Hey, how are you? I'm Alex. I recently upgraded some parts on my Ender 3, and now my prints look terrible — lots of holes, a bit of stringing, some ringing, etc. I installed a brand-new Bondtech BMG extruder, an E3D Volcano hotend, and converted everything to direct drive.
I suspect the ringing might be due to the added weight of the print head, which could potentially be solved by properly tuning input shaper. However, I can't figure out what's causing the holes in the prints and the little stringing i have.
I've been tinkering for a while and managed to reduce about 60% of the holes and stringing by calibrating retraction, temperature, flow rate, PID tuning, etc. But I still can't fully eliminate these issues, and it's starting to drive me crazy.
I'm relatively new to 3D printing — been into it for about 5 months now. I bought an old Ender 3 for just 30 bucks, fixed it up, installed Klipper, and added a bunch of upgrades. This is my first major roadblock, and I could really use some guidance.
I'll be uploading a video and some photos of my latest prints shortly. Any help would be truly appreciated!"
#i just did an update to mi printer, and now i cant make it work correctly
broken dirge
hybrid grailBOT
Hey, how are you? I'm Alex. I recently upgraded some parts on my Ender 3, and no...
broken dirge
marble cargo
Is your fillament dry?
copper zephyr
The large vertical lines are called salmon skin...(I think)
https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/3d-print-salmon-skin/
And you'll want to check your hotend is screwed on tight and straight.
Or
Increase your temps or slow speeds, unless you have not pid tuned, in which case... Do that...
broken dirge
I did the pid tune with mainsail, is there any other ways thats is better?
copper zephyr
I did the pid tune with mainsail, is there any other ways thats is better?
Not sure about the klipper side of thing, i usaully make sure to only do stuff through a cable to the printer or the physical screen.
Not sure how to tell if it's reading wrong.
Was just reading the link yesterday and saw this 😅
broken dirge
I'm using the stock motherboard on this Ender 3. I was planning to buy a new SKR E3 V3 for this printer. Is there any possibility that the salmon skin effect is caused by the stepper motor drivers?
broken dirge
Not sure about the klipper side of thing, i usaully make sure to only do stuff t...
thanks for the link, i didnt knew about this effect
copper zephyr
I'm using the stock motherboard on this Ender 3. I was planning to buy a new SKR...
Yes.
If they are not good quality... But i'd imagine voltage might come into it as well, it says something about smoothing...
So u could have ok motor but power delivery isn't enough or consistent.
How you done your pa \ pressure advance vaules as well? (Unrelated)
Also esteps maybe as you've added a new extruder system....especially if u added a new stepper motor there..
R u following a tuning guide?
broken dirge
about the pa, i just did the calibration from orca slicer, the linear one, and about the tuning guide, im not following any guid right now, im just upgrading things from this printer when i have free time
broken dirge
Also esteps maybe as you've added a new extruder system....especially if u added...
and about the steps, i recalibrated the stpes from the new motor, and im sure that when i say to print 100mm it prints 100 mm
copper zephyr
about the pa, i just did the calibration from orca slicer, the linear one, and a...
Ok... For calibration, it helps to do things in a bit of an order...
I usually use pattern cos pa is about corners, but a voron cube (small) is also handy.
hybrid grailBOT
tulip bough
for advance klipper can do a fun thing about changing it by layer, i like this guide then turn walls to 1, it will start to fail then you can cancel it https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html