#FrankEnder (Sort of Back)
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
i basically revived his project
Eh I was gonna come back around to it soon
Had to figure out what my roadmap was
Got a clear idea of what I want to finalize it
nice
are you sure it prints fine though
I changed almost no settings between my ASA and PC-ABS
Well look at my pics
I have a lot of pics
My forum has a lot of answers
that ambrosia stuff is so much cheaper then any other pc/abs
u sure its legit
and
did you just do the whole belted z thing in pc-abs
thats what it looks like
I said ASA-CF for belted Z
Again, all red parts are ASA-CF
Black are PC-ABS
And yes it’s legit
Ambrosia is a very solid brand
I’ve used their stuff for this build and it was great
And I’m about to make a very large order for more stuff from them
$25/kg is amazing for PC-ABS and it’s real
Polymaker’s is way more expensive
Planning to place a large order because I have used their materials alongside other experienced users in this server and trust the quality
well i need to buy the asa-cf first
Can just use normal ASA
I just already had the dark red ASA-CF and chose to use it
Cause I liked the color
Really most stuff you can just use PETG for
Oh fr?
Just motor mounts need to be ASA at the least
PC-ABS if you plan to run them fast
So pc abs for motor mounts and petg/asa for the rest
asa cf is so pretty
But petg/abs isn’t as stiff as asa cf
Yes for sure
ASA-CF is unnecessary tbh
Also I didn’t even use it for any components that really needed it
I just really liked the way it looked
Oh
sorry for invading your post just need to show appreciation for asa cf
I was only ever saying what I used since you stated you knew stuff about printer modding and custom builds
What about petg-cf
Oh yeah it rly does
kinda useless but it’s pretty
I welcome this beauty
you haven’t seen the wire management 
💀
it’s peeking around
yes that blue wire is my tachomeyer
?
belts shouldn’t touch printed parts
I mean yeah
i’d focus on the design before filaments
make your own project post let’s not clog up kols
@spiral narwhal whats ur toolhead design
Got toolhead from Kevin. Extruder is a ProtoXtruder
wheres his toolhead
all i see is the idex one
oh also, are the steppers higher voltage to be ran at 400000 accel
oh its probably just the stinger toolhead
Nope
is the ender 3 meanwell psu good enough
then what is it?
cause i wanna be safe
this is the thread
#1260037420083314759
no thats diffrent
yeah
All the parts are Kevin’s
Besides my tray that is specifically meant for a DP5 MCU
Aux fans are stinger yeah
All good, it is a bit hard to find info in forums since you can’t use the search function
yeah
I’ve got a lot wrong with my printer right now
And it needs fixing
This was using improper settings and cooling among other things
And I don’t think my X was properly tensioned
Kevin’s fastest on almost this exact same setup was 2:28
@knotty path
Thanks for responding so promptly
I believe in you
One day you will have that sub 2:30 boat
Ah ok.
All good just it explains in there what the situation is on that
This wasn’t all-out cause I assumed it wouldn’t do all that great anyways
I already needed to sort out board cooling and such
And I knew PLA wouldn’t be able to handle the flow I needed
get yourself a sunon pf40281bx
31cfm of flow 🗿
Just out of curiosity how would something like my setup fair
wdym by that
The sunon vs the roborock fan and breakneck thing
wait lets take it to ur thread
What motors did you upgrade to compared to the stock ones to get better speeds and accels as well as going rails and belted z? @spiral narwhal
I'm also upgrading my max to a frankenduct and already have a dual z so prob not gonna go belted
Stepper online Nema17 2004S
For all of em?
Yes
What kinda work did the install take? I assume you're running klipper too
Software side I mean
I suggest getting PC-ABS if you plan to run them at higher amps
But for software nothing hard
I print ASA mostly but I'm not gonna mess with normal amperage I dont think
Can the stock board run it? I've got a laptop running klipper and the motors all connected to the stock board
That should be fine but I’d suggest asking somebody with more hardware knowledge
Aight thanks
I don’t know how well the stock board will respond
Klipper side I assume you just changed the config basically?
Just get an skr mini
Or an octopus
I'm trying to avoid as much work as possible. At this point idk if just replacing the board with an skr mini or whatever would actually be as easy as swapping the motors over and figuring out how the power supply connects
Usually via screw terminals
Ah not an issue then
As for the rest, any work I'd need to do there?
Other than setting the correct amps and voltage per motor
@fickle stone
Motor phases might not be the same so you may need to swap some pins around on one side of the motor cables
Doable
Aight awesome so I might just swap boards then
@spiral narwhal are you running any specific board by chance?
It’s simple
Fly DP5
i'm afraid he isn't running a specific board. only a vague one. 
DP5 gang, except kevins hotend mosfet failed open
even better. failed closed 😭
yooo nice
My main issue right now is wobbling on the motion system and extrusion consistency
is your 2209 overheating still
Doing a VFA test
I’ll solve that once I do the e-box
oh youhave you tried out the feet mod?
But for right now just keeping them lower power
what lh does for his y on his e3 before stinger
I have it on the stock feet
Oh
Nah
I’m doing what Kevin is doing
extrusion coming right
With the extrusion across the front
1.6 is your cap rn right
We so back 
Shots fired
more like shitographer
But yeah running on 1.5A at the moment
how fast does that get you?
I need to do an E-box so I can get more cooling and move some stuff off the printer
Print my new X double shear if you are using the old one
The old one literally doesn't work
lol
Okay
I need to install the silicone nozzle brush
The carto survey touch really doesn’t like a dirty nozzle
It also like going bonk on the soft bed
Okay yeah survey touch doesn’t work on smooth bed
Every touch is out of tolerance
works on mine
it's worked on every surface ive used
What’s your tolerance?
Cause for me it’s 0.01 and every touch was like 0.03 or more apart
Also just realized I didn’t clean my PEI so this likely won’t stick unless the NPA is absolutely goated
Cause this thing is dusty lol
Yeah every touch just now was under 0.006
After going back to the PEI bed
So it didn’t like the smooth plate
how do I do I check the touch tolerances
It would be in the cartographer section IIRC
Since its survey touch tolerance
NPA is goated
FrankEnder (Sort of Back)
Pfft
this is on textured. imma try smooth now
That’s hilarious
Weird
Must’ve just still had gunk on my nozzle
Right now I really just want to get FrankEnder to a point where I can happily move on to a new project and just let it crank out prints
Since I’ve taken a hiatus on printing as of lately
Printed maybe 3-5 things in the last 2 months and haven’t touched my printers beyond changing the filament
VFA test mostly shows on diagonals between 100 and 150mm/s
Above that they mostly start to go away
On straight X and Y they’re much less present
Need to sort switching to UHF and fixing my motion system
Underextrusion near the top and a lot of wobble
You can buy 4 bearings and 2 belts
And print a papilio lite
@fallow swallow
