#Nozzle is printing strands - tried to unclog but no luck
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It sounds like you have tried several common troubleshooting steps already. If you are still experiencing issues with your 3D printer, you may want to check for clogs in the hotend or extruder, ensure that the filament is feeding smoothly, and confirm that the nozzle is at the correct temperature for the filament being used. You may also want to double-check your slicer settings and make sure they are optimized for your specific printer and filament. If the issue persists, you may need to further investigate the hotend assembly or consider replacing any worn components.
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Still looking for help - thx!
Bump
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Bampp
When you yanked it out cold did the filament come out nozzle shaped, small cone on the end, or did it stretch, if it stretched try colder
@nimble slate
Usually people do it after just haiving the failure and not entirely cold
@lofty juniper kk yeah I’ll try again tm. I was thinking about replacing the nozzle too do you think that can help
yea its probably fix it, try more pulls first tho, if you do replace make sure to tighten nozel hot
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@untold belfry
What do you even mean with "printing strands"? The picture is just piece of filament thats stuck to the sidevof the nozzle
i guess extruding in air to look for the wigglies
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yeah but that happens everytime it comes out and then it doesnt stick appropriately to the bed
is it just a question of cleaning the nozzle? @untold belfry
I don't think your adhesion issues are related to that
You don't have a bed leveling probe on this monoprice I assume?
i do
i think ive trammed it kinda ok at this point
i did the paper test on all 4 corners
then followed it up with the bed leveling probe
Ah perfect, do you have M420 S1 or G29 in your slicer start gcode?
you kn ow what let me slice one of those STL files that makes the rectangles across the bed
and ill do M420 S1 and G29 in the slicer start if you think i should
Just look in your slicer 🤷
opening it up now let me check
And post it here
G90;
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
Get and/or set bed leveling state. For mesh-based leveling systems use Z parameter to set the Z Fade Height.
just add it as M420 S1; ?
You either add M420 S1 after G28 to load the last created mesh or G29 to create a mesh before every print
You also need to calibrate your probe z offset
I personally use klipper so its a bit different. My probing is relatively fast so I don't mind to create mesh every print.
sorry when you say "create mesh"
does that mean go through the process of auto leveling each time?
"auto bed leveling"
Yea
i dont mind going thru the auto bed leveling process each time if it will help with a good print
i rather it print slower with a better print than fast and shitty print lol
so add G29 after G28.
ok so now it looks like this
G90;
G28 ;Home
G29; Auto bed leveling
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
Looks good
ok let me find an STL file for the rectangle thing
and ill slice it and give it a shot
You don't have dedicated heating commands in there so it heats up everything at the start, thats where your oozing is coming from
so youre saying the nozzle problem I just live with it?
Tips for better first layer success
The first layer is quite literally the foundation of a successful print. These are some of the things to keep in mind:
- Wash your print surface with dish soap and water, refer to
?bedcleaning. - Ensure your printing temperatures are appropriate. For PLA, the ideal bed temperature is 55°C-60°C. If the lines appear to come out "gummy" and forms clumps, raising the nozzle temperature may help. Calibrate your nozzle temperature by printing a temperature tower. Refer also to
?platemps. - Relevel your bed and ensure your nozzle distance is equally spaced at each corner, refer to
?paperlevel. If your printer is equipped with a bed meshing probe such as a BLTouch or CRTouch, make sure your Z-offset positions the nozzle close enough to the bed, refer to?z-offsetfor additional information. If your printer has automatic Z-offset calibration, make sure the nozzle is clean while the calibration runs. - You can confirm that your leveling and Z-offset is correct by observing your first layer extrusion by printing a full layer test: Printables, Thingiverse Refer to
?levelingfor help with the interpretation of the results. - Ensure the nozzle is not colliding with the print. This usually presents itself as loud noises and layer shifting. Some causes may include overextrusion, insufficient cooling, mechanical Z axis issues, or insufficient Z hop
- For warp-prone materials such as ABS, Nylon, Polypropylene and others an enclosure is recommended, ensure ambient temperatures are high enough (40°C+) and stable. Consider using a specialized bed adhesive.
Theres links in here
You can also just add a rectangle in the slicer and scale it to size
kk thanks
What slicer do you use?
Let me look it up how to optimize your start gcode
if thers something better i can switch
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
G29 ; Create Bed Mesh
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for extruder to get up to temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first purge line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second purge line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
Replace your start gcode with this
It will prime the nozzle on the left side of the bed
If you run that for the first time, be present with your finger on the power button in case I fucked it up
Make sure everything has its own line
Its probably fine like its posted but I am on mobile and that might fluff up the formatting
I don't drink but I appreciate the gesture 😆
Your bed is 200 mm right?
300
Good
300mm x 300mm x 400mm
Because the code draws the purgeline up to 200 and that would confuse the machine greatly if it only has 180 or so
haha kk makes sense
Oh and add a G90 as the first line
In absolute mode all coordinates given in G-code are interpreted as positions in the logical coordinate space. This includes the extruder position unless overridden by M83.
Understood will do
wait I see an error
this is what i have now
G90; Absolute positioning
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
G29 ; Create Bed Mesh
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for extruder to get up to temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first purge line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second purge line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
I personally would retract a tiny bit more so G1 E-3 F300
and the homing is a bit weird
i get the settings online from someone who uses an MP10 so nothing i setup because im not sure what it is lol
if you have any suggestions happy to apply them!
M140 S0 ;turn off nozzle
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300 ;Retract the filament
G1 X0 Y300
M84 ;turn off motors```
Ah
Too early
so just switch it to G1 E-3 F300 right?
instead of G1 E-1 F300
do I have to update G92 E3 or leave it as G92 E1?
~~M104 S0 ;turn off bed M140 S0 ;turn off nozzle G92 E1 G1 E-3 F300 ;Retract the filament G91 ;relative positioning G0 Z1 ;raise nozzle a bit G90 ;absolute positioning G1 X0 Y300 ;park toolhead too the left and present buildplate for part removal M84 ;turn off motors ~~
That means relative positioning of the extruder
Set the current position to the values specified. In Marlin 1.1.0 and up, the software endstops are adjusted to preserve the physical movement limits. Thus you could use G92 to set the middle of the bed to 0,0 and then run .gcode that was sliced for a Deltabot.
Oh set position
M140 S0 ;turn off nozzle
M83
G1 E-3 F300 ;Retract the filament
G91 ;relative positioning
G0 Z1 ;raise nozzle a bit
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y300 ;park toolhead to the left and present buildplate for part removal
M84 ;turn off motors```
Final version
awesome thx
so how different should this be for an ender 3 pro for example?
the start/end code? I'm assuming fairly different right
once we get this fucker running i will need to double check with you if i did that one right lol
Basically the same
Almost all printers operate on the same principles and a few "languages"
ok let me go test ill brb
Remember: Finger on Power Switch
Kk yeah it’s here just watching it heat up first
Hmm
So it started printing outside for some reason
@untold belfry
Maybe I messed something up idk
Ah yeah that can happen if your home position is outside of the buildplate
Nope fine, we can fix that easily
Does your printer menu have something that reads like "set home offsets" or so?
Shitty old monoprice lol
measure with a ruler how far the nozzle is from the front left edge of the bed when its at X0 Y0
Kk one sec
We only need X and Y, we are going to tell the printer where the bed is in the start gcode
A damn how do I know when it’s at 0,0
It doesn’t give you the coordinates when you move it
Just has arrows to move
Does it move back a bit after hitting the endstop?
Yeah
Because it definitely can move further than that
Bumps up slightly
Move in which direction
Here I’ll make a video when I press home
Aka until it clicks
Man this poor probe
And now all the way back?
Let me check
Maybe like 6.35 mm off on left
Then it would be on bed
Now I go back until Y engages?
This one seems ok
We need two distances, X (left/right axis) and Y (back/forth axis)
Eh we will give it a bit
just to be safe
It would still be on the bed
Try it
Sorry try what
drive the nozzle to the right, see if its on the bed
Kk
We can also fix your poor probe being run into the bed by homing before a print
If you want
Because that video hurt
Okay we are going to edit the G28 line
Understood
G28 Z ; home Z
G0 Z10 ; move Z up to not crash the probe
G28 X Y ; home X and Y
M206 X10 X5 ; set home offsets
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
G29 ; Create Bed Mesh
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for extruder to get up to temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first purge line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second purge line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
``` this should (hopefully) work
Just avoid pushing home on the printer
kk
tghis is so awesome
i cant wait to learn more aobut this stuff
let me slice it and check it out
Because we can't change that unless you want to make changes to the firmware
ok time to try again
I am on my way home so I might not respond so quickly.
No worries man thx again for your help I’ll let you know how it goes
After all this, you might need to tune your z offset if its starting to print too high up
Z-offset
Where your printer thinks the nozzle is
The z-offset is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the trigger point of a bed sensor.
Setting your z-offset correctly ensures a good first layer squish and proper adhesion to the build plate (assuming its clean, see
?bedcleaning for more information). See
?leveling for a good representation of how the first layer should look like.
If in doubt: Refer to you your specific machines documentation.
For the Qidi X series printers: Adjusting the z offset from the Fluidd webinterface breaks it. Always set the z offset from the printers screen.
https://www.wevolver.com/article/z-offset-what-it-is-and-how-to-adjust-it
Ok so now it’s printing in the air
Ah kk
Hmm but this might be a problem I can only go down 4mm with Z offset
And this thing is up high
Should I lower the height in the slicer first
Then z offset it
@untold belfry lmk what youd suggest
This is still kinda weird🤔
Rest works?
I guess you have no filament loaded?
How high does it start?
4 mm should ne plenty usually. Can you move the probe mount up/down?
Oh and I spotted an error in the start gcode🙈
It should be M206 X20 Y5
Not X5
There is filament loaded
It just jumbled up
Didn’t come out straight
OK I’ll update it and record it with a video @untold belfry
@untold belfry
I tried lowering with z offset but it’s not working. Is there something in the start code we can put in to lower it back down?
Was it supposed to go around the bed and level itself first?
Because it just went there and started the print
Sorry which part
That it doesn’t go around and level first?
Or the whole thing lol 
Well I’m assuming this has something to do with the start g code right?
Since it wasn’t doing that before and we changed something, so is it possible to remove the Z axis component there and maybe it will go lower?
Or is there a way to leave the Z blank and tell it to use auto bed level sensor and input that value in
Like idk set Z = missing
Run auto bed level and store coordinates for X1 Y1 and Z1
Set Z = to Z1
@untold belfry
If you check your video (from before) it homes z with the probe, doesn't it?
Did you add the probe or did it come with it?
I’m not sure if it homes the last two times I printed
Probe and everything else is stock to the printer
No hardware or software mods ever
I’m pretty sure it didn’t home this time though
I think it just went straight to start printing
I feel like we were pretty close when it was just missing the X axis by a few millimeters
Can we just tell it to go in by X=10mm and not change anything else or does it not work like that @untold belfry
Yeah we can roll back the last change I guess...
#1324457398189953107 message this with the M206 X10 Y5 added
Kk so to add the M206 line?
Kk
And this should make it auto level first right?
Or simply go into the print
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Hey sorry for the delay! @untold belfry
So I tried the print it’s starting and looking better but it doesn’t create the mesh across the bed before it prints
It’s starting to print but not sticking well or something idk
Whys it not doing it?
can you connect the printer via usb to a computer?
Idk I can try
What would I be looking for to see if I can
It has a micro usb port
How would I know if it’s connected correctly
To the PC
You get the "Pronterface" software which gives you a terminal to send gcode and see the printers answers, basically
Why you should put tape on your USB cable
Your device might try to feed power to your printers motherboard, causing all sorts of problems from loss of connection to a destroyed board. Putting tape on the 5V pin of the cable can be an easy solution.
Consider doing this to the usb cable, no clue if your board is protected from backfeeding power into it
Oh I used to have octoprint running it for a year back in the day
So I think we’re just going to send it lol
Ok so download pronterface ?
Ok I downloaded it, lmk what you think I should send to it
M503
Print a concise report of all runtime-configurable settings (in SRAM) to the host console. This command reports the active settings which may or may not be the same as those stored in the EEPROM.
kk
OK so I can’t get printer face to connect
Should I just set up an octopi and connect like that?
@untold belfry
As long as you can get a console to send gcode directly
I think octopi does that let’s see I’ll check in when I can. Thx so much for your help!
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does this make sensE?
Recv: echo: G21 ; Units in mm
Recv:
Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled
Recv: echo: M200 D1.75
Recv: echo: M200 D0
Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
Recv: echo: M92 X94.20 Y94.20 Z800.00 E97.00
Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
Recv: echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z6.00 E25.00
Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
Recv: echo: M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000
Recv: echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
Recv: echo: M204 P1000.00 R1000.00 T1000.00
Recv: echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_us> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
Recv: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00
Recv: echo:Home offset:
Recv: echo: M206 X10.00 Y5.00 Z0.00
Recv: echo:Unified Bed Leveling:
Recv: echo: M420 S1 Z5.00
Recv:
Recv: Unified Bed Leveling System v1.01 active.
Recv:
Recv: Active Mesh Slot: 0
Recv: EEPROM can hold 1 meshes.
Recv:
Recv: echo:PID settings:
Recv: echo: M301 P20.00 I0.02 D250.00
Recv: echo: M304 P231.09 I45.21 D295.34
Recv: M562 Report:
Recv: XYZAB
Recv: +--+-
Recv: echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
Recv: echo: M851 Z-0.66
Recv: echo:Stepper motor currents:
Recv: echo: M907 X850 Z850 E800
Recv: echo:Filament load/unload lengths:
Recv: echo: M603 L0.00 U100.00
Recv: ok N6 P7 B5
@untold belfry
i sent M503
and this is what it said it received
Send: N6 M503*35
G92 got me this:
Send: N7 G92*21
Recv: X:20.00 Y:10.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:942 Y:471 Z:-481
Recv: ok N7 P7 B5
Recv: T:24.19 /0.00 B:23.94 /0.00 @:0 B@:0
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You got unified bed leveling enabled, which in retrospect, makes sense
The Unified Auto Bed Leveling system (UBL) provides automated procedures to probe the bed and compensate for an irregular or tilted bed
You can delete the G92 from your start gcode and its best to follow the setup on the marlin site
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Kk so just remove the G92? And are you saying I should follow what’s under Setup and Initial Probing?
Are these issues probably due to bed not being level?
@untold belfry thx again
Yes, Unified bed leveling is very much out of my expertise though
Either bed not level or meshing not applied
Hey man everything you know abt 3d printers is at a much higher level of understanding than what I know lol
Kk I’ll see what I can figure out