Sovol SV07+ The grinder

[topaz kiln]

Alright, I'm officially stupid and insane. Attached is a picture of this stupid print. I have video but iphone file size moment, I'll need to edit them down.

Is it over extruding? Under extruding? Too low temp? Too high temp? Bad z offset? Leveling issue? Slicer issue? Am I using the wrong layer height? Literally all of the above?

I swear I leveled this thing like three times.
Belts adjusted.
Brand new nozzle.
Brand new PLA.
Cleaned bed with IPA, Dawn, more IPA, more Dawn, and more IPA, in that order.
Completely redid the calibration as if it was new, did screws from scratch, z calibrated, z tilted, bed leveled, and redid mesh. I must have done something wrong because this does not look level even though the software says it is.

200/55 temp
0.6 nozzle size
0.45 layer height (0.2 initial)
0.65 line width
95% flow
0.5 retraction distance
40mm/s retraction speed
100% fan speed
30mm/s initial layer speed

Forgot z-hop but I get the feeling z-hop would be a bandaid for an underlying problem here.

Video had to be cut but the full sentence was "what APPEARS to be crazy amounts of under extrusion over here and wild amounts of over extrusion over there, i might be exaggerating"

[karmic moss]

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[quartz owl]

Oh check your x axis (left right) is straight.
This can be vwheels, or just misalignement if you have two motors for z.

If the sv07 has bed springs though... Bed could also be a little sideways... 😅

?axis

[karmic moss]

https://reprap.org/forum/thumbcache/434/896/ad3/5aa/2b5/366/d50/e0a/8a6/5f6/8a_800x400.png

[karmic moss]

?soupcan requested by: m.von.d

V Rollers
Vslot rollers are on most of the popular budget printers such as the ender 3 and other v-slot based printers. Your printer should have come with a wrench that is able to adjust the eccentric nut that increases the tension of the wheels. Usually on a plate with 3 wheels, only one can be tensioned, and on a plate with 4 wheels (usually the Y carriage) there are two wheels that can be tensioned, you can see which ones need to be tensioned by looking for eccentric nuts (Labeled in drawing below).

Vslot rollers should be tensioned and checked as a part of your frame check before you fire up your 3d printer. They should be tightened until you are able to turn the wheels with your fingers with a little friction, but not too tight that they are too hard to turn at all (failure to do so will result in quicker wear and tear of your Vslot wheels, certain printing artifacts and excess strain on the stepper motors ).

Make sure to check that all your Vslot plates and carriages are free from wobble along the X, Y and Z axis wherever your printer uses Vslot rollers. You should check these regularly to clean them of dust and to see if the rubber is worn, if so, they should be replaced with new ones.

Example of how to tension wheels

?vrollers requested by: m.von.d

[inner lance]

One side of your gantry is sagging down

[karmic moss]

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[topaz kiln]

The z-tilt is theoretically supposed to straighten the x, but I'll double check!

[topaz kiln]

Ooooh thank you will also try this. Will give update once I do

[topaz kiln]

Update discovered how to lower resolution on my phone camera so i can record a slightly longer video, adjusted the rollers and re-leveled/z calibrated/washed

Gonna also slice a proper first layer test real quick

[topaz kiln]

"unfortunate" doesnt even begin to describe this first layer, i had to step away and paid for it

[topaz kiln]

Take 2

releveled Again™

and did the z tilt

[topaz kiln]

im starting to feel like if at first I don't succeed ignore the software and just reprint the first layer test print and adjust until it works

this HAS to be a bed leveling issue right

[topaz kiln]

Is there a good manual way to do this, is that soda can method real or does that risk damaging my printer lol

I feel like its skewed left/right enough for it to still be this even after the z tilt calibration

[karmic moss]

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[quartz owl]

Yes soda cans or cd cases sitting on the frame if your bed has springs or knobs.

[karmic moss]

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[topaz kiln]

Update. It's printing way better but I am getting these little tails at the start and end of lines sometimes that is more obvious on my camera side view

I feel like im way closer to a good first layer though

[topaz kiln]

I'm starting to get to the end of this infinite loop lol

hopefully..

[quartz owl]

Yeah either dry the filament or check first layer speed + bed temp.
20 - 30mm\s is very reliable, 50mm\s is quickish, but mostly sticks.
Bed temp should be 60 degrees generally. Can sometimes get away with 55...(But try that after finished troubleshooting.)

If none of that works, try tuning retraction.

Drying you can do on your bed or ideally filament dryer if you have one (even food dehydrated)

[topaz kiln]

First layer is 30mm/s, been using 55 bed temp but I'll go back up to 60. I opened the filament fresh out the box two days ago, but maybe the humidity has been high. Funny enough I was literally just about to buy a dryer, though I didn't know you could dry it on the bed, how does that work? Just so I can try it while I wait for the dryer to ship

[topaz kiln]

Also my retraction settings

[quartz owl]

?beddrying

[karmic moss]

Bed Drying

New filament is wet and you should always be working with dry filament. Instead of buying a separate dryer, just use your print bed. Bed drying is also quite effective for materials like TPU, ABS, PC, and Nylon since it can reach temps that most consumer dryers can’t. For more info, see the ?wetfilament command and watch this video. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/667463307963138058/1447891119261221047/IMG_1185.mov?ex=6939452f&is=6937f3af&hm=5fc10c4c072d548d57e8afcd509285a7cdbdd507c56e92461896e6cd9d8e0aa9& https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/667463307963138058/1447891124940308551/Screenshot_2024-09-16_at_4.08.38_PM.png?ex=69394530&is=6937f3b0&hm=cad96b7020d51e6bf4bf2178d83552e5d5511ae8a4065a1c641ca495030c083a&

[quartz owl]

Some people have complained about it ∆ messing with their levelling if you have bed springs, but i'm not sure how valid it is 😅

[karmic moss]

** Wet Filament**
Filaments can be “wet” from time to time and this includes some of the most popular filaments such as PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA and TPU. Because of the hygroscopic nature of these polymers, they absorb water from the air and become “wet”. This can manifest in your prints as blobs and signs of underextrusion, because small bubbles of water vapor get trapped in the plastic as you extrude.

Another common problem due to filament being wet is stringing and, when extremely wet, structurally compromised prints. PETG, Nylon and TPU are examples of extremely hygroscopic filaments (they absorb moisture really quickly), whereas the most common filaments like PLA and ABS are only mildly hygroscopic.

❗Keep in mind, even if your filament is fresh out of the packaging, manufacturers often use water baths to cool filament in the extrusion process so it might be wet from factory. ❗

?wetfilament requested by: wolfesbluebox

[quartz owl]

Yeah...just run a retraction test.
To far can drop blob and still string as well 😉

[topaz kiln]

Great info to know thank you, especially the part about new filament being very possibly wet

[topaz kiln]

The two pillars model?

Sorry I am a baby noob idiot dumb dumb LOL

[quartz owl]

Yeh...but through orca under the calibration menu at the top...and it'll auto gen ones with different lengths.

Or you can use this one.

[karmic moss]

Teaching Tech Calibration Guide
Teaching Tech

?teachingtech requested by: wolfesbluebox

[quartz owl]

We all gotta start somewhere 🙂

[topaz kiln]

Orca?

[quartz owl]

Oh ok. What slicer r u atm?

[topaz kiln]

Um. Cura 5.13 lol, is that bad nowadays

I hear a lot of good things about orcaslicer

[quartz owl]

Oh ok. Then use teaching tech for retraction test gen.
Also get the pressure advance plugin from the market place...

Orca has more but...upgrade when you feel ready, cos the ui is quite different imo. Orca is good when you start doing medium to hard or larger print projects. You can get some features like orca through curas marketplace plugins though.

[topaz kiln]

Yeah I was planning on switching to Orca at some point I just mostly was looking to make the printer work at all so I knew if any issues were slicer issues or hardware issues

Minimize amount of variables changing at once type deal

[topaz kiln]

Alright I'll do that test in the morning since it looks a tiny bit involved and I want to make sure I read it thoroughly. Will give an update when I do, thank you so much for the continued help you are a legend!

[quartz owl]

Np, absolutely

[karmic moss]

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[topaz kiln]

Alright its been a minute, I got the dehydrator, and this is the result. Not perfect, but way better.

[topaz kiln]

Will do the retraction test shortly

Does suck bc this summer has been ridiculously muggy every day so I basically have to constantly swap the wet and dry filament

[karmic moss]

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[karmic moss]

?soupcan requested by: screamingtilk