GBA SP power jack replacement

[elder steeple]

While attempting to replace my broken jack on my sp, 2 of the pads were damaged. Any suggestions on repairing this?

[topaz topaz]

Photos please

[elder steeple]

I’m at school rn, I can send photos later

I believe pins 4 and 6 have missing pads

6 is the most right pin on the jack ( not support pins)

Not my picture, but where those two wires are soldered are where the pads are missing

[topaz topaz]

photos please

[elder steeple]

I’ll send you a photo when I get home

[elder steeple]

I’m home, going to take the photo

[topaz topaz]

Why did you take it off in the first place?

[elder steeple]

It was damaged, so I needed to replace it

This happened while trying to replace the old jack with a new one

[topaz topaz]

So you have a replacement port?

[elder steeple]

Yea, multiple

[topaz topaz]

Okay, well the pins missing are audio and ground. So unless you plan on using audio, i would just solder a replacement port on and omit the two pins

[elder steeple]

I don’t plan on using the audio

[topaz topaz]

Wait i have them reversed. Its actually left and right audio missing

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/960085168612323328/998460164652941322/GBASP_ChargePortPinout01.jpg

As long as pin 2 is there you should be good

[elder steeple]

It is

[topaz topaz]

But clean up the pads first. Use some flux and solder wick and get them nice and shiny

Remember not to drag the wick across the pads

[elder steeple]

I don’t have any flux by itself, I have some solder that has flux core

[topaz topaz]

What about wick?

[elder steeple]

I do have that

I found a old serial cable with 26awg wire, will that work?

[topaz topaz]

for what?

[elder steeple]

The pins

[topaz topaz]

If you dont care about audio, you dont need pin 1 and 3

[elder steeple]

Okay

So solder 2 and 6?

[topaz topaz]

for charging you'll only need 6 and 2. And 6 is kind of optional as the two anchors are ground too

[elder steeple]

Okay

[topaz topaz]

Might as well solder the pins you have for extra stability

[elder steeple]

Guess I’m not as ducked as I thought

[topaz topaz]

do you have a meter?

[elder steeple]

Yeah

[topaz topaz]

then check for continuity between the hole and pad 2 as in the image.. the red line

[elder steeple]

K

About 5 ohm resistance

[topaz topaz]

nono continuity

[elder steeple]

I always forget which symbol that one is

[topaz topaz]

Does your meter have that mode?

[elder steeple]

Probably, just not sure which one sets it

[topaz topaz]

doesnt look like it has one

well then put it in resistance mode and 20

[elder steeple]

I have a different meter, can send a pic

[topaz topaz]

it should show 1 on the meter, and 0 when putting the pins together?

[elder steeple]

Yes, it does

[topaz topaz]

Great, try it out on the board

[elder steeple]

20k mode?

[topaz topaz]

should be fine

[elder steeple]

or 20 dcv

Guessing 20k

0.03

[elder steeple]

Yes

[topaz topaz]

So since you dont have any flux, the wick wont suck the excessive solder as good. But you could give it a go. What kind of iron do you have?

[elder steeple]

I can take a pic

It’s a cheaper iron, but it works fine enough

[topaz topaz]

does it have variable heat setting?

[elder steeple]

Yes

It’s cheap but not that cheap

[topaz topaz]

Right, so put it on around 300-330 and try to clean up the pads

do you have any other tips?

[elder steeple]

Yes

[topaz topaz]

any wider?

[topaz topaz]

these two with some wick might be your best bet

just remember not to drag the wick!

[elder steeple]

this one probably the best I think

[elder steeple]

👍

[topaz topaz]

You need a tip with wider heat transfer

the pointy ones wont do great

[elder steeple]

This one is probably good, not sloped like the other one

[topaz topaz]

thatll work yes

[elder steeple]

Ok, 330 f

Wait no

The iron has celcius

So 330 celcius

[topaz topaz]

:)

dont hold the iron on the pads for more than a couple of seconds

3s max

[elder steeple]

Mine goes up by 25 intervals, so I’ll do the mark between 300 and 350

[topaz topaz]

better start at 300 and see if that does the trick

[elder steeple]

yeah, the lower you can go the better

[topaz topaz]

its better not to burn the board

[elder steeple]

of course

Before I solder the new jack in place I’ll probably want to clean the area with ipa to clean any extra flux

[topaz topaz]

Yes but first clean the pads

[elder steeple]

Yea

Does this look clean enough

Definitely cleaner than before

[topaz topaz]

Kinda sorta.. try running the iron over the pads so they become more bobbly

Do you have some kapton tape?

[elder steeple]

No

[topaz topaz]

Any electric tape at all?

[elder steeple]

Can check

[topaz topaz]

You might want to cover up those caps and the cpu pins

[elder steeple]

That would be good

[topaz topaz]

But yes the pads look better. The flatter and smoother the better

[elder steeple]

What’s with those pads near u2? Are those no connect?

[topaz topaz]

For different revisions of the SP

[elder steeple]

I got a tiny bit of solder on a few of them a while back

I see

[topaz topaz]

uuuh thats not good

[elder steeple]

yeah

[topaz topaz]

Clean that if you can with the wick

[elder steeple]

It’s only a problem if any of the pins are shorted together

[topaz topaz]

You should really get some flux

[elder steeple]

I’ll put it on the list

[topaz topaz]

uff :(

Leave it until you get some flux

[elder steeple]

Okay

[topaz topaz]

dont want end up putting more on there :)

[elder steeple]

yeah

[topaz topaz]

So hows the pads?

[elder steeple]

looking a bit better

Okay, so you think I should wait on this until I get some flux and kapton tape?

[topaz topaz]

Depends on you :) If you feel like you can do it without all the safety nets then try.. But if you can wait until you get some flux then do that

[elder steeple]

yeah