#Qidi XPlus3 IDEX HT conversion
1 messages Β· Page 2 of 1
wait. why do I care where the bolt holes are on the printer
I can just drill more holes and mount things wherever i want
rough sketch of the idex gantry
gonna put the tensioner on the toolhead to make my life easier
I could also keep the stock tensioner 
switching to markforged
added up the running costs so far and im $670 down on this printer π
the little things add up quick
Neat
π
Mad lad
Bed is here
Looks preem
I love the juxtaposition of shredded brass and perfectly milled bed
i wonder how you're supposed to do berd ducts
people in the past got a bit of brass tube, crimped and soldered one end shut then bend it round to go around the nozzle and drilled some holes
I've seen ppl bolt the end shut
Mhmm
in your case it doesnt really matter tbh
Yeah. I got space in front
will work
would design the mounting for the tubes in a way that you can rotate them to fine tune the outlet angle
I plan to friction fit+grub screw
should work
I should also leave enough space for a nozzle wrench
did a hybrid duct ages ago that was just a friction fit. but it was for a machine that wont manage to go past 100mm/s
yea thats usually a aftertough for a lot of people
Honestly I probably won't go fast but it should actually be pretty speedy
would also print a jig for drilling the holes, free handing it can work but is annoying since its a round surface and a centerpunch might close the bore to much
Oh yeah. I might go do it on a drill press tbh
Seems like a pain
did it on a drillpress too but freehanded it
was not great
a jig that holds the tube in place with guide holes for the drill helps a lot
did used thin walled aluminium tube
But the tube comes pretty long so I'll probably try going at it with a cordless
I'm planning to use brass
3mm id 4mm od
ive got the tube for cheap so ive used it
brass will be fine too
Yellow brass (the one that cuts easily) can easily crack while bending, so be careful and anneal often
Scraping your bed when?
Stilts installed
Surely this isn't gonna be an issue
Wait. Now that I've got the stilts on it actually clears the heatsink
you happen to get more than one bed?
for the heater fan
@wraith bloom I can just parallel the two 24v 5a on the flexpower toget 24v 10a right?
no lol i was asking if you bought more than one bed plate so i could buy the second one lol
oh no. why would i do that
just buy direct from midwest steel supply
if you wanna high temp you have to at least have the bed and hotend for it
not bad at all
you gotta drill and tap it yourself tho
they come with the holes and stuff?
no
not with the holes tapped in the step
thats fine
ty ty
I dont think they have cast alu
just gonna put this here so I dont lose it
Don't have the crimps for it but probably good enough
Maybe I should creality all over it
Crimped jst ph onto a wire and heatshrinked on top
It holds on a lot better than DuPont
I'd need to read the datasheet
the picture above mine is from armchair and idk why they have pin 2 connected
so im just connecting pin 4 only
Ah, nice
oh yeah. the ssr says earth the mounting rail, and the psu chassis/shell is earthed, so it shouldnt be toooo bad to mount the relay onto the side of the psu right?
Does PSU chassis heat up?
it actually stays really cool
big fan blowing through it
but at that time I was only pulling ~300w
actually, this shouldnt be that far off either. 150 chamber, 160 hotends, 30 fan,
Then maybe
Could use headless bolts
Good idea
Oh its still inside the cartridges? You need a can opener?
I'm just gonna keep it in the box and pull from it out the front hole
To respool and dry
There is a way to do it, look up the datasheet of the flexpower, there are like 4 wires you need to plug in IIRC
@warm thunder Only one wire apparently
On mine I need to link 4 or 5 wires I think
pimp my fryer
the whole process was surprisingly painless
I even had an m10 tap that I didnt know about
π π gib file, many thanks?π
the cylinder looking thing is printed in vase mode
15g in total of filament
surprisingly light
okay bolt down bearing block add plate with bolted in cylinder to hold the spool?
yep
you might have to 3d builder your way aroud to get the holes to fit with your fryer basket
for bolting it down
you know me too well π
id also print a few sizes of the vase mode one. the closer it is to your spool inner diameter the better it is
and if you use the spool clamp, here's the tiny one
I'll see how much headroom I have and might add a threaded rod and conical clamp
one cool unintended feature. when you tighten the bolt on the top too much, it causes the nut to expand the print on the bottom, grabbing onto the bearing
this is nice bc the bearing now comes out with the spinning plate, so you can take the bearing out of the fryer for when you are annealing or regular drying
I'll hereby suggest the name "Master Blaster"
Also print a decorative turbine shroud
Looks like the same airfryer I am using for annealing
Just bigger, mine doesnt fit a spool
from the original 750rpm to 7000. at this point I will probably eliminate the berd air cooling for the time being
came free with my previous apartment. it's kinda bad and the door gets easily stuck when trying to put the basket in, but it is big and VERY quiet
almost like it was made for drying
I was about to buy one but then I found it in the basement I had no idea it was there
This
Its pretty quiet yes, does what I need it to do
you should take the coil to make a filament dryer lol
Already have a commercial drier, no need
The coil in mine doesnt look like that tho
Its round like this
first one seems a lot more stable but second one with loong bolt should also be not bad
@wraith bloom what do you think about using this stuff to stick the heater onto my bed and to bond some g14 to springsteel
it's not too expensive and a lot less messy than RTV
How hot are you planning to run it?
at least 180 and no more than 230
afaik 230 is what I want for PPSF but im not gonna go there if it makes things hard
Honestly, I don't know. 3M gives their silicone transfer tape 260C short term and only 90C long term
For 3M 91022 silicone transfer tape
im probably just gonna buy a thicker build plate and go with the RTV then
thanks btw π
Thanks for bringing to my attention that these exist 
Should I leave the mouse bites in or sand it down somehow
If it works why botherπ€· unless you don't like the looks of it of course
I dont hate it. ill leave it in
adds a certain charm 
looks fine
if you want to be pro about it add an edge rubber seal
less effort and looks nice
good idea
duct tape is close enough right? 
actually, ill be covering everything in alu tape anyways
Duct tape is always the solution
getting it from jlc?
Will the filament still be dry after 10 years
5
7
1
Wet
Lmao TL I literally found the drawing on ali
Whats up with the ball bearing looking thing on the side?
Likely a press fit plug, from how it was manufactured
And yes, balls are used because they're very easy to press fit into various diameters
Well, usually you'd plug one end, just make the hole blind
Makes more sense yes
but I didn't have a symbol ready
TI β β
AAAAAAAA
What did you do?
I accidentally clicked save when tuning pressure advance so my slicer got all fucked up
And wasted a lot of filament trying to troubleshoot
is the heat from the blower going to be a problem for the belts in the chamber?
Just to maintain temp youβre gonna be running max heater fan the whole time 
Now I just gotta find a way to control it. It starts spinning as soon as I plug it in for some reason, even when I have the fan turned off
Guess I need to high side switch this too πππ
Its also looks like a very effective finger chopper
that's where the cover comes in
But my fingers crave the blade
So you can funnel stuff into the blade, got it
well I guess im doing a complete gantry overhaul
Can the plastic handle the temps
I meant the clear plastic
ah yeah, i honestly dont think itll survive but mr sanchez already did this and he just put foil tape on it and it was fine
Huh, neat
this is sick
and the belts are also pulling on COM now too
22IDEX V.kevin
So the plug on these motors aren't rated to above 100c. Do I just solder fep or silicone wire to here or do y'all think the JST will be fine in 140c
considering PEEK Performance was fine at 147Β°C for extended times.....probs fine for a few prints?
but if you have it already open....
Gonna have a strain relief for the wire?
sure i can add that
but im definately gonna have to redo the wire on my leadshine with PVC insulation right?
Yep
You'll need to add it because solder barely holds at these temps
Oh boy. Guess I'm not using the leadshines
just strip it completeley and put glass fiber sleeves over it
That's problematic
hence the crossing out
guess there's only one thing left to do. watercool the wires
I could try using these funny mineba motors
Hard to see but the parts fit 
heyyyy Kevin
what chamber temps are you going for
and are the motors in the chamber
@radiant ether
I gotta show the guys in printsleo server this
Time to do unspeakable things π
Give them a shim or they might pinch your belts
that's screwed up
those need a 0.5mm shim inbetween the bearings
I know it needs shims. this was just for laughs
oh
I even have it modeled into the bearing stack in my CAD
whats the space in the part you left for these like?
9mm?
wdym?
like how big is the gap between the top of the printed part and the bottom?
i forgot to add the spacer lol
Id leave 1mm on each side and put 0.5mm washers on each side
so 8 + 1 + 1 + .5 + .5?
9+1+1=11
same number 
gonna be switching from beacon to klicky00 buckshot
what the hell do I do with the beacon now π
Put on a HDT test jig for distance measurement
hmmmmmmm
yes
hmmm I have ~10mm left at the back
I can put up some insulation to seperate the motors from chamber

accidentally did 30mm spacing instead of 31mm on the motor mount
how the hell did I even get the bolts on when doing the test fit π€
oooh i only put in one bolt π€£
Well, it was good enough for testing
Once this is done we just wait for the amazing plus4 IDEX HT
what size are these bearings?
f623
ty
I think im gonna do a purge bucket kinda thing with a silicone/ptfe wiper on the edge
something like this
It takes quite some space, cant run the purge bucket on my k3 because the mrw bed is slightly wider
Yeah, seems overly complex to me
its a bit of a system
it uses the magnets for the Quickdraw to lift the arm of the wiper towards the nozzle
probably to make sure it goesnt get hit during a print
