Need help in call setting up a1 bambu lab

[late pasture]

Just got a printer from an old friend and I cant figure out why nothing is sticking to the bed ive tried everything google searches has told me

[tall marsh]

Tips for better first layer success

The first layer is quite literally the foundation of a successful print. These are some of the things to keep in mind:

• Wash your print surface with dish soap and water, refer to ?bedcleaning .
• Ensure your printing temperatures are appropriate. For PLA, the ideal bed temperature is 55°C-60°C. If the lines appear to come out "gummy" and forms clumps, raising the nozzle temperature may help. Calibrate your nozzle temperature by printing a temperature tower. Refer also to ?platemps .
• Relevel your bed and ensure your nozzle distance is equally spaced at each corner, refer to ?paperlevel . If your printer is equipped with a bed meshing probe such as a BLTouch or CRTouch, make sure your Z-offset positions the nozzle close enough to the bed, refer to ?z-offset for additional information. If your printer has automatic Z-offset calibration, make sure the nozzle is clean while the calibration runs.
• You can confirm that your leveling and Z-offset is correct by observing your first layer extrusion by printing a full layer test: Printables, Thingiverse Refer to ?leveling for help with the interpretation of the results.
• Ensure the nozzle is not colliding with the print. This usually presents itself as loud noises and layer shifting. Some causes may include overextrusion, insufficient cooling, mechanical Z axis issues, or insufficient Z hop
• For warp-prone materials such as ABS, Nylon, Polypropylene and others an enclosure is recommended, ensure ambient temperatures are high enough (40°C+) and stable. Consider using a specialized bed adhesive.

?firstlayer requested by: m.von.d

[lunar talon]

Clean the bed, probably

[late pasture]

I've done most of what that says due to it being all over Google

What's happening is when it transfers to a diffrent part of the print it messes up it does fine when I set it on few loops once it goes it goes then jumps to the print it messes up again

[cold blaze]

Have you tried adhesion glue?

[late pasture]

I have not

I was gona give that a try this week when I get paid but wanted to see if i can figure this out cuz I printed a little tiny boat once already and that came out perfectly tried printing something else and bam it's gone

[cold blaze]

I'm not sure too much about the A1 but try glue.
Make sure to clean it with isopropyl alcohol every few prints if you are gonna use adhesives

[tall marsh]

Cleaning Your 3D Printer Bed

While IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) may dissolve the oily compounds built up on your bed, it mostly just spreads those oils around. For a more permanent solution use a degreasing agent such as dish soap and water (unscented, as those sometimes have chemicals that make the bed adhesion worse) under warm water, scrub the entire plate taking care to push the soap into all the cracks (if your bed is textured). Dry with a lint free cloth or leave to air dry. You can then put the build surface back on to your printer. If you like you can use the isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed intermittently between prints, but please note it still wont remove any of the oily compounds.

If you are still experiencing adhesion issues it may be z offset, speeds or temperatures. You may also find more success in using adhesion boosters such as hairspray, glue-stick, or specially formulated adhesives for 3d printing. Happy printing!

?bedcleaning requested by: m.von.d

[late pasture]

What kinda glue would I use like a standard kids glue stick lol or what

[lunar talon]

What are your settings? Could also have been a badly oriented part 🤷

[late pasture]

Where would I check that

[lunar talon]

Yeah gluestick works, just needs a very thin layer

[lunar talon]

In the slicer

[cold blaze]

i personally use a stick designed for 3d prints, but im guessing kids glue would be similar right?

[late pasture]

It's a basic flat print

[lunar talon]

Its likely just rebranded

[cold blaze]

can you show it to us?

in the slicer i mean

[late pasture]

I set the base speed slower to 20mm/s to see if that helps

But it didnt

[lunar talon]

Mh big flat print, sharp corners. Very prone to warping

[late pasture]

Well i havent made it that far yet cant even get 2 s3conds into the print

[lunar talon]

Check the color scheme to line type in the info box

[late pasture]

This?

[lunar talon]

Yes, so you can check what is what and check for potential problems better (weird overhangs, bridges etc)

For example

[cold blaze]

could his z offset be off, if hes having problems with getting any filament down?

[lunar talon]

auto z on the A1

[cold blaze]

ah mb

[late pasture]

Could it be the filament ?

[lunar talon]

Would need to to start gcode shenanigans to lower it iirc

[cold blaze]

have you dried it?

[late pasture]

I dried it in this dryer thing for like 3 hours

[lunar talon]

Again, what settings? Material, hotend temp, bed temp?

[late pasture]

Petg hf 230 nozzle 75 bed

[cold blaze]

ah its petg

[lunar talon]

80ºC bed for petg for me🤷

[cold blaze]

i print petg hotter than that too, like...250

[late pasture]

Ah ok I did that and it was stiff to get off thr bed but it still messed up

Should I print it hotter?

[lunar talon]

Got a picture?

[late pasture]

I dont but I can have it start again and give a video

[cold blaze]

petg oft has OVER adhesion from my experience, so i use glue so i dont tear a chunk from my build plate, but yeah a picture/video would help us

[late pasture]

Gimme a second ill get a video

Let it get threw auto bed leveling and stuff

Should I change the heat setting or leave where I had it?

[cold blaze]

you can change them if you want

raise the temps by like 10 c if you do, at least thats my reccomendation

except for bed...id raise that by 5

[late pasture]

Ok

I just washed the bed like 4 tries ago but I wiped it with alcohol

So its clean

[cold blaze]

Petg can be temperamental, surprised you didn't start with pla

[late pasture]

Thats all he had im buying some pla this week

But I dont get paid till wednesday

[cold blaze]

Pla is much more forgiving,

Not to say you can't print with petg

[amber burrow]

Errr might depend on what printer you have.
The main diff i had with petg vs pla is temp, keeping it dry and first layer speed, but i don't want add suggestions here yet.
Too much info = confusion 👌

[cold blaze]

It's an a1

[late pasture]

The video i made is to big I dont have nitro

But for thebgist

Gist

This happened and now nothing is sticking

I switched back to printing boat

[amber burrow]

Is that black silicon rubber sock on all the way?
(It looks like z offset, but lets get other opinions)

[late pasture]

Yes it's on all the way i even took it off earlier to see cuz I dont think it does anything lol

[amber burrow]

😅 it's helpful to keep the nozzle temp stable and help prevent less frequent clogs 👌
But occasionally if it gets loose, drags on the print.

[late pasture]

Yea i only took it off to see if it was clogging it on its way out

I ordered 4 nozzles and new sock that will get here tomorrow

Rip boat

[cold blaze]

Could be z offset..but it's an a1 Bambu has auto z

I'm really thinking it could be you need glue

[cold blaze]

MVD, what you think?

[amber burrow]

Dont let me get too confusing but what i'd want to do is:

• dry it a little longer (maybe 2 - 3 more hours)
• i've usaully found glue for removing the print. But it's a controversial topic, and it can sometimes help. It's the gluestick kind you'd usually use for sticking bits of paper together (e.g. elmers purple stick glue)
• try a slower first layer at 20 - 30mm\s. This is in speed settings in bambu slicer.
• if you're up for it, try messing with z offset. You can try by cleaning the nozzle first (if you have like brass \ gold coloured brush, heat it up and give it a wipe) and then re-run auto levelling... If not, we might want someone to go through it with you. It's a little daunting

[cold blaze]

Yeah, drying for a few more hours could work.
.3 hours isn't long and we don't know how old the petg is

[amber burrow]

(also some dryer don't hold the temp advertised 😅)
Dont forget to take your breaks, and good work so far 🙂

[late pasture]

Yea so how long do you think just dryer it over night

I have some test pla I can try to tinker with tonight

[cold blaze]

Yeah try that

[amber burrow]

I typically do 6, but my dryer holds at 50 ish, and i live in about 60% humidity. (Petg)

[late pasture]

Gotcha let me grab it and put it on a spare reel

Also have tpu but idk if that's good or not

I have a creality 1 spool dryer

[amber burrow]

Lets uh, leave that for later.
Tpu is fun, but a humidity spounge. Definitely try after you get the hang of printing.

[cold blaze]

Tpu is more advanced

[late pasture]

OK so I stuck some pla matte green on here

Would that be pla basic?

[amber burrow]

Yep! That'll do for just testing it

[late pasture]

@amber burrow is there a certain tempature for bed and nozzle like on petg

[amber burrow]

Yeah, lower typically.
Bambu defaults to 55 for the bed, which can work, but i usually use 60 on my sv06.
Nozzle is anywhere from 190 - 240.
A lower temp can affect how fast you can print without it looking holey \ underextrusion.
A higher temp can make it curl upwards on thin and pointy areas (cooling issues)

Tldr: 60 bed, approx 215 nozzle.

[late pasture]

Gotcha

It did something just ripped up on first layer

Seemed to fix it's self it's printing

[cold blaze]

Hm

[amber burrow]

Z offset is across all filaments.
So you can either:

• fiddle with the start gcode, under machine settings in the slicer.
  Or
• adjust first layer thickness (i think it's under quality in the slicer?) to compensate for the gap between the nozzle and bed being a little too large.

I'm not sure if it also needs to be printed slower, because more filament will cool slower.

i might have the setting names a little wrong

[lunar talon]

Wash that plate, tighten the heater screws behind the nozzle

Redo auto z offset, see if it is closer to the bed

[tall marsh]

?zoffset2 requested by: m.von.d

[late pasture]

@amber burrow

[amber burrow]

Again.. the bottom says "z offset fine" 🤔
But ripping is not normal behaviour...so lets try these:

• Mvd said to check your screws. This does require a little bit of disassembly, but there is a decent guide from bambu on how to do that. (I'll find the link and edit the message)
• There are 7 screws that can loosen overtime. This can affect how auto z behaves. Z offset is usually the first check to fix whenever stuff goes wrong.

Screws:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/a1-mini-a1-users-solved-screw-fell-out-of-toolhead/97626
Disassembly:

• https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend-heating-assembly-replacement
  Ofc let it cool first

• Z offset would have changed when you moved the printer, but i'm also wondering if maybe the side to side bar (x axis gantry) is wonky....? (Thats shouldnt affect such a small print though.
  We can check by printing one of these.
  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071

(benchy looks pretty clean, with some very tiny stuff we can maybe fix later if needed)

[cold blaze]

One or 2 issues with adhesion I see, but that can be tweaked

[amber burrow]

Ah i'm seeing some very very minor stuff for like cooling in the overhangs. 😅
Not something to worry about atm.

Note: if needed, you can bookmark the post with a bookmark emoji to reference later, they close temporarily after an hour. send a message to reopen later when you need it. 👌

[late pasture]

gotcha checking screws now

[late pasture]

the screws WERE LOOSEE

tiny bit but they were

[amber burrow]

Yay we got em!
Thanks mvd for bringing it up!

Now we can try the auto z offset again 🤞

[late pasture]

just di that and it still messed up

i tried doing a little print like the excavator and everytime it moved to a diffrent pieace it would mess it upl;

@amber burrow

[amber burrow]

Hmm ok,
What temps, layer speed...?
Moves around connected to the nozzle? Is it curling upwards on the egdes?
Any photo of it in the slicer?

[late pasture]

heat was at 215 bed 60 na dbasically when it switched from outter layer it would grab it and take it with it

if you know what i mean everytime it switched it would take that pieace witrh it lifting it then cuasing a chain reaction to other pieaces

[amber burrow]

Oo thats a small print, so very little surface area to stick to.

I think i know what you mean..but sometimes it can be caused by a few different things.

[late pasture]

im printing small things due to lack of filament

[cold blaze]

brim

[amber burrow]

There don't seem to be too many overhangs, but printing in thin air can occasionally be problematic
Generally overhangs up to 70 degrees are ok on modern printers without supports. (This will already have a default on your printer)

You can slice as much as you like before pressing print.

For this print i would look into:

• adding a brim (in the slicer) due to it's small size. (Check in the others tab). Clearance \ gap at 0.
• maybe adding auto supports, if after it sticks it fails to do the bucket top wells
• check first layer speed in the speed tab.

[cold blaze]

when using supports make sure to tick, on bed only

[amber burrow]

would say supports are optional, unless u notice issues.

[cold blaze]

i think that cab would need supports

[late pasture]

gotcha i did the speed thing idk what brim is ill check it out

[late pasture]

what kinda brim ? there is like 10

[amber burrow]

Oh yeah just auto or outer if auto doesn't do anything.
Also use this for any large square prints to help with "warping" where stuff bends up from the buildplate \ bed.

I forgot they have that now.

[late pasture]

gotcha

[tall marsh]

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[late pasture]

@amber burrow so I tried glue stick and i tried messing with heat setting i got a roll of basic pla and it's still doing the same thing

[amber burrow]

What numbers are you using for first layer speed, nozzle and bed temp etc. ?
What does the print look like in the slicer?

[late pasture]

215 for nozzle 65 for bed and 20mm/s edge and inner 80mms

and its the standard benchyy with 2 outter rings

i got it to print good if i moved the print to the corners of bed sheet i might need a new bed sheet

[amber burrow]

Yeah thats what i was going to suggest. 😅
Espiecally if it's was well loved and well used.
Probably stick to just 60 for the bed for pla unless the room is particularly cold (e.g. 10 degrees)
Try a biqu cryogrip glacier (blue) for the a1 or a pei plate.
I think the bed is 245mm?

[late pasture]

my bottom layer on flat prints seems to be tearing here and tehre

256

@amber burrow

This is the problem im running into now

[cold blaze]

Yeah might need a new sheet

[tall marsh]

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