#(K3)tamine
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
doesnt mean it will last for a while
possible its fine, but there is a chance it might not
it now went to PayPal. still no answer from the guy
That looks amazing what brand of Asa?
Cr3d
Geez expensive
its not bad, ive used 3dxtech CF ASA for the entire printer and ordered like 3 spools
I thought talking about cost of the K3 was forbidden
i just dont think about it, i know its way over budged and i will cry in the corner if i would calculate how much it actually costed me
Printin
Making panels
I need to get panels...and figure out the top enclosure.
Yeah
Maybe later? 
Deff lol
Making dibond rn cuz it's free, wanted to upgrade to steel when I get the budget
So I'll wait 👀
How much is a steel frame if u gotta buy it somewhere
Galv would be 180 for everything
Unpainted ig
Yeah
and 3mm?
And 3mm
Not even that bad
Also 1 month waiting time
Cuz I'm not paying 150€ more to have it within a week lol
Its not "that expensive" but it's more then double what my boss asked xd
@naive lynx do you have a dxf for the braces for the rails?
Two of these
The holes are slightly undersized so you can tap them
ideally the same stainless steel alloy as the rails
mine are 3mm mild steel from sendcutsend
That used X-plus treating you well?
but yes, ideally same alloy as the rails
Used?
I assumed that you bought it used since I had sent you the details on how to buy one used from Qidi a few weeks back
You had asked me since I mentioned it in general chat so didn’t know if you ended up doing it or not
ahh, nah i bought it new ^^
Tried that too, they told me theres no used machines in the warehouse for Germany😭. Or do you have a different method than asking Leily?😁
I remember their stock in Europe is few to none unfortunately. Only buddies I have that have managed to get them are in US since they didn’t have stock in Europe. It may be a situation with Amazon that maybe Amazon in Europe doesn’t carry them, cause mine was shipped from an Amazon facility in my state.
Maybe something like that but it’s anybody’s guess
I’d say you could try a forwarding company if it would still be financially worthwhile to buy one in US and have it shipped to you from a international forwarder
I am set for now with my project but it would probably be cheaper new still
Wish I could afford to build a printer
Know another person who got a xplus3 for 200€
yes they told me that they had this option
the 300€ max
Buddy got a free x-plus cause they told him it was closed box but the box got damaged. It was $260 instead of the $200 for used but arrived with a broken power plug and the screen was knocked out of place so they sent him a used X-max for free
😅
So he got a x-max for effectively $60
Sick!
Right
no what happened?
The failed print made the front jump off xD
But it's only the 2 things that failed
Nahh
ah glad its not all ruined
XD that's the PC to blame, it's really viscous
But that's only stringing
It worked tho
thats why you where told by a few people to not do that
It's like 2 parts
It's alright lol
you just got lucky, if the parts would have disloged and collected other prints you would be in the situation where you have to figure out how to clean PC of a block
Yeah true ig
Let's just say I'm waiting for something before I continue printing parts
Something coming very soon
Bed?
What fans r u gonna use to cool those drivers
sunons 4020
what stepper drivers are you running that need this large fans?
Is it from ratrig themselves?
Will it work with a octopus v1.1?
?
Oh you weren’t talking about your vcore with that
Something that you can’t say
Vcore4 is out now, I can say whatever I want about it (and I always could, I wasn't in any beta or anything)
But that other printer is a k3 that you’re building?
I am building a k3 yes
Cool very expensive but sick
Yep, very expensive lol
Hopefully worth it
5160 and 2209
from what manufacturer?
btt
the watterotte 2209 are fine passively
the 5160 dont even need a heatsink, just some airflow
yea sounds like BTT
Oh interesting, no heatsink on watterotte 5160?
yea
they also say that on the shop page
like the format doesnt allow for enough power to be drawn to generate enough heat to be a issue.
the overall design is not bad and quite efficent
the drivers are limited by the pinheaders in powerdraw
I have an Arctic P8 wafting a light breeze over the drivers
The Watterotts have no issue
Even when I was running 48V
No heatsink?
No heatsink
Speaking of heatsinks. The ssr's wont need one mounted to the din-rail I assume?
We should use heatsinks
But we don’t and use massively overrated SSRs
So it ends up being fine
Well thats a solution too🤷
oh shit, 2504 longbois are a thing now
Remaining stock comes unpacked but brand-new. This motor is the one you select when you want the absolute fastest printer but also need excellent heat resistance in an enclosed chamber, but also in dual shear with the long shaft! NEMA 17. 1.8° Step Angle. 200 Steps Per Revolution. 2.5 Amp 55N-cm Holding Torque. 48mm Bo
might have to get a set of those when i next order a chube
The watterotts definitely need a heatsink
They overheat at 48v extremely quickly
Even with only heatsinks
i mean i have 2 people saying otherwise so im going with that
2.4A rms
Aight then
also i wont be running 2.4A on 2004s
Yeah 2A i still reccomend heatsinking
The ldos on internal packages are known to fail from heat cycling
Its kinda the whole schtick with stepsticks being bad
They dont share ground with the board (no big thermal mass for heatsinking) so they thermal cycle and go crack
Esp 5160HV is already against trinamic’s spec
They dont, ran mine at 2.4A with no heatsink
No overheating issues, when there is some airflow
Get a lighter on that though and clean up them strings lol
yeah lol
Started to wire the breakout board
what toolboard r u using
K3rabiner
Why's it do crusty
Fuzzy skin 
Its PC, normal with that
Is that really normal for pc huh didnt know
Yeah it's shiny af and you can see everything
CnC Sherpa micro tho 
where r the files for itt
Mellow makes a CNC Sherpa micro
If that says anything 😂
You sure its already very cheap
50 usd with all gears and everything
i can get a gearset for ~15, motor for another 10, and cncing and materials for free
CAD btw
Ya sure you have the tooling to make such small parts?
yeah
our tormach has tiny bits and a few of our mentors work at cnc-related workspaces
plus we have toolchanger and like a shitton of drillbits and endmills
yeah
im getting my xy joints cnced next year
as well as motor mounts
me and a mentor r gonna work on redesigning it
are you planning on carbon filtration in the k3 or is that intended in the design?
ah just googled and its called rebreather if thats correct, basically nevermore but a little bit redesigned
Yeah putting in a Rebreather XL into it
I disagree
Doesnt have to look like that bad and droopy
Even that doesnt have to look droopy
Xl? On githuv or not
Its in the annex usermods repo
Uses different fans than the normal rebreather and is a bit larger
Beacon looks potentially too high up
also shouldnt be using shcs screws for it
I'm guessing the toolhead was for Dragon UHF without extender?
If so, that means the part cooling ducts are also too high
Oh is it?
Oh actually looking at it again, I think you're missing the printed Beacon spacer
Yeah that needs to be there to position the Beacon correctly
How does it mount?
use different screws too
And use the low profile screws that came with Beacon
Ahh yeah true
It slides between the two PCBs
I don't have any bhcs long enough 
This?
Yeah that profile
Ultra low profile I believe
Bhcs also work apparently
Can you point me to where you bought the ssr? I would search for it if discord would let me😅
Order the 10A ones, you'll still get the 40a
thanks 😄 I will need to sort out my stuff still but I keep it in mind
Sure..
Interesting hotend construction
What was this?
probably the "genuine" Gates idlers
Yeah the "genuine" gates idlers that really are powge ones
got the rest of the panels
I missed where you get these but from the screenshot I know where 
acm
Didn't see that
acm kinda sucks for higher chamber temps, check the max temp ratings for it
yeah ik, will be upgrading it over time
dont have the money rn to get full stainlesssteel enclosure etc
would have opted for just plain aluminium panels then instead of ACM
woudve been the same price as stainless
already looked at options
weird
Panels in general seem expensive or is that just my cheapskate ass expecting lower prices?🤔
Alu and Acryl always was expensive
acryl is cheap
also cheap to cut
PC is more expensive, also cant be lasercut reliable after 3mm thickness
debating if hard pvc foamboards (cheapest option I found apart from OSB) with 10 mm aluminized insulation would be sufficient. Says its rated for 56ºC iirc.
Cheapest is always cardboard also okish for a enclosure if you need to print something quickly
K3 with some insulation goes past that rating
Thought so
What about PIR?
so tidy
Is that for Pi power?
Yes
AWG 20
Shelly is in the network
I need to connect earth with the 5v. The coil is making weird noises when it just touches the din rail
And than loses connection
are the DIN rails not grounded?
They are
But the 5v is on the side of it cuz it's too small for the 5v psu
And it needs a proper connection
Yeah I will. I finished wireing the distribution board today
It's fun cuz ldo didn't post the wireing for the 20mm stepper so now it's either good or not xD
can easily test steppers with a multimeter
or just holding two wires together and see if the motor gets harder to turn
iirc it's probably red/blue and green/black
True
im 80% sure that the k3 will print sunday evening
Looking forward to it
Sub 5 minute benchy let's gooo!
No, I believe in your printer
Sub 3 minute benchy!
lol
You should totally stream it
building it?
Speed boat as your first print frfr
Ooh! Yes!
Print one!
It’s almost like your hobby is a thing that could easily perform this task
ik xD
buuuut
i cant print it now
cuz
like my only printer is the works ender 3
and thats priting the k3 parts
Oh right cause you returned the X-Plus lol
Big brain but also questionable brain at the same time lol @vague nacelle
was broken
so like
either hotend mosfet gave out or the cable broke but it refused to heatup anymore. and the front idlers were rattling
RIP
Well least you got some parts out of it before it crapped itself
And now it becomes a $200 printer for somebody else
K3 will deff Not Print on Sunday
Warped to hell and it's a 12h print
Fuck that
Ugh
aww
if the holes still somewhat line up with the motor, it's probably still usable
Yeah, 3 holes are
Will just reprint it on the k3
Last parts were printed
Hoping that DHL will deliver the package tomorrow from ali

Ehh fuck dhl
It won't be delivered today
Ugh
They could 100% deliver it today, Frankfurt is like 170km from me
But nah
Doesnt mean the delivery center is, possible that the truck heading there went already before your package arrived there
Panel time
ordered a tad too small rivets
Going to rivet them into the extrusions?
pop rivets or crush rivets?
pop
the easy ones, crush rivets if done right look just better
if done wrong they are annoying
Z axis should be fine, X and Y is more critical
Powgee works, until they explode
takes like a day in a K3
oof

They are definitely a pain to build
Any ideas for what this is?
looks like a panel corner
no idea, not sure if they changed the Z drive assembly a lot since R1.0
did you greased the rails before installation?
or do they have a working grease port?
ofc
niceee
Cant wait to see that jiggle😁
For such a compact printer the z drives are super massive
Ordered m8x50 dowels (bed) and m3.2x15 rivets for the door hoping of finishing it sometime next week
Btw @cursive meadow could you send me the stl for ur chamber heater mounts? Would SLS print it
with the fanduct?
M3x4x5mm?
for the fan yes
for attaching the mounting brackets to the fanduct it where M5 iirc
could be also M3 cant remember
some random one ive got, went with a short one
one file where wrong
i should sort that folder better at some point
@vague nacelle make sure to not use one ive deleted, where a older version that where not great
will probably work better than the 2 random Noctua 40mm ones ive got
also true
just make sure it clears the bed
also it can melt stuff in the path of the hot air
one reason why ive made it blow below the bed
yeah i imagine
so it wont melt a print from one side
blowing upwards would work, but people melted the dock for the probe that way (where also a chamber thermistor mounting point is)
ah yeah true, i need to figure out mounting for the chamber thermistor
yeah im not using the dock tho
well thats true
also if you run the purge bucket its still there
got mine SLS printed at princore where cheaper than JLC including shipping
holy fuc
well ive ordered it in 2 batches
jlc is 50$ incl shipping
where planing to print the fanduct out of PA12 myself first, but ran into soome issues and eventually just said fuck it and got it SLS printed
also possible that ive got a 10% off code or a sale when ive ordered, cant remember
also the price is fine by me, supports a local buisness
will that work? its 5mm to 5mm and 20mm in lenght. the ones in bom (28mm) are way to long
Should be fine if shafts have the same diameter and you align everything well
are you not selling your k3? @vague nacelle
Dunno
There's also these
Uh
Oh no you really don't want that
It is going to be overconstrained as fuck
Would a plum coupler be good?
Like spider?
Better than rigid
best choice I know of are NBK's XGT2-19C-5-5
Would this be good for a Z leadscrew coupler?
yeah, it is just like very expensive, I'd probably just use spider couplers for Z, they are 60$ per IIRC
Can you send me a link?
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221005152457/?HissuCode=XGT2-19C-5-5
or
https://www.ondrivesus.com/XGT-19C-5-5
(XGT2-19C-5-5) Cross claw couplings with elastomer moulding / hub clamping / claw ring: FKM, HNBR / body: aluminium / XGT2, XGL2, XGS2 / NBK from NABEYA BI-TECH ➤ Order in many variants in the MISUMI online shop ➤ Free CAD data ✓ Fast delivery ✓ Fair prices ✓ Select and configurate now.
they are used on THK linear actuators
Yeah but with the printed mounts they don't, or I mounted it wrong..
probably mounted it wrong
you did measure them yourself?
Wdym
the thickness of the coupler, you measured it yourself? or you are just going by what the listing was telling you?
The coupler is 28 in length
you also need it to be deeper in the stepper side
yours is not deep enough that's why
what are the couplers you have rn?
depending on the stepper you run you might want to look into metal stepper mounts
Ordered those
the 2004 are fine with the printed mounts
if you go to 48V you want the metal mounts
Got the other ones
the 2804 require the metal mounts
2504 depends on how hard you push it
getting them laser cut isn't too expensive so there is always that
Have the 2504
the ones for the coupler based design is usually bend
the longshaft design is stacked plates
bent? why?
to clear the coupler properly
possibility for error is much higher tho
Will those work?
oh the annex store sells metal ones for regular shaft, OOS rn but 39$ is not bad
I personally don't really like those, the ones you have rn with the black rubber should work better
this is how the ones for the coupler design looks like
thats for the longshaft
the picture is for the longshaft
oh yeah
but yea the standard one is the bend metal thing