post about climbing and mountaineering.
#rock climbing and mountaineering
lucid cairn
So I had some fun today, cruised a 5.11 that I could not do before when I was young. Also fell off a hard climb, and met a really nice eastern European women she was funny.
rock climbing and mountaineering
Pic of me going the wrong way on a climb
hushed sage
Just got back from a 5.10b trad multipitch. 4 pitches going at 5.9, 5.5, 5.9, 5.10b (i lead the 5.5)
The 5.10 was the pictured roof, where you traverse from left to right and the crux is pulling over the roof laybacking on high feet and a thin vertical rail
hushed sage
Cathedral Ledge, NH. The route is called Atlantis
Cathedral Ledge and White Horse Ledge are right next to each other and absolutely amazing
Tall, clean, beautiful views
lucid cairn
Oooooo
hushed sage
Also easy approach
lucid cairn
<33
hushed sage
The leaves are just starting to turn
lucid cairn
What's the climbs name
hushed sage
Atlantis
lucid cairn
The leaves are just starting to turn
Yes yes omg
hushed sage
All good
lucid cairn
No hands knee bar
lucid cairn
hushed sage
Very dank
lucid cairn
I lead a 10a and I was seeing if a 10c next to it was reasonable
Turns out it would be scary as hell and I'd need to make hard moves with the gear at my feet
lucid cairn
looking at potentially leading a spicy 5.12c R I was able to crank the crux. But you need to do a big dyno with your gear below your feet.
Here it is in all it's scary glory
Although I need to get in much much better shape to make that viable
Both mental and physical
hushed sage
I've been training a lot harder the last few weeks and I'm signed up for this outdoor bouldering comp on Saturday:
https://ladiesclimbingcoalition.com/rhode-island-ripper/
I'm stoked, ready to rip
Last time I went outside i was crushing V2 and below 100% of the time so i entered the V3-V5 bracket. My goal is to land a few V4s
My partner and her friend are going so i rented a few large crash pads to make it less intense
Hard to sell people on the ol' "nah man, one pad is fine, you just need to be really aware and have a good spotter" bit
I'm interested to see if trad has changed how i perceive bouldering
They're similar in some ways but also very different
I'm a boulder boy at heart
I'm so stoked. I haven't been to a comp in like two years
I used to compete in undergrad on my uni's club team
And I've only done one outdoor comp and it was so much fun
lucid cairn
Holy crap man good luck that sounds awesome post your progress
hushed sage
Yeah I'll try to take some good pics and vids at the comp
lucid cairn
Yesss
hushed sage
We had a great time
I climbed a ton of V2s and like one V3 but i was in the V3-V5 bracket so I got wrecked
But my partner climbed her first V2 and it was a fucking dope route
She crushed a lot of V0s and V1s
Poptart
lucid cairn
Oh my gosh that's such a cool feature
hushed sage
Lincoln woods was actually insane
lucid cairn
Oooo
hushed sage
We barely walked like a quarter mile from where we parked and climbed all day on good shit
lucid cairn
Have you ever climbed Whitney gillmen ridge?
hushed sage
Actually yeah, that was a long term goal of mine when I moved here, and it ended up being my first trad follow on the east coast
hushed sage
That would be insane, but it is really chill
Lots of flat parts where you can stand around and chill
lucid cairn
It doesn't seem horrible to solo from what I've heard
Honestly something like high exposer or modern times would be more scary
vast linden
blessed
lucid cairn
lucid cairn
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMk7_00Z8bY this goes so hard
cosmic fjord
Just established 2 FAs in Western Sichuan, close to the Tibetan border
Camp at 4700m, peak altitude 5150m
the peak we climbed is the "horn"-like feature on the left
as well as a seperate line directly up the side of the mountain
the name "20k Spire" is a reference to the Sichuan Mountaineering Association's 20k ($4k USD) fee for registering first ascents
and their extrajudicial attempt to "fine" a climber for an illegal first ascent
cosmic fjord
High energy male spotted he kept his head so cool even though I wouldn't hang my coat on the first 2 peaces of gear he didn't place anything good for like the first 40-35 feet
@lucid cairn this seam looks protectable if you cleaned it properly
not very high up but would at least stop a ground fall from the first committing move
also for the two pockets he protects above, using X2 cams and extended slings instead of nuts with draws would help a lot
cosmic fjord
@lucid cairn have you seen any of the videos about Walk of Life?
lucid cairn
<@541315991431282697> this seam looks protectable if you cleaned it properly
Yeah I don't know why he skipped it
lucid cairn
<@541315991431282697> have you seen any of the videos about Walk of Life?
Uh maybe idk
cosmic fjord
hushed sage
Just established 2 FAs in Western Sichuan, close to the Tibetan border
damn that's so badass. that walk off down the chute looks kinda gnarly
cosmic fjord
walking/sliding down is not so bad, even in the dark. Climbing up for the approach is the kinda freaky bit
cosmic fjord
thanks ♥️
welcome to visit and repeat
anyone else watching?
some pretty wild beta in the women's boulder finals
lucid cairn
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxIhHb8TePA
Goes hard
lucid cairn
Lmfao
lucid cairn
Tried to do a pullup and a hang on a 6.35 mm edge ended up not going to good
I was able to hang for one second and did 2/3irds of a pullup not trying this again I don't want to snap a pulley
hushed sage
ouchie but also badass
loud galleon
Tried to do a pullup and a hang on a 6.35 mm edge ended up not going to good
I ...
what a grip…
cosmic fjord
Tried to do a pullup and a hang on a 6.35 mm edge ended up not going to good
I ...
Don't make the gumby mistake lmao
lucid cairn
I won't hurt my self
lucid cairn
5.12d called dark continent
undocumented climb
no info online except for a film of it that's hard to find
I was able to find it in under 3 minutes, by cross referencing the lake from the drone shot with a lake on google maps.
Notice the shape of the lake and cliff also notice the road and how it turns. Also you can see the brown lake in the background just slightly.
Hyper zoomer wins again
quasi mauve
Insane
lucid cairn
I should make reinforced sky hooks so I can do a climb safely that would be so based I could 100% do it with my dad
There's a climb I could safely do with sky hooks and if I didn't have them it would be pretty r rated
cosmic fjord
sky hooks
free climbing safely
uhhh
I don't think that's how you're supposed to use hooks g
lucid cairn
Seems like your not cool enough to be sky hook pilled
lucid cairn
No way it happened again
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/802272368298950656/1037898259059978310/02b064326363a0e5a8721f7b98be2133--lynn-hill-artificial-intelligence.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/767405431257038859/1038220340368773201/IMG_20220729_095328_948.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/767405431257038859/1038220223263801434/IMG_20220729_095510_452.jpg
Lynn hill "artificial intelligence" found though pics i took while randomly wondering though the woods
Its a 100% match
lucid cairn
@quasi mauve
quasi mauve
but heres the climber
cosmic fjord
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/802272368298950656/1037898259059978310/02...
why is the documentation of Gunks routes so poor?
lucid cairn
why is the documentation of Gunks routes so poor?
A lot of small crags that people want to keep to them selves
vast linden
do people hog cliffs?
lucid cairn
Lmao
They want to concentrate people in so they have the good hard stuff to them selves
hushed sage
fml i think i yoinked a pulley being stupid today
i don't think it's bad but i probably won't climb on it for a while
i guess it's time to start spending my gym sessions weightlifting
get massive
hushed sage
i was warming up bouldering and tried a route with some pockets
they were way more shallow than i expected
it was stupid and totally preventable
fuck it hurts to type
lucid cairn
Go to a doctor.
lucid cairn
Climbing is a gay sport
quasi mauve
unreal
last crater
I wish I wasn't sick so I could go hiking this weekend 😦
lucid cairn
I wish I wasn't sick so I could go hiking this weekend 😦
Aw, where do you hike?
lucid cairn
quasi mauve
climbin
cosmic fjord
all gyms in Beijing closed :sad:
lucid cairn
Why omg :c
cosmic fjord
mass lockdowns
lucid cairn
Wow why are things so tense
cosmic fjord
cos it's the biggest outbreak of covid nationally, and tight restrictions across the whole country
but meanwhile everyone can see millions of people gathering for the world cup without masks on
plus covid deaths are at all time low
lucid cairn
Omg sounds crazy
lucid cairn
https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/121681855_large_1637700015.jpg only image of an awesome looking line called toys for tots about 13b/c
Sadly shit quality
left mortar
hey gremlin...some nice photos in here
lucid cairn
Thank you!!!
cosmic fjord
late to update but finished my 2nd project for this year
cosmic fjord
曲径通幽 5.12a
lucid cairn
What dose it mean?
cosmic fjord
it means "through a winding path to a destination with a beautiful view"
no climbing snaps, but have some sleeping+post-clean pics
route itself is fairly soft for a 5.12a, the first crux is in the obvious blank section with lots of chalk holds, really technical face section
lucid cairn
Oh my gosh dose that crack go on trad ashame that it's bolted
cosmic fjord
and the 2nd crux is at the lip where the rope is running over in my photo, undercling in tiny crack with bad feet up to a sloper
"crack"
it's less than a cm wide and even shallower lmao
lucid cairn
That looks like a super fun wow
cosmic fjord
upper section could be sent with a lot of small cams
lucid cairn
Ooo
cosmic fjord
bottom section is uh
lucid cairn
Mixed line?
cosmic fjord
a lot blanker than it looks
cosmic fjord
tbh the main difficult part is clipping at the 2nd crux
after I extended the draw over the lip with a sling it got a lot easier lmao
the almost tempted to say the 5.11a slab I finished last month was harder
vast linden
it means "through a winding path to a destination with a beautiful view"
wtf whys your filename so poetically touching
cosmic fjord
wtf whys your filename so poetically touching
that's the name of the route lmao
the old school climbers in Beijing all like to use chengyu for route names
cosmic fjord
曲径通幽 = route name
5.12a = assigned difficulty
vast linden
i love the literal translations like the one you did
cosmic fjord
i thought you named your photography files that
haha no, but that would be fun
vast linden
it feels really vulnerable and sincere
cosmic fjord
we should make one of those facebook quizzes
"literally translated chengyu or file host url"
lucid cairn
it means "through a winding path to a destination with a beautiful view"
Awwww
hushed sage
I am going on a big winter hike today
Busting out the crampons
Just got new hiking boots
We might summit Mount Washington but probably will just scout out this potential ice climbing destination that's on the way
We are behind schedule and getting breakfast burritos
lucid cairn
Very cool
hushed sage
Dankness report: very dank
We tried to ascend Tuckerman Ravine (the last pic) but it was too gnarly to do without proper crampons and axes so we had to circle back and take the long way to the summit
hushed sage
I'm relatively new to winter summitting and it was awesome
cosmic fjord
Looks chill 👍
hushed sage
My finger is progressing on the road to recovery
Hurt my pulley about a month ago
I can climb most 5.7s (albeit very carefully) now
And I'm able to weightlift somewhat comfotably
Recently i discovered i can apply small amounts of pressure directly to the finger without pain
So I'm on my way
Just gotta take it slow
Hopefully by next summer I'll be in trad condition
lucid cairn
Yes listening to your body is most important
hushed sage
Yeah I'm just relieved to finally see progress
Even if it's slow I can finally believe that it will get better
And hopefully weightlifting will get me shredded
hushed sage
Jesus i looked him up and he has climbed 5.14a free solo
That's so insane
Got any recommendations for exercises to try while I'm recovering?
I'm just exploring the weight room rn
Getting into deadlifting and doing ring routines and some other random shit with dumbbells
Tried some box jumps last time
lucid cairn
Got any recommendations for exercises to try while I'm recovering?
Open hand grip for holds
I don't really have anything you don't already know
lucid cairn
No no no ohhhh no no no
lucid cairn
He's a YouTuber that ive made posts making fun of on the discord he joined
hushed sage
Yesterday I did my first hangboard routine since injuring my pulley in November. Climbed my first 5.10 since the injury too.
I'm reaching the point where I can apply relatively large loads to the finger, which makes me nervous but is also very exciting
I think I'm going to try and slow the pace of my climbing progression and focus on hangboard sessions. I'd like to strengthen my finger in a controlled environment before I start pulling on harder routes again
hushed sage
I found this blog and I'm tentatively using it to help me shape a hangboard routine:
http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/07/fingerboard-training-guide-iii-periodization-samples-of-maxhangs-training-programs-.html
lucid cairn
I found this blog and I'm tentatively using it to help me shape a hangboard rout...
focus on the 3 finger drag grip
lucid cairn
I think I'm going to try and slow the pace of my climbing progression and focus ...
thats a good idea
hushed sage
First time ice climbing this morning was a success
hushed sage
First Backcountry ski sesh ever was a success. Just hiked our ordinary skis up the trail to Tuckerman Ravine and skied back to the parking lot on Sherburne trail
The trail was pretty chill but had a lot of jumps and some technical stuff. It was much steeper than it looks in the pic, I swear
cosmic fjord
hushed sage
I'm really starting to recover. I'm cranking on hard V4s and V5s and my finger feels pretty much fine. Still holding onto my recovery mindset though. Also, I think my weight training is really helping my climbing, which is dope
Someone asked me to if i wanted to poke around at some cracks near Boston, and it reminded me that the season is approaching
I'm going excited to try out some of those full-body workout cracks again now that I'm actually in shape
cosmic fjord
@lucid cairn @hushed sage need some help with a translation
what would a climber say to compliment a fellow climber looks effortless on a climb they normally struggle on?
hushed sage
what would a climber say to compliment a fellow climber looks effortless on a cl...
I can't think of any climbing-specific slang for that right now... Things I might personally say: "you nailed it," "you flew through that," "you were in the zone," "that was perfect"
lucid cairn
what would a climber say to compliment a fellow climber looks effortless on a cl...
“wow you walked up that”
cosmic fjord
I can't think of any climbing-specific slang for that right now... Things I migh...
what if they're in the process of climbing?
hushed sage
Hm, I might say "you're looking great" or "you're looking strong." I don't think I really have specific terminology for this although now I want it
cosmic fjord
yeah I translated it as "looking strong", I was just wondering if there's a more idiomatic term
like we have terms like "dialled"
thanks to you both!
hushed sage
Oh shit, i totally forgot
Yeah we say "you've got it dialed"
That would be a good one in this context
cosmic fjord
might just go with that
it's not a direct translation but kind of works in the context
lucid cairn
yeah I translated it as "looking strong", I was just wondering if there's a more...
that would be a good term
saying they looked really strong on it
id blush if some one said that to me when i’m on an old project
grim scarab
cosmic fjord
My partner repointed her first 11a 👏
lucid cairn
yippeeeee!!!!
congratulations
tbh 11a is where things really get serious in the gunks at least so thats awesome
cosmic fjord
lucid cairn
she dose NOT know how to put on a harness
hushed sage
Gf got me belay glasses
grim scarab
Those seem like they would be useful for reading as well
cosmic fjord
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCz7AFRGKOI really enjoyed this video about tough tree climbing
pearl plaza
where is this? your biome is full of sharp looking leaves
kewl thread btw, here is me cleaning some 20 whose name i forget on the dreamtime wall in the grampians australia several years ago
(un)fortunately no longer permitted to climb in that area anymore because of the presence of aboriginal rock art
last crater
where is this? your biome is full of sharp looking leaves
Guam, yeah they're pretty sharp but as long as you don't grab them and pull they don't hurt you
hushed sage
I forgot to post that I went on my first multiplitch ice climb a few weeks ago
Also please nobody comment on that fucked up anchor missing the master point
I really liked it and I want to get into low angle ice
Like what a fantastic way to spend a weekend
Also, driving through the white mountains, I noticed for the first time that people were all over the faces climbing peaks via ice/mixed routes
Like, there's an insane amount of dope ice/mixed summits to do in the whites
I probably don't wanna get into anything super vertical for a while. I'd like to do a few seasons of good low angle stuff and work my way up to leading this
last crater
Beautiful views at Lam Lam today