stuff
the version that comes with the printer
let me see if the cr10 list them like luzbot does
15.04.3
this may take time to hunt because they do not, bet you can make your own base off the luzbot profile
just note that the ngen one sucks
cool, I'll take a look
yeah, I tried google to find info and it's only getting what to set it to and not fill profies
Much better
@small heron thanks for the help
Adafruit Industries posted Floating Tub Boat - 3D Printing Time-lapse
Every week we'll 3D print designs from the community and showcase slicer settings, use cases and of course, Time-lapses! Tub Boat By: vandragon_de https://ww...
Adafruit Industries posted Wireless Qi Charger for Tesla Model 3
Today we’re going to show you how we built a custom Qi charging pad for the Tesla model 3. Behind our 3d printed mat is a wireless charging transmitter. So n...
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Flexible Wireless Charging
Episode #180 – Flexible Wireless Charging Wireless Qi Charger for Tesla Model 3 https://learn.adafruit.com/matrix-led-sand/overview Transmitter https://www.a...
meant that for letter 
I made a thing today that's quite useful: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2818062
I recently purchased a new Softsoap bottle because the old one was getting seriously gross--even after years of (lots of) cleaning. Lo and behold the corporate scoundrels at Colgate-Palmolive have modified the pump to dispense way too much soap (wasting it)! I'm not talking, "a little bit more than before" I'm talking, "holy crap that's a lot of soap that just went on to my hand!"
Fight back against the excesses of corporate greed with this simple plastic collar that costs about a tenth of a cent in your filament of choice! Just print it, snap it on, and the bottle will dispense about half as much soap as before (aka, the right amount).
I wonder what my roomie would think of that, we have that same soap
They might get mad, and then you'd have to come clean.
I want to make a place that sells the most absurd, but technically correct, items.
Like a sledgehammer that's labeled as a 3D Print Remover Tool
You can buy a 3D printer but it's just a spider.
a butcher knife for cleening print beds ?
A heated bed kit that's just a propane torch.
A house.
that would indeed work
Which is both correct for what my actual enclosure is, and what I'd put on the website.
so a 330 mains connection would be a power supply ?
A horse and a treadmill for said horse.
and a carrot supply ?
*Disclaimer: Carrots not included.
Carrot seeds
I am working on a flora case, thoughts?
the battery, I do not feel is ready so I guess you can ignore that
I like that color @small heron. What is it?
Has anyone found a consistent way to adjust tolerances? I have a gap of 0.5 that works well with ABS, but with PLA I have to scale up to 0.7...although I am printing the PLA at the same ABS temperature, so maybe it is too hot
If you're using Fusion 360, @supple stratus did an amazing tutorial of using parameters for design: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVmOtM60VWw&t=5s
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com ----------------------------------------- LIVE CHAT IS HERE! http://adafru.it/discord Subscribe to A...
I think it's sun PLA, I can check next week when I am at the lab next
@vagrant drum ^
@crystal parcel that is a great tutorial and i followed it. i'm just saying i find tolerances between filaments to vary
@vagrant drum You might have some success with taking calipers and measuring the true diameter of the filament
other than doing test prints f the snap fit parts i haven't found a 'good' way to gauge what tolerances will be necessary
hmm true
shrinkage may very as well
very true
I soo wish I did not have to wait a week to see if i fixed my goof /lement
btw @vagrant drum what are you snap fitting ?
i'm trying to snap fit some parts together for pet waste bag box i'm making
the box that holds the bags has ears and a mouth
/looks for screenshot
i could just as easily screw those pieces to the box, but i like a challenge ; )
that makes me think of that 'bubble' snap fitting
i just tried beveling the edges of the 'snap' thinking that might help
it's cooling now so we shall see soon
where the one pice is sorta bubble shaped tapperd and will nevrer come out
yeah that's what i want - snap in and don't come out
there is thus one shape that comes to mind , i bes someone has done it....
There's always the "Cone on a tube with a slot" that just goes into a round hole
that's a good idea too
Can also be adapted for a square peg/square hole so it won't rotate, too.
like the fittings on this ? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45316
This is a highly detailed snap-fit (no glue required) model of a Saturn V rocket. Its modular design and included conversion ring makes it fully compatible with my Modular Snap-Fit Airship and Trireme Upgrade:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45295http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45305
Uploaded an optimized version on 1/21/2013. Version 3 has improved wall thicknesses on the shells for two loop printing on almost every layer. The resulting build is more sturdy and efficent. The individual pieces are now avilable as well.
ah ha! beveling the vertical edges may have done it!
there's a slight jiggle, but it may be enough
alot of sins can be fixed with glue.
indeed : )
as an aside, i have ended up with a few 'fidget' pieces that jiggle just enough after snap fitting that they make for good idle distractions
Glue, duct tape, the never will give ever epoxy that fuses anything to anything including your hand
like the kind that leeked on the inside of a cabinet, that I hope my landlord never sees ?
Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Joints for Parametric Modeling
I'm learning how to use joints in assemblies and I found it really useful when making this parametric wire spool holder. Fusion 360 Source file http://a360.c...
Does anyone know how to change the top/bottom wall layer pattern in cura? Mine prints in a donut spiral shape and I want to get the zig-zag pattern
This is what my cura is set at
This is what I want
Hey @coarse thistle! By default, Cura doesn't show all of the possible settings you can use. You have to go to Settings -> Configure Setting Visibility and select "Top/Bottom Pattern". Then it should appear in the sidebar for you to change. You probably have it set to Concentric instead of Lines.
Thanks @shy kelp !
More info: http://thecornercase.blogspot.com/2014/07/3d-printed-mechanical-pencil.html Mechanical pencil was printed all together, already assembled. It take...
All this cool stuff yet doesn't post the files
Rip
looks like it was on shapeways at one point
I think I want to print an up arrow for the back of my matrix ....
some 3D prints i see is from Astroneer game like platforms
Adafruit Industries posted Villa Planter - 3D Printing Timelapse
Every week we'll 3D print designs from the community and showcase slicer settings, use cases and of course, Time-lapses! This week: Villa Desk Plant Pot Qrom...
Reminds me of guy keeps bringing up clay printing
CNC-related, but there's no #CNC channel. I'm going to buy a stack of FR-1 blanks and the electronics bit selection from Bantam (formerly Other Machine Company) for the Othermill in the maker space. I've never made my own boards before, so this will be a learning experience. Any tips for a beginner? Gotchas with the Othermill that I need to know about?
gha wrong channel
So at the library I redid the Flora case
i left some more room for wires along the edge
should i add another hole for them ore then them share?
I never thought to check my library for 3d printing! Thanks for the inspiration @small heron
we have a maker lab here
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Rolling Dice
Multistreaming with https://restream.io/ Episode #181 – Rollin Dice Today's coupon code VERTER gets you 10% off your order! #3DPrinting https://www.youtube.c...
Adafruit Industries posted DIY Automatic Dice Roller
This project allows people who need accessibility tech to "roll" the dice. Use it to play games like Yahtzee, left right center, math activities, war with di...
So I made this to back the flexible matrix but I don't think I properly accounted for the wires at the back
So ,I'm thinking just making the ledge bigger
that said, I am open to ideas
Small round file to create divets for the wires to sit comfortably in?
I am thinking that, now that I have all the splices done it is really flat
still just not enough for that one, I have one at the library that is a tiny be higer, but it was not done by the time the lab closed
Hmm that's a tough call. IDK what else is do. I'm still learning about 3d printing myself.
I can pick it up tomarrow I think. I will let you know
but if you would like some resourses , let me know
can you shorten the wires or route them a different way?
Thanks kitten. Let me know how it goes.
That's the most humbling part about 3D printing for me - how long it can take to realize a mistake and then fix it
I just finished this and I can't tell you how many different ears I printed because I lost track of all the pieces that were too big, too small, or the screws hole diameters were off by a smidge
tthat looks good
Here is the new wire set up btw
btw the baker is just a to stabilize the flexible matrx
do you know what guage wire that is?
i gotta order some of the stuff the use in the 3D videos...so thin!
plz
This is what I am after: https://www.adafruit.com/category/473
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : 30 AWG - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireles...
meant to buy some last night with the coupon, but alas got distracted
Click the link for the product you requested
true
I feel like I'd get frustrated with wire that thin, most of my breadboards are made to work with 24awg single strand i think
@edgy karma would you like an image of it next to something of known size ?
sure
I just feel like I'd end up stabbing myself with some of the strands in my fingers
what a scientist
well it is stranded, so it's more bendy
I have a weird problem. I was printing with Cura over USB (using a gcode file, not an stl file) and Cura decided it was going to make the printer retract everything out of the printhead
I had it working before, but it's been a long time since I printed from Cura
Usually I use astroprint, but my raspberry pi stopped working
I'm going to need to figure that one out too
And now my computer is running at 95% memory with no apps open
Ok this is a problem
Nevermind, a quick restart and the computer is good to go
Now for the printer
Still retracting way too much
Can anyone help?
I disabled retraction and it still does it
@here Does anyone know how to help?
@jolly silo What printer?
If one of them has time, @slim escarp or @cobalt quarry may be able to help.
Monoprice maker select
V2
It's really weird, nothing like this has happened before
Might just be a printing from Cura problem
It's only happening on the outside of the first layer
Adafruit Industries posted LEARN: Angel's Trumpet Lamp in Fusion360 - Forms and Sculpting @adafruit #adafruit
Model an organic flower shape in Fusion360 using forms and sculpting. Also featured: using basic shapes, offset planes, loft, revolve, thicken, boolean featu...
Retraction issue has been solved after a little fiddling
Good to hear! Did you figure out what the exact issue was?
Nope, and it's back now
I used a large model, and it's back
Time to set retraction distance to 1mm!
nice layer by layer @supple stratus
Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Parametric Lego Parts
In this tutorial I'll show you how to design LEGO compatible parts in Fusion 360. These bricks are to be 3d printed and driven with user parameters, so it's ...
@vast salmon gracias!
I designed my first 3d object, I just hope I got all the measurements right
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832628
This is an enclosure for the latest version of my airsoft gun computer here is a demo video https://youtu.be/f0cAb6_zdr0?t=15m41s
the old version can be seen here https://hackaday.com/2017/07/10/building-a-smart-airsoft-gun-with-open-source-hardw...
Good luck hope it works.
Nevermind, seen video, smart scope thingy, does it feed to your glasses?
Yes @spice estuary
@here 3D Printing Live in 5 mins! youtube.com/adafruit/live Episode #182 – Foot Switch and CAD Parts
What are we goin to have today...? Whats special..? @idle crest
Its Time..! My Notification didn't yet come...!
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Foot Switch and CAD Parts
Multistreaming with https://restream.io/ Episode #182 – Foot Switch and CAD Parts Today's coupon code ZIPPY gets you 10% off your order! #3DPrinting https://...
Hello all my name is Noah Schreiber. 3 years ago I purchased a 3D printer kit. It was DOA. On top of that it wouldn't have worked anyways do to poor design. For more information about it here is a link to a video of it printing on my youtube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lyff2O-t3sc&t=2s
I am faced with a problem now. The current extruder isn't working anymore without the original design in the video. I am forced to use the original e3d v6 hotend cooling system that won't let me print with pla. I have a new extruder my friend is printing out for me but I would like to get a few prints in the mean time.
The printer can't print PLA because it won't be able to cool the prints but can print abs if the prints could adhere. The prints aren't adhering to the build plate no matter what I do. I am using painters tape, PEI, and more and it just isn't adhering. I don't know what is going wrong. Can someone help me with this? Thanks!!!
This is my heavily upgraded 3D printer printing.
@sonic plinth ABS is absurdly picky as far as room temperature goes. From what I've heard, an enclosure for a printer when attempting to do ABS helps incredibly
I know. But I have done small prints with it in the past. I thought I could do that again.
gah!
anyone own a Lulzbot Taz4 in here? My heat resistor just failed...second time this has happened
wondering if anyone else has had one fail repeatedly
Adafruit Industries posted USB Foot Switch with Circuit Python
This DIY foot switch controller simulates USB HID devices. It sends keypresses just like a keyboard or mouse. It can be used as an additional keyboard, let's...
@sonic plinth I got nearly the same machine. A geeetech i3 pro B about a year ago. The design was kinda OK but i changed alot oft things in order to print properly.
It has a mk8 direct drive extruder instead of a bowden extruder and i have no problem printing PLA without cooling as long as there are no steep angles .
For adhesion i use hairspray directly on the glass plate wich works quite good for me but i didnt try ABS yet. Also proper leveling and hotend temperatures are important for adhesion.
I have a figure I want to print that has a tail sticking out behind it (it's a catfolk Pathfinder mini). Using standard support structure doesn't provide enough support. How would I go about adding a more solid support that I can later remove? I only have the STL file.
Thanks!!! @hazy lark
@cobalt quarry I use Cura 3.2.0. Easy to change Support... but first you have to select the appropriate menu items, before they'll show up. Go to Preferences (top left), select Configure Cura (only option), then select Settings (from the left hand menu). Scroll down until you get to the Support section, then pick and choose what you want to show up in the slicer menu. Cura has so many options, most of them are turned off, by default. if you select all of the support sub-options, I can't imagine just how much PLA you'll go through until you find the right combo. Enjoy!
OBTW, Cura imports the STL file & generates the GCODE...
I'm part way through that. Part of the experience is figuring out the options.
I think the number of permutations is something like pi e(1/your hat size) :^)
something happened to my asterisks (aka splats, spiders) from the equation, but you get the idea
Anyone here active or familiar with the work that Benetech /Diagram Center are doing with 3D printing accessible learning aids?
Does anyone know how to fix this?
gha I now well and truly hate tinker cad
I copied shapes into new files to edit and have difrent versions and it made the changes across all files
and I now have no knwon good and have to start all over
@jolly silo is that that the bottom ?
No, the top
what printer? what plastic ,setting ect. the more we know the more we can help
@small heron its a monoprice maker select. The plastic is PLA.
you have to self level the bed on that one right ?
@jolly silo your first layer is too close to the so the second layer isnt getting enough to bond with. This happens to me with almost every PETG I get too. Lower the bed just a touch till it goes away.
Oh, ok
Q: If the filament is shinny of the role, but flat dull white when printed, means I'm printing to hot yes/no ?
What temp are you printing,and what is recommended @fluid kiln
you may be a little to hot but esun is not all that shiny when done, if you are using cura you can grab a profile for it.
I think I use 240c @fluid kiln
I would have to look at the profile in the lab
And a couple weeks of painting.
Beautifully done, @cobalt quarry !
The wand is being painted now.
anyone able to help me figure something out with a 3d model i'm working on ?
@desert folio What are you needing?
Anyone know the best place to find Fusion 360 models of Gemma M0, Trinket M0, and Circuit Playground ? I thought I remember from one of he you tube shows someone mentioned that they had been reworked recently.
@crisp stream i'm trying to remove a piece from a 3d object so that i can replace it with something else.
What file type / software is it in right now, and do you have access to the original construction files?
its an stl
i downloaded it from thingiverse
its a ring back for pokemongo+, i'm trying to figure out how to cut off the ring portion
im new to 3d modeling
Without seeing the model, It sounds like the plane slice tool in meshmixer might work for you. There are alot of examples on YT using it to cut a large piece into smaller parts to fit in the build volume. This is just one example. The plane can be moved / rotated to cut off just the part you want to get rid of. Save the .stl out of meshmixer, and open it in your slicer to generate your gcode like normal.
Badge3D - https://www.facebook.com/badge3d/ Instagram - badge3d_ Deathstroke File by www.do3d.com Music by bensound.com
hmm, i'll take a look at it, thanks!
That's a fantastic paint job
Haven't done much in years... you never really forget.
@crisp stream Take a look here: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CAD_Parts
@stuck inlet Exactly what I was looking for, thx
So, I THINK I may have thought of a way to make a 3D print solderable.
It's... A little intense.
First, print with as high temp conductive material. If you're making a PCB, the non-conductive material should be pretty high too
I have seen ABS conductive filament. PETG would probably make a good backer material.
Then you electroplate it with copper.
THEN you find a solder with a low melting point - Below your conductive filament.
So you'd need a solder with a melting point of somewhere around 200, but not much higher, if your conductive filament is ABS.
PETG is... 240ish? So you can probably do a little higher if you find a conductive version
Not sure how well this would actually work. Just thoughts from the airport.
@here 3D Printing Live in 5 mins! https://www.youtube.com/adafruit/live
This week’s #3DPrinting Project USB Foot Switch with Circuit Python https://learn.adafruit.com/USB-foot-switch-circuit-python/overview Today's coupon code A...
My YouTube name is pinetreestudios I just mentioned this in the live show
There is reason to have same username here as YouTube
I used the wrong YouTube account during the show and chat
thanks for watching folks!
Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Minifigs and Starman
This week’s #3DPrinting Project Webcam Cover-Up Lego brick with Adabot Mini Fig https://learn.adafruit.com/lego-webcam-cover Today's coupon code ADABOT gets ...
I am designing an sla printer. It is coming together awesome so far! I am asking one of my friends to print some parts for me since my printer is down and under for the moment.
I got the print for my airosft computer box
Ummmm... SWEET! Great job on this, @supple stratus https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg6VJnoHv3s/?t=1&cn=ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=bdc06236d1ca4f62856cf9e3377e544b&uid=732809801915375616&nid=244+272699400
Does anyone have a CAD model of a datan s1213 servo on inventor or solid works?
Hay all, how easily does PLA absorb moisture and what does it look like when you try and print with PLA that has?
@glass cairn PLA is hydrophilic , so it can easily take on moisture , and if it is to wet it will just not print
it will sorta chunk out
That's interesting
Ok, That's what I get for being lazy. I've been trying to figure out for a while no why most all of my prints would like they did. Thanks @small heron
lol, thanks I just clicked back on the to ask exactly that. 😃 Thanks again @small heron Awesome handle btw. 😃
do not do the oven method unless you have one that is dedicated to non fooi items
Lol, do you think a massive bag of rice would do the trick?
you only need a few cups
but it will take some weeks
same with any non heat metheod
And if so do you think that sense the plastic wouldn't be getting heated, that it would taint the rice?
the issue is that you don't want to put a lab item ie the pla in a food oven
Weeks?? wow. though I guess it would be fare, the role has been sitting out for months
silica gel packets?
K, thanks. 😃
ok, those r cool. 😃
I was just going to use old ones that I've collected & stored in a bag
a sealed bag
Can you dry silica in a regular oven without chance of it messing up the oven? @small heron
I do it for my hearing aid dryer
cool
every one has a comfort level, I mess with some rather unsafe stuff when I do dyes, so i keep my lab stuff seperate
you can if you want to bake your pla
but I would not
I would in the lab oven.... but thats me
the PLA or silica or do you mean both? That I shouldn't dry just silica in a regular oven that is used for food?
I get not to try drying the PLA, butI'm not sure about drying silica
@small heron
oo, I just read for those reactive beads that you can also microwave the beads to dry them too.
Gotcha
no don''t nuke them
that can go sideways fast
learn from my dealisg with the fire dep
low and slow
for the beads not the PLA
like ribs
Mmmm riibbbbssss........
PLA is up to you, if you have a dedi oven in you rlab go for it
Nope only one oven in the house
my library lab has a huge toaster oven, it's handy for this sorta thing
nice 😃
yeah
Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Master Assemblies
Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com Adafruit on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adafruit ----------------------------------------- ...
When did github add STL file previews? Neat!
https://github.com/estranged42/arduino-status-screen-tft-touch/blob/master/Case TFT.stl
wow... thats amazing didnt know that 😮
hey if you want your pc case to have custom 3D printed parts so thermaltake have makers 3D print hub http://3dmakers.thermaltake.com/ and for coreP5 case http://3dmakers.thermaltake.com/Download.aspx#coreP5
Good morning, I have a Maker Select V2 that is giving me infill issues. The outer walls seam to be printing very well solid & strong, but the inner stuff, the infill seams (my guess) under extruded?
I've replaced the tube in the hotend, leveled, just opened this roll of filament 2 days ago etc. Help?
@supple stratus do you have any suggests or ideas of how to fix this?
or @idle crest
@glass cairn what infill percentage are you using? maybe it it set too low for the resolution of your printer. 10-15% is usually the normal low end, especially if you are trying to conserve filament or trying to cut time on print.
Hi @small beacon . These are set to 20% cubic, even when set to a higher percentage though, it still prints the infill structure the same way.
@glass cairn Quick search on the topic seems to indicate you might need to go in your slicer to tweak the printing speed of the infill to match the printing speed of the rest. Hopefully you'll get a better answer from the experts. Good luck.
Thanks @small beacon
Wow!! I think you hit the nail right on the head. My print speed was @ 50, while my infill speed was double that at 100. Wow, huge difference, no wonders why it's been giving me so many problems.
yup, for some reason the default infill speed is always set too high 😐