#(dead thread) Zandr 3
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
125 is still cable management lmao
i did that with the spool on top
lol i gotta tune PA badd
endstop mount designed and printed
nice and secure now
my extrusion is looking quite inconsistent on prints
that's interesting
diagonal-ish vfas
this has to be extruder related, right? or it wouldn't be happening so evenly along all axes
think so, check the gears
i disassembled the extruder and everything looks fine in there
didn't get up-close and personal though
maybe wiggly connector?
there is no connector on the E motor
non-round bearings?
in the extruder?
idk, they look like circles to me.. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
maybe my ptfe tube is too short?
super bummed i lost my old cad files
but drawing a gt2 profile accurately from its drawing makes me feel like a genius
Ngl I just draw belt path
.38 one side 1 mm on the other
Hit thin extrude
it appears i forgot to make sure my stepper and extruder meshed
rookie mistake
and the current print is coming out so clean i'm almost mad 😭
how do i attach the belt to the x carriage
what is the best way
my home-grown idea of "just squeeze it" isn't very good
You can either squeeze with a matching locking interface (so the teeth have grooves to go into)
Or
Make a loop. Teeth to teeth and then squeeze them together, use the loop to attach it.
Either method will work.
is that screw going through the belt?
nvm i can't read
i'm doing something close to the 2nd i think
i suppose i should test it more properly
You could but that's just an example, generally, I've heard it's not recommended, especially when it comes to belts that are only 6 mm wide (no meat left)
Something like this also works great
I'm pulling 100N on it right now with no issues
what is that exactly
can i have it
This is for X right?
yes
Hmm there's probably a better way to go about it for X
thank you
Actually, that might be an older version. I'm just gonna link the onshape
Honestly, I just bolt on a "clamp"
?
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
do you mean for this to require an account
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
What about now
still does
I guess it just be like that🤷
ack
i can access the endex onshape
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i think i'm going to try to build a protoxtruder
i'm getting concerning behavior from this metal hgx
is it normal for moving the gear to be so difficult?
i'm paranoid i messed something up reassembling it the other day
I mean the stepper has a certain amount of holding torque when not powered
It shouldn’t be HARD to rotate
From the video it seems like you’re applying a good amount of force though so maybe you’ve got it overtightened
And the extra force is from it compressing the filament too much
Belt tensioning
To have proper belt operation it needs to be operating under tension according to specification.
Most printers use GT2 belts and this'll be reference point here. For Gates GT2 6mm wide the operating tension is 30±5N.
To achieve that, we use tensioners to pull the belt tight.
To measure belt tension we can use a phone with Spectroid app or other audio spectral analyzer. Then proceed with hte following steps:
- start the app and zoom in using 2 fingers to show the range from 0 to ~200Hz
- Put the phone microphone next to the middle of belt section and pluck the belt like a string
- Observe the peaks showing on the app. The peak with the lowest frequency is the one you're looking for
- If frequency is too low, pull the belt tighter. You can shorten the belt span (distance between 2 contact points on which you're plucking the belt and measuring frequency) if expected frequency is below 100Hz
To calculate required frequency use
?belt_freq [belt span in m] [belt width in mm if you're using different than 6mm].
This will show the range of frequencies that you should be in.
To check tension based on frequency, use
?belt_tension [frequency in Hz] [belt span in m] [width in mm if other than 6mm]
WARNING: Not all printers are meant to handle the tension like this and due to this belt tension can cause parts to bend or stepper shafts to break. Proceed with caution.
Damn it wrong command
I’d imagine something like that would probably make things not move smoothly
Kinda looks like you missed a bearing
when i recorded that there was no filament inside
i checked a lot of times but i guess i'll check again
if i lost one somehow the ones from my bmg should fit
It won't
:/
Bmg uses 5mn shaft, hgx use 3mm
how many bearings are there supposed to be
There are two mr63zz ball bearings holding the reduction gear in, and two needle bearings, one in each drive gear
i counted 3 ball bearings i think
There are 4....
and 2 needle bearings
Pretty sure only 2 ball bearings
now you have me doubting myself 😒
I've fucked with HGX enough to not doubt myself this time 
Oh okay well shit
the perks of using designs that rose from the depths of china
Nah it should still be smooth
it looks like all the bearings are there
both ball bearings on the gear connected to the stepper
it only becomes difficult to move when the stepper is screwed in all the way
know what i'm gonna choose to believe this is not a problem for now
screwed into the old stepper it isn't so bad
so it might have something to do with the torque of this new one
simply observing the gears as i push them i can't see anything problematic
it's only strange because i'm not sure that it was always like this
why is it always the most cartoonishly stupid things that undo me
ziptied the cable in too stressful a position, it unplugged, and now my cartographer doesn't turn on
anyway where can i get an omron d2f around here
sigh welcome back
my ender bed is flatter than most so it's fine for now
i'll build a klackender if my carto is truly dead now
trying to print a protoxtruder wish me luck
#1344091947022942329
i think my nozzle might be partially clogged
i'm kinda regretting buying volcanoes instead of v6s
it's harder to change them this way
eh this current print is coming out kind of normal
maybe the high ASA temps flushed out whatever was in there
i'll keep the proto parts on hand if i need them but i won't build it yet
i can get one from the lab when i go back next week
At the scale of an extruder, shrinkage doesn't matter
lmao
Shrinkage is usually around 0.5-1%
so what's the deal with this idler then
try from the other side?
the deal is that it goes in from the other side
thank you

the fit is still too tight for the gear to spin freely
i need to reprint it
using proto will shave 30 grams off
belted z inspired design
it's sort of like my first attempt but a lot more robust
and before you tell me i need chamfers yes i know
well the hold isn't particularly strong
i can undo it with my hands
i have thickened the clamp piece but that didn't really help
where do i go from here?
i'd like to see how other cartesian toolheads do it
you know
now that my cartographer is (possibly) dead i might be able to try out reprapfirmware
i wonder if that's worth it
Do you want to see how I do it?
yes
I like this one even more
Much more compact
I'm running this right now at 100N and it's holding on great
(maybe that's why my idlers are dying 😂 )
Nice, my design is similar, but uses the act of pulling the belt holder into the tensioner to bite down on the belt
Similar to belted z tensioner
Just shifting the weakpoint to another component
i don't understand how this one works lol
are both ends of the belt in there?
I'm guessing the other end just goes into a similar holder
That one is for tensioning
yes it warped
As the belt pulls, it pulls the block with it and clinches down harder
but i put it in the enclosure and it was fine
get ur rails alligned first 😭
I can’t cuz my holes are wrong there why I got a cf bed to do the holes right
need to make an ali order but i'm scared of the tariffs
The tarrifs aren’t active maybe?
Stuff doesent seem more expensive
also im switching to kalico
and done
it's gonna be impossible to fit these clips in here
Just make the slot big enough to fit the wedge in, then feed the belt through and pull it tight
yea
For something like this I recommend having it in two pieces
i did do that
the first time
if i make it wide enough i can reuse the toolhead mounting screw instead of adding more holes
i wonder if this is ok
this wedge clamp is indeed a great hold
i got this warning after switching to kalico, what am i supposed to replace this with
getting it out might be impossible though
min_power
it has fan power normalisation
so if your fan starts at 20% you set min_power: 0.2 and it'll scale the fan to 0-100%
so what's really 21% to your fan is gonna be 1% in the slicer
why
pulley won't stay on the darn shaft
unless i put it upside down
but then i can't double shear
gotta get some loctite i guess
Locktite 
i wish the d cut section just went lower 
btw how do you take the belt out of these clips???
Which
the angled ones
I'm finally getting retaining compound
o okay
This is belt after 1 week of 100N tension
my belt didn't go all the way through though; i made the opening shorter but forgot to make the clamp shorter :/
This method is very gentle on the belt
What's 100N in hz, 300mm path
looks like i'm finally rid of that old belt hook 
i have to design a tensioner that can go tighter than this and take a 20t idler
the clip is a little off center though
ya got some funky belt angles going on there
oh god you do NOT want to attach your belt like that
this will make your X steps variable across the X axis
it was like that before
i mismeasured and made the clip off-center
i'm going to fix it
and that's not good
yeah i know
you see how on my belt attachment it goes all the way inside the extrusion
i know how it's supposed to look
Ew
forgot to invert dir pin and x carriage fell off
no bearings fell out thankfully
this is what i get for being too lazy to print an endstop
soon i will install awd y
as long as kevin has cad for 6mm belts bc i really don't feel like spending more money on this thing
ok i printed a fixed belt clamp
note to self: utter destruction of old clamp was not necessary to remove belts! the clips can be pushed out from their slots from the front with a pointy object!
also
my heatblock is too big for this toolhead
it keeps annealing the part of the carriage where it touches lol
kind of fascinating
now it's a mm off in the other direction 😭
Why do the parts look like that
the camera is really close
But still
but still what?
tariffs
I was gonna buy 9mm belts but didn’t because of this
looks nice and isn't so hard to move by hand anymore
gotta re-run input shaper
don't have carto or ebb anymore so i'll screw my adxl board into the nozzle
after i reposition my pulley
https://a.co/d/cezieWD
What would the difference be for something like this instead?
that's not gates
Ah, just different material type and stuff. What does it affect in terms of going with something like that or gates? Like is it generally stronger and grippier
Gates belts are generally stiffer. Less "stretchy"
Like, very noticably so
Good to know, thanks
The fake gates i got seem to be great
bro has the fences belts
Why tf would you get fake gates😭
Gates are so cheap as-is
They were for belted z
X and y are gates obv
Not anymore
So would this be a good price? 1M for $6.99?
Looks to be US based so.
And it's long enough to be usable.
Eh, from mellow on ali they are like 3 dollars a meter
Oh, I was seeing the $40 for 2M up above lol.
Ali pricing is boned rn
where
if it has now been boned it will not be un-boned till trump changes his mind
let's take a moment to remember where this printer once was
Ali, mellow, 6mm is like 3.50 a meter, 10mm is like 4.50
yeah i can't find that
the speeds i run are still barely faster
they definitely would be were it not for the safety of my poor y motor
I couldn't find anything either.
I feel like if that's the case, 6.99 for a meter of some real stuff isn't that bad all things considered.
Mellow has them for like 7 dollars a meter rn but when tarrifs aren't on its cheaper
Can you link?
That's still almost $15 per meter for the 9 mm wide gates belt (which is what we were discussing)
So the option I presented is still cheaper
At least for now, until tariffs reset, if they ever do...
Yea, the issue with the mellow listing is it ships from the US, so they include the tarrifs
This other place also ships from the US
I mean you'll still have to pay shipping but
Then it's not a bad price for rn
i think i would prefer something like this over a CAN board
not for this printer though
i wish there was a 0.5mm zs plus
time to test this ASA-GF
went OK for no tuning or configuration
definitely super overextruded
stiff as hell
it doesn't feel like it should be possible for plastic to be this stiff
moment of silence for all my wasted threaded inserts
i'll try to get them out
nvm this is not worth it
i miss my carto.. i wonder if it's fixable
it's pretty easy tho
i don't have proper iron tips
Put a screw in, heat it with a lighter, pull out with pliers
only on thingiverse
i will try converting protoxtruder to single gear
So...just grinding the teeth of the pom gear of one of them?
no
i'll replace it with a bearing
like this
i'm also thinking it might be time to design a toolhead
i'm not a fan of how tight this heatblock fits in yavoth
i have the ability to laser cut acrylic
i wonder if that could help in a toolhead somehow
you can make cool extruder front covers and put LEDs behind it
If you really want to run pt1000, or just get some ntc and call it a day
i am using a pt1000 right now
Yea, ive found that pt1000 on normal boards has pretty inaccurate temp readings
It made my pla smoke at 200c
It was close to 30c off
what mainboard?
fly dp5
I also have a weird hotend so that little bit more temp meant a lot
uses standard 4.7k sense res, not bad not terrible
if you don't go above like 280C it should be fine
i would like to
ime 4.7k pt1000 is good about there, 2k is about 350C, but amp is nice
alright i'll get the amp
there's ntc thermistors good to like 400C
Where haha
dyze and mellow
lmao all these ali amps are such shameful copies of the adafruit one
they even took the damn listing description
Ah yea, cartridge ones
the dyze is m3
I mean... i could kinda use them, not really
the $5 pt1000 with mica wires is still my fav
haven't broke once, readings as steady as the first time
i have that
i was spurred by this post to check my ebb36
hmm
the max31865 on it works fine but my heater heats up by itself
fixed my carto
connector was borked so i soldered the wires straight to it
gonna hot glue for strain relief
ender style
benchy collection (all but purple and one of the white from this printer)
i don't want to think about this anymore
I feel that
i think the belt is finally figured out
i was wondering why i could feel a little bump when i moved x
i just spotted a bearing that fell out of my carriage that one time
oh yeah I like that
What in the print quality
do you have anything constructive to say
all you've done in this thread is vaguely hate
i know it's not good, i didn't tune the filament
I mean
doesn't matter aslong as the part is strong its fine
Look at stratasys printers e.g. they don't print pretty but they print well enough
true true sorry
re-counted bearings, re-greased x carriage and no more bumps in the movement
boy the cartographer is too close to the bed
i snipped off the protruding leads so it's usable for now but i guess i should still be reprinting the mount
:|
against my better judgement i continued to tighten my nozzle past the point you would reasonably consider it snug, thinking "is this too far? i don't want it to snap again", continuing anyway, and thus snapping the nozzle
this isn't catastrophic like last time because i have a properly sized heatblock but now i gotta get this damn thing out
diy v6 nozzle! 
oh no
I'm half horrified, half impressed
is there any reason not to use a mk8 heatsink
You just have yo make sure all of your parts match like heatsync, heatbreak, and heater
it's bad
how so
smooth structural break only held by setscrews, form factor and mounting is meh
so what's the best kind of heatsink
V6 styles are tried and tested🤷
my v6 heatsink is kind of crushing my heater wires
also the fact it (mine has dragon-style screws) mounts from the top is a little inconvenient
toolhead plate
heatbreaks have gotten so efficient that you can just dump the heat in the toolhead/extruder body without a fan
Lol
Assuming you have a metal toolhead
well, that's the best kind
wym inconvenient
you want the v6 clamp?
the mosq one is nice since you can add a net to it and then the heatsink becomes a rigid part of your toolhead
i've heard of it
but didn't end up with nf crazy 
block i have is similar to uhf mosquito
But if you don't do that, the two bolt mount from the top are woefully insufficient
i'll just keep the current one
aliexpress taking longer than expected 
i am actually considering no longer using a uhf length hotend
pros:
- filaments melt better
- faster printing possible
cons: - harder to tune
- nozzle swap is a total PITA
- three (3) separate things in the heatblock threads to hot tighten
- loss of z axis space
- worse vibrations because longer
if i'm being real i never cared about attaining the world's fastest speedbenchy
the happy middle is using a single block that's long enough
tuning let's be honest is not an issue, and I've used blocks from mk8 to supervolcano
but I agree on the million things to hot tighten being pain
if you could find one with one handed nozzle swap screws that isn't a million dollars sure
lancer long
should have specified but no chc
but why
seems healthy..
I mean it only died because I forgot to undo the connectors and ripped it off the printhead
but otherwise it can do 350
okay
can it really go to 350 safely?
max temp in its listing is 300 and that's what most resources say you shouldn't exceed with a standard chc and ntc100k
not trying to fafo with temps hotter than i solder
Why do you need 350
nylon
I mean under regular conditions due to the position of the thermistor the cores themselves get close to 400C while heating up
i have one
I was using it a lot at 320C, not a lot at 340C because the pc was better at 320
¯_(ツ)_/¯
good night sweet prince.
took it apart yesterday to pack for the move.
maybe when i'm finally in my new house, https://discord.com/channels/167661427862142976/1367906259549819030 (which i now possess) will help you run again

thank you to everyone who helped out and chatted here during the months this project was active
i'm gonna be deleting my discord soon, so while i'm not done with this printer, there will be no further updates here
(dead thread) Zandr 3
Best of luck going forward 
Hope you eventually return
i hope i never have to return to discord, but if something ends up forcing me to make a new account, i will return to this server
wish you the best 

hey guys
it's me
i'm done with moving; my printers and i are now in a new state; and i have... an everest of work ahead of me to ever print again
lmao i can't rename this
i should maybe have thought of that
Welcome back
What shall it be? (Or just make a new thread and link this one in the first message)
No worries