#Help With Ender 3 V2 Neo Nozzle

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

blissful pulsarBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like your printer is experiencing an issue with the extruder temperature reading. This could be caused by a loose connection, a faulty temperature sensor, or inconsistent power supply. I recommend checking the connections of the temperature sensor, ensuring they are secure, and possibly updating the firmware of your printer. If the issue persists, you may need to contact the manufacturer for further assistance or consider replacing the temperature sensor.

wide fern
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It is possible the heater core is malfucntional

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This error means the extruder has not reached the minimum temp in the firmware to allow it to continue to extrude

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plastic

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I would check the machine see if the temprature is above 170c

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if it is not and you were printing mid print

tepid nebula
# wide fern It is possible the heater core is malfucntional

In the ender 3 there is two little beads that help keep track of the temps, i think they were loose so i tightened the screw a little bit, i hope that helped a little but if the issue continues i will keep this open if it doesnt then i will prob close it thanks so much

wide fern
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it could indicate a malfunction or loose connection of the hotends heater cartridge

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You are not getting ADC out of range error this one would indicate the thermistor or heater is broken or there is a large deviation in the PID tune that it detected so it shutdown

tepid nebula
wide fern
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there is probably only oner

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that goes into the heating block

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If that malfunctions the mention is going to show u a different error tho

tepid nebula
wide fern
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My advice is to not print anything and heat the hotend up to 200c

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and see what happens

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This way you can watch it

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and see how its heating

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and see if any error shows up while its heated

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that might have happend before the below extruder temp msg

tepid nebula
wide fern
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or its fallen out

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or something else

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In which case its detecting the wrong temp and thinks the printer is NOT hot when it is

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this is very bad

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as it you will easily heat creep and or over heat the machine as it wont know when to stop

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heating

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I would honestly start by inspecting the thermistor and heating cartridge connection

tepid nebula
wide fern
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thats not right

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there is a hardware fault

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with the thermistor or the heating cartridge, inspect both of them visually

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and inspect the connection is secure

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Then turn machine back on, heat the hotent to 200c and just watch see if its stable etc

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you may have to PID tune the machine again after all this

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PID tuning ensures the machine heating is tuned as in it helps the machine maintain a steady temprature

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You may wish to simply just do these exact steps

  • Inspect visually the heater and thermistor on the hotend.
  • Inspect the cable connections are secure
  • repair if needed
  • Power on the machine and run through a Hotend PID Tuning.
  • Test the heating by manually heating the hotend without print running to 200c and just let it sit for a while and make sure its stable nothing goes wrong
tepid nebula
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In your opinion should i let my current print finish, or should I cut it short and inspect it, or could i break it if i left it on overnight and got the same error again

tepid nebula
wide fern
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But I can tell you the thermistor is not 100% broken

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or it would never print even reach the UI lol

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The machine would show a whole other error and not even start up

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correctly without a working connected thermistor

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but something is defo wrong

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Honestly it could just need a PID tune

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this would be needed if the SOCK was removed and never re tuned

tepid nebula
wide fern
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I would just follow these steps in order #1252514412355522590 message

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To verify the machine is in working order

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Then see if problem persisted

tepid nebula
wide fern
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Most of the time its jus a simple connection loose or thermistor has come loose or its PID tune

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its still heating and reading temps it not just doing so reliably

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which in my opinion makes it a fire risk

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as any safe guards won't trigger when they should because whon knows what temp it really is at and there is no phsyical fault with the thermistor because its reading something

tepid nebula
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im genuinely so thankful for ur help thank you so much man it means so much

wide fern
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This seems like a fairly straight fwd maintence task

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You may wish to consider upgrading things at some point

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not needed but it may help resolve needing to fix it again

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I personally perfer heating blocks which have the cartridge style thermistors

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rather than the beads

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more like this

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beads break really easily when u screw them in too tight

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The bead is ok just be VERY careful when you put the screw back in, only tighten it until the screw starts to offer resitance to turning that is plenty tight enough 🙂

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if you over do it will sever the cable and the thermistor bead is dead!

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They are super cheap to replace but is hassle I don't think u want to deal with rtn

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I carry spares of everything hotend related but you might not

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I would visually inspect the bead though, and the entire hotend

tepid nebula
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Do you think I should fully unscrew the screw holding the bead and inspect it ?

wide fern
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You 100% need to get eyes on this hotend as its not heating correctly and its heating in ways that I don't expect to be PID related

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If its going from 200 to 150 rto 180 randomly during a print thats not PID related

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that is a phsyical problem

wide fern
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You may need to heat hotend a wee bit to say 80c first

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but since u cant do that really well I would not risk it

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Sometimes plastic can get up into the block

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esp if u ever had a big blob on hotend

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this can make the bead get stuck

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Honestly just keep it simple for now

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  • Take the covers off the hotend, unscrew the themristor bead, pull it out inspect it, maybe send a photo
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  • Do the same thing for the heating core
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  • provided they are not black and look to be in workin order, put them both back then gently tighten up the screws until you start feeling resistance.
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  • Check the cabling to make sure its connected securely and has no damage (look for cracks in the cable, burns, exposed wire), and check the connector is connected to your machine securely.
  • If above shows you any issues report back here with findings and pictures, otherwise proceed to power the machine back on and run a hotend PID tune
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  • Then heat the hotend to 200c and see how reliable it is
tepid nebula
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Hey man I just kind of adjusted everything and took a look at the bead and everything seems perfectly fine, I heated it to 200c and now it’s staying at a perfect 200c! It’s not going over or under at all just a perfect 200 degrees thanks so much!!

wide fern
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I run a PID tune again to sure

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Jus the hotend PID tune would be ok you can not worry about doing a BED PID Tune.

wide fern
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Something must had been loose

tepid nebula
# wide fern They must have been loose

Pretty sure, now everything is running smoothly, I will do PID to be sure everything is working correctly but I’m 90% sure that it was just something loose

wide fern
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PID Tune Combats temperature swings – PID tuning. Temperature fluctuations are sneaky. They creep in and can mess up a print before you even realize what’s happening. But with PID tuning, we reduce these pesky fluctuations. It’s like putting guardrails on a winding road. This way, we keep the temperature from going too high or dipping too low, ensuring our prints are always in the ‘Goldilocks zone’ – just right.

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Identifying the Need for PID Tuning​
So, how do you know it’s time for some PID tuning action? Well, there are a few tell-tale signs. Maybe you notice your prints aren’t coming out as nicely as they used to, or you see the temperature is bouncing around more than a ping-pong ball during a print. These are classic signs that your printer is saying, “Hey, I need a little tune-up here!”

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I suspected it might have also been related to PID regard your porblem, but since we needed to be sure its usually a good idea to inspect the hotend components at same time

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Any major fluctuations like you were having can become a fire risk and you nor I knew if the connections were solid