#Fuzzy skin like parts of print

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

half cliff
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I recently changed over to 0,6mm nozzle after not being able to print for a few months (work + school = busy) now parts of my print or the whole thing look as if i was using fuzzy skin, i have never seen that before and am honestly dumbfounded as to what is causing it.
Printer is elegoo neptune 2 with V6 hotend conversion running on custom marlin 2.1.x with octoprint running on RP02W.
Worst part is how unpredictable this behavior is.
Sometimes its on half of the model, sometimes only on one side, sometimes its everywhere and sometimes the print comes out looking great.

sharp birchBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you may be experiencing under-extrusion with the new 0.6mm nozzle. Here are some common causes and solutions for fuzzy or inconsistent print quality:

  1. Filament Diameter: Check if the filament diameter setting in your slicing software matches the actual diameter of your filament. Incorrect settings can lead to under-extrusion.

  2. Nozzle Clog: Clean your 0.6mm nozzle thoroughly to ensure there are no obstructions that may be causing inconsistent extrusion.

  3. Nozzle Temperature: Ensure your nozzle temperature is set correctly for the filament you are using. Different filaments have recommended temperature ranges for optimal extrusion.

  4. Retraction Settings: Adjust your retraction settings in the slicer to minimize stringing and ensure proper filament flow.

  5. Extruder Calibration: Recalibrate your extruder steps/mm to ensure the correct amount of filament is being pushed through the nozzle.

  6. Print Speed: Slow down your print speed to g...

half cliff
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as for material, i am currently using PLA but issue is persistent across all materials i have (PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU) along with those come their specific temperatures, speeds etc.

hollow bison
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Did you set line width appropriately for the new nozzle?

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Could be it's set at less than nozzle diameter

half cliff
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Here is a smaller test print from the previous piece made with exact same settings

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i am making a clip for LED rails and was testing just the clip (smaller print) before making a connecting piece (larger print)

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I just noticed i had Line width set to 0.5mm in cura for some magical reason (had it set to 0.6) but i am still puzzled as to why it sometimes worked and sometimes not
Set it it 0.6 and started the print, will know more in ~14 mins

hollow bison
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Well straight lines would work passably but where pressure changes like at a corner it's more likely to cause issues

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You can extrude thinner than the nozzle in limited scenarios but generally the results will be worse because there isn't the same level of constraint on the extrusion

half cliff
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Soo in cura, nozzle set to 0.6, line width set to 0,6 octoprint nozzle set to 0,6mm and still the same issue as in previous images

hollow bison
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Got a pic of a solid first layer so we can see the extrusions top down?

half cliff
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sec, gonna let it print the first layer as i dont have a pic on hand

hollow bison
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How fast are you printing here? Possible you're out running the melt capabilities since you were (presumably) printing on smaller nozzle before?

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Also extrusion temp and material

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Lots of under/inconsistent extrusion here

half cliff
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Creality black PLA, 205 C

hollow bison
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Can you try 215C on the same print first layer and post updated pic without changing anything else so we can compare.

half cliff
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sure thing

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those were first layers on the previous 2 attempts

hollow bison
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The material does look rather wet as well but I'd think we could improve a bit more than just needing drying

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Listen for any popping and look for any steam from the hotend this time

half cliff
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it should be as dry as i can get it considering i let it sit at 55C for good 10 hours

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and it was yesterday

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just for comparison, this is what the first layer should look like according to cura

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the blob in the middle is from when i hit pause instead of cancel...

hollow bison
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What's layer height?

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The pause and eventual cancel sure seem like there's a lot of pressure bleeding off

half cliff
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0,3mm normal and 0,2 mm initial

hollow bison
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Both should be okay on a 0.6 but initial could be a problem if offset isn't correct.

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Do you have any coasting, wiping, or extra prime settings enabled

half cliff
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and LIN_ADVANCE in marlin itself

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actually lin_advance should be off taking closer look

hollow bison
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The coasting I'd get rid of that is asking for gaps. The wipe of 0.1mm will be ineffective but probably not specifically causing issues

half cliff
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i am gonna try to run the whole print with coasting off at 215 C to see what it does

hollow bison
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Okay, I'll assume it'll be a bit. Ping me when it finishes

half cliff
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sure thing

hollow bison
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Would double check your esteps are correct after this as well.

half cliff
half cliff
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For comparison, this is the previous attempt from the same angles

hollow bison
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Where those blobs are mid wall, is the machine pausing momentarily?

half cliff
half cliff
hollow bison
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One thing that can cause stuttering (which can in turn cause blobs) is power recovery enabled and writing to an sd/microsd card

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So i would try disabling power recovery feature if it is enabled in the firmware

half cliff
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M413 returns Unknown command, and i believe i didn't enable it in marlin anyway

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even replaced the usb cable between printer and raspberry to be sure its not in that

hollow bison
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I was about to ask that. Next I'd try printing something directly off sd card in the machine though

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The straight lines look okay (not amazing but better than the curves) and the supports look okay but could be like g2/3 moves. The curved area comprised of many small facets seem to be relatively a big problem. Those would be made up of many short line segments so more gcode needed to be available in the buffer on time

half cliff
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i am gonna give it a try to see what it does, just need to dig out the USB to sd card thingy, be back in few mins

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If it turns out that the Octoprint/raspberry was the culprit i am most likely gonna just throw it in a drawer somewhere and order RPI4 + screen and run klipper on it 🙃

hollow bison
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Well it could be something about buffer settings too or the board itself and how usb is implemented

half cliff
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the thing still messing with my brain is how it used to run fine with 0,4mm nozzle few months back

hollow bison
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I won't be able to offer much help in specifically fixing stuff in marlin since I use rrf primarily but can try to isolate the issue

hollow bison
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V6 should be able to do like 12-16mm³/s iirc

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120mm/s exceeds that. The first layer speeds should be no problem

half cliff
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Yeeah, just opened a calculator for that and aparrently i am attemping to push 21.6 mm3/s 😅 that could explain quite a bit actually

hollow bison
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Assuming the v6 is all metal heat break too (generally would be) we could try higher temps still. I don't want you to push 230C or higher if its not all metal break

half cliff
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its allmetal titanium heatbreak with aluminium cube

hollow bison
half cliff
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first layer could be partly due to Z offset being slightly off and that buildplate still being not just stock but original

hollow bison
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You can maybe squeeze 20mm³/s out of a v6 hotend with a "normal" nozzle

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But that's pushing it and you'll need the higher temps

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Would be better if you could exist somewhere in the 12-16mm³/s range

half cliff
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Now I am even more confused 😅

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(uploading video)

hollow bison
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So the blobs on the curved surface are gone?

half cliff
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yeah, and its printing just fine at those 120mm/s

hollow bison
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I see the seam sucks but that could be a lot of things

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So this is off the sd card?

half cliff
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Yeah, directly from SD card

hollow bison
half cliff
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not hyper PLA, just the regular basic, 40% off sale PLA

hollow bison
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I'd say drop speed or bump temp more.

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I think your big issue here is something to do with buffering the incoming gcode from usb

half cliff
hollow bison
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Not necessarily the pi's fault but could be a firmware config or the actual usb implementation on the board can't handle it well

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We can still see some under extrusion on the supports here (will remix relevant images)

hollow bison
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So i think it's still outrunning the hotend there

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Higher temps or slowing down or lower layer height will alleviate that

half cliff
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i would say those are just doue to the angle in cura

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bot for example the middle part of that curve is supposed to be 0,8 and its spot on

hollow bison
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The seam having insufficient material can also indicate insufficient melt performance.

half cliff
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yeah, i believe i am pushing it was above its limits looking back at it

hollow bison
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0.2 lh should still be fine on a 0.6 if you wanna keep same speeds

half cliff
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corner seam has too much material from too high pressure and curve seam has too little

hollow bison
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Yeah you'll want to circle back to pressure advance/linear advance once close

half cliff
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i kept the speeds from the 0,4mm nozzle when i was doing 0,2mm layers which would be 9,6 mm3/s and didnt realize i would be limited by volumentric flow

hollow bison
hollow bison
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I think v6 is generally comfortable around 20-25 with cht or other high flow nozzle geometry

half cliff
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first, i will try a full reinstall of octoprint to see if it helps at all
and as a second thing i am likely put a volcano on it and see what it does ( i already have cube and nozzles sitting around somewhere)

hollow bison
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Though i usually would prefer to run material in a range the hotend can comfortably do

hollow bison
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There's also cht like inserts to let you run normal v6/reprap nozzles on volcano and also get benefits of the high flow insert geometry

half cliff
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i have seen some of them, i am just vondering if i would loose any detail when running volcano even with 0,4 or 0,2 nozzle compared to V6 with same nozzles

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the classic problem with hobby home printers, engineer in us tells us to go fast and mainly print mechanical parts, family comes in with requests for detailed decorations 😅

hollow bison
half cliff
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that is on the list of tasks as well - build a drier or buy one on sale

hollow bison
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I have printed very detailed small parts on 0.2 mm nozzle with a magnum plus hotend

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In pla

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But it's gotta be dry

half cliff
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ooh, good to know i dont need to worry about that then

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currently i am using cut apart filament box placed on my heatbed as makeshift drier and it does work surprisingly well

hollow bison
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Yeah with longer melt zone you can also compensate with lower temp of it is a problem

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Because the back pressure from a 0.2mm nozzle is already very high on a normal hotend (eg mosquito or v6) I'd end up running pla at 245-260C (again caution about extra volatiles) but on a high flow hotend for the same part i might do 225-235C instead

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Basically I'd want to lower viscosity more for a 0.2mm nozzle than on larger nozzles with less back pressure

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Even though the volume id be pushing was much much lower

half cliff
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The 0,2 ends up being way more strictive and having way higher pressure loss inside even at lower flow speeds

hollow bison
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Ultimately i did a ton of testing and found my results for detail under 1:1 macro photography peaked at 0.3mm nozzle at 0.06mm layer height

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Smaller extrusions ended up showing enough variance from filament tolerance at lower dimensions to wipe out gains in resolution

half cliff
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whew i would be wondering if i could even do such a thin layer reliably on my machine 😅

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i also assume you used direct drive extruder + hotend and not bowden

hollow bison
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Well mostly to say maybe don't grab the 0.2mm nozzle unless the geometry actually requires it. The 0.3mm offers a surprising bump in resolution over the 0.4mm but is far less finicky as an 0.2

hollow bison
half cliff
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also found out what a huge difference higher quality bowden actually makes, after going from the original cheap generic white one to capricorn

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Anyway, thanks a lot for all your help and advice, i am going to go reinstall the octoprint just to be sure and significantly lower my flowrates

hollow bison
sharp birchBOT
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half cliff
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?solved