All prints are destroyed sooner or later.

[turbid knoll]

I have an Ender 3 Max Neo from Creality, Im also using SonicPad for klipper settings/WebGUI. I have also a Creality DryBox 2.0.

I would like to print PETG as always but since 2 month all my prints are destroyed by the hotend.
A big pieces of filament somehow goes to a ball or deformed big piece and this goes to the print and the nozzle hits it many times and totally destroys my prints.

I tried everything what is possible, changed filament brand and type, dryed the filament, clear/replace nozzle and tube and hotend. all totally clear or new now.
I set the temperature and bed temp based on temp tower tests. I also set bed leveling into nearly perfection, only 0.03 difference between corners.
The Z-offset set perfectly after printing many Z-offset setup test one layer files, that is also perfect now.

Even if I still start to print that happens what you see on the picture. Doesnt matter what I try to print. Today was about the 40th destroyed stuff and 0 successfully printed.

Please help me because Im really depressed and im thinking burn it and put it under the ground and leave this hobby even if I really like it.
Thank you very much.
Best regards,

[finite junco]

AI Help

I'm sorry to hear about the troubles you're facing with your prints. It sounds like you've already taken several steps to troubleshoot the issue. One thing you may want to try is double-checking the tension on your extruder and ensuring that the filament is being fed smoothly without any obstructions. It's also worth checking if the extruder gear is gripping the filament properly.

Additionally, make sure that your filament is entering the hotend smoothly and isn't getting caught or pinched anywhere along the path. If the filament is deforming into a ball, it could suggest that there is some resistance or issue with the filament path.

If the issue persists, you may want to consider reaching out to the manufacturer for further assistance, as it could potentially be a hardware-related problem specific to your printer model. Best of luck with resolving the issue, and I hope you're able to get back to successful printing soon.

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.

[unborn heron]

The pictures are PETG? What temperature do you print at? With a ptfe lined hotend you should not exceed 220ºC for long periods of time.

[finite junco]

PTFE Temperatures
TL;DR: Do not heat PTFE above 230C for long periods of time, and never above 260C.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, a.k.a. PTFE, a.k.a. Teflon, is a polymer renowned for its extremely low coefficient of friction. It is used in many industrial and domestic applications, most famously in non-stick pans. Relevant to us, PTFE is used as Bowden tubing and heatbreak liners in 3D printers for ease of filament transport. This places the polymer in close contact with areas where high temperatures are routinely encountered.

PTFE will begin to pyrolyze at 220 degrees centigrade. It will begin off-gassing at significant amounts at 240. At 260, this process will have accelerated to the point where the structural integrity of your tubing will have been compromised. Most contemporary citations focus not on the physical decomposition of PTFE but on the health effects of byproducts used in its manufacture. However one major health risk is directly attributable to PTFE pyrolysis: Polymer fume fever.

Polymer fume fever, or colloquially "Teflon flu", is a condition caused by overexposure to fumes (over the course of 4-8 hours) caused by the decomposition of PTFE. The advanced respiratory metabolism of birds make them particularly sensitive to polymer fumes, which leaves them at high risk of death in environments where such fumes are prevalent. Further reading is linked below.

Further reading

• https://www.ewg.org/research/canaries-kitchen/teflon-offgas-studies
• https://www.petinsurance.com/healthzone/pet-health/pet-toxins/teflon
• https://www.leafscore.com/eco-friendly-kitchen-products/the-problem-with-teflon-and-other-non-stick-pots-and-pans/

?ptfetemps requested by: m.von.d#0

[unborn heron]

Check if your z axis lead screw is still securely attached to the motor

The second picture is the first layer finished and the line where it gouged into the layer was the start of the second layer? I guess you are overextruding a lot, did you change your extruder? In any case, redo your esteps calibration.

[turbid knoll]

I will try 210. Im using 220 right now. I check today the screws, the pictute is a finished print overnight.

How should I do settings of extruder? Thank you mate

[unborn heron]

Petg doesn't really work well at those temperatures

?esteps

[finite junco]

https://mattshub.com/blog/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration

[unborn heron]

"finished" I assume

[turbid knoll]

What temperature do you suggest? Anyhow before this issue I printed about 30 perfect model with those settings.

[unborn heron]

I mean petg "works" at 220ºC but it won't have ideal properties compared to 240ºC or 260ºC (depends on the individual material)

[turbid knoll]

Thanks. I finally solved eStep calibration. It was really far off. 60% was difference compared to perfect

I changed also to 240c 80c bed

Lets test like this. Thanks for your time

[unborn heron]

I would not increase temperature as stated above

#1277554910036099156 message

[turbid knoll]

Understood

Looks better. I test it for a whole but maybe you solved a few month old headache my friend…

[unborn heron]

This looks miles better. Did you upgrade the extruder?

[turbid knoll]

No.

There is anything else you would do? Or this just looks perfect?