#PEKK-A-CHUBEEEEE (K3)
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
wait youre also building a K3?
yep lol
wasnt the vc4, vt, v2.4, V0, micron enough😂
started sourcing about the same time as threadlicker
and more probably
what was the most fun build so far?
thats a hard one
i really like the v0s, they are really nice 1 day builds that dont have you constantly flipping a 30+kg box all the time
positron was geat, obviously
they were all really fun though
my BOM
PEKK-A-CHUBEEEEE (K3)
?peekapeeka
plan is to print this in https://3dfilaprint.com/product/thermax-pekk-a-natural-1-75mm-500gms/
hence the name
Pccf parts in progress
Works surprisingly well on a voron
Oi, @prime reef , feel threatened
I'll feel threatened when @ancient wadi actually pulls it off smh my head
Besides pekkachu doesn't ring as nice
dw, this is pekk-a which is easier to print than peek
so it doesnt come close to what you did
Tbh CF-PEKK is goated
no, but pekk-a-chube does
You should try it
lol no
It's PEKK-AsIfKarlWillLetYouGetAwayWithIt
How about HTN-CF25 then
tf is that
Newest addition to SS tier on Karl's list
One of the only two SS-tier filaments in existence, according to me
whats the other?
I actually had it in S tier before but that's because I barely had a chance to play around with it
It got upgraded
MG94 ABS
what makes each of them so good
MG94 because it's literally perfect in every way for ABS
Strong, great interlayer adhesion, easy to print (as far as ABS's go), amazing surface finish
wow the HTN-CF25 isnt even hard to print
you could do it on a voron no problem
HTN-CF25 because it's a fuckin godly filament in practically every mechanical property
Like, I'm not sure how familiar you are with tensile strength and modulus numbers, but HTN-CF25 achieves 148MPa tensile strength and 16GPa tensile modulus in the axial directions
That's nuts
It's twice as stiff as the next stiffest filament I'm aware of
And like 50% stronger in tensile strength as well
i mean at one point i knew how to calculate those numbers but i have no intuition for what exact values mean
Well, to give you a frame of reference, ABS is typically around 35MPa tensile strength and 2GPa modulus
I don't remember PEKK-A off the top of my head let me check
im not printing pekk-a for the mechanical properties lol
im printing it so i can call my printer pekk-a-chube
PEKK-A is 105MPa strength and 2.75GPa modulus
Damn, that's already impressive
But still, HTN-CF25 is 148MPa and 16GPa
PLA in the most optimal conditions can reach tensile modulus of 4 GPa, 16 GPa is insane for a printable plastic
That's after annealing right?
I've never seen straight printed PLA above 3GPa
170 euro for 750g, thats over double pccf
Over double price for over double mechanical properties 😛
and over budget
Heat treatment doesn't seem to change E much looking at hardness
The highest Young’s modulus at the value of 4.42 GPa was obtained with a slight deviation under other samples exposed at the temperature of 70 °C and 80 °C.
In conclusion, post-heat treatment has minimal effect on the Young’s modulus of 3D printed PLA but it was largely effecting the fracture limit of the structure.
From https://doi.org/10.1016/j.matpr.2022.06.198
I see
Frame is deceptively small
i have been chubed
Looks good
just need evri to deliver my accent filament and i can actually continue
also turns out i have a 110v bed
so i need to get a new one
just found this post
yep, it exists lol
That's alot of rails
pf
you have some catching up to do
My rails are still on the way
Will prob buy the rest of the motion system next week and the enclosure+ filament so I can get to Printing
yay nice
Yeah got a friend with an x1c so he will print the PC for me
do your rails feel crunchy at all?
my HB rails felt pretty inconsistent and I was getting print artifacts until I swapped them out
dont tell me that....
then feel fine i think.... ill stick with them for now and swap out later if/when i need to
PCCF on an x1c......
i have my doubts....
btw, how have you oriented your steppers wires?
wait bottom left is wrong
like this
because sidepack
if backpack, then I would do the first one
ig better than on a ender 3 xD
surely if sidepack then it doesnt matter? i just rotate the whole image by 90 degrees
if you do the first orientation with sidepack, then you end up with the bottom left motor's wire running across the front
I do the second orientation to avoid seeing wires in the front
ahhhh good point, thanks
oh, check to see if you're able to mount your corner pieces
may need to change your rail mounting if the roll in nuts interfere
Ah....
No, they dont
But idk what I'm supposed to do about it, they just don't fit, nuts have nothing to do with it
Ohhhh I see
All lines up perfectly
The manual shows an orientation of the nuts that works
oh okay nice
Ty for the reminder to check though
When first print?
Ah from provok?
My k3rabiner arrives tomorrow... Well I hope 🤣
Nice, mine is still on its way from fabreeko to the guy I bought the kit from
XY drives are in
can i use sensorless homing? rn the carriages hit the pulleys/idlers when its at max or min
Wait what, the next step in the manual is installing printed parts for the endstops lol
I don’t like that order
My hex keys don’t fit if I don’t install the endstops first 
But yeah once those are in, the carriages won’t hit the pulleys anymore
So there are endstops and you don't use senseorless?
They’re called endstops
But there are no switches
They’re just places for the carriages to stop during homing
where can i find the printed parts for the chube toolhead?
Isn't that just a dragon mount?
idk, im using different fans too
ty, what about the fan ducts?
#910647734506258442 message
great tysm
idk how you are supposed to find those things if you dont already know where they are lol
Good question 
It definitely isn't easy to find
I only know cuz I get directly pinged
And a Provok3D sticker
indeed
holy