#A baby using a machine

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

spiral fogBOT
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AI Help

To check the pins on your Sovol Sv06 Plus, you will need to carefully inspect each pin for any damage, bending, or misalignment. Make sure the pins are securely connected to their respective ports on the printer. If you notice any issues, such as loose connections or damage, you may need to gently adjust or replace the pins. Be sure to power off the printer before making any adjustments to avoid electrical shorts or damage. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with this process, it is recommended to seek assistance from a professional technician or the manufacturer for further help.

sharp geyser
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Hello

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Issues:

  1. The fan in power supply is not aligned properly, so I can’t put screws in
  2. Filament sensor doesn’t work
  3. The nozzle seems to be clogged
  4. Lines on the build plate (can’t really fix that though)
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Little summary:

I’m a beginner and this is my first 3d printer, people suggested me the sovol and I’ve been having issues, so I refunded the first unit to get another, and I got another, was working fine until more problems occurred, and I gave up. It’s been sitting in my room for almost a year and I got into trying to fix it all of a sudden. I can’t return it anymore.

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I contacted Sovol and they’re sending me a new hotend and build plate, but they told me to check the filament sensor, my dumbass took out two screws from the power supply and that’s how the fan ended up unaligned. I moved it with my screwdriver, so I gotta fix that. My screwdriver won’t take the other screws out and some of the screws are chipped and my screwdriver is chipped as well.

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So my electric screwdriver is coming tomorrow.

frigid patrol
sharp geyser
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Idk

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It comes with 52

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And my budget was $25

frigid patrol
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It'll prob work for it then

sharp geyser
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Ill send a link

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One of these heads should work?

frigid patrol
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Didnt the printer originally come with a bunch of l wrenches though?

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There should be one for each screw size i think

sharp geyser
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These don’t work

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For some reason

frigid patrol
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It comes with 5

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I think you're missing the smallest

sharp geyser
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I have another

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It’s just not in the photo

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And doesn’t work either

frigid patrol
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Oh in that case yeah the one you ordered prob has it instead

sharp geyser
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I’m assuming the first step is to fix the fan in power supply?

frigid patrol
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Did it function even with it misaligned?

sharp geyser
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Idk

frigid patrol
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Did you knock it loose after using it or while you were using it?

sharp geyser
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I moved it witch the screwdriver

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Which moved the fan

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And it’s not aligned

frigid patrol
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Is it resting against any other parts of the power supply?

sharp geyser
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Idk, that’s why I neeed to open the power supply completely

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But I can’t

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Until tomorrow

frigid patrol
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I see, probably safe to wait till you can then

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Compared to that, the other parts are stupidly easy

sharp geyser
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Also on this thing, there is a hole

frigid patrol
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(Other than filament runout sensor)

sharp geyser
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If you look very close

frigid patrol
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That's just the sock, you dont gotta worry about that

sharp geyser
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No

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It’s below the sock too

frigid patrol
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You should take the sock off for a better look

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You're gonna need it off when cleaning the filament off anyways

sharp geyser
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Alright, I’ll send a better pic tomorrow. Will you be available for guidance ?

frigid patrol
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Yeah, dw I'll be checking

sharp geyser
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Ok

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I don’t have to wait for the new hotend or build plate to start printing again?

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I think I’ll have to reset up my bed and z offset

frigid patrol
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Yeah, plate is just fine i have had worse, and the hotend i also had a worse looking filament clog

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Everyone has clogs at some point you just gotta clean it off and it works

sharp geyser
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Ok

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And I’ll have to check to see if I need to flash an update on my printer

frigid patrol
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You shouldnt need to

sharp geyser
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Are you using a slicer profile?

frigid patrol
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Never updated mine, honestly am worried i'd mess up my already good tuning doing it

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Yes, in prusaslicer

sharp geyser
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I want to use cura

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Preferably

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Or orca

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Will that work?

frigid patrol
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Yeah, any of the popular slicers should be just fine

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Its just a matter of preference

sharp geyser
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How do you know what profiles to use?

frigid patrol
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Usually there are presets for known printers

sharp geyser
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Do you use a profile if you are printing first prints?

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Like the cube, tower, benchy, or bed squares?

frigid patrol
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Yeah i used the sv06 preset on prusa and then tweaked from there as i kept doing more prints

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You use it as a base and then customize it accordingly

sharp geyser
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Ok

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How long does it take to do all of this?

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Tune the settings

frigid patrol
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i fortunately did it in my first like four or five prints

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my biggest issue was bed adhesion, so i failed and ended up clogging on a flexible dragon print

sharp geyser
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It doesn’t take months or years to get good or perfect settings does it?

frigid patrol
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not at all, no, i had that stuff printing fine in the next week after

sharp geyser
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What do you do after you tune your settings(

frigid patrol
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also, clean your plate with dish soap and water before you go to use it, it makes a huge difference in adhesion

sharp geyser
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Do you change settings on the actual printer?

frigid patrol
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well the one setting you mainly wanna change on your printer, after going through the bed leveling and homing steps in the manual, is z-offset

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which the best way to do is get a flat 1 layer template print, the one i used was circles on each corner and the center, and watch it print those

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as its printing, if you notice it's too far or too close when printing the circles, you can tune the z-offset

sharp geyser
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Do you have to level the bed everyday or change the z offset everyday?

frigid patrol
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no, i havent done mine in months

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you shouldn't need to unless you jostled your printer around a lot or something

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i did end up moving my printer and its offset did change slightly, but its still pretty much the same quality of print

sharp geyser
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I’d love to set up klipper and octoprint on a raspberry pi maybe after a couple of months to a year.

frigid patrol
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i set up octoprint in my first month or two i think

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i can help with that, and again as i recommended, more powerful than a pi zero 2w at least, like the pi 3b+

sharp geyser
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Yeah, that’s probably too quick for me

frigid patrol
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mine cant handle any long prints cause of it

sharp geyser
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There is so many slicer settings to learn

frigid patrol
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also you can actually use an old android to set up octoprint (probably klipper too but idk)

sharp geyser
frigid patrol
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i did print a helmet, but i had to use the printer's sd card and print manually and not through the pi

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the pi craps out if its too long printing cause its low power

sharp geyser
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Oh

frigid patrol
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not all pi's mind you, just the one i got, i got the cheapest, least powerful option

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its why im replacing it with a tablet i dont use, should be way more capable

sharp geyser
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First I gotta set up my printer properly and learn slicer stuff and basic knowledge before I get into that advanced stuff

frigid patrol
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honestly, you should be able to get most of it within a week of use, the hardest part is getting started, especially if you messed up anything initially

sharp geyser
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I really want to make a collapsible sword

frigid patrol
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you can definitely do that with your printer

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you might have to tune for tolerances, make sure it is fine enough to enable moving parts in a print, but for something as big as a sword it probably won't have to be too fine

sharp geyser
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Oh

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Is there third party heads and nozzles you can buy?

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Or filament sensors?

wanton copper
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?beginner

spiral fogBOT
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Calibration
Calibration and tuning can help with all aspects of print quality.
Extruder calibration should be done only once, and then again if you change any hardware on your extruder setup (new tube, gear drive, different motor, etc).
Flow calculation should be done for every filament, even different colours from the same brand.

A number of calibration and tuning guides exist online:

storm steppe
spiral fogBOT
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sharp geyser
queen mason
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PETG is a type of material

sharp geyser
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Oh

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So it’s another type of filament?

queen mason
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yes

sharp geyser
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What properties does it have?

storm steppe
sharp geyser
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Oh interesting

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Is there any filament that can print soft? Like could I print a ball?

storm steppe
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TPU is the soft one, though its more shock absorband than you would want

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?shore

storm steppe
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kinda thuds then doesnt move

sharp geyser
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Can tpu be printed on a sovol?

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What’s the limits for this printer?

storm steppe
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limits are pretty much 300C and enclosure, but i dont have too much experience with pushing other materials, just book knowledge

sharp geyser
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Gotcha. Btw I’m sure you modded your printer, can I see what it looks like?

storm steppe
sharp geyser
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Wow

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The twisty thing in the front looks different

storm steppe
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its a extruder indicator, the old one just pops off

sharp geyser
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Did you buy a new one?

storm steppe
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all printed

sharp geyser
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Oh, you made one

storm steppe
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for that color of blue

sharp geyser
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That’s sick

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How do you know which ones work with the sv06 plus)

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This one looks cool

storm steppe
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if your printer is tuned in most any NEMA motor one should work

sharp geyser
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Oh sick

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Hopefully I’ll be able to start printing once I get my electric screwdriver

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I just gotta do all of this

Issues:

  1. The fan in power supply is not aligned properly, so I can’t put screws in
  2. Filament sensor doesn’t work
  3. The nozzle seems to be clogged
  4. Lines on the build plate (can’t really fix that though)
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And on top of that, I need to level my bed, do the z offset thing

storm steppe
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1 power supply or control board? control board shouldnt really matter its position, power supply could kill you
2 whats the wiring? there is 2 positions for the sensor, and it needs the gcode to enable it
3 how sure are you its the nozzle? could be higher if you cant extrude
4 the white lines? they kinda fade over time

sharp geyser
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This

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Power supply

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Idk about the rest

storm steppe
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any sort of return window? truly unfortunate

spiral fogBOT
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PSU Modding: DO NOT ATTEMPT

Modifying the PSU is highly discouraged because there is an immense risk of lethal electrical shock.

The capacitors in there hold enough power to easily kill you if you touch the wrong part.

It is not worth opening a PSU. DO NOT ATTEMPT

sharp geyser
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I need to fix the fan tho

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So, what do I do?

storm steppe
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could leave it if its not too bad, I wouldnt mess with the insides, you touch a screwdriver to the wrong part and you get to sleep forever

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sovol isnt known for their QC

sharp geyser
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I’m not sure if the fan is leaning against anything important

storm steppe
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that side of the unit should be fairly empty, im not too worried abou that as long as some air is getting in there(possible fire hazzard, not too sure on that)

sharp geyser
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It should be fine if the printer is off tho?

storm steppe
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yeah, only problem area is it possible overheating something during active use

sharp geyser
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No I’m saying me accessing the power supply when the printer is turned off

storm steppe
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hard no, the capacitors in there will hold charge for weeks

sharp geyser
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What do they look like?

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So I know to avoid

storm steppe
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I would still not open it, and if so have someone nearby to help if needed, but big and round, between a AA and D battery

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like this has caused deaths before level

sharp geyser
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Is there risk with me moving my screwdriver to realign the fan?

storm steppe
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smaller chance, but still there IMO

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i dont think the PSU needs much cooling if you want to print the replacment

sharp geyser
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Well I’ll send an email to Sovol, they have to do something about that, no?

storm steppe
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yes, but no, could take a while for them to respond and then they are in china so takes 2 weeks to get anything from them if the do want to help

sharp geyser
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Can’t believe they didn’t warn me

storm steppe
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wait their support told you to open a PSU?

sharp geyser
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I guess?

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Should I do what they’re asking?

storm steppe
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asked in the main chat, 2 your fin bros, a 2 dont touch that with a 10 foot stick

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id replace the while thing myself

sharp geyser
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They should be able to send me a new printer under these circumstances ?

storm steppe
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prob new PSU if you push for it

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pointing out the danger of opening the PSU

sharp geyser
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Thank god you warned me

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I was going to use the Eletric screwdriver and open everything up

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Maybe, I should take it directly to Amazon?

storm steppe
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seedy china company goes brrr again

sharp geyser
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If they didn’t warn me about any danger, and they specifically told me to open it up, I should have a right to get a new printer?

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Even if it’s past Warranty?

storm steppe
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you can try for it, not sure the success rate on a whole new printer

sharp geyser
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Wow, you basically saved my life. Thank you again.

storm steppe
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they try to avoid sending out anything when they can since you are one of very many and one bad review is nothing in the scale of it

sharp geyser
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So what should I do in the mean time?

storm steppe
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should be usable for now, maby slight fire hazard when printing but should still print

sharp geyser
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The thing is I took out other screws as well.

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Should I put them back in?

storm steppe
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which ones? but probably

sharp geyser
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Uh some on the top

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Can I use my electric screwdriver for that?

storm steppe
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the fan ones?

sharp geyser
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The fan ones

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And

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These ones

storm steppe
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the side ones sure, not sure how you would line up the fan to get them in there

sharp geyser
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The side ones don’t need alignment

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I believe

sharp geyser
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@storm steppe

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I’m going to leave the power supply alone, is there any risks with the motherboard?

storm steppe
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not to my knowledge, but im not too much into the electronics

sharp geyser
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I need to find a switch for the filament sensor

storm steppe
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??

sharp geyser
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My filament sensor doesn’t work as you know

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And they told me to check motherboard

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But as you know, I opened the power supply

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They directed me on the power supply, but it ain’t safe.

storm steppe
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what all have you done for the sensor? should be sperate from the PSU

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wiring and slicer start gcode come to mind

sharp geyser
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I’ll send you what they sent me

storm steppe
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so what exactly is the problem?

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light on, not pausing print?

sharp geyser
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Both

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Well

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I get a message on the touch screeen

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And the light doesn’t turn on.

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Additionally, I used to hear a clicking sound when I put the filament through the sensor, now I don’t hear it

storm steppe
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you following the arrow for the direction to insert?

sharp geyser
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Yes

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And the green light doesn’t show at all when powered on

storm steppe
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THE CLICK IS IT TRIGGERING, THAT SOUNDS LIKE THE MAIN PROBLEM

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caps

sharp geyser
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I know someone who is an electrician, so he will take care of power supply when he comes back to Florida

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In the mean time, I should probably get everything else sorted

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Save up for enclosure, buy tools that I might need, read stuff

storm steppe
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so no click means switch is problematic, I wouldnt worry too much about the sensor in the first place myself, you get an idea of how far the spool will go, but annyoing that they sent a non functional switch

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you can always maky your own

sharp geyser
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Can I buy a different branded born?

storm steppe
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any should work as long as it has the 3 pin layout

sharp geyser
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Any tools you recommend I should save up for?

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I got an electric screwdriver on the way

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I’m sure that will be handy

storm steppe
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what the insides of the switch look like

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why its one way

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and for other things not much comes to mind other than 5015 fans

sharp geyser
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I’ll send a pic

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Man I’m so fucking tempted on that power supply

storm steppe
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the PSU fan is probably one of the "safer" things to mess with ,since its probably just the PSU shroud, but thats on you

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for the sensor folow the wire and make sure its pluged in at the board, cant remember if that was plugged in by default

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there is another option for wiring the sensor to the hotend

sharp geyser
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@storm steppe

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Moving the fan back to its original spot shouldn’t be a too big of a risk right?

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As long as I don’t use metal?

queen mason
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i really recomend you not opening up a PSU if you dont know what youre doing, ask support first if they can send in a replacement

storm steppe
sharp geyser
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Ask support for a new power supply?

queen mason
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yes, or if you know someone whos experienced with mains voltage, you can ask them for help

sharp geyser
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I know an electrician

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It’s just he won’t be in Florida for a long time

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It would be nice if Sovol sent me a new one free of no charge

queen mason
sharp geyser
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A couple of months maybe a year?

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My plan was to figure out 3d printing and eventually save up for a Bambu p1s or x1c

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But this is going to set me a bit off track

queen mason
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p1s is just a x1c but cheaper, the difference are a couple of things that you can buy while still cheaper than a x1c

sharp geyser
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X1c has multicolor

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I don’t have to swap mid print

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It’s enclosed

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Has an app

queen mason
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so does p1s

sharp geyser
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Can’t x1c print carbon fiber?

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Don’t know about Sovol

queen mason
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carbon fiber filled filaments? it can depending on the filament

queen mason
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lets get back on the main topic, the power supply should run fine, but from this image #1279228809714995250 message it looks like if you can find a non conductive stick or something, you can poke through the hole just enough to grab the fan and align it and screw it in if you still have the screws, i can't advise you to do this though

sharp geyser
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How about a plastic straw?

queen mason
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maybe, not sure if its strong enough though, but please wait for other peoples opinions before doing this, as im not a qualified electrician by any means

sharp geyser
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Oh wait

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Man

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I shoved a metal screwdriver into there

queen mason
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dont do that again

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check this ->#3d-printing message

spiral fogBOT
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sharp geyser
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Once I get my power supply, I should be good to go?

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Should I throw the old one out?

spiral fogBOT
#
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sharp geyser
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@queen mason

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Sorry to ping

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I did it

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I risked my life

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Can you check to see if it’s correct

frigid patrol
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Though try not to open psu again it is really dangerous, didnt recognize that till i read what the others had to say

sharp geyser
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We are on track to success?

frigid patrol
sharp geyser
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Alright.

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The fan seems to be working, I can feel the cooling

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I didn’t hear sparks

frigid patrol
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did you reassemble the printer entirely?

sharp geyser
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No

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I took the power supply off and the nozzle

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That’s it

frigid patrol
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the nozzle is off the extruder?

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can you send a pic?

sharp geyser
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No the big head

frigid patrol
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oh so like the entire extruder block is taken off?

sharp geyser
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Yes

frigid patrol
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ok just reassemble all the pieces as you would've initially setting it up

sharp geyser
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I took the sock off

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And I have a spare nozzle that came with the printer

frigid patrol
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connect everything, make sure its fully set up cause to clean it off you need it assembled

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yeah sock can be off, but you shouldn't need to take off the nozzle as it is now, at least not until you clean it off to see if there is any actual damage

sharp geyser
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Ok

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This is how it looks btw

frigid patrol
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that actually is much better than i expected

sharp geyser
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Btw I see some kind of padding

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Under the build plate

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Should it be on there

frigid patrol
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padding?

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send a pic

sharp geyser
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Alr

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I can’t

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But it’s under the bed

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Feel your printer

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Anyway

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The nozzle is back on

frigid patrol
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Everything plugged in?

sharp geyser
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I’m pressing the z - button on my printer to move the head down but it won’t

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Move

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Yes

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Everything is connected

frigid patrol
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ok dont tune the z-nozzle yet it wont move, might even damage it to try to force it through the plastic

sharp geyser
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Should I press home?

frigid patrol
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where is the print head right now?

sharp geyser
frigid patrol
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can you comfortably reach it there

sharp geyser
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Cleaning the nozzle?

frigid patrol
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cause you wanna just keep it still when you are cleaning it yeah

sharp geyser
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I can

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Also the needles have filament on it

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How can I remove it

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And what do I preheat the printer to

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For the nozzle?

frigid patrol
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preheat pla in the prepare option i think

sharp geyser
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Ok

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It says 195

frigid patrol
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you dont wanna touch any of what was under the sock with your bare hands while its heated

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yeah that's good

sharp geyser
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Also, is my filament sensor on right?

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The nozzle is 195

frigid patrol
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no idea i dont have one, but it does tell you how to in the manual right?

sharp geyser
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I believe so

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Will the pre existing filament on my needle melt from putting it inside?

frigid patrol
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putting what inside?

sharp geyser
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The needle?

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No?

frigid patrol
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why you putting a needle in? im a little confused

sharp geyser
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I see filament oozing out

frigid patrol
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ok dont use the needle at all just yet, i dont think its meant to be used when the extruder's heated

sharp geyser
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What do I do?

frigid patrol
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at this point, just focus on like getting a small pair of pliers to pull the bigger chunks of filament off the extruder

sharp geyser
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Ok

frigid patrol
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they should easily peel away with it being heated

sharp geyser
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Oh so the silver part?

frigid patrol
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pull the filament off the silver part yeah

sharp geyser
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Nothing is oozing out to my knowledge

frigid patrol
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i also used the tweezers that the printer came with to scrape off some of the smaller bits that were stuck

sharp geyser
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Nothing else is falling out

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What now?

frigid patrol
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send me a pic of how it looks

sharp geyser
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Put my phone under nozzle?

frigid patrol
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sure if you're certain you wont get hot filament on it

sharp geyser
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You see that?

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There appears to be white filament melted around the nozzle

frigid patrol
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I see it, just try pulling that off with small pliers or even the tweezers

sharp geyser
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Can I use a paper towel?

frigid patrol
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no, its hot

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you'll risk burning yourself

sharp geyser
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Idk if I’ll be able to get it all of by doing that

frigid patrol
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if it's like too liquidy and hard to get off in one piece, it may help to preheat to a custom temp that is lower, like 150 or 140 to where it won't liquify as much

sharp geyser
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Are you sure I’m doing this the correct way?

frigid patrol
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i pretty much did it like that, all you do is just pull/scrape anything off on the outside

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looking up a guide its the same words with lowering the temp a bit to peel off bits that are too liquid and using pliers to get the big chunks, but they also recommended a brass brush to get the tiny bits of molten plastic

sharp geyser
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I dont think I can get anymore

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What should I do?

frigid patrol
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i think turn off the preheat

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and then do it again at a lower temp like 110-150 C to try to peel whatever is left more easily

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unless you're saying like there's almost nothing to get anymore

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i had little traces left on mine and i just ended up putting the sock on and leaving it, as long as it doesn't look like it'll be enough to clog or anything

sharp geyser
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Do you think I’ll be able to print a benchy today?

frigid patrol
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yeah, probably

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i was printing in the same day and look at how bad it was, just found a pic

sharp geyser
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I’m scared about those lines on the build plate

frigid patrol
sharp geyser
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But Sovol is sending me a new build plate

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Yikes

frigid patrol
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im still using the same nozzle and everything after like half a year of consistent printing

sharp geyser
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The temp is at 109

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Am I safe with a paper towel

frigid patrol
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and the build plate scratches you have wont affect much

frigid patrol
sharp geyser
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Yeah I’ll use that

frigid patrol
#

slightly damp it and wipe while its still hot

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just mainly the bottom nozzle area, i dont think you should bring that near any of the wires

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try to fold it over a couple times or make sure its thick enough so you dont burn your hand in the process

sharp geyser
#

I got most of it off

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Now what?

frigid patrol
#

at this point it should be okay

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see if you can move the nozzle using z-offset, try to move it up a little cause it scratched last time

sharp geyser
#

@frigid patrol

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What now?

frigid patrol
#

ok so if you moved it up high enough to where you think it won't scratch, i'd just redo the homing and leveling process you're given on the instructions, considering you disassembled and reassembled there might be a bit of an offset compared to how you had it last

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and then you finish it out by just tuning the z-offset during a level test print

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before you get to all that though, might wanna double check if it actually extrudes properly first, you can test it with a filament change

sharp geyser
#

@frigid patrol

frigid patrol
#

Gotta further tune it, give me a sec ill send you the print

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you'll want to scale it out for x and y directions to cover the same relative space with the increased bed size

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here, one of the people from the comments used it for their plus they scaled it like so:

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and then while you print this, just adjust z-offset if it looks like it's too close and squishing the filament down or too far and not laying it down precise enough

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be sure to save whatever adjustments you make to the z-offset while its printing

sharp geyser
#

I’m currently doing a benchy

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It came out like this

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I don’t think those weird patterns are supposed to be there

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Here is the link to the stl

sharp geyser
#

It’s horrible

frigid patrol
#

wait

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how old is the filament you used?

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if it's been left a couple months and it's the one they sent in with the printer, could just be bad filament

sharp geyser
#

A couple of months

frigid patrol
#

was it in a sealed bag or anything

sharp geyser
#

Do I use my bed as a heater?

frigid patrol
#

or just in the open

sharp geyser
#

Not sealed

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Opened

frigid patrol
#

oh, yeah definitely can blame the filament for most of that

sharp geyser
#

Put filament on the bed?

frigid patrol
#

i dont think directly

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im pretty sure you're supposed to use a cardboard box (like the filament box) poke holes in it and heat it from there

sharp geyser
#

Oh

frigid patrol
#

and is it the filament that came with the printer?

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or your own spool you bought?

sharp geyser
#

No

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It’s esun filament

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Got on Amazon

queen mason
#

?beddrying

spiral fogBOT
sharp geyser
#

Is that the issue?

frigid patrol
#

no esun should work ive heard its decent

queen mason
#

just dry the filament

sharp geyser
#

The filament temp range is 205-225 and I changed the slicer temp to 205

frigid patrol
#

yeah you should dry it before trying it again

sharp geyser
#

Could be that too?

frigid patrol
#

what temp did it print at before?

sharp geyser
#

205

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Same thing with the bed squares

frigid patrol
#

if its within the range on the spool it shouldnt be causing issues like you saw on the benchy, its cause you need to dry it

sharp geyser
#

Easy to peel off

sharp geyser
#

How long do you dry it for,

spiral fogBOT
#

Filament Drying Temps
3dxtech recommends the following maximum temps for drying and recomended durations. When getting information about what temperature to dry filament keep in mind where that information is coming from. For instance print dry's units max out at 70C which may not be sufficient for some materials.

frigid patrol
#

if you still have the one it came in just use that

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gotta trap the heat in with it

sharp geyser
#

I got to cut the bottom of the box it came in?

frigid patrol
#

i dont think you have to, i think just using the box as is will work

sharp geyser
#

Alr

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Do I have to flip it every 2 hours?

frigid patrol
#

poke holes in the top though im reading up now, gotta do that to let moisture escape

sharp geyser
#

Using a pencil?

queen mason
#

anything

sharp geyser
#

Ok

frigid patrol
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2-3 small holes, dont need too much

sharp geyser
frigid patrol
#

to use for drying??

sharp geyser
#

No like is the nozzle fine?

frigid patrol
#

probably, cant tell for sure if that's causing print issues until you dry that filament

sharp geyser
#

Can the sv06 plus bed go past 60 degrees?

queen mason
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yes

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it can go up to 100 iirc, but i wouldnt do that to dry filament as the spool will likely melt

sharp geyser
#

Ok

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4 hours? Alright

queen mason
#

yea, flip halfway through

sharp geyser
#

2 hours on each side, gotcha

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Do u have to do this everyday?

queen mason
#

no, just when the filament gets wet

spiral fogBOT
#
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