#3D Printed Steadicam
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I've made a 2nd version and thickened around the hinges as I was advised. Any ideas for how to further improve this? I intend to prototype in PETG and finalize it in ASA.
same thing on both sides, thin metal plate top and bottom (or washers) and threaded rods with nuts
Or a long bolt
yeah not much I can say since modeling isnt really my thing, but yeah turning down cooling will show significant layer strength improvements
Print orientation also matters
I'll have to try that then, before figuring out how to integrate metal plates and bolts without having too many things jutting out of the model
I'll be orienting most of these for better strength, but the hinges are the biggest issue I'm told
Since they'll be loaded on two different axis
Yeah 3D printed hinges are not the strongest
I suppose I just have to finish the model for now, and then test things out once I get a 3D printer
I'll make a model designed with and without steel rods, so I can test with and without reinforcement
I'll pray that the z axis will be strong enough without reinforcements for a month of stress testing
The size of it?
It's around 80cm long I think
Yeah, cuz some of those elements look thin but if it's 2cm thick IRL than it's far less of a concern X)
Ye, the thin parts of the hinge before were 1cm thick, now all hinge elements are 2cm thick as was recommended yesterday
Also started designing the mounting system, which I've changed to mount to 12mm rails on the vest instead to avoid mounting it against a weaker axis of the print
hi
Hi
So, additional information I haven't included above yet. I intend to stress test it with 10kg, but I would never recommend anyone I may sell it to, to load above 5kg
Somewhere like that
The stabilizer that college students like myself might be able to afford would be roughly 1.8kg already, leaving allowance of 3.2kg for camera, lens, and follow focus systems if they can afford that
what stabilizer system
This kind
I'm trying to keep costs low enough that college students and hobbyists would not be deterred from it
I'm going to design the arm and vest, and sell those. I haven't thought about also including the stabilizer
you have to have some sort of goal of "3.2kg" because that is very vague, a RED dragon alone weighs 5lb.. are you designing for smaller rigs or larger?
Smaller
The film making students at my college tend to go handheld with mirrorless and DSLR
So I'm designing with them in mind
An example of the kind of kit I've seen them using for their film making class is a Sony ZV-E10 with the 16-50mm kit lens
Other times is a Canon 60D with an 18-55 kit lens
Maybe I should stress test with 15kg instead
15kg, always be safe
Well, I'll do 15kg stress tests for a month then
I'll be running around with it more or less every day for a month to make sure it wouldn't break with more normal usage
Is there anything you would change or improve in the design right now?
So, would that come into how the vest is designed?
that and the actual arm itself
So I have to figure out how to make it lighter if the arm itself is too heavy?
Like infills and wall thicknesses
I can try to hollow out some parts of the long sections
I've considered designing it like a truss for stiffness
So I've converted one to a truss as a test
I don't think it's made very well though, I'll do again
Maybe?
I have an idea
Yeah?
You could split the middle hinge in half and then you can have the optimal print orientation for each axis.
And then glue and bolt it together?
That melty kinda glue?
I'll draw a picture but yes basically
That is so simple that I have no idea why that didn't come up earlier
The weld should in theory be as strong as the layers if done right
I could also protrude a block from one end and make a cutout in the other so they go in with more surface area for the weld
Mechanically 3D prints are similar to wood working because of the strand orientation
Like joinery
If I do it that way, then possibly, it won't even shear at the weld because the layers are going in two different directions, making it strong both ways
I've added that suggestion into the center hinge
I think I could also do it for the mounting point at the end
Found inspiration for how to design for the spring mountings
I will model the V3 of this arm with the springs in mind
I just need to establish everything else first
I won't be able to design a cam system like that without increasing complexity and cost a lot though
Update
Used the sketch tool to kinda visualize how I might be able to install the spring
In the end, it seems I need to use a single cam to add any kind of adjustment to the spring tension due to the length of the part I would need
The spring installs diagonally in the parallelogram, the circle is where a cam would be installed, and a turnbuckle would be in the shape at the bottom to adjust spring tension
Decreased hole size after actually finding a grooved bearing and taking the measurements
I think that will do
Wait, no, that's wrong, isn't it
This adjustment system is going to be the death of me
This might actually be more ideal for adjustment
A single spring, and a single turnbuckle
Current state
Started work on Harness
Waiting for printer to start testing
I see now, hm, I might suggest widening the 4 bar mechanism, you could probably get away with making the top one extend up and the bottom ones extend down so you still maintain the full trave distance.
Extending up and down?
Like making it thicker above/below the center to center of the hinges?
I'll work on that later
Though right now I need to find a printer with a larger print bed than the Ender 3
Turns out those arm sections don't fit, even diagonally
How long are they?
All arm sections are 300mm long
When laid in correct print orientation, they're also 40mm wide
Oh oof, hm, a cheap one might be a Sidewinder X# of some kind, the have. 300 mm bed
May I suggest something that may be require a total redesign but also be easier overall?
That doesn't do what a steadicam does though
And then attach a linear rail vertical with a balance to make it steady.
The steadicam stabilizes vertical movement
There's a separate one for other axis of movement that you attach to the end
That's what I mean, the four bar mechanism you have goes up and down to stabilize no?
Yeah, it does
It's also designed to have a preloaded spring mounted in the middle to support the weight of a camera
Yeah, you can do that with this too.
I'm not sure how marketable a jerry rigged tv mount would be to sell though
I plan to sell it to folks taking up film making in college, otherwise I'd have just bought some pipes to make this
I will try to design a stronger front end real quick
I made two versions off of the latest model of the arm.
Both the square half tube and the round half tube are more common ways I see steadicam arms made
Thinking about it
There doesn't seem to be a way to print the half tube and still have it be a strong print
If you want it to look nice and still be printable (ie not be blocky) I'd suggest adding a draft to the sides. Not sure how you have it modeled but essentially like so:
/----
| |
Chamfer would work too. One with two different lengths edges
I figured doing it like how existing ones are made might be better for strength
A turnbuckle on one end
Then I have to find a spring that I can tension to support 2-10kg and my 15kg stress loads
Make sure it's one you can consistently get.