#EnDEX
1 messages · Page 5 of 1
idk. I dont think there is any verification
I think you can just press submit and it's on there
How interesting
oops I fucked up
I did 00:1:50
instead of 00:01:50
guess I gotta do an even faster one and resubmit now
damn😂
Do 1.5mil
10 gazillion
Lmfao.
00:01:49.99
That might save 1 second
1 second
this is the theoretical fastest time for my machine rn
How do you even get faster at this point
Assumin 800 mm/s?
different motors
ja
More torque
bigger pulleys could do it ngl
im not in need of torque, just want a better speed-torque curve
I get like 850 mm/s max
but you enter vfa hell
48v easy
no thanks
It’s worth it for the sub 1:30
this is already getting out of hand
48v 5160s could push u over the edge.. just sayin
Very lol
i even offered to pay for the 5160s 
My ass IS tryna go for 1
the bootycall jones discord doesn’t believe my settings 
what the fuck is that
k1 modding guy
he made the linear rail mod and stuff
i sent ur video as an example 
Like 3 people are
I posted it to reddit and got 2 comments and 0 upvotes 😭
ouch
Chat
send the post i gotchu
This does NOT work
i’m going to soon™️
Good luck
sadge
Genuinely I feel like kevins printer is a fluke
Do I count
Kinda
Like
bro we keep saying u need to cut it off
Listen
Youre like .6 of a endex
The hole pattern dosent match
Drill
from tushonk
I get that part
keep this in ur own thread tho ‼️
Okay
Yea sorry kevin, we kinda made this thread just #speed-printers
True, I think Kevin said mine could be faster cuz cpap
Atp just make that on a new ender
servos
the torque curve is really nice on them
a really nice straight line
breaking the rules, making the run pointless
speed benchy runs are overrated anyway
having a fast printer is overrated anyways
it 100% is
why is my printer so fast when I print so slow 
1mm nozzle 25mm/s is the way
You gotta test quality prints speeds
Yeah I was wondering abt that
I regret trying to post on Reddit
I do need to do that
Ppl on Reddit are js haters
They problably assume that your settings aren't following the rules just based off of appearances when in reality it's just underextruded af
is being underextruded allowed?
it's not against the rules
considering the fact that it's still on the leaderboard, probably all good
I will still maintain that the KevEnder isnt really built for speed tho
you can probably do better if you deviate from it and use a lighter bed, long shaft motors, 9mm belts, etc
its funny to me that WR was just a sidequest to you 
It feels undeserved
why?
I think people just havnt seriously tried
Tbf "trying" involves doing minutman type shit
The minutman was dissapointing ngl
did he really try tho
I wanted him to push it more
he couldve pushed it more, yeah
im sure it can crush mine
he just wanted to milk it more
yeah, too bad his can't print anything other than a benchy 🗿
lmao so true
get rkt
pointless ass
imagine cnc custom meltzone
take away the benchy, what do you have
The video themselves are fantastic
Very cool, very entertaining
Why did he feel the need to make it click bait
Fr, that's why I'm ok even if mine doesn't beat yours, bc like, mine is stiff af, and ht
Definetly could have spent less money tho
so for speed, what are your next upgrades? what i plan is cf bed, awd x and 4 motor y and more flow, should be like 1:30
classic reddit
That's fast as fk
Afaik he isn't going to try for faster, but mine has that and it didn't really help lol
what would help?
how smooth is the motion on the Y axis?
Soso
Not as smooth as just lin rails
The issue is alignment
Eh maybe
ideally a combination of washers and spring washers
then you can just line em up and screw it in
that's the thing that pushed my printer from 700/1M to 800/1M
Dang... that's means I could get to 950 by that logic
I just made the holes in my Y carriage larger
Hmmmm, maybe
and I also realized that my Y carriage was hella warped
My issue is i have so many bits on my y carriage
so I fixed it
wait HT?
what temp
what kind of rail did you get
80
I want it just for stiffness
I'm fine with losing some speed if it means that
I made sure all of my parts are good
I've got watercooling
Wait where did that ping go
Am I crazy
i can cad but idk whats good for speed
I just did what seems logical
and when I do something wrong, people here yell at me ❤️
yea you suck
fix Klipper 
my klipper is gonna be a nightmare to setup
why are there so many goddamn kevins in 3d printing
sometimes people think im kevinakasam
kevin how do you sync the y steppers
Me with my x linear rail, bro, fry hates the way it's mounted
don t you just t nut it
Na, it came as a kit and now i have a legit reason behind it
My belt runs through the extrusion
oh
should be fine
Wait what
How
It's like, half in there
I'm moving the probe 3mm back
But I won't if I don't need to
if you can do that that's better but non moving should be fine ish there
looks pretty high up
cables and other moving metal is the bigger issue for keepout, people run it with metal carriages and there's even a waterblock for it now
are you going to replace the x extrusions to make space for idex?
alrighty then 
Gimme ur benchy, I can optimize the fuck out of it.
ooo
Speedy Jeepy when?
C&D from Jeep incoming
lmaaaao
In the square hole
It’s not even close to going in
then your flow and shrinkage isnt even close to correct 🤷
looks more like shrinkage tho
I forgot abt shrinkage
Does that mean I gotta reprint everything
idk. I didnt give a lot of tolerance to everything in an effort to make it rigid
just reprint things that dont go together?
My ass didn’t tune shrinkage at all lol
it just worked?
I winged everything in PC-ABS and got lucky
or did you add tolerance
lol nice
I usually yolo 99.5 when im too lazy to do shrinkage
I did basically a copy paste of my ASA profile with higher temps
If you are brave you can sand it to tolerance (if you have enough walls)🤷
Booo
optimize the fuck out of mine too
Post the optimized settings 🥺
oh fuck did I say f625
yeah
ur good
$8 bearings might be the cheapest thing i "wasted"
cuz im sure stuff is gonna happen
Plus you can use it later for sure
Yeah

So what you’re saying is your thumbnail is a lie. For shame, Kevin. For shame
for shame kevin
i want a refund

reporting kevin on facebook
got a link?
oh fuck
I didnt even include that in the price
350 💀
hell yeah bro
for shame kevin
Everywhere in the states
Tbh I far more often see “I know what I have” for $110
With Capricorn tubing and metal extruder
Just found one for 60, can probably get them to drop it to 50 if I asked
except new york i guess
nothing below $80 on a good day
and far more often "modded" ones for $175
there are some decent ones in nj if ur willing to come over here
not that i'm very interested in buying another ender either way lol
I have an actual source for these
Comgrow sells them for 50 bucks
Oh dang
KevEnder forum when?
Yay!
so just hear me out
Ooo, found a 60 dollar one with pickup in NJ on ebay
the slot also allows doe the belts to run inside of it
so take 20mm for one belt and 20mm for the 2nd one and they are much easier to hook on
change the first message
C beam extrusions
mmmm yeah that makes it a lot easier
rn I can't run 9mm belts
well, I dont think I need 9mm either
but still
do it
those are 20 series 4040
I didnt use misumi
I used shopee
I paid like 5 bucks for a 350mm one
when you click on the link in my profile
it takes you to the IDEX one
What’s the use of the blue thing on the front
alignment
For what
the Y axis
Oh
for the endex you'll also either want a way to match the height of the toolheads or a way to probe them so something like sexbolt Z
gocha
Probe alone is useless, because you can't do mirror or copy modes
depends on what you are intending to do
if you only want support it is not useless
I'll just match mine with shims/filing
got the assemblies down to less than 1 tenth of eachother already
Idk, it definetly depends, Facebook marketplace average is probably 75, you can get lucky and find 50 dollar ones but likely doesn't work or has a big issue
Bent frame, z leadscrew(which is fine for this), blown psu etc
I've seen a couple of 60s in fairly good condition, bet people would fold if you lowball them a bit. But there's definitely people trying to get 100+ for theirs
Ur right, i found 2 for 50 dollars in the Midwest
One of the toolheads are adjustable
Up and down
add a 2nd Z axis to each toolhead to make them auto adjust
I think I saw a prusa mod that did that
Added a second toolhead to the other side of the Z axis
Wait. A second Z axis?
Like a portal printer?
well a Z axis on the toolhead itself
so kind of like a 2nd Z
more like a 2nd motion in Z
ooooh
nah
oh nvm i got what he meant
just add a little rail and motors to the toolheaed
a lot of added complexity, just how I like it
how will that even work in the software
Z tilt using only one point and probing the nozzles, RRF would do it easily with a macro
or like a Z tilt
same kind of macro
but modified for only 1 point and using a 2nd stepper which would be U axis or something like that
probe tool 0, probe tool 1, adjust tool one, repeat until it is in the specified range
that sounds like way too much complexity
that's the whole point of it
I'm not listening to the scope creep king😂
?easy
Why is it that no matter how much 3d printers evolve there's always some mf with an ender 3 dogging on everyone
This is true evolution. The Ender 3 is the start, and the finish.
probably the best frame among bed slingers for the bed size tbh
you sure about that?
what the fuck is this
no because there are no forces there
and there are 3 rows of 4040 under the bed that also support the 2020 for the bed
also the bed has no springs it is directly bolted to 4 carriages on the linear rails
how much does it weigh/
uh I don't know
@spare harbor how much does your ender weigh?
it's my design that my friend built but it is quite heavy
we had to be 2 to transport it, partially because it is bulky but also heavy
Put some caster wheels on it lol
lmao I bullied him into doing that for the update
Smh double shear where
it is getting double sheer
FYI this whole build was made in 4 days, from only having the frame in the CAD to having it printing at 350mm/s 50k at quality in 4 days is pretty hard
whats the gear ratio at the top?, do you have a post i dont wanna clog up kevins forum
Can't imagine that
I'm too lazy
we were getting really way too close to MRRF when he got the frame and he decided that he really wanted it to be on the new frame because it was on the old one last year
so he basically forced me to design it in like a day and then we had to itterate some parts while I was driving the 14h to get to the convention
it's all on 20t
no gear ratio
it's tensioners at the top
and no I don't have a post
kevin is once again getting his project post clogged up by some more nonsense
no it has a keyback
a lil spring thing to keep it from dropping
key bak
it shall be posted one day on github
I already have like 4 posts that I am not updating so don't want to make more
one day
im trying to redo the frame on a kp3s keeping all the components, knowing what option there are for double belted z implementions would be really nice
just like there is no post about the tantillus
yeah poor kevin
You can leave a discord media link in the opening message
And it will add it
Like that
220 bed seems a little small for idex ngl
It’s like 100 per extruder
its 220 per extruder if the frame is wode enough to park each extruder off the bed. And rhe Ender3 bed has a full size of 235
copy/mirrror mode are not ised as often as you think. In copy mode you have 110x235
in mirror mode you have to subtract half the head width to avoid collisions
That’s not much
depends on the use case
benchies are like 30mm wide
Yeah so he could
shouldn't be that bad no?
Kevin is adding a wider X gantry beam IIRC
To have enough to fully park at the ends
So bed usage is entirely based on toolhead width which he seems to also be trying to cut down on
yeah, except mirror mode
I am well aware of these things from building CR-Cast https://discord.com/channels/167661427862142976/1091265813077573696
Nah, it's perfect. If you need multiples of the same print, they often fit on 100x230 mm just fine
I know
I just talk too much
heyyy @spare harbor do you have that z offset macro?
[gcode_macro SET_FIRST_LAYER_Z_OFFSET]
gcode:
{% set z_offset = (params.FIRST_LAYER_TEMP|float - 150) * 0.001 %}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z={z_offset}
SET_FIRST_LAYER_Z_OFFSET FIRST_LAYER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
Is your new toolhead design in the cad
I think I like it better than the 5015s not going to lie
It's specifically for idex
It's slim, and has z offset adjustment, and has two places to attach belt
Ill make it work
did that paste into discord right?
oh do i get rid of that last line since the math is in the first line
That last line is for slicer
ahhhhhhhh sure
The carto peeps seemed to like it at first, but don't think it went anywhere
Apparently it’s a feature baked into Klipper’s experimental features
Someone in the Siboor discord pointed that out to me recently
idk if it works exactly the same but it’s pretty similar
Oh nice
Wait what
It moves the Z axis down? 
That's the opposite of mine
¯_(ツ)_/¯
I move it up bc the hotend expands
one guy was very passionately arguing that your macro was useless because of this feature lol
I guess you could use a negative value?
I mean, I'd love it if the feature worked and made my macro useless
That's just better for everyone
I think i asked before, but that macro is for z offset based on nozzle temp? How would you calibrate the values for it
But we gonna have to try it out first
Find the slope
gist is get your z offset at 150 and 250, take the difference and divide by 100
Mm per c

it's pretty much caveman levels of simple, which is a part of why I love it so much
the results are so nice too
I will be taking a break for a week bc I'm really busy with skl
Best of luck
Smart move, good luck in your studies
does anyone know what bearing this uses?
625
Ty
625ZZ
hey @spare harbor i saw your log but cant read every msg as its too long so can you summarise all upgrades?? please
new toolhead
awd y
doublesheer everthing
Pin x tensioner
linear rail x and y
New toolhead
Aka look at: #1328881687853137942
#1328881687853137942 message
#1328881687853137942 message
Are you planning on using the 3090, or are you sticking to the 4040?
Probably sticking to 4040
Monika said hers wasn't that worth it
Unless you are getting a custom bed anyways
Bullshit
She also got scammed hard
It literally halves the weight
Hers was like 120 usd
I'm buying a premade stinger bed, not cutting cancer sheets in my apartment
Oh wait cf bed
She doesn't have a cf bed, just carriage
How does cf bed even work
I think the stinger just comes with CF bed+carriage
Is it just a cf sheet with a silicone heater on the bottom?
Have to imagine that sucks to print on, crazy insulative
Weird
CF sheet with kapton heater
Id maybe try that, but tbh i feel like weight doesn't change much, my printer goes about as fast without the bed as with
okayyy kevin you win that sounds expensive
also kevin could you share ur klipper config
i thought u were x limited
LDO sent me 4 motors
huh
there's nothing special. just use the config for your board
i mainly wanted to see the is settings
wdym
Wait are you getting an extension board for more drivers?
prunt has 6 drivers
do you really need lightweight bed on an idex?
For the occasional speed print
ive decided that im gonna idex on another printer
and leave this one speedy
Not after idler and ds
oh
time to update the title again then 
on an ender, just another one
Just one more ender...
Which printer?
one more ender
Okay but hear me out, custom built frame
Aka frame made of 4080 
And a 4080 C extrusion for the X axis
so a cnc mill?
No, a cnc mill is made of granite epoxy only, 4080 is just filled with granite epoxy 
https://github.com/kanin2/KevEnder github link in his bio
World's fastest 3D printer. Contribute to kanin2/KevEnder development by creating an account on GitHub.
Yeah, it's using the stock carriage and bed
Would the long shaft 2504's work?
For x and y
Right now I'm swapping out my Y axis with the LH stinger carbon fiber bed, and long shaft 2504
Sick, should i get a shorter one for x or just get a long one
Id just get long for everything so it is easy to double shear 9mm belts
Is your y good for 9mm?
No
Well
Wait
I think you’d have to modify his Stl files
But if you do that it would be
I have the cad
Kevin correct me if I’m wrong tho
My Y isn't good for 9mm bc it's made for standard length motor shaft and stock Y carriage
I will go 6 then
Those rails better be good. That's literally double what I paid
And why TF did you get vindr fans when you're not even gonna do HT
30 dollars per stepper😭😭😭😭😭
The build plate
Whats wrong with the plate
40 dollars
Idk i like west3d quality
For a 10 dollar product
I dont mind
Ig
I aint waiting 4 more fucking weeks like aliexpress is doing to me
What’s ur toolbesd
Is cpap js bad
CF bed
9
13
1
Yes
Nice
Bros eating rice and beans that he has to cook on the print bed😭
But at least it's cf
I am buying 3 printers and am gettin bullied into putting chube and lgx pro on them 
it shall also be me
and I am also expected to make it crazy for some reason
like AWD and all that
just how it should be
no, not yay, I am going to go in debt
I only have nema 23's and 24's and even still
or some cheap chinese steppers
Get 2504 instead of the 2804
2804 are vfa hell
Frfr omc supremacy
CNA rails lmao
Uuuh maybe don't
It's very incomplete
definitely not
Tbh, I am making something similar too.
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
if you want it, sure
but I really dont think youll have a good time doing it
im not wrong
yes you are fry
No bickering in other peoples projects please and stay civil @honest island @granite bough
is bickering in messages allowed or no






ty

