#Under Extrusion Problems

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lavish blaze
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I've just been printing quite a few models and all of a sudden, my Ender 3 V1 keeps not depositing filament and ruining my prints partway through. I literally just pulled the bowden tube entirely out of the hotend, took off the nozzle and pulled out all the filament that was stuck inside and ran the needle through to make sure it was relatively clean, and when I put everything back together the filament was finally coming out straight when I pushed it through which it never did before, so I thought I fixed the issue. I start another print, it prints fine until suddenly halfway through the raft it just stops extruding. I don't know what would be causing this because I JUST unclogged it entirely. Other facts to note: I cut off a small piece from the end of the bowden tube before re-inserting it cause it was completely caked in filament, and I also recently replaced my empty spool with a fresh one (PLA, 1 kg and 1.75 mm, same as I was using before). Any suggestions would be appreciated cause I am really getting frustrated with this and I don't know what else I'm supposed to do to try and fix it.

proud jewelBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you have already taken some good troubleshooting steps to address the issue of filament not extruding properly. Here are a few additional suggestions you can try:

  1. Check for any kinks or obstructions in the bowden tube. Sometimes even small bends can impede filament flow.
  2. Make sure the hotend is heating up to the correct temperature for your PLA filament. Improper temperature can lead to extrusion issues.
  3. Check the tension of the extruder arm. It may need to be adjusted to ensure proper grip on the filament.
  4. Verify that the filament is feeding smoothly and not catching on anything along the path from the spool to the extruder.

If you continue to experience issues, it may be helpful to reach out to the manufacturer or a community forum for further assistance. Good luck with your troubleshooting!

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
proud jewelBOT
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shy light
proud jewelBOT
shy light
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?hottighten

proud jewelBOT
shy light
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You made sure you hottighten the nozzle to fully seal it against the tube?

lavish blaze
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I've ordered an upgrade kit with a bunch of replacement nozzles and connectors and a better tube so I'm hoping if I just replace everything it should fix the issue, fingers crossed

shy light
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Can work

lavish blaze
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apparently this tubing is more durable and heat resistant and also a lot smoother, people in the reviews are saying it actually improved their print quality by some amount

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so I'm hoping this works

proud jewelBOT
# lavish blaze

Capricorn
Capricorn lists melting temps, not degradation temps when advertising their PTFE tubing.

Capricorn tubes have a unique selling point in that their quality control ensures accurate inner and outer diameters of extrusion. This is in contrast to generic manufacturers who may not have as stringent a requirement for manufacturing.

A 1.9mm ID (inner diameter) has been shown to help in reducing hysteresis when extruding flexible filaments in a Bowden setup but in other setups, i.e. filament with a higher variance in diameter, this can actually become detrimental. Use best judgement when deciding what form or brand of PTFE to use in your printer.

Capricorn tubing is relatively high quality for its price point, but there is insufficient independent evidence to show that it has more thermal resistance to pyrolysis than "generic" PTFE tubing. One difficulty in testing is that due to the colorants in the PTFE resin, the distinctive "browning" of degradation or pyrolysis is much harder to detect. Another point of concern is to do with Capricorn's line of translucent "TL" PTFE. Though the exact composition of their resin remains proprietary, the nature of PTFE and related fluoropolymers speculatively suggests the addition of PFA or FEP (which are optically transparent) into the mix. The issue with this is that both PFA and FEP have lower working temperatures than PTFE. PFA is rated to a similar ceiling of 260 C but has a higher thermal conductivity whereas FEP undergoes degradation at temperatures as low as 200 C. Unfortunately without further evidence, this must remain speculative.

?capricorn requested by: m.von.d#0