#help-with-3dprinting

1 messages · Page 4 of 1

faint sky
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with the metal PEI bed sheet it grips so well when extrusion and z-offset are set correctly that it replicates the bed text in the print surface.

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while the bed is hot i literally cannot remove the print from the bed, would require about 75lbs of force. after retramming the bed i get super adhesion now... thinking about having another go with PETG.

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@coarse coral my Ender 3 S1 Pro comes with a PEI bed, filament sensor, CR touch and auto leveling (unified bed mesh leveling), and all metal sprite extruder. S1 Pro can compete with CR6 and Ender 5's easily.

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It can't compete with the CR10's build volume and can't be extended in X axis with bed extensions like the other Ender 3's due to the plastic shell. You can however increase the z or y-axis like with practically any printer and give yourself a longer bed or taller gantry.

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Ender 3's can also now run Klipper which I'm seriously thinking about for a future upgrade.

inner cedar
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Sometimes I think about buying another printer… but I already have 5 and haven’t been printing lately DX

coarse coral
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I like the ender but I ran into a few issues with the build quality out the gates. The springs on my bed were loose and couldn't get good levelling, it constantly had thermal run out errors, and the power supply was arcing. Ender 3 is notorious for being a total work horse but I'm just glad I got a few nice extras with the cr6. Slightly bigger build plate and just seems easier to work with. I use a glass plate.

shy kelp
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I'm sorry for the bad drawing, does exist any cheap extruder that's like this? where the hotend is one piece with the guide pipe of the filament?

image.png
faint sky
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yes that's an all metal throat and heatbreak when it doesn't have a PTFE lining.

vocal flax
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Does anyone have suggestion for single gear mk10 or creality extruder, and e3d v6 direct drive mount for prusa i3 style mount?

shy kelp
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the resin that does not emit "bad odours", what's that? I mean is it any safer, or is it only about that it does not emit odours, but you do not know what are you breathing in? idk if I am explaining myself

faint sky
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Seems the better creality extruder right now is the sprite extruder which is the one I have and why I feel no need to upgrade to anything else. The sprite extruder is a full metal hotend allowing you to print at 300C, dual metal gears (instead of 1 metal gear and 1 bearing), no PTFE lining, easy filament changes, good cooling fans, mount for CR touch, silicon sock (which has saved my butt multiple times).

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I've never once had a clog with the sprite extruder, printing almost every single day for 2 months straight since I got it.

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Most of the new print heads coming out recently are based on the sprite extruder, it's really really good.

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It maxes out around 120mms for flow rate though. You're not going to be entering a speed benchy contest with it. It's designed for quality prints over speed.

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Most people don't print above 60mms though so it's more than adequate for the majority of makers out there.

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print i completed tonight. adafruit IoT Gmailbox. i like printing in concentric mode now.

IMG_0744.JPG
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you can see the reflection of my overhead shop lights in it. that was a good print.

arctic dragon
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Worth noting that only the pro is full metal, IIRC the standard sprite extruder is still PTFE lined.

arctic dragon
elder oxide
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And also, water wash resin waste still needs to properly disposed of because resin is well.. resin and bad.

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Don’t go dumping your wash bath down the drain now 🙂

inner cedar
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Resin will harm you, it’s more a matter of how much at a time will harm you

hoary wind
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Somewhat related to 3d printing, for CNC - I am wondering if anyone has a recommendation for free and opensource 2d software that's CNC specific?

arctic dragon
shy kelp
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I'm annoyed by my current 3d printer
Does exist any already built witj5 odrive and autobevel 3d printer without an high cost?

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(annoyed, because there's always something wrong with the extruder, feeding, add on top of that the slowness and fails = waste of time)

vocal flax
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Idk what you're talking about odrive but you can make yourself auto bed leveling probe for cheap if you have some limit switches (klicky probe), servo+ir sensor or proximity sensor

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It doesn't have to be expensive my diy M3 screw probe works just as repeatable as bltouch and cost pennies compared to bltouch

shy kelp
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Yes I don't want to deal with any of that

vocal flax
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And for detecting jams or something you can use filament encoder sensor. There are both off the shelf parts that you can buy or way to diy

vocal flax
shy kelp
vocal flax
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I haven't heard of any consumer device with closed loop control yet

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I misunderstood and giving common solutions to problems.

faint sky
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Just looked up odrive, my god in heaven.

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How can I speed up my 3D printing? This guy is just like "Yes, yes to everything"

elder oxide
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I’d love to print really fast

faint sky
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speed printing is impressive because the accuracy required to do stuff like that is staggering.

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It would take my printer hours to do what his does in minutes. However if there's a problem I could see a printer like that easily ripping itself to shreds. Even the smallest issue would be magnified.

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That stuff is like drag racing for 3D printers, I can see the appeal. You're going to destroy a lot of printers before you get it right.

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How in the heck his stepper motors aren't on fire I don't know. I've never seen a water cooled stepper before but now I can see a use case for needing one.

shy kelp
faint sky
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didn't know servos could be that accurate, neat.

shy kelp
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(if my memory is right)
But in 8 years of cheap 3d printers they are just a waste of time in my end

arctic dragon
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Odrive is not a standard thing in 3d printing, that’s for sure. I’ve never heard of a prebuilt odrive-based printer, though I imagine people have done these in diy if they do enough work with both odrives and printers.

Though at those acceleations, properly tuned input shaping is an absolute must.

shy kelp
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Maybe maglev axis would be better to not deal with vibrations (and attrition)
But I am broke and dumb so idk

arctic dragon
vocal flax
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Even CNC machines I've never heard of odrive. I expect ethercat servos do same job tho

arctic dragon
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In all fairness, odrives with brushless motors and encoders get pretty expensive pretty quickly, too. At least relative to steppers. There’s a reason why all of the popular hobbyist 3d printers use steppers and not closed loop control.

vocal flax
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Consumer 3d printers just started to explore closed loop systems

shy kelp
vocal flax
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In time I expect them to get there but even then it's probably gonna be expensive

vocal flax
shy kelp
vocal flax
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Steppers are open loop controlled, no feedback of position. No way to know if stepper missed a step due to external disturbances

arctic dragon
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Closed loop feedback control is where you use sensors or encoders to detect your position and use that information to control your motion. Steppers are pretty well controlled without them so they’re generally run open loop.

vocal flax
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Afaik stall guard closed loop controls the current not the position

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You can detect something going wrong or missed step with current response. I don't think there is any attempt to fix the position. (My knowledge on TMC drivers are limited still stuck with a4988)

arctic dragon
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Modern stepper drivers do have some means of detecting particular modes of failure, stallguard being one of them. It provides some feedback, though not necessarily enough to be called closed loop.

iron remnant
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I mean, if you wanted to make a printer with ODrive, all it really takes is a CAN do attitude.

coarse coral
hoary wind
arctic dragon
# hoary wind Looking for CAD Software.

Fusion 360 is usually my recommendation for free CAD software, as it also comes with CAM functionality. However, the number of options drop drastically with the inclusion of open-source.

That being said, the CAD software used for CNC is generally the same as that for 3D printing, and anything that handles 3D can do 2D as well.

LibreCAD seems to check all the boxes for 2D open source CAD software for CNC, but I’ll also throw in FreeCAD and OpenSCAD as alternatives for more specific 3d functions that may be useful for other things.

hoary wind
arctic dragon
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Pretty much. Instead of a slicer, you send your model to a CAM for your g-code.

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Only other significant difference in the cad part of things is how you optimize your design to work best with how you plan to produce it. Design for manufacturability or something. For simple things, though, very little change. An extrusion of a 2D sketch will do just fine.

faint sky
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Yeah most people around here use Fusion 360 because that's what Adafruit uses. You can directly import their models with .f3d project files. The .stl files are mesh only files but the .f3d files are directly editable solids.

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Another alternative is FreeCAD

shy kelp
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As free there is also salome
But I have not tried it myself

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Otherwise you can look at list like those
https://alternativeto..net/software/freecad/?license=opensource
Try everything and pick your best pick

coarse coral
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I've been using SketchUp web since I was running Linux but planning on returning to windows so I guess fusion is just another thing to learn

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Have to say SketchUp web is pretty good but even using it in browser on windows seems to yield better performance than chrome for Linux

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I didn't plan to make any game models so bypassed blender on that basis since it's got sooooo much in the UI

toxic kite
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crazy UI, been meaning to understand it for the past decade or somesuch myself
tempted to try recreating some artisanal chess pieces that went missing

faint sky
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Actually same. I knew how to use Blender and Maya but found myself using sketchup most often because it was lightweight and fast. Fusion 360 is basically just Sketchup with more work put into it. If you’re familiar with Sketchup then the transition to Fusion 360 is much easier.

loud silo
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I have been using (browser-based) TinkerCAD. I found it more intuitive than SketchUp. Also used (for programmatic design) OpenSCAD, which has strange limitations due to its base semantics. CadQuery looks interesting but haven't tried it yet.

sleek crag
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The main problem with SketchUp is the lack of parametrization. If you decide to change a dimension later, it can take a lot of work to sort out. With Fusion360, it can often, but not always, be much easier.

winged helm
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What's the rule of thumb for upsizing holes (hexagonal in this case) in PLA? Is there a percentage?

sleek crag
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Short answer: there isn't one.
It depends on the exact PLA, printer, and slicer settings. Best way is to print a test object with varying sizes to see what works best. If you're planning on shoving nuts in there, I suggest extra perimeters to help prevent it from rounding out.

cosmic star
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Does 3d printed stuff shrink? If I am making a box with a simple lid like this, do I have to make sure that underside part is slightly smaller the actual top opening into the box so that it will fit when done?

vocal flax
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They shrink a little bit but usually printer's tolerance plays more role. Every printer's tolerance is different and can change with material, too. I design my parts with 0.3 clearance for small dimensions (never printed anything bigger than 100mmx100mm) and the fit is usually lose enough to rock side to side. The small motion helps me align the parts. If your parts wont be glued, my suggestion would be making some small test parts with varying clearances to see which suits best.

faint sky
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Same, 0.3 seems to be the most common tolerance at least by default. If you try for 0.2 you're going to have a bad time, it's just too tight.

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For snap fittings my first designs used 0.2 and I had to smash them together with a mallet ultimately breaking the part in an attempt to make it fit. It's so tight now though that I can't get them apart. 0.3 is a good safe starting distance. That goes for hole offsets for screws and anything that needs to physically join together.

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For snap fit I'd start with 0.3 clearance and if it's still too tight redesign the offset to be 0.4

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Every printer is different though which is why doing some type of tolerance calibration test print is extremely helpful to find the clearance your printer likes the most.

faint sky
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In Cura I highly recommend getting the Calibration Shapes plugin. It comes with a wide range of calibration tests to help you dial in your printer settings. I've highlighted the ones that I think are the most helpful in dialing in initial settings for a beginner or when working with a new filament type for the first time. I ran all of these tests the first time I ever tried PETG for example... and still ended up having a hard time because PETG is notorious for being hard to work with.

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in order to do the dimensional accuracy test you need digital calipers to measure the printed part afterwards.

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unlike the CHEP calibration cube the dimensional accuracy test is circular which can help spot smoothing issues on any axis.

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and ignore the part that i have in my slicer, that's a mailbox for a project.

faint sky
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tried printing some clear PLA and got very frustrated that it wouldn't stick no matter what i did.

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it was coming out much thicker than expected so i bumped up the temp to 215, retrammed the bed, adjusted z-offset, and still failed to adhere.

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i was just printing with some black PLA so it made no sense

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then i finally broke down and looked at the spool to see the recommended heat range printed on the spool

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and it said clear PETG... oof

faint sky
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Raised the temp to 240 and bed temp to 70. It started warping after the first layer.

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Jacked the temp up to 250 and bed temp to 90. No warping, on layer 50 right now and perfectly flat layers so far. 🤞

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Attempting to print a larger clear mailbox. A maximum print volume attempt. Cura ETA is 3 days 15 hours. 😬

coarse coral
faint sky
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.4 😅

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Since im still waiting for the pi to arrive i used a security camera for print monitoring. At least gives me some way of monitoring the print remotely for now.

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Clear PETG because i intend to put some some neopixel lights inside for even more of a visible notification.

inner cedar
winged helm
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Thx!

shy kelp
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not printing but 3d, does exist some sort of library management, or git for grabcad? so I do not need download, unzip, place, each time?

faint sky
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do a hole test, there are test prints for that kind of thing available on printables.

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if you're using cura i believe there's a calibration shape actually called hole test.

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and a tolerance test is always a good idea. generally i know my printers tolerance is .3 so i design any grooves, snap fits, moving joints, etc.. with a .3 offset.

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@shy kelp as for model downloads you always have to download them individually and unzip... unless you're using linux with some kind of GET and tarball command.

faint sky
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grabcad, thingiverse, printables are not setup like repo's. since you have to know the specific url to download it might as well do it via GUI. yes it's time consuming i've often thought the same thing when getting models. it's so they can track the amount of views and downloads for metrics.

faint sky
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50% at 42 hours, about 500/1023 layers. ETA is about 87 hours. So far so good. Basically a full sized mailbox in clear PETG. Have the bed cranked up to 90C. So far still sticking well after 2 days of heating. If PETG hasn’t gotten knocked off by about layer 20 good chance it’ll finish.

coarse coral
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How's.your print going @faint sky

faint sky
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getting close

coarse coral
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Going strong nice

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I'm trying to dove tail and drove a 2mm area on a box lid

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Groove*

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Bit of a leap of faith it's a 500g print

faint sky
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haven't even reached the other set of pivoting holes for the top, so maybe 6-8 hours to go.

coarse coral
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Have you put a hinge on it to print in place ? Let's gooo

faint sky
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oof yeah mine is about 623g according to cura.

coarse coral
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I can't do a hinge design on this it's needs to be hidden really.

faint sky
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not print in place no, the front and back lids will be separate. just the main taco shell right now.

inner cedar
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mmm, taco...

coarse coral
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Well that's cool

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Very cool

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So super cool

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Some might say fantastic

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Tacotastic

inner cedar
coarse coral
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leaves the conversation

faint sky
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90 hours just for the main shell

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started printing on Friday umm it's Tuesday right now. Because it's PETG I have to print slow. 30mms

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4 walls, 20% triangle infill. the infill pattern should be good for light dispersal. could make it more clear doing 100% infill but that would have raised the print time to like 150 hours.

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the banding effect you see is due to the infill. the walls layer adhesion is fantastic and very clear.

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after this i might try some smaller prints with 100% infill just to see how clear i can make something.

arctic dragon
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Ooooo pretty. Overture PETG?

inner cedar
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I usually do quarter cubic at like 5-10%, but not sure how that would look for clear...

arctic dragon
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I’ve been a fan of gyroid infill lately.

faint sky
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polymaker clear PETG, my go to brand is polymaker for no particular reason other than it's the stuff i found on amazon and it works. i'm not particular about brand.

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gyroid is excellent for structure but the goal was to kinda try to allow light refractions and gyroid wouldn't be good for that.

arctic dragon
faint sky
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honestly didn't think of that

inner cedar
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Sometimes the simplest solutions are the hardest to think of

faint sky
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at least i get to test my full build height, something i've never even come close to doing yet. my tallest print prior to this was actually the mini mailbox and that's only like 4" tall.

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i was extremely anxious even trying such a big difference instead of taking smaller steps up

arctic dragon
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I do like polymaker for their pla, but I’ve honestly been hesitant to try PETG on my glass bed…

faint sky
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i was careful during assembly to ensure gantry and sides were level all the way up so i'm confident in that. however i've done a lot of printing since then and haven't remeasured anything accounting for settling.

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after i started this print i began to second guess myself wishing i'd remeasured every bit of the structure first. nope, i'm not that smart. just sent it.

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i think the horror stories with petg and glass are from people not waiting for the surface to fully cool before removing their prints. the impatient ones that just rip prints off the bed.

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after every print i turn off my printer and let the bed cool to zero for about 30 minutes... then i can literally push the print off with 1 finger. I have a textured PEI sheet though.

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the bad thing about textured PEI especially with PETG is if something goes wrong like a power loss the bed will cool down and print will de-adhere on its own. it's a blessing and a curse.

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i'm looking into a big UPS solution to ensure the printer never loses power

coarse coral
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I'm just levelling the gantry every month or so. I use a glass bed and it's a touch uneven but I've got about 80% of workable area so I won't pad the build plate with tape for that

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I re purposed the foam that came with the printer packing as a base. It seemed to absorb vibrations really well

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I use uhu stick

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For every print even though it will stick to glass I always have a glued plate and some times I don't need to reglue it until I start to worry about the finish quality of the part that sticks to it

inner cedar
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uwu stick

coarse coral
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It's amazing , some times I use so much I just raise the z offset by .5

inner cedar
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That's a lot of glue XD

coarse coral
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Never has failed me, infact the opposite it has saved a print that came unstuck. I used the spatula to paste some and stick it back down mid print

inner cedar
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Nice

coarse coral
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If you apply it when the bed is just warm it also goes on very very even

inner cedar
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I use an invisible glue stick on my one glass bed -- as much as I love the glass-smooth undersides, I had an incident where a print stuck a little too well... took out a little chunk. Had to flip it and started to use glue, just enough to coat the surface, and had a good balance on adhesion

vocal flax
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I can't stand consumables so I just use magnetic pp sheet and it works wonders for pla. I'm scared for petg, it might adhere too well.

faint sky
inner cedar
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I've had the same gluestick for years, lol... I just apply every now and then, like every 20-30 prints? One of my printers has a magnetic metal plate with BuildTak or something similar, which has the benefit of being able to bend to pop off prints... but I have had the BuildTak tear. Another uses a type of glass, I think PEI? It's textured and prints adhere well, but pop off when it cools, and have a mostly smooth bottom. Yet another has a flexible magnetic sheet that works well, but can be hard to position

faint sky
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With some Enders like my S1 Pro can only raise z-offset in .5 increments. That annoys and frustrates me because it's what makes the leveling springs absolutely necessary in my case. Only way I can make up for .4 offset is to retram the entire bed.

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oops, used a bad word. my fault, sorry about that mods. 😬

inner cedar
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oooo, did you say a bad word??? naughty

faint sky
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yes apparently a certain common phrase dealing with being frustrated isn't allowed here.. minor correction np.

elder oxide
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Lol

faint sky
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is there a publicly visible list of disallowed words so i can actually see what NOT to say?

inner cedar
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I don't think so

faint sky
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so it's a minefield

inner cedar
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... I'm really curious what in creation you said

inner cedar
faint sky
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honestly how it feels dealing with dynobot sometimes

inner cedar
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lol, yeah

elder oxide
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Wut in tarnation

inner cedar
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Japan

faint sky
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Also, I try very hard never to even touch the bed surface with my fingers which leaves traces of oils. Once cooled I can push parts off with no problem. If something is kind of still stuck down i'll use a paper towel if it means coming close to touching the bed surface.

inner cedar
faint sky
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It's so that I never have to consider hand oils as a source of failed prints either. I do this stuff to cut down on the variables if a print fails. Makes sense to me.

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So when watching youtube videos of 3d printing stuff and i see someone popping prints off by 1. touching the build surface and 2. bending the build surface... i die a little inside. 😛

inner cedar
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TOUCH EVERYTHING

arctic dragon
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Bed surfaces are generally considered a consumable for other reasons, but if it works for you, I don’t see why not.

topaz viper
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bending the build surface is fine, I just remmeber to clean them again before putting them back

inner cedar
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Just don’t lick the plate

faint sky
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87 hours

sleek crag
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Oof. Congrats on the no layer shifts.

faint sky
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I know right! Because it's PETG there's so much that could have gone wrong.

full falcon
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@shy kelp can I have some help

shy kelp
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No

coarse coral
coarse coral
faint sky
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I've seen it happen to others and it's usually due to a mechanical issue such as dual lead screws out of alignment or belt skip. I've seen some really gnarly exhibits too where things shift by a couple inches. Being on reddit's 3d printing topics you see a lot of stuff and get to learn from others mistakes.

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Since it's my first time doing a full volume print it's inspiring to know that everything is aligned correctly and working properly. now i can tackle larger and more detailed prints with confidence.

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servo fitment had some issues. had to clean up with snips. will have to fix the 3d design, the tolerances are way too tight. put the flag on from the mini mailbox just because. haven't printed the big flag for it yet.

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gave the servo motor a surface to sit on, in hindsight it was unnecessary and complicated things.

arctic dragon
coarse coral
coarse coral
faint sky
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The original small iot gmailbox has a servo. Seemed like a neat idea to keep it and throw it in the larger version. I'm printing the larger flag for it today.

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It will be plugged in from a small hole in the side, a permanent wall mounted display.

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The front and rear lids pivot on the large circle cutouts by hand, like a regular mailbox. Will be using magnets at the top to ensure the lids stay closed because like a genius i forgot to build the snap fit stuff into the main shell before printing. 😅

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You can definitely power it with a small lipo if you want because it'll be running on a feather. This one isn't going outside so there's really no need for a battery.

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I will be using it as a way to prototype for the electronics that will eventually go in the real mailbox outside though. 😉

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That one will use a sonic sensor, rp2040, and lora featherwing.

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Will also experiment with recharging the lipo battery for it with a small solar cell on the back of the mailbox. With wake timers hoping to make it low power enough that the battery will never need to be recharged manually.

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There are 2 mailboxes involved here. The clear mailbox receiver will be wall mounted inside the house and the one outside by the street will have the transmitter electronics.

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The flag only activates when it senses activity at the mailbox outside. There will also be a bunch of neopixels stuffed inside so it'll light up the same time the flag activates.

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size of the 10W speakers to be mounted to the mailbox lids. 😉

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Will be using Adafruit's 20W class D amplifier module inside.

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LORA Boom Mailbox

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The mailbox is the speaker enclosure 😉

inner cedar
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“You’ve got Mail!”

elder oxide
vast salmon
faint sky
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Got some red PETG today. 🙂

gloomy anchor
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anyone with experience in metal printing? what is it generally like

sleek crag
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Expensive.

gloomy anchor
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haha seems so

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did it cost like $100/hr for printing?

faint sky
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Scam Alert: you really really have to be careful of cheap Chinese sellers trying to pass sintered aluminum 3D parts off as real aluminum now. This actually just happened to me this week. I purchased some aluminum extrusion L brackets and they sent a whole pack of sintered L brackets. The t-nuts and bolts are real but the brackets are obviously sintered.

faint sky
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redesigned the lids for the 10w speakers. using 50% infill to hopefully prevent some rattling but it's going to take 24 hours per side. if i need to add ported holes i can calculate the volume and drill them afterwards.

mailbox_speaker.PNG
gloomy anchor
faint sky
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I have opinions only, no practical experience, so I'd rather not muddy the water without facts. Hard to find comparisons of aluminum casted parts vs sintered. Most places that offer sintering claim they're for prototyping parts only which implies they're lower quality than casted parts. I did find out you can actually polish sintered parts though. If you want real polished metal for cool aesthetics for costumes or trim pieces it's an attractive option. I wouldn't use it for structural integrity where weight/load/force is factor.

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sintered aluminum is far more porous than casted aluminum and if you know anything about cast aluminum that immediately means weaker yield.

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there are plenty of applications for stuff like that though. polished display stands, things that don't need to carry much if any weight. i think it does have a niche. since it's an expensive process it's less appealing vs using something FMD or resin printed then painting it to look like metal.

fallow phoenix
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https://www.pm-review.com/introduction-to-powder-metallurgy/properties-of-powder-metallurgy-materials/
Aluminium alloys Pressed and sintered Al alloys can deliver UTS of up to around 200 N/mm2 as sintered or up to around 320 N/mm² after heat treatment and tensile yield stress of up to around 170 N/mm² as sintered or up to around 320 N/mm² after heat treatment, but with quite low ductility levels (0.5-2% Elongation).

as far as the quality of industrial process from discount vendors, YMMV, of course.

Powder Metallurgy Review
Properties of Powder Metallurgy Materials

Properties of Powder Metallurgy Materials. The mechanical properties available from the materials, commonly used for structural or engineering component...

arctic dragon
# gloomy anchor anyone with experience in metal printing? what is it generally like

Prior to binder jetting, the primary means of metal printing was selective laser sintering, which was slow, messy, expensive, and very wasteful. It did result in a basically finished metal piece when complete, so you would basically just pull it out and clean and polish.

Then, binder jetting came along in the form of desktop metal and made metal printing a lot more accessible and scalable. You have to cure and sinter the entire thing afterwards, so there is an extra step, but you save so much print time and can generally recycle far more of the unused powder than you could in the laser machine.

For the really brave and not as financially well-off, there even exists an FDM method for printing metal. Most metal filaments are just composite plastics with metal powder suspended within for improved material properties, but thevirtualfoundry.com offers a filament you can print with and sinter in a kiln for pure metal or ceramic. Probably the cheapest way to print metal, especially if you already have an fdm printer and access to a good kiln.

coarse coral
elder oxide
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Limited edition, only available through time travel

coarse coral
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Got u

elder oxide
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🫣

coarse coral
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My pla and tpu arrived

IMG-20230223-WA0007.jpg
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What unusual yellow is that I hear you say

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That's only j yellow by eryone

inner cedar
elder oxide
inner cedar
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Lol

coarse coral
faint sky
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Those speakers were from amazon. I have a 20W adafruit amplifier module so wanted some good quality 10W speakers to maximize the performance of the module.

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RP2040 Feather > LORA featherwing > I2S audio module > 20W amplifier > 2x 10W speakers

elder oxide
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Lol.. it thought I was doing a block quote 😂

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There we go

faint sky
coarse coral
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Fyi this is a case for a pi and screen combination

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The HDMI connection juts out so needed a custom housing for it

gloomy anchor
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kinda feels a bit fragile

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maybe you can place it in a furnace to be isoheated to get all the metal grains to fuse together?

coarse coral
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Test print full send 26 hours

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This has been such a hard thing for me to learn and do

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6 months ago I said I'm making a handheld and it all started there with a background in web development

inner cedar
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Spiral of creation

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There are worse things you could have done with the last 6 months, lol

coarse coral
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It's true and I always say to myself that I beat chatgpt to this one

inner cedar
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Lol

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I need sleep, nini

coarse coral
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Gnite

faint sky
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looks good stendle, your dimensional accuracy and supports look better than what i can do. nice and crisp.

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test fit looks pretty good.

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small speaker grills arriving next week

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wow, i have a 3d printer now. i could have just printed my own speaker grills.

faint sky
coarse coral
# faint sky looks good stendle, your dimensional accuracy and supports look better than what...

Yes for some reason this project feels like it has dragged on by 8 weeks too much, the mechanisms on the first proofs didn't all work as planned and was always looking at ways to slim at least the left and right hand side down since this is with a model b and not a custom PCB. I 'think' the model b USBC supports data transfer so decided to only make one through hole on that basis.

I've had mixed results with printing in this orientation but overall the holes all worked out

coarse coral
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Test print failed at 2% it came unstuck . More glue and now at 3% .

faint sky
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fitment looks good

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when fighting against bed adhesion ensure your z-offset is properly set and bump up your bed heat by 5-10C.

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bed adhesion is a combination of perfect z-offset, bed temp, and nozzle temp. those are the 3 main things.

coarse coral
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I think I needed to lower the offset on this one however I try to be methodical with glue which raises its height and adds adhesion so it kinda works out quite fast. This pla is the cheapest I have and adhesion seemed less good than my go-to of eryone so glue glue glue . I did also take its temp up by 5 for the second attempt

faint sky
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and of course a perfectly trammed bed but that's a requirement for doing anything

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i've never used anything on my bed. when you get it right you should never have to. feeling the need to use glue, hairspray, or other band aids just means something is wrong.

coarse coral
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I am with you to some degree but I don't mind using glue but very careful on final prints to be very even as it can affect the surface

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Uhu is great and removes very easy by washing under hot water . Then I just use a blade and isopropyl alcohol then glue

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I'm actually going to flip this glass bed onto it's smooth surface for the final print since this side has a small hex pattern that some times gets left on the print

faint sky
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i treat my bed like a holy temple. nothing touches it other than filament, not even my fingers ever touch it.

coarse coral
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What type of bed do you have? I know it's not flexible 😅

faint sky
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that way it cuts out a lot of troubleshooting steps, don't have to worry about surface contamination or other factors if prints suddenly stop adhereing. honestly makes life easier in the long run.

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textured PEI, i could touch and bend it if i wanted to, i just don't.

coarse coral
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There's only two things I've seen bad adhesion with. A sudden raise in atmospheric temperature made my print warp and got unstuck. The next is lack of glue and bad offset. The offset it my fault the glue is a mix of the pla type and my application

faint sky
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i don't touch it because it's textured, too much stuff could get captured in the little sandblasted craters

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even hand oils

coarse coral
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You'll cringe when you hear that I used a blade on this with force without really thinking 🤣

faint sky
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everyone has their own way of doing things when it come to build surfaces. i'm very particular in how i treat my surface is all. to each their own, if it works it works.

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and i do have ahesion issues from time to time, spring tension goes out of wack, vrollers wear down. retram, reset, redo. i've just found that leaving the surface alone completely eliminates those parts of troubleshooting that others might have to question.

coarse coral
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Yes it will do that but I don't mind on a old or new bed using glue to get round the issues quickly and the adhesion is usually a 9/10 from there even with taller and more heavy prints

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And in terms of tramming I just tighten the hot plate bolts a little bit more in some areas more than others to pseudo tram my bed

faint sky
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yes but when even the glue doesn't help should be an obvious clue that something is really outside of spec and band aids aren't enough anymore.

coarse coral
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Yeh

faint sky
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and i think it was someone from hackaday that told me gluestick is only as a release agent and doesn't actually help with adhesion.

coarse coral
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I can verify it does help with adhesion

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A lot

faint sky
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i see a lot of people using it and swear it helps with adhesion, since i've never used it wasn't in a position to argue with the person.

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actually the head of hackaday too

coarse coral
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It just offers a cushion of absorption and locking

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Which is nice for my tolerance

faint sky
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ah that makes sense

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the glue raises the bed level slightly

coarse coral
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This is my second creality and I don't know enough about them to get it to be so precise yet even with the basics so I just say what the heck more glue

faint sky
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but you can't coat the entire bed evenly with it or does that not matter

coarse coral
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It's not so important to be 100% even just a good attempt to be a few small raises here and there doesn't particularly matter since it has enough okay the hot end tends to even it out . We are talking fractions of mm here

faint sky
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i think the science behind it kind of checks out

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you can use elmers wood glue to clean vinyl records

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when it hardens you cool it down a little and it releases from the vinyl taking all the impurities with it

coarse coral
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Now that's smooth

faint sky
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so you'd get a little higher layer height with glue with the added benefit of it actually cleaning your bed surface when it cools

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and you rip it off like a skin?

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not sure if craft glue would do the same thing like a thin layer of wood glue would

coarse coral
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Yeh not so much after a 12 hour print the glue becomes less flexible . It usually is good for a few prints but I tend to clean it off after a long print and go again to stop visual defects on the surface

faint sky
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ah is it water soluable?

coarse coral
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Yep very much

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Plus 5 uhu sticks will last for months

faint sky
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sounds much more practical then

coarse coral
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I seen this guy who made his ender 3 all white

faint sky
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i wonder if the wood glue trick would work to clean a printer surface hmmm

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white would be a dirt magnet, most printers are black for a reason.

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not a fan of the printer with the motor directly on the hotend. swapping to a pancake motor will lessen the weight but also reduce the torque, burning money.

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having the motor relocated to one of the gantry arms like Ender 3's is the way to go. having ultra light hotends is one of the way to get faster prints. less mass and inertia.

coarse coral
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I'm just glad all these fdm manufacturers never decided glossy black was a good idea

faint sky
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it was a thing with the black acrylic kits in older printers though

coarse coral
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Black and red is a sweet colour scheme

faint sky
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black goes with any color 😉

coarse coral
faint sky
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so does white but white is easier to spot stains so black should always be the default base color for just about anything and then you add color highlights.

arctic dragon
faint sky
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lid attached, pivots great!

vocal flax
gloomy anchor
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can glass be 3d printed?

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actual SiO2 glass

arctic dragon
shy kelp
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Question: so cura and other slicing systems account for tolerance? Or should I keep to account for it while drawing the model?

amber garnet
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are there any 3D models for the short single-color keycaps on Adafruit? I bought the cyan ones for a macroboard but i have an extra one that i wanna use on my actual keyboard, except its a lot shorter than my actual keys so i wanna 3d print a riser for it

amber garnet
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like for example if you have a .125" peg and a .125" hole they almost definitely wont fit together without some sanding

rough trout
shy kelp
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also does exist anything free that optimizes the material usage and speed of printing? like I can throw some vororonoi thingy to a base mesh, then suppose that it will save materials while printing, but thats not it

coarse coral
coarse coral
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And yeh I make tongue smaller than groove usually. Only fractions of mm usually

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5 hours remaining

coarse coral
faint sky
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actually no, that would be a smart thing to do before building an entire project around them. 🤦‍♂️

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just assumed they work, bad thing to do.

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this is part of the 3d printing life. one day everything is fine, the next your prints are warping, shifting, blobbing, or ghosting.

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supports are particularly frustrating to deal with sometimes, they're more fragile.

faint sky
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I use middle absolute tolerance which is really bad for thin supports but better for dimensional accuracy. The problem with dimensional accuracy is you can adjust horizontal expansion but not vertical expansion. There is no xyz thermal expansion parameter which is important if you're squishing layers together at 0.1 layer height for highest detail. It might actually expand or contract vertically as well.

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Depending on your layer height setting, a z-offset difference of 0.05 could mean the difference between a print expanding or contracting. This is why people build enclosures in an attempt to control the entire environment around a print.

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yeah that sucks. pretty obvious it went down well and then warped over time afterward because the walls above it are still straight. i haven't seen that exact kind of warping before. low thermal transfer in that one particular spot along that edge somehow. do you use the silver heat tape and insulation on the bottom of the bed? check to make sure it's still adhered in that spot under the bed.

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one thing i noticed when i was having extreme PETG warping: it was warping in the same spot every time, which happened to be right above where the bed heater ends under the plate. now that i've figured out i should be using 20C more bed heat vs. at the time i'm sure my warping was due to being on the edge of the bed heater and low bed temp.

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your print still looks well within the bed heating boundary, couldn't hurt to raise the bed temp more unless you're already near the safety limit. (most beds will go up to 120C).

faint sky
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You'll start getting elephants foot at the max bed temp for your filament type. That's when you know it's the max bed temp. Do small calibration prints like calibration cubes to dial in your max bed temp. Raise the calibration cube off the bed and use supports under it so you can test support adhesion with the bed temp too.

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In my experience Creality printers like the max temp printed on filament spools. For PLA it's like 190-210, use 210. Same for whatever the spool recommends for bed heat usually 50c-70c, use 70c. For PETG go with 250C/90C.

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However even using the perfect nozzle and bed temp will not stick unless your tram & z-offset are perfect.

coarse coral
# faint sky yeah that sucks. pretty obvious it went down well and then warped over time afte...

Turns out it wasn't a warp, that's a thin layer of support for a chamfer pointing away from us there. It was a weird support alone from the other supports. It did come loose however. My test fit sucked. Going full send now, I think it will work out with some changes. I found my dove tails sucked at 2mm but the squares just clicked into place with pressure. So opted for more square snaps (who knew a cube can snap into a cube indent) my tolerance is .2mm with the expansion they snap lovely

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I haven't had elephants foot in any prints, I just run it at 60. Makes muse (iirc) said you don't really need a heated bed for pla

faint sky
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interesting, i've never actually tried PLA without a heated bed.

coarse coral
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Matte black here i go.

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Yeh he also did tests showing energy usage being way cheaper for that usage

faint sky
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because bed heating is built into the sliced gcode. might be fun to experiment with.

coarse coral
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Yeh I'm just going to stick to 60 for now but I've got a project after this I will definitely test at 0 with

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I can almost guarantee this eryone filament will stick with no problems

faint sky
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if it works at 0 then the filament recommendations would also note that?

coarse coral
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I love pulling a model into cura after doing some work on it and getting no errors

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I think brand is very important for 0 just guessing tho

faint sky
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i still have about 15 hours left on my 2nd mailbox lid. really interested to try that out. i'd do it right now i'm so interested but i have a print going.

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because this is the last piece for my mailbox i can switch back to PLA after this

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oh lol pretty much every model i make cura complains about not being watertight.

coarse coral
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One thing I did notice is zero stringing this time . Looks like levelling the z lead screws and tightening gantry had a huge pay off

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I printed at 120mms yesterday but I want to go back to 60mms and be patient

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34 hours of patience

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🫡

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Yeh I think some plastic was pulled just a bit too quick in the print and jerkiness

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60mms it is

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So long tomorrow hellow Tuesday

faint sky
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120 🥳

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think i'm at around 30 for PETG and 50 for PLA

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things start getting messy for me around 60

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are you using klipper? how in the heck are you doing 120 on a cr6?

coarse coral
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I think I just got lucky with things. I spent time tightening all bolts and belts within their respective assemblies and same goes for other areas. I'm using latest creality firmware .

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This print decided to re level and flip this glass bed onto the smooth surface. This should be cool . Matte black feels premium by eryone

coarse coral
coarse coral
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No adhesion issues so far on smooth surface of glass plate but there is a long way to go.

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2 layers of uhu down

coarse coral
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I think cold plate and glue could be a solution since the glue will get mildly warmer with plastic contact and then solidify to hold

elder oxide
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Just me over here printing reels for lose tape components that I have 👀

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Had to make a few minor bed adjustments on the first layer

3929C73B-2C2F-4045-917E-39F6AED1935C.jpg
coarse coral
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That looks smooth I've just started doing this plate smooth side up

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So much smooth

elder oxide
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I print shiny side up always

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I like the mirror finish

coarse coral
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I'm all for it now I know it's a thing

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Nicer to look at I'm sure

elder oxide
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Oh yeah, 100%

faint sky
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Oh la la, very pretty.

elder oxide
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Minor imperfections but it’ll work

iron remnant
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Came out reel nice.

elder oxide
coarse coral
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Sadly my print failwd at about 35%

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I can't seem to escape glue yet. But it does mess with the finish. So have reduced to a smaller amount this time. I really should get away from glue asap

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2 day print now .

coarse coral
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The later lines are so tiny

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Eryone matte black, 210

coarse coral
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Great my y stepper motor has siezed and died. Hopefully I can get support from creality on this printer. 3 months old

faint sky
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Awww that sucks. The print looked beautiful to that point. Looks like the support connection failed to hold. You can increase the thickness of the support connection but it'll be much harder to separate.

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I don't think that'll actually help with the warping issue though. The warping is the main issue.

coarse coral
# faint sky Awww that sucks. The print looked beautiful to that point. Looks like the supp...

Yes it did look like that pretty much we agree there. My plan was to have more density for more grab points but I think wall thickness would be just as good.

The bad thing is my y stepper has died so everything stopped until figure out what to do there.

The warping I think it didn't make a good support connection and began to wobble but also think I had inadequate cooling this has happened before and not happened when I use external fan. Maybe the hot end is just too hot

faint sky
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Is this on PETG or TPU?

coarse coral
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Pla

faint sky
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I've never had this happen with PLA.

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Are you using 100% cooling?

coarse coral
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It's very rare for me to have warping honestly . 100% cooling yes

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I think my machine is cursed

faint sky
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I've had this happen on PETG. I think it was a combination of factors. Overextrusion (which judging from your walls and infill isn't a problem for you.

coarse coral
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I had corrupted firmware (im sure) broken belts, X wobble, hot plate with a lot of wobble. Now y axis stepper and my extruder assembly seems Sus

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Yeh I never had problem with flow despite not being able to access extruder

faint sky
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Infill was too thin so I bumped it up parts became too fused together. Had to use a pick tool and snips to separate. So I reduced the flow rate to 95% on the infill. Also retrammed the bed and after that got perfect prints.

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no more warping, even with petg

coarse coral
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To be fair it's fine it will give me time to fix the parts in the model I was ignoring and eager to print . The customer support hopefully will either send me a new y stepper or finally exchange the whole thing.

This print is 100% infill

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So my flow is actually pretty sweet it would really show

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2mm walls

faint sky
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ahhh yeah the constant heat/cool cycle might contribute to warping?

coarse coral
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I'm not sure . Could you elaborate on heat/cool cycle?

faint sky
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the parts that warped on me were close to 100% infill around the walls too yes

coarse coral
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Oh

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I think this will be solved with more cooling and stronger supports. I'm mad tho that was about 250g of plastic

faint sky
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might be more pronounced in my case because i was printing at 250C

coarse coral
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It's also possible my y stepper was grinding and it lifted it

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It wasn't until I did first layer on next print that it really went wrong

faint sky
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as the nozzle moves away the filament cools. because it's 250C at very slow speed about 20mm it heats up the entire area around the nozzle, then the nozzle leaves and the entire chunk starts to cool.

coarse coral
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So we might not even be dealing with a warp

faint sky
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it's obviously bending upward in your image though and separated from the supports, it definitely warped.

coarse coral
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It's warped yeh but very possible it got snagged and lifted

faint sky
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yes exactly, that's all i can think of as a common denominator because my experience with warping is only with petg at high temps.

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snag means over extrusion for some reason

coarse coral
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Yeh I think we have definitely diagnosed the solution if it is entirely warp but since my y stepper catastrophically failed on the next print within the first layer I'm going to say since most of my other pla prints were fine that this is y stepper issue

faint sky
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which can happen. sometimes i find little blobs here and there and while it's printing i'll clean things up with snips, keeping an eye on things every hour or so.

coarse coral
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Same

faint sky
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there's no y layer shifts which i'd expect with a failing y motor

coarse coral
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Well actually

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When I get home I'll post a photo there was problems

faint sky
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ok.

coarse coral
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This side is where the nozzle was when it failed . It does look like a lot of snagging in that one area

faint sky
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i'm looking to extend my y axis by about 2 feet which will require a much longer carriage, bed, and two sets of v-rollers. adding a lot of weight. so i looked up the torque of my creality y axis motor and it's barely got enough power to move the bed alone. add a heavy print on top and it does exceed the torque rating. i was kinda upset when i did the math.

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if you end up replacing it try to find a y axis motor with higher torque but same max amperage requirement if possible.

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because if a motor fails once from too much load it'll happen again.

coarse coral
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I think it's possible to find stepper motors for reasonable price. Basic looks like about £20

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Yeh

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I'm thinking I'll go all in with this printer and do upgrades. I do like it and have commited to repairs . We will see what support say, I don't think the steppers should fail after 3 months but we all know creality qc is less than good

faint sky
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the support layers look big and round vs your layer height for walls and other stuff

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might be a mismatch of support layer height

coarse coral
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Yeh I think it was not great contact but would always rip apart if the y failed since it would be gridning over x

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Also when I removed the supports on this failed print they came off so nicely

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So this plastic is definitely nice but small warp or grind made it fail . What a story 🤣

faint sky
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almost looks like over extusion only on the support material. which would raise the height beyond your normal layer height. and next time it tries to print a solid layer it'll be gouging through the print.

coarse coral
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If it was grind it wouldn't matter the support density. I had a test print of same model just before this and was fine

faint sky
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i've had that happen, lots of nozzle scraping, a cringe sound like fingernails on a chalkboard.

coarse coral
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Yep it could be but over extrusion or lack of movement leading to excess blob. All of it made it fail.

Yes but first I need a new y stepper

faint sky
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3D printers... hundreds of things can go wrong which is why when everything goes right it feels like a huge victory.

coarse coral
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I wouldn't change your habits on this, I do feel the y stepper has a lot to answer for here based on previous print success

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If only I was paying attention when I noticed it failed. Instead I just powered off and removed the print

faint sky
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true, the y axis failing certainly muddies everything for diagnosing anything else in this case.

coarse coral
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Well the printer is unusable now

faint sky
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you'll get back up and running, stepper motors are everywhere now

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brand new cr6 too. that's a shame 😦

coarse coral
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It also looks bent

faint sky
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it does kind of yeah

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check the teeth on the belt?

coarse coral
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Belt looks healthy

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Comparing to the x motor that alignment is so bad now

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And it does not move I think the gears clashed and now the full motor is bad shape

faint sky
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has this happened before? that's not a creality branded motor. all of my motors have creality stickers on them.

coarse coral
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I disassembled they motor but didn't see anything obvious.

Not happened before the printer is stock so far

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It looks like the rod is bent down lol

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Either way it's time for a break again, which is important anyway. That's the good thing about 3d printers they tell u when to take a break 🤣

faint sky
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they're hard to find but i found a 42-60 motor to replace my y axis motor with.

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stock is 42-40

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you should be able to find a replacement by searching for creality stepper motor 42-40.

coarse coral
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Maybe the motor is fine and it could be the rod. I don't know the full assembly but just looked for stepper motor and they don't show teeth

faint sky
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the 42-40 is the same one used on almost all of creality's printers.

coarse coral
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So is the teeth (metal) on that assembly a part next to the motor ?

faint sky
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yes it's a GT2 belt gear and gets added to the end of the shaft with a grub screw

coarse coral
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Ah

faint sky
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those are very easy to find as GT2 is a standardized size that practically all printers use

coarse coral
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Maybe the belt gear is borked and motor is fine

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No teeth in this product

Screenshot_20230227-112046.png
faint sky
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yup that's normal

coarse coral
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Maybe it just came loose. I guess I need to fully investigate

Screenshot_20230227-112208.png
faint sky
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possible the grub screw came loose or got sheared off. that's best case scenario.

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remove the pulley and see if the shaft spins

coarse coral
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Okay be home in 10 mins . Let's gooo

faint sky
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or you could just look down into the pulley and see if the shaft is spinning inside, if that was the case then the pulley should just slide right off if it's not screwed down.

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it's a half shaft design so a pully with 3 grub screws won't actually add anything to it. a pulley with 1 grub screw is adequate.

coarse coral
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Well in here now legs see

faint sky
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one reason this might have happened is too tight of belt tension, forcing the motor to have a higher resistance load than necessary.

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not tight enough and you'll get backlash, too tight and you'll get high resistance on the motor. like everything else with 3d printers there's a sweet spot.

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they should have been properly tensioned from the factory though, most creality printers are mostly prebuilt these days.

coarse coral
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Yep I did tighten mid print on this occasion

faint sky
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that could have been a deciding factor, live and learn

coarse coral
faint sky
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i honestly don't have a feel for what is too loose or too tight either so don't feel bad.

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it's all kinda best guess when it comes to belt tension and belt deflection because there are no specs that come with it.

coarse coral
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The good news it's disassembled

rn_image_picker_lib_temp_f1241579-bf1e-4ccd-b74e-c27f9d10e0c2.jpg
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The bad news and maybe in wrong I'd this bolt has snapped off ?

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Certainly looks like a snapped fitment to me

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So that means new motor since it's deep inside the stepper motor. I removed the plate on the opposite side of this stepper motor and not really able to easily change that part.

coarse coral
faint sky
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oh my, yes the entire shaft sheared clean in half. motor is destroyed. 😦

coarse coral
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Thanks for confirming. I've sent this information to the seller who do offer support. Hopefully get something under warranty here

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Should I be blamed for this ?

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It's sheared at the angle so yes very much broke. Super glue?

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Maybe I can 3d print a new one 😩🤣

faint sky
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hard to say, the motor should have stalled instead of breaking

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ultimately no

coarse coral
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Yeh I agree , hopefully they send out a new stepper. Now we know the problem it's nice to take a sigh of relief

faint sky
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it should have also made some really loud noises

coarse coral
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Have a question for you whilst you're here

faint sky
coarse coral
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Uhu glue

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That will be just enough

coarse coral
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More like wood lol

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Either way I guess it's time to give this machine a full clean

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I wonder if my machine has been a refurbish since as you noticed there are no creality stickers on the motors

faint sky
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it's very possible. i've never seen creality ship motors without that creality sticker on it.

coarse coral
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I'm all for refurb and things but sold as new

faint sky
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the fact the motor might have been replaced before means this is now a recurring issue and the motor failing is just a symptom and the real problem might be elsewhere

coarse coral
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The mainboard fan gave up also

faint sky
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oof

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mainboard fan helps cool the mosfets

coarse coral
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I'm going to see if they have a telephone number

faint sky
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possible all the issues are related to a mainboard issue. possibly the mainboard itself is refurbed in some way too.

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if they sold it to you as new then you did get scammed as we've already identified one unoriginal part.

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be tempted to see what condition the mainboard is in... and if it's even a real creality board.

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oh you've got a pi sitting on top. that complicates things as it's a modification. possibly electrical load taking away from the mainboard. are you powering the pi separately or from the mainboard?

#

i don't have solid spacers on my S1 pro. i have springs and tensioner wheels. have no experience with shims sorry. :/

coarse coral
#

The pi has never been connected in any way to the printer

#

Only used official firmware also

#

Let me get access to the board and will show you

#

Wonder what the "b" is

rn_image_picker_lib_temp_b589e002-ebc3-4294-8192-00adef1077fb.jpg
vocal flax
#

Could that be, bad? 🤔

coarse coral
#

And a belt snapped on the X axis

#

Pffff

#

And my Bowden early on wasn't flowing very well

#

All stock parts have basically showed issue . Maybe it's just one that came out the factory badly kekw

faint sky
#

looks like B- so battery negative? don't know why that would be on the lid of the SD card.

coarse coral
#

Maybe this was one of the early kickstarters

#

I mean that type of manual work on full production seems unlikely

faint sky
#

can remove the extruder bolt with some careful twisting with needle nose pliers, then find a replacement bolt.

coarse coral
#

Let's gooo

faint sky
#

appears as if the v1.0.0.3 boards are among the first versions yes. They're up to v5.2 boards now.

#

I don't know what the ERA means in the board model.

coarse coral
#

Thanks for helping , it is what it is .

vocal pilot
#

also not sure if a LCD Panel can fit into this 3d print

vocal pilot
faint sky
#

the problem with a full size replica of legacy tech with 1:1 displays is finding a square 1:1 display large enough.

vocal pilot
#

I'm not worried about getting a LCD I can set the emulator to emulate 800 x 600 like I can do that on my old Macbook with 800 x 600 pixels

#

Raspberry pi can use any screen size like 800 x 600 even it's a 720P screen

coarse coral
#

@faint sky seller is sending a replacement y stepper.

faint sky
#

It's really scratchy but it's a start. RFM95 is sitting inside broadcasting & receiving.

coarse coral
#

I'm confused. Why do you broadcast "you've got mail" ?

#

What's the speaker inside the box for? The mailman m

#

?

faint sky
#

yes

#

there will be a transmitter in my real mailbox outside

#

let's me know when i have mail so i don't have to walk to the mailbox to check

#

which for most people isn't a big deal, but if your mailbox is like 1/2 mile from your house out in the country, that's pretty useful.

#

this is all just a prototype as a gift for a family member. wanted to get it done by christmas but that didn't happen. so maybe i can get it done by next christmas. this kind of project takes time to refine because it's not something you can easily modify once installed.

#

LORA Mail Boombox, ya can't buy that in a store. 🤟

queen canopy
#

I'm working on a base for a toy fortune teller thingy. This isn't really 3D PRINTING related but I want to model in a spot for a battery case.

image.png
#

I wanna put it on the bottom

#

The guts of it is this device, an EZSound audio chip

image.png
#

It runs on 3.7 V

#

What size AA battery holder is the equivelent of that?

#

2 AA, 3AA, or 4 AA?

#

I'd imagine 1 of these would work

winged helm
#

Is this clean?

faint sky
#

@queen canopy All 3D related stuff is welcome here. 3D printing is just part of that really.

#

actually having looked at the pcb i don't think it's advisable to power it with regular batteries unless you can power it from the USB jack itself.

#

it's for lipo rechargable batteries only. you can't use regular batteries with it.

#

you can get a larger battery that will last a much longer time.

#

any of these lipo batteries from Adafruit should work fine https://www.adafruit.com/category/917

Batteries, LiIon & LiPoly, Batteries Products Category on Adafruit ...

Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Batteries - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Accessories Cosplay/Costumi...

queen canopy
#

Okay so I just got done printing a print that went fine. Now I’m trying to print something else, and I’m getting this “homing failed, printer halted please reset”

#

Any idea how to fix that

#

?

coarse coral
coarse coral
coarse coral
#

@elder oxide any tips for printing without glue on glass plate shiny side?

#

Print height is about 60mm

#

230mm by 110mm

elder oxide
coarse coral
#

Thanks . I'll do that, and probably get a calibration test also .

elder oxide
#

Weirdly, static cling (the force not the product) will be helpful, so not printing too hot is important I’ve found

coarse coral
#

That's interesting, I had an ender 3 for a little while and I wasn't using any adhesive. I did print at generic pla temps as set in cura which is lower than I have been with glue.

#

I think I need to do some calibration tests of lower temps with high detail to verify any discernable differences there and then adhesion at a level to sustain the larger amounts of plastic

#

Printing at 210 on this particular brand made the lines so smooth

#

But if that 5 degrees means I will get better grab to the build plate it's worth checking

elder oxide
#

Currently printing an onyx to warm up my basement

coarse coral
#

I literally printed the same dragon ! Ok maybe not .

elder oxide
#

I’d love to print one of those neat dragons

coarse coral
#

I did it at small scale and it turned out great, sadly I don't have a photo rn

#

I've disassembled my pc, sold my desk and waiting for a new y stepper in the post. To be honest I'm glad to have a few days break from technology

tulip isle
#

Once again tried printing
Once again came out half sized and only some of it actually printing

#

Usually at least a good chunk of it sticks to the resin vat

coarse coral
#

Aw that sucks

inner cedar
frozen wasp
#

Any suggestions for a DIY 3D printer to build? I don't currently have access to one and would like to go out and buy necessary parts for it, but I can't print anything

rough trout
#

Voron is a popular, good one

inner cedar
#

There are designs using motors, rails, and lasers from optical drives... 100% scrap

rough trout
#

I'm sure you could find sellers that sell a bundle of all the 3D printed parts for a Voron- the 2.4 seems like a really good machine

vocal flax
#

Problem: Ever since I changed to klipper i struggle with probe or z steppers I am unable to pinpoint the issue. Everytime I print the nozzle either too close to bed or too far away and it wasn't consistent on entire bed so I wasn't able to just tweak z offset and move on.
The system: acrylic laser cut bed slinger. Mega2560 and ramps. A4866 drivers 1/16 microstepping 0.9 motors. Raspberry pi 1 b+ running mainsail os. I am using 3d printed probe. Basically it's M3 screw cutting light, similar to link. Important features, electronically it has Schmitt trigger, mechanically it has spring but spring doesn't engage until the probe passes the trigger point. For the bed I've tried magnetic buildtak clone stuck to a glass bed and just glass. Pcb heatbed.
What have I tried: 4 point mounting 3 point mounting. I've tried the gantry alignment tool, bed leveling. The repeatability tests were better with marlin. Also the range was a bit big but i tried making 5 samples and taking median of samples, the bed leveling more or less looked same with 2 samples in height map.

Anything else you need to be able to help me, i can provide.

Probe: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290

BFPTouch - Poor's man BLtouch. A simple, cheap, neat, precise, comp...

Background
I was using an inductive sensor as my main Z_min sensor. I was unable to use it as bed leveling sensor because I was using a very thin and soft steel plate under the glass. This lead to several issues: the glass itself is not perfect. The steel plate under it was not flat even when compressed so both the steel and glass does not repre...

vocal flax
#

By hobby device i meant a device you keep working on improving and/or tweaking

frozen wasp
vocal flax
#

In that case prusa printers are pretty good option

#

But recently seeing a lot of bambu labs printer. If you are okay with closed source device they seem really good

frozen wasp
#

But my main goals are: use the parts I have in my possession, and not have to 3D print some parts, I really want open source, and one I can build myself

vocal flax
#

Prusa probably best option

#

You can buy printed parts

frozen wasp
#

well, yes, but i believe those would probably be too expensive because they need to be shipped and getting anything shipped to Australia is usually prohibitively expensive

elder oxide
#

Probably the closest you’ll get to DIY for relatively cheap is an Ender 3/3 Pro

vocal flax
#

My printer is mostly scrap built, with some laser cut pieces.

#

But it's nowhere close to cheap considering today's standards

frozen wasp
#

Well, I don't exactly need it to be cheap, just able to be bought in parts

arctic dragon
inner cedar
#

If you start with a scrap built printer, one of the great things is you can then print parts to improve it. I've known people who increased their accuracy and speed over time by simply replacing brackets and motors over time... 3D Printer of Theseus

vocal flax
#

That transformation is really fun to watch. 🙂

inner cedar
#

*they

#

I'm half following the conversation, lol

frozen wasp
inner cedar
#

I have done this

#

Also crying. Lots of crying. If you don’t cry it won’t work.

frozen wasp
#

Okay maybe something a little bit more... functional than that

vocal flax
inner cedar
vocal flax
#

And it is scalable to a reprap printer

vocal flax
faint sky
#

Things have come a long way since then.

#

A recent cheap entry that I'm kind of interested in is the Sovol SV06 plus. It's an Ender 3 S1 Pro clone. Does pretty much everything the S1 Pro can do at a much cheaper price. Prusa's are great because they're very highly supported.

rough trout
#

The neat thing about Voron is once you're done building it, you generally end up with a good printer- not something made of popsicle sticks and bubble gum that you immediately put in a closet. Not as cheap as some of the other ones, however.

faint sky
#

3D printing space is extremely competitive. so you kind of get what you pay for most of the time. except i think Creality is highly overpriced these days.

#

Voron's are very popular lately, if you intend to DIY your own definitely give those a look. Some of them are extremely impressive but like everything with 3D printing your mileage may vary depending on how deep you want to dive into them.

rough trout
faint sky
#

i know right. very competitive for the feature set... which is definitely on the high end for features except speed.

#

and as i've said many times and will continue to say, speed is nothing without accuracy. accuracy is the entire point of a 3D printers existence.

winged helm
#

What's a good way to fill in the bottom of this STL so that it has a flat print surface? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1638997

I use fusion but I'm open to new software. Preferably foss

Sea Urchin Scan, NextEngine Scanner by dricketts

This is a scan of a sea urchin, done with NextEngine Scanner at the highest setting. My friend found this 30M underwater, on the sea floor, off the coast of La Isabela, Dominican Republic, many, many years ago. I still have it :)
I thought that this would be a good item to evaluate the scanner with, and I figure it would also be an excellent tes...

faint sky
#

@winged helm Import it into Fusion 360, reduce mesh, convert mesh to solid, create a cylinder and stretch it to cover the base of the model and use the cut parameter to cut the model with a flat cylindrical base. I've already done it and you want to cut about 60mm from the base.

faint sky
#

Getting Fusion 360 not to crash due to the triangle count is tricky. Reduce the mesh too much and you lose all the detail in the model. Too many triangles and Fusion 360 will be slooooow and/or crash.

coarse coral
#

Heard good things about sovol also nice price , if the build volume is above 220 I'm all for it

coarse coral
coarse coral
#

DIY would be my next thing, after getting familiar with cr6se and ender 3 it was a good intro. I'd definitely consider a DIY with enclosure and after market parts

vocal flax
coarse coral
#

Handhelds for me

#

Nice to get a single piece for front and back and not have to break it into 4. Maybe I'm weird

#

That being said I'm working with rpi form factor

#

So with that in mind plus the screen I can get 50mm each side for hands to hold , until I figure out a new layout

#

For now it matches my beginner needs

#

When I learn PCB design and use cm5 it will be different but today it is what it is

inner cedar
#

Enclosures and racks and stuff

#

Also large numbers of things at once instead of smaller batches

faint sky
#

Well my first big print i actually had to cut in 4 sections at a total of 12” it was 3” bigger than my bed.

#

I outgrew my build volume on day 1.

#

Im currently gathering parts to do an approximate 600mm y-axis extension mod on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. Ender extender doesn’t make kits for the S1 Pro due to the big plastic housing. I have to modify it myself.

#

Why 600 when i only need 320 realistically? Growth, someday i might to print a sword, or maybe a robot, who knows.

elder oxide
#

I was outgrown of my Ender 3 Pro before it even arrived. I have big ambitions lol

coarse coral
coarse coral
faint sky
#

2020 extrusion is sufficient for an enclosure and easy to put together.

coarse coral
#

Could you tell me what 2020 extrusion is? Can I Google this?

faint sky
#

600mm handheld 😂 maybe a giant ds or switch?

coarse coral
#

Haha u kno it makes sense

#

I play golf with an oversized club so why not play games that is oversized 🤣

faint sky
#

Just holding it would wear your arms out. Technically handheld but more like armheld.

coarse coral
#

Exactly ha to be clear I wouldn't really do that unless it was a show piece

#

A giant handheld on your wall would be cool tho with LEDs

#

Maybe an LCD with pixel art

faint sky
#

2020 and 4020 is the aluminum barstock 3d printers are mainly built with these days. Your CR6 is made out of 4040 and 2040.

#

20mmx40mm is the profile dimensions.

coarse coral
#

I see

#

I still don't see how that becomes an enclosure? Just utilise it with some smaller prints to make the enclosure ?

faint sky
#

You buy it in long lengths and make a cube to surround your printer.

#

Ender 5 is a good example but thats built into the design.

coarse coral
#

Just seen a couple of ideas on yt. Reminded me I probably don't need an enclosure at the moment

faint sky
coarse coral
#

Pla is all I'm printing with and tiny tpu projects

faint sky
#

Something similar to building that.

coarse coral
#

Yeh that's what I'd go for

#

Some people are using pop up photo booths made of canvas and can be bought for £15

faint sky
#

Ive seen those, no idea if they work or not. Haven’t looked into enclosure stuff yet. I can print petg without one so i don’t really have an incentive to.

inner cedar
#

Enclosure isn’t necessary at all for PLA, but helps keep things cleaner (printing crap from getting out, dust getting in)

#

I use a box from my laser printer for my MP10 enclosure

faint sky
#

Thats a good point. PETG does create a lot of hairlike dust everywhere due to the higher temps. I don’t have that issue with PLA. PETG in your lungs would not be good.

#

Well anything in your lungs other than air isn’t good.

inner cedar
#

PETG I’ve also found issues with open air printing in terms of adhesion and warping

faint sky
#

Same but I got lucky one day with a really good tram, z-offset, nozzle temp, and bed temp. It was like all the stars aligned. That's the only way I'd ever be able to do a full volume mailbox in PETG.

#

I've had so much practice with tramming and z-offset lately I can tell if it's 0.05 off by looking at the purge line.

#

Which is a valuable skill so you don't waste a single bit of filament more than you have to if it's going to fail.

#

Luck/skill sometimes these things go hand in hand with 3D printers. They have moods.

rough trout
faint sky
#

What temps are you using for nozzle and bed? I use 250C/90C. My printer really likes a nice hot bed. All printers are different though.

rough trout
faint sky
#

I use 20% cooling after the first layer.

#

I did a temp tower, retraction tower, and cooling tower. The calibration shapes plugin from cura is very helpful for dialing in your settings.

rough trout
#

Looking better so far!

IMG_2355.jpg
faint sky
#

Oh a flashforge. Very nice.

#

Yep looking good so far.

rough trout
# faint sky Oh a flashforge. Very nice.

I think we've had this machine for 6 or 7 years, and it's still going strong! It has some ringing due to the carriage weight but it prints pretty much the same as day 1, which is pretty impressive. The only thing I really want out of it is for it to be quieter, so I ordered some of these: https://github.com/lty1993/SilentBotStep

GitHub
GitHub - lty1993/SilentBotStep: TMC2209 based drop-in replacement s...

TMC2209 based drop-in replacement stepper driver board for Makerbot / Mightyboard / Flashforge. - GitHub - lty1993/SilentBotStep: TMC2209 based drop-in replacement stepper driver board for Makerbot...

faint sky
#

My printer has one of the new silent boards. Its very quiet in my bedroom. I fall asleep with it on all the time. The new silent stuff is definitely the way to go.

rough trout
vocal flax
faint sky
#

It is a belt printer 😉

#

the inertia though 😬

rough trout
#

Ok, so before I said the quality on my Flashforge is as good as day 1, but that may have been a lie. The latest print is ok but the texture looks bad. In the pic, the only movement that was occurring would have been the X axis, yet its not smooth. Is this a belt tensioning issue perhaps?

IMG_2357.jpg
vocal flax
#

Looks like ringing. Belts are likely the culprit. In general anything that lowers rigidity can be the reason

rough trout
vocal flax
#

Assuming torque lose isn't significant enough to cause problems, microstepping helps

rough trout
#

Hmmmm, I could temporarily remove the second extruder's stepper motor and see if the ringing goes away too

arctic dragon
#

Lowering max acceleration is an option as well. I believe you can change this in some slicers?

viral needle
#

If I have to swap filament in order to continue a print What I have and he adhesion issues if I swapped it from white PLA to wood PLA?

rough trout
faint sky
#

old printers, rubber belts... they do stretch. print doesn't look bad though. spend 2 minutes on reddit and see all the people with massive issues and you'll be like "wow my prints are perfect compared to those"

rough trout
#

Oh don’t get me wrong, the prints are totally serviceable. Looking through some older prints, the machine has always had ringing and “salmon skin” but it seems more severe after the all-metal hotend upgrade.
The thing with belts is that there doesn’t seem to be a solid metric on the proper tension. I know there are apps that measure the harmonic frequency if you “pluck” the belt but that’s also pretty dependent on the length of the belt. I guess the answer is “tighten it until it binds, then back it off a bit?”

astral dragon
# faint sky

I built one my own with alu profiles. It's for my Prusa mini and MK3. Even with PLA it has advantages: Less dust, it's safe from touching accidenally when working in the same room/workshop. I have storage under the printer so it's more compact. The Prusa enclosure is good but came out some weeks after I built my one.

novel aspen
rough trout
novel aspen
#

(I've never done printing before by the way)

#

Is there any harm in using adhesive?

rough trout
#

Um, it might actually stick too much

#

I've had that happen- you end up ruining the print sometimes trying to get it off the plate

novel aspen
#

so should I try printing without the adhesive first?

#

(I am currently in a deep analysis paralysis state if that wasn't clear... help me)

vocal flax
#

When heated prints stick to pei

#

When cooled they unstick

#

If it has automatic bed leveling confirm the z offset and you should be good to go

rough trout
rough trout
novel aspen
#

...and can I print with "PLA+" plastic on a printer designed for PLA?

arctic dragon
arctic dragon
#

You may need to adjust the temperature set points slightly to match the manufacturer recommendations but otherwise they’re basically equivalent.

novel aspen
#

alright, so to start I'd need...

  • the printer
  • PLA filament
  • adhesive (just in case)
  • a microSD card
rough trout
#

Honestly I would not buy adhesive

#

Unless you're printing on glass, you won't need it

#

Looks like it also comes with an SD card

arctic dragon
#

Really no need for adhesive on PEI

#

If the bed is leveled properly, you should have pretty consistent results

novel aspen
#

alright, thanks everyone

faint sky
#

PLA+ has no advantages for a beginner. it's kind of a niche filament for those who don't have printers capable of the tougher PETG variants to find a little middle gound.

#

for a beginner PLA is hard enough to master and durable enough for practically anything you want to do. in most cases PLA actually outperforms PETG except for outdoor or high UV applications.

#

PETG is also more chemical resistant. saw someone printing gasoline canister lids with it. apparently PETG is ok with gasoline/ethanol.

#

PLA is great for rapid prototyping and iterative design. PETG is when you want something hard as a lego and more resistant.

#

3D printers today are kind of designed around the concept of using PLA filament for a reason, it's an excellent material.

vocal flax
#

In my experience pla+ is harder to get good results, while bringing minimal to the table.

shy kelp
#

I don't know maybe it's because I am happy with crappy results, but I did not found petg that hard vs pla

#

Pla though if I am not wrong has gone cheaper 10 euros for a kg spools vs 20 for petg

vocal flax
#

Does anyone know reprap style well documented sls printer?

arctic dragon
vocal flax
#

As far as I understand that's laser cutter conversion which makes it. Less affordable 😞

arctic dragon
#

I never thought I’d hear “affordable” in the context of SLS haha

vocal flax
#

Well i actually wanted to say less desirable

arctic dragon
#

To be fair, the last build here was dated 2020. Laser modules have become cheaper and more accessible, but it wouldn’t be a trivial task to update a build to accommodate newer laser cutters. Some of your own design work would be a requirement for something as niche as a DIY SLS printer.

vocal flax
#

Don't really want to retro fit things into a machine which I have to reverse engineer

arctic dragon
#

The laser and motion stage is actually the cheaper and easier part of SLS these days. It’s the bed, powder management, and enclosure that separates a good SLS machine from a mediocre one.

vocal flax
#

It's diy ofc it's worse than commercial mediocre SLS 😄 😁 😄

arctic dragon
#

Powder is freaking annoying to deal with.

vocal flax
#

It would be nice to catch at least 10% of the unique finish and texture of SLS

arctic dragon
#

I mean, you might not even need a laser cutter. I wonder if a laser engraver has enough output power to melt most non-metal powders…

#

Looks like you can melt nylon powder with a laser engraver. That means it might be possible to use an even cheaper system as a base.

vocal flax
#

I think one of those super fast fiber lasers would work

#

With minimal moving parts

#

It should be pretty good

arctic dragon
#

Fiber lasers are crazy expensive though. If they were cheap, everyone would have a laser cutter already haha

elder oxide
#

A number of smaller maker business have them and they are so neat

rough trout
elder oxide
rough trout
#

Nice, I got a diode laser engraver/cutter recently, which cuts a surprising amount of stuff for its power & cost

timid birch
#

bruh

#

these past couple days I’ve been working on this project

#

and one of the parts keeps printing with like very poor wall quality on one side

#

I’ve changed absolutely every factor I could and was still getting weird prints

#

I just opened the print head up today and found this

#

left is what my bambu nozzle/hotend assembly looked like

vestal thicket
#

Oh that's not good. And my Bambu arrives Thursday, I'm a bit excited

timid birch
#

yeah its an awesome printer if you dont bend the nozzle on accident haha

lunar oar
#

[Slicer: Cura] Anyone know how to get rid of the scaring during ironing? I have monotonic layers on and nothing has worked yet

Screenshot_86.png
faint sky
#

You have to get layer height just perfect in order to iron nicely. I have the same issue and wish I knew. If you figure it out let me know.

#

It's not a top height issue as in some cases i'll do 3-5 and in others 7-10 layers.

#

I've actually done it with combing off too and it doesn't make much of a difference.

#

It really depends on the slicer and how it slices that final top layer and the moves it makes. Lately I've gone to concentric because for large open spaces it prints a pretty pattern with less traveling.

#

Make sure z-hop is on, that definitely helps for situations where things start to warp a little bit to cause nozzle grinding but not enough to cause a failed print. It's better to have it on just in case.

elder oxide
#

Fantastic!

coarse coral
#

Now even tho I am printing a gcode called "finalcut" everything will still be a prototype 😂

rough trout
faint sky
#

final_prototype_3_beta4.1

#

i'm on like v83 of the tr-cowbell enclosure

elder oxide
#

I’ve only been up to like v8 or v9 on my watch case mark 2

faint sky
#

well something as intricate and large as the tr-cowbell requires a lot of revisions.

elder oxide
#

Oh definitely

faint sky
#

it's why at some point i started making the pieces modular. redesigning the entire thing every time was inefficient but i learned a lot.

elder oxide
#

I mean, making a watch case was fairly intricate

#

I need to redo it to be smaller though

faint sky
#

that's true, your tolerances are much tighter. i can make really big holes and get away with it 🙂

elder oxide
#

Current version is a bit big still because of the battery needs

faint sky
#

@coarse coral congrats btw. that's awesome news. so the belt and stepper were all it was? that's gotta be a great feeling to print directly on the bed again.

#

kinda like trying to ride a bike with a wobbly wheel and getting good at it. once you get the new wheel you're off to the races.

elder oxide
#

But the next version really won’t be RP since I’m going with a Nordic chip

faint sky
#

any particular reason other than the obvious BLE?

elder oxide
#

Lower power, smaller battery

#

RP2040 doesn’t have great low power performance

coarse coral
#

I'm glad to have stopped using glue that's the big one

crimson merlin
#

well thats a first. My bowden tube popped out of the extractor.

#

Went to check my print-it was done alright but there was nothing there lol 😅 Found out the tube popped itself out.

crimson merlin
#

Oh, turns out. Its a bad coupling. Or what ever the thing is called

#

It holds the bowden tube on the extractor.

coarse coral
#

Good for you to verify that, what printer do u have?

crimson merlin
coarse coral
#

I wonder if it's the same as mine which doesn't actually have coupling they just sit on top of each other

#

Chep has a fix for it if that's the case

crimson merlin
#

The coupler was bad-the tube just kept sliding. Luckily I had an extra

#

Strange though. I dont print often.

#

🤷

coarse coral
#

He says it's a mod for ender 5 also

crimson merlin
#

Oh it wasnt the hot end, it was on the extruder

coarse coral
#

Oh I'm sorry you did say that

crimson merlin
#

but I'll check it out in the morn anyway

coarse coral
#

Brain fart

faint sky
#

That's a 2 year old video. It was probably true at the time but since the S1 Pro and other models have been released it's no longer true. The S1 Pro has an all metal hotend and doesn't use a PTFE tube.

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As for the advice in the video I have no idea, I've only ever used the S1 Pro, never used a printer with a bowden setup and after hearing all the maintenance nightmares not sure if I want to. So far the hotend on the S1 Pro has treated me right and never clogged since the day I got it.

cunning oyster
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Hi All - I finally picked up my first 3D printer. It's an Elegoo Neptune 2s. I've been doing some test prints - initially with PLA, but I have a great source for PETG, so I did a test print with that last night.

I'm pretty happy with the results. Anyone else lurking around here with a Neptune 2? Happy to take any guidance as I'm a total beginner in this arena.

IMG_0608.jpg IMG_0609.jpg
faint sky
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rocked it on the first print @cunning oyster very nice.

cunning oyster
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Thanks! I just took a shot at the printer settings based on some info I took from a reddit thread. Seems to be okay. I can see where this becomes a deep rabbit hole very easily.

vestal thicket
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Hey Jason! Yes, it's an easy rabbit hole. My 2nd printer is on the way...

cunning oyster
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Oh hey @vestal thicket! What do you have, and what's on order? Just curious...

vestal thicket
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I have an Ender 3v2 and a Bambu P1P on the way

cunning oyster
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Nice.

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I think this is printing well enough for my first real useful print. I have a project in mind, which was really the catalyst for this whole adventure.

rough trout
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Not bad at all for a first print, especially with PETG!

coarse coral
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Well my print has got a bow in it but strangely at the current layer it appears to be all level and the print will go on

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Definitely my support density and not the y axis motor issue @faint sky

coarse coral
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How can I get a bow like that yet current layer seems level

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🤯

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It actually looks like it just printed at an angle.

elder oxide
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I’d try to rotate the print 90°

coarse coral
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Thanks skerr I will in the future. So much plastic 350g

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I think it was Einstein who said doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity

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Also going to get .6mm nozzles again this length of print is too much to handle

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.4mm 80mms 28 hours

arctic dragon
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Large flat sections also have a tendency to warp if cooled too quickly. This is common across many units without enclosure, though it’s far more common for such a deformity to occur on the base layer of the print.

When printing these large prints, it helps to at least partially enclose the printer, to prevent breezes and retain heat. If you can’t get a box to cover the entire printer, try to at least find a way to get walls of some sort around the sides.

coarse coral
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Thanks hem, never really had warps and can't say if this is actually a warp I will give a close inspection when it's finished before removing supports. It's pla

sleek crag
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To answer the specific question, the current layer always prints level. When warping occurs, the new layers get squashed in those areas. If the warping is too severe, the nozzle crashes, and you get horrible noises, belts slipping, offset layers, and detached prints.

coarse coral
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Yeh that's what I was getting at, I'm surprised the current layer is still functional

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But I need to check that specific area in the slicer

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It's an unusual warp it looks like plastic is simply missing

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Slicer looks fine

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Had this very similar problem on the other side last week. Seem plastic and near identical warp

coarse coral
vocal flax
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Increasing top support binding layers or whatever that setting was could help with bow.
For that other thought, a when hotend lays the filament it pushes down or squirts left right etc. The heat from freshly molten filament and or nozzle can flex filament just enough to lay some plastic before it moves away. And in time it flexes less and less and gets leveled. At least this is what my observation is.

coarse coral
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This print has been a thing on those raised areas with support it failed last week on the right side almost identical to what it is this time on the left side. I think rather than increase support density I'll do what skerr suggested and rotate it next time

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And maybe for good measure find the binding setting if it doesn't increase plastic amount much

faint sky
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That sucks to see that happen. Once supports go theres no good way to save it. The rest of the print looks really good though!

coarse coral
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It will work honestly not sure with those supports so messed how it held together

rough trout
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What are you printing, BTW?

coarse coral
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Rpi handheld is the goal

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Using a model b

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And a Hodge podge of parts

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Fun project

faint sky
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Looks like a commercial grade print other than the warp issue. Congrats!

rough trout
coarse coral
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Has anyone done two filament prints? I set up a pause at layer script and the pause happened but when I did cold pull of old filament I got filament run out message and then it said "heat" but did nothing. So I did my pull and loaded and cancelled this message but the whole print cancelled. I then messed around with the gcode trying to get it to resume at that height but I couldn't get it to stick

rough trout
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I did a two filament print where I printed a diffuser in white, then a frame in black and I did it as two separate prints. When the first one finished, I told the bed to preheat, then loaded the second filament and told it to start the second print. Obviously the second print didn't originate from the build place, but the printer doesn't care

coarse coral
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When I say cold pull it actually hot , usually still at 200 ish. Not sure why I say cold at all I don't like cold either it can easily break within the Bowden

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Was your second print starting at the z height your first print finished at?

rough trout
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I saved the model that way and just make the slicer keep the second model at the given height (rather than dropping it down to the build plate)

coarse coral
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I use cura and there isn't a way to set it to start at specific z height unless editing gcode

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Whatever prints get added in slicer they always go to the build plate

rough trout
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Huh, you'd think there'd be some way to do it, that's strange

coarse coral
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Yeh I agree

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Got a weird hack for this to work need to trick the filament run out

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So just back load and remove from extruder rather than filament run out sensor

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And set standby temperature to 200

novel aspen
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and 10 meters of PLA

rough trout
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Awesome!!!

novel aspen
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the stupid delivery made two major dents in the package, clearly marked "FRAGILE"

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though the sheer amount of buffer material inside save the thing

rough trout
novel aspen
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Alright... I assembled the printer (Anycubic Kobra NEO) and it... doesn't turn on?

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  • The power cable is alright, I tried a different one as well
  • The connection is grounded
  • I have 220V in the wall so I set the switch accordingly
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  1. I plug it in
  2. I press the red switch from O to I
  3. The screen is black as night
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what could be the issue?

shy kelp
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Open it up and check connections, and if there's any output

novel aspen
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open it up -- as in?

shy kelp
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Wherever your electronics is

novel aspen
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what electronics in particular? the screen?

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the cable connecting to the screen?

shy kelp
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You should go by exclosure
If the connection is fine, it might be the power, if the power is fine, it might be the board
Hard to tell like this

novel aspen
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was it really that hard to add an LED indicating that the power is on ;-;

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now I have to find my multimeter, some thin wire and potentially ruin the thing

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the instruction is maximally unhelpful as well

novel aspen
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ok I have probed the uhh the thing

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motherboard gets appropriate voltage, display gets appropriate voltage

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I guess I'll just wait for the anycubic support to respond

rough trout
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You can try flashing firmware to the machine but waiting for support might be best

coarse coral
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On my stock cr6 I tried printing at 150mms and a .8mm nozzle. Two things happened, it sounded very noisy when moving on the y axis which made me feel the stepper motors just couldn't cope and two when laying down support after a few layers the imprecision was enough to knock the single support lines offset and thus had it went longer than an hour there would have been problems likely to damage my printer as is and the print itself

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yeh if it's doa that's not a good thing, they might just send you a new power supply

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be prepared to maintain some parts, these fdm printers of which i've had 2 now some times have 'issues'

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i had thermal runout on every print on my first ender 3 and bad arcing on the psu. that was too much for me to handle and ultimately got returned after only a small number of successful prints, however my second printer cr6 is pretty solid, i've had to replace some stock parts with stock replacements from manufacturer but overall it's doing what it's supposed to. 3d printing is a learning curve, some prints just wont come out well until you adjust settings, re-level, calibrate your printer etc

coarse coral
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as an fyi i've had decent results with eono as a cheaper pla under £15 usually for 1kg

shy kelp
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Didn't cura slicer had a way to array a selection?

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found it nvm

gentle grail
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I recently had a clog and plastic got all over the hotend. Managed to clean it out with clippers and acetone.

Somehow this connection got broken - either I clipped it unwittingly or it was already broken from the plastic mess.

Either way, is it safe to solder it back together and use shrink tubing, or will shrink tubing be at risk of catching on fire being that close to the hotend?

It's a CR-5 Pro H, and max temp is 300°

PXL_20230315_012308858.jpg
frank valve
frank valve
# gentle grail I recently had a clog and plastic got all over the hotend. Managed to clean it o...

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9tppms/soldering_thermistor_wires/ hmm this brings up a good point about the solder itself perhaps not being able to handle it if too close. I'd probably take caution and just get a new thermistor with it that close myself but will defer to others here as this is a newer subject to me as well (with it this close to the hotend). Perhaps given the kapton tape insulates heat it would be fine here though.

reddit
r/3Dprinting - Soldering Thermistor Wires?

2 votes and 7 comments so far on Reddit

vocal flax
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Heat shrink doesn't melt but it smells bad at high temps (when burning) that's probably not good for human health

faint sky
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If the thermistor breaks you should replace it. Using solder to attempt a repair on a safety device that can reach burning temperatures is generally not a good idea.

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The thermistor wire is physically connected inside the housing. If it breaks the entire thermistor should be replaced.

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If the thermistor was in an environment that's around 120C it might be ok to use solder. Anything that breaches the 130C barrier needs replacing generally speaking in any consumer electronics.

novel aspen
proud root
proud root
honest kindle
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i cannot get my 3D printer to work correctly

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Ender 5 PLUS

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3rd board

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this time magnetic beause all the glass ones fd up

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it's literally a 0,02mm difference all over the board when it measures. It's so greatly built that there's literally no way it ould f up but it doesn't stick and ive tried all the settings.

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Do you have any way I an fix my board guys? 🙂

potent thunder
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Do you mean "bed" and not "board"?

honest kindle
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I have no idea. I've tried everything to make a few of my cases and something always breaks

elder oxide
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Any recommendations for SLA printers?

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I don’t think I need anything big, I was looking at the creality one that’s 5.96” for the build plate

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Okay, just went with the creality one

potent thunder
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I'm happy with my ender 3 pro

elder oxide
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Need to spruce up my modeling skills to make a gameboy color case

elder oxide
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This is the best print quality I’ve ever got out of my Ender 3 Pro

70087981044__3B9AA083-9F71-4C29-B93A-06B1F41011E6.jpg 70087991503__FCA920D5-8856-4914-836B-24286FDD1E0D.jpg
potent thunder
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I think yo can buy GB/GBC/GBA clear cases.

elder oxide
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you can, but I want to make my own 🙂

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it's more based around the fact that I want to get better at designs, not so much that I need the cases.

potent thunder
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Well there are a lot of really good Fusion 360 tutorials on YouTube. Really helpful. I used 360 to design an adapter for an out of production part for Project Tom Celica our 1985 Toyota Celica. 3D printed the prototype on the Ender 3

elder oxide
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I've designed some pretty nuanced parts, though I want to do more assemblies like you'd expect for cases.

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this was a friction fit case design for a watch I designed

potent thunder
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PiPBoy