#DoodleCube Lindwurm Build
1 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Right
So currently the XY&Z are able to move freely
Y rails are satisfying and sturdy. Also act as a brace for Z screws
Holes will mount belt tensioner assembly and Y block to extrusion
Dual carriages for Y, nice
Wont the Z axis need to move slow since the xy frame is top havy cause of the y stepper motors ?
and hope for you the 3d prints are super stiff so your gantry doesn't swing...but maybe it's just right/enough !?
what is the goal? Portal printer with multiple portals?
Might just be large format
Goal is for large format prints, ye. Mostly automotive
Eventually I hope to get 2000mm rails
Nah. Normal flow rate will be fine. The rails and mounts are chunky enough to handle above ender 3 speeds
well then keep us updated ^^
Y belt tensioner finished
belts will rotate on steppers pointed vertical, and I will need to design some pretty chunky motor mounts.
Now, for the reccord, the railfac is a less expensive version of my AAM Aero design, which again was much nicer. I originally planned to use normal rails with plasma cut steel or aluminum brackets. The railfac however will be easier to modify and scale in X and Y. Many of the original designs in the aero were tested on the railfac and have been replaced or improved.
Either multiple or a custom one
Keenovo does offer custom heaters
Zone heating might be good here
Blast shield π?
used my sermoon to test Y
View of idler
Also, I am using a cut of used 6mm gt2 belt that is from an old laser cutter I built that was tangled, so it's quite rough.
The Y axis works but has issues that need addressing.
Here is the motor block. I plan to add endstop mounts onto the motor blocks. On my TronXY Veho rebuild I put the endstops on the Idler side which just means more wire is needed and it's less organized, so putting the endstops and motors on the same end is obviously cleaner and plain better.
The endstop mount happens to be in an easy to modify spot
Also, as you can see the belt tensioner block is too thin, causing the belt to pull in. This must be corrected.
New belt tensioner block
new motor block with endstop
I would like to use closed loop steppers for this project. Unfortunately I believe that will be a later upgrade. What are good open loop steppers you all recommend?
Who am I kidding we all know the answer is LDO
LETS GO SHOPPINGGGGG YAAAASS
BOM for AAM Railfac (1Meter version)
Frame: OpenBuilds 20X40 Extrusion: $45.98 for 2 1500mm lengths of extrusion and $15.29 for 1 cut of 1 meter 20X40 extrusion, total of $61.27 for the frame extrusion.
Duet 3 Main Board 6HC $276
E Series Steppers in set of 3: $16.53 via stepperonline. already have both Z motors.
Product description: Package includes: 3 x 17HE15-1504S Electrical Specification Manufacturer Part Number: 17HE15-1504S Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper Step Angle: 1.8deg Holding Torque: 42Ncm(59.49oz.in) Rated Current/phase: 1. | Product model: 3-17HE15-150
i will need more GT2 belt. will go with 6mm cause the stresses involved are not significant tbh
probably will need more cast brackets and hardware.
Oh actually
Y should have brakes
Now- I have a few ideas for the main electronics compartment. I could try to fit it all in on the sides. the frame will be 1500mm long while motion system is 1000mm. so i got 250mm on each end to work with, or i can cheat it one way or the other. OR I could mount the electronics above the machine on a wall or something. that way the cables to the gantry wont be in the way- which is something more to consider here cause the whole assembly moves around a whole meter in Y.
there may be two electronics compartments- one for the beds and one for the motion system electronics and hotend
i do not know how to power all these beds and motors withing a single breaker...
420 mNm stepper, 2 m long 6 mm GT2 belt. At 115 N the belt experiences 0,5% elongation, here we have 65 N so a bit lower, that gives us 0,3% elongation, so 6 mm of elongation if you use full stepper potential. If you tolerate only 0,5 mm elongation for example, then you're limiting yourself to using 1/12th of the stepper torque
I guess this is one of the few times a drag chain and proper wires for it make a lot of sense
Aye good points from both of ye! I will use 9mm belts and I should design a 2nd tensioner block with a drag chain mount.
Temporary braces until I can get the proper extrusion for the frame.
For 9mm belts you will need beefier hardware
Get "GT3" (2MGT on Filastruder), it's thicker and hence it's stiffer (by a lot, at 115 N it has only 0,33% elongation compared to 0,5% of GT2, both numbers for 6 mm wide)
Well, the belt tensionsers on here already are too thin and don't line up properly so I'm making new ones.
You'll want live shaft idlers instead of "normal" ones
I haven't had any issues with the 9mm belts on the VEHO rebuild
I might look at the design of that to adjust the idlers
You might need to elaborate on live shaft- I'm a modix tech i never used those before
If you're getting typical idlers, they'll have bearings with ~300 N dynamic load rating. 9 mm 2MGT will want up to 150 N of tension. Since it's a 180Β° turn, the acting force will be 300 N.
Let's assume load is equally shared between bearings, so 150 N per bearing.
That's 8 millions of rotations till predicted bearing failure. Might seem like a lot but that's only 320 millions of linear movement in axis. Assuming half of the printer movement is done in X axis, with 0,4 mm LW, 0,2 mm LH you're looking at 60 kg till you need to replace all idlers. And that's assuming perfect working conditions.
Do you have an example of a live shaft idler?
Ah I see
And then 2 bearings in a pillow block
Use a normal idler, these tend to chew up the belt
Aye
So it would seem that the hole spacing on these rails is 22mm not 20. I will probably have to reconsider the frame design.
So, if you enlarge each of these holes by 2 mm and use washers, everything will fit?
New frame. 2040 on each end, 2020 down the length of the rails on the outside holes, and will have crossbeams down the center
Redesigning X axis motor mount to position the belt directly above the X axis rail. First prototype does not fit, adjusting to correct that
Flip the pulley on the motor, position the belt as close to the stepper face as possible
Thats what I plan on doing
I'm actually short on motors so this is one of the old Y motors I was using to test Y
My goal is 5 fresh 48mm for each axis
New X parts
Y drag chain mounts look alright
This is not the drag chain I will be using, I will be buying a larger one
Drag chain will need to fit ZA,ZB,X,Hotend,Therm,PCollingFan,HCoolingFan,Probe,Extruder Motor.
Somehow...
If I use 8 conductor wire it might work
I may beef up the frame also
Look at IGUS cables. Those are rated for use in a drag chain and available in a lot if configs
Now sits on 6 rubber feet
So Railfac is consistent with my normal naming convention but I may rename it the Lyndwyrm as this is kinda a proper reinterpretstion on that original concept
Also X is in
Belt needs replaced
I might honestly redesign the X Idler and motor mount
Cause I designed them without considering the hight of the toolhead...
Mh belt path looks like it could get pinched at the ends of travel?
It's kinda rough, here I'll take another picture
It doesn't jam but it's fugly and I hate it
Usually you want a straight belt path on your mounting points, or so I have been told
Lol yeah, I fixed the Y so it's nice and straight
Yeah looks not ideal
Looks like I need to raise the motor mount and idler
Looks easially fixable though
Yep, new parts will sort it
Or redesign the x mounting plate
Yeah, I'm still trying to figure out my toolhead design
Not sure if I want a EVA-esque design or similar to my own LGX-ACE mount
Try flipping the belt mounting 180ΒΊ
π€ I haven't thought of that before, I might try that
or carve a belt channel in the existing design
If that makes sense
ye
i like the idea of inverting the mounts so the belts are slung under the extrusion. good use of space thats usually wasted
Or I could design a new Idler and re-use the X design of the V-minion
So many good ideas!
Right so with these braces in I can begin designing the bed. I plan on using machined MIC6 aluminum. I will be designing the bed and sending it to a machine shop. I think keenovo does custom bed heaters
Description: This listing is for payment purpose only. It is NOT for any particular Keenovo Silicone Heater. Please do NOT make purchase before contacting us, or it will be cancelled. We must have messaged a lot when we send you this listing. Please only make payment as instructed by one of our sales representatives. I
It will be some time before I do this, as it will be expensive. I want about 2-4 complete bed plates with heaters. That way if anything goes wrong in the future I have spares. Realistically I will probably get 2 first, then a 3rd if I think it makes sense to.
is this a gantry slinger
Yes, moving portal
i hate it
Why? What else would you do?
Love itπ
A lack of appreciation for portal printers π
Also you could easily||-ish|| add a second portal
real easy yeah π , like that one from autodesk forgot the name
everything moves
the bed doesn't move
positive Y the gantry moves, negative Y the bed moves
Bro its a meter
Aye thanks, this is one of my best builds yet
I'm really happy with the rails I selected for y, very smooth
You can flick it at the top and it coasts
I ordered these motors yesterday and got them today at 10:50AM. These are 48mm. Now, this is me, so within a year or so there will be a closed loop or full servo upgrade.
Alright, how should I go about heating the bed? i was thinking a single custom bed heater, but sections may be more ideal.
(and easier)
sections because you can indvidually heat parts of the bed
and its probably more easibly sourceable
Thats going to be a pain to solder up
Or you get one of the screw terminal ones
You still have 7 pins left for power and ground
a few more if you choose a z probe thats not 4 pins
ngl my excuse is i get to drink, listen to music and solder 70 pins some wonderful upcoming November Sunday 
Go for it then
this is why I assemble Nyoomies myself x3
Music + Soldering = relaxing time
Speaking of, you think the pins on a D-sub connector are large enough for heater power? Thinking 60-80watt
"high current loads such as heaters not connected via D-sub connection"
i
maybe would not
?awg
Check the rating, I would spread it over a bunch of pins
FUCKIN SEND HER BUD
YEAAAHHH
Well it's in, tested the pins, none are shorting, solder joints are serviceable. 18 gauge wire is adapted to 20 gauge solid for a cleaner joint on the motor pins
I will admit, it's not perfect, and I may redo it in the future, but it's not shorting, and a temporary situation like that often becomes the permanent. Maybe once I switch to closed loop I'll have an excuse to fix it right
Portal bus cable connection- allows you to disconnect everything on the portal from the main bus cable that then plugs into electronics box
-- UC320-1--
Universal control box 300x200mm
Right, so I am at the point where I can start working on the control system. I intend to use a separate power box containing PSUs and the control electronics
box
Toolhead bracket!!
Bed frame is complete, need to print the mounting blocks.
Bed mounted
(1 of 4)
Also tested an easy transportation solution. Portal will lock, and the entire fame can be lifted off its feat an roll on coasters, like a dolly
Tested single roller, works great, so once the 2nd one is mounted it should be sturdy enough.
That being said though I will be careful as a single parking lot pebble may change that
Also, i did this a while back for Y and have one for Z & X i am yet to print
I am still so undecided on how to wire this thing. The beds will probably be controlled separately, but there are still two Y motors and two Y endstops to control so I am making plugs for each and then I can design multiple main busses for the wiring.
shouldve gotten leveling casters
Leveling casters?
has wheels and rubber stops/feet to lift and lower
i use them on my printer, i can hardly move it
Shouldn't the wheels allow you to move it?
||I understood what you meant
||
This thing is long, it sits on TPU feet that are 100x20x25mm. I don't intend to move it around much, plus in dolly mode I don't have to bend over to move it
I will probably use leveling casters on one of my other projects though
I can see a powerbrick strapped to this and wheeled through a convetion while printing
nah a 500ft long power cord dragging around the convention tripping everybody up
Waiting on connectors & board
Swapped Y belts with lead screws
4 m of belts had a bit too much play?
Aye, wayy to wiggly
Testing a different belt system, motors on Y blocks. Speeeeeed
I'm gonna get new photos soon, but simply put my plan now is two separate gantrys I can swap between. One for laser cutting and one for 3D printing. Bed will be removable
Frame will be absent of most electronics except for the bed
You could just keep all gantries on the machine and attach the one you need to the belts
or screws
you were so close to servobelt
but omega drive is also good
now you need double shear tho
Servobelt?
A short video of our new belt drive. Performance makes it competitive with linear motors at far less cost. Particularly useful for packaging, NC wood routers, NC water jet cutters, NC plasma cutters and all large format automation.
servobelt is honestly so cool
Nice
Still a super awesome project
nice to see it coming together
you are running RRF right?
should be easy enough to pass on the print coords from the slicer to the printer and reassign the active bed heaters to whichever will have the print on it
LyndWurm because its so long?
I love seeing this printer with other stuff for scale
same, the grey/orange also gives it a great industrial feel
Hope you got an ultrawide screen for slicing
Aye, btw while you are all here, my probe is acting all funky. Wiring is correct according to sources on Duets docs & fourm posts. But I'm getting solid red and unresponsive after stsrtup
Probe was configured via reprap configurator
Wait..
Blue & yellow may be backwards
Still solid red..
I haven't used a crtouch so no clue sadly
I know there's some differences between it and bltouch
well it seems there is no info on it, so in the trash can it goes, and an actual BLtouch is on the way. normally I would actually try to solve the issue, but its just an old used probe. Had this thing on my VEHO for years, even after it crashed bad twice
It is also a laser
please make sure to stay safe
Don't worry, I know what im doing with lasers. Did lasercutting before 3d printing actually
Unprotected fiber ain't nothing to scoff at. Especially this particular head
Can't remember the wattage, but it cuts through 1/2inch like butter
K so, the reason the CR touch wasn't working:
6HC has 10 IO ports that are marked to be used for Z probes and other IO stuff. I had mine in IO3, but moving it to IO4 worked, because apparently only IOs 4-7 are PWM compatible
Wiring is almost done actually. Just thermistor and heater. Feels weird to be this close to done.
Tiny little test boots for testing portal electronics without full track
I am still doing research on this issue, but i have a known good thermistor here thats reading 159C at room temperature for some reason
could it be the wrong sense resistance in the config?
new therm works instantly
The table shakes lmao
Also I want to do another version of the blocks with more fixing points to the portal
It lives

I made a macro for nozzle change, which will be handy since I plan to use this for the TPU kei truck mudflaps also. Jogs to top corner for easy access and prompts for maintenance complete before jogging back to park and cooling down
I got a bunch of mosfets for the next 3 bed heaters. I don't actually know how much the control input can take on these shitty amazon modules, but I got like 10 of em so I can find out the dumb way. Can any output be a bed heater signal provided its being externally supplied and driven via mosfet?
You can trigger the mosfets with fanports for example
So yes
Rad
Which modules?
Awaken ye thread
So as of last month I have moved
I have a house, which has garage and 3d printing space, which is fantastic for me cause I can do stuff now
Lindwurm will have a dedicated space, and i plan on running drop down ethernet for it
Im starting to wonder if the portal mounted electronics is dumb or not, and I might redesign the Y to accommodate metal laser cut brackets, but I donno.
First things first, I am preparing to get this thing running again and I am going to run some tests
Oh yes it also needs part cooling
I have no idea if I should migrate the electronics from the portal to the frame or not
Its running rn so I dont want to touch it, but maybe during an overhaul someday
Realistically the portal when this is all working only has 18 conductors that dont terminate on the portal and those are bed therm and control wires plus power. Otherwise I have my toolhead, fans, touch probe, two Z and one X motor plus X endstop
And thats 31 conductors
I might kill the independent PSU box idea and just run two PSUs and dedicate one to bed power
Its like 1200 watts if I tried to preheat all the beds at once
DoodleCube Lindwurm Build
Railfac is not as cool as Lindwurm
I want to find out how fast i can make this gantry move
Glad you are back with this awesome project
I am going to start construction of a MK2 portal. I want the portals and frames to be mostly independent entities
I would say the theme of the lindworm is swinging big heavy gantries as fast as possible for long distances. Next portal will have aluminum cut brackets for mounting to the rails....or maybe I could just drill extrusion...I donno, custom plates would look much nicer
I want to use a core XZ system to reduce motor count. I want to copy the bed motion system of the Antithesis 3.1 but I dont have a good visual on how it works.
Also I need to build an Antithesis
I will order the aluminum parts with the metal lindwurm rail truck parts
Is this just a T-bot?
Is it?
Holy shit thats what its called
Thats it
I kept thinking it was just some inverted core xy
T-bots are more of bent up H-bots
Better graphic
Well alrighty
But aye I think this is what im going to use for the next portal
I still need to decide on how im going to design this. Should I prioritize rigidity or lightness?
Depends on the target speed and load
lindwurm aluminum brackets are go
My intention is two full rail trucks consisting of two plates and two linear bearings. I could also just do one plate per side if I need to. extra holes for motor blocks, whatever they may look like
I may or may not have borrowed the toolhead from the mk1 portal for a laser/plasma table build. I will need to order more of em. The mk2 portal will not need the toolhead plate, I am proceeding with the T-Bot XZ design.
Still waiting for brackets from send cut send. Once I get those the rest of the new gantry will start.
Oh yeah. This time I know what im doing. Its going to be a T bot. The extra extrusion there is going to be where the board sits. There should be room for the top of the end effector to pass. The short side extension is for cable management for communication to the beds/board power.
This might be a good opportunity to learn about canbus
One board could do motion and another just worry about the beds
Designed motor blocks, printing em tonight
Oh we are cooking
Here is the old V1 motor block. I will be using heat inserts again to install the idlers as I had no issue last time. Tension should be identical
K so a few things: while it fits its tight because I forgot to add .30mm of tolerance to the motor mount. I also am considering making a cavity for the endstops because I think if I do better cable management I can afford the 4 extra conductors to deal with.
New motor block is pretty nice. I will get photos tonight. I need to stop myself from parting the MK1, it still has a place for large volume prints and slow printing. I either need to order a new toolhead from send cut send or install a different toolhead. What are some good recommendations for a cartesian toolhead? I suppose I can modify a good candidate if its intended for corexy
Im gonna make new belt anchors I think. I shouldn't have to regauge the belt width to swap portals, thats cringe, but I think I will just keep using the new gantry anyway so eh
T-Bot gantry block on the portal side. Were doing two rails for X
This is basically a narrow and tall CNC
but fast
Duel rail Tbot gantry. Still have minor deflection if you try to force it when its at the lowest, but at the high where the toolhead will be at Z0 it should be OK I think
Ideally these parts would be metal instead of just ABS-CF
Still need to square it up
I have fixed some of the deflection
Talking about deflection when pushing in X?
pushing in Y
pulling/pushing the gantry with the Z fully down
no deflection i can visually detect in X
and that is backdriving the motors also
At this point it might be mostly extrusions bending
In Y you don't have this much plastic taking the load, I think
Ok yeah this thing is mint. Designing EE parts now.
