Printer settings for PLA+ to print bat skeleton

[subtle seal]

Hey y'all. Im newish to 3d printing and am reaching out for some help. I am trying to print a fruit bat skeleton (here is the link: https://www.printables.com/model/337433-flying-fox-skeleton). The instructions say to scale it up by 10,000 to 12,000% for realistic size. I am doing 13,000% for good measure. Here are the stats and meaterial I am using:
Printer: Ender 5 Plus
Filament:
-Brand: Supply 3D
-Material: PLA+
-Color: Cold White

The first time I printed it, i printed the whole thing at 100 mm/s. This took around 12 hrs. You can see the result of that in the left skull in the attached picture. The second time, I just printed the skull and I printed at 30 mm/s and included the ironing step. This is the skull on the right in the attached picture. This secound time around took 9 hours on the skull alone. But I really like the quality.

So, my first question is: What are some settings I could use to get this same or similar quality but at a much faster rate (if possible)?
Second question: The rib cage in this model is extremely fragile. The designer even says its the hardest part to print. It shaddered when I was trying to remove the supports. Since then, I bought a hot knife and plan to use it the next time around. But, are there any suggestions on how to better print the rib cage?

[obtuse jolt]

AI Help

Great to hear you are getting into 3D printing! Here are some suggestions for improving your print quality and reliability on your Ender 5 Plus:

1. To achieve similar quality prints at a faster rate, you could try the following settings:

   • Increase the printing temperature slightly for better layer adhesion and faster extrusion.
   • Increase the layer height to speed up the print but keep in mind this may affect the surface finish.
   • Adjust the infill percentage to strike a balance between strength and print time.
   • Experiment with different print speeds, finding the right balance between speed and quality for your print.

2. Dealing with fragile parts like the rib cage can be tricky. Here are some tips:

   • Strengthen the part by adjusting your slicing software's settings—consider increasing wall thickness, infill density, or using thicker support structures.
   • Orient the rib cage for optimal strength, considering the direction of the layers.
   • Use support structu...

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.

[obtuse jolt]

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[subtle seal]

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[static carbon]

Probably just use tree supports maybe more walls or infill. Keep the speed down I’d it works

[mellow gorge]

Start with maybe drying your filament.... (If your yet to do it!)
What temps?
Layer adhesion is sometimes better at a higher temp = stronger prints.

The one on the right looks pretty good with the lower layer height.....you can also use dynamic layer hieght for even better results and boost in speed. (Set to quality)

You can always split up the file for the rib cage and attach with dowel style connectors + glue later. Test the sizes with small partial prints beforehand to make sure they fit.

This will save material from supports, should make it stronger and might be less frustrating...and reduce failure waste too.

I wouldn't iron these pieces as they are not flat surfaces (typically ironing is used on flat surfaces)
A light coat of white matte paint might be enough to complete hide layer lines if it worries you. It's less of an issue on large pieces though.

Because it is so thin, you might want to increase the max layer time...and also check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MOKjQxbP18
On the bit to do with strength and small extrusions.

If there was a way to reinforce the bones, by say...using a boolean subtract with a cylinder along the length of the bone either pausing to add wire or dowel or threading it afterwards.
I dont see how this model will hold together after printing it. Everything is so thin.... 😅 So if you had wire, you could use it to act as a sortive armature (look up wire armature for stop motion animation), and tie up the ends together....

I hope this sortive helps!!

[obtuse jolt]

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[subtle seal]

Thanks a lot! Yeah the parts are pretty thin. I am trying to make it work for a science communication project I'm working on. So hopefully I can get it to work. Some people have had success with it, So we'll see lol

[subtle seal]

Not heard of dynamic layer lines. I'm working in PrusaSicer. I'll see if it has that setting

[subtle seal]

If I remember correctly, I was printing at 225.

[mellow gorge]

Should be fine.....
Some can get benifits up to 260.... The only way to test is a temp tower.
Bowden tube printers are limited to 225 though, so that'll do. 🤞

Idk if you can also anneal them and if that'll help or just warp the print even 🤔

Also maybe gyroid infill.. i read somewhere it's supposed to act like bone marrow....of course i could be wrong...so fact check me. 👌