#FDM Printer Enclosure

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somber thicket
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I'm looking to build an enclosure for my Ender 3 v3 SE printer so i can stop dust from getting on it / to print ABS, Nylon etc.
Here are 2 topics im looking for more information :

1. Main enclosure material :
The material i'm looking to build it out of will be : GLASS

Here are 3 glass options, choose one and tell me why yes or why not (expand your arguments) :

  1. Acrylic glass
  2. Regular glass
  3. Tempered glass

The material GLASS will be held with either silicone / rubber + metal frame. The cable holes will be having either rubber cutouts or just a plain pipe. Additional info will be that the screen will be moved outside the enclosure to protect the screen from heat. From what i'm reading online, enclosure temperature should be around 60 C, any higher and the electronic components can be damaged the more time goes on.

2. Ventilation
Should i add ventilation ? Passive or active ? If yes, then where ? ( placement ) How many ventilations ?

west viperBOT
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AI Help
  1. In terms of choosing a glass material for your enclosure for the Ender 3 v3 SE printer, here are some considerations for each option:

  • Acrylic glass: Acrylic glass, also known as Plexiglass, is a lightweight and shatter-resistant material. It is a popular choice for 3D printer enclosures due to its transparency and ease of fabrication. However, it has a lower resistance to scratches compared to other glass types. Acrylic may also warp at higher temperatures, so if your enclosure will reach 60°C, you may want to consider its heat resistance.

  • Regular glass: Regular glass, such as float glass, is a more traditional option. It provides good clarity and scratch resistance. However, regular glass is more prone to breaking compared to tempered glass. If safety is a concern, you may want to consider the potential for breakage and the safety implications.

  • Tempered glass: Tempered glass is a type of safety glass that is tougher and more impact-resistant than regular glass. If the e...

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
full berry
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the screen is not the only thing that should be moved outside, there are boards inside the printer itself that should be moved outside

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also i would do some kind of PIR foam or soething good at insulating if you really want it to get to 60C

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and as for ventilation, you can add a recirculating one like nevermore, or bento box

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oh and make sure to relpace the PTFE heatbreak on the SE with an all metal one

somber thicket
full berry
west viperBOT
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west viperBOT
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somber thicket
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bump

rapid heron
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SE needs a heatbreak upgrade to print PETG and up

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Unless creality sneakily changed that

somber thicket
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Ok so after some research ( didnt know it, im glad you guys commented ) Ender 3 v3 SE is only rated to print PLA TPU and PETG with the last one being risky as it gets to the limit of 260 hotend max temp. For PETG > ABS > PC you have to have modified the hotend ( nozzle + heatbreak )

Here comes the problems when printing PETG > ABS > PC :

  1. The PTFE tube can melt and its made of teflon. Its very very very toxic for humans when fuming.

  2. Hotend upgrades are shady. I keep seeing bi-metal heatbreaks rated for 300 C and if its a lie, bye bye printer and also your lungs ( i could not find full metal heatbrakes but i did find ceramic hotends with bi-metal heatbreaks ). On top of that, e-shopping is horrible for specific parts unless you order from China and you put your trust in them that they would deliver the proper thing ( as an European ).

  3. On top of these two, your enclosure needs to keep electronics away from it, as the maximum ambient temperature would be 60 C for regular thin wires and electronic components so they wont melt from the heat or long exposure to heat.

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To sum it up, i will stick to plexi glass with passive cooling for TPU / PLA. Its simply too much hassle for stronger plastics. If i want to print those, i should just buy an actual printer rated for these Doge

somber thicket