#DoodleCube Lindwurm Build

1 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)

slate bough
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Right

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So currently the XY&Z are able to move freely

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Y rails are satisfying and sturdy. Also act as a brace for Z screws

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Holes will mount belt tensioner assembly and Y block to extrusion

vocal raven
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Dual carriages for Y, nice

gaunt dagger
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Wont the Z axis need to move slow since the xy frame is top havy cause of the y stepper motors ?
and hope for you the 3d prints are super stiff so your gantry doesn't swing...but maybe it's just right/enough !?

simple island
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what is the goal? Portal printer with multiple portals?

vocal raven
slate bough
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Goal is for large format prints, ye. Mostly automotive

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Eventually I hope to get 2000mm rails

slate bough
gaunt dagger
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well then keep us updated ^^

slate bough
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Y belt tensioner finished

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belts will rotate on steppers pointed vertical, and I will need to design some pretty chunky motor mounts.

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Now, for the reccord, the railfac is a less expensive version of my AAM Aero design, which again was much nicer. I originally planned to use normal rails with plasma cut steel or aluminum brackets. The railfac however will be easier to modify and scale in X and Y. Many of the original designs in the aero were tested on the railfac and have been replaced or improved.

normal gull
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How are you doing the bed?

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Muktple heaters I assume

slate bough
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Keenovo does offer custom heaters

vocal raven
slate bough
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Quick test of Y1

dull ingot
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Blast shield πŸ’€?

slate bough
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used my sermoon to test Y

slate bough
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View of idler

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Also, I am using a cut of used 6mm gt2 belt that is from an old laser cutter I built that was tangled, so it's quite rough.

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The Y axis works but has issues that need addressing.

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Here is the motor block. I plan to add endstop mounts onto the motor blocks. On my TronXY Veho rebuild I put the endstops on the Idler side which just means more wire is needed and it's less organized, so putting the endstops and motors on the same end is obviously cleaner and plain better.

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The endstop mount happens to be in an easy to modify spot

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Also, as you can see the belt tensioner block is too thin, causing the belt to pull in. This must be corrected.

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New belt tensioner block

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new motor block with endstop

slate bough
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I would like to use closed loop steppers for this project. Unfortunately I believe that will be a later upgrade. What are good open loop steppers you all recommend?

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Who am I kidding we all know the answer is LDO

slate bough
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LETS GO SHOPPINGGGGG YAAAASS

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BOM for AAM Railfac (1Meter version)

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Frame: OpenBuilds 20X40 Extrusion: $45.98 for 2 1500mm lengths of extrusion and $15.29 for 1 cut of 1 meter 20X40 extrusion, total of $61.27 for the frame extrusion.

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Duet 3 Main Board 6HC $276

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E Series Steppers in set of 3: $16.53 via stepperonline. already have both Z motors.

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i will need more GT2 belt. will go with 6mm cause the stresses involved are not significant tbh

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probably will need more cast brackets and hardware.

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Oh actually

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Y should have brakes

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Now- I have a few ideas for the main electronics compartment. I could try to fit it all in on the sides. the frame will be 1500mm long while motion system is 1000mm. so i got 250mm on each end to work with, or i can cheat it one way or the other. OR I could mount the electronics above the machine on a wall or something. that way the cables to the gantry wont be in the way- which is something more to consider here cause the whole assembly moves around a whole meter in Y.

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there may be two electronics compartments- one for the beds and one for the motion system electronics and hotend

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i do not know how to power all these beds and motors withing a single breaker...

vocal raven
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420 mNm stepper, 2 m long 6 mm GT2 belt. At 115 N the belt experiences 0,5% elongation, here we have 65 N so a bit lower, that gives us 0,3% elongation, so 6 mm of elongation if you use full stepper potential. If you tolerate only 0,5 mm elongation for example, then you're limiting yourself to using 1/12th of the stepper torque

normal gull
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I guess this is one of the few times a drag chain and proper wires for it make a lot of sense

slate bough
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Aye good points from both of ye! I will use 9mm belts and I should design a 2nd tensioner block with a drag chain mount.

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Temporary braces until I can get the proper extrusion for the frame.

normal gull
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For 9mm belts you will need beefier hardware

vocal raven
slate bough
vocal raven
slate bough
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I haven't had any issues with the 9mm belts on the VEHO rebuild

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I might look at the design of that to adjust the idlers

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You might need to elaborate on live shaft- I'm a modix tech i never used those before

vocal raven
# slate bough I haven't had any issues with the 9mm belts on the VEHO rebuild

If you're getting typical idlers, they'll have bearings with ~300 N dynamic load rating. 9 mm 2MGT will want up to 150 N of tension. Since it's a 180Β° turn, the acting force will be 300 N.
Let's assume load is equally shared between bearings, so 150 N per bearing.
That's 8 millions of rotations till predicted bearing failure. Might seem like a lot but that's only 320 millions of linear movement in axis. Assuming half of the printer movement is done in X axis, with 0,4 mm LW, 0,2 mm LH you're looking at 60 kg till you need to replace all idlers. And that's assuming perfect working conditions.

slate bough
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Do you have an example of a live shaft idler?

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Ah I see

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And then 2 bearings in a pillow block

vocal raven
slate bough
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Aye

slate bough
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So it would seem that the hole spacing on these rails is 22mm not 20. I will probably have to reconsider the frame design.

vocal raven
slate bough
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New frame. 2040 on each end, 2020 down the length of the rails on the outside holes, and will have crossbeams down the center

slate bough
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Redesigning X axis motor mount to position the belt directly above the X axis rail. First prototype does not fit, adjusting to correct that

vocal raven
slate bough
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I'm actually short on motors so this is one of the old Y motors I was using to test Y

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My goal is 5 fresh 48mm for each axis

slate bough
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New X parts

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Y drag chain mounts look alright

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This is not the drag chain I will be using, I will be buying a larger one

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Drag chain will need to fit ZA,ZB,X,Hotend,Therm,PCollingFan,HCoolingFan,Probe,Extruder Motor.

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Somehow...

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If I use 8 conductor wire it might work

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I may beef up the frame also

normal gull
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Look at IGUS cables. Those are rated for use in a drag chain and available in a lot if configs

slate bough
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Now sits on 6 rubber feet

slate bough
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So Railfac is consistent with my normal naming convention but I may rename it the Lyndwyrm as this is kinda a proper reinterpretstion on that original concept

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Also X is in

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Belt needs replaced

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I might honestly redesign the X Idler and motor mount

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Cause I designed them without considering the hight of the toolhead...

normal gull
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Mh belt path looks like it could get pinched at the ends of travel?

slate bough
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It's kinda rough, here I'll take another picture

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It doesn't jam but it's fugly and I hate it

normal gull
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Usually you want a straight belt path on your mounting points, or so I have been told

slate bough
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Lol yeah, I fixed the Y so it's nice and straight

normal gull
slate bough
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Looks like I need to raise the motor mount and idler

normal gull
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Looks easially fixable though

slate bough
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Yep, new parts will sort it

normal gull
slate bough
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Yeah, I'm still trying to figure out my toolhead design

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Not sure if I want a EVA-esque design or similar to my own LGX-ACE mount

normal gull
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Try flipping the belt mounting 180ΒΊ

slate bough
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πŸ€” I haven't thought of that before, I might try that

normal gull
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If that makes sense

slate bough
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ye

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i like the idea of inverting the mounts so the belts are slung under the extrusion. good use of space thats usually wasted

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Or I could design a new Idler and re-use the X design of the V-minion

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So many good ideas!

slate bough
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Ah yeahhh

slate bough
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Right so with these braces in I can begin designing the bed. I plan on using machined MIC6 aluminum. I will be designing the bed and sending it to a machine shop. I think keenovo does custom bed heaters

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Keenovo Flexible Heaters Store

Description: This listing is for payment purpose only. It is NOT for any particular Keenovo Silicone Heater. Please do NOT make purchase before contacting us, or it will be cancelled. We must have messaged a lot when we send you this listing. Please only make payment as instructed by one of our sales representatives. I

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It will be some time before I do this, as it will be expensive. I want about 2-4 complete bed plates with heaters. That way if anything goes wrong in the future I have spares. Realistically I will probably get 2 first, then a 3rd if I think it makes sense to.

slate bough
balmy plinth
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is this a gantry slinger

vocal raven
balmy plinth
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i hate it

vocal raven
normal gull
smoky geyser
normal gull
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Also you could easily||-ish|| add a second portal

simple island
balmy plinth
simple island
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the bed doesn't move

balmy plinth
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positive Y the gantry moves, negative Y the bed moves

balmy plinth
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lol

slate bough
smoky geyser
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Jokes aside, its a really nice printer

slate bough
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Aye thanks, this is one of my best builds yet

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I'm really happy with the rails I selected for y, very smooth

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You can flick it at the top and it coasts

slate bough
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I ordered these motors yesterday and got them today at 10:50AM. These are 48mm. Now, this is me, so within a year or so there will be a closed loop or full servo upgrade.

slate bough
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Alright, how should I go about heating the bed? i was thinking a single custom bed heater, but sections may be more ideal.

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(and easier)

balmy plinth
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sections because you can indvidually heat parts of the bed

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and its probably more easibly sourceable

slate bough
normal gull
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Or you get one of the screw terminal ones

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You still have 7 pins left for power and groundvaulthah a few more if you choose a z probe thats not 4 pins

slate bough
normal gull
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Go for it thenyay

primal dagger
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this is why I assemble Nyoomies myself x3
Music + Soldering = relaxing time

slate bough
balmy plinth
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"high current loads such as heaters not connected via D-sub connection"

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i

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maybe would not

normal gull
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Check the rating, I would spread it over a bunch of pins

slate bough
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YEAAAHHH

slate bough
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Well it's in, tested the pins, none are shorting, solder joints are serviceable. 18 gauge wire is adapted to 20 gauge solid for a cleaner joint on the motor pins

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I will admit, it's not perfect, and I may redo it in the future, but it's not shorting, and a temporary situation like that often becomes the permanent. Maybe once I switch to closed loop I'll have an excuse to fix it right

slate bough
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Portal bus cable connection- allows you to disconnect everything on the portal from the main bus cable that then plugs into electronics box

slate bough
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I'm gonna make a github page for lindwurm

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Really do go ewue neough πŸͺ±

slate bough
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-- UC320-1--

Universal control box 300x200mm

slate bough
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Right, so I am at the point where I can start working on the control system. I intend to use a separate power box containing PSUs and the control electronics

slate bough
slate bough
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Toolhead bracket!!

slate bough
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Ready for a toolhead

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Going to start with 4 ender 3 beds

slate bough
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Bed frame is complete, need to print the mounting blocks.

slate bough
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Bed mounted

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(1 of 4)

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Also tested an easy transportation solution. Portal will lock, and the entire fame can be lifted off its feat an roll on coasters, like a dolly

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Tested single roller, works great, so once the 2nd one is mounted it should be sturdy enough.

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That being said though I will be careful as a single parking lot pebble may change that

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Also, i did this a while back for Y and have one for Z & X i am yet to print

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I am still so undecided on how to wire this thing. The beds will probably be controlled separately, but there are still two Y motors and two Y endstops to control so I am making plugs for each and then I can design multiple main busses for the wiring.

balmy plinth
slate bough
balmy plinth
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has wheels and rubber stops/feet to lift and lower

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i use them on my printer, i can hardly move it

normal gull
slate bough
# balmy plinth

This thing is long, it sits on TPU feet that are 100x20x25mm. I don't intend to move it around much, plus in dolly mode I don't have to bend over to move it

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I will probably use leveling casters on one of my other projects though

slate bough
vivid burrow
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cnc hand truck with lift function karppog

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looks great so far

normal gull
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I can see a powerbrick strapped to this and wheeled through a convetion while printing

surreal vortex
slate bough
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Waiting on connectors & board

slate bough
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Swapped Y belts with lead screws

normal gull
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4 m of belts had a bit too much play?

slate bough
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Aye, wayy to wiggly

slate bough
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Testing a different belt system, motors on Y blocks. Speeeeeed

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I'm gonna get new photos soon, but simply put my plan now is two separate gantrys I can swap between. One for laser cutting and one for 3D printing. Bed will be removable

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Frame will be absent of most electronics except for the bed

normal gull
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You could just keep all gantries on the machine and attach the one you need to the beltsvaulthah

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or screws

slate bough
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Hmmmmmssttt

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HMMMSSDTTTT'VVNTTT

slate bough
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Fuck ya all motors on gantry

surreal vortex
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but omega drive is also good

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now you need double shear tho

slate bough
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Servobelt?

vivid burrow
balmy plinth
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servobelt is honestly so cool

slate bough
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Board IN

slate bough
vocal raven
normal gull
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Still a super awesome projectyay

vivid burrow
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nice to see it coming together

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you are running RRF right?

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should be easy enough to pass on the print coords from the slicer to the printer and reassign the active bed heaters to whichever will have the print on it

slate bough
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Oh nice!

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I will look into that, should be useful

slate bough
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Aw yeeeeeahh

slate bough
normal gull
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LyndWurm because its so long?

slate bough
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Aye

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The goal is eventually 2.5M

slate bough
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Installing probe and I/Os

vocal raven
vivid burrow
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same, the grey/orange also gives it a great industrial feel

normal gull
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Hope you got an ultrawide screen for slicingvaulthah

slate bough
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Aye, btw while you are all here, my probe is acting all funky. Wiring is correct according to sources on Duets docs & fourm posts. But I'm getting solid red and unresponsive after stsrtup

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Probe was configured via reprap configurator

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Wait..

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Blue & yellow may be backwards

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Still solid red..

vivid burrow
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I haven't used a crtouch so no clue sadly

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I know there's some differences between it and bltouch

slate bough
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well it seems there is no info on it, so in the trash can it goes, and an actual BLtouch is on the way. normally I would actually try to solve the issue, but its just an old used probe. Had this thing on my VEHO for years, even after it crashed bad twice

slate bough
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It is also a laser

simple island
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please make sure to stay safe

slate bough
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Unprotected fiber ain't nothing to scoff at. Especially this particular head

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Can't remember the wattage, but it cuts through 1/2inch like butter

slate bough
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K so, the reason the CR touch wasn't working:

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6HC has 10 IO ports that are marked to be used for Z probes and other IO stuff. I had mine in IO3, but moving it to IO4 worked, because apparently only IOs 4-7 are PWM compatible

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Wiring is almost done actually. Just thermistor and heater. Feels weird to be this close to done.

slate bough
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Tiny little test boots for testing portal electronics without full track

slate bough
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I am still doing research on this issue, but i have a known good thermistor here thats reading 159C at room temperature for some reason

surreal vortex
slate bough
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new therm works instantly

slate bough
slate bough
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The table shakes lmao

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Also I want to do another version of the blocks with more fixing points to the portal

normal gull
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It livesyay

vivid burrow
slate bough
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I made a macro for nozzle change, which will be handy since I plan to use this for the TPU kei truck mudflaps also. Jogs to top corner for easy access and prompts for maintenance complete before jogging back to park and cooling down

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I got a bunch of mosfets for the next 3 bed heaters. I don't actually know how much the control input can take on these shitty amazon modules, but I got like 10 of em so I can find out the dumb way. Can any output be a bed heater signal provided its being externally supplied and driven via mosfet?

normal gull
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So yes

slate bough
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Rad

slate bough
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Awaken ye thread

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So as of last month I have moved

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I have a house, which has garage and 3d printing space, which is fantastic for me cause I can do stuff now

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Lindwurm will have a dedicated space, and i plan on running drop down ethernet for it

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Im starting to wonder if the portal mounted electronics is dumb or not, and I might redesign the Y to accommodate metal laser cut brackets, but I donno.

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First things first, I am preparing to get this thing running again and I am going to run some tests

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Oh yes it also needs part cooling

slate bough
slate bough
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I have no idea if I should migrate the electronics from the portal to the frame or not

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Its running rn so I dont want to touch it, but maybe during an overhaul someday

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Realistically the portal when this is all working only has 18 conductors that dont terminate on the portal and those are bed therm and control wires plus power. Otherwise I have my toolhead, fans, touch probe, two Z and one X motor plus X endstop

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And thats 31 conductors

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I might kill the independent PSU box idea and just run two PSUs and dedicate one to bed power

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Its like 1200 watts if I tried to preheat all the beds at once

slate bough
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DoodleCube Lindwurm Build

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Railfac is not as cool as Lindwurm

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I want to find out how fast i can make this gantry move

normal gull
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Glad you are back with this awesome projectyay

slate bough
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I am going to start construction of a MK2 portal. I want the portals and frames to be mostly independent entities

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I would say the theme of the lindworm is swinging big heavy gantries as fast as possible for long distances. Next portal will have aluminum cut brackets for mounting to the rails....or maybe I could just drill extrusion...I donno, custom plates would look much nicer

slate bough
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I want to use a core XZ system to reduce motor count. I want to copy the bed motion system of the Antithesis 3.1 but I dont have a good visual on how it works.

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Also I need to build an Antithesis

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I will order the aluminum parts with the metal lindwurm rail truck parts

slate bough
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Is it?

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Holy shit thats what its called

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Thats it

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I kept thinking it was just some inverted core xy

vocal raven
slate bough
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Huh

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Well alrighty

vocal raven
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Better graphic

slate bough
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Well alrighty

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But aye I think this is what im going to use for the next portal

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I still need to decide on how im going to design this. Should I prioritize rigidity or lightness?

simple island
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probably want the optimal middle ground

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not sure how you'd determine that though

vocal raven
slate bough
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lindwurm aluminum brackets are go

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My intention is two full rail trucks consisting of two plates and two linear bearings. I could also just do one plate per side if I need to. extra holes for motor blocks, whatever they may look like

slate bough
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I wuv u send cut send

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Mwah 😘

slate bough
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I may or may not have borrowed the toolhead from the mk1 portal for a laser/plasma table build. I will need to order more of em. The mk2 portal will not need the toolhead plate, I am proceeding with the T-Bot XZ design.

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Still waiting for brackets from send cut send. Once I get those the rest of the new gantry will start.

slate bough
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Hmmm

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Odrive.

slate bough
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Mint.

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New portal time

slate bough
slate bough
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Oh yeah. This time I know what im doing. Its going to be a T bot. The extra extrusion there is going to be where the board sits. There should be room for the top of the end effector to pass. The short side extension is for cable management for communication to the beds/board power.

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This might be a good opportunity to learn about canbus

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One board could do motion and another just worry about the beds

slate bough
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Designed motor blocks, printing em tonight

slate bough
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Oh we are cooking

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Here is the old V1 motor block. I will be using heat inserts again to install the idlers as I had no issue last time. Tension should be identical

boreal hawk
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oooh

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me like

slate bough
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K so a few things: while it fits its tight because I forgot to add .30mm of tolerance to the motor mount. I also am considering making a cavity for the endstops because I think if I do better cable management I can afford the 4 extra conductors to deal with.

slate bough
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New motor block is pretty nice. I will get photos tonight. I need to stop myself from parting the MK1, it still has a place for large volume prints and slow printing. I either need to order a new toolhead from send cut send or install a different toolhead. What are some good recommendations for a cartesian toolhead? I suppose I can modify a good candidate if its intended for corexy

slate bough
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New gantry and Y in

slate bough
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Im gonna make new belt anchors I think. I shouldn't have to regauge the belt width to swap portals, thats cringe, but I think I will just keep using the new gantry anyway so eh

slate bough
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T-Bot gantry block on the portal side. Were doing two rails for X

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This is basically a narrow and tall CNC

slate bough
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but fast

slate bough
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Duel rail Tbot gantry. Still have minor deflection if you try to force it when its at the lowest, but at the high where the toolhead will be at Z0 it should be OK I think

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Ideally these parts would be metal instead of just ABS-CF

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Still need to square it up

slate bough
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I have fixed some of the deflection

vocal raven
slate bough
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pulling/pushing the gantry with the Z fully down

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no deflection i can visually detect in X

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and that is backdriving the motors also

vocal raven
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In Y you don't have this much plastic taking the load, I think

slate bough
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that is fair, true

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also it will sit higher once the toolhead is installed

slate bough
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Ok yeah this thing is mint. Designing EE parts now.

slate bough
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Board is in