#Crimp can't crimp
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
It sounds like you may be referring to encountering a "Clogged or Wet Filament" (CWF) issue during the 3D printing process. This can happen if there is a blockage in the extruder or if the filament is wet and causing issues with extrusion. To troubleshoot this, you can try clearing any blockages in the extruder, drying out the filament, or adjusting the printing temperature settings.
?crimping
Expand your knowledge of quality crimp production with additional information on creating proper crimp connections.
what is the exact issue?
does it not let you insert it into the housing or does it break when inserting?
thats like complaining in a dealership that your car doesnt start
What info do you need
what is the issue. like just saying it doesnt work wont help much
Those crimps look like they need to be redone.
I've followed all the advice on crimping and still doesn't work
I don't think you're following it very closely then, sorry
But I perfectly crimped the insulator holder and the wire holder
The -14C (aka no connection) means they are not
You have no connection between the thermistor and the board
So some of your wiring is not okay
the entire connector looks crooked, the insulation crimp doesnt look like it doesnt rolled over correctly and is now digging into the insulation
But it was working just 10 mins ago
Man. Your crimps are improper, they really are, I understand you do not believe us
But everything is showing they are not okay
Stuff don't just spontaneously breka
Yes it does when the wires break due to bad crimping or connections being iffy
send a better picture
it does if you dont crimp it correctly and just movement causes it to break
I added as much strain relief as I could
where it correct strain relief?
This is what I mean. We cannot help you if you're just going to dig your heels in and say it is fine when it is very clearly not.
So what do I do
I've been hear for 3* hours
Follow our instructions. Redo your crimps, carefully.
Is there a crimping service I could my cables to
You just need to take your time and follow the video better
You were almost there just had some issues since you're new to it
I've been here for 3 hrs and I've school work to do
which is okay
No.
I will not provide more advice until you have redone the botched crimps myself, I am very sure they are the source of your issues.
I'm this close to selling my printer
sometimes going slow is the way to be fast.
you can try to rush stuff and have to redo it 15 times until it works
or do it right once in half the time the fast way goes
but yea we cant really help if we dont get much informations on what doesnt work.
I am remembering telling you to "get proper strain relief or you will regret it" some time ago...
I just crimp it using my engineer pa09, press down once and then pass it with my 1.6 and crimp it again
I've done it
This one had lots of strain relief
And it still failed
Next printer I'm going solder to solder no connectors
But all the boards have connectors
Should I just sell this printer
Idk
I'm depressed
I've been at it for 3 days now
looking throu the pictures you posted on the wiring issue.
would guess you use the wrong crimp connector size for the size of wire you try to crimp onto, that will solve your connectivity issues.
you could probably try to strip a longer section and fold the striped section over to get more bulk and a better connection.
I feel worthless
But the AliExpress listing just said microfit
some of the crimps where also badly done, where the insulation is crimped into the wire crimp part
yea because its aliexpress, they sell stuff most people want, but there are more than one size crimp contact for MF3
also dont trust these for the full amps MF3 is rated for
that would fix your crimping issues and you could just solder it in
It's just a moneypit at this point and it's infuriating wires are the only thing stopping me from printing
ive had no issues crimping MF3 in the past with the PAD11. i did sourced genuine crimps from Mouser and Digikey
So what should I do
Do I just try again or just sell
Or spend like 100 bucks to get wires
try to fold over your 3 strain wire a few times to give the crimp a chance to have contact
like with 3 strains there is a chance that it wont stay inside the crimp, or the crimp just seats next to it
I also don't know if the female thermistor I crimped is sending signals
measure resistance of the thermistor
The wires are getting dangerously short my friend
well then consider it shrödingers cat
its all i can suggest you with what you have rn
and with the informations i have
Should I use this
?
they dont work for strained wire
Or crimp to ferrule
Schrödinger's cat: a cat, a flask of poison, and a radioactive source connected to a Geiger counter are placed in a sealed box. As illustrated, the quantum description uses a superposition of an alive cat and one that has died.
means the state of the cat is either dead or allive but it cant be confirmed until observed
Because I need this up and running asap for my senior mechanical project
I know what Schroedinger's car is but I'm not sure how it applies here
you could use Wago terminals, they are springloaded
well your thermistor is either dead or allive until confirmed
Sounds expensive T_T
I sadly live in Singapore so extremely long and expensive shipping
So what should I do next,m
16awg wire and wago terminal?
would get a thermistor that doesnt use sketchy wire
It's from mellow
not sure how cheap it where. but probably to cheap considering the issues it caused
ngl if you have this many issues. toss the printer and get one that works out of the box
It's just cause of the wire 😦
It's a fast printer
It should not be down just because of such a pathetic cause
I built her
if all else fails: Inline wagos
Do I need to crimp anything?
Wagos are lever locks
A lot bulkier than crimps but way easier
Inline splicing connector with levers; for all conductor types; max. 4 mm²; 2-conductor; transparent housing; white cover; Surrounding air temperature: max 85°C (T85); 4,00 mm²; transparent (4066966120271) | WAGO
Should I get those? Do I need to glue em on something?
I've been thinking of taking the electronics out and putting them in their own box
Would this help??
no you open the lever, push in the wire, close the lever
(for low power stuff like the hotend you could use the Aliexpress special of these)
but you want to strainrelief them properly
How should I do that?
Double sided tape them to the wall?
ziptie them to the toolhead
print a plate with a post and ziptie the wire bundle to that
also add some hotglue to the wire to prevent it from wiggling around
or ziptie them to the toolhead
Can't print without a printer
Fix it then print it
I don't have a lot of tyable areas on my toolhead
The extruder has two threaded holes on the front, right?
you will have to do that. otherwise it will fail again
Yeah but that's the fan mount I'm wanting to print
So? Add the strain relief post into that design
Cause I'm thinking of putting everything in a box and putting it on the top rack
So the control screen, PSU and motherboard are away from the printer
Just a post there and zipties
For example
Issue is how can I print something if my printer is down
Fix the wires and do a slow 15 minute print
Or screw a random bit of something on there and tie them to that
I cut up parts of failed prints for jury rigged shit
as long as it works
I don't know if I can mentally do this
then complain for all eternity about your broken printer
Go to sleep
I have to send an email to Magpul first
Come back in a few days
And design a mechanical design
Leave it be for a while
Should I hire someone to fix it?
"need" as in "your life depends on it" or "need" as in "I wanted to do this and feel obliged to do so"
I need it so I can work from home
Because it's a long ass commute to my campus
About 1.5 hrs each way
Same for me to work
Yeah but there's only limited times I can use the school 3d printer
So if I really wanna be effective I will have to print at home
So can I just replace all the microfit with the wago?
Sure, one for each wire to wire connection
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How do I use the multimeter
Cause I've measured it it says ol' for everything
Even the untouched resistor
I'm getting o ohms for everything
How do I measure
Voltage is 0 too for everything
I do have like 0.4mv from the thermistor
Also I don't have wago inline connectors in my country can I use this?
@runic vessel
Still 0.L and I have no idea why
Electrical engineering is just magic ah bullshit go
Put it on continuity
Okay lemme check
do some practice crimps
Nope dead
Ive done that
I just want to get it over and done with 2 days before now
crimp better? idk how to help you atp
I mean does crimpers fully squish it and are you using right width slot
It does
Yet it's not working
It's like the strain relief has broke the cable as well
There never was strain relief on your toolhead
At least not from the pictures you shared
Can just run some spare wire back and see if that works?
A totally different set does work
Then what did????
If I knew I would tell you
So i have to redo all the cables, man thats tough
ill probably do it after graduration
man its really the hardest part of a printer
I don't know, I don't even know what you tried to measure with the multimeter
I tried to measure resistance
no dice
Of which part?
Thermistor
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if it is a thermistor, i would measure the resistance across the two leads of it. It should be roughly around 100,000 Ohms at 25C for a NTC 3950 100K Thermistor
Also regarding moving the electronics that is do-able but I would advise against that until you have the printer in good working condition. I did a tiny write up regarding crimping https://discord.com/channels/167661427862142976/1087062951007109301 and I always find the crimping guideline posters from various manufactures to be helpful in inspecting crimps
(so the 100k setting on meter if it has it or autorange)
Actually this might be easier to see on certial rejections regarding a bad crimp
If you crimp too tight you can actually break the wires under the insulation and cause intermittent connections that you don't discover until the wire flexes. What seems like is working will fail within a couple cycles of movement or cause unstable operation
While this is not my picture nor exactly how you will be measuring, the idea is the same. That you want to measure the two wires from the thermistor and get a resistance reading to determine if it is working
From what the other here have noted please do secure down your wire harness after you have it working to help prevent motion strain on the wires which can cause breaks in the wire over time or possibly tension on the crimps where it should not be
I understand the wiring part of 3D printers can be very frustrating and things like WAGO 221 or similar can work or even help just test components so the are nice to have on hand.
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Reads 0.L sadly
Hmm why not tho, if Im moving to a completely different set of cables, why cant I just move the electronics as well
Yup no signal from the resistor
Might be the shitty chinese multimeter im using
okay why is this shit not googable lol
I could not find that at all on the interwebs
The thermistor might be dead then or break in the middle of the wire occurred. oL usually means open lead meaning it’s not detecting anything. Do you have another you can test against?
Yup and those are working
You’d possibly have to extend every cable to run them longer and if the heated bed is a DC on the you want ensure you have the correctly rated wires and terminal for the job. While in theory it seems like an easy job, and it might be for you. I recommended against it without knowing your proficiency in electronics and cabling also what method are you going about extending the wires. Be it solder splicing, crimps and connectors, and making sure you label / document each cable / wire to hook it up.
I could do it but I'm mentally drained and exhausted
I nearly lost my marbles over this imo
Ah yeah sometimes it’s best to take a break and come back with a clear mind. It can be hard given the situation you are in from what I read earlier
If you having a working thermistor maybe you can swap to that for the time being?
Just so you can get your printer running
I can but I'm just too drained and depressed to do anything rn
I got university stuff to work on
Ah yeah it’s important to focus on school. In hindsight only I miss college / university lol but not really with the homework, labs, and studying
Yeah I was rushing this cause ideally I need to print stuff at home
It's so infuriating that I can fix and repair the mechanical systems
But get stopped at just cables
It is but the correct search terms can be difficult if you don’t know what to search for. Typically i put in crimping quality guidelines or QA crimping but my google search results are aggregated to me most likely and i used to work in the custom manufacturing of cable assemblies and electronic boxes soooo its bias im sure lol
I see it's it's like idk I feel like I'm physically handicapped in pursuing this imo lol
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