#Heat Block leak filament from above
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
It sounds like you may need to replace the heat break on your Ender 3 and properly assemble it to prevent filament leaks. Here are the general steps to follow:
- Fully disassemble the hotend, including removing the heat break and nozzle.
- Clean any existing filament residue from all components.
- Install a new heat break and reassemble the hotend, ensuring all components are tightened properly.
- Perform a test print to check for any further leaks.
If you need more specific guidance or step-by-step instructions, please refer to the Ender 3 S1 Pro user manual or contact the manufacturer for assistance.
by "top", do you mean on the top of the heater block closest to the heat break?
ah, ok
so
disassemble it and clean off the plastic
when you go to reassemble it, thread the nozzle all the way till you cant turn it anymore WITH YOUR FINGERS
actually, before that, do you know how to disassemble it and clean it?
no..
I found one
Ender 3 v2 Hotend Cleaning - Eliminate Stringing & Clogs
In this video i'm going to show you how to clean out the hotend on your Ender 3 v2 or any other 3d printer that doesn't have an all metal hotend.
If you're having problems with stringing, clogs, or just keep seeing a previous colour coming through when you change filament, it's time to c...
i actually am watching a video from him right now to see if its good, a different video though
okk
In this video i'm going to show you how to safely remove a hotend blob from your 3d printer without causing any damage.
Firstly, don't panic.
It can be quite easy when you see something go so obviously wrong with a print to immediately start pulling on the melted mess or cutting away parts.
This is nowhere near as bad a problem as it looks and,...
eh
i like your video better, it tells you how to disassemble it
no, you didnt tighten the nozzle properly which left gaps in the thread where the plastic could escape
it was working well
but then
I got to change the nozzle
and when I changed it that what happened
when changing a nozzle, you first finger tighten it all the way and then untighten it a half to full turn
you then thread the heat break / throat in all the way until it stops
wait what
well
I dont have tools
I bought the printer used
and the seller did not give me the tools so that what I got
by drill, do you mean like a power drill or the drill bits that create holes in things
it look like drill it tight things
ok, do you have any hand tools? like a socket wrench, pliers, channel locks, etc.
socket wrench no I use the drill instead
wait
I will look for tools at home
my father have alot
but its not organized
they are all over the home
so I gotta search for em
you really only need something to firmly hold the heater block while you tighten the nozzle for the finaly time
i wouldn't recommend using power tools as you could strip the threads
I used my scissor
will try to find one tho
and you kept your fingers?
eh, flesh isnt ideal for this
when you tighen it for the final time, you need to actually preheat the nozzle and heater block
so it will get hot
i recommend looking for these to hold onto the heater block while you do this
aside from that, a normal crescent or socket wrench that fits onto the nozzle should be fine
id say those are optional, just be careful not to touch the hot metal
and really, you should be able to get away heating it up briefly to peel away the plastic and take it apart, let it cools to do some more cleaning, and then only heat it back up for the final tighten
I will look again for gloves
they was one that huge but did not find it yet
while you go for the gloves, make sure to also leave with the tools necessary for this repair if you dont have them already
if they sell any
is there something messing?
this one works with the heatblock
I think thats all from my experience till now
Aside from that allen key, i would make sure to have a set of tools to disassemble the hotend. So something like those channellocks I mentioned before, that adjustable wrench will work, but also something to turn the nozzle itself (so like a socket or other type of wrench that will fit it)
personally, if you dont have any full set of tools, i recommend keeping an eye out for some sale on a cheapish multi-piece set
my dad too has a bunch of tools, but it's so disorganized and missing too many tools that I got sick of it and bought a Husky tool set since it was on sale
back
woah, that was indeed near
sort of, those are good for a power drill, i was more thinking of regular hand tools
but this is what you used before to tighten the nozzle, right?
yes
ok, now to actually disassemble the hotend
it should be hot right
yes, though you dont need to make it too hot
just enough to soften the plastic as it'll make things harder when it's cold
so what degree
probably 110 to 150c i think should be good
with the adjustable wrench you had pictured before (with the weird spiral thing), grip the heater block
if you cant grab it easily because the shroud is in the way, remove that
okk
make sure the socket is set properly to loosen things, then once the hotend is warm and you have a firm grip with the adjustable wrench, slip that socket wrench on the nozzle and turn
what socket
is it coming off?
ok, you can turn off the heater block now
so I just take off the nozzle for now ?
yes
while it's cooling you can clean off any filament that may have oozed out on to the threads
it becomes easier to grab with tweezers when it's cooler than printing temp because it's still somewhat solid and will simply peel off
I threw it
it have stuff filament
luckilly my nozzle order arrived yesterday
I got alot now
like 30
oh, ok
honestly, with that much you probably didn't pay a whole lot of money, so you may be changing these frequently then
cheap nozzles and all
clean the heater block then of filament
I paid 3 dollars
is cheap nozzle bad?
it says creality on them dk if they are original xD
$0.10 a nozzle at $3 for 30
should I take off this when its hot or when its cool
is that cheap or good price idk
touch it when it's cool, but while it's cooling try to clean the filament you can
because
I got annoyed days ago
I went for 100km away store
and he sold me a single piece of nozzle
for 3 dollar or 2.6
thats pretty high Ig for a nozzle
so I ordered those
cheaper nozzles probably dont have very good quality control on them
so the actual 0.4mm hole may not be exactly 0.4, it may be more of an oval, and or it may not be perfectly concentric
lol
from the printer gantry? i would
it can be done with it still on, but it becomes a bit more fiddly
can you take a picture of what it looks like right now?
am confused now I just took off the nozzle
is there any step I should do?
like how to clean it or take it off or something
aaa
I was gonna say to get at section there, but that may or may not be actually needed
what ultimately needs to be done is to butt the nozzle up against the head break pictured here
try and clean it if you can, but to fully clean it you may need to take the heater block off
what you could do is preheat the block to about 100c and then turn the printer fully off and try to peel the plastic away while it cools naturally
that way you wont have to worry about bridging the wires from the heater itself
if the heater block stays on the gantry as it is in the pictures, then you shouldn't have to worry too much about ripping them
still worry, but it's not gonna magically break on you
i recently clean my own nozzle because it was clogged, i had the damn thing hanging by heater and thermistor wires because i just didnt want to hold it while it cooled in between cold-pull attempts
that holds the heater cartridge itself in place
its fine to no fully remove it, but it becomes a pain when you cant take the heater out because of it (if you ever need to)
you said it came from the top, right?
yes
is that top clean
anywhere you see melted purple filament
the more you can remove from the threads the better, but it's fine if there is some left over
but it's also why I was wondering if it was possible to remove the heater block from the gantry itself, so that you may better get to the parts you need to
ye
whats after that
while it is cold, finger tighten the nozzle back on
ideally, you would then finger tighten the heat break / heat throat untill it is stopped by the nozzle
well, finger tighten until its up against the nozzle
the heat break and nozzle are threaded into the same hole, the leaks are caused by the gaps between the two parts
its in the middle of the block
how my finger should fit there
thats why i was asking about removing it from the gantry
are you able to get a more close up image of that section?
ah, I was hoping more from the front
what exact printer model is this?
ill see if i can find an image
ender 3 s1 pro
I did it
I unscrew the lose one
some how it worked
I guess it was some filament there and I thought its lose
so now I can take off the heat block
does it look like this?
oh shit
Accessories purchase, Please contact our official email or website, remember to attach your machine type and accessories pictures
Official email:[email protected]
Official website: https://www.creality.com
Any technical support in need, Please contact our official service email,remember to attach your printer model、complete orderscreenshot、purch...
mine is pro
S1 pro
might be diffrent or same idk
the differences usually end up being like a size thing or something to do with controls
as far as i know, the hotends tend to be the same
with printers there are two types of hotends, either it is PTFE (that white tube) lined or "All-metal"
with the ptfe lined hotends, that plastic tube goes all the way into the heater block and makes contact with the nozzle
from where I get that?
it really depends if yours needs replacing, but amazon is a good option, though there are better options than the basic white tube
oh so I dont really need to replace it
probably not
did you take the hotend off?
no
did you do anything else the last photo you sent?
no
ok, like in the video there should be 3 screws to undo that will remove the heater block from the gantry
seems like it, unless you find your whole assembly is different
yes
ill brb while you do that, food
and back
oh, 7 screws actually
that tiny grub screw is hidden behind everything where you need to dismount the whole assembly first like at the start of that video
it's called a "grub screw" or "set screw"
does your allen key just spin inside it?
yes
do you have another allen key about the same size?
is it entirely circular inside that thing or does it look like a hexagon?
circle
best image i could find, but thats what it should looks like
all printers are gonna have some headache or another at some point
ah
but out of the box, i believe so
well less headache
i dont own a bambu printer so i cant tell you for sure, but considering the money and what ive heard
I have seen alot of videos
they all saying its less headache like everything is auto ig
could not afford it here its so pricy in my region due the shipping fees
do you have a hardware store in the area?
nah
there is in the closet country
dubai is near
like 4 hours
I believe they have one
so this is 489
734.82
idk whats the diffrence between this 2 combos
cn version and intl version
i couldnt tell you
i think the cheapest option would be to find another allen key to try
I found one with the drill
if the drill did not do it I dont think allen will do
its illiterly a circle
go for it then
800 dollar
almost double the price
idk what difrence with this version but this one is 979 dollar
or maybe attaching the nozzle probably will fix it
so as u said
I should finger tight it now
then?
i mean, hopefully it will work, but the reason why i was going down the rabbit hole of taking out the heater block was so that you could thread that heat break further into the heater block
to see where it comes into contact with the nozzle
omg
otherwise there will be a gap between the heat break and nozzle which will lead to the filament leaking again
while this isnt exactly your hotend, it should give you an idea of what im talking about
this section here
the blue is the heat break and the gold is the nozzle
any gaps will allow filament to ooze out like it did for you originally
if you were to thread more of the heat break into the heater block until it comes into contact with the nozzle, you can then see if there was any space between them. if not, then this whole thing could have been fixed with tightening the nozzle further while it is preheated
I did fully tight it before
while the nozzle was hot?
ye
then the nozzle did not reach the heat break, which is all the more reason to remove that grub screw
once the grub screw is out the heat break can be unthreaded from the heater block or thread further into it, you could attempt now but there are wires in the way
did you try that drill bit you mentioned before? with that allen key shape?
yes
no good?
no
so i can think of two options: 1) destructive method of removing it with a actual drill bit, the sharp spirally thing, in which you will destroy the drub screw and hopefully not the heatsink / thread it is in. 2) isolate as much of that heat sink as you can (remove screws until its the only part in your hand) and buy a replacement with as few parts as you can get away with
or 2.5) just buy a whole new assembly and not bother with dismantling it further
there could be some other methods of removing the stripped grub screw, but i dont know of any
what does assembly mean
an "assembly" refers to a bunch of smaller parts being put together, it has to be "assembled". In this context I am referring to that big thing with that fans, heater block, nozzle, leveling probe, extruder, and extruder stepper motor.
oh
I dont think that available
where I can find this ?
i feel like they should be able to, but my browser set it to the US
look in the top right of the page?
where it says "English" right next to the US flag icon
this ?
180 dollar to ship
ama buy new printer with this
yeah, looks like it, but fuck that shipping price
do you know anyone that is more comfortable with handling drills? could they help you remove the grub screw? (though, once removed you will need to replace it somehow)
bring it with you if you are able
you shouldnt need to power it while the grub screw is being removed
ye I will
I will still buy new printer I hate this one
bambu lab is so fast they say I want that so bad
I will try to sell this one after fixing that
also idk if this screw common so I can replace it or something
idk if its common in your area, but it's common enough here in the US
if its only designed for this I won't find it
if the screw common like used for other things I might find it
its common in that other machines can use it if yours wasnt stripped to hell
but they would probably all be for a similar purpose between different machines
like if you were to look on your lead screw coupler, you will see more grub screws
okk
I will go after 4 to 7 hours and see if someone could do it
then I got to clean the plastic thing inside right?
oh no
tight the thing
I will just screw it off and when u be here will do it
thank you u are so patient
aaa
this chat will time out after a while, but i think you should be able to message in it again and probably @ me any time
and i think your have the all metal version of the heat break, which is better than PTFE lined
the Ender 3 S1 Pro, right?
idk
ye its s1 pro
you should have the "all-metal" hotend variant then, from what I gather
"All-Metal" hotends, unlike their lined counterparts, do NOT have that white tube going all the way into the heater block
This allows for printing at hotter temperatures and less maintenance as there is no white tube degrading and eventually clogging the nozzle. As you print around 240c+, the white tube starts to burn and eventually constrict. The burning tube is actually the teflon plastic breaking down, during this process the teflon releases some pretty toxic gases that you really don't want to breath in (it's actually lethal for birds).
no, im sure you do after looking at creality's site
usually 300c is the max anyway for printers like these, as anything hotter is getting into the territory of engineering grade plastics, but those need an heated enclosure
from their site
ye I meant I dont have the plastic things since it goes to 300