I tried to print a model I found online and followed a supports settings profile from a ytube video (ultimaker cura) but the supports ended up as just a mess over the model. I had printed the same model before but at .1mm and it came out better than this .06mm one (I also made it smaller). Im using an Entina Tina 2 printer
#Im having issues with hard to remove/messy supports (its a stringing issue apparently, still unsolv)
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AI Help
It sounds like the issue could be related to the layer height and the support settings for your specific printer. When decreasing layer height, it's important to adjust support settings accordingly to ensure proper adhesion and structure. I recommend experimenting with different support settings, such as support density, pattern, and angle, especially when printing at smaller layer heights like 0.06mm. Additionally, checking the support interface layers can also help improve the quality of the supports. Feel free to reach out if you need more specific help adjusting your support settings for your Entina Tina 2 printer.
WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
The material is just some random pla I bought and 210c
The one at .1 mm also had alot of issues but mainly from the back
Its also really hard to remove the base brim
The supports also really just dont look like the ones in the preview
But that might just be me
this is me trying a third time but at .1
to see if it makes it better
and so far it aint lookin good
That honestly might be part of your issue
The material
I genreally try to stay way from random PLA's etc
But if you're stuck with this one, I think the issue you are epxerienceing are support marks
Not random then
well its the cheapest I found and idrk many brands
Ok, so I would see what rotation Cura recomends
rotation?
Orientation
Right now you printed on the back
I think you might be fine printing on the feet if you enable brim
how do I see what cura recommends
Go to their market place
Type up auto orient
Install that, then I think you right click on your model and press auto orient? Idk
this?
Yes
aight lemme make an account
that another software?
Yes it is
If you want to try it do NOT install from https://orcaslicer.net/; it's not official and might be a hack
Use Github instead
Fascinating
anything I should change for settings?
Ok, I'm not an expert in supports; I never tried mofifing them. So what I'll say right now is to put it on the feet, turn the brim on and hope for the best (that oreitntation minimizes support contact)
Orca has good supports though
place the supports manually?
this is what I get when I slice
line supports is what I selected
the thing is, this isnt what the printer prints
it feels like it just does whatev it wants
the 3rd one im doin is almost finished, Ill send a pic of the arrangement when its done
Almost as if it were trailing material
the arm literally just fell off
maybe it really is just an issue with speeds but idk what to do to fix it
This looks like more than just a support issue.
You have stringing almost everywhere.
What's the filament's recommend temperature?
You might printing too slow or too hot.
at 50 to 150 mm/s its 190 to 210
im printing at 210 I think and the speed default was 100
I cant find a temp option in cura
It should be there...
I don't use cura, but the last time I used it, it was there.
How about quality?
That just has layer height
oh found it
it was printing at 200
it was under material
so you think 150 200 will work better?
Hmmm
.. I would say yes... but try this stringing test first.
Thingiverse
Print this first without any retraction, this will print with a horrible stringing effect.Then work your way up and activate as much retraction as needed until both towers are perfectly printed without any strings between them.Regards
ok
It's so that you don't waste much filament all while getting answer.
do I just print it like this?
Yeap
aight, cya in 40 minutes then
so
it hasnt been the minutes yet
but its def stringing between the pillars
Can I see how much?
one sec
I think ik why
When I checked the printer it said speed was 100
When it shoulda been 150
I manually set it to 150 rn
Ill see if it improves
Better picture
Stop the printer if you suddently hear clicking noises FROM the printer. The clicking noise might be the extruder being too quick.
Its not clicking
And it hasnt made any weird noises
That said, yikes I think the filament is kinda a knot
So ima pause it for a few mins see if I can untangle it
This doesnt look like just stringing tho
This looks like something the printer is doing delibaretly no?
And very much not what the slicer previews
It looks like this
What I also recommend is to also try to mess with retraction settings.
Try 5mm height retraction and 25mm/s retraction speed.
This what its supposed to look like?
It's not
And you think the height retraction settings can help?
Then ima stop print and try that
I cant find just retraction height
And idk if rectraction priming speed is important
Is it perhaps this?
Theres also retraction distance
@nocturne yacht ?
That should be the same thing
Retraction distance is the same thing right?
No the z hop
The z hop is the same thing as height?
As in once it's done printing the area to the next area. Your nozzle would get higher as a way to prevent stringing.
It's said when the retraction is done.
I wouldn't mess with it if most people are not paying much attention to it and mostly blaming retraction speed and height.
But idk what height setting I should change
And z hopping in general is off by default in cura
Atleast the when retracted
Theres these settings
Im just gonna set both speeds at 25mm/s and toggle z hop since it seems a preventative measure, see how it goes
Oh btw when u said the 150mm/s
Wait, they were both off by default?
Is that nozzle speed or just the extruder movement speed?
Extruder movement
Z hop when retracted was off by default
So nozzle should be at 100?
Because I just realized nozzle was what was being changed according to the printer when I set print speed to 150mm/s in cura
And I assume thats the extrusion rate not the movement speed
Oh wait nvm im dumb, I think that was just temp since it changed by itself
The printer really is just ignoring the 150mm/s
After setting speed to 150
(Manually)
Its looking even worse and its barely started....
U sure this what u mean by retraction speed?
Is it this complicated on other slicers?
Ima try orca slicer
Yknow what nvm, printer wont recognize anything from it
Im trying prusa
nvm it doesnt want to recognize anything from that gcode either
this is just so fucked
Try Orca
I alr did
Also what do you mean doesn't want to recognize? Is the file not appearing in the file list?
I selected marlin generic as that is what the tina2 uses apparently
Huh
it does but its as if it was a blank file
Is there a preset for your printer in the slicer
I dont even know if its worth it to try n keep goin
idk what else would be compatible like cura is
I think the printer's sd came with like a proprietary slicer but that thing corrupted itself a bit ago for some reason so I lost the files
Im having issues with hard to remove/messy supports (its a stringing issue apparently, still unsolv)
ENTINA
USER MANUAL TINA2 User Manual TINA2 Software Unpacking Introduction When you receive our TINA2 3D printer, you can watch the VIDEO of how to open the box and install the printer. The UNPACKING INTRODUCTION here will help you learn more about TINA2. SOFTWARE Wiibuilder Wiibuilder installation Connect Printer to Wiibuild
thank you actually
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Another fail...
And none of my stringing tests on any of the settings worked well either
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How old is your filament?
And what's your extrusion speed, retraction speed, retraction height, print speed or travel speed?
All of these settings