Nope
#idk tf im doing ender 3 edition
vale gyro
quaint reef
awesome tysm
vale gyro
Cursor is just .bin with a new extension to make MCU ignore it
quaint reef
ok got it
sooo
i can only format the sd card as fat32
but rrf docs say to format as fat16
does that work?
or do i need to download a sd card formatting tool
quaint reef
my windows said nuh uh
cloud lava
its fine and it ensures that the SD card is properly formatted🤷
quaint reef
can some1 explain the sd card structure to me?
quaint reef
might be restarted but i cant set it to fat16 specifically
would this be an issue?
vale gyro
can some1 explain the sd card structure to me?
SD card root is the folder you enter when you enter the SD card itself
In this root you need folders:
filaments
firmware
gcodes
macros
sys
And in these folders, files as shown by the tree
quaint reef
ok
cloud lava
would this be an issue?
This is fine but be aware that you will only have this space for any files on the system, be it macros, gcodes etc
cloud lava
The ones you upload to the printer go there
quaint reef
im guessing i can just use the sd card and drop files in there untill i get the esp or will that not work?
vale gyro
im guessing i can just use the sd card and drop files in there untill i get the ...
I don't think that you can select the gcode file via gcode
quaint reef
oh right
vale gyro
i was going to check if it’s compatible with the board
Should be
There's a plugin for RRF to use these displays
quaint reef
Should be
There's a plugin for RRF to use these displays
neat
quaint reef
for future reference
its just my old config
so i know what im doing with the rrf configurator
does it matter how i place my drivers?
as in do they have to go in some order
or just an order that i understand and remember?
i was thinking of doing like X E0 U E1 Y - Z -
cloud lava
The configurator will have a default order that you are free to change
cloud lava
Na as long as you assign the pins correctly
quaint reef
yup tysm
vale gyro
if im supposed to put them in some order
Nah, just make sure you define motors before anything that uses motors, that's basically the only requirement
Remember that on RRF you can define a motor mid print and RRF won't mind
quaint reef
lol
that sounds insane to put it like that
gcode based config is actually pretty genius
vale gyro
gcode based config is actually pretty genius
It gives you a lot of freedom
cloud lava
that sounds insane to put it like that
Its both safer and more dangerous than klipper
quaint reef
if it cant burn my house down then i dont want it
vale gyro
if it cant burn my house down then i dont want it
Mid print you can undefine heater and fan, define fan as heater and heater as fan and let it rip
quaint reef
also
1 question
how tf do i wire an e stop
i got the idea
of switching motors to dedicated input
and then cut off motor input and bed heater input
and run them in paralel
vale gyro
That's too many amps for a typical estop
The easy way is to power the mainboard using an external 5 V (old phone charger) and use estop to cut mains going to the 24 V PSU
quaint reef
dont mind the very professional sketch
quaint reef
That's too many amps for a typical estop
The easy way is to power the mainboard ...
ok thats actually a good idea
so i need to buy a tiny 5v psu / dissasemble an old charger or smth
bcs i want to clean up the electronics
vale gyro
so i need to buy a tiny 5v psu / dissasemble an old charger or smth
No need to disassemble if you put a mains outlet inside your printer
quaint reef
also i want to uhhh keep this on the back and add another switch between this and PSU(s) at the front of the printer
whats the safest way to do it?
just run the Vin wire through the entire printer to a switch at the front
vale gyro
just run the Vin wire through the entire printer to a switch at the front
That's what I'm doing. To be extra safe you can use a DPST / DPDT switch to switch both L and N
vale gyro
DPST?
DPST - double pole single throw
DPDT - double pole double throw
So switch with 2 circuits. DPST has only NO contacts, DPDT has both NO and NC
vale gyro
that certainly limits the ammount of cool switches i can use :c
It's just the safer way, as this way you don't need to be concerned whether your outlet is wired right or wrong
cloud lava
Or if your stock IEC socket is just single pole and you trip the breaker working on it despite it being off
quaint reef
yeah i get it
quaint reef
did the config
printer didn’t explode
i’ll see if it explodes when i try printing smth
but i kinda just want to wait for the esp
quaint reef
i think its the play here
get it back up and running propperly
clean up the electronics
get a psu that wont burn my house down
and postpone idex
quaint reef
What is it doing in that video?
speed test macro
quaint reef
I don't really get many problems with it
i did but that’s because that was my first spool of petg ever and it was shit
quaint reef
speed test macro
should be 300@12k
quaint reef
my esp arrived as i was leaving the house 
guess i know what ill be doing while waiting for classes today
quaint reef
it’s alive
will need to config it when i have time for that
but at least im able to do that now
quaint reef
it works again
weird af
need to go back to limit switches can’t figure out sensorless
hard walrus
it works again
🥳🥳
hard walrus
wifi works again not printer lmao
Oh
quaint reef
doing limit switches tmrw
got all them ready
issue is im at home and printer is at uni
quaint reef
#711873626080804917 message
cyan blaze
need to go back to limit switches can’t figure out sensorless
I actively de-sensorless-ed my SV06+, because now I can home with way higher speeds and get more accurate XY-positioning
quaint reef
fixed bed thermistor soldering
fucked up by making a cable for the Y end stop
which i cant even fucking mount
i wasted so much time on this shit
aaaaaaaaaaaaw
omw to waste 5h trying to connect rrf to wifi
quaint reef
the more i try to get this printer working
the more i want to just buy a pi and go back to klipper
rrf is so pointlessly confusing
quaint reef
ive spend 5h trying to set up sensorless homing
and it doesnt even work
in klipper its 5-10 minutes
cloud lava
quaint reef
im in the rrf discord
quaint reef
sensorless homing in rrf is dogshit to a point where it made me go back to limit switches
i’ll set it up tmrw
vale gyro
sensorless homing in rrf is dogshit to a point where it made me go back to limit...
Fun, usually the consensus is that it's better than Klippers
quaint reef
klipper worked
rrf doesnt and nobody knows why
installed the limit switch
it works now
cyan blaze
Fun, usually the consensus is that it's better than Klippers
in what aspects is it considered better? I noticed when switching to Kalico that the latter allows homing at a lower stepper current, whereas you have to explicitly switch currents with mainline Klipper. Is there more I missed?
vale gyro
in what aspects is it considered better? I noticed when switching to Kalico that...
I was told that in RRF it's more repeatable and not as prone to false triggers as the temperature changes. No idea how it compares to Kalico, I've only seen comparison to mainline Klipper
quaint reef
in kalico it was flawless
i literally just change 1 line
and im using sensorless or limit switches
cyan blaze
I was told that in RRF it's more repeatable and not as prone to false triggers a...
hmm, feels kinda weird tbh, as the triggering is decided by the driver, most of the repeatability and error-robustness should be down to the values you set stallguard to
unless "[less] repeatable and [more] prone to false triggers" is the symptom of running at full current during homing, because your firmware doesn't have the option to reduce it built-in
vale gyro
hmm, feels kinda weird tbh, as the triggering is decided by the driver, most of ...
Unless you change the other registers just for homing as well, but I haven't looked into code at all