overhanging angles have terrible quality

[chilly token]

Angles that do not need supports but are still steep have terrible quality. I'm not sure what to do; it looks all blobby and messy. If the angle is closer to straight up, the quality is better, but still not great. Is it fixable?

[slim jasper]

AI Help

It sounds like you may be experiencing issues with overhangs and bridging. To improve the quality of steep angles without supports, you can try adjusting your slicing settings. Consider increasing the cooling to prevent overheating and use a slower print speed to allow each layer more time to solidify. Additionally, reducing the layer height can help achieve better detail on steep angles. Experiment with these settings to see if it improves the print quality.

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.

[chilly token]

PLA
Ender 3
Prusa slicer

[wispy gust]

Excessive overhangs mean that the printer is mostly printing over nothing, so excess nozzle pressure leads the filament blobbing up in some places, mainly corners

[slim jasper]

Pressure Advance and Linear Advance describe the same functionality

Pressure Advance for Klipper

Linear Advance for Marlin

?linearadvance requested by: kolman2000#0

[wispy gust]

Would suggest looking into this

[wispy gust]

Which ender 3?

[chilly token]

original

with mods

[wispy gust]

So then it’s on Marlin firmware

Unless you swapped it to klipper

[chilly token]

not to my knowledge, unless the silent board upgrade did that

[wispy gust]

Nah so you’re still on Marlin

Look into linear advance

It helps solve issues with corner bulge and seams

Essentially it makes the extruder vary in speed based on the current speed of the print head

Rather than just being constant for a full move

[chilly token]

is there something i can copy and paste into the slicer and firmware? i really dont know what im working with.

or is there youtube tutorials?

[wispy gust]

https://youtu.be/n3yK0lJ8TWM?si=w3ljhU_Jxogq3wtY

There’s test prints you can use

What slicer are you using @chilly token

[chilly token]

Prusa slicer

[wispy gust]

Oh right

You said that

@chilly token https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html

This is a calibration test generator you can use

It generates outside of your slicer to provide more accurate values that aren’t interfered with by any settings you may have changed in slicer

[chilly token]

alr, thanks!

[wispy gust]

Do you by chance have a picture of your issue in question

Just to make sure that will actually solve your issues

[chilly token]

yeah, one sec

@wispy gust

this was a print made at an angle to make it stronger

[wispy gust]

Hooo boy that looks like a whole bunch of other issues

[chilly token]

great 💀 😆

[wispy gust]

White filament makes it a lot harder to tell though

[chilly token]

this was my first print using Prusa slicer

[wispy gust]

So two things, it looks like your belts might not be properly tensioned since your print looks very wobbly

But I would suggest printing something else more basic

And not trying to reorient and stuff

To make it more clear what the issues are

[chilly token]

Here's a better pic

[wispy gust]

Okay yeah it looks very wobbly

One second

https://youtu.be/sPAs-DzgOWM?si=97lzUJT-LgQtaNxg

[chilly token]

which belts do i tension?

[wispy gust]

Make sure your belts are properly tensioned

Both of them

They’re both related to motion

One is for X axis one is for Y

But I think your issues likely aren’t coming from the swap to Prusa slicer

But rather something mechanical or tuning based

[chilly token]

yeah, im just new to the settings also, so some might be wrong

[wispy gust]

Stock profiles should work fine to produce reasonable quality parts

Definitely shouldn’t look like that

[chilly token]

okay😆

[wispy gust]

Very inconsistent layers is a sign of slack in the motion system

Leading to imprecise moves

Note how your layers are never lined up on the edge

[chilly token]

yeah, its weird tho bc some prints come out good and some just look like crap

[wispy gust]

It can be compounding issues that only appear when certain things are happening

We all deal with it

Where things print great one second until the one flaw in your printer gets exploited

And you question what you just did wrong not noticing it’s just something that’s always been wrong but not noticeable

[chilly token]

i probably have more than one thing wrong tho😂

[wispy gust]

Using an ender 3 is like that

My first printer was a V2

Lots of the same troubles. But really most of those troubles just come from them not being well set up from the start

Not that they’re especially flawed machines inherently

[chilly token]

yeah, i love mine. it just freaks out every once in a while

[wispy gust]

Feel free to pass me a ping once you’ve done a bit more tests

https://www.printables.com/model/399048-xo-z-wobble-test

Suggest something like this

To make sure your layers are stacking properly

Once you’ve tensioned belts

Linear advance isn’t your main concern right now

[chilly token]

what about the layers that have weird open bits?

[wispy gust]

That can be down to extrusion issues potentially, how fast are you printing?

Velocity and Accelerations

[chilly token]

im not sure, its all set to 0/default

[chilly token]

also is it okay if i DM you tomorrow after i do some test prints?

i gotta go to bed

[wispy gust]

Can just keep it in here so the info is in one space

But that's all good

I didn't mean had to be now

Just when you get a chance

[chilly token]

okay, sounds good👍

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

My print won't stick to the bed😭

[slim jasper]

Cleaning Your 3D Printer Bed

While IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) may dissolve the oily compounds built up on your bed, it mostly just spreads those oils around. For a more permanent solution use a degreasing agent such as dish soap and water (unscented, as those sometimes have chemicals that make the bed adhesion worse) under warm water, scrub the entire plate taking care to push the soap into all the cracks (if your bed is textured). Dry with a lint free cloth or leave to air dry. You can then put the build surface back on to your printer. If you like you can use the isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed intermittently between prints, but please note it still wont remove any of the oily compounds.

If you are still experiencing adhesion issues it may be z offset, speeds or temperatures. You may also find more success in using adhesion boosters such as hairspray, glue-stick, or specially formulated adhesives for 3d printing. Happy printing!

?bedcleaning requested by: kolman2000#0

Z-offset

Where your printer thinks the nozzle is

The z-offset is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the trigger point of a bed sensor.

Setting your z-offset correctly ensures a good first layer squish and proper adhesion to the build plate (assuming its clean, see
?bedcleaning for more information). See
?leveling for a good representation of how the first layer should look like.
If in doubt: Refer to you your specific machines documentation.

For the Qidi X series printers: Adjusting the z offset from the Fluidd webinterface breaks it. Always set the z offset from the printers screen.

https://www.wevolver.com/article/z-offset-what-it-is-and-how-to-adjust-it

?z-offset requested by: kolman2000#0

[chilly token]

I even washed it with dish soap

[wispy gust]

Make sure your z-offset is properly set

[chilly token]

It is

[wispy gust]

Okay well then are you sure your bed is properly leveled and the screws underneath haven’t gone loose?

Make sure when you’re leveling your bed that you compress the springs a reasonable amount so that the leveling knobs are less likely to come loose during printing

[chilly token]

It's all leveled

[wispy gust]

Okay well I’m gonna have to say the bad thing and say that something is apparently not done right or else the print would be sticking

Like unless there’s something in your print settings interfering with it

[chilly token]

I might need to clean the nozzle, but idk

[wispy gust]

That’s always a good thing to do

Or else the filament will stick more to the nozzle than the bed

And pull it up off the bed as it’s laying the first layer

[chilly token]

That seems like what's happening

[wispy gust]

So then yeah grab a rag or paper towel and a bit of isopropyl alcohol if you have it

And just heat the nozzle to 200C and wipe off any filament and gunk on the nozzle

[tired nova]

I have seen a diagonal pattern like that on machines where their printhead or items in the printhead are not straight....

Generally it more noticeable in the other cases.....but it's another thing to add to the checklist if you've recently changed something in that area....

If none of the other solutions fix it that is... 😅

[chilly token]

I'm about to start a Google doc of all the things wrong with my printer 💀

[tired nova]

Ahh 😅
Just check these for half of them...

[slim jasper]

Ellis' Print tuning guide
Follow this guide for easy print tuning
Guide

?tuning requested by: wolfesbluebox#0

[tired nova]

Once you've fixed it...you'll forgot half the issues you ever had.. 😅

[chilly token]

I always get all of my problems at once 😭

I also have terrible layer adhesion on my last print, i can literally peel it apart

Here are better pictures of what's happening

[tired nova]

Umm
Ummmm
Wow..
What does that look like when sliced?
Random seams or wet filament for the pockmarks?

[chilly token]

im using a different slicer from that print, but I've gotten the same problems still. its not wet, i live in the desert so very low humidity

ight, i did a bunch of crap and i think i fixed bed adhesion. I unclogged it, i cleaned the nozzle and i switched the filament. now the print seems to be going good

[tired nova]

Oo ok... But have your dried it....? Even if thats leaving it out under a black carboard with holes in it for a while... On the concrete... With a thermometer on a summer day....
If u can get the inside to reach a steady 65 degrees celcius... It might be a viable drying method...

[chilly token]

it just seems too consistant to be wet filament

[tired nova]

It's not just wet filament.
And if u have random seams turned on you get pockmarks sometimes too.

[tired nova]

Idk what happened there though...
That is something else, maybe mechanical

[chilly token]

thats what im talking about. and i didnt have random seams on for this print

@wispy gust i was able to get the wobble test print to actually work, but so far it still looks just as bad after tightening the belts

[chilly token]

@wispy gust HELP!

[wispy gust]

dang

Dry your filament

?beddrying

[slim jasper]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WC3jvuq-uq8
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/667463307963138058/1285333276504096818/Screenshot_2024-09-16_at_4.08.38_PM.png

[wispy gust]

Dry filament shouldn't string that much

[chilly token]

its got those same holes too

[wispy gust]

Yeah that's also a possible issue of wet filament

[chilly token]

but ambiant humidity is like 15% 😭

im in desert

[wispy gust]

Doesn't mean the filament didn't come wet from factory

[slim jasper]

** Wet Filament**
Filaments can be “wet” from time to time and this includes some of the most popular filaments such as PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA and TPU. Because of the hygroscopic nature of these polymers, they absorb water from the air and become “wet”. This can manifest in your prints as blobs and signs of underextrusion, because small bubbles of water vapor get trapped in the plastic as you extrude.

Another common problem due to filament being wet is stringing and, when extremely wet, structurally compromised prints. PETG, Nylon and TPU are examples of extremely hygroscopic filaments (they absorb moisture really quickly), whereas the most common filaments like PLA and ABS are only mildly hygroscopic.

❗Keep in mind, even if your filament is fresh out of the packaging, manufacturers often use water baths to cool filament in the extrusion process so it might be wet from factory. ❗

?wetfilament requested by: kolman2000#0

[chilly token]

but ive had it for a while

[wispy gust]

Filament doesn't passively dry just cause the air around it is dry

Once it's absorbed it stays in there

Unless the filament is heated

[chilly token]

oh😭

it has terrible layer adhesion also

[wispy gust]

Also an issue of wet filament

Wet filament causes bad mechanical properties, bad adhesion, stringing, bubbles

A whole laundry list of issues

[chilly token]

thats probably the issue then

[wispy gust]

Use that guide for drying it on your bed, and if you have a kitchen scale you can weigh it in 1-2 hour increments

if it stops getting lighter that means it's dry

It will lose probably several grams of moisture depending on how much filament you have

if you don't have a scale then just dry it for the suggested time as per the instructions

Make sure for the box that you cover any larger holes

All you need is a singular hole the size of a pencil

[chilly token]

alr, ill try it

thanks

[tired nova]

Also... Needs a little ventilation through the bottom.
We are removing moisture from the box using convection...

[wispy gust]

Just needs a singular pencil hole

Top is optimal

Since warm air naturally goes up

And will carry the moisture out with it

[chilly token]

yeah, i got a slight gap in the bottom and a small hole in the top

i got bed temp to 65c, is that good?

The box of destiny! I hope it works

[tired nova]

Flip the spool 180 degree after 6 hours btw...

[tired nova]

Also....if the video says 9 holes in the top of the box.....?

Do u mean one hole at the bottom or?

[wispy gust]

I mean a singular hole in the top

Excessive holes means it doesn't keep heat in

You only need a single hole

[tired nova]

Ok...
Does the video recommend excessive amount of holes?

[wispy gust]

Not really, just not entirely necessary

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

I dried the Filament and it didn't lose any weight

[chilly token]

@wispy gust

[wispy gust]

Weighing in grams?

[chilly token]

Yes

[wispy gust]

Well, try printing the same file with it and see if it gets better

[chilly token]

Okay 👍

[wispy gust]

If it improves then that’s a step in the right direction

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

It doesn't look any better

Help pls😭

@wispy gust wtf is wrong 😭 it's not humidity, could it be flow/retraction settings?

[wispy gust]

I mean your retraction is probably also screwy

[slim jasper]

Calibration
Calibration and tuning can help with all aspects of print quality.
Extruder calibration should be done only once, and then again if you change any hardware on your extruder setup (new tube, gear drive, different motor, etc).
Flow calculation should be done for every filament, even different colours from the same brand.

A number of calibration and tuning guides exist online:

• Teaching Tech
• Michael Hackney Extruder Calibration
• Toms Extruder Calibration
• Toms Calibration Guide
• Matts Hub Extruder Calibration
• Tolerance Calibration
• Andrew Ellis' Print Tuning Guide

?calibration requested by: kolman2000#0

[wispy gust]

Go on the Teaching Tech site and use the Retraction Test generator

[chilly token]

But how do I fix the holes?

[wispy gust]

It’s seeming like an extrusion issue mostly

Have you made sure your nozzle isn’t clogged?

[chilly token]

Yes, I just declogged it yesterday to make sure

Could it be flow?

[wispy gust]

What temp are you printing at

And what material?

Can’t remember if you said before

[chilly token]

200c PLA

[wispy gust]

Bump that up

215 or so

And then tune retraction

Dry PLA doesn’t string if you tune retractions properly

[chilly token]

If I do that I seem to have heat creep problems

It jams bc the very end gets thicker and gets stuck in the hotend

[wispy gust]

This is why I don’t recommend old Enders cause like if they aren’t set up properly they’re a nightmare to diagnose

[chilly token]

I've noticed 😭

[wispy gust]

Just do the retraction tests and see if you can get by at like 210C

And quick question regarding the stringing

Are you using Z-hop

[chilly token]

I don't think so

[chilly token]

should i use g-hop?

[wispy gust]

Not unless it’s necessary

And you shouldn’t need it

[chilly token]

for some reason only my black overture filament is clogging at 210, while my white prusa filament is fine. maybe thats part of the quality issue, the black filament might be slightly clogging. ill test that xy wobble print again once i get the stringing straightened out

[chilly token]

im testing the wobble print in the white filament now. ill test it in both filaments to see what the difference is

ill have to do the black at 200c bc otherwise it will jam

[chilly token]

nvm, the white still jams at 210c😭 why does it do this? i just replaced my fan. i will have a all metal hotend in on the 7th so that might help

@wispy gust @tired nova

[tired nova]

the gap?

between the bowden tube and nozzle?

?thegap

[slim jasper]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/339978089411117076/863813291566170123/Hotend101.png

[chilly token]

idk how to check that but im pretty sure its all the way in there

[tired nova]

i think your meant to do it while hot....

also

[slim jasper]

Hottightening the Nozzle

Tighten your nozzle at the highest possible temperature to make sure it fully seals against the heatbreak.
If the nozzle bottoms out against the heatblock, the heatbreak is not installed correctly. Refer to the graphic. Note that the maximum printing temperature is about 20C lower.

If you have a PTFE lined hotend, make sure you have taken care of ?thegap

?hottighten requested by: wolfesbluebox#0

[tired nova]

the nozzle

as both create gaps which can lead to clogs

[chilly token]

okay, ill make sure its tight. but it seems like its happening to a large area when i look at the part that jammed

[tired nova]

photo?

[chilly token]

It seems like I'm stuck bc if I go too hot it gets jammed, but if I go cooler it has awful print quality

[tired nova]

Hmmm
Did we check your fans where working... (Both of them?)

[chilly token]

yeah, i just replaced the main hotend fan and the other one still works fine

[tired nova]

Ok cool...
And that spins on startup?

[chilly token]

yeah

[tired nova]

Ok cool.
Thats not it then.

Coldpulls?

[chilly token]

whats that?

[tired nova]

?coldpull

[slim jasper]

https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

[chilly token]

ill try it thanks

[chilly token]

i couldnt get it to work bc i only had pla, but i just replaced the nozzle and made sure everything else was good. well see if there was a partial clog in that nozzle

[tired nova]

uh.. so same idea just use pla or whatever you have... and cold pulls

the idea is really just to get as much to fuse to the materials you pulling out as possible

[chilly token]

it kept breaking, i couldnt get pla to work

[tired nova]

pla breaking..?

how old is you pla...?
have you dried this recently?

does it break easily..?

[chilly token]

i mean... it said that pla doesnt work well in the article

pla is pretty brittle

[tired nova]

oh..
ok
fair..
what are we going to do abiout it then 😅

[chilly token]

i replaced the nozzle and cleaned everything else

[tired nova]

pla doesn't stick to petg either btw

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

The print keeps failing😭 @wispy gust @tired nova

[wispy gust]

Have you checked made sure your filament isn’t tangled

That looks like it stopped extruding cause it got stuck

[chilly token]

It's not tangled, it just keeps jamming from what I think is heat creep

[wispy gust]

Okay one second

https://youtu.be/30qqKUwviww?si=12achZ--5WbRUS8Z @chilly token

?thegap

[slim jasper]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/339978089411117076/863813291566170123/Hotend101.png

[wispy gust]

This could be your issue

Since we’ve narrowed things down so much

And you shouldn’t be getting heat creep at the temps you’re printing

So it’s about all I can think of that could be causing it

It’s why I hate PTFE hotends

Besides the toxic fumes they can make

[chilly token]

Could I also fix it by getting a direct drive upgrade?

[wispy gust]

There’s nothing wrong with Bowden, it more seems like your issue is with the hotend

[chilly token]

Btw it didn't work, I'm losing my mind😡

[wispy gust]

The fix didn’t work?

[chilly token]

Nope

[wispy gust]

Ugh

either your hotend isn’t extruding properly or the spool is stuck

I know you said before

But seriously make sure your spool isn’t tangled just to be sure

[wispy gust]

?coldpull

[slim jasper]

https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clogged-nozzle-how-to-perform-a-cold-atomic-pull/

[wispy gust]

Might just be a clog then

[chilly token]

I tried that😭

[wispy gust]

Damn

Alright

Are you sure the spool isn’t tangled

[chilly token]

And I switched nozzles

[chilly token]

Yeah

I can unwind it

[wispy gust]

And your PTFE didn’t look like weird or melted on the end that’s touching the nozzle?

[chilly token]

I'll check

[wispy gust]

make sure if you take it out that you properly set it again

[chilly token]

This is what it looks like

[wispy gust]

Clean that up a bit

[chilly token]

Also this is what the Filament looks like every time it jams

[wispy gust]

Also you tried unspooling the filament to see if it was tangled?

[chilly token]

Yes

[wispy gust]

Just trying to exhaust every option before suggesting you replace your hotend

There’s a cheap option that’s also an upgrade

And it’s a drop-in replacement that doesn’t need reconfiguration

[chilly token]

What?

[wispy gust]

You would have to just take some parts off and plug it in the way your current hotend is but that’s up to you if that’s something you want to do or just try to fix what you’ve got

Cause this isn’t making any sense right now why it just keeps fucking up

Are you sure your fan for your hotend cooling is spinning

Not the part fan on the side

But the one on the front

Cause you keep getting heat creep

[chilly token]

Yeah its spinning the whole tine. I just replaced it also

[wispy gust]

Dumb question but did you face it the correct direction. I’m just exhausting options here

[chilly token]

Yeah, it's sucking air in

[chilly token]

What's the upgrade?

[wispy gust]

Retail is about $15
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKnP1YP

It’s considerably better than a stock hotend, has all-metal heat break so you can go over 220C, and doesn’t require any changes to the printer or fan ducts

All you would have to do is change some tuning in your slicer

But like this is a last ditch effort since I’m genuinely exhausted on possibilities for why your printer has starting printing so terribly

[chilly token]

I have something similar coming in on the 7thhttps://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832849555660.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.4956f19csTjRrf&_gl=1i9016l_gcl_awR0NMLjE3MzQ2MzM4MzguQ2p3S0NBaUFnb3E3QmhCeEVpd0FWY1cwTE10NnlMU3J6X1RPMm02VUMwNGJwWjkzUUplZnQ4U2dwZ3FjaEVGand4UlNuMGs1d0NRMzNob0NGZnNRQXZEX0J3RQ.._gcl_auMTE5NzY1ODMyNS4xNzM0NTY2OTY3_gaMjAxNzA5Mjc1NDIzMzAwNy4xNzM0NTY2OTY0Mzk2_ga_VED1YSGNC7*MTczODE5MjU1NS44LjEuMTczODE5MjU5NC4yMS4wLjA.&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[wispy gust]

You already bought that?

[chilly token]

Yeah, it was something recommend a while back

[wispy gust]

By who?

[wispy gust]

I wouldn’t have suggested that hotend tbh but I mean I hope it works. Would require less rewiring I guess

[chilly token]

Would it help at all😆

[wispy gust]

It has an allmetal heatbreak so should at least fix that

[chilly token]

If not I can get the one you recommended

[wispy gust]

But TZ V2 is kinda my budget go-to to recommend

It’s all up to you if you’re even able to cancel your order

It’s been a week now

[chilly token]

But it looks like mine is already all metal right?

[wispy gust]

No

?hotend

[slim jasper]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/339978089411117076/1000836861444493352/HotendDiagram-v3.1.2.png

[wispy gust]

Yours is the one on the right

On an all-metal heatbreak the PTFE doesn’t go through the hotend

[chilly token]

Ahh

[wispy gust]

That’s why PTFE is an issue is it can’t go over 225C

Or else it literally releases toxic fumes

I mean based on your pic it does look like you had leaking issues

But like that’s not anything that’s gonna change

[chilly token]

So is the only difference between the one you recommended and this one the price?

[wispy gust]

No

One has a significantly longer melt zone which allows it to melt more filament

The one I recommended

[slim jasper]

Volumetric Flow

Volumetric flow rate is the way we measure the amount of material that our hotends can melt per second.

Typically we use the unit mm³/s or "cubic millimeters per second".
Pictured below are some typical values of the max achievable volumetric flow rates on commonly used hotends. These values are given as a range because they depend on a variety of other factors such as type of material, extrusion temp, nozzle size and geometry. In practice, achievable volume may differ from these marketing values.

To understand why these values are important and to make use of them you should understand the simplified formula for calculating the volumetric flow rate:

line width [mm] • layer height [mm] • speed [mm/s] = volume [mm³/s]

Further reading: ?morevolume

?volume requested by: kolman2000#0

[chilly token]

What does that help with?

[wispy gust]

Reduces underextrusion when trying to push more filament through the hotend

Since hotends have a limit to how much filament they can reliably melt

More melting power means you can push more filament before it loses quality

[chilly token]

Ahh

[chilly token]

Thanks for all of your help! I'll wait for that new hotend to arrive then see if it helps. If that doesn't work is there any other possibilities?

[wispy gust]

I mean if all else fails it’d potentially come down to a hardware issue like the thermistor not reading properly

[chilly token]

Okay, hopefully this will work out tho

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

The hotend got here early 🔥

Now I just gotta install it

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

Nvm, it still hasn't gotten here

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

Testing the new hotend @wispy gust @tired nova

[wispy gust]

How’s it going so far?

[chilly token]

Still printing!

Quality is a little rough but it seems to be working

[chilly token]

It still has inconsistencies, but it actually printed

[wispy gust]

Those consistent rings on the prints tells me you have an issue with z-banding

[chilly token]

Lemme make sure it's tight

[wispy gust]

The nut for the z-axis lead screw?

That should remain loose

Not loose enough to fall out

But loose enough for it to adjust

[chilly token]

What if the lead screw is wobbly?

[wispy gust]

Video?

"wobbly" is a worrying word

[wispy gust]

That's normal amounts of give in the system meant to compensate for bends or binding

https://youtu.be/qNCDXdjJb90?si=t1Uh_z8QWWYu0OtD

https://youtu.be/hQYHQpxmbNE?si=LLelJ8zEfJF8vZ5f

[chilly token]

Alr, I'll try to fix it tomorrow

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

ima try a PID tune because the temp keeps fluctuating and the other things dont seem to help

[wispy gust]

Randomly fluctuating temps would point to a bad thermistor or that you tightened the holding screw on the thermistor too much

If you tighten the screw holding it in place too much it will crush the wires and cause it to not read properly

The screw should only just be on there enough to hold it in place

[chilly token]

Okay

But it seems more like a issue with PID tuning

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

I loosened the set screw and the temp is still wack

Could it be PID tuning

@wispy gust @tired nova

It will constantly go ±4c

[tired nova]

that's shocking.

• make sure the thermistor plugged in correctly. (and secured properly )
• check the thermistor resistance when the printer is turned off and unplugged from power.
• after you've checked that, then see if pid tuning fixes that. I've never PID tuned, so i reccomend we check with kol.

[wispy gust]

Thats a relatively low fluctuation but if your PID tuning is right that shouldn’t really be happening

But not anything that is out of the ordinary AFAIK

[chilly token]

Then what's causing the uneven layers? I'm pretty sure I tried the common stuff

And the underextrusion

[wispy gust]

Like genuinely at this point I have no clue. You’ve changed multiple factors on the printer and even stock it was having random bullshit issues and I’m totally lost at this point

Old Enders create a litany of issues that honestly are a pain in the ass to diagnose

[chilly token]

Not completely stock

It had a silent motherboard upgrade and the better ptfe tube

But i don't think that would cause those problems

[wispy gust]

No it shouldn’t

Also silent board might as well be stock

Cause all it is is just slightly different steppers that make less noise

It doesn’t affect the actual functionality

Assuming you installed the correct firmware flash

[chilly token]

Yeah, that was fine. Plus all these problems just started happening recently, but I installed that shit a while ago

I guess I'm just screwed

Thank you all for your help tho

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

Now my printer won't start printing it gets up to heat and just sits there. WTF IS GOING ON

@tired nova @wispy gust

Sorry for the ping, but I really need to get this figured out

It's been like this for 10m

I might just get an a1 mini at this point

[tired nova]

That temp is still going all over the place.
At this point, could it be the mobo?
Inconsistent power delivery?

[chilly token]

I was able to get it to start by turning it on and off, but the temp is flipping out. I still haven't tried the PID tuning, but I don't know if that would help anything

[olive saffron]

thats why the PID exists, to estimate how much power to give the hotend to not overshoot like that

[slim jasper]

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[wispy gust]

Honest question, but you’re doing the PID tune… are you actually saving it to config and all?

PID tune just gives you some numbers

You have to actually save it if you haven’t

[chilly token]

I haven't done it, I was going to follow a video tutorial tho. But i need to get a cord that will actually connect my pc and printer

[wispy gust]

So you haven’t actually done the fix then?

You kept saying you PID tuned and it was still having issues

Now you’re saying you never did it

[chilly token]

I thought I had made it clear that I hadn't done it yet😆 that's mb

I thought you had said that the temp fluctuating wasn't that bad, so I put the PID tune off

[wispy gust]

That’s… not how that works…

I said it’s not out of the ordinary without a PID

If that was WITH a PID then that’s an issue

But it was fluctuating in a Sin wave which is what the PID corrects for

[chilly token]

Ahhh...

Would that fluctuating temp cause problems tho?

[wispy gust]

https://www.eurotherm.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/PID-Control-fig1-fig2.jpg

This is what happens when you don’t have PID

Which reflects what your issue was

So you need to have PID

Which SHOULD be on by default

[chilly token]

Ok ok... I misunderstood

I'll get a cord that works

Something makes me think that this isn't what my infill is supposed to look like

[wispy gust]

No cause that’s either a clog or underextrusion caused by your thermal issues

[chilly token]

It's probably bc of the thermal issues then

[slim jasper]

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[chilly token]

Alr guys, I updated my firmware bc I realized that it was very old, and now I'm doing the PID tune 🤞

Is it okay that it's still going up and down but just 1 degree?

[olive saffron]

for the first bit its not bad, if it keps doing it then its a problem

[chilly token]

Ima test and see if works now

[chilly token]

when i try to start the print it just sits there

nothing happens, it heats up but doesnt do anything

What do i do? @olive saffron @wispy gust

[olive saffron]

new firmware? if you try to heat manualy what happens?

[chilly token]

yeah, just got the new firmware. if i heat it up without hitting print, it does fine, but when i hit print it doesnt move. it says that its getting ready to print but nothing happens. this was going on just before but i could fix it by turning the printer on and off and using the power outage function. but now it doesnt do anything

[olive saffron]

you slicer start gcode been checked?

[chilly token]

it worked before

[olive saffron]

start from nothring, new firmware overwrite esteps at least, function test everything, im stiull not sure what the original issue was but it wating on heating is either bad firmware, bad wiring, or bad gcode

[chilly token]

If I try to just auto home this pops up, then if I restart the printer and try again it still happens

Seems like a motion problem

All the wiring looks fine

WTF is going on!!!

[chilly token]

Is it firmware then? I got it from creality

[olive saffron]

right printer, right board chip? i think there are now 15+ ender 3s, and at least 5 boards

[chilly token]

i think so, how do i check that? it was the right printer for sure

[olive saffron]

original ender has a v1 board, then there are some with 4.2.2 or unlikely a 4.2.7, then check the lagest chip on the board for a GT at the start

[chilly token]

i did upgrade to silent motherboard

[olive saffron]

then likely a 4.2.7 board then, but check it to confirm, should be white text on it saying its 4.2.7

[chilly token]

Yup, I think I installed 4.2.2 firmware

That's probably the issue

So would I install this firmware?

[chilly token]

This one

?

[olive saffron]

probably yeah

[chilly token]

Alr

[chilly token]

HOLY FK IT WORKED!!!! now we just gotta see if the uneven layers and underextrusion have been fixed by the PID tune