3D Print Gulag

[fresh plume]

squidge make a box

[viscid violet]

A very specific box that'll be getting turned into an injection mold

And run in a $200k press lol

[mossy urchin]

Any of you got tips on making better parametric designs in fusion?
Technically I have my part designed but one parameter is an angle and for some reason that breaks a bunch of features in the timeline.
The Angle only changes the length of a curve but it seems it and the following features are not compatible with parameters

[viscid violet]

The best thing you can do is learn and practice your design intent and visualize the order by which the part is constructed.

A major part of it is knowing how to design your measurement reference planes to be tolerant of downstream changes.

If it angle is referenced off a plane or position that breaks with a change then it's gone. Referencing everything off centers goes a long way to keeping stuff intact but again design dependant.

It takes a lot of experience to do that kind of thing and there's not much else that can impart the knowledge but many years of mistakes

[brisk moth]

and mistakes you will make.

[viscid violet]

Not knowing your design its hard to offer any specifics.

For example, you may need to run the angle AFTER creating all the other features so that changing it simply changes the cuts through said features.

And pro tip: try to wait for the absolute last step to do any chamfers, rounds, or filets.

Could also be that the curve you referred to isnt configured to be tangent to the angle. If that's your intent.

Probably a dozen variations that are highly dependent on the exact geometry of your part

[humble terrace]

What's the phrase? Something like "Experience is the thing you gain just after you needed it"

[brisk moth]

tutorials can only teach you so much, you need to fuck it up yourself

[humble terrace]

Committing that sentence to memory.

[brisk moth]

the best scale is 12 inches to the foot

[viscid violet]

Big time life lesson. The people who seem to know everything spent a lot of time making and fixing mistakes.

[brisk moth]

thats not to say you cant learn a lot from watching other peoples mistakes, but there is no substitute for your own

[viscid violet]

Also true

That's for smart people though

The big dummies like me just messed up a whole lot

[humble terrace]

I may actually try to learn some "real" CAD in the next few months, have a project I wouldn't mind printing some smaller scale physical prototype models. I have an idea for a stupidly overcomplicated wood stove / tent stove. And I don't think my old stand-by OpenSCAD is the right choice.

[viscid violet]

Fusion 360 is free, its just hard to find the free download link lol

[brisk moth]

its been a while since I have fired f360 up, my free might have expired again

[tight river]

Yeah you gotta search for a hobby license or something

[fresh plume]

Yea sorry man I do solidworks so ill be 0 help with F360

[slender oasis]

its not free, you are the product

if I was going to do cad I would get a solidworks years sub when its on sale. the makers license often go's on sale for something almost resonable. would much rather find something that I can actually buy or opensource but not shit, but few options like that

I will stick to blender because I can do the kinds of things I need to in that just fine but I know its not ideal for functional parts

[brisk moth]

I know someone who does cad in blender, and I think they are insane 😆

[slender oasis]

I do cad like stuff in it

the biggest limitation is chamfers/bevels and similar features. they are hard to do on complex shapes in vertex modeling

[viscid violet]

ok.

[mossy urchin]

I think this is actually a big part of it.
Imo the design is fairly simple but features reference off-angle extrusions and I want it to be fully parametric.
Might need to reference 3D sketches instead, probably more stable 🤔
diameters, curve radius and angles and tolerances are paremetric

thanks to yall already for your suggestions.
Will fiddle with it some more.

[mossy urchin]

Actually the free download is still hidden behind an account login and about 5 Menus BUT the free version is actually not really handycapped.
10 editable designs at the same time and you can always mark/unmark projects as write-protected.
It really only hinders big time production use in huge assemblies

[mossy urchin]

There's CAD-ish plugins! Still insane tho

[viscid violet]

glad the advice at least pointed you in a direction. parametric modeling tips are kind of vague by necessity and it takes a level of expertise I don't have to be really clear about it lol

[tight river]

Yeah i never ran into limitations with the free F360, but I don't do a whole lot of modelling.

If you do big time production use with huge assemblies, hobby doesn't really qualify anymore 😜

[brisk moth]

I have too many projects I am procrastinating, so I hit the project limit without too much trouble. just meant I needed to stop and think "which of these am I procrastinating on the most?"

[tight river]

Sounds like it helps in your case

[brisk moth]

the answer ends up being "everything, except probably the one thing I am opening it to work on"

[tight river]

backlogs all 10 and starts a new one

[brisk moth]

I'm going to need to start another one soon. I am migrating my media pc from a laptop board to a minipc board and will need to rejigger the... everything for the case it ends up in (an old cd player)

[tight river]

Interesting choice for a case

[brisk moth]

one of these.
my dad had the mini system it went on the top of, but the belt died on the cd player (the two tape decks are I think both naff as well, I know one was when it got shelved for the room getting recarpeted). I then might have accidentally plugged the two harnesses in the wrong way wround after fixing the belt (I think it just popped off) and killed it...
so I jammed a miniitx board inside, then that got too long in the teeth and I crammed a laptop board inside. now its getting some flavour of probably lenovo minipc

[tight river]

That's pretty neat, wouldn't ever have guessed there's a computer in there

[brisk moth]

for me at least, thats one of the requirements for a computer under a TV. cant have it look like a computer 😆

[tight river]

And a console is too obvious

[brisk moth]

mine does have a hole pattern drilled on the right hand side for a 120mm fan though

[brisk moth]

my original plan was an xbox360 shell. that was what I got the miniitx board for originally (this was back when the x360 was still current). that ended up needing more complex fabrication work than I knew how to pull off

[tight river]

Dremel everything inside and start fresh😝

Looking at my console shelf. You could probably fit a mini mobo in an atari 2600 but it wouldn't leave much room for other stuff

[brisk moth]

I will be needing to design a few things for it. a mounting bracket, probably shared with the io shield/cover for it. a front usb panel (where the cd door goes, mine is currently floating around... somewhere), and maybe amount/duct for a bigger fan. none of it should be too difficult, just need to do it

[viscid violet]

Interesting choice. They make media center cases that look kinda like they belong there but that's certainly much more stealth.

[brisk moth]

those all cost money, and still look like a computer 😆

[viscid violet]

A lot of them look like stereo units but they definitely do cost money.

[viscid violet]

Be grateful that a consumer 3d printer nozzle leak is such a minor issue to fix lol

For scale that's about a meter in length

[tight river]

How do you even remove that?

[fresh plume]

heatgun.. paitence

pliars

and a willingness to repair wires

[viscid violet]

More or less yes. You in the industry?

[fresh plume]

I mean, sort of? We have 2 larger pellet extruder machines at work, and do alot of injection molding

I want to be in the industry but we dont have anywhere around here that has anything more for additive

[viscid violet]

That's what I mean. Injection molding. I've been doing this for 14 years now

My process tech got that cleaned up in about 4 hours. Needs to put the machine back together after lunch

[fresh plume]

oh nice

[viscid violet]

I did an apprenticeship and got my journeyman card in 2017. Master molder in 2018.

[fresh plume]

I dont do any of the actual production stuff with the machienes, I do engineering work on parts that need to be made hence the printers that use the same pellets we use for the molding

[viscid violet]

Neat

I get to put my two cents in on a lot of the designs in a pre-production state.

As the clown who has to mold the parts it goes a long way to solving problems before they show up.

[fresh plume]

Whats that material on there? PV?

[viscid violet]

That's low density polyethylene

Best case for a nozzle leak tbh

[fresh plume]

at least it wasnt HDPE

or UHMWPE

or ASA

[viscid violet]

Yeah. We've had our share of hdpe leaks.

Pp too

Even PSU once

[tight river]

Pp leaks come with age

[viscid violet]

TURNS OUT psu is pretty easy to deal with. Just soak it in acetone and smack it with a hammer

[fresh plume]

lol, yea acetone will make that stuff brittle as hell

[viscid violet]

I really wanna try out some ultra high weight polymers before I die.

[fresh plume]

I do have to say ASA is still one of the worst

High melting point, and it is a very slim margin between the glass transition and melting

and it grabs things

[viscid violet]

I jokingly suggested that we switch from a $1.68/lb PP to a UHMWPP for dimensional stability and consistency and my engineering team was happy

Never used ASA. Yet

[fresh plume]

LMAO

its

uh

well UHMEPE is fun but evil

[viscid violet]

Happy stated with extreme sarcasm

[fresh plume]

and ASA is evil

[tight river]

What does that alphabet stand for?

[viscid violet]

Chemicals mostly

[tight river]

Ultra hard marine waterproof polyethylene?

[viscid violet]

So a UHMW polymer basically means it has spectacularly long polymer chain lengths

Ultra high molecular weight

[tight river]

Aah

Makes sense

[viscid violet]

Strong materials. Pricy

[tight river]

I bet yeah

Like the polymers used in guns?

[viscid violet]

Plastic is polymer

All of em.

So it varies depending on the manufacturer

Nylon is pretty common

[viscid violet]

Glock for example is on some bullshit calling it "polymer 2" but it's just glass fiber reinforced nylon 6.

Pretty boring material but nobody likes "plastic" guns so they needed to rebrand it.

"Its stronger than most steel alloys" is another very specific marketing claim.

Glock makes great guns but they're dirty liars about their "proprietary polymer"

[tight river]

I'm not a fan of plastic guns anyway but they have their uses

[fresh plume]

Good ol nylon 6

The only plastic I gotta frickin BOIL when im done with it

[viscid violet]

I had that happen once. Smoked out the building.

Messed up my sinuses for a week

Boiling nylon is noooo joke

[humble terrace]

Story time?

[viscid violet]

The boiling nylon?

[humble terrace]

Indeed, sounds like it's worth a story

[viscid violet]

So we had this old 1970s machine. No tech. All relay logic and pneumatic timers.

Big brain setup tech who'd been there for 20 years before I started decided he would turn the press on, crank the barrel temps to 630F and leave the cooling water turned off.

The water keeps the feed throat cool so the plastic doesn't melt in the throat.

So it melted.

No problem on its own but the thing about an injection molding machine is its made of metal so the heat coming up the throat forms a gradient. At some point along this gradient the stuff is partially melted, and above that solid.

So the heat crept up the throat until a solid plug formed in said throat on top of the molten nylon underneath.

Mind you, this stuff melts at like 500F.

So all the while the heaters are cranked to 630 plus. The feed throat is now plugged solid and the nylon is in the barrel 130 plus degrees too hot underneath that.

Queue: squidge

I get sent over there to finish his bullshit

I notice the hopper is over the feed throat and I had no idea how long it was on so I pulled the hopper back to purge it out.

"Ah fuck its bridged"

I go and grab a wooden handle to poke the bridge and break it up

It instantly turns into a full on geyser of boiling nylon

Proceeded to spray paint the top of the press with 630 plus degree plastic with a lower viscosity than water and along with that smoked out the entire press room inside of about 20 seconds

I, with my catlike reflexes, managed to only get one drop of the stuff on me somehow

So we evacuate everyone from the room and I'm left being the asshole who gets to deal with the problem. I had to finish breaking up the bridge and feed it the correct plastic to handle the temperature it was at. Purged the barrel empty, standing in a cloud of smoke, and the other asshole had the nerve to say "haha oops" while he went outside with everyone else.

For the next several years until we scrapped the press it had black nylon splatter permanently adhered to the paint.

[brisk moth]

Ahh, a "learning experience". Where you learned to get rid of the guy who caused the experience

(not advocating getting rid of a person after a single incident)

[humble terrace]

That sounds like that could have ended MUCH worse

[brisk moth]

Oh yeah

[viscid violet]

Yeah. Certain combinations of materials can explode under the heat and pressure of the process

Turns the press barrel into a pipe bomb

[inland silo]

Got all my printers repaired and set up, but I also purchased a laser cutter, now to find a spot for it in my workspace.

[fresh plume]

Yall think I should get a h2s or a p2s

As a new printer, I dont necessarily need a larger printer but it could be nice

[humble terrace]

Well, I'm still thrilled with my P1S, and the 2 is supposedly either identical to moderately better in most ways, so it's probably a solid choice for 256mm^3.

H2Syou definitely get more build volume, there's the laser cutter, chamber heater, etc.
Probably comes down to build volume?

And of course, the fact that the P2's about half the price of the H2.

[fresh plume]

the H2 is about the same price i paid for my Kicksterter X1 combo, and the P2s also has a heated chamber

so its pretty much literally more proce more build volume

do you think theres a reason to go with larger build volume (speaking genreally since my uses for a printer varry widely)

as refference, i need to replace my X1C, because right now it needs new carbon rods, a new heated bed, new belts, and a new aux fan, which collectively will cost me pretty close to half the price of a P2s

oh, and new belt tensioners, and one new LCD screen cable

[viscid violet]

Ultralight tripod. Uses trekking poles. Made bespoke for my carbon fiber iceline poles.

Third leg is a cord and tent stake.

Center diamond is to hang water bladder or a rock or something to add some weight if needed.

[humble terrace]

I personally haven't ever had to print anything that didn't fit on 256, but, perhaps that's at least partially because I've avoided larger things knowing I don't have the build volume for it.

[viscid violet]

More or less. Wet pla sucks but there you have it.

Just needs a stake, some cord, and an adjuster.

[humble terrace]

That is a pretty neat lightweight solution to that problem

[viscid violet]

Need to get off my ass and get a bolt for it.

Its not going to be ultralight but it'll be a lot less than a full tripod

[tight river]

Better get a titanium bolt

Titanium banjo bolt, save more weight

[viscid violet]

Good point. Hook me up.

I'm gonna see if the local hardware store has any aluminum ones but if not I'll just get a stainless and call it a day. The ball head itself is already heavy and a bolt wont add an appreciable amount

[tight river]

I despise aluminium bolts but this is a good use

[tight river]

I'll ask my dad if he can spare one from his knee surgery 😝

[viscid violet]

Then Monday I'll print it out of nylon

[viscid violet]

I found nylon screws

[slender oasis]

but isnt that a bipod not a tripod?

[formal cloak]

It is a bipod

[viscid violet]

Nope.

As stated, once it's tethered to a stake it becomes a tripod by virtue of technicality

[slim sandal]

printing a test for the final knife block and some fealer gauges at the same time \

any potential issues

[viscid violet]

dont see why there would be

[slim sandal]

thanks I send it

[slim sandal]

and I did my mesurements wrong welp new design in the printer

[viscid violet]

204g.

Course I'll need a stake, which my tent conveniently has anyways, and some cord, which I carry anyways.

[brisk moth]

yanno, I think my gantry might not have been level the last time i leveled my bed...

[mossy urchin]

... interesting profile xD

[brisk moth]

it was fine on friday!.... before the head crashed in to a warping print.

tbf the gantry was probably skew, but the bed had been levelled to it

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/515739287996858377/1490511219012931785/image.png?ex=69d4523e&is=69d300be&hm=64bf06e9f5013a45a7c9246e29c1366c0e9afc44dea958d1214e077a4a66ac69&
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/515739287996858377/1490511219264720906/image.png?ex=69d4523f&is=69d300bf&hm=838f380c1aef0a58c3b804bef0f8dec2de8196c3278313eccf78d6796d206271&
this was after I had redone it just now

.33mm deviation is still a bit more than I want, but its good enough... hopefully

but at the same, the bed is a bit taco 🤷

[slim sandal]

I need to get better at setting up brims/ears my sheath warped but the print held that is all fine and dandy
it was concerning when it was just sitting on the print bed

[oak notch]

https://youtube.com/shorts/1rFQGx0_X84?si=gW22Of0TOfeig3gA

Welp, we can all pack up and go home, we're done 😂

[formal cloak]

Who the fuck makes a UU4 printer🤣

[tight river]

No one

He designed and built it himself

He's trying to go <60 sec

[viscid violet]

Which is insane mind you.

Looks like i get to print a gel holder for my lights because I can't seem to find one

Well thats not entirely accurate. I want one without barn doors

[mossy urchin]

what a weird sentence without knowledge of professional lighting equipment xD

for reference:
this is a gel holder with barn doors
https://images.prolighting.de/imagesshop/webpL/1226100416.jpg

[viscid violet]

Aye

But i need one that'll take just loose sheets lol

The specific issue is I have some lower power cheaper lights that lack fine control over output so I'm gonna shove ND gels on them to lower output if needed.

[brisk moth]

That area tends to get hot on lights, though tbf my own experience with stage lights was 20 years ago before LEDs really took off for anything

[viscid violet]

With still photography its still an issue even with led modeling lamps but like. I can print carbon fiber nylon

The flash bulbs themselves can put out loads of heat too but I'm not really running them frequently enough to be an issue. Not like I need to rapid fire a thousand stills a minute

[brisk moth]

Ahh, still photography. Yeah a lot less continuous heat with those

The bigger/brighter stage cans could easily deform gels and make them nearly useless after a night

[viscid violet]

I did first learn about that in high school stagecraft though lol.

Well. When I wasn't showing up hungover

I had a wierd high school experience

[brisk moth]

You are aware that heat can be an issue though, which is good

[viscid violet]

yeah idk if you are in the photography thread but i've been attempting to get into product photography so I've got a bunch of gear im unqualified to use now.

[brisk moth]

I'm not, no

[viscid violet]

https://discord.com/channels/222052888531173386/1398377299845578983

Should you be interested

[brisk moth]

I... Darn 😦

(was hoping to have that part done by the time I went out today.. only had time for one attempt)

[viscid violet]

RIP

about to fire off a test piece for a hardbox. the one that I know of is a $1200 thing. My printer should be large enough to make my own.

this is just to see if the dimensions that I need to slip over the light itself work.

so, cheap PLA.

single wall print wish me luck

[brisk moth]

That faceting 🤮 :p

[humble terrace]

somebody's payin by the polygon

[brisk moth]

Wouldn't surprise me if fusion locked "high resolution model exports" behind their paywall...

[viscid violet]

I'm using sketchup for fast models because thats 10 minutes of work.

This was done in fusion after my first "prototype" which was..

Basically just a hockey puck with 3 holes in it

[viscid violet]

It doesn't. Yet.

Here's the stl out of fusion.

[brisk moth]

I was just ragging on fusion then, I assumed the model came out of something else

[viscid violet]

The faceted one absolutely did lol

[mossy urchin]

What tha Heeell 😂
Been there, done that... That 3D print crunch... And more often than not, the "remaining time" estimate seems to get longer by the minute xD

[mossy urchin]

There's tesselation options but the "highest" profile sometimes still looks a little dull...

[viscid violet]

Profoto: "here's a sheet metal box for $1200"

Me: "I can 3d print that"

[slate river]

This is currently my attempt for the custom protector.
In gray is just a Test, printed in tulle, the blue-ish green is the TPU. The full sized singles printed fine, but scaling it down by 50% caused a Lot of stringing.
I am not sure how to counter the stringing.
The first things I would guess would be the printing speed and the flowspeed. either slower or faster, I'm not sure.

[humble terrace]

In PLA I'd just hit it with a heat gun, stringies disappear, move on.

Not sure it would have the same effect on TPU, but it would be worth trying.

[viscid violet]

Thermoplastic is Thermoplastic. It'll work similarly with tpu

[humble terrace]

And for anyone that hasn't tried heat gun on stringing, it is absolutely magical. Practically unbelievable. It's a cheat code.

[viscid violet]

pray for me

[humble terrace]

Good luck!

And, are you still paying by the polygon?

[viscid violet]

again, sketchup

prototype gets modeled the fast way and printed with my cheap 5kg PLA roll

Took 3 tries to get this right.

Id dial in the PLA but like. Nah.

[slate river]

So there isn't a dial to adjust in the print settings, in order to prevent that?

[tight river]

Gas torch, or just a lighter for small spots

[brisk moth]

Stringing can be caused by a number of things, including but not limited to:

• too hot
• too cold
• not enough or too much retraction
• too slow or too fast retraction
• filament condition (damp will string more)
• phase of the moon
• z hop
  Not-stringing is a sliding window of basically all of those things

[hoary siren]

My answer (If the rest of the print is ok) :

https://tenor.com/view/lighter-flames-morefire-burn-it-gif-14534034

[humble terrace]

Im sure there is. Normally I'd probably start by slightly increasing retraction, but, supposedly that's bad to do with TPU?
So, personally, instead of hours of researching / tweaking, I'd choose to spend 15 seconds with a heat gun. And it really is that fast.

MIGHT even work with a hair dryer, though I've never tried it. If it does work, that'd be awesome, less risk of deforming a print.

[viscid violet]

My big print had a roughly quarter inch layer shift last night. I'm still letting it run

[humble terrace]

Nothing a saw and some glue can't cure

If you were a real bad-ass, maybe could find a way to break it right on the offending layer line

[viscid violet]

I'm not probably not going to use the PLA version permanently anyways due to the heat tolerance of it. Also several supports failed and while it's still printing it made it past the overhangs seemingly without issue

1kg of pla is cheap enough to "waste" on a test print before I do the final version in CF nylon for the improved matte finish and heat resistance

[brisk moth]

Could always pause, and re-home XY then let it continue. I have done that a few times on test prints before

(yes I know that was almost a full 24 hours ago now)

[viscid violet]

Yeah it was 6 hours past it when I saw it. Its minor though. Won't affect the test

[brisk moth]

Just remember to not also home Z if you ever try that 😆

[viscid violet]

Now to find some m5 screws... I swear I've got some

As far as the print goes: task failed successfully.

Some of the supports basically spawned in midair.

[humble terrace]

I started just buying the $10-$20 kits with a ton of lengths of a given size. I think I've got m3, m4, and m5s now.

[viscid violet]

Yeah... I should have checked first. I have a ton of m3.

Now I'm sitting here with m5 holes and no m5 to stuff in them QQ

I'll just shove the m3 through and use nuts for now lol

Nope can't do that no clearance for the screw head. Forgot about that part

To the hardware store I go

[tight river]

not having m5 screws, rookie mistake

So why do you use metric holes?

[viscid violet]

Spite

[tight river]

I mean, i approve, just surprising

[viscid violet]

The best part is it's not even easier to use

[tight river]

Over there, i bet

[viscid violet]

Holy shit I think it works.

Need to pull the photo off my camera

Well it does technically, ever so slightly, work.

Its very marginally a sharper shadow than without anything at all. I suspect the pla is just a little bit glossy

[fresh plume]

Finally got my stickers in

[viscid violet]

That's hot

[slender oasis]

I can never find kits with M5 in them, they always stop at m4

[humble terrace]

I do the kits with one thread size, and a bunch of different lengths

[tight river]

You can print cans now, damn, modern technology huh

[fresh plume]

Yea man, good replica huh?

[tight river]

Yeah, well done. My favourite flavour as well

[fresh plume]

its weird having an H2, like in videos and photos the size doesnt come across well\

but now i have no idea what to make after printing the 3 things i needed h2 build volume for

[formal cloak]

Cosplay helmets

[fresh plume]

This looks like... moderately more professional than the previous lol

[normal mango]

Professional? Yeah, whatever. I've got my 2 resin and 1 filament just in a room, basically no organization

[slender oasis]

we apperently buy the same IPA

[hoary siren]

Windex ?

[fresh plume]

I made a thing

[formal cloak]

Where the fuck did you find that model?

I have been looking around everywhere for Star Citizen models and can't find them anywhere 😅

[brisk moth]

cleaned up game rip maybe?

[formal cloak]

How?

[brisk moth]

it was a guess, but that tends to be how people get designs from games

[formal cloak]

I use to rip things out of Star Citizen, but since 4.0 haven't been able to.

I know people are capable to but since 4.0 are secretive as hell.

[tribal hedge]

That’s because CIG has become stricter about enforcing protections of their IP

[fresh plume]

I can send you some

[formal cloak]

Yes please

I would love that

[fresh plume]

Ill send em in one second, just doing a little laundry

[formal cloak]

Aye, take your time

[fresh plume]

Please Don't Stab me Auutomod

[formal cloak]

Oh, it definitely will🤣

[humble terrace]

Some of us pay extra for that

[fresh plume]

I'm working on more stls

I need a good Polaris rn so that's next

[formal cloak]

I am looking for the weapons just for Cosplay, but they're so hard to find.

[fresh plume]

weapons arent hard to model for cosplay, just... time consuming

[formal cloak]

I mean, having the files is a massive win in terms lf time.

I have been trying to make a weapon from scratch and I am really bad at it.

[fresh plume]

I think it mostly will depend on what program you are using to model them, the weapons have alot of repetative surface details, and I noticed in soldworks doing weapons and weapon variants from sci-fi is alot easier when i can focus on a detailed thing and copy/paste it or have it mirrored on the other side, and that angular weapons like the gallant, FS9, P4 are alot easier than swoopy artistic shapres that need you to have a good hand in blender

but its always a time sink doing anything that big, lots of small things become much more detailed when you get to see them close up and sudenly a 3-4 hour model becomed a 12-16 hour model

I do very much prefer doing models for games like helldivers tho, the geometry is far more simple

[formal cloak]

And I absolutely suck at Blender and don't have enough money for Solidworks😅

[fresh plume]

$50 a year lol

[formal cloak]

How

When I look at prices, it's like 2K a year or something

[fresh plume]

Maker edition

Not professional

https://www.solidworks.com/solution/solidworks-makers?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2026_glo_cnbmks_swks_evergreen_worldpilot_en_search&utm_content=search_{adgroupname}_evergreen&utm_term=solidworks makers&utm_device=m&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23753126048&gbraid=0AAAAADqOeJTb23bF_ppPujiNGET8lEtoG&gclid=CjwKCAjwtcHPBhADEiwAWo3sJmA5zdvvpZ_EiMlMkLJaZqe4p4OR9JSIBqtH05oU-dbcvxEjVAnCyhoCrCgQAvD_BwE

[formal cloak]

That's a steal

[viscid violet]

What's the price if you make $2000 annually? $2100?

[fresh plume]

The price of being Inteligent enough to tell Dassault how much money you make using cad is high

[viscid violet]

Point is more about how absurdly low that cutoff is set and how anyone making 2001 dollars annually probably still can't afford the price of the product.

[formal cloak]

I can make 2K a month and still lose 30% in loan taxes.

[fresh plume]

No agreed, but its 100 a year after that, the cut off for professional is owning a business

[viscid violet]

Oh $100 is fine then.

[slender oasis]

not sure I agree with that at least when it comes to game models. I find trying to convert a game model to something printable to be more of a pain in the ass then just remodeling it from scratch my self.

[slender oasis]

they some times put it onsale for half off as well, did that last year for black friday

[formal cloak]

I sadly can't recreate something, I am very very bad at it.

Lets say building something from scratch I am way way better at than recreating it.

[slender oasis]

yeah I am sure it very much depends on where your skills are strongest and what you like doing more. for me cleaning up game geo is very annoying and slow but modeling something from scratch using refs is faster and more fun. probably some big differences if your trying to do it in CAD or vertex modeling software. recreating a game object as a real world object in CAD would seem harder to me but that might just be my bias as a vertex modeler

[frail hornet]

If you want, I can try out meshy ai, just get a few clear views of the weapon about 90deg apart from one another. The model quality might be passable, or at least serve as a decent reference for remodeling

[frail hornet]

Based on the look of it and the zip, I'm pretty sure that's the same source people have been getting them for a bit, which is rips of the low(er) detail holoviewer models from the RSI website.

[formal cloak]

How the fuck do people do that?

[formal cloak]

How well does it work these days, when I tried 2 years ago it was ass.

I am trying to design a sci-fi weapon for a while now with moving parts but its hard 😅

[frail hornet]

It's not particularly obfuscated when loading the web view

[frail hornet]

It's incredibly better than it was even a year ago, but I certainly wouldn't count on it to make moving parts/CAD style designs. But I threw in character portraits of my PCs in a game I'm running and got reasonable looking textured, rigged models out of it in a few minutes. I dropped the wookiepedia image of an obscure starship in and got a usable model out in one shot.

[slim sandal]

what would be a good filament for use in a window sill with an portable AC vent? I have nylon but want to wait till I build a dry storage box for my printer to open it up (also for some car projects)

I will paint it as no plastic is good with UV

looks like elegoo figured out an AMS for the OG carbon

[slender oasis]

I have been using bog standard PLA for that for my window exhaust vent. its been in my window every summer for 3 years and its not had any problems. it is painted for UV protection.

my exhaust is for room temp air, its for my spray booth and laser not an AC unit. I have no idea how hot the exhaust is on an AC unit so you might need something with better heat resistance

[slim sandal]

That is what I was thinking the exhaust is warm but not hot by that point combined with the warmer summers it can hit over 100 for weeks at a time

[slender oasis]

if your in a 100f+ area I would move to PETG or ABS/ASA

[swift scroll]

Rip heatblock

And their out of stock aswell in the eu

Had to make a rc clubmember do my emergency deone printa for the weekend.

Also thats not pla … thats PolyMax PC

110c softening point 270 print temp

[fresh plume]

Thats an easy enough fix, just grab it with some needle nose pliers and keep running the nozzle temp up until it slides off

Also this stuff and a textured plate works wonders for PC,

Kept this stuff rock solid, as well as ASA, ABS, PP, and PA. Also important to clean the bed with IPA once in a while, helps adhesion a TON

Lastly though, amazon pretty frequently had knock off or genuine hotends for the H2, they'll do in a pinch 🙂

[fresh plume]

Last little chunk of my unwarranted advice, PC is fine but PA works very nicely for drones as well as long as it doesnt need to be stupidly rigid the PA will be more impact resistant

[fresh plume]

If its going into any window and exposed to the outside, and you want it to stand up long term, ASA and hit it with clearcoat to prevent moisture ingress, that'll stand up for most of eternity

PETG can as well but direct sun exposure can warp PETG pretty badly

[fresh plume]

Thats what it is, I know a few of them in there are more high quality and I have some super nice ones from other sources but discord wont let me send them because ThErE tO BiG

[viscid violet]

So... thats an interesting take and id be curious to learn more here. Polycarbonate is the premier impact resistant polymer and its used for riot glass because of that. Polycarbonate is used for fighter jet canopies as well.

Nylon has high impact resistance, especially when processed properly and conditioned post-mold/print but it's a drop in the bucket compared to PC.

[slim sandal]

Good to know thank you

[fresh plume]

Okay, going to type this as to simplify from my original messages and not repeat myself: PP, PA, and PPS are all going to have better impact resistances then PC before post processing due to the plastic and elastic deformation of the materials, and because PC relies heavily on a bonded crystalline structure to maintain the resistance. with the FDM process the PC doesn't form interconnected lattices resulting in a much lower resistance fresh off the printer.

Here is PC

Here is PA6

plus this is CF filled which leads to much lower warping

Basically the harder you go (pps attached as an example) you will loose impact strength, and given that PPS is MUCH harder than PC its also lower impact strength

TLDR, Nylon is superior for parts that do not need to hold critical dimensions under constant load (because it does creep under sustained load) PC is good for those applications but only to the extent that it is cheap and easily availble. and for the best of both worlds plastics like PET, which is very expensive but has superior tensile strength and impact resistance to PC, while not loosing dimensional accuracy from constant loading (attached PET for example)

[high crag]

@steady cove

[slender oasis]

well PC might be cheap in injection molding... PC filament really isnt, fairly sure PET is cheaper in general and PETG even more so

but its cheaper then PA

assuming that weight is a big factor in any aircraft part then the lower density filaments might be a better option. PP being the king of low density (unless you count foaming) and impact resistance. seems like a great choice, PPGF if you need a more rigid part. problem is its a very warp prone filament and dosnt stick to anything but its self. also hard to paint if you want to paint it.

I think ABS is the next lightest of the more common printable plastics?

[fresh plume]

PC is around 40 a roll and PET is closer to 50, with PPS closing on 150. and weight irrospective since material density is less important than structural integrity, an ABS part of the same strength as a PET-CF part would be heavier. I do however agree that ABS, or more specifically ASA-GF is most likely the best choice for light airframe components, for a combination of mass, strength, and UV and temperature tolerange. but for somthing like an FPV drone that is more prone to impacts then PA "nylon" remains the best option since ASA and ABS from FDM tend to be far more brittle

or ASA Aero from Bambu labs may be the best overall option since the aero filaments have higher impact resistance and lower weight

(ASA Aero)

PP generally though is not great for printing anything that needs too much rigidity, it is a more flexible material and i would tend to want to use it as bumpers and guards

[slender oasis]

is filament crazy exspensive where you are or something?

[fresh plume]

shipping is expensive

[slender oasis]

yeap, PP is super flexible, but the GF version I think counteracts that problem fairly well and the GF is kinda needed to keep it from warping off the print bed anyway

but then it might loose some of its impact resistance so not sure

[fresh plume]

its... pretty good? but again sort of like the creep problem with nylons

I do like the GF ones for some aplications but not for anything that has to use bolts or fasteners

[slender oasis]

its a creeper? figured a flexible like that would creep less

[fresh plume]

more flex means more creep lol

[slender oasis]

tell that to PLA

[fresh plume]

pla isnt flexible

its just very uh

[slender oasis]

its not and it creeps like mad

[fresh plume]

well terrible

[slender oasis]

I actually really like PLA, its only 2 downsides for me is the creep and temp problems and there are lots of applications where those dont matter

[fresh plume]

Are you sure your talking about PLA not Tough PLA? regular PLA has like... never creeped on me... its brittle as shit but it doesnt creep, it kust kind of crumbles

[slender oasis]

all PLA is creepy

[fresh plume]

PLA i really dont use for anything but decorations lol so thats somthing ive not really tested

[slender oasis]

if its under constantly load it will deform

ah if your using like silk then yeah that shit crumbles, its gross

[fresh plume]

its one of those weird materials everyone uses but i have so little use for niknaks that melt in the sun

[slender oasis]

and matte PLA has the worst layer adhesion

[fresh plume]

that is true, i got a roll of it for some wall decor, that switched to PETG quick

I have been tempted to start using mostly TPU or TPE for decor just because its virtually indestructable

or PP but price wise ill mostly take TPU

[slender oasis]

I dont have an enclosed printer so my only options are PLA, PETG and TPU.

[fresh plume]

ah, yea i feel that

what you got?

[slender oasis]

I have a Elegoo Neptune 3 pro. so and older slow printer

but its been good too me

[fresh plume]

my rectangle has treated me well

I have to say the enclosure has been a huge upgrade over my prusa, especially the heated chamber and 1000% reliability

[slender oasis]

I also dont mind designing around a materials limitations, kinda makes it more fun. for example

[fresh plume]

honestly thats part of the fun

[slender oasis]

2 of these hold up my kayak on the wall and they have been working well for 2 years now

that is bog standard elegoo black PLA

[fresh plume]

some things sadly you gotta just use the right material lol. like a drone cant really be made out of any of the open enclosure printers without failing prematurely

[slender oasis]

the wooden dowel counters the creep problem by transfering the froce directly into the wall

[fresh plume]

your mostly dealing with tensile there and PLA has remarkable tensile strength

i mean most Glock frames people print are PLA

[slender oasis]

you can print PPGF on an open printer but that stuff aint cheap

also I think you could get away with PETG drone parts

[fresh plume]

I find that... Terrifying so ive not tried it but it is an impressive showing

UHHH

maybe

but i think youd have a hard time keeping it from warping around the motors and batteries

you could do with a nice metal sleeve to disipate heat but then youd adding mass

[slender oasis]

oh yeah, you would have to do a littl extra heat shielding of some kind for those areas.

I would use silicone. a thin silicone heat shield would be more then enough and add very little mass

[fresh plume]

Might end up insulating a motor with that

[slender oasis]

like basically some silicone sheet glued around the interface

[fresh plume]

cook the poor thing

would work though

the right motors that breathe from the bottom or top

battery pack is another story, thatd need a fan, cant really isolate that

[slender oasis]

I want to get into RC and fixed wing stuff. been looking into it for a while. not sure about quads as much

[fresh plume]

Ive printed a few quads, its rather fun. the software is smart as shit, they just... work

I made a real big one

fun, but damn that was alot of printing just for it to fall into a lake a year later

[slender oasis]

I am a looks type person, I care more that it looks cool rather then how well it functions and I have never thought quads look very cool but I love fixed wing aircraft. also cheaper because only one motor

[fresh plume]

I have this one company i buy kits and fixed wing models from

they look like military drones like the raven and puma

[slender oasis]

well maybe 2. I want to make an RC PBY. seems perfect for where I live as lakes everywhere

[fresh plume]

thatd be fun

a PBY is a great little model to make RC

[slender oasis]

one of my fav planes

[fresh plume]

big long wings, fat body, lots of places for batteries and tons of lift

[slender oasis]

would be fun to design

[fresh plume]

i think you could do that easy with PLA Aero

[slender oasis]

also want to make an RC off road heavy haul truck of some kind. maybe a P12 or similar logging truck

thinking 1/10 scale so a big boy

[fresh plume]

THAT

would be alot of filament

[slender oasis]

good thing PLA and PETG are cheap

[fresh plume]

true

would need to mostly be PETG for outdoors

[slender oasis]

I dont think it would actually be that big. I did the math on it once and its a little under 1m long

why?

[fresh plume]

I mean still, it took me a week to print a 1-1 model of a hellfire missile

[slender oasis]

PLA does fine out doors. as long as you dont leave it in a hot car

[fresh plume]

and that had 0 moving part slol

[slender oasis]

lol, I printed a 1/700 enterprise D

[fresh plume]

https://flightory.com/

[slender oasis]

still not finished assembling that

[fresh plume]

which enterprise

D?

[slender oasis]

yeah

[fresh plume]

I am actually watching TNG right now

[slender oasis]

its huge... like WTF was I thinking huge

normal model kits for this are 1/1400 so half the size

[fresh plume]

Presently in the middle of the 1/20 scale MCRN Tachi

that was

not smart

but the investment has been made

[fresh plume]

looks normal lmao

actually quality print

usually the neptunes dont tune up that nicely, very well done

[slender oasis]

the hold up is I want to resin the windows and that is going to be ALLOT of work

[fresh plume]

Perseus print

[slender oasis]

I really wish the model had the windows filled in instead of open. that way I would have just printed the whole thing out of clear PLA and did light masking

[fresh plume]

That'd be too east

Easy

Every project needs a hangup

[slender oasis]

I already did a bunch of alterations to the model to make it more accurate. doing the windows would have been fairly time consuming

[slender oasis]

why I hate printing other peoples designs/models and would rather do my own. moddifying them is a headache because they are not the source model

[fresh plume]

Lmao, yea thats a problem

Usually I go to CULTS or the like for really nice models like the enterprise

Usually alot of thought done there

[slender oasis]

this is the one from Gamebody. only STL I ever payed for but I never found good quality free one and modeling it my self would have taken me months

but I got it half off because of a sale so it wasnt bad

it will go well with my warpcore

I just wish I had more room for all the nonsense I want to make

[fresh plume]

I seem to find myself in a similar situation much if the time as well

A printer is an amazing tool, but it seems so often to make us need to buy more shelves

[slender oasis]

if I had room for it I would be doing insane things like printing a life sized xenomorph to scare the crap out of anyone that enters my appartment

including me

[swift scroll]

And much much lower layer adhesion 😅

I had a ppa-cf drone, the layers delaminated midflight 👀

Nice and cheap hitting the ground at 200 km/h 😅

Reprinted in paht-cf and that one worked great.

this one is getting printed in polymax PC as that was the only semidecent filament i could get, print and build before the weekends events.

Actual impact/ crash resistance isnt even a considderation for what i do with the drones

As i fly car racing events crashing is just not a option 😅

[fresh plume]

PPA isnt great for Layer adhesion lol, PET-CF and PA-6 are much better options

[swift scroll]

Not great was a understatemt

Made a nice sound impacting the test field at 200 though !

[fresh plume]

Its not bad when printed in a heated chamber and anealed

About on par with PETG

[swift scroll]

It was prentes on a H2, but not annealed

As the print isnt designed for annealing

Its made for pla+/PC

[fresh plume]

Ah, printed flat? Delaminated on spars i assume then?

But ya PPA is... weird

It was this wonder material

But failed to live up to expectations in most cases, did you per chance use PPA-CF Core from Sariya tech?

[swift scroll]

https://aerobot2.com/

Bambus ppa-cf

[fresh plume]

The CORE one has like... 150x the layer adhesion, bambu's CF filaments like PPA-CF were WAY too carboney on the outer parts of the filament

But moisture makes it brittle still so its not good for frequent outdoor use in high humidity without protection

I think PPA-CF core was like... 75% the layer Bonding strength of its tensile

Very good stuff

[swift scroll]

Not bad

May have to test that.

[fresh plume]

Comes with a profile for the H2 and X series as well

But on my H2 honestly ASA Aero was my go to for drone frames

[swift scroll]

Thats not going to hold up at 200 km/h 😅

Itll turn to confetti as soon as i turn

[fresh plume]

Thats... factually inaccurate lmao

[swift scroll]

I need stiffness, as im livestreaming from the drone.

[fresh plume]

But i see your meaning

[swift scroll]

With larger battery packs

So mine end up quite heavy

Flying 5”ers with 2400-4000 mah 6s 😅

[fresh plume]

You need stiffness but you gotta have some flex in there

Anything short of metal just wont hold up to high torque without being allowed to bend a bit

[swift scroll]

The ppa-cf was the best flying frame iv ever had, it even impressed mr pidtoolbox when he went through the logs

Untill it was no more 😅

[fresh plume]

Do you want me to print ya a frame with PPA-CF core, and PPS-CF?

Ive got plenty of the materials on hand

[swift scroll]

Nah i have a h2s myself 🙂 ill get me a roll once iv repaird it.

And a clubmember has a h2d

He is currently printing my stuff for the weekend while i hunt down a new heating block

[fresh plume]

https://a.co/d/04S7ZNBU

Block or nozzle?

[swift scroll]

Block

[fresh plume]

I... how...

My guy that heater is DEEP

[swift scroll]

The heating cables got fucked bwhen cleaning up the pc blob

Those are Not deep

Their just on the backside, and the printer dis not detect the print failiure in lan mode 😅

[fresh plume]

Ah

Lan mode will do that lol

Get some MagiGoo PA/PC

[swift scroll]

Mhm may have to reconsidder that

[fresh plume]

And trying textured plate

[swift scroll]

Bamb stick has been just fine

I was just lazy and dis not have time to clean it between a paht-cf print

[fresh plume]

Oh ya there good, the GOO is just... EXTRA insurance when I cant watch my printer

Ah

Ya

[swift scroll]

Just added a new layer onto, should have washed it with ipa

[fresh plume]

I'm pretty studious about that after I turned half a prusa into a solid block of nylon

Easy mistakes we make

[viscid violet]

Polycarbonate is not crystalline. At all. That's why its clear.

Are you referring to something other than Polycarbonate as pc?

[fresh plume]

I aparently need sleep but yea my bad, polycarbonate is amorphous, the remaining things are just numeric facts lol, I will get some sleep and sort out whatever material I was thinking about in the morning

Morning

[slender oasis]

if you need extra str and stiffness why not just reenforce the print with some real CF?

[fresh plume]

Still tho, FDM polycarbonate isnt nearly as good for drone frames as alot of other materials

An option, but requires alot of nasty work

Real CF is also a pain in the ass "at least for me, i know there are some real artists out there with fabrics and resins"

[slender oasis]

the resin or the fiber?

[fresh plume]

Both

Lmao

They go hand in hand to make my worst nightmare

[slender oasis]

depending on the part/shape carbon fiber rods might be an option

[fresh plume]

The drone model he sent over didnt use any so itd be fabric on that one

Ive seen some with rods, but not used those models myself, I like the fully printable frames, there good fun

Anywho, just check out CNC kitchens website for what materials to use, bending modulous, tensile strength, layer adhesion, and impact resistance are all on some nice easy to read charts

[slender oasis]

personally rather work with glass then carbon but carbon is best for stiffness. both fibers are nasty, glass is just really itchy but carbon has some potential health risks. resin dosnt bother me.

I have been meaning to play with alternate composit matterials. someone I know does wood turning to make pens and such and I was thinking of making some test blocks of interesting fibers for turning. one that I think would be really cool is to take hemp or jute roap and use that as the fiber in a composit. I bet it would look crazy when turned into a pen

basically micarta

[fresh plume]

Personally for the usecase PPA-CF Core from Sariya tech, PPS-CF core from the same company, or ASA-Aero and use some carbon or glass fiber and resin to support high loading areas may be a really good option... on another note tho... printing a mold and coating it in pattern release then using an epoxy resin mixed with shredded carbon fibers would be a VERY good way to make stupidly tough frames

[slender oasis]

yeah, "forged" carbon. its actually really easy to do with 3d printed molds

[fresh plume]

I always forget about that as an option tbh

[slender oasis]

its not as good as fiber cloth but its way easier and looks great

[fresh plume]

I am so used to printing things with advanced materials that the simple methods yield often better results

That or just order a frame printed from titanium

[slender oasis]

I do lots of mold making stuff and love mixing materials

[fresh plume]

I make some sand casts for copper but thats the extent of it, carbon fibers freak me out with having a hatred of wearing masks and having asthma

[slender oasis]

yeah you cant skimp on the PPE with resin or fibers

[fresh plume]

Idk, im on 46 hours without sleep trying to be logical with materials science right now and it feels like college 2.0 lol, ill catch some Z's and figure out what the hell the right answer is later

[slender oasis]

silicone on the other hand is mostly fine. should wear gloves but dont have to worry about fumes so that is nice. I love working with silicone

and the gloves are mostly to protect the silicone not you

[fresh plume]

I use that stuff for mold making constantly. Can't beat vulcanized materials

RTV is the greatest invention since asphalt

[slender oasis]

one of my current projects is I want to try my hand at making resin eyes with RGB ring lights inbeded in them controlled with WLED. so will need to make some silicone molds for those and while I am at it I want to make some dice molds.

sadly silicone is exspensive AF

stupid platinum catalist

I use 3d printed molds where I can because cheaper but nothing captures detail like silicone and many shapes require a stretchy mold if you want to get them out and dont want seam lines

[brisk moth]

do you use fdm or sla for molds? or for negatives/positives for molds

[slender oasis]

FDM, if its something really detailed I print a master, spend a stupid amount of time smoothing and finishing it then make a mold from it. if its something that I can get away with a 2 part ridged mold I will do a 3d printed 2+ part mold instead. but its harder to smooth a printed mold without loosing details

should say its harder to smooth a negative shape then a positive shape without loosing detail

epoxy like to pool and cant sand cavities worth a shit

lol, would you believe me if I told you these were cast from FDM 2 part molds?

2 molds actually, cast each half then glued them together then smoothed away the layer lines. can see the line where they were glued. they are good enough after allot of finishing work that I can use them to make a silicone mold now

stuff like that is where I wish I had a resin printer

[brisk moth]

glue line
Between the 10,16 and 8,6?

[slender oasis]

yep, cant feel it, its only visible because of the translucency

so it will vanish when molded in silicone

an overly complicated way to get a set of master dice for making a mold but I wanted to design the dice my self not use someone elses and those are the tools i had

ignore the really ugly inking on the green one. sanding the smaller one was harder so I needed to use sharpie for sanding and couldnt get it off.

(I often use sharpie for a quick guide coat on small things when sanding, lets me see when its actually flat)

also playing with casting a small fresnel lens

I want to make a model of one of the really complex ones used in lighthouses out of cast epoxy. going to use it in a desk lamp

this was a test to see if the epoxy would actually give me the light pattern I wanted as it has different refraction properties. what makes me sad is I cant think of a way to get the green edges you see on cut glass

[high crag]

@fresh plume fuck you, this shit is entirely too cool, I never should have looked in here! 😭

[high crag]

Just print yourself a second house, boom, job done.

[fresh plume]

@high crag

[high crag]

https://tenor.com/view/i-hate-you-anakin-star-wars-gif-10358450

[fresh plume]

Anyways. Life sized xenomorph sounds cool, ill get on making one quick

[high crag]

Nice warm up to the life sized Bile Titan for Halloween?

[fresh plume]

Well with all 4 printers going i could have one of those done within a month

[humble terrace]

Bike handlebar grip?

[fresh plume]

Case for a Lighter

[humble terrace]

Well, definitely wouldn't have guessed that

[slender oasis]

right now I only have a little xenomorph, its climbing on the book shelf now

this one was really fun to paint

[fresh plume]

My xenomorph stalks me

[brisk moth]

ahhh gyroid infill, the noise maker 😆

[slender oasis]

yeah I use cubic because I dont like my printer trying to walk off the desk

but cubic has its own strange noise. the cavities it makes whistle as the cooling fans blow over them when printing but at least the printer dosnt try and walk away

[fresh plume]

My general rule of thumb is triangle/honeycomb for strength, lighting/rectalinear for speed, and gyroid for when I dont care about either and forget to change from the default 🙂

[brisk moth]

my rule of thumb is... as little as is possible to support the top surface well. for big flat parts this may mean higher density, but other than that... infill doesnt do much for strength. its mostly a top surface support, wall loops and top/bottom skin provide most of the strength

[fresh plume]

The difference between this 35% infill and anything less would be less than 1% of the print time lmao, color changes and precision perimeters and a 0.12 layer height ate most of a day for this one anyways

[brisk moth]

color changes
oh yeah, on an mmu filament changes are slow. toolchangers are faster, but still nowhere near the speed of single-filament printing

[fresh plume]

Tool changers are... fine...

I very much current options for them, it feels very janky and costs 8-10x a single nozzle printer

The prusa XL personally makes me cringe when I spot that price tag compared to any of the bambu offerings, even the H2C with 3 AMS units on top of that and buying enough spare parts to last 2 decades is less money lol

[brisk moth]

toolchangers have less waste, change faster, and let you do more exotic filament combinations than an mmu. at the cost of... much greater in-printer complexity

its definitely all tradeoffs

[humble terrace]

cheap toolchanger or dual nozzle extruder sure would be nice for support filament

[brisk moth]

the.. h2s? has a dual nozzle toolhead. one direct drive, one bowden

[fresh plume]

Generally also the cost of high temp filament compatibility, speed in single color prints, build volume, and being open air

The X2C is that one

The H2S is single nozzle big printer with the heated chamber

The H2D is the dual direct drive big one

And H2C is the 7 nozzle INDEX style nozzle changer

Their acronyms drive me insane

Naming scheme rivaled only by prusa

The I3-MK3s+

That hurts my brain

[brisk moth]

X2D was the one I was thinking of

[fresh plume]

That is a very cool concept

For the price especially at 800 bucks

[brisk moth]

they stole my idea! (its an idea I have been noodling about in my head for my ender3 for a while now 😆)

[fresh plume]

But then again for 1700 you can get an H2D and you double your build volume and get dual direct drive and can print up to 375c

Lmao

I think bambu steals every idea

[brisk moth]

tbf I hadnt told anyone the idea

and I also suck at design 😢

[fresh plume]

Thats why there good printers, its a corporatized, economy of scale printer that took the good ideas from every other printer company and improved on the ideas enough to make them reliable

I mean, it happens

[brisk moth]

ie cad design that is
also modelling, but not the issue here

[fresh plume]

For me the problem would be making new firmware

[brisk moth]

eh. the firmware is trivial

like... half an hour of work

[humble terrace]

I have the impression that something like 75% of their success is having default filament profiles that just work out of the box

[fresh plume]

Id say thats more like 25%

[brisk moth]

out of box usability is such a big thing. it was one of the reasons prusa was as successful as they were

[fresh plume]

The bambu handy app is another 25, speed another 25, and reliability is another 25

Because I always here "I got a bambu because I wanted a printer that just worked" and "i can watch it from my phone" and "it was just so much faster than my ender or my prusa"

[brisk moth]

the new prusa stuff is fine for all that, issue was... they kinda stagnated for ages. the mini was.. okay but nothing special, and there was a biiiig gap to the xl/mk4

[fresh plume]

Prusa would be fine if they were even competitive rn

A core 1 vs the p2s is no contrast

[humble terrace]

Huh. Okay. I guess speed was a big factor in my initial purchase. But "it works, nearly every time" is why I suggest them to others.

[brisk moth]

they also had the side foray in to sla, but honestly their big sales items were probably just... filament

[fresh plume]

1200USD vs 550USD for less volume, less speed, less features... they need to innovate again, not try to pkay catchup or do a race to the bottom, id pay double for double the quality, but im getting less for more lol

[fresh plume]

Also I can recommend them to new people for the handy app... you dont need to slice models, just print stuff from your phone

Heck I sold my buddy on bambu because he asked if I could make him a cup holder for some esoteric truck he bought and makerworld had 12 different models ready to go already for that exact thing

[humble terrace]

I've fired off a few from the phone. For simple enough things it's acceptable. I'm usually either at the desktop, or wanting to do some customization that's not easy via the phone, so it's not that big a deal personally.

I see it a bit as a gimmick, but there have been a few times I've been out and about, and thought "wow, I need to print X", and it's been done by the time I'm home.

Interestingly, that app's something they could NOT do at all the way they have if they didn't have everything else down so well (working default profiles)

[humble terrace]

Avaialble model choice is probably a factor as well

[fresh plume]

I mean yea, as you print more and want certain settings or to set certain things up on a print, or if your using it for things you need to design then yes, but for us as more advanced users we tend to think thats what most people would want too... but heck, my dad? He probably prints half the things he uses from his phone

Its more a case of that the bambu ecosystem is more accessable to new users because it has options

You cant model things? Cool, we have a built in version of thingy verse... you suck at knowing what settings to use on the slicer and cant be asked to watch a YouTube video? Use the pre made printable models from hundreds of thousands of users... its all just... brain dead simple to use, and it makes people less scared to try it... but it gives us more advanced users so many options to play with, we can still edit the G-code, and set all manner of settings up as we please... but you dont need to do that lol, you can give a 4 year old your phone and they can print a flexi dragon themselves in 3 taps of a screen... that... is a heck of a selling point for alot of users

[slender oasis]

its more like 75% or even more. Bambu does not make better printers they were just the first company with resonable prices that had good out of the box profiles for there printers. the total trash everyone else was shipping was BS

until bambu came along if you wanted good profile out of the box on a new printer you had to buy a prusa and there prices are kind of insane

the nice thing is bambu pushed most of the other companies to up there game on this. so now most printers at least come with useable profiles if not amazing ones. unlike when I got my Neptune 3 pro. good printer but the profiles it came with were totally useless and until communities profiles showed up in prusaslicer for it, it was a constant headache

you do not have to buy a bambu printer to get a good printer now. there are plenty of good options often at better prices and if you dont like bambu's walled garden apple inspired biz model you dont have to deal with them to get a good printer that "just works" at least as well as the bambu and prusa options

[viscid violet]

I'll tell you what though. I'll never buy a creality printer again.

Possibly never any product from them again.

[slender oasis]

yeah fuck creality

they still have not fixed there BS and they really are the ones that gave 3d printing its bad name

I really wish some other companies would step into the lower cost 3d scanner space. right now sadly they are the only name in the game that I know of and I REALLY want one

[slim sandal]

looking on amazon there seems to be a few brands Revopoint, creality, 3DMakerpro but it is like 80% creality

[viscid violet]

I tried to get a replacement hot end 4 times for my high temp cr5 pro and they kept sending me the low temp version.

I do wish I had better profiles for materials though too because man I do not have time nor patience to dial them in.

[slim sandal]

any filament brands you would recomend I got some cudos bucks from work (amazon gift card)

[fresh plume]

For cheap or like

[slim sandal]

I am looking at getting some ASA for a progect

more good enough I am a novince after all

[fresh plume]

I really like Polymakers ASA-CF

But the filament itself is pretty brittle so if your using a bambu make sure you feed it in from the external spool

[slim sandal]

Is asa one of the ones where composit filament is easier to print?

[fresh plume]

Generally tho polymaker is good, and yea the carbon fiber makes ASA much easier to print

[brisk moth]

CF tends to make a lot of things easier to print. especially warp-happy stuff

[slim sandal]

good to know I got nylon but then learned that I should have gotten CF nylon (for later car project)

[brisk moth]

the issue with CF is that it adds a lot of stiffness. which may be undesirable for nylon

[fresh plume]

It also makes layer adhesion worse

[brisk moth]

(since nylon is a reasonably flexible plastic. you may want the stiffness though)

[slim sandal]

current project is a window mount for my portable AC that seals better than the stock one

[brisk moth]

I just finished my last project. well will have finished it when I find the damn hot glue gun....

done all the printing for it

[slim sandal]

but I have horizantal slide windows so it will need to be part 3d print and part wood/foam

[fresh plume]

https://a.co/d/0bXhuvoM

Depends on where you live but if you get this stuff in white it'll stand up pretty well, a little clearcoat or outdoor paint and it should be very good for the application

[brisk moth]

One removal mounting plate to jam a computer in an old cd player.
Has some front panel stuff that needs gluing in

But is essentially otherwise done

[slim sandal]

in the part of the US that gets 2 weeks of -10 and 2 weeks of 110

west faceing window to boot

[fresh plume]

Oh. Yea then that HT pla in white will be fine

[slim sandal]

no sag issues

[fresh plume]

Put some primer on it and then white enamel paint and it'll protect it from UV and it'll last ages

[brisk moth]

basically anything other than basic pla should be fine for that I think 🤔

I was under the impression HTPLA needed annealing to get its temperature resistance though

[fresh plume]

Yea If you were in like tennesee or texas youd need asa

Nah

[slender oasis]

dont forget CF also makes the prints much less safe to handle.

[fresh plume]

It gets better with anealing but at 110F (43c) HTpla will be fine

[slim sandal]

ehh where I live gets as hot just not for as long or as humid similar to tucson enviroment whise just with reel winter

[fresh plume]

Nothing plastic will ever be fail proof

Printed or not

[slender oasis]

HTpla is a joke. it wont sag with no load on it when it hits 50-60c but its still so soft at those temps as to be useless. all the tests I saw of it showed it to be not in anyway worth the money, you want those extra 10c before it deforms just print PETG instead

[brisk moth]

the big thing about htpla is that you can anneal it for more strength and waaaay more temperature resistance. you apparently technically can with normal PLA... but its a lot more risky.

[fresh plume]

Uh... sure... you can print petg instead... but by your logic PETG is a joke, it'll start to sag at 70c so you might as well print ASA, and that stuff is a joke so you might as well print everything out of PEKK

[brisk moth]

I need to get some more petg...

[fresh plume]

I had alot of luck with the knockoff bambu style PETG lately from amazon, I dont recall the brand

[slender oasis]

no, your not understanding me, the problem isnt that its only 10 degrees of extra wiggle room for max temp, its 0 degrees IF you are actually have any force on the part. it dosnt sag as easily but it still looses its functionality at about the same point

[fresh plume]

Overture

[slender oasis]

and annealing is not amazing because the parts shrink and or otherwise warp when you do it. its not predictible to account for that shrinking in your design either. so it ends up being a waste of time and effort

its just easier to use a filament that works right off the bed in the temp range you need

[fresh plume]

In my experience with it... you arent wrong but your also not right, its closer to an extra 25c of resistance which brings it in line with PETG but easier for a beginner to print. And 25c extra puts it in line with lower quality petg in terms of thermal resistance to sag under load

[slender oasis]

esspecially if that temp range is where PETG is because its just as easy to print as PLA, dosnt have the warping PITA that abs and nylon have

come on, PETG is no harder to print then PLA, at last not on modern printers

[brisk moth]

for annealing HTPLA you typically want to print solid, and then pack it tightly in a fine salt for the anneal. if its not solid it will collapse in on itself, and the salt constrains it so it doesnt move

[slender oasis]

and its the same price

[fresh plume]

Modern printers no

Enclosed printers yes lol

[slender oasis]

you dont need an enclosure for PETG

[brisk moth]

I think a lot of the stigma around printing petg came from the days before modern print surfaces and bed heaters.

[slender oasis]

and glass beds

[fresh plume]

It is heavily environmentally impacted

[slim sandal]

I have an elgoo carbon so...

[fresh plume]

Then use petg

On my prusa mk4 petg still warps if my ac turns on at the wrong time

[brisk moth]

an enclosure helps for basically everything other than pla. pla tends to dislike them, can easily get above plas comfortable ambient temperature

[fresh plume]

(My vents are not in good places and I can't shut them off)

[slim sandal]

the other side progect is a fiament dryer/storage (thankfully it is turbo dry where I live)

[slender oasis]

PETG is a little more sensitive to moisture for sure, not the nightmare that TPU and Nylon are but it dosnt hurt to dry it if your in a soggy climate

[brisk moth]

PETG is waaaay more sensitive to moisture.

[slim sandal]

normaly sub 20% humidity here

[slender oasis]

oddly I have had less warping with PETG then PLA

[brisk moth]

and it gets ruined by printing wet in a way that basically nothing below nylon is

[slender oasis]

lol if your sub 20% your fine

[fresh plume]

Not moisture in my case, just the AC violently warping... well most things by blasting air over every square mm of the house

[slender oasis]

did you have the AC blowing right on your printer or something?

[fresh plume]

Every room has 4 vents in the ceiling

[slim sandal]

they make magnetic vent covers/diverters

[slender oasis]

ceiling vents... yeah I can see taht being trouble

[fresh plume]

They do make covers

For normal non recessed vents lol

I want to stab my contractor but thats between he and I

But its fine, I just got all enclosed printers and the prusa is getting donated

[slim sandal]

did you see elgoo figured out an AMS for the base carbon

[fresh plume]

Okay, so ive totally screwed myself and been shoehorned into doing a 2 week print

[slim sandal]

how big is it?

[slender oasis]

there are 2 things I dont like about PETG. first is I dont like how it looks, its always glossy, that is fine for the transparent ones but if you dont want transparent it kinda bugs me. the other thing I dont like is how it fails when it fails

[fresh plume]

I made an amun-ra class from the expanse, and I wanted to compare that to the donnager in scale

And the donnager to a Paris class from halo

The amun ra I printed is like 11" long

[slender oasis]

PETG stores allot of spring energy in it and when it finally breaks it does so violently where as PLA just kinda comes appart gently because its already plastically deformed and lost the energy

[brisk moth]

print it faster!
the finish on petg is highly depended on how quickly it is printed
but yeah I get you

[fresh plume]

The ra is 60m long in cannon... the donny is 350m... the Paris is 525m

[slim sandal]

so it is brittle like tempered glass

[slender oasis]

but if I print it fast I loose the super power of PETG, its good layer adhesion!

[fresh plume]

CF petg

[slender oasis]

eww

[fresh plume]

I love the surface

[slender oasis]

I wont touch CF filaments

[fresh plume]

They are fine

[slender oasis]

they are not

[fresh plume]

They are more fine then anything else CF lol

People use CF phone cases, glasses, wallets

They all fray and wear way more than most prints you'll make since there frequently used items

[slender oasis]

really really not, in real carbonfiber, its fully encased in a gel coat. in 3d printer filament those fibers are sticking out and getting in your skin when you trouch it. the body has NO idea how to deal with raw elemental carbon, your immuine system cant see it so there is no inflimation to push it out like with say glass fibers

so it stays with you

[fresh plume]

Real carbon fiber is encase in resin... until its worn off lol

[slender oasis]

I wouldnt keep real carbon fiber around if that happened either.

[hoary siren]

Try printing ABS before you do any CF

Cause 80% of the time ABS is just what you need and you are paranoid

[fresh plume]

ASA*

[hoary siren]

Same thing

I mean

[fresh plume]

Easier to print, and better uv resistance

[hoary siren]

Not chemistrywise but it is

More expensive

[slender oasis]

barrely more

ASA is fairly cheap these days

[slim sandal]

how many failed prints before that matters

[hoary siren]

What ? Where ?

[fresh plume]

Its... not barely lol, Asa will stand years in sun without becoming brittle

[hoary siren]

Cause last time I check there was a 10 money difference per kilo

[fresh plume]

There the same price for me

[slender oasis]

its funny, I have ran into people that say ASA is easier to print and warps less and just as many oothers that say it is harder to print and warps more.

[hoary siren]

I guess it's brand dependant ?

[slender oasis]

maybe

[slim sandal]

about +$5 for a 1kg roll of asa over ABS

[fresh plume]

Sorry they are 1.5 money more

Wtf are you buying for $5

[slender oasis]

also who sales 2kg rolls? I have only seen 1 and 3

[hoary siren]

https://www.3djake.fr/polymaker/abs-black-16?sai=4844 ABS

[fresh plume]

I can send you a ream of screenshots of 15-18$

[hoary siren]

https://www.3djake.fr/polymaker/asa-black-11?sai=5245 ASA

[slim sandal]

auto converted and then used metric units

[fresh plume]

Ope thats french

[hoary siren]

5€ difference

well yea cause I am

[slender oasis]

I will probably never use ABS or ASA, I am super sensitive to the smell and effects of the fumes.

[slim sandal]

grow tent

[hoary siren]

Counterpoint : Put your printer outside for a while

[slender oasis]

maybe if I ever get a workshop where I can vent an enclosued printer outside or something and its not all in the same room where I work/live

[hoary siren]

Or ☝️ Use my genius setup

[slender oasis]

I am an apartment dweller. very limited in what I can do

main reason I want an enclosed printer is nylon

and if I am feeling brave maybe PP

[slender oasis]

sadly both are exspensive

[fresh plume]

All I can say is this thing doesnt care about the fumes and I cant smell anything so I print whatever and hope tge hepa filter in the H2 catches anything hazardous

[hoary siren]

Genius setup

[slim sandal]

wish the weather here let me do that more but alass there is a reason I am designing a part the fits in the window frame for HVAC stuffs

[slender oasis]

I have a blower and window vent setup for my spray booth and laser. but as that has to be in my kitchen there is no room for a printer as well, there is no room for the laser either so it has to be taken down when I use it. real pain in the butt so I almost never get it out. I really need a better place. being a maker in a closet sized efficency apartment sucks

[slim sandal]

oof I have an apartment as well but it is far from a closet

[humble terrace]

Only $55 at pre-order. Sounds like they're trying to make up for lost goodwill.

I wonder if people are going to try to hack that into other printers

[slim sandal]

I mean the it is not a large part so should not be that expensive (50seems reasoable) (granted IDK what other AMS options cost)

[humble terrace]

a LOT more than that

[fresh plume]

I am very acquainted with ams costs XD

[slim sandal]

granted most AMSs have an enclosure and are not a bolt on feed controler

or are some of them that simple

cause that is the AMS for the carbon

only issue they don't seem to give you the new lid and this AMS enters through the top odds are in a few week some one will make a moutn that lets you enclose the print area

mounting is the same on the 2 but it has a giant dome that let you use higher end plastics with the AMS

[viscid violet]

Polypropylene glass filled is arguably the best stuff to print if you can do so. And afford it.

The layer adhesion is so high when done correctly that it'll tear across the layers. Truly awesome prints with no drying needed.

[slim sandal]

I imagine that pp will come down in cost as it gets more support given how common it is as a plastic

Shame hdpe blows for 3d printing

From what I have read it as low layer adhesion

[humble terrace]

Speaking of HDPE, I've got a part that's marked HDPE that I need to try to repair some cracks. Going to try some sort of heat welding it.

[slender oasis]

but its SO exspensive!

yeah its weird that PP is so exspensive as a filament. just demand I guess. sadly its not seen much of a surge in popularity either because of its 2 main problems. being warp happy if not fiber filled and only sticking to its self

I still think GFPP is probably a great material for RC aircraft and drones. the glass should stiffen it up enough to be useful structuraly while still having good impact resistant and its one of the lowest density filaments you can print unless you count foam

[slim sandal]

The more stuff for pp that comes out the the cheaper all of that will get
Pp only sticking to it's self is also helpful
How much heat does it need

[slender oasis]

I think it prints a little hotter then PETG but not bad

the low surface energy of PP is useful when your using it for a lab cup... its less useful when you want the print to actually stick to the print bed, or you need to glue or or paint it.

[brisk moth]

is PP the one you print on kapton tape?

or am I thinking... PC?

[slender oasis]

have to print it on PP tape or a PP build plate or using a stupidly exspensive magic glue stick.

you use packing tape for PP, packing tape is generally PP but not always so you have to make sure its the right one

it can be painted but it takes lots of surface prep. cleaning, sanding, adhesion promoters ment for PP. this stuff exists because PP is used for things like bumper covers on newer cars

you cant glue it, not in any way that will last

at least I have never heard of a way to do it

Kapton was used for ABS in the early days of 3d printing

[fresh plume]

A mystical fairy once told me, 15 amps from one outlet max is a suggestion

[slender oasis]

its a suggestion for people that like to avoid things catching fire

[oak notch]

Depends on which country you're in. US? Awww, UK/EU? Please don't.

[oak notch]

Fun fact (from the datasheet), 1.5mm 3 core flex can actually take up to like 20a. in free and open air. What you'd want to do running 20a. through a 1.5mm cable, lord knows, and IEEE definitely don't recommend it. But technically, you can.

[slender oasis]

75% margin. just because it can handle 20a dosnt mean you should

[oak notch]

Oh, yeah, I was being a little facetious, had to do an assignment when taking my electronics course on CCC's and cable types. It's wild what you can use, but really shouldn't in electrical/electronic

[slender oasis]

I mean it can handle even more then 20amps... just a qeustion of for how long

[oak notch]

Yeah, 20a was sustained, specifically in free and open air - if it's in a wall, it goes down to like 10. But as you say, take whatever number they give you, and apply at most 4/5ths of it

[slender oasis]

its amazing how warm the short suposadly 15amp rated extension cord I have to use for my toaster gets. its an 800w toaster so far from the 1500w the thing says it can handle but it still gets hot to the touch making a single toasting run

[oak notch]

Yeah, that's because of the length, another factor in electrical network design 🙂 What voltage are you on?

[slender oasis]

120

but that is my point, this thing is rated at 1500w and its a damn lie. if I were to put something on this line that drew a constant 800w I would be worried about it catching fire eventually let alone 1500w. for the short time it takes to make a round of toast its not a problem but what if it was a toaster oven or air frier. that would be a total fire hazard as those are higher power and can run for hours potentially

[oak notch]

Worth asking at this time in the morning. W is less important than amps when it comes to heat generation, but, that's still only 6.5 amps. Definitely shouldn't be warming up that much

[slender oasis]

yeah it just pisses me off how much they lie on these things. package said it was a 14gauge cord, I bet you anything if I cut it open and messure it I would find the wires are actually 16 or even 18.

[oak notch]

Agreed

[slender oasis]

can never trust that stuff. actually to the point where I would rather make my own extension cords

[tight river]

Over here, anything more than 16 amps on a group will trip the breaker (if everything was installed correctly)

[slim sandal]

Also useful as a form for composites even epoxies fail to adhere to pp

It depends on your use case as with all material

[fresh plume]

Just needs the last boarding pod and the railgun

[viscid violet]

If you're buying pp filament the glue stick is cheap by comparison. And it works great

But I don't touch the stuff unless its GF.

[slender oasis]

seeing as I dont have a heated chamber I dont think I would have a snowballs chance in hell of printing pure PP without it warping into a bannana

[viscid violet]

I do have a heated chamber and can't do it

[slender oasis]

is it actually worse then nylon?

[brisk moth]

Nylon is pretty simple as far as interesting filaments go

[slender oasis]

I have heard that nylon without fiber is a warping nightmare

[brisk moth]

You can print nylon outside of an enclosure. Let alone an unheated enclosure. Mind you this doesnt work well for large or tall parts, and layer adhesion isn't going to be as great as if it was in a heated box. But it can be done

[slender oasis]

well you can design your parts to be warp resistant as well but there is only so much you can do in some cases

[hoary siren]

Hair spray works wonders

[swift scroll]

@fresh plume soo about that Polymax PC 😅

Also ouch, the PPA-CF Core is 1300 sek / 130 usd for a roll.

[fresh plume]

Yikes

Uh

Let me do a bolt load test for you

PC just doesnt have the toughness you need. If I'm not mistaken that's not even delamination that's just a straight Crack ruining perpendicular to the layers

Are those holes oversized? Or slotted?

[slender oasis]

I really dont think PC is the right filament for that. nylon might work better but I think it can be a bit creepy

if you need a bolt through it what about adding some kind of metal grommet around the bolt hole?

like the ones you put in nylon straps or for boot laces. I think those are easy to install

search fabric grommets, they are cheap and tend to come with the tool to install them. little metal reenforcement around the whole could go a long way

would only work if they are round, if its slotted I am not sure they make grommets for that

[swift scroll]

oh its getting reprinted in ppa-cf core or something simmilar

as sonn as i can repair my h2s, but thats looking like it may be a month out ....

Absolutley everyone is out of stock for the h2s and h2d right heating blocks.

Sent a support ticket to Bambu incase they happen to have some stashed away in a corner somewhere.

[swift scroll]

Its motor mounts for a 3d printed drone

[slender oasis]

the area that is cracking is those slot parts on the 4 pilons?

that is an interesting shape, is the hoop acting as a box wing?

think I remember you saying this is an FPV drone

[swift scroll]

its a 200 km/h+ fpv drone yes 🙂

And yes, its the slots for the motor mount screws that are cracking.

its designed with a low drag airfoil for flying at a 45 degree angle.

And the one piece /ring design makes it so there's virtually no frame resonance vibrations. Letting the flight controller easily filter out motor vibrations as it knows their rpm.

[swift scroll]

Hm i do have some of bambus paht-cf and ppa-cf at home. I should be able to print a 2mm spacer under each motor mount and use longer screws.

That should massivley offload the stress in that area

[fresh plume]

Yea, looking at that file tbh its not a good design... 200kph isnt very fast speaking generally but with those skinny spars and trying to use a heavy battery and large props its going to give out alot of torque... the best option honestly would be a redesign to offload the torque stresses, having CF or aluminum rods transferring loads and larger plates to distribute force from bolts... its not impossible to get that to work fully printed... but using a very tough frame with the printed parts acting more like aerodynamic refinement surfaces (an outer skin) would result in a drone that would stand up indefinitely, with relatively little increase in cost.

For fully printed i have to ask about slicer settings, are you using brick layers? Ironing, are your temps calibrated for inter layer strength? How many walls. What infill type and percentage... and what bottom surface pattern are you using?

Assuming worse case scenario at 200kph and in 1/10 of a second you throw that 180deg around thats about... 56G's?

Thats (with alot of very conservative guessing) about 75MPA that would be exerted on the spars... so using that, brick layers, and printing at 100% infill you can estimate what material you need with that number by checking the bending strength on the MDS for most materials

By my numbers here ABS would just barely stand up to the load, with almost any more extreme plastics standing up perfectly to the loading, nylon being double the needed strength

If my numbers come out different to yours I was using a fair bit of guessing based off averages so it could be very high or slightly low if your using very very strong motors

[fresh plume]

Ill just give my final thoughts here and then stop replying with these long things... PA6-CF is your go to material here, it has enough stiffness and durability to survive for prolonged periods of time, it has vibration dampening properties for your camera is heat resistant and relatively easy to print, if you use PC or PPS as a sleeve and large washer for your bolts to deal with nylons creep issue. Print settings I would advise adaptive cubic or 3d honeycomb at 40-50% with 4-6 walls, print it slowly with no cooling and if possible use dissimilar material supports... nylon has a tendency to cling to the nozzle during longer prints to inserting a wipe command every... 2 or so hours in your G-code would be advisable. In addition use Brick layers to avoid delamination in critical areas.

Since your running an H2S make sure your chamber is heated up to the appropriate level and that theres no funny business with cooling happening, that will for sure cause problems down the line

If youd like I can print a test object with that material and those settings and expose it to extreme circumstances to show that it'll work

[mossy urchin]

Hey, me Again...
Trying to print this Carbon-Fiber Texture Benchy with accents made from another material.
I have the accents imported as a negative Mesh Boolean, slicer seems to compute them correctly. (second screenshot)
However for the slicer to be able to have them as a separate material, I need to first apply the mesh boolean and then merge the accents with the other object, as it otherwise prints supports inside the black base.

When applying the mesh boolean it just seems to bug out and doesn't actually remove anything (fourth screenshot)

Any ideas anyone?
I only have the carbon fiber version as a messy stl. the accents are taken from the benchy "source code"

[mossy urchin]

given the bad geometry, painting by hand does not seem feasible.

nvm, the slicer seems to handle overlaying one object onto the other just fine, if you merge them into a single object 🤔

would NOT have tried that if I wasn't grasping at straws at this point

[mossy urchin]

lets see if I can combine ASA and PLA 😈
#copium

[tribal hedge]

https://www.kkinstagram.com/reel/DT4wPjFiEvx

[swift scroll]

@fresh plume i should probably clarify some things. In no way form or shape am i even close to pulling 56g

This is not Adderall/Ai fueled fpv racing/freestyle 😅
Its a livestreaming drone for car track racing. It flies in mostly straight/slight bends and a typical flight doesnt go over 5g. Its turn rate is limited to 360 degrees/s at full deflection, and im never anywhere close to that at higher speeds. In most corners its not even experiencing 3g.

It does 240km/h at 160A while my regular frame does 190 at 200A.

So what it is, is a much more efficient frame that loves to cruise around 150-160. While that would have been pushing the regular one fairly hard.

You never want to do any large drone mauvers at high throttle, as thats just going to saturate the motors resulting in crap footage 😅

[molten pilot]

lol

[slender oasis]

it still blows my mind the wattage that those drones run at. I mean allot of these drones run at 2-4kw. thats like 5hp or so, so these things are on the high end for a lawn mower even pushing into riding lawn mower power levels... and they are freaking tiny!

its higher then the amount you can draw from a standard US 120v 15amp breaker. those are onlky 1500w. its about the same power you can draw from a single breaker over in 240 land. thats allot of juice

[tight river]

Yeah, they don't recommend pulling more than 3kw here on a single breaker in 230v land

And that's ac, i take it those drones do dc

[slender oasis]

technically kinda... brushless motors are funny

difference betwean and AC 3 phase induction motor and a DC brushless motor is not much

basically DC brushless motors became practical when eletronic switching tech reached a level they could control them and that control looks allot like faking AC 3phase and the motor designs are almost the same. not quite and I am sure some electronics nerds will yell at me for saying so but close enough for the rest of us

[brisk moth]

brushless is magic

[slender oasis]

3 techs all matured around the same time and it gave us drones. brushless DC motors became practical because of advances in micro controllers. micro controller tech became advanced enough and fast enough to handle the complex flight stablization and control for quads. battery tech became advanced enough to handle the insane power output needed for them.

I should say DC brushless has been around a while its the ability to control them well that is new-ish. used to be single speed only kind of thing

[brisk moth]

nicd could already mostly do the current, it just didnt have the energy density to really be viable.

[slender oasis]

at least this is my understanding. I am in no way an expert

[brisk moth]

neither 😆

[tight river]

And the heavy metals aren't good either

[slender oasis]

yeah, nicd was kinda nasty

[brisk moth]

I almost brought up lead-acid as well 😆

[slender oasis]

cadnium is just fucking horrible

[tight river]

I mean, i build electronic stuff for a living now, but I'm far from an expert

[slender oasis]

I have a set of nicd cells I need to find a disposal site for

[tight river]

https://tenor.com/view/throw-toss-pitch-dump-shot-gif-16052597

[brisk moth]

I.. should have checked if my local one would take them actually. we only took dead lipos up, and I am confident we could have found a bucket of alkalines to go with

[slender oasis]

the set from my old drill battery. I have shown you guys the lithium battery I replaced them with. this fun little project... was kinda scary to build!

[tight river]

Yeah old nicd can be replaced with liion but I'd just buy a new tool at that point

[slender oasis]

4s 21700

I like my drill. didnt want a new one. it was from the days when tools didnt suck

that nicd battery in it last 25 fucking years!

[tight river]

All my handtools are old, all my cordless stuff is new

I have a li-ion that's still going strong after ~14 years iirc

[slender oasis]

it was also a drill and saw set. so replacing it was going to be exspensive compared to building the battery. then the saw's motor died on me right after

go figure

need to get a new motor for it. just a common brushed dc 775. just need to work out what RPM it is

but they are like 10-15 bucks

part of it is I would rather fix something then replace it if I can. I dont like our disposable world.