#[Help] Transparent filament and transparent resin for commissioned clear print

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

quasi geode
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Hey everyone!

I've got a bit of a project on my hands and I could use some advice. As some of you may know, I'm in the process of preparing to move to a new apartment. However, a relative of mine has commissioned me to print a series of large transparent snowflakes.

I've explained to them that it could be done with both filament and resin printing techniques, and I've seen transparent resins online, but I'm not sure if there's such a thing as transparent filament spools. Do they even exist?
The picture I've attached to this post is a demonstrative example of how they expect the print to turn out. However, I don't know what resin (or resin brand) would give the best result (and the same goes for transparent filaments).

To make things more interesting, the weather here has been less than cooperative. It's been mostly cloudy and rainy for the last couple of weeks, so using natural sunlight to UV cure the prints, as some of you recommended, is currently off the table.

Given the circumstances, and the fact that these snowflakes are a commissioned work, I've decided to invest in a SUNLU "UV Resin Curing Box RC-2 (2nd Generation)", which is already on its way to my place.

So, here are my questions:
1. For those of you who have worked with transparent resin, how long should a print stay in the Curing Box to achieve the desired level of transparency (as shown in the picture)? Also, could you recommend any specific brands that would give the best results?
2. And for the filament experts, what’s the recommended printing temperature to get a properly transparent look? Are there any specific brands of transparent filament that you would recommend?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

5-pezzi-decorazioni-per-la-casa-di-natale-ornamenti-in-cristallo-acrilico-fiocco-di-neve-alce.jpg_640x640.jpg_.png
kindred lavaBOT
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AI Help

  1. When working with transparent resin, the curing time can vary depending on the specific brand and type of resin being used. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for curing times to achieve the desired level of transparency. As for specific brands, some popular choices for transparent resin include Anycubic, Elegoo, Siraya, and Nova3D.

  2. Achieving a transparent look with filament printing can be a bit trickier compared to resin printing. Transparent filament usually requires higher printing temperatures to ensure proper adhesion and clarity. A recommended printing temperature for transparent PLA filament is around 200-220°C, but it's important to check the specific recommendations from the filament manufacturer. Some reputable brands for transparent filament include eSUN, Hatchbox, and Overture.

I hope this information helps with your project. Best of luck with your snowflake prints!

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
quasi geode
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I forgot to ask about SUNLU "3D Printer Resin Detergent". I'm considering it for cleaning my resin prints before UV curing. I know many use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), but I'm curious about your experiences with this SUNLU detergent.

Specifically, I'm interested in its effectiveness compared to IPA, any impact on the final transparency of the prints, and its overall user-friendliness. Your insights could help me decide whether to stick with IPA or try this detergent. Thanks in advance!

3D_Printer_Resin_Detergent.png
kindred lavaBOT
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sick mesa
kindred lavaBOT
quasi geode
# sick mesa ?clearprinting

Thanks, that link could help a lot. Though I need to check whether my Kobra Neo can print PETG or not 🤔

sick mesa
kindred lavaBOT
sick mesa
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Left yes, right not really

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But you can upgrade to an all metal heatbreak

quasi geode
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I see

kindred lavaBOT
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PTFE Temperatures
TL;DR: Do not heat PTFE above 230C for long periods of time, and never above 260C.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, a.k.a. PTFE, a.k.a. Teflon, is a polymer renowned for its extremely low coefficient of friction. It is used in many industrial and domestic applications, most famously in non-stick pans. Relevant to us, PTFE is used as Bowden tubing and heatbreak liners in 3D printers for ease of filament transport. This places the polymer in close contact with areas where high temperatures are routinely encountered.

PTFE will begin to pyrolyze at 220 degrees centigrade. It will begin off-gassing at significant amounts at 240. At 260, this process will have accelerated to the point where the structural integrity of your tubing will have been compromised. Most contemporary citations focus not on the physical decomposition of PTFE but on the health effects of byproducts used in its manufacture. However one major health risk is directly attributable to PTFE pyrolysis: Polymer fume fever.

Polymer fume fever, or colloquially "Teflon flu", is a condition caused by overexposure to fumes (over the course of 4-8 hours) caused by the decomposition of PTFE. The advanced respiratory metabolism of birds make them particularly sensitive to polymer fumes, which leaves them at high risk of death in environments where such fumes are prevalent. Further reading is linked below.

Further reading

?ptfetemps requested by: m.von.d#0
sick mesa
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Thats why btw

quasi geode
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Just checked ANYCUBIC website, and it seems PETG is among the printable filaments, with a max nozzle temperature of ≤260℃ and ≤110℃ for the bed

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The PTFE Tube shouldn't have any problem, 'coz this is how it's structured in the Kobra Neo

immagine.png
sick mesa
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Ofc you can print petg at 260ºC but you will burn up the ptfe tube, clogging the printer and releasing all kinds of fun toxic fumes

quasi geode
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Hmm...I see 🤔 so we could say the design they came up with for the stock nozzle is kinda...flawed for this kind of projects?

sick mesa
quasi geode
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A Capricorn PTFE Tube could do the trick?

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I saw a lot of people saying those PTFE Tubes are much better than the stock white ones

sick mesa
kindred lavaBOT
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Capricorn
Capricorn lists melting temps, not degradation temps when advertising their PTFE tubing.

Capricorn tubes have a unique selling point in that their quality control ensures accurate inner and outer diameters of extrusion. This is in contrast to generic manufacturers who may not have as stringent a requirement for manufacturing.

A 1.9mm ID (inner diameter) has been shown to help in reducing hysteresis when extruding flexible filaments in a Bowden setup but in other setups, i.e. filament with a higher variance in diameter, this can actually become detrimental. Use best judgement when deciding what form or brand of PTFE to use in your printer.

Capricorn tubing is relatively high quality for its price point, but there is insufficient independent evidence to show that it has more thermal resistance to pyrolysis than "generic" PTFE tubing. One difficulty in testing is that due to the colorants in the PTFE resin, the distinctive "browning" of degradation or pyrolysis is much harder to detect. Another point of concern is to do with Capricorn's line of translucent "TL" PTFE. Though the exact composition of their resin remains proprietary, the nature of PTFE and related fluoropolymers speculatively suggests the addition of PFA or FEP (which are optically transparent) into the mix. The issue with this is that both PFA and FEP have lower working temperatures than PTFE. PFA is rated to a similar ceiling of 260 C but has a higher thermal conductivity whereas FEP undergoes degradation at temperatures as low as 200 C. Unfortunately without further evidence, this must remain speculative.

?capricorn requested by: m.von.d#0
sick mesa
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Still bog standard ptfe tube with marketing attached

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As said: All metal heatbreak or poisonous fumes🤷

quasi geode
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I see 🤔 guess I'll have to search for an all-metal heatbreak compatible with my Kobra Neo, while also searching for alternatives. I wonder if there is transparent PLA as well?

sick mesa
quasi geode
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I see

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But perhaps it can be printed at a lower temp compared to PETG

sick mesa
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If you go for a frosted translucent it would probably work

sick mesa
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To get good results

quasi geode
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Guess I can investigate both the all-metal heatbreak for the printer and transparent PLA for this

sick mesa
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And PLA would be really really slow since you cant really use cooling and pla stays soft for a long time without it

quasi geode
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I guess so 🤔 Though first I gotta find a brand that actually sells it. Maybe OVERTURE does (their transparent PETG was recommended in the previous Thingiverse link)

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On the other hand, regarding the resin printing alternative, do you happen to have any recommended transparent resin?

sick mesa
quasi geode
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😄

sick mesa
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Good luck

quasi geode
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thanks 🙂