#cant properly tune printer

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

naive charm
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i’m pretty new to printing, bought a printer on saturday, been troubleshooting every day since then, and i still cannot get good prints.

I’m using Orca Slicer, a modified version of the .16mm preset for .4 nozzles. i am getting some prints to complete but they re usually bad quality, so far there has been a cheekrest (too little infill, sounded crunchy inside) a thread adapter (threads worked more or less but weren’t the best, could be screwed on but also got stuck, didnt have much tension either, and snapped when putting too much force on it) and the orca slicer flow calibration. I did the flow calibration last night and it came out fine (though almost all of the numbers weren’t legible so i had to use layout to figure out what flow rate it was.) though this morning i’ve been having other problems with prints.

currently the big ones are: Randomly skipping spots/not printing mid build (maybe build ups of filament idk)

filament building up around nozzle (while printing, usually leaves the nozzle straight down when testing for blockages, plus i just cleaned it again and replaced the nozzle.)

stringing (not as much but still annoying)
and filament not sitting flat, especially on first layer, (there will be small lines of filament that stick up, maybe when moving the nozzle or something?

any help is appreciated, my goal is just to print parts for airsoft so things like threads need to be fairly accurate

Also, i cannot build things too tall it seems, built something like a cylinder with tapered ends, not even 25% through the build it looked like a slinky/spring/mess.

I’ll add more photos when i take them. my camera glass is broken, attached currently is a pic of the skipping printing

IMG_0224.jpg
timid elbowBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you are facing several common 3D printing issues. Here are some tips to help troubleshoot the problems you're experiencing:

  1. Randomly skipping spots/not printing mid-build: This could be caused by various issues such as clogged nozzle, improperly calibrated extruder steps/mm, or inconsistent filament diameter. Ensure your filament is feeding smoothly, check for any clogs in the nozzle, and recalibrate your extruder steps/mm if necessary.

  2. Filament building up around the nozzle: This could be due to over-extrusion or improper nozzle height. Make sure your first layer height and bed leveling are calibrated correctly. Adjust your extrusion multiplier in the slicer settings to reduce the amount of filament being extruded.

  3. Stringing: Stringing occurs when there is excess filament oozing during travel moves. Try reducing the printing temperature or enabling features like retraction in your slicer settings to minimize stringing.

  4. Filament not sitting flat on the...

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
naive charm
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Ender 3 pro, v1.0.1, idk what other info, here’s pics of some prints

#

there’s a lot of stringing inside the cheekrest, and it’s sides are not very easy to separate

burnt cave
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try printing slower, what are ur settings

steel pier
# naive charm there’s a lot of stringing inside the cheekrest, and it’s sides are not very eas...

ok based on your pictures, I'd suggest starting with:

  • drying your filament (help with flow issues and stringing) (can use the bed / dont need a dryer / new filament can come wet)

  • adjust your z offset so the nozzle is closer to the bed. (nozzle build up/ skipping lines) (and/or compare with this photo from benchy bot)

  • printing a temperature tower, bowden tube printer usually need 190 - 200 (pla) / lower temps (towers can be found under calibration in orca)

  • double check you belt tension.

  • not sure about your tall objects but could that be heatcreep of sorts?

if it's not been modified your max safe temp should be 225 due to the ptfe lining.

timid elbowBOT
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?zoffset2 requested by: wolfesbluebox#0
naive charm
naive charm
# steel pier ok based on your pictures, I'd suggest starting with: - drying your filament (he...

tbh i dont know how much drying i need to do, i did the diy method twice, one at 55 for 6 hours and another at 60 for 2 hours a day later, im not sure how its supposed to feel when fully dry is it supposed to be coarse? and by z offset do you mean the screws to level the bed or a slicer setting? ive been trying to level the bed a bunch but im not sure its working well, the corners seem fairly level but the middle always seems like its lower or thats just due to printing height. ill print the tower right now and retension the belts. also ive been watching, the temps usually dont go above 221-2 (rarely getting to 2) if anything i see the temps drop more down to 218

steel pier
naive charm
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ohhh i didnt know it was so long, i’m gonna dry it overnight to be sure then. also i did print the tower, it looks like a mess, i’ll update you tomorrow to test the tower again

steel pier
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dry then we do z offset. bulbasmile
you got this.

timid elbowBOT
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naive charm
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i realized i forgot to flip it before i slept, i’m gonna leave it on at 50-55 for a couple hours as i need to go somewhere in a bit, should it more or less be done by then for sure?

timid elbowBOT
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naive charm
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everything was fine for a while but when i came back it was like this, got halfway through 215

steel pier
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Hmm ok, can i have a look at the bottom if the print too please?
I'm wondering if this is maybe more z offset related than heat.