Hi everyone,
I’m facing a massive issue with three different Ender 3 Pro machines and I’m at my wits' end. I’ve already replaced almost every component I could think of, but the problem persists across all of them.
The Symptom:
The prints start fine, but starting from the second or third layer, the extruder motor starts clicking (skipping steps) and filament stops extruding. When I pull the filament out, it is clearly "swollen" or "bulged" at the end that was inside the cold zone/heat break.
What I’ve already done/upgraded:
Upgraded to Bi-Metal Heat Breaks (on all machines).
Upgraded to Dual-Gear Extruders.
Replaced the Hotend Fans with new, functional 24V units (wired directly to the power supply).
Calibrated E-Steps: Currently set to values around 105 to 143 depending on the machine’s specific gear grab.
Tried different filament brands: (The issue happens with all of them, including high-quality PLA).
Current Settings:
Temp: I’ve tried ranging from 200°C to 230°C.
Retraction: I was using 5mm - 6mm (Standard Bowden settings), but I'm hearing this might be too high for Bi-Metal.
Combing: Not in skin / Within infill.
Even with the new fans and Bi-Metal throats, the filament seems to be softening too early and creating a plug in the "cold" side of the heat break. Since it’s happening on three separate machines, I suspect it’s a systemic calibration error or a physical assembly mistake I’m repeating.
Has anyone experienced this specific "swollen filament" issue with Bi-Metal upgrades on an Ender 3? Could it be a Z-binding issue masking as an extrusion problem, or is my retraction still too high for this setup?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#Major Heat Creep/Extruder Clicking issues on 3 Ender 3 Pros after Bi-Metal & Dual Gear upgrades
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It sounds like heatcreep...
I would try the temp at 190 and\or slow and adjust the volumetric speed to match.
And check you coldend cooling fan is running fast enough. (If that's also been changed)
Dont forget to hot tighten your nozzle (thats the same idea as "the gap", but for all metals)
But with all these changes, it might be worth fully re-tuning your printer.
Hottightening the Nozzle
Tighten your nozzle at the highest possible temperature to make sure it fully seals against the heatbreak.
If the nozzle bottoms out against the heatblock, the heatbreak is not installed correctly. Refer to the graphic. Note that the maximum printing temperature is about 20C lower.
If you have a PTFE lined hotend, make sure you have taken care of ?thegap
Ellis' Print tuning guide
Follow this guide for easy print tuning
Guide
Try running through this guide, including esteps.