Tronxy x5sa

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This is my Tronxy x5sa that i bought cheap for 90 Euros [96 USD] second hand.

I am going to show here what i plan on doing / what i am doing with my Tronxy x5sa
Right now its a pretty standard 330x330x400 CoreXY printer

At the moment i am in the middle of swapping Hotend to the standard V6 (I do plan on going either Revo V6, Revo Roto or Revo Hemera one day once i can afford it lol)

My plans so far are:

• Swapping Hotend (as i am doing right now and swap again for one of the Revos)
• Add Spring steelshet for Printbed
• Add decent Linear Rails as guides (400mm for XY)
• Swap MB to a BTT one
• Add BTT Raspi
• Configure Klipper for it
• Change current ABL to a Eddy / Cartographer3D so i can also get Input Shaper
• Make a Enclouser
  ~ In the far future maybe make it also be able to be used as CNC ????

sadly gotta wait on Aliexpress for Heatset Inserts to finish the Hotend assembly 😦

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cool!

Where did you buy it from? (the X5SA)

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Used from Ebay Kleinanzeigen
was one of the cheapest available so it was quite the steal

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Nice...

I'll just follow your's and m.von.d's build...maybe I'll make one someday 🙂

seems easier to start building on top of something that already exists rather than assembling from scratch

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But also the Print Bed isnt anywhere great
i can maybe get it down to Var: 0.35-4 but not any better

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uff

you could swap it

is it the bed or the plate?

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yea also if u get a cheap used one its rly cheap compared to full self build
first i planned on doing a 100% diy build but its just expensive compared

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idk i think bed tho
cant test it rn as its not assembled atm lol

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vorons :

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Ill most likely do tho

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oh wait it's glass bed..

woops

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yea for example Vorons
a ~300x300 is like 700 Euros

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nope mines metal lmao
idk if its standard or not

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metal

ok that's interesting

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yea ill most likely swap both the bed and sheet so i can have a PEI Spring sheet

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Heyooo😁 nice find especially for the price. For a CNC spindle you will need a much sturdier frame than the x5sa.

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Yea ik thats why far future as it wouldnt be impossible but hard

Already saw frame hardeners through metal rods etc

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Ok so after putting everything together this list (excluding Enclouser and CNC) will cost me around 380-400 Euros 😢
With Revo v6 and Orbitor for Hotend assembly
a BTT Octopus pro v2 + Btt pi
everything of Aliexpress tho (except Cartographer3D for Z sensor and a sensor for Input Shaping)

will order things once i got money but that will take time lol

also maybe ill add something like a BTT EBB expansion board for the hotend
one of those in the picture

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hey that doesn't sound that bad...

I mean a voron is like twice that much

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yea compared to voron its not to bad
still 4x what i payed for the printer itself lol

but also basically most upgrades are around the same price then what i payed

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well the printer is basically just the frame...

so yeah

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i think in the end only the frame and hotbed will be original

and psu

so yup almost only the frame

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Theres also alix sale from tomorrow so you might get the octopus etc cheaper. Have an eye out

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sadly im poor rn xD
ill able to order some stuff soon but only a bit

most things ill order in like september since then my work starts

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Welp just fried a 5v Fan through the 24v fan port 👍
prob also the board as other 24v fans dont work through that port anymore

ig im ordering new mainboard earlier then planned

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Ah damn

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Quick question
do u think the BTT Manta E3EZ would work on the tronxy?
https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-manta-e3ez-v1-0-for-ender3-ender3pro-ender5?variant=40214245081186
id get with the 5 2209 drivers and the display

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Yeah would surely work (basically any board with any basic hardware works). For that price you could also get the octopus pro with 8 2209 drivers.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQoyQ83 H723 with 8x TMC2209 is what I got.

It gives a lot of headroom for all sort of things

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Does the octopus support colored screens ? if ye wich would could i use with it

kinda want that feature seems cool

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Yeah sure

No clue which but probably a btt one would be a safe bet

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through what connection do they generaly go?
bcs as far as i see octopus pro doesnt have one compared to the manta

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yeah I was wrong, sorry. As far as I understand it, you connect the BTT TFF to the CB1 on the manta, right? Meaning you would have to do the same for the Octopus.

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This sick fiberlogy pastel mint is gonna be the color imma use on the tronxy
Looks amazing

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Ya'll with your colorful printers

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black on black is boring smh
i got a orange prusa mini a red elegoo and then a black on black tronxy ?
na

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I just found out why basicaly nothing from thingiverse fit my tronxy

My base mount plate for the hotend is weitd

Weird*

Some screws are just not where they are supossed to be

The bottom two of the printed part just dont fit at all

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Probably x5sa and x5sa pro

Just drill and tap

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Well if people would post if its pro or not online id be fine

But ill just most likely re modell the files i need

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Big order!
Klipper is gonna be so nice for this
Should all arive within the next 8 days

• in a few days ill order magnetic bed

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doesn't the EBB36 has an adxl on it? Or do you want to add the other one to the bed?

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Yea ill either put on bed or use as temp for my Prusa mini
As i have changed the head

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Motherboard just arrived
Sadly still gotta wait on the other parts

Also ordered a magnetic bed + a heater fan that i wanna test

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Crazy achivement! First motor movement on new board
Alone setting up klipper took me like almost 4 hours now

And im not even done bcs all my other orders from ali havent arrived yet 😢

ok well now im basically just waiting on packages
i think like 12 Aliexpress packages are on their way xD
all just for this printer

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Ok i may try to move out the linear guides to make the bed more stable
should work
will be a pain to mount them tho prob

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Not with the original parts 🤔

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mostly yes
the mounts printed
i took out the bearings from the old holder
and ill use the old metal parts to support it more by connecting each side withitself (the 3 printed parts per side) and both sides with each other

the main idea is to move out the rods more to increase stability

heres with all parts (just not the metal original parts as support)

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Just finished printing the bed mount
Cant mount it yet to printer as i still have to make new holes for the linear guides
But looks good so far

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Finally magnet plate here

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Can i cut the magnet base were the screws are ?

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The heating element is slightly inset from the edge. But be very careful

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How do you keep it from swiveling back and forth?

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Its not on yet just layed it on the bed

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I mean the whole bed

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Im swapping the mount
Was just a test to see if it works
But ill go 3 point linear guides with stepper motors

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I have no clue how to describe what I mean

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That hydra mount thing

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Almost all orders are here now
Just gotta wait until i can replace my motherboard and i can finally start again

Also this heater is gonna be interresting

It says 50W power +-25% lmao

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50W is comparativel tame 😄

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Yea ik but +-25% is funny

Like its a big range

*relatively

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24V or mains?

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12V

fan is DC heater can do both

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Ok finally my Octopus board is here (after i killed the last one)
setup everything last night

now printing new hotend mount for everything

then hopefully i can do my first print soon

still gotta find out how to setup BTT Eddy coil tho

bcs i can only find eddy usb guides

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What did you do to it?😆

Or did I just forget it?

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no idea
out of no where it just went ultra hot
like 60-70 degrees within a second or two of boot

without anything connected

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The printer moves !

An abomination my cables right now

But we are ignoring that

It moves!

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Everything is mounted!
(Well except the ptfe tube i lost apperantly)
Also i have to make the ebb cabel longer as it currently cant reach the homing pos

Once i got that fixed maybe i can do my first mesh bed using the eddy

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Welp ig my printer has even more colors now

My cyan petg ran out mid print and i only had red petg left

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Alright looking half decent
Just need to print pi mount and wire everything somewhat clean and i should be ready to start calibrating

I gotta say tho i really like this electronics mount atm
Easy access to everything

Once i got chamber tho it will be below the printer so it isnt in the heat chamber

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it may not be able to Home rn
but atleast the bed mesh looks so amazing

its a 20 by 20 point grid in a few seconds

BTT Eddy is just so cool

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I want to hit myself....
ive been trying to fix my weird homing for the whole day

just to now see that endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_y:virtual_endstop was on stepper x and endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop on stepper y .....

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What do we think of my amazing input shaper curves
i guess u could say my printer is totally rigid LMAO

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Not bad
0.2 Range

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Im in love with my magnetic print bed
The smooth side makes the prints look basically like a mirror

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Jesus it only now starts to hit me how crazy large 330x330 is in print time
i thought yea ill print like 30 little screw containers (like 4cm tall)
that shit would take 25h
and thats not even the full plate
jesus

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Yeah its massive

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ok new curve looks WAY better
far from good
but way better
y got a bid worse and idk why
but x is not as bad anymore

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New Direct Drive Extruder 🧐

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How cutr

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What an upgrade compared to my last hotend Assembly

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I think once i got all corner braces on (Still missing in Y Direction) it should look pretty good

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First Print starts!

(With new extruder)

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Nice

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First to current benchy (plus a cube)

Only gotta fix my part cooling duct as its more blowing against the heater then against the nozzle

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LEDs and new Tubing Arrived
nothing special but looks better
hopefully this time the leds are the correct ones

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well i just realized i cant really use the leds untill i have the new motion system for the bed lol

bcs the bed screws are in the way of where i would mount the leds

and on the inside i cant bcs the rollers for print head moves

only possible position rn is in the front but that would annoying to wire and not where i want them in the end so ig im waiting

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Anyone got recomandations where i can order enclouser parts in germany ?
like cheap ones that can be large enough?

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Cheap is very strechable😅

https://kunststoffplattenonline.de/

These cut to your specs

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well yea but a price that doesnt cost 2x the printer lol

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this stuff is rather cheap but wont be structural https://amzn.eu/d/57jgr3z

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also what should i use plexi pvc acryl ?

or smt else

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Not these specifically but these as a concept

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Polycarbonate has the best heat resistance. PVC is too chlorinated for my taste.

You could get OSB or multiplex boards

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2mm is fine right? doesnt need to be to thick

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Especially if you have a car and a hardware store nearby

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2mm is very flimsy

Thick foil basically

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yea but the printer is in my bedroom and dont really wanna have a OSB box laying here so id rather go something more appealing

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Paint/foil

Car foil

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eh idk

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how thick should i get?

i could use OSB for bottom / back but def not for the front

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3 minimum I would say. 2 mm probably works too

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oh yea that website is def ok priced
50cmx50cmx3mm 13,70
thats not bad

def better then the site i found few weeks back

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your sides are 50 cm x 50 cm?🤔

530x500 bottom top

530x570 front back

500x570 sides
those would be my measurements edge to edge

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It was just what they had standard as input didn't go and measure anything as I don't have mounts yet

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👆those above are the edge to edge measurements

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Ok so im planning to remake the bed mount and go with linear guides
do i go for 3 linear guides or 4 ?
on 3 id need 1 more 2020 alu profile
for 4 id need a extra motor

what do yall think?

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4 rails overconstrain the bed (3 points define a plane).

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ight
if i do 1 point in the back
2 in the front corners
should i use a 2020 to connect the front corners or not?
saw both across diffrent printers
(all 3 connection points will have a motor and most likely also a driver on theire own)

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With triple z you want independent motors for all 3 motors

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Where would that 2020 go?

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like that

and the linear rail on the 2020

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yeah thats where I have mine. As I learned the hard way, triple z is much more involved than it seems.

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wdym

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You wrote front corners, that confused me

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Kinematic bed mounts

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yea 2 linear rails on the front 2020 profiles and 1 linear rail in the back middle was my plan

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Ignore the brackets, thats just temporary

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yea like that was my plan

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(And the rods and rails on top)

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Lmao just did some prints again after like 4 weeks
why is my project x5sa printing better and more reliably then my prusa mini rn

thats just funny

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Ok i think i might swap out my BTT Eddy sensor
I love how it works for first layer and how fast it is
but especialy the BTT Eddy aint it

i might swap to a Cartographer v3 i think those should work better

my eddy gives me a error on like every second print

like the cartographer atleast has decent docs and a discord to ask people for help
btt eddy is just dead in that

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Started designing my bed mounts for linear rails

Would this work?
(3 point 2 in front on either side 1 in the back middle just like in the picture from mvd)

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just designed all 3 mounts + Motor mounts
no idea if this design will work with bed screws
i could use ball mounts but id kinda prefered if screws would work

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https://github.com/VzBoT3D/VzBoT-UserMods/tree/master/pbsuper/VZTrident/VZT330_400/TripleZ take a look.

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this will not work with the leveling screws like this

the bed needs to be able to move a bit in the mounts.

but Kudos for designing yourself

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so rather go with ball mounts?
saw RatRig uses a weird magnet and rollers is that needed or could i just plump the bed with the ball screws into a "hole"?

#1269472015308558346 message

like his bed mount is here

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I will™️ use balls on steel rods with a "leaf spring" instead of magnets to hold the bed

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ok so but i should use something then just a printed part?

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just the bed on a printed part? would probably work but wouldn't be too durable I think

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something like this?
yellow is just a metal rod that i either glue in or smt
and the black thing below is a magnet ill lay in there?

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yes basically

rods could just be friction fitted

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alright perfect
then i think i should be able to design and print it soon
hopefully i can order everything and have it ready by the end of the month got a week off there

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make sure you get steel balls that are actually magnetic

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oh yea right should check that lol

Ok redesigned them all now
also moved the lead screw in the back out of the way to make it a bit simpler to assemble

also gotta order some ABS / ASA soon if i plan on getting a enclosure
i think im gonna go with a Joker theme
or anyone got another idea?

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Look into oldham couplers for the leadscrews

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Why not the same as the others use?

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The others? Original ones? Oldhams reduce impacts by the leadscrews iirc

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Something like this ?

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ah no. The other ones

For the brass nut

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Ahh u mean on the bed mount?

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mmmh
i dont think this will be strong enough
i would put the linear rail inside (wher the gantry 2020 profile is rn) but then id have to cut down the gantry 2020 profile by like 24mm and redo screw holes

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Cartographer is here gonna try to install it today

Didn't even design a mount yet

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Just ordered 175 euros worth of stuff on aliexpress 😭

Let's hope I have everything I need to redo whole motion system

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I lost my Printer Slicer Profile 😢

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also all parts besides the 2020 profile and the magnets arrived
2020 profile should be here soon
magnets at the end of the month sadly only

so either ill have to rebuild it in one or two weekends or ill do it around christmas sadly

no time anymore 😢

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Feel you🫂

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I hate this feeling of having every single piece I need for the upgrade
But no time to even print the parts 😢

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looks at built frame 🥲

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What do we think of this palette?

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First Bed Mounting part

Doesn't look half bad

Just have to reprint bcs massive warping but otherwise works well

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Had a tiny layer shift at the end
But it works so ig it's fine

Looks promising

Goal for tmr is to print the other 2 parts and probably glue in the magnets and rods

As they don't press fit

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So I think it's time for an update lol
I mean it's been like 3 months by now

I've finally managed to build the Gantry
Went VzBot route with a bit of a modified x setup and obv different tool head

The Print bed is also being changed to triple Z setup
I have everything printed and ready for it...but my m3 t nuts went ran out so I can't finish it today
Should come tmr so that's good

I've also finally managed to make a full CAD model of my printer
Makes it way easier to design models for my printer

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Eh well

first prints done and look good
def need to work on making the printer more stable though

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How did I manage to make both the bed and the x axis not straight

Like the bed isn't square towards the frame
And the x axis is even worse

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X axis is probably belt tension and too much play in the carriages

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Yea it's all a bit funky still

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Z Tilt:
Retries: 2/5 Probed points range: 0.000972 tolerance: 0.007500

i would say thats not bad at all

though we ignore my straight bed

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Why did I decide to go with the 3 point mount...

I should redo the bed mounts
So it's way more rigid and doesn't have the possibility to even fall out

Maybe even trap the steel balls inside or smt

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Why did your kinematic mount let go of your bed?

Also: Fix your wiring please🙏

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yea im kinda working on it 😆
Im getting a Stealthburner probably and then ill have to redo it anyways
not a fan of the biqu h2v2s anymore

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Ew stealthburner

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my mounts where not good at all (ill send a picture in a second)
and the nozzle alone had the ability to push it off

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Yeah probably not enough preload

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i think its cool
definitly better then h2v2
im not 100% about stealthburner toolhead yet
but ill redo the gantry to be Voron triden stly

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I mean you can do whatever you want of course

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Yeah nah

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like i dont know why i didnt think before that this is not enough to hold a 330x330 bed

lmao

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Steelballs way too big

Do you have magnets in there?

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15mm OD
more like print way to small
problem was only ASA printer was a voron 0 so i was kinda limited
but now my Prusa mini can print asa

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yes not visible due to angle

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Do they even hold onto the balls?

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New mount should 100% work better

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well its more that the ball holds the magnets currently

but the design was just generaly really bad

didnt put 2 thoughts into it
atleast ive realized that now

Im also definitly getting a metal toolhead mount
like the one from Cartographer
most likely even the one from Cartographer3d
since im using a carto sensor anyways

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Good thing i never said anything about "Budget" in this build
In total i have payed around 615€ for this printer...
and with the next plans being:
ERCF V2.5 (once it releases) with 8-12 Channels
Stealtburner + Voron Gantry
New Print bed + Silicon heater, ssr and fuse
ill be at like 1150...
couldve easily gotten a good Voron 2 kit for that

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whoops

happens

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Well ok a voron also doesn't have a cartographer and a mmu
But still

if you dont pay in one go you dont notice how fast the bill racks up haha

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OUCH
Just ordered 250 euros in parts and tools :/

New bed + heater + flex bed with magnet
2kg ASA
omron SSR
Wires / crimp tools and some wagos

Just to get a better bed and rewire my electronics so they are at the bottom

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add some thermal fuses and contactors to that 😄

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Oh yea I got fuses
But for what / where contactors?

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Contactors would provide another level of safety

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So in-between power supply and everything else?

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Put it in behind your ssr so even if the ssr fails shut the contactor can sever the connection

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https://amzn.eu/d/6jx6KRO

Like this ?

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Yeah german its Schütz

Make sure its 24V controlled

https://amzn.eu/d/dGIsL7L

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Does this one work?
https://amzn.eu/d/6AITT9A
Yours isn't available currently

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Probably the same internals

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Alright

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Everything arrived already
really didnt take long this time
like a week only damn aliexpress

gotta start with drilling the holes on the new plate first though 😰

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Measure twice etc

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yep
well as long as i dont do it to wrong i can just adjust my bed mounts
but 100% will try to not do that lol

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Would you mind helping me how i will have to wire the bed later ? now with the contactor

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I am currently in the ER and in no shape to do so unfortunately.

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Oh damn hope you get well soon

or who ever you are in the ER for

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Na its me thanks

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Test mounted half the Gantry for now
Just to check design and how it fits
Gotta say

Love the color scheme

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Just a slight difference between the old and new bed lmao

Old one was so thin

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It didn't burn down 🏆

Scary every time I rewire it

I will get din rails tmr and mount it properly

Just couldn't get them today

And damn 750 Watt bed heater ain't no joke

This shit quickly warms

This also works now
Just the other 2 LEDs currently arent

Very likely bcs of config though

my Bed now heats as fast (the sensor, due to the big ass bed both in size and thickness)

it does quickly spread though

sadly i dont have a heat cam to check

though just in the time of writing these 2 sentences it got warm enough (set to 90C) that i didnt want to touch it anymore in the corners+

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I think I just killed another Octopus board :/

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I didn't kill it!

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Not a single belt is long enough....

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New bed

not to bad

my configs still arent perfect especialy since im to close to the bed corners with my scanner

but its def 1000% better then the old

to be exact like 2.5-3x better then old bed

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Well ok i think its pretty obvious that one of my axis is pretty sturdy

and the other is well

that

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I think i might have to go 4 motors for the bed
the new bed weighs wayy more and the backside (the side with 1 motor) slowly creeps down always

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Pretty good prints finally

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ive reached the point already where my Tronxy is faster (even by a large amount) then my prusa mini!
probably even more difference bcs i would have to split up the parts on my prusa mini into more parts as it auto did it

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Does it count as janky if it works?

the camera view is really good

for the janky cable tie only mount xD

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Why did i always bother with making my own slicer profile
I just tried the Voron 2 Profile from Prusa Slicer
changed Print bed volume to be 330x330xx375
and it just works perfectly
almost perfect petg print with a extremely wet petg roll

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After ALMOST a year of doing nothing i finally decided to attack this....thing.
(And with that draining even more money into a bad printer! yay)

Started reworking the design fully in cad for now, new (hopefully) more rigid bed mounts. A internal Gantry instead of top mounted one to get a more rigid Frame.

And all in all together loosing even more height.
The Original tronxy x5sa had like 400mm print height i think? My current projected height will be less then 250mm.

But since i finally got myself a Voron v2.4 i dont really care, this project is jut pure having fun (and wasting money) now.