#Fast Ender Build
1 messages ¡ Page 6 of 1
looks good
do you have strain relief for the cables
well ig you can zip tie to the duct
I love these super fancy looking toolheads and then you have to loop zipties around everything because easy strainrelief wasn't on the designers list of requirements
They acc have that cadded in lmfao
I believe then it maybe hits the cpap thing
What abt this spacing
Thereâs only .3mm from a pin to the nozzle in z height
Your nozzle tip should be on the same plane as the green bit
Yeah but it's more of a suggestion
Not the end of the world if there is metal in there
Okay
static*
moving metal in the keepout will be very annoying
Back from Scotland so I might work on this perhance
I bought some abs-gf and pa6-cf
These bambu sales are crazy
Iâm at the point where Iâd pay someone like $30 to cad a decent toolhead
should i just go bowden with the boombox
that would make life sm easier
if anyone wants to?
what's wrong with the current ones?
all overcomplicated
kevins just look so simple
ive tried using breackneck but its bad
uap is weird too
ive tried cadding my own but i cant
would it be dumb to print kevins toolhead out of pa6-cf
or should i use abs-gf
i have both now
ive decided to just use this
nylon creeps
use abs
Bambus website says itâs good for stuff that needs to vibrate
I mean itâs not like itâs under lots of load tho
belt tension
it wonât be able to handle it
just use abs-gf
itâs lighter weight
and better
What if I use abs for that part
So what do I use my pa6 on
not this one
this is old
like, really old
Soo I should use the server fan one?
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
this is the most up to date one
It looks the same but with 2 more fan mourning points and the canvection
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
it also uses the new belt mount
and klack probe
why are you using bltouch
klack is pretty much free and better
bltouch rattles and vibrates at high accel
the only thing you need to do for klack is print some parts and get some 6x3 magnets
and for the switch you can reuse the Z limit switch
This is true
When I removed it my shaper graphs got so much better
I lost mine
I did
so you lost all your limit switches?
Wiring is just two wires
you can take em off the pcb
You can just cut it off
It would have almost zero rigidity
The purpose of a rail and extrusion is to provide a means for alignment and rigidity on the axis. Belts can twist very easily unless under super heavy load, so theyâd be unable to support the weight of a toolhead in any way that could be used on a printer
Linear rails donât limit speed
At least not noticeably
They provide rigidity and keep everything in place
With just belts it would be bouncing all over the place
I mean I guess if you ran like double 20mm belts it might kinda work but good luck doing that lmao
Resistance is negligible from the rail
But if you want you could spend a couple thousand on air bearing linear guides
It was js a dumb idea I had
Bought everything for Kevin toolhead and y axis with 9mm belts
Iâll have to make my own y axis belt mounts cause I always fuck up drilling
But this donât have to be super aligned so maybe itâll be fine
Hotend fans and bolts come Saturday the rest from Ali comes aug 1st
Goal is just a fucking working 3d printer
Iâll go 9mm for y axis too
Maybe
I canât copy Kevinâs cuz of my carriage mounts
m3 because m3 fits
I used M4 with a nut
M3 youâd need a washer but you can use it
If you donât have M4
so i can put an m4 heatset here
I mean you could if the OD of your heat sets fits the hole đ¤ˇââď¸
Idk what size your M4 heat sets are
not there, the printed part, m4 heatsets are thicker
why waste space and weight doing m4?
might as well just skip the heatsets and ziptie them or make snapfit
Damn this abs gf part feels weird to touch
Its made for m3 heatset inserts
i build kevin toolhead with ONLY the fans
cant even do 500/500k
new motor time probably
what do i get
i have the omc 48mm
also wow these 5015 fans suck
my cpap has sm more
aux cooling time
cause this is BAD
?
the hotend contributes to the com
Okay but what motors should I buy
But eh I mean leadshines wonât give me better quality
Just a faster benchy which is useless
It's missing the hotend and extruder, and that's not how ur supposed to attach the accelerometer
the adxl itself is the problem
Why
sees its own vibrations if its not securely mounted
You also need to install cross feet. Shaking front to back like that destroys Y shapers
Okay Iâll js go pla for those should be good
does the carpet matter
Yes
like its better?
incase anyone cares i made a thread for a 10 day 3d printer cad attempt :)
looks like this so far
Well to be fair Kevin just found it as a random CAD on OnShape and didnât make the original design
Was clearly heavily based on Stinger toolhead
Bro what
I thought he fully made it from scratch
Nope. Was some random CAD he found because OnShape makes all your work public unless you pay for it
He modified it for duct length and some other minor changes
But it was basically 80% ready when he found it
Wait thatâs crazy lmfao
I remeber Kevin said he wasnât great at cad and I was thinking âhowâd he cad THISâ
Well he got better at cad and some of the stuff now is a lot better but that toolhead was one of the first things IIRC
Pretty early in kevins hero arc
Iâm ngl, I might cad a 3d printer to get benchy wr
Like 50mm bed
Bowden
Only aux cooling
Awd everything
48v
Wouldnât that basically be guaranteed
Yup
9 for sure
If youâre going for WR benchy you only need a bed as large as the base of the benchy which is only like 30mm
Doesnât need to be as wide as the full thing
well yes but the belt
OHH YEAH
ill get that later though the bed is easy to change
You only need the base to stick so the rest can hang off the sides but yeah
this is it rn
planning to use boombox
awd x and y
48v
to be honest this will probably never be built but maybe
with ducts tho
tou still need ducts to direct the air
Kevin is using open âductsâ to direct the aux cooling down towards the nozzle
yeye i see
i could just go abs so less cooling though
sureley for a benchy u dont need too much cooling
ABS or PC-ABS are generally the best for speed benchy since theyâre very rigid when printed and get a lot of flow but they still need a ton of cooling when youâre stacking layers in seconds or less at a time
ill figure cooling out later
motion system is harder
his is only 1 motor per axis
i want 2
cuz why not
Money probably
i mean id gladly pay $50 more to get the edge over other people
cuz u also need more drivers
A single 48 N17 will easily move a bed that small but I mean it canât hurt to have more
If all-out is what youâre going for then yeah do 5 motor
ah
cute lil 150mm rails
i wanna put the tensioner on the bed but i know thats bad cuz it just adds vibro
Yeah itâs just extra bulk on the bed, not really any reason to do it
would make motor mounts easier to cad
i wonder how much this whole thing would cost
i think like 300
but if im spending $300 i BETTER get the wr
I mean you might be able to save some money if you hack saw some longer extrusions
Since youâre going so small lol
Do u think id get wr
I mean as it stands right now I think itâs just that anybody who is the first to build a tiny purpose build bed slinger would probably take it
Sooo me if I make this then
The T250 record is impressive but it still honestly an inferior motion system for speed
I mean this thing could too but itâs not beating Kevinâs new one
The fact somebody took WR with a CoreXY is impressive but Kevin was also barely trying
Well yeah
The custom printer I cadded is a small bedslinger but I think this tiny one would get it
I guess itâs just, is the satisfaction worth $300
I mean itâs also a hobby project for the next couple months and if thatâs what you enjoy I donât see anything wrong with that if youâre not strapped for cash
I mean that would be my 3rd printer build at the same time
Ender, custom one, and this 
But I mean wr would be so cool
Iâll cad the y motor stuff tn
Yes itâll look just like Kevinâs
ok maybe ill steal kevins
y axis
this is unironically harder
and im a lazy mf
might as well take his toolhead too
but that feels wrong if i got wr with HIS stuff
x axis is gonna be a pain to cad
made tensioner 9mm
i should make a new thread
#1398014751790858370
WAIT IM A GENIUS
IF I MAKE THE X AXIS OUT OF 2040 I CAN USE THE Y AXIS MOTOR MOUNTS FOR THE X AXIS
WAIT AND THEN THE 9MM BELTS WILL FIT

it just needs a z axis
any ideas?
What is the motive for making the X a 2040 extrusion? Is it so you can pass the belt through the middle? Or just so you donât have to design anything?
it doesnt
at least not with this design
R u sure?
for the X axis id just remake it and put the tensioner on the toolhead
8500rpm fans came
Any mains voltage bits on the printer?
nope
Bro they gave me this instead of the micro switch
Wow my P1S js prints everything amazing
Abs gf
Motor mounte
Would making the belt tensioner out of pa6 cf be dumb cuz creep
Yup
heat
Like how so
Torch?
I used a hammer to get the 9mm on
POS
cant even do 800/50k with bed
x axis cant even do 700/1mil with just the stepper
is it 48v time
ok thread revival time
goal is a print done by the end of tn
this is WITH kevin toolhead
why is it still so shit
how are you mounting the adxl? you can see the peak is clean but it's vibrating in the Y axis too
also, this is a lis2dw right?
yep
OHHHHHH FUCKKK
WAIT
I HAD IT AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE

vibro is still super high though
how the hell are you mounting it
yeah
but it doesent fit straight
it needs to be at the angle
i think i just suck it up and go with what it gave me probably
honestly, just dont look at the vibrations
I think there's something wrong with the testing setup
ive had super high vibro on every single toolhead ever
thats why i spend $60 on the kevin toolhead
try just using 81hz mzv
yeah. id print with it and see if there's any ringing
goal is a voron cube by tn
bc this matches what I get amost exactly, except I have 0% vibro
oh deadass?
so there's probably something wrong with the lis2dw setup
i fianally did something right
yay
its a little sad cuz its no longer my printer
its ur design
but yours is better tbf
i spend god knows how much just to go back to your shi
great minds think alike
@zealous wraith what is ur PA value
and input shaper for y
Depends on the filament but ~0.02
79.6hz mzv
um
but heat radiates out
thats gonna creep
Let him cook đ

Theres a reason why ducts usually arenât that close to the nozzle but okay let you cook
Okok
Vid? @weak imp
God damnit you don't even have a deposit on your cans
Do you want a molten mess? Thats how you get a molten mess
i have a can
its just hard to use
scissors can cut cans
and you even have a printed template
ill stick with this for now
its printed some items and its fine so far
i cant even do like
450/40k tho
its kinda ass
cant rn
but basically quality isnt great
and it like lifts off the plate sometimes
and its not rlly fast
kinda disapointing i spent this much money just for it to be bambu level speeds
No rush
LMAO
I mean
Itâs good
Just wished I could print at 700/50k like Kevin
Really think you guys just need to block each other and move on
@proud wagon
Be excellent to each other. First, be kind. Be helpful. Keep all feedback constructive and framed positively.
If you donât have anything constructive or positive to say, keep it to yourself, thanks.
I see a history of popping in here and being a general ass, making this warn long overdue
Yes but itâs hard to cut
but printed shield will melt
you can cut soda can with scissors
im kinda limited by flow rn
and max speed
i can only realistically print at like 300/20k
Nice

I mean tune max vol flowđ¤ˇ
Other part is I donât have the 80w heater yet so it cools down to 195c
And at 195c Iâd imagine flow sucks
But PETG is less flow
But jeez
30 is disappointing
Whatâs also disappointing is how my y axis isnât as fast as it was with 6mm belts
Tops out at like 700/60k
Impressive detail tho for 10k outer walls
you can see it shaking all over the place
you need to put it on something better than carpet
Like what
Prolly smth solid I think
Idk
a concrete paver is a common one
Oh wait I actually might have a spare one
A paver on carpet would work pretty well. It gives even dispersal of pressure across the printer
From this table I made like 6 years ago
Bolt printer into the floor 
Anyway thank you so much to like all of you guys along the last like 9 months helping me with shit
This might be meta
You mean you donât encase the base of your printer in solid concrete? Amateur
anything that makes it so that it doesnt rock back and fourth
you mean you dont get a entire machine base casted and machined out of Iron or Granite?
Thatâs what cnc machines do
Donât they like fill their extrusions with cement
You don't have a robot arm as printer that's bolted with 24 M18 bolts into a 5000kg solid steel base? 
thats a cheap way
V-chonk but the entire base is a solid CNC block of steel 
I feel like a cnc machine would be a fun thing to have
Thereâs a bed slinger that did this
Paticipating in @Rolohaun Discord's challenge with a fast bedslinger!
Stormwalker 120 is a 3d printer focused on rigidity and bed center of mass, resulting in very high input shaper recommended acceleration (86kmm/s^2 on Y, 63kmm/s^2 on X).
Thus, the outer wall of the model can be printed at a whopping 80kmm/s^2 acceleration, and still preserve...
Itâs all cadded in blender
i saw that
could be worse but
why do that to yourself
i would argue it is that bad
onshape is free
idk i know people who unironically use Roblox studio as cad so
I mean I see it being possible to get relatively close to this with just a drill but Iâm sure a CNC makes it way easier
drill would really struggle with alignment and tolerances id think
Yeah of course. Wonder how much it would cost to get somebody locally to drill press it
Also that X gantry is nuts
Double rail
Print a template, Drill using the template, You can get prety close tolerances depending your template :d
I mean depending on application the tolerances donât matter TOOOO much
Motor alignment maybe but linear rails you better not mess that up
the hotend is certainly something aswell
lemme try and find a photo
Itâs a tz v6 with this screwed into it
And thereâs the flat ceramic heaters literally kapton taped to it
?itworks
lol
Holy shit
ok silicone sock fixed that
Logan pls cable manage a little đ
wait i could see this thing being really good for prototyping
weird i only get 160mm of y axis build area
i think i gotta rotate my extrusion 180 degrees
160x200mm build volume is shit for a 235 bed
Buy a longer extrusion
Maybe?
You should be getting like 200-220
You just shift it forward
I get full build volume
100%
Close enough
Hell yeah
Now just buy zip ties đ
You can even door dash them
Kinda great quality
Esp for 10k outer walls
I wish I could go faster than 300mm/s but itâs whatever
but jeez this printer is so nice for rapid prototyping
.25 tolerance
Not bad for the speeds
True
wait my y cant even do 500/50k
did you sync the motors
Yes
the only other thing would be the rail alignment
80w heater came but Iâm far too lazy to install it
ayy starting to look better
what me and kevin do to keep it up is
hook this to the clip and attach to the top x extrusion
clever
I still have some ringing but im too lazy to fix it
Also the printed convection is picking up filament
So prints arenât great
Time to print a fresh one
soda can
how is constantly reprinting it less work than cutting a can one time 
hard to cut
you can use sissors
Get a bunch of these kind of scissors
is it a DIYd hotend or bought?
No mk8 nozzles in that one, yes?
after tight comes loose and after loose comes work
I donât know if this was a cht
that bore is pretty big to not be
True
You still got that picture of your snapped heatblock
which one
The mze one
which mze one
lol
still kind of how the printer looks ngl
not a snapped heatblock now but a nozzle
Amazon sent me extra nozzles for some reason
So now I have 30 hardened steel volcano nozzles for $6
Time to make a DIY big bore nozzle
Drilling HS doesn't sound too fun, but at least there's a pilot hole
Not with that attitude
Print quality is utter shit now
It used to be perfect
ohh
i think its a lack of flow
cause im not using cht
Did tapped Hardened steel in the past, the tap did 3 holes until it was dull and cost 120âŹ
Usually gives different artifacts
So what is this then
@zealous wraith how much flow does ur tz give you
Are theee nozzles just shit that I got
đ¤ˇ
Would that cause inconsistent surface finish
Did you increase temp for hardened steel?
Like 20ÂşC extra
Pla at 250??
thats fine
Premise
Experimental investigation on effects of fabrication temperature on mechanical properties of FDM parts is presented. Specimens fabricated at temperatures ranging from 180 to 260Â âC were used for this investigation.
TLDR:
PLA has been shown to benefit from printing at elevated temperatures, even as high as 260C. Some of these benefits include higher density, lower internal porosity and improved interlayer adhesion. These benefits amount to a stronger part.
Caution:
Take care before exceeding 225C to ensure your machine and hotend are up to the task. Stock machines usually are not safe above these temperatures due to a ptfe lining see ?ptfe-temps for more info.
you also melt at higher volume means it wont actually reach that temperature
Didnât work
I mean
The prints come out like shiny
Nope
Hey wait
These look 2 different fucking sizes
I bought a $3 brass cht
It finally came and it prints
This one seems to have slightly more flow so I might be able to push speeds more
My motion system is still slow for some reason but I think Iâm still flow capped
Still has weird surface texture but itâs not that bad
Looks like extrusion inconsistency to me
Looking to spots like that where the lines look very inconsistent stacked likely due to extrusion
Yeahh Iâve noticed the protoxtruder gears are kinda weird
The gear has so much play in it
The small play in the gear shouldnât be an issue when the filament is in there and has proper tension on it
The play is so that the gears can line up properly on the filament
I meant the gear that goes on thr stepper
send a video
seems like a bearing died

It was like that as soon as I installed it
If I could fix that though it would make my print quality better right?
are you using the large bearing version?
take it apart and inspect the bearings
The hole for the bearing is too big
show
Iâd have to disassemble the whole think
Thing
And also layer adhesion sucks for infill
The hole is for a larger bearing. This extruder is for large bearing upgrade
No this isnât your remix
Wym this isn't my remix
This is the tall version of protoXtruder right?
So that it fits the toolhead
Yes
Anyway Kevin what speeds do you print at
I default to 500mm/s on everything, and each filament profile has its own flow limit
What accel
With 300 outer wall bc I find that to have the least VFA for the motors and drivers that I am using
10k outer 20k inner 40k infill
I do 10k outer 30k everything and 330mm/s
1.5 sec min later time
Layer
But for some reason
Reducing my fan speed to 50% makes the infill actually stick
Itâs so weird
I hope itâs just wet filament
Yeah uh looking at the video that gear is not supposed to move lol
The gears that touch the filament sure
But that one definitely isnât
So yeah seems like a dead bearing like 1mon said
dead? itâs missing
Its definetly the rails, idk what else would be messing with it so much. You're in spreadcycle right?
mhm
could also be shot motors
but ive basically accpted it
the prioject is kinda done
but
then again i getr layer shifts sometimes and its just 500/40k
I mean I havenât lubed them in a few months but they feel fine
x axis cant even do 500/200k
HAS to be motors
maybe i should just rebuy the same ones
Can always put the old ones on a future project
My 2104 will go in my ht printer
I wonder what my future project should be
I really want one of the h series printers but an idex ender could be cool too
Build a cnc!
Mine will only be about 1000
Plus probably 500 in accessories
And what are you gonna use it for
Same thing I use my 3d printer forđ
Making parts for new machine

