#3d-printing
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
you can take them out and drive them with a dac <3
thats how they are driven too.
i found out by seeing this
its likely made by ALPS but the magics of mass adaptation brought their cost from 17 dollars down to 2 dollars

i think a filter would benefit you from playing frequencies that don't really make much of a response in the unit.
if you get a poc to upload your own audio file as loop for vibration then lmk
i bought a couple
currently im consumed with my VRchat world perifferal called thermband
im not sure if the dev board drives the motor from the io ribbon directly or if it can be controlled via the rpi tho
which doesnt rely on avatar intergration but rather world intergration
you need an amplifcation stage.. hence that article says "However the vibrations seems a little weak"
and likely with a filter you could tune the recorded samples in such a way you only send whats really tactile.
i havent given it much time but i dread the idea of working with steamvr's limited enviroment on it.. im a bit more of a fan of the input being send externally.
vives though barely output enough power to drive the lra, its suuper weak
steamvr drivers and enviroment is mega shiver.,
youd do this on a hardware level
doing it driver level doesnt make sense since youd need to rework watchman protocol
Middle = OFF
Top is heating
Bottom is cooling
prototype one is done end of next week.. im just finishing the bracket then its ready and will be send out to 3 world creators to intergrate and try.
vrchat client (that doesnt break EAC or TOS) is almost done
yeah any work that involves steamvr is instantly a nightmare.
anyway im going back to working on it. crunch time
anyone else here have a k1c or a k1?
been trying to print with marble but it keeps getting clogged up or something
I've got a question about leveling. I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 plus. It measures the distance between the needle and points on the board; how close together should those numbers be? Mine are ranging from .01 to .20 and it took hours just to get that far. Is that going to throw me off a lot?
based name
Based
Lmfao didn't expect to see you here, hope you've been well!
A difference of .01 and .2 can affect your first layer adhesion pretty intensely. Ideally you'd like them to be somewhere around .05 of eachother. A variance of .2 can cause issues (especially on prints with smaller layer heights) where some areas might not adhere well, or might be too squished
If you're having issues getting it level I'd check to see if you have a warped bed or not. Also, after you run the auto bed leveling are you fine tuning with the knobs, and then checking if you feel slight resistance when running a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed at different points?
Lol hi there!
Finally got it leveled thankfully, but thank you for the advice!!
It's a family recipe!
oh hello..
i thought about getting into avatar creation n stuff
and i obviously play vrchat 
Make femboy avatars
Peak game
@pliant mountain Back off @white prairie is taken..
By me ofc.

Hello crafty rav
Is my name unique
Only person named bigblackman here
Im amazing ik
no
Huh
Gamers, gamers.
I've not touched 3d print in my life so far but I'm ready to do the big jump, however big time unsure of what kind of printer to get. Mainly for self project and stuff like this, the printer would be in my room (if I die I die) ; any recommendations? I'm looking at the Bambu lab p1p right now 
a1 or a1 mini
usully more than enough for 99% of people
Ohh really
That's interesting anyway
man pla+ is useless as shit
Why what's the problem
pla+ has a slightly lower melting point
makes it faster to print
also is less rigid than traditional pla
has worse layer adhesion cause of that i think
My first attempt went okay printing my avatar. It is 200mm tall. Unfortunately I did not thicken the hair enough for this scale so it did not generate in the slicer. This was printed on my buddy's Bamboo Labs A1 with Elagoo PLA
I am printing a 420mm version currently out of SEBS which is a flexible elastomer. My printer is old and still running marlin firmware atm. But it is turning out better than I thought!
this makes me want to print my avatar
mfw
we ball, les do it

BALLLD
What I did was take it into blender, seperated out all thin features like the hair and added a solidify modifier to them. Just change the offset value to 0 and you'll need to play the thickness until it looks right to you. Just a heads up, you'll have to delete any shapekeys before you can use a solidify modifier.
I also subdivided and smoothed the model so it wasn't so low poly looking. (Started at like 70k tris and ended up at over 1 million)
I spent hours today removing the support so far. I've still got a ways to be as I am still removing support from the hair. Im definitely done messing with it for today though.
I made a Noface cosplay for FanX I designed and 3d printed the mask too
Any way, I can transfer a an Avatar model into a 3d printer? And if I can, where might I be able to find that model? I would like to make a costume of a certain avatar.
You would need the FBX of the avatar model, convert it in blender to be 3d print compatible (an STL), make sure it's solid (no floating or one sided objects), and pose it if it's a figure. For a costume you're going to need to do slicing of the model, hollow it out, and a ton of fitting work that would basic need a good background in custom cosplay gear.
that makes it sound way more complicated than it actually is
in blender any holes u just seal up in edit mode, and use the solidify modifier on any 2d parts
The costume part is probably the really complicated part. xD
oh man that's an old conversation. 😂 sorry for the ping
Pls how do you go out about it
By reading the replies
(in a nutshell, you need some 3d modeling skills)
can someone help me i have a creality ender 3s pro and i cant print for some reason its either the thing im printing is too small or it sticks to the nossel idk what to do
If the object you're printing has a small surface area to the bed and could easily come off the bed you'll want to turn on the build plate adhesion in your settings so that the object won't move
i did that i think
made valorant sherrif
Simple duck with a hat accessory. I don't know what to color it though.
make it green to look like a dino or croc
mekanik, i fix et
Made Eren vs Reiner as a school project. Painted it as well. Also additional renders, cause erens face is not properly shown on the pics sadly
around 30cm in length, and 14 in height
that is awesome what the fuck
thanks 😄
Is that uploaded on thingiverse?
I have the P1S and honestly the P1P is good too. I also have the AMS which I highly recommend.
My goblin slayer final look, and now working on new projects
You should paint it next
Not sure what paint would work on that material. It's very flexible so I'm thinking it would not work
Also sorry for the month long reply
Get Real
omg that's so good
almost done for printing
<@&397642795457970181>
aww this is cute !
Anyone know how I could make the text yellow and white, with a green button- not printing sperately from the badge itself? (The badge is gonna be red, I have a p1p / trying to fix this in bambulabs) (my badge on right)
Can't do it by layer because the walls of the badge are higher then the text will be; and I would rather not print out the letters separately, just wanna print directly onto the badge. Is this possible without color swapping manually a bunch?
I got Bambu lab P1S w/ combo, you just need to add a color sections on the software, then click the print you want to highlight.
You just need press the paint bucket, then click the color you want and then color it on the word
I don't have lines for multicolor printing, would have to be manual
I don't have the add on
What software you using? I can print one for ya if need 😄
BambuLabs, I'd like to do it myself since I wanna make a bunch for friends 😅
Plus wanting to learn
Ahh… i see, hmm so you just trying to print one color at a time to make it together?
Yes, but the lip of the badge is higher then the text. I don't want to print the text seperate and have to glue it on, just wanna print directly onto it.
I do know an idea that other print file dose do separate printing in 1… i gotta find that and this gives me an idea! Can print w/ other color at the same time (it won’t damage the print)
Was wondering what would be the easiest way to do it without doing it all seperate.
I don't mind manually swapping colors, just don't wanna do it a million times
Yeah no i understand what you saying, like for Ex: you want two shape but don’t want do separate print! Like want Red square and yellow star BUT in same time printing PLUS pause mode to give access to switch colors
If wanna dm me panda, i can try figure it out when i get back home! Happy to learn something new to help you 😄
Y e s!
Also sweet thank you!
Ay no problem 😄 happy to help others ❤️
dose anyone do resin 3d printing?
I don't think switching colors manually would work in your case
because it's not the only thing at that height
But you can always manually paint the letters yellow after printing
Yeah I think I'm gonna have too 😔
I had done resin 3d prints
DAMN
what printer is that
thats actually crazy that looks so good
Elegoo Saturn the old version, wated a figurine from ghost in the shell, couldn’t find any in conventions so i printed one 
oh man i was looking at the new version since its quite cheap
thats sealed my fate
thx!
Just make sure to do the research on fumes and proper PPE if this is your first printer.
im not sure what the properties of resin is but im assuming its like abs and asa where breathing it = bad
Well if u haven’t worked with resin, the liquid it self is harmful if its on the skin and gets activated by UV lamp or the sun. Gloves are a must, most resin requires alcohol to clean it unless using water based ones. It’s more messy compared to filament.
yeah resin is a whole new level of annoying to take care of compared to filaments
that's why I went for a filament printer
same. I clean my printer like once every few months if that
omg I gotta change my name from april 1st.
Lol
scammer
Hell yeah
Thought this was a really nice guide to designing models for 3D printing:
<@&397642795457970181>
I need that
simple self center 3d print jig works wonderfully on these extrusion
That is... Truly beautiful. You deserve an award
That is ridiculously cool, also ye I know I am 3 months late
an OLD irl friend and former bandmate. he's starting to do youtube videos. he paints figurines for a hobby. just released a new vid. check it out!
https://youtu.be/aK_yYlNMOSw
Timelapse & tutorial of how I painted this incredible 1/6 Scale #3dprinted #figure of #zoro from the #onepiece #anime & #manga
In this video, you will see how I airbrush lacquer paint, handpaint acrylic and enamel paint, and apply pastels to create a stunning stylized realistic model of Zoro.
Check out: How I Painted the ULTIMATE Super Sai...
You can't do that bud this is advertising
its more than advertising, it's straight scamming lol @north anvil
yeah it is
oh that boring type of scam 
I don't know if you can, she's just my friend before she was a mod xD
Ah ok
probably fine to @ active chat mods
if people fall for that, issue of skill
Yeah
Oh i think that you can use this too <@&397642795457970181>

Sorry am at work!
3D printed the VRChat logo and put it on a necklace :D
Here's the C?
the vrc logo is just vr in a bubble
or its the full two tone vrchat logo, but that doesnt work as well
My Eva01 cosplay helmet (body in progress)
that is going to look so good when it is finished, from how the helm turned out, and even tho i just started watching the anime you have it spot on keep it up
Amazing lol
<@&397642795457970181>
<@&397642795457970181>
all good
you can report by right click
its faster to just ping >.>
xd
true
one sec
got real
Holy shit this is amazing omg
<@&397642795457970181> 
Sadness he got botted
<@&397642795457970181>
kk
<@&397642795457970181>
ty pookie
My cosplay assemble, all 3d printed parts
That's the coolest thing I've seen all day
Oh my lord
Made some mask to watch the movie
alright..
Danm
Hi
Says hi in the most dead chat ever
Cool I love it
Can you see through that screen?
Where did you get the file??
Used the files from cults3d by Unknown-Cosplay
Ohhhh woah
I actually like the outlook
Do you mostly buy files online??
Yes, sometimes take some files from other sites that make 3d files and i edit it to be printable like the rifle.
Plus taken a couple models from vrchat to print as figurines
cute!!
To bad 3d printing replicas even video game gun models illegal here.
Nani?
Whats up with this scam popping up so often?
Well, it's a big public discord.
Normally it should be bot nuked but... Dyno moment. 
Making progress on a new project
U selling?
Not yet still on the process of learning to make things better
commissioned a custom sculpted, 3d printed and painted version of my main vrc avatar.
That looks nice, still learning on how to do skin correctly plus eyes
My current slow progress
Is it normal that 80%+ of all youtube tutorials, related to laser engraving or cnc are in german language?
#GermanEngineering. 
Cuz we all know germans are the best at engineering.
There is a 3d printing section here?! HELL YES!!!
I have an creality ender 3 v3 ke right now and its a beast as everything it does.
Oh i have a creality k2 plus combo a much bigger upgrade to my old elegoo Neptune 3 for making big parts and have the original elegoo saturn for the figurines since resin does better details
Finally completed
Lol, it came out clean
Bruh no one messages here huh well I'ma gonna change that! Boom 3D printed dragon
Nice Little multi color dragon
Did end up replacing it with the new logo! I personally like it better :D
My current project
Hi, tell me what software you used to transmit vibration to the motors.
haptic pancake
weowowow loooks so cool
Btw just a question my sd card won’t format anymore and nothing is coming up on the 3d printer about any of my 3d models to it fix any more could that be caused by me taking it out of the usb and not pressuring eject
On the usb icon and right clicking to eject?
Thats shouldn’t be a problem with modern PCs, i had same issue with my Resin printer and one method that worked for some reason was to rename the file and to make sure that its save in a file that the printer can find. Other issue as well is that your SD card might gotten corrupted or busted.
Ok👍
Fully printed tank ISU 152, Machine gun was printed on resin everything else was printed with filament ASA
working a fox fursuit mask from my avatar:
More parts for details have been printed
Fully complete tank in the snow
Tuffff
My first parametric model (and first fusion project) is complete !!!
I followed a print designed for 1018 steel lol
i have decided that tonight i am going to create my own type of pegboard
Throwback to my old FanX costume, I modeled and printed the mask and sewed the fabric
????how are you DOING that???
Found a nice file and instructions on how to put it together, using the board from a toy tank manufacturer to get the smoke, motors and effects to work . Had to edit some of the gears to work with the belts that i bought. It looks soo nice in the snow
WIP of a Heavy Mandalorian set I’m working on. Right around 600 hours of print time so far. I’m also decimating down the stls so I can make it into an avi as well!
nice i am redoing my armor harness, a pain to get on by my self. ( never enjoy the sanding part)
-# Not fully painted in yet
R2-D2
Big print.
👍
interesting,
Hello all joining the channel. We've got some printer owners in the community and I wanted a place to share and discuss cool stuff I've printed from VRChat and also useful VR stuff like the design @agile escarp released on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2540120
This is a charging dock for HTC's Vive Tracker pucks. I've modeled this to perfectly form-fit the trackers, using HTC's own CAD files as a dimension reference.
I've followed SG-O's standard on the cord inserts. (As seen in his thing here) I've only included the custom usb cord inserts for the stock Vive USB cords. But if you have another type that works with SG-O's inserts you can just use those. Either will work with this design, just those aren't going to be as form hugging since they were made for the controllers.
Pictured with my chargers is the remix for SG-O's chargers by abcdqfr, from here.
HTC's CAD files for the tracker can be found on their developer page for the trackers here. Direct download here.
interesting, might have to boot up the makerbot again some time 😃
This was my first full Avatar I made in sketchup and 3D printed. Anyone who was at Tesla's bday celebrations will recognize it as the giant robots out back. Note the handy key list for the various things I could "print" out of my stomach in VR. https://imgur.com/5Hb1bYE
@faint flame I hope for your sake it's a Replicator 1, same as mine. No love for Stratasys Sith version of MakerBots from me. lol
replicator 2, definitely have had my fare share of issues. the main board on the bottom of it shorted out a couple years ago and electrocuted me 😃
Someday I'll share my Stratasys conspiracy theories with ya.... Maybe on Global 3D Printing Day (Dec 3rd, "3D") we can have a storytellers session amongst VRChat printers.
pretty cool to have this channel available though. it can be quite frustrating trying to troubleshoot printer issues on my own, part of the reason i haven't touched it in a long time
@balmy plaza the controller bases are a different thing number on that site by another designer I think. I always recommend finding a local printer thru sites like 3dHubs or visiting your local makerspace and sometimes the local library. On hubs you can sometimes find the option for recycled plastic too.
Hoyo!
This is my printer
That's my current printer. Wanhao i3 v2.1 with zbrace mod, custom adjustable feet, custom spool Holder, glass bed
And soon it'll be modded with an auto level sensor
My past prints
Does the ocarina work?
I wonder about that too
ooo I want one! http://www.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk3-bloody-smart/
I love the y axis upgrade, been wanting to see improvement there for ages
I think I know what my next printer will be after my move :3
I reccomend this dock for anyone with Vive controlers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547535
I got it printed by a local guy I found on 3dhubs, cost me about $20. I have never had issue with dying Vive controllers since then, as I always drop them in the dock when I am not using them.
A remix of the original stand by SG-O that takes two controllers back-to-back with minimal footprint. Takes the same cable inserts as the original; see that Thing (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1443154) to get the files for them.
Working on getting this guy into
so I can have a proper drink at the Pug. https://imgur.com/GoCMKP1
@sonic tree Where does the cable fit in?
Also doesn't leaving things on charge hurt their lifetime?
The cable fits in using a set of inserts that can found linked in the description. I am pretty that whole leaving things charging damages them thing stopped being a problem years ago.
it doesn't cause it to discharge?
I was hoping that people would be willing to share some of their VRC related models. Would anyone be willing to share them here or provide links to thingiverse or where ever else you may have uploaded them.
@stuck elk here is a tpose GizmoDuck I used for an avatar, remixed from a relaxed pose model someone printed. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1524400
here is the printed model from original designer https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/42/c1/27/48/6c/4c80332f6cd0b1c49f01cb18b1559673_preview_featured.jpg
awesome, it would be nice to pin models too for easier recall
I have a couple of VR things on my thingiverse profile. This one is a key holder thing I designed in Oculus Medium and printed in ProtoPasta carbon fiber and stainless steel PLA.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2031295
I wanted to use the virtual reality app Oculus Medium to design a 3D printable object that was somehow useful. This is an early attempt at that idea, based on a popular key holder design that I have myself printed and used before. To enhance the ornate features, which is the only thing that makes this object any more than a stick with holes, I printed in contrasting layers of ProtoPasta composite PLA filament. More images from process: http://imgur.com/a/vBRPe
Pretty sure my avatar would prove frustrating to print, if not impossible
Mine could be doable but would need a lot of touch touch up after removing the supports off of every damn piece...
You would need little transparent support pieces between every part
@prime hinge Yours would probably be best printed on a resin printer in clear resin.
That would be awsome, it's a shame SLA printers costs so much
Monoprice is supposed to be releasing a version of the Wanhao resin printer at some point. It's still probably going to be around $500USD but it's a lot cheaper than the Form 2's $3500
Dang! Sadly I think my first printer will still probably be a filament(forgot the real name) based one
Maybe a wanhao i3 or other bran equivalent
One day I'll have one!
The resin itself is still pretty expensive compared to filament so unless you really need the detail FDM is still worth it. Also I've heard that working with resin can be messier.
I'm still waiting for the resin costs to come down before I'd consider getting one.
this whole channel is my new favorite! I've wanted to get into printing for years but I have so many hobbies already. So tempting tho...
love the vive docks
Guyssss I have access to a 3D printer at my collegeee
Wanna 3D print a charging stand for my controllers or anything cool for my Vive :o
Anything you guys would reccomend I get printed
@nimble pine I'm pretty sure that this is the controller stand that is pictured in the pic @agile escarp used for his puck file and I think @serene beacon may have printed the same one. Reliable file that should be a straight forward print. If there are time constraints on your printer access at school, it would look/work fine at a low infill setting and high layer height setting which gives you a much quicker print time. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1540715
Designed to fit within 150mm³. Completely compatible with the inserts provided by the source design. Enjoy!
P.S. If you're using wiimote wrist straps, you'll want to set your printing software to not print print the top ~1/5 of the model to accommodate. The stock Vive straps will slip into the groove, but the wii clasps are too large for that.
yep that's the one I used, can recommend ^
Someone have same for rift controller?
That one might not fit the newer blue wrist straps. I used to use a derivative of it but it doesn't fit the newer wrist straps.
Anything else you would reccomend for 3D printing :o
@serene beacon could you share your vrchat logo charm?
Is it worth it to invest in a 3d printer? Even a cheap one?
Your call. The cheap ones generally need a bunch of tweaking to get working properly.
@ivory wadi monoprice offers a few for under $400usd if you get the maker select v2 be sure to get a MOSFET(?) Adapter to limit the amps to help prevent fires/shorts
there contest going on win 3d printer
Neat AR print preview from r/3dprinting. https://imgur.com/9NSGtX9
Printed that vive controller stand in Carbon Fiber PLA with low rez settings (.35mm layer height, 11% infill, no supports) and @ 88mm/s top print speed, took about two hours https://imgur.com/7OLRPtj
Are the vrchat logos printed with a dual head or filament swapped out at the halfway point
Swapped out filament color manually. My MakerBot Rep1 has dual extrusion but if I'm gonna be around the printer for the duration of the print I'll usually do it this way. Plus the hot block and nozzle aren't even on the other side right now due to potential clearance issues. That other side loves to grab an errant bit of plastic and ruin hours of bot work.
Mmk, I'd love to get a dual headed printer one day, but I think I'll just get something like a monoprice maker select v2 for my first printer
Can we just admire the fact that you 3D printed Pill's head? Also, where can i buy one lol.
@winged blade this was so awesome. Love mine! Thanks man
what font has the vr chat logo?
@winged blade where can i find that VRPill Head for printing or did you make it yourself?
@vital vector the logo is also Dosis font I think. @gray coral I asked Pill for his head file and did some editing to make it printable for this project.
oh ok so theres probably no way to print that myself without modeling it myself?
I would love to pay any VRChatter to print out a Marlin or Crash "Woah!"!
lol
Gotta repost this here - https://youtu.be/rk5AlKtRVx8
Psych, Nomono, and AtomJaay peek into the future of 3D printing and how it will change the world! To join the discussion, plug your mind into VRchat on Wedne...
dont worry i know the feeling @steady salmon
3D print me a vrpill head that i can wear haha
I have a lot of experience with 3D printing and love it, would love to print something VRChat related, but no idea what
Has anyone consirded printing a cardboard set for their phone?
and then slapping that in VR chat
You can do that, but I think the hardest part of that would be the lenses. Body, no problem. Sourcing the lenses, no idea where to start
@willow hornet this one is what I used to first start coming into VRChat. It uses lenses from a LED magnifying glass you can get cheap. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729029
QR Code for calibration added thanks to BIG-E !!!!
Printable VR Headset for up to 5.5 inch smartphones.
Check Play Store for VR Apps.
Best App for movies is called "GoShow".
http://youtu.be/HP66i6zdx3U
http://www.arizona360vr.com/data/AZ360VR_assembly_instructions.pdf
Check out the SinfoniaSam's YouTube Special:
https://youtu.be/_I9uWayy394
UPDATE!
Added the file lenses_new.stl with slightly a different thread style and clearance. If you have trouble with printing the threaded lens-cup use this file instead.
I may have found my next project 😄
Ahaha, yea, I do have that hipster phone. But yea, getting the glass itself isn't easy
Most prices i found are 7-10 dollars, whichi is enough to just get an uncomfortable set on amazon @winged blade
I would also need to figure out how to use it with glasses
Yeah, I never said it was the cheapest option. It's just the coolest imo.
Turns out getting custom made VR lenses can be cheaper than getting glasses from most stores
Nice!
From this site at least, you could end up printing a custom frame too
I haven't tested this site, i literally just found it
Main problem I had when I first tried VR off my phone was the latency for games, bunch of programmes and apps didn't work very well. Any recommendations?
@normal sphinx is that mobile VR apps or tethering your phone to a pc to stream stereo image and emulate a mouse?
I forget details because this was a year and a bit ago now, I think I tried both, worked pretty well up to a point
Will definitely look into it again now that I have joined this community 😄
I used to use Trinus but not sure what state that is in atm. There are others who currently use the phone via lower end pc tether for VRChat, so, worth asking around to see what the best software combo is now.
Yeah, I remember trying Trinus, I think it was one of two I got to work. I'll ask around, thanks 😄
Do you think getting a group photo of a bunch of people, and cleaning up their model to 3d print would be hard to print?
I'm not sure what printer can handle that much complexity withou taking like, a week
well, probably closer to a few days
I imagine a large amount of it depends on how the group is captured (this will effect time taken in post processing before the print more) and the scale and the level of detail (which will have more of an impact on print time). Printers can manage quite a lot of complexity so I'm not sure what you mean by that
By that, I meant problems with small legs, and loads of retraction and hopping about
They are getting pretty cheap nowadays 😄
Hey does anyone have any advice on what 3D printer I should get?
Or should I just use a 3D printing service like shapeways?
@nova abyss Depends what sort of things you want to print to be honest. If you see your self using the printer a lot I think it is definitely worth it. If you think you will probably use it once or twice and never again using a 3D printing service may be better. I personally think that since many printers are getting so cheap now that I would recommend getting one so you can experiment a lot, but that is just me and the final choice is yours 😄
Hey @normal sphinx - Thanks for the reply. I am looking at printing minis (Think 40k, Warhammer fantasy, etc)
@nova abyss If you are thinking of printing minis and want to print a lot I recommend looking at the smaller printers since you probably won't need to worry about build
oops sent before I meant to
just a sec
ok no worries
since you probably won't need to worry about build volume. Smaller printers also tend to have a higher quality in my experience. I think it comes down to a question of whether you want quantity or quality and how much you are willing to pay. I have never used something like shapeways so i have no idea on costs for that 😄
So - I am willing to pay around 200 dollars for a 3D printer ATM
As for the Quantity or Quality Question - I honestly do not know If I should sacrifice quallity for quanity
I am still new to the hobby
My point with that question is if you are just going to make a few minis and want them to be of a high quality Shapeways or similar may be the way to go on a budget that tight. I would recommend getting a printer because they are so much fun to use though, you just need to do a lot of research to find the one that is right for you 😄
ok makes sense
If you have any other questions just let me know and I'll try to help in whatever way I can 😄
ok awesome
monoprice had their v2 minis on for like $200 black friday @nova abyss
not sure how good they are tbh
$220 - promo. not sure if it is still going on
@nova abyss instead of shapeways, you could use a site like 3DHubs to find a local printer for hire... although you may have to make an effort to sift through non-local options with new site changes they made. 😠 If you also filter by Hubs that have a resin printer like a FormLabs 1 or 2, it will be better suited for your particular needs. With this route you also have a better chance to learn about 3D printing in case you do decide to buy one, plus you connect with your local maker community members.
3DHubs is pretty great. My Vive controller dock was printed by a local 3D printer I found through there. Got it done for about $20, would have been over $100 on Shapeways. That being said, Shapeways is handy for some of their special high quality material options.
Thanks for the info guys 😃
Couldn't someone print like holders for the vive wands that keep them on your hands like knuckles? or is that poinless
like a kind of screw-tightened grip that then has rubber straps that go around your palms on the back and keep your hands on the grip
I think I know what I am getting 3D printer wise.
The AnyCubic I3 Mega
Chuck assembles the Anycubic I3 Mega 3D printer and shows you around the electronics and gives you a look at how well it prints. The Anycubic I3 Mega is arou...
I have a Anet A8 myself
though, I think I got some bad luck on my filament for this roll
though, if you're willing to drop a bit more money, that anycubic one will probably be more solid
the anet a8 is like, a printer for hobbyist and people who want to make their junk better over time, and be a bit cheaper
All about that CR-10, mate
Just got my wanhao i3 mini clone running! DEFINITELY need to play with the settings the first print came out pretty gnarly... dumb preloaded gcode
First couple good prints off my wanhao i3 mini clone, the tombstone I modeled in Google blocks and is the same model that's on my " Autumn Lake" map ingame
nice. @clemjohnson Do you have a printable avatar? I had to chop mine up into legs, torso and head for a decent size and print quality.
@winged blade I made mine in pieces with sketch up and it had hidden a ton of extra faces and such in each piece and none of the pieces were the same scale 😅
x.x
Oh be nice rad... that was the first time I never modeled anything thing in 3d for use ingame
i Kno, just hard to 3d print if you do want to
altho it would probably be hard to 3d print a rad too :3
A fancy SLA printer would probably have no problems, though they cost a few grand and the resin they us isn't cheap either
Also, I'm working on a google blocks chess set that will be very printer friendly. When it's done would anyone be interested in the files?
this is some rad stuff
super
For anyone with an Oculus (or other vr headset with sensor tracking) a 3d printed wallmount for your sensors is a nice touch to your setup. Especially if you do not have a lot of desk space like me haha. https://1drv.ms/v/s!At11OIi_VjtFm1Ki-R2GAT80bIlx
First print was a relative success, got a bit odd at the bottom, but that might've been due to the material being a bit weird from the way I set it up last night. (my cube on the left, example cube that came with the printer on the right)
Can't seem to get the print off the plate yet though.. Chisel ain't doin it.
@modern shell For my printer, I had to actually knock on the print a bit with something blunt (IE: A Hammer) before I could get my chisel under the print. Don't hit it too hard, just enough to shake 'em loose.
I find that repeatedly giving it light hits around the perimeter helps loosen stubborn prints.
Had a decent print going for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, when I suddenly lost connection to the printer, went to check on it and its screen was just entirely black and the print had stopped, nothing i did other then cutting its power had any effect.
rest in peace first big print
@modern shell use hairspray on the surface, maybe give the first layer some extra heat
Printer works almost flawlessly now, only problem left is that once it reaches the printing temprature of 220, some filament starts coming out of the extruder before it starts printing, leaving a bit of random fillament stuck to the extruder which is left somewhere random in the print, any fix to this?
Finally my wanhao i3 mini clone produced a benchy I'm happy enough to share! Still had a bunch of stinging but not bad for a cheap $200 usd printer
@modern shell You can set the printer to print a few perimeters offset from the print using the "skirt" setting if you aren't already. It helps to clear off the tip and also makes sure the extruder is primed.
Also are you printing PLA or ABS? 220°C is rather hot for PLA.
I think that's what it tries to do initially with this outline, maybe I tend to worry a bit too much and my "use scissors to surgically remove" might be making the issue a bit worse, so I think I'll try leaving it alone the next few prints
And its PLA yeah, but I'm not sure if this printer expects anything else.
I haven't told it to use any particular temprature, it sort of handles itself in that regard.
Print finally finished, can see some of those strands left by the initial issue here and there, though I think some of this geometry also got a bit too difficult for the printer, I probably should've scaled it up a bit more. main body looks nice though
I'm having a lot of trouble with my printer right now. It's underextruding a lot. Any tips?
@modern shell +1 for SG Atlantis @topaz onyx when's the last time you changed the nozzle? Sounds like a clog or buildup preventing the the flow of plastic.
I've tried to clean the nozzle a couple of times
I put the filament through with the long metal rod they provide
That's about all I do for the nozzle
I prefer a fresh nozzle when things get wonky. They're cheap enough to be considered a consumable and I have a collection of "to-be cleaned". If you are printing mostly PLA, cleaning 100% can be a bit tricky. If you've been running mostly ABS, soaking the nozzle in a closed jar with some acetone in it will dissolve the buildup pretty well.
I go through a lot of nozzles with running a lot of exotics (carbon fiber, steel fill, wood fill, etc) and recycled filament.
Assuming you have a std brass nozzle
http://bigwidelogic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mk8_nozzle.jpg
@winged blade You should get a hardened steel nozzle for your filled filaments.
I've cleaned out one of my nozzles with a gas torch. You have to be careful to not get it too hot or the plastic will burn.
PLA gets really thin and drains out of the nozzle like water.
@winged blade Okay, I actually didn't know that I could unscrew it like that
I'll give it a deep clean and unscrew it
@topaz onyx remember to re-seat it at temp when you screw it back in. Doing it cold can lead to loose nozzle problems. Removing it at temp is also recommended so you don't snap the nozzle at the threads.
Paper towels come in handy to avoid burns?
tiny wrenches and pliers
hold the heat block with the pliers and unscrew nozzle with the wrench or socket.
Yeah, if you forget it gets really messy.
You have to remove it while it's hot as well.
You'll probably break something if you try to do it cold.
You can start hot, loosen it, let it cool down, and then take it out the rest of the way.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot tonight, hopefully it goes smoothly
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/342102474192191499/396122235729084436/20171228_200347.jpg sometimes I forget that with a printer i can totaly remake props from my favorite games
bonus points if any one knows what this is and or from
my guess is a cypher from warframe, i might be wrong
It's the key to the city of Rapture from bioshock 1
Idk if this is the right place to post this. But:
If you have any problems printing this or have any questions whatsoever please leave a comment and I will get back to you as soon as I can!
This Gauntlet is FULLY PRINTABLE! The only extra thing needed is a glove for underneath! The Gauntlet is made for medium to large hands with a glove. Assembly is easy. Only the hinge connecting the thumb to the rest of the plates requires adhesion. I just used the tip of a hot glue gun to heat up the cap and melt the plastic together forming a strong bond.
The glove that I used to fit underneath the gauntlet is from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R7H1T2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Gauntlet is painted with primer and metallic spray paint. The buttons were hand painted red and the cords black.
I do take requests. I can alter this design and or make completely new ones based on what someone may want. Just leave a comment on an idea or concept and I can see what I can do! Message me privately so we can talk details!
If you do decide to print the whole gauntlet out be sure to take pictures and post itI want to see!
I make cosplay models and some VR related things
DM me if you're interested in me developing a part/cosplay item for you
Decided to go all in and printed this 7 hour print, so atleast I know my printer is stable enough to handle things at decent scale, complexity and time consumption.
Might be time to print some actual proper stuff with it.
@hot tundra ayy
same
@hot tundra the printer I have is dirt cheap (about $200 usd), but be warned, you get what you pay for... I'm learning that 😅
It's not terrible, but it definitely has its limits
It's clone of a wanhao i3 mini btw
I can kinda see it
@wheat cosmos did you make that model yourself?
I tweaked a camera thread model I found
Remade the base so it fits inside
You can tighten it with a coin
@wheat cosmos so they holded till now? i am actually wondering how to make a good mounting solution myself for my playstation move controllers and i am worried that 3d print might break, because of how it is layered. I have never tinkered with 3d printing, but it seems to be the only viable solution to mounting my controllers other than taping them to my legs.
Has anyone tried this ?
I'm not sure the modern FDM printer could pull that off, maybe an SLA printer, but you'll need a big ass print bed
@dapper sandal Yeah they are pretty solid
they havent snapped or anything I can upload the files to thingiverse
@wheat cosmos i dont need the file, since i dont have trackers, but playstaion move controllers. But it is nice to know that you can make stiff like this with a 3d printer. I will probably make my controller mounts with a 3d printing service then
standard pla seems to work just fine
Yeah, it's not indestructible but sure as hell have to try hard to snap it
nice
Not bad
what programms do you guys use to model things for 3d-print? and is there maybe a free (or cheap) one?
Blender and autodesk inventor (not free)
To convert it to gcode, I use simpli3d or something
Hell, even google blocks and other vr modeling software works, just need a .stl .mdl. obj. Or other 3d model file
Autodesk Fusion 360 is a free (for hobby and small scale commercial use) alternative to Autodesk Inventor.
i use blender, it takes some time, but you will love blender, with all the functions
if you are a student, you can get autodesk maya for free for 6 years I think
if you are a student even taking a weekedn class from an authorized autodesk facility , you get access to autodesk education accounts which gives you a 3 year non commercial license on everything.. soup to nuts.. maya to inventor to whatever
when will vrchat support windows mr headsets?
This is not the channle to ask this @wind copper
Try #feature-requests
And to my knowledge it already does
yeah windows mr headsets work
i dont really get why so many people ask when WMR is going to be supported when it was from the start
how precise are 3d printers? i am modeling some mounts for psmove controllers and playstation eye cameras and would like to know what kind of wiggle room i would need to give it. i will probably use a 3d printing service since i dont have a printer myself
They can be precise up to 1mm i believe
Depends on the printer tbh
Some expensive brands are more than that, yeah
But precision is usually not an issue with 3D printing
i guess actually i can just file them if something is not big enough
i guess i will probably need to sand at least the leg mounts anyways
shapeways is good if you don't have a printer.
I have a form 2 and it's very good precision [I made small car parts on the side, and print off co-workers zbrush sculptures]
Sculptris does pretty good for 3D printing even if I sometimes use Meshmixer to tweak it a touch
Work in progress :D
Yeah. Its really simple. Just draw a line with the pencil tool and click on convert to intrusion. Wayy easier than other programs.
Finished
Bad print... but I couldnt wait xD
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755107 heres the link. I published it on thingiverse
Nice, wish my damn printer could retract the filiment so my print came out clean,oh well, that's that's a $200 usd prebuilt printer for you😕
Cura, on a wanhao i3 mini clone
Turning retraction on makes its worse actually, the feeder only moves one way
So retraction moves push more pla out
😕
Powerspec brand to be precise
I might upgrade when tax season rolls around
@dapper sandal It depends on the printer and how well you have your extrusion multiplier calibrated.
There are some tests you can print to calibrate it and to figure out how much tolerance you need.
yeah i will use a printing service
Ah, then I'd ask the service if they know their tolerances.
that is a good idea actually
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/383996129085227009/401813854054776852/unknown.png
Do you guys know if there are any problems with this? Its made in autodesk inventor so i dont think i can send a model.
this is supposed to be a ps eye camera mount
for two cameras
i don't really know what a 3d printer is capable of
yeah but its in autodesk inventor format and it does not seem to have an export option
i guess here it is
i do want to round the edges but i figured sandpaper is probably going to do a better job than a printer
i guess this is a better way to show it
i think a 3d printer should be capable of printing this. I also designed a ps eye camera mount for normal tripod. I will send a link for that in a second.
@dapper nest it says error 404
yeah. sorry about that. thingiverse had an error...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756264 this should work
A shoe for the ps eye camera.
!!IMPORTANT!!
I added a feature that the camera can only go in by one way. It should stop it from falling out.
Just heat the threaded rod a bit and then drill the thread into the hole on the bottom.
I suggest to print this upside down to have the minimal amount of overhang.
And add some tape or something on the bottom inside the shoe to tighten the camera.
Enjoy!
@dapper sandal
cool you had almost the same idea
i am impressed 3d printers can even print overhangs
i was thinking that might be a problem
yeah 😄 but i use multiple tripods. I think the distance between the two eyes should be a bit longer for a better 3d tracking. Are you using the ps move service? @dapper sandal
i mean i guess not all can do
yeah i want to use this for psmove service
they wont be just two cameras though
they will be 6 all together
noo. mine cant really print overhangs. i use an anet a8. the cheapest i could find. tuned it a bit...
6 cameras?! wow thats pretty much!
oooh. ok. i understand. why arent you using a kinect? for full body tracking
kinect cannot do what i want
Ahh. ok
also when i had the choice i thought psmove might be more reliable
yeah. I also use ps move service but I only got one eye yet! So it doesnt really work that good. I mean it does what it should, but its not perfect. Do you use the freepiebridge and riftcat for headtracking?
i have an oculus rift. is use that for head tracking
money isn't really that big of a factor. (which you might get from me having 5 cameras right now)
yeah 😄 Im just not really into vr... I just did this to get an idea of vr and to test games I'm working on
@dapper sandal Depending on the model (and model rotation), 3D printers can print overhangs pretty nicely.
the first layer can look bad though, but it didn't stop Vive LinkBox from instantly fitting into a snap-in holder
That model of yours, @dapper sandal, I would turn it upside down for printing, so the flat parts of camera mounts will be on the top (overhang) instead of the ones with... "holes"
@dapper sandal 3D printers can't really do overhangs like the one you have (at least without support material) but they can (when properly programmed) bridge gaps.
If you try to print an overhang like that the filament will stick to the nozzle when it makes the corner to print the 'u' slot and won't make the right shape. If you are lucky it will bunch up until there is enough plastic there to support it, if not then it could end up curling up and blocking the nozzle causing it to skip steps.
Flipping it over like @sterile mist suggested will avoid the overhang and the printer should be able to bridge the gap.
The distance seems small enough that it should work. Thanks for correcting my terminology, @novel yoke, couldn't find proper words
No problem. Also you might be surprised at how long of a gap a well calibrated, and programmed printer with adequate cooling can bridge. I've seen some videos of >100mm bridges. I've tried a few of the bridging tests on my printer and I don't remember if I made it up that far but I might have.
As long as it can print a straight line it can draw a thread pretty far. The trick is to adjust the extrusion and speed to make sure that the filament doesn't go slack but also doesn't get too thin and break. Using a a slicer with a bridge mode helps.
Yeah, the "adequate cooling" is one of the key factors here
Let us know how did the print go, @dapper sandal
if it's a single shoe then an option might be to orient the model so that when it prints, the gap is facing upwards, not sideways
changing it from an overhang to a simple vertical gap
Nice! The more see others prints the more I regret my dinky little $200 printer 😅
My print would rather set itself on fire rather even try to do hair
May I ask what print did that?
Did you print upside down? And how much support did you use? Because the hair looks fucking good!
FlashForge Duel Exturder, yes, upside down, and dissolvable supports, (best investment ever)
still working on making it stronger, many of the tips broke off
might try a simple spray sealant
Ouh. Thats a pretty good printer! Never heard of dissolvable support. How do they dissolve?
they are a water-soluble material like some kind of dry glue I believe
One head prints plastic the other that material and you just soak it all when done
How much is that stuff a roll anyway
in terms of exotic filament I know I can get some biodegradable algae filiment for about $10 for every 100 grams at a store downtown
I'd try it but my printer doesn't have a heated bed and it comes in the larger diameter filiment
we aren't that far away from printing your own food it seems
yeah but i dont want to eat a meal printed out of two different algae filaments
also 10$ per gram is pretty expensive to print a full meal
you can get a printer for like 200 or so, you would just have to build it, its mostly the filiment that would cost over time
Anybody have suggestions for a good free/free-to-keep cad software?
Or is freecad and such the best you'll get for free
i think freecad is pretty cool to make a rough shape and then blender to edit it further
i guess if you get more into blender you can just do everything in blender
Really? I thought they only gave out free trials @clem
Yeah that's definitely a good way to go about it moto
Thanks for the suggestions
@copper crow pretty sure it says it on the site 🙂
I see, I must've missed that then..
For easier shapes I use tinkercad and photoshop. But this is only for basic stuff.
I started with sketchup. I know it gets no luv in convos like this but I still use it for quick basic mechanical parts I need. They also gave me a free pro version for a couple yrs after a convo at a maker faire, so I owe them a mention at least.
That's awsome
Sketchup just seems so limited in everything but very simple shapes
It really doesn't offer what most other 3D programs do
Yep.
Was able to make my avatar in sketchup but only cause I was going for a low poly crystal look anyway
It is limited and isn't a great prep for how all the other 3d programs work, plus the tris of an exported object are a rat's nest by comparison. Something that you usually doesn't come up for 3d printing but important for vr content. With that said, this old school low poly avatar is a sketchup creation:
https://imgur.com/MJ9EbgY
https://imgur.com/3R5YlLB
speaking of cad software anyone find one more artist related ... like solid edges free sketch mode where u can kinda "sketch out your model then refine it in zbrush or something
my favorite 3d modelling software is 123d design
they discontinued it but if you use the wayback machine you can still get download links for it and the downloads are still active. It has the best/most intuitive interface I've ever used in a 3d program, and its precise too.
🙂 new print of mine is suppost to take 377 hours to complete...
welp
time to wait
working with a PLA body with a PVA support structure
had to reconfig my printer software because PVA was not one of the pre-loaded filament settings
What the fuck are you trying to print? A whole house?! xD
Which oddly enough printing a house is possible now just obviously not with that kind of printer
There was a guy in Minnesota(I think) who made a large printer that printed in concrete, iirc he made a castle for his kid
that’s cool I need to get more stuff 3d printed
@dapper nest I’m printing an AMX-13 with HOT ATGM system, 0.03mm layer thickness @ 40mm/sec
And set to wait 20 sec for cooling between layers
@maiden phoenix ok. Nice. Feel free to send pictures when its finished :D
It'd be great if you could 3d print yourself
You can, there are services that will offer a full color 3d body scan and they print it
^^^^^^
Can I 3D print a version of myself that works?
Because that's where the real money's at.
your pfp matches that sentence so much
No way, id rather 3d print a car first so i can say ive downloaded a car, too
anyone know if the brand of filiment matters at all?
I've only ever used 1 brand, I'd image some are definitely better than others
I've had no problem with Inland brand from microcenter
thats what i use now, im just wondering if there is like a big difference between brands, or if theres an industry standard at all
Pretty sure there's no standard per say, but if they want people to but thiers they made it half decent
You'll find more practical differences in the color when it comes to affecting settings. Always beware cheap black filament because they'll "sweep the floor" and toss it in. Someone found a tiny ball bearing in some cheap black filament when they investigated a clog. Conversely, clear is usually clean and softer which calls for diff settings.
A ball bearing?! How cheap was the roll jeez 😅
so i have a duel extrureder, any good way to slice something to have two colors?
yo any tips to print without heated bed
Calibrate the bed after every print. It wont stick that much on an cold bed. You could preheat the bed with a hairdryer. And disable the cooling for the first few layers. I also recommend to lower the speed for the first layers. And use bluetape. You want the print to stick as much as possible on the bed.
And a raft is recommended! @void sundial
use a heat detecting laser pointer to check on the temperature of your bed,, hi
Got my printer today
It came without the EU plug that was promised
So I gotta get one
Also our only grounded outlets are in the bathroom and kitchen
So it has to go in the kitchen
(Monoprice Maker Select V2 Plus, for those wondering)
Wow nice! But Im wondering why most of your outlets arent grounded. They should be according to the VDE-standard... Kitchen isnt really the best place for it. Printing filament produces fine particles wich are unhealthy.
@hot tundra
Well am I supposed to put it in the bathroom so it gets wet then? :P
An even worse idea
Thats true. I mean, Ive never heard of someone that died because he printed too much xD
But there are quet some warnings
*quiet
Besides, micro plastic particles (unless the plastic is toxic obviously) haven't been observed to cause harm to humans, and you'd probably get more drinking from a plastic bottle.
Alright. Still wondering about your outlets.. 😄
I guess it's only regulated for bathrooms and kitchens since those places require heavy washing machines
Our house is super damn cheap, so the only grounded outlets are where they absolutely have to be.
Oh. ok. Can I ask from where you are?
Finland
Oh. Wow. Didnt expect that 😄
I mean with a 1% error margin in world population, finland wouldn't necessarily exist :P
hehe xD
Oh also on the earlier topic, the betweens of print layers collect germs and that why prints printed in PLA are not considered food safe for long time use, but PLA itself is completely non-toxic.
Unlike ABS, which is toxic.
PETG is one of the better 3D printable materials for food safety (well, also one of the better materials in general)
You still need to coat it in food safe resin to fill in the layer lines.
👆
or you can blast it with a heat gun briefly
just enough to slightly reflow the surface
Anyone have experience with painting PLA prints
Specifically with acrylic paint
Does it need primer for the paint to stick
Doesn't need a primer for acrylicto stick but you'll be putting multiple coats on, so, kinda of a primer anyway.
Cool
How did I miss this channel
3d printed the head of the geico avatar id been working on https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/370720023083483136/441286613935325206/image.jpg
🤔 yes, but did you save 15% or more by switching the settings on your infill?
lol
Btw @pallid rapids what kind of filament is that, or is it painted.
I was going to say "maybe a gecko is a funky mouse" but then I started thinking too hard about evolutionary ancestry...
Ayy I'm a GEICO employee and this is neat
@pallid rapids it's accurate as hell too
@prime hinge sorry I replied so late. It’s a really nice looking silver pla that prints well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?C=2KVQPKQSS2V7N&M=urn:rtn:msg:201805081543439345b684b2c7494c831108f7d5a0p0na&R=YFHZT3T3CHA1&T=C&U=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FStronghero3d-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-Metal%2Fdp%2FB01CKV1Q18%2Fref%3Dcm_sw_em_r_dp_dz_U_VvC8AbB43GB9C_tt&H=CMPZRMRYAQZ1SZMIHQ5VHK5QWT8A
Nice, I have inland silver pla and it's just a sad flat grey
That is a good silver! What printer?
I have a now-old printrbot Metal simple that couldn’t make such a smooth print.
Just a $200 wanhou i3 mini clone
@balmy plaza What is it ?
@balmy plaza Second time that you use pings for non urgent matters, please email moderation@vrchat.com, there won't be a third warning.
@balmy plaza This is the wrong channel. The ban was legitimate. Please contact moderation@vrchat.com. All moderation issues must be handled via email and any requests via Discord will not be responded to.
wow
Someone here has seen code lyoko
what's this channel for? Avatars made from STLs etc?
if that's the case I will share mine
lmk
@half harbor This channel is mainly for 3D printing related talk
ah so 3d printing in general?
Yeah! 😄
🤔 i need to dust my lil wanhou i3 mini clone off and make some things...
@half harbor if you have a VRChat avatar that you've 3D printed, then yes please share. Would love to see it.
no I meant an avatar ingame made from an already 3d printable model (because it was the only model I could find of it anywhere)
@half harbor yeah , that too. Lot's of usable stuff on thingiverse after banginging it into t-pose and reducing the poly count. Gizmo duck I came across and wanted to wear it (2016): https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/be/f0/cd/23/08/52f4ff1ed53d481c00efb5a76137960d_preview_featured.jpg
Sorry for not uploading the avatar pics yet. Work been busy
Here is the album of the 2 I had made so far
I stopped working on those in favor of non-3d-printer-file models
anyway, they're from an 80's? cartoon/anime (not sure which it's classified as) called Robotech
as for functionality, the black one (called the 'Shadow Dancer' iirc) has arm blades (simple ani override) and the teal one (the 'Battler', supposed to be more a light blue, but like I said I haven't been working on these) doesn't have anything in the way of animations.
I spent 2 hours resurrecting my 3D printer in order to make this! Turned out great! 😄 https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/402554058432577551/455523946125721601/image.jpg
Made some more smaller ones because I can, I can't decide or find models of anything I want to print next
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/402554058432577551/455691605156823051/image.jpg
Yeah, those look great! Nice job!
Thanks!
they do
sorry I would have said something had the images loaded last time i looked (was at work, slow internet)
looking great!
would totally buy a keychain
i would want one of them!
Same!
Make more and sell them at like $5 to $6
Or more if price is too low to accommodate plastic costs
@coarse lantern Shipping out weighs the cost of plastic
true. forgot about shipping
glue a pin on the back and I would totally put that on a bag
I designed this chess board to be low poly for VRChat and to be 3D printed without support. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942501
Noice!
My avatar printing attempt 3
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/361218492206153728/466954748587671562/20180618_195302.jpg
Is that a bowden setup? retraction is a mess ^
Gonna get a 3d printer jut to make that vrc logo as a Keychain lul
If you ever do, I can send you the file @abstract badger 😄
I can recommend you the Anet A8 if you want to get a cheap 3D printer @abstract badger but before you print anything fancy I'd recommend you print a few support pieces and a new extruder cooler
the printer should go for around 130 to 150USD I think
ooh and flash a custom firmware called skynet3d it makes the printer a lot better
@normal sphinx did you paint those keychain thingies or do you have a dual extruder?
I painted them, though I imagine a dual extruder would print these with ease!
hm...
maybe I should revive my printer as well xDD
or should I make the bowden extruder mod first? 🤔
What's that?
Bowden?
Basically, you don't have the extruder motor on the axe itself but on the frame of the printer
At least the motor that pushes the filament
Then you have your hotend on the axe
Doing that reduces the weight of the axe and increases your printing speed and maybe even improves the quality of the print
Because there is less moving weight that needs to be stopped or moved
Basically
Ahhh ok
The trade-off is that your printer has less control over extrusion because there's some elasticity in the filament.
The filament compresses a little bit when the extruder first starts to push on it and expands a little when it tries to retract it.
So you need longer retractions depending on how long your filament path is.
There are some interesting alternatives that try to avoid this trade-off like remote direct extruders that use a flexible shaft in a tube.
Like the Zesty Nimble: https://zesty.tech/collections/the-nimble or Flex3Drive: https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/
Yes and and depending on length and shape of the tube, can add a lot if inertia to filament movement thus some leaking even after retracting and producing nasty stringing
yep
and elastic filament is going to be a pain as well
I mean actual rubber like filament
I can barely print TPU on my bowden printer if I run it really slow without retraction.
yeah kinda sucks
but I'd say it's a good trade off for faster printing if you don't plan on printing flexible stuff
@balmy plaza I can do PLA at 100mm/s peak (200mm/s peak travel) on my D-Bot CoreXY printer
E3D V6 Volcano hotend with a 0.4mm nozzle
and an E3D Titan extruder
My limiting factor is the heater cartridge now
on another page, do you know octoprint?
ah so you glass as a base for printing
I use BuildTak
sometimes it's a bit too sticky
at least on big flat prints
what does your filament feed look like? or more like the roll of filament
I've got mine above the printer on ball bearings
rolls very smooth
I really like:
low profile of a spool roller vs tall holder
ability to quickly switch out spools no center rods no nuts to unscrew
I couldn't find a roller for my Anet A8 like the one for the Prusa I3 Mk2 by MartinMajewski http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
So I modi...
that's the one I use
at some point I want to make a containment for the filament so the PLA doesn't absord water from the atmosphere
@balmy plaza It's actually a PEI sheet laminated with a 3M adhesive sheet to the glass.
Water absorption hasn't really been an issue for me with most filaments
well my PLA was sitting on top of my printer for the last 6 months or so
without a bag around it
I heard that it CAN be a problem
Some of mine has been in the basement for years and it still prints fine
PLA as well?
Yeah
hm.. well then
The filament itself is a little more brittle but it prints fine
It supposedly prints better if it's dry
might depend on the quality of the filament
It's hard to keep filament dry long term
since I'm a cheap bastard I buy the cheapest I can find
I built this drying box: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html
60W bulb in a bucket with some holes.
I have most of a spool of Taulman Bridge Nylon I can't print because it has absorbed so much water
It prints opaque instead of translucent and billows steam
did trying it work or is it basically useless now?
@balmy plaza I haven't tried it yet
I know I can dry it
The manufacturer suggests drying it in the oven or in a box like that.
Got my printer back up and running again http://afromana.com/lizardprint.mp4
Went fairly well I think
That's awesome!
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/474810054936231936/478486691863068672/unknown.png Streaming vrchat while monitoring a print on my printer. Yay multitasking
@modern shell you might want to reduce your printing speed a bit. At least that how I got mostly rid of the stuff happening at the hand of your model. Also some retraction if you don't already use it
nvm, slower printing is bullshit, I changed my cooling thingy
I am so glad this channel exists. Anyone with a Formlabs 2?
So am I! And nah, I have a massive XYZ Printing DaVinci printer, it does the job but isn't amazing
I never knew this was in here, wowzer, well, I now have two 3d printers, a flashforge finder and a creality cr10s
@modern shell you have a finder too ?
Yeah, haven't been using it actively as of late, but I did do quite a bit of printing after that previous timelapse, suppose I should start that thing up again some time soon.
@modern shell i love my Finder, but, I’ve recently also got a cr10s, which is incredible too.
I was thinking about getting a cr10. I have a crappy cheapo printer atm.
I have a Tevo Tornado that works pretty well.
@tepid willow I was torn between the Tevo Tornado, but, not heard good things about it, the cr10s is a a fantastic machine, once you get the settings dialed in and a good level bed
I have an a8 and an Ender 3. Ender 3 is a really good machine if you don’t wanna fork out the money for the big boy cr10
👌
anyone know a good place to get a new anet a8 hotend?
Amazon or Ali express. I got a bunch for like $10 a piece @sturdy lava
Pumpking spider for my moms bday, 2x scale and 140hours of printing
Wow! That's pretty cool!
@weary mesa how does that look to you in the headset? the view of the 3D printer
@oblique pendant is it as heavy as a full pumpkin or is it lighter*?*
In total the print i would estimate weights in around 2lb and when folded up is about 6.5 inch in diameter
Its small
So it easy to carry around, its practical if it's just to show it around, but it would have been interesting if it had the weight of a pumpkin, had a colored tail, and was used to trick people. But that would probably lead to said tricked person to unknowingly make it dysfunctional through causing harm to it...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269321
I was a bit bored this weekend, so I made some vrc cookies 🍪
Ooooh! Noice!
Y’all know a good beginner’s 3d printer?
I had the monoprice select mini2 and it was a good intruductory printer as the quality is acceptable and its not horribly expensive. Through the small bedsize is a big drawback and the machine "forgot" where its limits were and ruined the belt driving the bed. And if you can get the heated bed varient. Get it. Iys well worth it.
I have the prusa i3 mk2 and mk3, both good machines, but on the expensive side at about $800.
They've done a lot of work to get out a lot of failure points and it's got a self leveling, heated, removable bed.
@molten blaze sorry this is late responding to your question from 11/14/18 asking about my post on 08/13/18. " how does that look to you in the headset? the view of the 3D printer" I was using restream for my twitch chat and had the transparency setting low with the camera behind it. Not sure if this answered your question. Sorry again this is late. I am in toooo many discords to keep up.
@pallid edge i am so willing to just give u my money to have my oc model 3d printed
Some thing in the process of prinited, I wonder what will come out in the end
@daring quail Is possible, but after I need send this model to you?
Ye which would take a while
Plus it's not gonna come out colored as far as i'm aware
Or is there a 3d printer that makes stuff alrrady colored? @pallid edge
they exist but usually it's only 2 colours and you still have to paint it after lol
https://i.imgur.com/LYFnqLz.jpg
Managed to get these printed after a couple failed tests, definitely have a lot of work to do on actual quality but its getting there lol
@daring quail Or is there a 3d printer that makes stuff alrrady colored?
It depends on the color of the placeholder, usually I take yellow or pink, but you can repaint easily
I thinking it's easier for you to find another 3d printer in your city, I probably live too very far away
True true, around how much would it cost to 3D print something?
To print something 5-10$, but shipping will be more expensive 
They do have inkjet alike 3d printers but they are highly expensive and require there own software and material to run...
https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color
And if you want to do the easier option, you can get one of the palette series printer addons, (palette, palette2, and palette2 pro)
https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2
The Mosaic Palette 2 is ALL NEW! Multi-material 3d printing on your 3D printer. Combine rigid, flexible, and soluble filaments all in a single 3D print. #3dp...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967301 this is perfect for me to print using my ender 3 pro
So your gonna print your printer...
can you make organs with that 3d printer
Yeah but they'll be hard plastic
Lol
*printer
And creality cr10s
Im planning on get a 3D printer IDK which brand though. nyaa-
@balmy plaza @oblique pendant Is Reprap Prusa I3 good DIY for beginners? nyaa-
The one I'm looking at prints 300, 300, 420MM btw. nyaa-
teh cr10 has a 300x300x400 and ive not had really any major issues
@oblique pendant How good is the quality? nyaa-
i think the best one to start with is a cr10s or tevo tornado
Nyaa-
The quality is good. I originally had a monoprice selectmini2 and tha thing to was decent but the cr10s i have now has not let me down. I did have tofix it recently because thhe front fan broke but other than that ive put 500+hour in printing on it. What really helps is plying around with the setting in cura and getting a food profile going that works perfectly. Thats the fun part to set up.
for scale, the base of the statue is about the diameter of a 10p
Fa-bu-lous ❤
that is quite literal
i need advices from someone with experiences with 3d printing, i don't own a 3d printer, i want to print a model but is high poly count, how should i optimize it for printing? please DM me ^_^
i need to go to a shop to print it and price is based on time but i want high quality
poly count doesn't matter for printing tbh
you slice 3d models into something 3d printers take with software such as cura
@balmy plaza
The main thing to do is prepare the model to have a solid flat base - remember that printers draw layer by layer and cant draw in air (need support structures which waste material)
price is based on time, how to optimize? i was thinking: less poly, less details, less time needed to print
Not really higher poly modele give you better prints all around but layer height, infill, walls and supports will all increase your time. If you go with a company they will do the slicing and time optimazation for you because they depend on geting the part right the first time 90%of the time, otherwise they take a loss and tie up that machine for another howeverlong it takes to print a second copy.
If you have a hobbyist print it the time will be longer, and you may get a better or worse print then going with a company as material diferances, machine quirks, slicer layout, and overall settings. Also it depends on the printing style whether you go with a sls or fdm printing and the quality of the hardware in the machine. There are a bunch of factors but normally polycount is lowest on the list of important details. I printed a 2mil poly, 7in tall wolverine just fine and ive printed another one that was only 4k poly, both turned out great because of printer settings
you cant really have too high poly models for 3d printing (although one time i made a model so high poly that the stl file was 1.3 gb). if you want the model to be smooth then go for higher poly models. if you dont have a high poly model see if using the subdivision surface modifier in blender helps smooth it out.
One of the reasons why Poly count matters so much more in the game then it does when printing is that in the game it's continually having to recalculate where all the pieces are and if any need to be resized or modified in someway and redraw all of them, all while doing this fast enough so that it looks like it's moving fluidly. but in a 3d print it only has to render it once and that's done on the computer as it's preparing to send the data to the printer. so as long as the slicer software can render it properly (And most can do least that) then the poly count is irrelevant.
Though doesn't having a high poly count slow down the printing process a bit? I seem to remember it being a thing.
No, only the time it takes to slice the model. Higher res prints do produce more commands but any decent printer will already be running under max speed and have command buffer enough to not wait for pc thats feeding them
After it's sliced polies mean nothing pretty much
Also i tend to notice some STLs i open in blender that came from cad end up being 100k-1m+ tris lol
yeah, those are always fun times to fix
I accidentally 3D printed my Bessie model WAY smaller than I intended but I still love her https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/485645125129732097/550727808746258442/image0.jpg
surface texture... the move movement the head has to make in the XY... the more time it takes to print a layer. So complex surface textures are made of lots of poly's. which means indirectly high poly count takes longer to print, maybe, depending on the tool path. It also takes longer to slice.
although it's not 1 to 1... a high poly count object could slice in a way that produces a smooth tool path e.g. a high poly spheriod
pretty good
Maybe SLA?
Yeah SLA seems the best for figure printing. As far as I've heard they're super messy/smelly though
Nah, depends on the resin used
Might look into getting one of those budget ones then
for FDM(extruder type) printers that don't have software to add tree structure supports you can use Meshmixer to add supports.
Yeah used cura trees for mine. Worked great, but still added a lot of time to the build haha
time or quality... you can have one... but only one...
Yo yo yo
HP MJF printer is the best printer for figures
It's only a quater mill but it'll print the best gosh darn thicc men and women this side of alberquack
If you have the money yeah, or a maker space but some just have cheep printers. If you're looking for a low cost printer the tevo tarantula is ok but you do get alot of ghosting so you havr to print slow,I was able to minimize a lot of it but I would go with a cr10s or a delta printer just because if the fine detail.
Well hey, if we all pitch in $10, we only need 25,000 people to donate to get the printer :^)
