#3d printer failing to print my model!
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I'm glad to hear that the printer worked well with a different model. Based on your description, it seems like the issue may be specific to the model causing the print to fail. Without seeing the images provided, it's a bit difficult to troubleshoot the specific issue with the print. However, common reasons for failed prints include incorrect settings, bed leveling issues, slicer settings, or model design errors. I recommend checking these factors and ensuring they are set correctly for the problem model. Feel free to share the images for further assistance.
it prints with other models just fine(that were quite smaller) or printed in the center of the plate
so I recallebriated each of the corners
just enough so I felt a small bit of friction in the paper
hopefully that with yield better results
also see its printing off the bed a bit on the side
which is for the supports
im hoping the print doesnt fail because of that
im more concerned about all the bubbles.
3 buibbles there
whole lot of bubbles here
tells me the z offset is bad or the build plate is dirty
could be massive overextrusion too but then it would have stayed onthe bed and not come apart that way
yeah i have no idea why the smaller print works so flawlessly
maybe it was just cause I didnt calibarte the corner things
hopefully that fixes it
smaller print worked better probably cuz it has a lot less potential to fail
Yeah don’t think it worked
Idk maybe the problem is my design
whats going on here
Where is that
No idea
Maybe it’s way to close?
If it was way too close I feel like the little print would fail too
I think ima slow it down a lot
Maybe 0.28 extreme fast is too much size in between each layer
going to
0.2
200mm per second
hopefully that helps
my bet is still on z offset being too low until i see otherwise
shouldnt it have some friction with the paper?
no thats just to get it started
less then that
z offset is when u eyeball it from first layer
can i send a photo
uve sent 4 already why ask to send a 5th?
I eyeballed it
and it looks like its almost touching the plate
is that were its meant to be?
Your defo right, Looking at this video I have the same exact problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WmS4Z9VopQ
So you know you need to tune your Z offset for great first layers but how do you know when it's right?
In this video I'll quickly show you what your looking for when trying to dial in your Z offset with examples of what you might be seeing on your 3d printer so you'll know what you need to do to improve things.
**10% Discount on your first F3D...
mmmmmhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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🤔
did you eyeball it from a first layer test? or just set z to 0 and see how far the nozzle is from the bed
I grabbed a piece of paper
Lowered it till I felt a bit of friction
do what the video tells you to do #1283973180825927770 message
?paperlevel
While often recommended paper "leveling" also often causes issues for people. The reason is simple - it is a very inaccurate way of levelling your bed. Theres no defined units, you're working off feel alone, and that is highly subjective. It's not easy to explain through words - "just scraping the paper" can mean something to one person z and something completely different to another.
What paper levelling is useful for, is getting the bed at the same height away from the nozzle in all four corners of the bed. As long as you can consistently make sure you have the same amount feel for each corner, your bed should have minimal tilt in relation to your gantry.
It may be higher than it should be, it may be lower than it should be. But you can easily correct that - print something, look at the first layer, and just adjust the levelling knobs accordingly. Since your bed should not be tilted anymore, you can easily turn each knob, in the exact same increments to raise and lower it, or adjust Z offset on your machine or slicer. This of course, assumes your bed is not warped.
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guys
like im still having the problem
i reset all the settings
redid all the leveling and setup
and its still not printing well
Like I’ve been trying for jours
Just to get this printer working
Sob 😭
I’ve been messing with the z offset for so long
yeah check the elegoo discord/reddit. they all had z offset issues lmao. amazon actually has the 4 series flagged in their system with that known issue. they let me return mine outside the return period lol
I can return mine
you can eventually get it to work tho. if you havent already, upgrade to the latest firmware. you have to update the MCU and the touchscreen separately. make sure you read the instructions very carefully bc if you do it wrong, or in the wrong order, it will brick your printer and you'll have to reach out to elegoo for them to ship you an emmc to reflash everything
It’s already on latest
Whatis mcu
I believe everything is updated
which model do you have? do you have the leveling wheels to tram the bed?
did you do Screw_tilt_calculate?
lmao the paper doesnt do anything that's just a starting point
right im telling you that that does not work
I think the overall z axis is the issue
Or the nozzle or something
My nozzle is blue now
you need to actually tram your bed. easiest way to do that is screw_tilt_calculate. the elegoo discord has the code that you can put in to be able to do that. this will tell you exactly how many turns to turn each leveling wheel so that they are flat.
then you need to do the live-z offset workflow
you print this slowly. and live adjust your z offset until you see the correct results. you do this while it is printing
Thank you so much
Can you slice it for me
I’m printing petg
and ofc if it gives you too much trouble, return it and snag an sv06 or a1 mini instead, if possible lmaoooo
Okay 👍
? @noble birch
I want to minimize the things I can do wrong
haha im not by a pc or i would
Okay I’ll go on default 0.2 settinggs
How do I slow it down
just print it at like 50mm/s
okay im about to print
ok cool. when you change the z-offset while it's printing, make sure you make very tiny changes. like +/-0.05mm if possible
this is how to interpret the results
Idk what’s going on
Ima restart the print
Yeah…
Look at this
Like what is going on
I think something is mechanically bad
A
Hmmm
Judging from all the z offset you've been doing, it's probs not that
What uhh z thing do yoy have
Linear rails, 2 or 1 screw e.t.c
I have
CLean your bed
Elegoo 4
Wash with dish soap and water
It’s perfectly clean
He has Elegoo 4
no
:O
the thing is not sticking anymore, it usually means its dirty
and you can't use isopropyl alcohol to clean that thing off. That thing doesn't remove oils
I’ll clean it cus I have tried everything else
you need an emulsifier to have the oil rinse off which is what dish soap is
The nozzle is like picking up the filament
then figure it out tomorrow
50mm
hmm, that seems odd
This printer is advertised at 500
try lowering it even further for the first layer
that's just the peak velocity
and sometimes it usually causes the stepper motors to skip even before getting there
they mean the speed
try lowering it further for the first layer
nah
you can print really slowly at the first layer then go ram at the second and next ones
I can only change it in the digester
if you look at benchy world records, they also print the first layers REALLY REALLY SLOWLY
lower it for the first layer
your slicer should have a first layer speed setting
something like this
do you have the correct temps?
250 should print petg okay
not great but it should do it
try bumping it up though
I have cura softeare
afaik even cura has this
and is it just this print or every and other filaments
just search around their settings
rn they're literally just trying to print a single layer rectangle lmao
Ima stop this rectangle
yeah once it fails, p much start over lmao. mine failed at the borders multiple times
too low
Okay
.
next time, just raise the z-offset while it is printing
looks like too low Z and idk how well should PETG stick to the bed
Bruh I raised it up a bit and seems like it’s looking a lot better
👍
ye
I think that the gaps are just from the filament not sticking
When I took it off it turned into string :I
I’ll increase bed temp
should be arounf 80°C or more
Alr I’m running 85c
Let’s see how it goes
85c higher nozel.
Time to test on a actual print
stills lots of space
in between each lin
well its super out of focus
but the top should be completely flat and with no spaces between the lines
theres lot of space
when i took it off
it just turned into string
time to print what ive been trying to print
dropped down speed to 24m per second on first layer
then 300mm afterwards
hopefully that works
Refund. Get bambu
does anyone know how i would repair it
cus
something is wrong
prob something small
what is it we are repairing again?
i thought it was ur z offset initially what changed?
@green wasp
What are you on about? 😂
he said his printer wont work
like
it doesnt work
without making a massive plastic mess in my room
from all the stringing
its just overall trash
i jsut bough random chinese filament
im hoping thats not a problem
i shouuld prob try pla
im printing really slow rn
maybe it needs to warm upo
what brand
Thats a contradiction. #1283973180825927770 message Thats still the state of things currently?
i slowed it down a lot
and just let it print
even though i saw stringing and stuff
somehow its working
maybe after a few prints the printer will get better
thats not how it works unfortunately
its gonna take 12hours to print cus how slow i made it
hopefully it works lol
good luck
hopefully it starts working i think the issue is i didnt wait and wherever i saw stringing i cancled it
Faith will not magically make it work
Troubleshooting
A number of troubleshooting guides exist online:
• Simplify 3D Print Quality Troubleshooting
• Rigid Ink Print Quality Guide
• Institute of 3D Printing Cheat Sheet
Calibration
Calibration and tuning can help with all aspects of print quality.
Extruder calibration should be done only once, and then again if you change any hardware on your extruder setup (new tube, gear drive, different motor, etc).
Flow calculation should be done for every filament, even different colours from the same brand.
A number of calibration and tuning guides exist online:
SCROLL UP
where to?
a
hewfg
i bet i can bump it up to 200mm a second now
it would prob run fine
I read the thread....did you actually do anything people have told you? Z offset calibration, bedcleaning etc?
yes
If u look at all the images i got the z offset really good
i believe the issue is petg, just isnt the easiest material to print
I should of just bought some pla+ and called it a day
Update: I beliveve the problem is stringing to a extreme! Thats why it worked when i slowed down the speed to 50mm a second
im gonna do reserach and preventing that
did u set PETG as a profile?
did u dry the PETG?
again what brand of PETG?
did u set the max flow rate and all that for the PETG?
it has to be printed slow. like 8 - 12 max vol flow
thank you so much for the help
oh
i prob should of went with pla+ if it has to be printed slow
im watching videos on this hopefully by my next print ill be able to go atleast 150mm
80mm looks like a good speed
thats prob why my prints were falling
I was running like 350mm
im now doing 50mm and getting quite a lot of it
so i guess i have to do more improvements
i got mine back when it was $16 and it was on sale for $12. i had zero problems with it
ye
what speed u printing at?
petg will string if wet. and its just overall hard to print wiht good quality.
300
but its about vol max flow
not really speed too much as a factor.
how do i maek it dry
i didnt spill water
see how slow im printing, but the spool is feeding quite quickly
cuz im maxing out vol flow rate. its hitting 18 nearly the whole time
PETG absorbs water over time. like all filaments. except it absorbs it descently fast. unlike PLA, which in my experience. take months. and even using a year old spool most of the time u cant tell its even wet.
if u have a dehydrator u can use that. or use ur print bed. theres a guide on it
?beddrying
What if i told you that you already have everything you need to assemble one of the best filament dryers available? Don't believe me? In this video i'll show you how, with a combination of very simple principles, we can all dry filament without an oven for free.
....................................................................................
poke a hole at the top. for airflow to escape. u want to create an oven with airflow.
do i need that lol
can i use the microwave 🤔
Hell no😅
I also have another question
in the future im gonna be using tpu
for a go kart bumper
u think i can do that? with this printer
100% u will need to dry TPU if u dont print longer than a few days
kart byumper yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh as long as its not going to bake in the sun
plastic cant do that lol?
ima buy pla
so. baking sun heat. will deform pla 100%. buuuuuuuuuuuuut 45c is the glass transition temp.
which is 113.
u ever see what happens when u leave a pla print in the car during summer?
although it does depend on the thickness.
ASA can bake in the sun all year long no problem
is asa bendable
fuck no
even with low infill\
its a hard plastic
just like the others
@green waspapparently TPU is actually a moderate amount of heat resistance. not as much as PETG. but not as low as PLA
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Alr guys
I printed it
It worked 🎉
But lots of stringing
And buttom is ruined
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Any help?
for one lower your z offset some more, the lines shouldnt be that visable/at all visable, and curved bottoms dont look good when that close the bed and that agressive
Okay
I had similar issues
What printer are you using
Neptune 4
Same
U have to tune z offset
Clean the nozzle
Slow down the speed a lot
That’s what worked for me(kinda)
I tuned the z offset so their is a little bit of tension on the paper
I will fix the nozzle
Would a different printer be better ?
I don’t really know that much cus this is the only printer I have
I did that and it wasn’t correct
It was too low when I did that
Bring it up a little bit
You have to find tune it
Ok it has to be perfect
Just took the apart the nozzle
Majors clog
😭
Pain
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Close to perfect lol
Yeah mine prob has a clog or needs replacing but I’m too lazy lol
I broke it lol
Back to Amazon
The clog was way in their
You just broke the nozel right? The other stuff is harder to fix
Also it’s prob good ur replacing it cus you’ll get better printing performance
The nozzle was mega clogged
Like bad so I couldn’t get it off
Tried heating it still wouldn’t come off
So I used my drill still wouldn’t come off
Did u buy a used printer
No
So then I used my bigger drill for concrete
And I wasn’t strong enough to hold the thing in place with pliers
And I broke tf out of the machine
So I’m retuning to Amazon
Oh lol
How much did you pay
For the new one ?
Yea
I got a flash forge 5m for $520
Nice
You can get the elegoo Neptune 4s for like 100 bucks lol
That’s why I got mine
Yeah it costed me eternal pain and frustration
So I said fuk it I’ll get a better one
I got lucky and mine kinda worked
That’s how mine was at first
Then it kept getting worse
Oh lol
So I said I’ll buy a nice one I really like this hobby
What do you print
Ima comp sci major I need one anyways
I need more things to print
Comp sci? That’s mainly coding. 3d printing is more general engineering
I was printing a hello kitty to give it to my girl but not no more
lol
I know I took the class because I wanted to
I also printed a trash can for my car while it worked
Oh wow
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I got rid of that printer
Got a new one way better
Actually enjoy printing now
mine is working for now