First time printing PETG, tried printing different calibration objects (temp tower, retraction tower etc) and they all came out similar to this. Lots of stringing and strange little "tails" appear randomly. Also filament would create goo on the nozzle. Tried to tune most of the settings on the slicer which almost helped nothing. What should I calibrate first?
#Unable to get PETG printed right
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AI Help
It sounds like you may need to first calibrate your retraction settings to reduce stringing. Make sure retraction distance and speed are appropriate for your PETG filament. You may also need to adjust your printing temperature to find the ideal range for your specific filament. Additionally, check your print cooling settings to ensure proper cooling during printing. If these adjustments do not improve your print quality, you may need to further fine-tune your retraction settings or consider other factors such as nozzle cleanliness or nozzle clogs.
WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
** Wet Fillament**
Filaments can be “wet” from time to time and this includes some of the most popular filaments such as PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA and TPU. Because of the hygroscopic nature of these polymers, they absorb water from the air and become “wet”. This can manifest in your prints as blobs, because small bubbles get trapped in the plastic as you extrude.
Another common problem due to filament being wet is stringing and when extremely wet, structurally compromise your prints. PETG, Nylon and TPU are examples of extremely hygroscopic filaments (absorb moisture really quickly). Whereas the most common filaments like PLA and ABS are only mildly hygroscopic.
❗Keep in mind, even if your filament is fresh out of the packaging, manufacturers often use water baths to cool filament in the extrusion process so it might be wet from factory.
?wetfilament requested by: kolman2000#0
I just opened this roll of Overture PETG directly from the vacuum packaging. So it can be wet directly from the factory?
PETG loves absorbing moisture and gets stringy and hard to work with once it’s wet
That’s what the end of the thing says
New doesn’t mean dry
?beddrying
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WC3jvuq-uq8
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/667463307963138058/1285333276504096818/Screenshot_2024-09-16_at_4.08.38_PM.png
What if i told you that you already have everything you need to assemble one of the best filament dryers available? Don't believe me? In this video i'll show you how, with a combination of very simple principles, we can all dry filament without an oven for free.
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Refer to that
Got it, I'll try to bake it
That's amazing, almost considered buying a dryer box
A cheap food dehydrator also works if it has temp control and you buy a thermometer to monitor the temp
Since usually it’s gonna be significantly hotter right by the heater than in the rest of the inside of the dehydrator
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Update: I have dried the filament for 12h at 80℃, however the result seems only slightly improved. Here is what it looks like now:
I am printing this model and set the slicer to the exact parameters as per description: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4546949
Thingiverse
There are two different sized towers, one with 8 temperature sections, one with 6 temperature sections. Each temperature section is 7mm tall. The temperature changes for layers are 5C for the 220-245 and 220-255. The temperature changes for layers are 2C for the 226-236 and 224-238. Termperature changes occur immediately after the bridges are fi...
Seems like stringing and oozing is still a problem (garbage builds up on the nozzle and smears onto the print randomly). And there are gaps in walls even after I have calibrated flow rate by printing two-wall cube and measure for 0.8mm. Any suggestion for improvement?
Also I am using 4mm retraction right now (use 0.8mm normally when printing PLA). Should I increase it even further?