PLA+ and PETG (not together) for First Time Printing

[worthy field]

Hey there, first time 3D printing. Pulled the trigger on a Bambu Lab P1S after some time researching what I intend to create, frequency of use, and materials I intend to use over time - I found that the P1S had the best value in terms of low maintenance, quick start, and future scalability.

Anyway, I am looking to create props for my wife's cosplay armors because when it comes to making something from 2D reference to real life 3D objects, my mind is much better geared towards doing that in the digital sense.

From my research, I think PLA+ is a good starting point where it is easy to work with but also durable enough to withstand sanding. Along the lines of durability, PLA+ is more flexible and can withstand higher temps. With that said, I don't think leaving any props on the dashboard of a car will even happen (this seems to be the only example ever).

I am also in favor of PETG because of the durability to sand and ease of use. I understand that having a successful print of PETG, I will need to be mindful to dry the filament, and can do that with my P1S and be kept dry in the AMS.

I think for my first test prints and learning, will be creating two props, one with PLA+ and the other with PETG. Fuck around and find out first hand. Starting easy with a Daedric sword from Skyrim, then move onto more complex props like axes then bows. I can use the other element for supports since the two don't adhere together.

Any thoughts on my approach?

[round cove]

AI Help

It sounds like you have done thorough research and have a well-thought-out plan for your 3D printing projects. Starting with PLA+ and PETG for your props is a good idea, as they are both popular materials for cosplay items due to their durability and ease of use. Testing out different materials with simpler and then more complex props will give you a good understanding of how each material behaves and help you improve your printing skills.

Remember to take your time with calibration, bed leveling, and temperature settings for each material to achieve the best results. And as you mentioned, being mindful of filament storage and drying for PETG is important for successful prints. Good luck with your Daedric sword and future cosplay prop creations! If you have any specific questions or run into any issues during your printing process, feel free to ask for assistance.

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.

[humble spade]

Sounds good. 🥳

Just some other general info if u want it....
Petg has to print slower on the first few layers than pla...
I don't know how well petg takes paint, as it's essentially the same as a recyclable soda bottle.

There's also pva filament which is dissolvable....which could be useful for printing things with cavities + where support removal could be hard.

Pla + warps in a car 40 degrees celcius and up....it can be reshaped with a hot hairdryer....
Petg can also be shaped with a basic heatgun (60 degrees)

For anything that has to go in the car, you're unfortunatley looking at asa or abs probably....and you gotta look at some safety for the fumes from those...

For anything flexible, look at tpu....could be handy for custom straps and belts if don't want to go with leather or salvaged stuff.

You can also use bondo or fillers to reduce the sanding needed on 3d printed items....

Would love to see the skyrim stuff as you build it!!

[worthy field]

Thank you, Blu! And yes, I welcome any and all info/opinions for me to digest.

Ah, yes you reminded me that the Bambu's default print setting for PETG has to be reduced by around 50%. Hopefully I remember this when it comes time to print 😄

Okay, I just opened like three videos to learn more about PVA because that is new to me and sounds like something I will very likely use.

Regarding the temps, when you put it like that, it's definitely a factor to warp. My scenario is that she will be holding the props most of the day during a con that might happen during the summer. Something with a higher temp tolerance is better. So maybe just start with PETG and skip PLA entirely?

Will have to look at ASA and ABS some more. I haven't looked into TPU yet but this also sounds very useful.

Regarding the painting and bondo, I plan on light sanding and applying a primer so hopefully this works?

Will definitely show you the Skyrim props and armor!

[worthy field]

@humble spade

[humble spade]

@worthy field Ooo wow 👀
Thankyou! This is cool! I'm saving it.

Abs + asa is up 100 or 80 i think... They kinda start warping \ softening around their bed temp or glass transition temp...
I've not tested petg in a car yet....(Thats in progress atm).
I'm an aussie....so very hot resistance needed... 😅
It's worse if your vehicle is black....and your material is black.

Tpu doesn't cos its...err already technically not hard...so it's already at warping temp at room temperature....it's slighty heat shapable....but less so than pla + petg.....and petg seems to sortive want to return to it's orginal printed shape as it cools down.... Which was annoying for my use case

We can't have the material to temp resistant...else it doesn't print :-c

Anything carbon fibre or with particles (glow in the dark, marble) is both more abrasive on your nozzle and more likely to clog....more of a problem the smaller your nozzle....

Also... Have you ever tried painting wlone of those recyclable bottles? It doesnt stick well... 😅

Actually cos you're printing larger things....you can probably look at something like a 0.6 nozzle so you can print faster..... 😅

I've not heard to much about pa6....but that looks interesting...

[worthy field]

Source material:

https://bambulab.com/en-us/filament/collections/decorative-parts

https://bambulab.com/en-us/filament/guide

I was going to start with PETG and ABS but then I read this about ABS:

Idk what constitutes as "high infill density models" just yet but I feel pretty good about starting with PETG for cosplay props

The P1S comes stock with a 0.4 nozzel and I am pretty tied up most of the week with work so I'm okay with slow prints during the week days that will be ready for me to work on by the weekend

[humble spade]

In terms of strength for cosplay props pla would be fine to... Petg even better cos it's more dimensionally accurate, and little bit of bend....

It's just storing it in the car that makes me worry for you... 😅
You put a ton of work into it and i'm sure it looks amazing....and then it sits in the car on hot day (26 degrees) and..yeah 😅
Then u maybe want to looks at the "automotive parts" category, cos they can do inside car temps. (Think when parked)
This is the ONLY reason i'm saying look at that.

Abs IS harder to print....
Infill is just the stuff in the middle of the object your printing....you can adjust it before you print something.

Oh awesome!

Ooh i forget to mention! You can get very clear almost transparent prints from petg!

And embed objects like magnets + leds in it!

Getting a filament dryer is easy....but with how large you'll be printing, your filament wont be sitting unbagged long enough really...it'd just be if it comes to you wet from factory....

P1s is enclosed too!( I think?) So you could look at stuff like a bento box filter (later on)

[round cove]

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[worthy field]

Could you please link this?

I'll need clear PETG for the RGB strips I'll have built into the prop

[worthy field]

In addition to PETG, I also got a few spools of ABS

[humble spade]

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/transparent-petg-basic-any-tips/33191

Only other thing i know about it is that a certain amount of fans makes it go cloudy...

[copper oar]

?glass

[round cove]

https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass

[copper oar]

@humble spade for you too👆

[humble spade]

Sorry, I'm trying, i don't know all the commands yet.... 😅 Forum link to a cnc kitchen vid that has details too.
Thanks

[copper oar]

No worries😁