#KevEnder
1 messages · Page 5 of 1
ofc
The guy I got my hotend from is experimenting with some internal geometry 3d printed nozzles
Not cheap but they are good
I should cnc a hotend that uses these
Why not?
imagine the longass tap you need for that
rough
Hmmm my m6 hand tap may be close
But hand tapping a 3 inch hole is 😭
one sus thing that ill be doing is using a 12v heater at 24v tho
He polishes and threads them after
should be fine if I limit it in klipper so that it's only 150w or something
Hence the price being 25 dollars
Why?
the supervolcano block comes with one
Tru
still gonna be 320W
that's gonna melt for sure if it runs away
I could put in a fuse, but still not super ideal
On this hotend you have enough room for a thermal fuse finding a 550ºC fuse though
Brass so 350 would suffice and I can also put it on the heatsink not the block and use a lower temp fuse
A fuse fuse could cut power if it were to ever runaway and do more than the duty cycle limit
I can't find supervolcano carts
Or is 80w really enough?
People ran that in the past to reach 100mm³/s
Also if I do make this, I'll probably have to cover the arms with a sock and IDK how good that would be for it
Get a draftshield printed
I'll run some shitty sims to see how arm length affects the rigidity
Good idea
I can also probably just use a sock on the lower part only too
And boom we are back at chube looking designs
How is this chube looking in any way
Add a draftshield
Its just what it is, there are only a few efficent designs for certain applications
Tbf, draft shield has been around for much longer than chube
Alright. I'll just get the 80w 24v and pray that it's enough then
Yea, but its the one with the most pronounced one
yeah a shield is what I'd do, make it dual shear by supporting the bottom to the ducts like monolith
Worst case run it at 48v
True, I could switch to 48v on my main printer
Then I'll be able to run leadshines
Looks like I've got a lot of CAD work to do
Why don't people use these again?
Just leave it outside
And I've never had to actively cool a laptop charger before either
And motors don't really pull that much power
don't forget the supervolc block is really heavy
I wanted to replace it because it's basically not usable without bottom support
you can shave off the sides and therm port but even then, you'd need to shave a lot off
chubeify it
100g for the hotend alone is.... not great
I dont think a lathe is gonna do much here
goddammit. once i add the bottom support it's just gonna be chube

maybe it would be a better idea to make my own block from scratch and use those flat ceramic heaters
at the very least it would be a lot lighter
a lot more expensive as well
honestly not really
the supervolc block is 20 bucks for me
forgot to include the heater in the weight. final weigh in about this much with the lightening
@surreal briar 
I'm giving it 24v and 5v but it keeps shutting off after a second 😭
@coral stone any ideas?
very strange
I never had that
what if you multi it out? does it still gets power?
Multi?
Multimeter
Mm gimme a sec
measure the voltage on the Vin and Pwm after it stops
maybe it's not the fan but whatever it's hooked up to
I wish I was smart enough to understand what this means
is it the voltage dropping because the amps going up for some reason?

no clue honestly
IT WAS A POWER SUPPLY ISSUE THIS WHOLE TIME
plugged it into my meanwell and it's completely fine
Holy fuck this thing BLOWS
Probably the overcurrent protection kicking in
The power supply was 350w tho
Oooooh right
If the draw has a huge inrush current spike it can still trip it
Inrush
It's 15 in US😭
oh, oof
Ooh it went down to 10
still not the worst
About the same here
Oh, nice, $8, thanks
once I bring it the duct it should be pretty close to perfect
I dont run out of power limiting mine to 150w
Hit heat transfer limit first smh
Bro did U see my ver
I vaguely remember
How did you make the belt in onshape?
belt featurescript
oh dang completely forgot about those...huh I'll have to take a look. thanks!

Send Ur hotend to Burgo server lol
Please please please please please please please please please start selling this 🙏
I'd pay triple what it costs to make
KanFlow 🙏
Id probably have to swap out the heatsink for something else bc it's using a Tz v6 heatsink right now and you can't buy those separate but I'm not opposed if you really want one lol
plastic ducts or slm?
and the brace?
PET-CF ducts sound like a pain to anneal
SLM
how worried are you about the brace melting the ducts
Titanium brace 
Not very worried
Oh hey it’s like a more well thought out version of what I came up with
The idea of bracing the end
👀
show
not too bad
at least the ufonator went pretty easily
What temps
110C for like 4 hours after the sand got up to temp
then I redesigned the duct before it even got on the printer 
After looking around all over AliExpress, the cheapest, most viable heatsink for modding came out to be the Goliath heatsink
These also take standard chimera heatbreak
They don't have any meat on the bottom for me to tap into
you can go through multiple fins
I mean tapping from the side
Honestly, maybe I'm better off machining my own heatsink on the lathe
Hmmmmm
Hmmmmmmmmm
I'm surprised the fins don't just deflect
huh
Whoa that's super compact
Huh it's for a beltprinter
It's got extra mounting points on the bottom too. That's pretty nice
Oh wait NVM
That's an adapter plate
Between versions rn
I would be slightly worried about heat creep but it doesn’t seem like it has much issue normally anyways
and?
Heatceeep
not a problem with a good heatbreak
you could even go conduction
or those k1 watercool sinks and just push some air through it
Throwing a titanium heatbreak on there and praying that it's good nuff
I've seen that before! I didn't know they were making a V2 though. Looks nice.
ye, the flow studies are cool on it
Does it fuck up PA?
Na
Ik some people say CHT fucks up PA but I don't see it in my own tests
Got any pics of the nozzle geometry?
The website doesn't show anything
Ill see if I can find
No luck, but imagine a cht without the middle bit
So like a bozzle
So it has little teeth that are closer to the middle of the filament path
Except there is no part that splits the flow
As that is patented
So it doesnt flow as well as a cht or bozzle
But it is also less friction and obstruction
Bozzle doesn't split the flow
So like a middle ground
Oh youre right mhm
Yes essentially a bozzle
But I think the overall filament path is larger
While the teeth go in the same amount
Idk he posted a ton of pics of his products in monikas discord and then he left and all of his stuff got deleted
Ah
Found a very prototype from like a year and a half ago
So basically a bozzle that costs 1/4 the money
Its the reverse cht 
But also not TC
Great price tho
Idk how I feel about the nozzles being SLM tho, and how are they doing the tip insert
Idk if it makes much sense to get those when the triangle labs HS insert CHT volcano is 13 bucks
But I also recognize that I'm just a hater in general about that guy's stuff 
Its a different market, its for real high flow, where resistance matters just as much as heat transfer
It's hard to say tho since I haven't tried one
If you want real high flow just add more melt zone 🤣
And the flow out of the trianglelabs nozzle is pretty real
i hope they get them flow polished, if not you can buy one for each material you print

will help if the orange part doesnt melt
got these peek spacers
could work if the orange part can deal with the heat that gets conducted by the screws
orange part should be fine. probably gonna be PPS-CF
this should be a lot better
have to balance between the brace not being effective and the orange melting
@surreal briar got any ducts you can recommend?
Something that would fit here
Otherwise I'll just do the basic ducts
I've only been using Rocksalts ducts
you could make them fit
but pretty hard with the back hotend support
wdy think
It looks like it's going to cool down the nozzle a ton
If you add some sort of nozzle shield would be fine, but probably should cfd to check
might not look like it but it's aiming right under the nozzle. I might do an SLM convection shield tho
Might be the angle
looks pretty cool
I think i just have to redo this part of the duct
I really dont like how sharp the angle is
best you could do is probably go with sherpa instead
honestly, not really any easier or harder
I did consider that, but it's more of a pain in the ass
slightly better
im just gonna try printing it out and see
interesting
pretty
Renovic's toolhead?
Lol that's my toolhead
I'm redoing the bracing and hotend so the braces are in the xy plane for better rigidity
make that bottom section removable for easier nozzle changes
Yeah I'm also doing that
@surreal briar do you have ufonator with non fucked up geometry?
maybe ill try import it again
ok so it was just onshape throwing a hissy fit
it's fine in fusion
it works after I export it out of fusion and into onshape again 
psst kevin u want my silly motors?
@tawny lark
Oh yeah. And I can return them during rmrrf 
idk if this has been addressed before
but the belt clamp on github doesnt fit due to interfering with the rail carriage (in my case at least)
mostly leaving this here for myself if i ever need to reprint 😂
Are you going?
most likely
have you tried the one in the onshape?
maybe? idk maybe not
Dang, maybe ill have to go
I think its at a time that works well for me
@tawny lark you seen the new sub 1 min benchy?
The vid seems a little suspicious but ye, 54 sec on a 100
Why you cooked? Can still try for sub 1 even if you dont catch up
it is what it is, i do wanna see his gcode tho
I dont wanna do this shit anymore 😭 I just wanna idex
I do have a theory tho. kinda wanna roll back klipper to last year
idk why im not hitting those same accels anymore and that't the only thing i can think of
On the 2004s?
Or the leadshines, bc the accel on them suck
They just do some crazy speed, like I said i ran a 2000/100k once
Let’s see it
I tried to let the motors run no load and it couldnt do 2000/100k reliably for some reason 
Odd, I will need to get some new gates belts and I can try again, i had to do an emergency repair with some no name and im worried they will snap🤣
I only did a couple tests at that speed bc normally we want high accel high speed but it could be better with that much speed
I had powge belts on mine for the longest time bc i ran out of gates 🤣
Since i dont have endstops I accidentally hit the home x/y button and it breaks the belts
4wd moment
why no endstops?
"Where we go, we need no endstops
"
They break, the 4 steppers dont talk fast enough and it would stop a little too slow every time and slowly smashed the button
so how do you home?
and if you have an arm on the endstop it has a bit of overtravel after it clicks
like i doubt 4wd is so much worse than 2wd that it breaks your endstops
My pet theory is they forgot to put ^ on the end stop pin
SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION
bruh what
Tbh idk why it's broke, but the y switch broke 2 times and each time it would also snap the belts
at that point id just switch back to 2WD drive if you cant even home normally
Same. Only bc I couldn't get sensorless to play ball with 2160
I just put the bed and toolhead at 0 and run the macro, actually much faster than homing
Oh it could have been chamber temps
I do feel like it only started having issues after I started heating it
Yea sensorless almost works with 2wd and high amps, 4wd i could only get working on 1 sensitivity and it worked half the time, got mad and gave up
Might wanna slow down homing speed?
Well, then use endstops with overtravel
I'm almost done making all the versions
But yeah
Do you have an onshape link/step file for the proxtruder?
Only been able to find it without gears
yes actually
oh yeah. that file doesnt have gears
cant be arsed to assemble and there's 4 different versions
which each version having 4 different coupler types
Yeah I know
Did you add the gears yourself or?
here's the one in that screenshot if you want
Thanks!
Also for the materials for the COM, did you like assign materials individually for each part of the extruder or just 39 g or whatever the protoxtruder weighs to the whole thing?
individually
didnt take very long
there's like, 4 different materials
i did define a custom material I called motor tho
for the stepper
Hmm ok. I'll have to see what exactly each part weighs then...I'll figure it out. This is the protoxdruder 2.0, right?
idk the versions. it's my modified version
Modified? What was there even left to modify lol
the stock bearings are shit
it will wear down on you in a month
itll still print afterwards, but itll also have horrible backlash
i swapped it in with a larger bearing and it's been going strong for the past year or so
Thought nhchiu said something about better ball bearings in the 2.0
Do you have the HGX or HGX 2.0?
Really? Huh good to know.
2.0 swaps in those same tiny bearings that like to break instead of the needle bearings
but yeah. most important thing is large bearings on the reduction gear
So what hardware are you using for your modified version then?
Wouldn't it just be easier to go with a Sherpa mini?
683 instead of mr63
genuine bmg gears are expensive, clone bmg gears are a shitshow
Yeah fair
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world.
here's the onshape with all the modified versions
Nice!
There’s still a bit of room for improvement. The chimney is a mess, and at the upper section of the boat’s cabin the part cooling wasn’t strong enough to cool the filament properly. But overall, I’m really happy with how this turned out. Big thanks to my Patreons who have supported me on this long journey for over three years. You’re t...
what the hell
is he running fuckall tension now?
he’s speeding up videos apparently
no reason to no?
it doesn't sound normal
The skepticism I have mainly comes down to the sheer amount of plastic you have to push to get that extrusion and that single direct extruder being questionable for the job
And secondly whether that hotend can actually melt all of the plastic
he’s using pre heated 2.85 pla
afaik
pre heating is BS. same thing as printing out of a dryer
that’s what he’s doing
Supposedly
supposedly
not that it's a bad thing, just doesnt make it appreciably easier to melt the filament
yeah
not with PLA anyways
but also the hotend is fucking massive
is it tho?
i mean
looks around supervolcano length
I mean has anybody looked at it frame by frame to tell if there’s added or missing frames. Cause like it’s uploaded at 60FPS so you could easily just look at every frame
supervolcano can do ~100 cubic
preheating is a thing, but for other reasons. usually done on stuff with a high amount of fiber filling so it not crumbles inside the reverse bowden tube
for the printing stuff, it probably cools down enough on its way to the extruder to not see a large effect of preheating, considering the length of the tube he runs
he’s doing double that
afaik it's almost confirmed to be sped up
somehow
I mean I’m not surprised but just didn’t know if anybody had done that method to come to that conclusion
no need to look frame by frame
yeah ive seen some crazy nerds doing audio analysis and whatnot
I mean I just wonder what it takes to be somebody that already gets criticized pretty regularly to then come around and say things like “I learned my lesson about snapped shafts” while being heavily investigated for a possible fake record
the sound of the cpap spooling up and down is oddly fast, the clock timer should update every 2 frames yet it updates every frame, the audio seems to be tampered with, etc
Is the timer supposed to operate at 30hz?
yeah
Ah damn
we might also be able to measure how fast the things in the video drop back down when they jolt if they jolt hard enough
If it got enough vertical movement you could find gravity yeah 
s=1/2at^2
unless he makes another video i think it's pretty safe to say that it is sus
I think that something for validation should be like having something moving in the background to validate that it’s in real time. What that thing would be I’m not sure
the timer thing is pretty damning evidence
analog clock
much harder to trick that
or casio watch or something
Wouldn’t be hard to swap a single gear out to cut it in half
mmm true
We do in fact have printers
pendulum clock
That can print gears
lmao
u could go to saturn or smth
Having the camera move in some way is also really hard to fake
hourglass
yeah
atomic clock 🤣
we know how sandy sand is
I mean I could easily just use a 30 second glass and call it a minute glass
That exists
it would fall fast
Or vice versa
you stream it
pre recorded
Show a video feed of the audio being recording in frame lol
ill be happy if he does another video with a grandfather clock in the background 🤣
why do stupid ppl need to fuck everything up
not on 0.4
mandatory chat interaction
Put some random animal in view of the camera
They are a form of randomness
And movements will look odd if sped up
Just another dumb idea lol
get a homeless cat off the street
don't wanna witch hunt but idk, the cpap, stepper sounds, suspiciously obstructed system clock makes it all very weird
man, this whole incident just leaves a very bad taste in my mouth
the competition is supposed to be good fun
in good spirits
typical T250 fashion
Well since the concept of records have existed people have had a desire to take them even through illegitimate means
oh yeah I didnt even notice the obstructed system clock
Yeah that would be pretty damning if it flipped over an additional minute
You wouldn’t be able to stop it from doing that with how long the video is
But yeah I don’t enjoy having to scrutinize these things. Stuff like them never showing their hands in the video
Hiding stuff seemingly intentionally
If they showed their hands to press the space bar to pause or something that would have at least been something
also, proof by just look at it 
Yeah like there’s no way a machine moving that insanely fast is shaking that little
Unless that thing is bolted to the damn table
cool toolhead tho. very lightweight
It also wouldn’t have been hard for him to export the video in 30FPS then the timer would have at least been less obvious unless there was a desync
i think the one i made for hypercam ended up being ~400g
I just miss records like Monika’s where there’s just so much stuff happening in the video that it would be impossible to fake
The camera is moving everywhere, it’s being timed with a freaking steam deck, there’s stuff happening that just makes it so clear that it’s real
iirc on mine the filament was getting tangled and I had to move in to adjust it midway
i’m trying not too be biased but it just doesn’t look natural
Well that’s the first obvious point of suspicion is “how do you make it twice as fast as anything from before Roetz or even anything you’d done previously and make it look THAT effortless”
when the video first came out it LOOKED very suspect but I really didnt wanna start pointing fingers
but with the new evidence....
Yeah I sided with it being legitimate
Cause I felt like there was enough shown and stuff like frame-by-frame being possible
But now people with far more willingness to poke and prod at people on the internet have brought things to light
And I’m still willing to say innocent till proven guilty
welcome to humanity, once something gets competitive some people try everything to be ontop
On a quartz watch? These things are tiny, can't be printed, commonly aren't even standardized, you can't even separate the gear from the shaft in many cases. Would be easier to mod electrically than mechanically, I feel
Just change the counterweight mass
Isn't it only dependant on the length of the string
yeah you would need to change the length of the pendulum which would be pretty noticable
Or the gravity of the room 🤣
if it has more or less mass the rest of the mechanism that is tuned to it will work slightly faster or slower depending on how much weight is altered
Sorry
I meant like in response to just like putting a cheap analog clock in the background
Yeah a proper analog watch would be a different situation
I'm not talking about a proper analog watch, just a cheap quartz wristwatch
@tawny lark One of the guys I met in Matts server while we were shitting on his printer said you should repack your extruder for more rigidity. Not sure if that makes any sense, but I hope that helps.
I know what they're talking about and I don't need the repack
It's already rigid enough as-is with the third bolt mounting
I also know how to do it if I want to
But thanks
I already invited him 😭
Hello Kevin
Hi hank
What toolhead are we even talking about here
Bc there's my main printer that I use daily and theres the BSO one
Random prototype picture that was posted somewhere
COM actually fairly decent
I didn’t want to come in here to pick on you or anything
Nonono
I absolutely welcome the discussion
Kevins chill
That is still pretty far off ideal
Yeah, my rod one is much better
With the gantry setup you have you will want the com .7mm in front of the bearing contact
If I want the com on this one to be better I've basically gotta lower the hotend or increase the mass of the hotend, which is gonna eat up more of my build volume
It's a compromise
It mostly has to be moved farther back. You aren’t that far away in z
I don't think it matters much in Y
It matters a lot more in Z
I have not done much outside of corexy
Yep. Bedslinger is different
Y matters a lot more on a corexy machine
Are you going to do rods on your ender 3?
Nah. That's a toolhead I made for a sovol
It's fkn beautiful
The COM is right where the belt is pulling
It's a bit off in Y but Y matters a lot less here
Especially on the rod printer with lm10luu bearings
Bedslingers are a lot simpler
For corexy rods id definitely stagger the rods
Makes it a lot easier to get good com
Have you taken a look at other toolheads that run supervolcano sized hotends?
For corexy or bedslingers
I haven't seen many rod based toolheads in general tbh
Just for corexy. I am out of the loop for bedslinger stuff
Oh not for rods
Rods are old school
Honestly, I'm just out of the loop in general 
I've seen a couple here and there yeah
Longass hotends make it a lot easier to design toolheads
Dk’s toolhead, monolith and renovic’s toolhead are all using supervolcano length integrated hotends to name a few
For direct drive the extruder is so heavy that you gotta find a way to offset that somehow
Yeah
Having a long hot end helps a ton
Yeah I've seen those
They're nice
I run chube on most of my nicer toolheads
Dunno how I feel about SLM blocks tho 
Yeah i am not a fan unless you are shelling out the money for a copper slm block with custom preheat pockets
A copper block is expensive though because of the refractive index
Steel takes too long to heat soak and aluminum is just a waste
I've thought about moving where the belt connects to the toolhead from under the extrusion to the front, kinda like how a corexy does it
Would have the belts pulling more directly on the com
Yeah I don’t know how a lot of the bedslinger stuff works. I have been all corexy since 2020
I also don't know how other bedslinger people do it either bc the only other person I really talk to that does this kind of stuff is LH of lh stinger fame
Yeah the lh stinger is really cool
It's kinda funny how often I make things and it turns out I just did what the stinger does but in a worse way
Bedslingers are cheap and easy to modify to go fast because of the belt paths. I don’t see a ton of people taking it seriously though
That machine is so well thought out it's amazing
I would like to build an awd stinger at some point but i am afraid I would never use it
I don’t print a whole lot of pla and if i do it is going to be something huge
Yeah.... I just yolo things open air 😭
I'm building a high temp but that thing is still waiting for parts
What temp? 160?
140 without bellows will be interesting. You will definitely need heatbrake water cooling
Eeeh I have an idea for cross gantry no bellows high temp but thats for another time
Oh yeah. Watercooled hotends
Idex?
Got these things
What are you doing for linear bearings and everything at 140c?
It's nice bc I don't have to do a z adjustment thing
That is convenient
Brass-graphite bearings and disposable flanged bearing stack idlers for now
I assume motors are outside of the chamber
I'll replace em with high temp bearings when I've solidified everything, but RN I'm still in the prototyping phase
Motor inside but watercooled
It's a very scuffed build
This will be a very weird setup
Im working out of the corpse of a qidi xplus3
What will you be doing for the frame?
Nothing. I'm stuffing the sides with ceramic wool insulation and keeping the frame
Sanchez did that and took it to 160 no problem
Dual markforged with y assist?
Yeah
I have never seen anyone do a build with this style
It's a scuffed super budget high temp build. Gonna be fun when it gets up n running
I want to eventually do a 220c build but it isn’t really worth it because we run 200c machines all day at work and i can always ask the printer guys to print something for me
Sadly we don’t really run aluminum in our slm printers so slm prototypes will continue to be not very cheap
It will definitely be cool to see
I think so far I'm down ~700 on this build
I don’t see many budget high temp printers that are not perpetually broken
You are better than me lol. I have a problem with scope creep. The glass on my toolchanger that i am building was nearly triple that
I can't really scope creep much bc I'm broke as hell 
You are still doing better than matt’s printer lol
When I do scope creep, I always end up having to scrap it and scale back
Don't think I've shown u yet but this is the high speed one
Built out of shit I have lying around
I am getting old and i am starting to struggle with moving stuff now that i am stuck with a cane. Right now i need to mill my side panels but they are 50kg each and i am struggling to get them in my truck and unload them at work to get milled
Looks pretty similar to the stinger
Stole the tensioner and back aux fan from the stinger
Otherwise it's essentially the sock ender 3 setup but AWD
And rails
Basically a mini stinger with a different toolhead and a lot of other mods
What is the plan for the world record hotend? You might be able to beat roetz if he keeps tinkering with his printer
Lancer long bc that's the longest functioning hotend that I have right now
I don’t see minuteman being beatable once he has settings dialed though
No way in hell yeah
I'm planning to just let it underextrude 😅
Too bad they doubled the price of the lancer long. I wanted to use it for my budget ender 5 that i was trying to keep under 100$
I don't really wanna put much money in this printer bc I'm not really that invested in the project anyways
Lancer long is pretty bad anyways
You should do this
Is that supervolcano with a dragon heatsink?
Goliath heatsink but yeah
Looks similar to how luke is doing pika
I have a bunch of random hotends laying around but i like to keep the theoretical budget of the ender at under 100 in mods
It kinda looks like if a chube fucked a v9.2
I have a lot of chubes
Honestly, id just use whatever hotend you have or a Tz v6
I'm currently running a Tz v6 right now
It's great
Yeah i have a tz v6 right now
It is working
I want the ability to run a bigger nozzle though (who am i kidding i used this ender like twice)
With doubled up heaters and a melt zone extender, here's the flow I'm getting out of it
You can use any old v6 nozzle with it btw
It just extends down 2mm more
Oh lol I thought it was fin size for some reason
I guess it is called tzv6 for a reason
What was the layer adhesion like though?
I've never had any issues with layer adhesion but idk how I'd quantify it
I could setup an izod rig pretty easily....
Mpa of layer adhesion but it is easier to just test by printing out a bunch of tabs and manually snapping them
How would I measure that
I have a UTM in my garage
Damn. Nice
A utm or whatever the contraptions that the youtubers use
I am slowly accumulating a lot of random crap
Idk the diy utm stuff looked really cheap
But yeah, I could setup an Izod impact strength thing
That would work
I'll look into it
It would be nice to have something to test how well the high temp printer is doing and compare materials
A utm and Izod setup would be sweet
Yeah
I need to make an ISO 75 hdt tester
I have 2 vacuum ovens now so I can free up a bit of oven space
I saw scarecrow was making one
Nice
should be under $100 in additional parts to make something like this....
I already got extrusion, motor, and driver
After reading the standards UTMs have to follow, I'm scared 
@distant relic have you seen the qidi thats printing tpi
are hardware store threaded rods anywhere in that standard
I mean, the load cell won't hit the spec. But at least you don't have elongation measurement at all
But you will hit the spec regarding motion speed uniformity, even with all thread
what about like this
I should probably move this to a new project post
I have not
I doubt it needs to be perfect for this. If all else fails spend a grand or so on a used one
waffle
I wonder if anyone would be willing to trade me some TPI for a 9085
Nice
doing X rn. hope it's at least half as good
absolutely the fuck not
it's the fast one
the small bed
oh
yeah ok that makes more sense
still really nice
WHOOOW IM BACK TO MILLION ACCEL
something about kalico in early january 2025 is different
Proceeds to immediately rip toolhead in half
Guess that's all for tonight
Might design a new supervolcano toolhead
We are so not back
sheared nicely along the layerlines from how it looks
should have added a bolt there to reinforce it
Just bad design
what did you print it out of
time to ask jlc to make it suck less
damn yeah
I'm probably gonna design a supervolcano toolhead for it
Ditch this hotend and toolhead design
thats the cycle of going fast, finding the weak links and fixing them
Tbf, it wouldn't be an issue if it didn't smack the end at mach fuck
like crashing into the endstop?
I printed an end block thingy to stop it from coming off the rails, but yeah
I overdid it and it crashed very hard
considered to move the machine limit away from the endstops?
so it only goes out of bounds for homing?
It doesn't home
It sets kinematic position
thats even more cursed and prone to random stuff breaking
The limits are already away from the end block thingies
I just ran it too hard and it skipped a lot
I forgot to add switches to the cad and 5160 don't like sensorless
5160 do sensorless just fine, did that on my K3 before switching to duet with the 2160s
It's job is to print me a Benchy and get disassembled so I can use the parts for something else
I'm not gonna bother getting it so cooperate
This the speed printer?
Yeah
Bro Ur X axis 😭
It doesn't matter anyway
No I meant
How it literally tore itself apart
The west 3d stuff?
@tawny lark and what kind of flow rate to do run for open air abs?
20
Yes
With no cooling? How?
High layer time
Most of the things I print are fairly flat
Huh, ig I’ll try that. 6 cube gives me a pretty good voron cube
High layer time and going slow on overhangs
What's your overhang speeds?
What’s your layer time?
8 seconds
K, I’ll play with this
And dis and come back
Great, thanks a lot
It’ll be like a 50% time cut on the ducts I’m printing right now.
probably cpap duct
Imagine this: the CPAP tube and cables are attached to a rigid carbon tube which attaches at the top of the printer with another rail that also has its own motor
So that the CPAP duct is rigid but still moves with the print head
It’s a dumb idea but a funny one
@tawny lark can I find the sovol rocksalt duct toolhead anywhere? And was there a ender/stinger belt clamp one ever designed?
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@tawny lark how do you guys enclose your enders?
He doesnt 
Do you enclose your bedslinger?
I've put it in a tent or a cardboard box but I don't have the space for that RN
Kevin do you have an ali link or something for the 683 bearing you said you used on the Protoxtruder?
I got mine from fushi
thanks!
@tawny lark I'm getting a e3v2
Oh shit nice
nice
dYEAH
I was lazy
i was gonna harvest the bearings from the x
cuz you get 6 of em
lol
Yeah, at one point I got 29k rec IS with vwheel and AWD y
But that was over a year ago so idk if it was entirely correct
Still works great though
For x it's mainly toolhead selection is way better with rails
part of me wants to make a mod for the 2040 that turns the extrusion on it's side since the carriage has the mounting holes so you can switch to that already
but is there a point
its probably a bit more stable
the mod will definately make the 2040 y a LOT better
but is there a point in making it in 2026
maybe if I get bored enough
@tawny lark I've got an e3 pro, and i was wondering where i could find the hotend assembly frame you're using
I have a phaetus dragonfly hotend so I want to use that in conjunction with direct extrusion and a linear x rail, but i've yet to find any frames that allow for that
i’d suggest the frank v2 toolhead or u can customise kevin’s toolhead or the LH stinger toolhead (kevin’s toolhead is a customised stinger toolhead)
the frank v2 looks amazing! I'm either going with either an upgraded bowden extruder, or the papilio lite. I'd like to try using the papilio though. Has anyone here had experience with a belt extruder?
Its a fine extruder
Only the 5015 one is stinger
what? frank can do either 5015 and 4010
Not rly
It was built ground up
Then turned into stinger
ah mb
As somebody who cadded the kevender front fan arm
It's just like it's hard to design optimally for 5015
U kinda only have one option
So it covergently evolved into a stinger toolhead
Yes basically
he has other kevender toolheads
that are not at all stinger
the 5015 one is not the only one
mb then
abec-1, right?
uuuuh idk
i think mine were abec-7 but i dont know what the significance is
I think abec-7 has a more precise tolerance while abec-1 is more resistant or something like that
got abec-1, we'll see how it goes
according to some ppl in monolith, most aliexpress sellers just make up abec ratings
i honestly doubt it matters too much bc getting bearings from a reliable source matters more anyway
abec afaik is just the range of deviation from nominal ball size
yeah. I just dont know how that really affects extruder performance
i cant see a way it would yeah, at least if the bearing is within reason
It's internal clearance, runout etc
I always get nsk
did orbiter finally release the twistflow nozzle?
idk why we're all using long hotends like flag poles. People weld with stubby tig torches 1/4" steel with grip on the cup, without getting burnt and with less argon flow than cpap ... this 3d printing designed has reached its limit
last time i built a custom bike frame i was basically gripping on the cup. Water cooled torches tend to stay under 50C while producing and arc 10000c
This arc definitely isn't this hot
long ways from the 240 you use to print your pla at
we're literally adding crutches in fantastically creative ways to stabilize these ever increasing hotends
Yeah, because structural heatbreaks is how you snap a heatbreak, also heat break deflection is a very important factor limiting IS
lmao i've never seen anyone snap a tig torch
with a ceramic spacer you could support directly at the tip
Now compare the mass of the hot bits of the torch and of the hotend. And keep in mind that torches don't have heatbreaks. And they're usually hand operated, not strapped to a gantry
you support the ends of the heater block at the end like the C from a coffee mug
it goes inside a steel tube, separates by the ceramic rings, the steel tube at its top end has the heatsink and extruder
like the tube going through a muffler, it is only supported on the ends by a thin wall, in this case make it ceramic
there is no flag pole effect, its supported at both ends
stresses on the ceramic rings are compressive only, this is the desired mode for ceramics
Got them from Fushi, should be fine then
This is a really stupid take
A ceramic heatbrake should never be supporting anything
@tawny lark What is the peak of bedslingers? I just ordered rails and everything for a 120mm bed slinger with 4012 extrusions
Should the plan be to just copy the stinger?
but smaller bed and beefier motion system+frame
Stormwalker 
what is stormwalker?
I am not well versed in bed slingers
Stormwalker 120 is a V0 sized, high performance 3D printer capable of 140m/s² acceleration. - Ataraxia-Mechanica/Stormwalker-120
oh I can just make this but beefier and with some better motors
I like ataraxia he has good stuff
You should try a chube
Small stubby high heat
haha yea ...
who has the money for that tho
Not good for our shit anyway
We need a stiff light and long hotend
Good point
So like volcano?
I wonder what hot end gets super hot
chube and goliath do up to 500C
goliath more like 350-400
I would not trust mellow cheesium above that
well they claim up to 500C without the sock
on paper and in practice is different
yeah true but since i dont have one, or know anyone that has pushed it that hot, i can only rely on their claims
we have a ton of ht hotends out there now, goliath shouldn't really be mentioned for that, more like for performance
chubes, v9, tricorn, mosq, nitram volcomosq
Tricorn? herd of it but what makes it good and what's a v9?
Wow
Yea would be careful with cheaper hotends and hightemp because using a lower grade alloy is a easy way to get cost down
Goliath is good to about 440 before their nichrome 80 alloy starts degradation.
So basically 500
But realistically under 440
Anything with c18150 and better with a good cartridge heater should be fine to 500c
I don’t exactly agree with the v9’s approach with a steel heatblock but we know that it works from other steel hotends. I have yet to see someone actually using it though
Tricorn is supposed to be an open source hotend that just checks a lot of boxes for the money. Large meltzone, cartridge heaters, somewhat solid mounting interface, good nozzle shielding, c18150 block, ect. Imagine it as an evolution of a mosquito magnum plus with the same mount as a dragon hotend.
Thx
Out of curiosity, why not?
Long heat soak times, more wattage used, less consistent heating, ect. Just the same stuff as dk’s toolhead and monolith. Mostly just really slow to heat soak
More wattage used? How?
And for the heatsoak time, anyone calculated / simulated the transients to compare?
From what I have heard from monolith/dk users it takes around 4x as long to heat and you ideally want a high wattage supervolcano heater because of the higher capacity of steel and lower conductivity.
Volumetric specific heat varies by 6% between copper and steel, that's basically nothing
That doesn’t effect thermal transfer speed much though
Just at full capacity. It isn’t a major difference anyways once everything is heated up
I wonder if it's slower than beds, definitely still faster than a chamber
It is similar to a bed but there is still uneven heating issues unless you add a ton of extra thermal mass
I wonder how measurable these gradients are
Wayne and dk have a bunch of private posts about it
I don’t know if I can share that picture
Huh, what's the heat loss mechanism used here? Just natural (radiation and convection)?
Natural radiation into an 80c chamber
It was only like a 5c variation but it kept giving issues even with huge socks so the stainless heatblocks are on the backburner for now.
I would like to see a simulation and some thermal imaging of the v9
And that's with the nickel coating on it (I think that's what V9 block has)?
That was monolith hotend. I think that one was ceramic coated
Early ones were bare stainless
This'll do it, stainless has high emissivity
Although still, bigger gradient than I'd expect
Yeah i was surprised people were having so many issues with it
The emissivity wouldn’t matter so much if it didn’t have such a high capacitance and low conductivity