One of the X8B got fucked up, the priming ended up kinda chalky, probably didn't rattle the can enough?
I like Karn and MoE - I enjoy using contrast/speed paints and I've been wanting to learn proper zenithal (no airbrush 😭 )
17 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
One of the X8B got fucked up, the priming ended up kinda chalky, probably didn't rattle the can enough?
I like Karn and MoE - I enjoy using contrast/speed paints and I've been wanting to learn proper zenithal (no airbrush 😭 )
Seems fine. I know @weary thicket has been doing a lot of zenithal combined with contrasts/speed paints so he could advise you better.
I normally only zenithal for a value sketch so can't comment much on the efficacy of yours for contrasts sorry!
What I recommend in terms of the way I do things is that if you want the zenithal to be from rattle can sure you can do it, shake the can for a good 4 min and submerge in warmish water , but what helped me a ton to be honest is priming black and then dry brushing white so that the model comes out like this, you can control the strongest light sources way easier, and using contrast is way easier as well
If you have any questions at all let me know!
Also if you already have those zenithaled and it's a bit like pitted or tacky on the texture just try dry brushing white it should smoothen out the paint, if it's too pitted you may need to sand and reprime brotha
Or isopropyl alcohol and reprime
My main question about the drybrushing part is:
First off, I understand paper towels/cloths are kinda bad cause they suck out too much moisture. I saw in Artis Opus using a little sponge and then removing most of the paint either on texture palette or on your own hand for instance, is that correct?
Second - what kind of motion do you do when drybrushing? I tried both top-down and left-right and it seems like I leave sort of streaks. I saw Artis Opus doing more circular ones, but I am not sure if it's good enough for smaller models?
If you're leaving streaks that means that the paint is too wet
What I do step by step is, I very lightly wet the tips of the dry brush and then dry it off on a paper towel with no paint on it, then I dab the ends and the corners of the top of the brush into the paint and then I unload it all onto my dry texture palette, if you don't have one unload a little bit onto a paper towel and then the rest on something like a glove or the back of your hand so you can see what type of coverage it is, then you can go at the mini knowing that there's no streaks from testing it on the dry palette or your hand or cardboard even
And you can use paper towels but be liberal with it I would rather you use a microfiber cloth or a old towel
Do not use retarder or any thin white paints
In terms of the motion of dry brushing, I go in circles around and around
I kind of feather it out, and then hit the spots directly I want with light more so
Very light pressure too
Gotcha, thanks a ton my GOAT, I'll give it a try soon!
Ofc bro if you have questions lmk! I really heavily recommend a texture palette either you make yourself or buy online cheap but it's next level for dry brushing, just prime and dry brush
Tbh extra sprues or just empty sprues cut up and glued to cardboard primed is good enough