#DoNotDelta
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
yeah printed part on top of the metal
i do wonder about getting it machined all together though
you have tensioner on the idler side?
that was the plan
makes sense, lower weight
i was gonna tension by tightening the two idlers together for top/bottom so it pulls even tension on both sides at once
then just clamp it down to the extrusion
I don't think that's really doable without matching the belt tensions first
like a 2 step system
well with identical tooth count shouldnt it be fine?
I don't count on it
idk was just a thought
i should have space to move them individually
i was also thinking about doing it motor side
would also give me the easier belt path
I think I might do that belt path minus the moving motor
This whole thread is spectacular lowkey
tortle when are you going to just make a lathe so you can make balls yourself
i did things
sandwiches belts with a 2mm alu plate
i thought about this for so long last night
i do need to figure out a flag for endstops
maybe i can use a screw
belt geometry shamelessly stolen from @kindred musk
Straight lines to the attachment points would be better too, I feel
it’s 2.5mm
I would think the two thing is better for twisting 
I meant 2, just in a triangle
Your twisting load will be from joint friction, it won't be much
sounds good
i am sooo tempted to model out the steel cable
would look good for renders
maybe later
the frame has 180 screws in it
(so far)
168 of them are M5x10 socket heads
F
lol i cant remember how to find the arm angle at the center of the bed
Sketch it out and do trig
yea
okay
all that’s left are the not as easy/fun parts 
motor assemblies, idler assemblies, tensioner of some sort, electronics
I feel like a separate ebox is more work for a worse result.
But I’m not sure
I think I’d rather do like a sidepack
so basically to get horizontal belt path
the motor has to be moved in quite a bit
or moved out of the frame
hm
72mm
moving it out of the frame is 45mm
so like
actually not that bad?
now the question is if i do tensioning with motor sliding
hmm
i could also maybe do something that presses or pulls on that horizontal straight section of belt?
Pythagoras will tell you why it's a huge pain
fair point
perhaps just idler tensioning then
idk
i think thatll do
we will see
nevermind
forgot the pulleys arent centered
there we go
im trying to challenge myself to make parts look nicer/more unique
not just blocks
i think this one turned out decent
just bolts to the bottom panel
maybe i could have it bolt to the top one too but idk if its necessart
got suggested to make the motor assemblies out of sheet metal
threw something together to test pricing anddd
im honestly not sure sheet metal motor assemblies are worth the $200-$250 that it would cost
over just printing a part
I don't think so
Like, maybe just bearing holders because plastic is a bit too bendy to hold the bearing where it should under load, but that's all
much better
well i tried but
there is no way to fit the blowers in the base of the printer
i'll have to put them in the sidepack somehow
not looking forward to electronics
Lol fair
need to decide how i want to do the electronics bay
some sort of sidepack
question is if i just use a lot of printed parts or if i use more extrusions/lasercut stuff
i guess that depends on price
Just a side panel on one wall and a bunch of DIN rails 
I would love to do that and am considering it
My only concern is if i travel with this printer
For this you could have a simple cover, like a plywood / ACM / whatever panel you bolt on only for transport

Lace the wiring for extra swag
Would love to
anywho
im pretty confident im gonna go for 48v
whcih does make wiring more complex
so the 3hc only has one power input and that has to be 48v
the 6hc has 2 inputs, 2 voltages
so that should be uhhh
well, hm
one has to be 48
now I can either have the other be 5 or 24
I’ll still need 24 either way for heaters stuff I think? but it’s a question of if the board gets it or not
having 5v data and being able to kill the others for safety would probably be nice?
but there’s no way to keep the 3hc powered if I kill 48
wait
minimum 12v for vin
but there’s a 5v header
does 3hc have one of those 5v headers
it appears it does not
and I also don’t think that 5v input powers the mcu?
and I guess the high amp input is only for out0
so im gonna need to give both boards 48v and then heaters and stuff get 24v through just psu and then control on the negative line?
hmmmm
so there’s no point in a 5v psu I think
I’ll power boards and thus motors off 48, fans and heaters off 24, safety relay on 24
should be ok
I do wanna try my hand at laced cables for sure
Question is do I do like, all white wires or something
Or do I do multicolor
I'll check the mainboard schematics tomorrow if you want
Oh I could look at those, I forget it’s public
All the documentation says the external 5v supply is for 5v output tho and I feel like it would mention if it can power data (and would also be included on the 3hc if it could power data)
U could double shear the connector pieces easily me thinks btw. It depends if enough clearance low-key
Granted I assume u checked. But just wanna give words of affirmation if haven't
yeah im quite confident its not necessary when mounted to metal
effectors will be cnc aswell unless I can’t source them lol
this is a bad assumptionn
forces are not that high
I ran fusion sims and all the deflection would be at the carriages not the joints (tho there’s still a significant factor of safety)
Mandatory
Simulations
Always remember the golden rule of simulations:
"All simulations are wrong, only some are useful."
30 N is quite a bit
Gonna put the endstops off to the sides and integrate the endstop flag into the little lasercut belt clamp plate.
Should work well I hope
I think it would be funny to mirror polish the carriages and use one of those IR endstops