#Flashing Firmware SKR3

1 messages · Page 2 of 1

shy tinsel
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from the SKR3 example

austere kayak
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okay

shy tinsel
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and we will need the distances for motion + the probe info+ whatever else

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inc the motor configuraiton

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from the ender 5 example

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basically we need to combine it

austere kayak
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some copy paste shit

shy tinsel
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so we have the ender 5 example re writtenw twith the pins and shit fomr the SKR3 example

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yeap

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copy pasta from one 2 other

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to make ours

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the staring example for ENDER 5 go voer it

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and make sure it has the runout sensor and probe

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etc

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if not things will get more complicated

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but if it has all that already even better

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I will look for an actual profile ready to go

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as that will save time but also I did learn A LOT about myprinter doing it manually so

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this is worth a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDpeHyMkaJk

YouTube
Minimal 3DP
Creating a Klipper Profile for the BTT SKR 3 on my Ender 5 Plus

In this video, I will be sharing the Klipper profile I created for the SKR 3 running on a Creality Ender 5 Plus.

My GitHub: https://github.com/minimal3dp/klipper

References:

▶ Play video
austere kayak
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ill look over the ender 5 example

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there is no probe or runout sensor included sadly

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ill install the config for the ender 5 pro and see if the values match

shy tinsel
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We can probe steal his ender 5 plus if he shared it

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for 3ender 5 plus

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WE can fucking steal that

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and just change whatever theheck we need too

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saves us much time

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its minimal so its all in 1 configf

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I went over it

austere kayak
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can we continue this tomorrow. it is 4:25am my time

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ill install that config in the mean time. have everything ready for when we come back

shy tinsel
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Stepper motors ☑️
Drivers: ☑️
Probe : ☑️
Bed and Extruder: ☑️

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Z Tilt & Screw Tilt ☑️

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interesitng enough you should be able to wire your motors for Z titl

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Stock display check

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ok yeah we need to find anoter one

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the plus is very differnt

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has more motors etc

shy tinsel
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I will do my best to find a profile for you

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or at very least

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I will take the examples and make a semi finisehd SKR3 one for u

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so that way u dont have to do the mix and match thing we can just jump into testing

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u will run thru that check list before you even attempt to operate the printer 😛

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last thing u want is for something to go wrong and break shit

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its one thing to have to fix a small issue its a bad thing if motors try to move in opposite ways and bend shit

austere kayak
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this is the example conf for ender 5 stock

Screenshot_2024-02-15_043040.png
shy tinsel
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Yeah I am going to grap the examle config for ender 5 stock

austere kayak
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but this is for the ender 5 plus

Screenshot_2024-02-15_043050.png
shy tinsel
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and marry it wit the SKR3 generic config

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the plus is too different

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I mean it uses 2 more steppers

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for a start

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because it can auto tram thebed

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it has more motors

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wiring will be different

austere kayak
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ah

shy tinsel
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its more mess for us

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to work with

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easier if we just use base or pro

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same dimensions

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same setup

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minor differneces

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I have made mine from scratch so you are lucky

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U have someone who can write this for you and use two configs to do it

austere kayak
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well i really appreciate you working with me on this. i know i wasnt the nicest on our first interaction. been a long day

shy tinsel
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its fine

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you have done more than I expected

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a lot of people are not tech savvy

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and cant work out backend shit

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I just didnt wanna see u give up man

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the whole hobby

austere kayak
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ive been dabbling in this sort of stuff since i was 12

shy tinsel
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and now u get to try klipper out

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u ddint eeven know u could

austere kayak
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about time haha

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goodbye marlin

shy tinsel
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I had no iudea u had a pi

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I would have suggested that ages ago

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Fuck marlin lol

austere kayak
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it was hard getting my hands on that pi. during covid as well.

shy tinsel
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Marlin is has its job its not terrible but for tinkering in its a pain to keep flashing

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granted marlin code is less dodgy

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plenty will argue about what code is better

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ngl

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klipper is potentially faster fact

austere kayak
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i prefer customization over anything. thats why i loved using android

shy tinsel
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then u want klipper or reprap

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marlin is ok but its more about user use than endless fiddling

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I started with Marlin aswell

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i flashed custom marlin it worked but making my own did not always work

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I flashhed with pre made CUSTOM source with more options than stock marlin

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But my dream was klipper form day 1

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I set out with a $400 used printer

austere kayak
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it sucks that there are so many printer types, its tough finding updated configs for a specific printer

shy tinsel
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it was mess bro u should have seen it

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I had no FUKCING idea what I was doing

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I learn3ed this hobby from ground up

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using printer first after I tidied up some wiring

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to marlin then I went off and got a custom board

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I think to myself this will be some work not too bad

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BOY I was wrong

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3 months down the rabbit hole

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I finally powered it on and tried to test motors

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issues

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corrected it

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finally homed it

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took me 2 days to sort out a driver issue

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turned out I did not have the fucking drivers powered whole time

austere kayak
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if i were to upgrade all my motors to nema 17, will i need to recompile?

shy tinsel
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fuck no

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thats is what we did for klipper

austere kayak
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i was thinking about getting rid of my stock steppers

shy tinsel
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motors are a controlled by the function stepper

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all the info about your motor for that axis

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is like this

image.png
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See I split my configs up into components

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I can do same for you if u like

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will takeme 15min more effort

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Its just taking a bunch of shit from one config and putting into its own standaone file

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^ that is all my motors

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is really that simple

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you read the info about ur motor

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input th9e NEW data in here

austere kayak
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thank you, that would help a ton at understanding it a bit better

shy tinsel
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save and reboot

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and if all go well motor work

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some times u gotta change the dir pin

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the ! means reverse

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so if for exampl motor goes left and it should GO right

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u add or remove !

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to change the dir

austere kayak
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can you fry the steppers with the wrong pin number in software?

shy tinsel
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this is based on some motor wiring

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sometimes the input signal will need to be revesed

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for correct direction

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Wrong pin # wont do shit

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just means motor wont respond

austere kayak
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oh cool, so no real risk at this point

shy tinsel
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it will do noting

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voltage is all u want to worry about

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vltage and things like speed

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rotation distance is how many steps a motor turns

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u can expirment

austere kayak
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and i will

shy tinsel
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but there is a nuimber u need to work ok

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mircostepping is based on how good your board is able to keep up

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processing

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higher numbers = smoother steps

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less noise

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there is sicence around it but yeah

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u can do upt too 256 potentially

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it smooths out the motor inbetween steps

austere kayak
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can you make sick timelapses on prints with klipper?

shy tinsel
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posiont min an max well that easy

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that means the min max of the axis

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how far can it go before it says NO

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going more not allowed

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this is so u dont crash all over place

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u can find it tou easy tho

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like for X axis on mine

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I use the move command to move printer head ALL way to one side

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until it hits the end stop

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I not that down as a negative number

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this becomes the min

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I move it all way over to end until I hear it crashing into the side of ganatry

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I subtract say 5 from that number

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and thqats my max

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then u do same shit for bed

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u move nozzle around until u find how far u can go in each side

austere kayak
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yeah that sounds good when it starts screeming at you that there is no more rail to travel

shy tinsel
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and nozzle is still onbed

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etc

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thats what I mean by manual

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its not HARD per say but takes time

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and iterations to get spot on

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coz u will have to go and actually move the print head around

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getting all that shit

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then u need to find your probe offset yourself etc

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this is distance from probe in the X and Y to the nozzle tip

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you can do that easily ish to

austere kayak
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im sure it would be easier to diagnose the problems than wondering why the e stepper stops spinning mid print in marlin for whatever reason

shy tinsel
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u basically lower nozzle onto the bed man

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put some paper down mate

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mark the paper

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with a dot

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lower the nozzle onto the dot

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mark down the coordniates

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move print head and deploy the probe lower it onto the dot

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same deal mark th at down now u simply subtract the differnece

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between the probe corrdinates and the nozzle

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that is your offset

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if that makes sense

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you can use a cube or anything with a point u just want a small targer to align it onto

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for example if the X for my nozzle was 148 and nozzle was 135 I would do 148-135=13

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my prob X offset is -13

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anyway u prob wont have to calibrate it if using a stock printer setu

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I had to it all manual because I had a custom shroud and probe mount and everything lol

austere kayak
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No, but that’s useful for when I do eventually get a probe

shy tinsel
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yeah

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thats how you find out the distanced from nozzle to probe

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it is needed to calibratre the probe offset

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but that is how u do that

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now if um

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if your printer bed is hooked up with individual motors

austere kayak
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Im not in a good place to start buying things. This skr3 board really set me back. But I couldn’t do anything with my last board

shy tinsel
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if you have ytour gantry hooked up to individual drivers

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and motors

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u can auto square that

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with z tilt

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th at is using the probe over various area of bed to check your Left and right side of gantry

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and use math to auto lmake the gantry straight

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now its harder to setup with corexy coz more motion in place

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but on yours

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I think your gantry for Z is just two motors yeahj?

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or maybe it does nto move at all I dunno

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I have a cartesian printer

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so my gantry is two steppers and my bed does not move at all up or down

shy tinsel
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you can use the the GPIO pins on the pie and board if u wantred to run whole thing thru a ribbon cable lol

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you can basically use most free endstop ports for other devices

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they all provide 5-24v

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depends on the PSU and board jumpers

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Klipper is freedom

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I mean here are my TMC2209s

image.png
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U can turn stealthchop on or off
0 = off
999999 = always on
1 = on when idle and printer is not moving

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so its silent when just sitting there but you get the benifit of all your motor torque when its actually printing

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I just prefer mine to be silent

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run current can go up to I think 1.5 ish

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or 2.0

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depends on dirver

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thats how much power is going to your motor

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more power u can probably put more strain on it as in faster movement

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before it misses steps

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but it will run hotter

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u will need to add a fan over the TMC drivers blowing if u want to run current more than 1.2mv

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Mine have heatsinks aswell but no fan so I can't run them hotter atm

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They will thermally shutdown safely tho

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anyway man

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let me handle the config side of it I can do that for you

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I will just start you off with a married SKR3 config + ender 5 stock config example

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make any minor tweaks for sanity then 2moro u can go about testing and tweaking

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I will send you a zip file with the entire setup just drop the whole lot into your printer and you will need to change the MCU ID to that of what you got from earlier but then it should be ready to run thru klipper check list

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I will give you a video guide as well as its same one I used to first test my printer before trying to home it this video just is informative steps to check on your printer before fully sending motion commands to it

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The configs should not take me more than about 20min

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I have been messing around with configs for all of last 3 terms of 2023

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I don't mind helping, I like this kind of thing, plus I rather give someone a nice easier to work with setup then having it all thrown into printer.cfg and having to all commented and tidy

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If we run into issues and its likely we will they should be just checking your cabling vs the pins being used and checking if the pin needs a pullup or down or if the motor has to be revesed etc

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most of it should just work

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provided the board is all connected up to the pins the config is expecting

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it maybe true that where u pluged your axis might differ to the axis pinned in config but thats simple stuff to fix

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again we dont need to re compile or flash anything we ust change the connector port or change the pin in the config to suit

shadow cobaltBOT
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shy tinsel
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Progress

image.png
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Yeah Look I may have just basically wrote it all from scratch using an example I found for a SKR3 Mini 3.0

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I found that here https://print3d.world/how-to-install-klipper-on-ender-5-with-btt-skr-mini-e3-1-2-bmg-direct-drive-and-abl-probe/

Print3D.World
How to Install Klipper on Ender 5 with BTT SKR Mini E3 1.2, BMG Dir...

I decided even though I have plenty of processing power with my SKR boards that my nerdy self had to give Klipper a try. I was experiencing lots of print defects with Marlin, and I had heard the kinematics in Klipper were much better. I embarked on an all-day journey on my day off to … How to Install Klipper on Ender 5 with BTT SKR Mini E3 1.2, ...

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You will need probably calibrate the exruder rotation I made full configuration notes as I wrote all this so you should be able to easily find what you need for common settings and tuning

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I have yet to change all the pins but its 80% done from here.

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Oh yeah I include customised macro's and things that, we may get you just install KAMP aswell while were at it so yo uncomment a few lines and avoid worrying about some things.

shy tinsel
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Oh yeas we don't want to have to have to remember a whole bunch a common pins for the board now do we KEK

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Lets make them human readable

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WIP

shy tinsel
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Please double check your board wiring, for hotend heater and thermistor I will configure it for he0 and th0 🙂

shy tinsel
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Aight I spent about 2.5 hours on this but this looks to me close enough to baseline test with.

austere kayak
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Just woke up. Damn dude you went crazy on this. I can’t thank you enough

austere kayak
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Onto the pi

austere kayak
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okay, so i figured out the drivers issue. but theres no way i can figure out what this means

Screenshot_2024-02-15_142451.png
misty ivy
austere kayak
misty ivy
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in your heater_bed sction add

pid_kp: 0
pid_ki: 0
pid_kd: 0```
and add a todo list before printing to do a PID tune to set the values
austere kayak
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like this?

Screenshot_2024-02-15_160807.png
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i havent had to do this before

misty ivy
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use tab to move them over

austere kayak
misty ivy
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send how the whole [heater_bed] section looks

austere kayak
misty ivy
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thats not the [heater_bed] secion, should have the brackets and underscore with it

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should be in the printer.cfg if its setup normal

austere kayak
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ohhh

misty ivy
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you run a save_config after that? is there a section near the bottom about an autosave section

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if not you can take out the # from ther

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there*

austere kayak
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this was already on the saved config

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ill take the #s out

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ooh, were getting somewhere

image.png
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had to do the same for extruder pid

misty ivy
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you messed with the [mcu] yet?

austere kayak
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no i havent

misty ivy
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you ssh into the pi or have control of it elsewhere?

austere kayak
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usb-Klipper_stm32h723xx_22001B001651313238353730-if00

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found the correct usb id

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now im getting a new error

misty ivy
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try adding the comment # before all of those, leave the EXP ones alone

austere kayak
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im sorry, what is EXP?

misty ivy
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the part below thet

    EXP1_2=PB0,EXP1_4=PE8,EXP1_6=PE10,EXP1_8=PE12,EXP1_10=<5V>,
    
    EXP2_1=PA6,EXP2_3=PE7,EXP2_5=PB2,EXP2_7=PC4,EXP2_9=<GND>,
    EXP2_2=PA5,EXP2_4=PA4,EXP2_6=PA7,EXP2_8=<RESET>,EXP2_10=<NC>```
austere kayak
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oh okay

misty ivy
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we need these i think, not sure you want the rest of them

austere kayak
misty ivy
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whats all in the [mcu]?

austere kayak
misty ivy
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not sure why its erroring in mcu, but in the [probe] change pin to PC13, kinda guessing since it was that in the board_pins part

austere kayak
misty ivy
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ah, the commented out section from the board_pins had the pin names, but looks like they couldnt get referenced

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go through that block and find the pin, then replace it where the error happens

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ex x_uart is PD5

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not x_uart_pin in tmc2209 stepper_x

austere kayak
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so i uncommented them same issue as before

image.png image.png
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do i need to remove enable pin or the step pin on the sections?

misty ivy
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comment them out, and transfer the pin name/number to where it is being referenced, where its being used cant see into that file im guessing

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[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin = x_uart_pin

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to
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin = PD5

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then save and repeat until a new error

austere kayak
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alright. trying that now

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i cant find any mention of x_step_pin on printer.cfg

misty ivy
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[stepper_x]
step_pin = x_step_pin

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looks like its in stepper_motors.cfg

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the whole config got made into a few files somehow

austere kayak
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`#############################################################################################################

STEPPER MOTOR CONFIGURATION

#############################################################################################################

This file contains pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH SKR3

[stepper_x]
step_pin: x_step_pin
dir_pin: !x_dir_pin ; if move direction in wrong direction remove/add ! in front of pin
enable_pin: !x_enable_pin
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^x_endstop_pin ; Endstop pull-up use ^ for pull-down remove ^ in front of pin.
position_endstop: 235 ; Endstop Position
position_max: 235 ; Axis Move Maximum Position.
homing_speed: 100 ; Maxiumum Move Speed while Homing.

[stepper_y]
step_pin: y_step_pin
dir_pin: !y_dir_pin
enable_pin: !y_enable_pin
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^y_endstop_pin
position_endstop: 235
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 100

[stepper_z]
step_pin: z_step_pin
dir_pin: !z_dir_pin
enable_pin: !z_enable_pin
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 4
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
#position_endstop: 0
position_max: 300
position_min: -10 ; Minimum Z Axis Position

[extruder]
step_pin: e0_step_pin
dir_pin: !e0_dir_pin
enable_pin: !e0_enable_pin
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 7.710 # Manual Calibration may be required for optimal tuneing ESTEP/Rotation conversion needed.`

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what would be a valid pin name. change those the same as before?

misty ivy
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PD6, from that commented out section

austere kayak
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@shy tinsel compiled it for me with an ender 5 config he found

misty ivy
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now that sounds annoying, im better at toubleshooting than setting up from scratch

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ill be back later, gotta start my own project

austere kayak
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go ahead bro. thanks for the guidance

shy tinsel
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Yeah there will be some clear issues wr need to fix

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I didn't have access to printer etc

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Or able to test this condfig for typos

austere kayak
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ah okay

shy tinsel
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I basicaly whacked it out over avoid 3hrs

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To 4am lol

austere kayak
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im glad i was able to set it up without any extra guidance

shy tinsel
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Because I wasn't happy with making a shit one

austere kayak
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just need to change things

shy tinsel
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I see the issue

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Dome of pins dhare same pin bt accidentally

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It's huffing a huff about it

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I documented the thing pretty well at least lol and i gave you the pinout image

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So if u wanna change anything y don't have get lost trying

austere kayak
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someone on the klipper discord suggested not using aliases

shy tinsel
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I mean yesh they have there benefits and not

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You can strip a few of them out if u wanted too

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I'll double check these thing bow im uo

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Sorry i have not been up long yet

austere kayak
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is it there to quickly reference other configs for fast changing

shy tinsel
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I did incline the baseline config iirc

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I just did the layout very different

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Which may look odd but I've done it this way plenty of times

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The generic thing stuffs it all into 1 file and only thing we xare about is the printers actual motion mechanisms and limits along with the boards pinouts for the control board which I just got from the github and the included image file

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Of the board schematic

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I was afraid the aliases didn't work

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That wa my main concern

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I mean I can test and fix this on my machine

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I'll just have back up said machines configs first lol

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It's not screaming about anything major at least

shy tinsel
austere kayak
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oh okay

shy tinsel
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I have all my printers split up like this so that I can easily identify sections of the configuration and not have to scroll thru a huge ass printer.cfg full of everything

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plus it makes it modular you can commend in out stuff u need

austere kayak
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ah i see

shy tinsel
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Some variabeles NEED to be in printer.cfg others can be moved out for example boht my printers I have setup in this way

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and they all work

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There are some errors above I noticed that relate to possibly bad headers for the sections or names for the pins

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I can double check against my working configs

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since the large portion of the printer.cfg came from some random dude

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on reddity

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I dont know if it was even working but it appears to be all the motion and setup we needed

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for that model printer I just cut it up and moved things around

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90%$ of your errors are about the pins

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Now something fishy is going on there with the alieses I will need to actualy diagnose that

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until it shuts the fuck up I can do that on one of my printers and just sacrifice one of them for debugging this

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If the generic board file has alises well I can just use those tbh

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What I did was read the png file I sent along with the github

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But its not uncommon for alises to throw errors like this, it MAY be easier to just use the pin name directly

austere kayak
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hmmm

shy tinsel
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however my other printer uses alises like this and works

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I stole some if it lol

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thats why the alises are like that I didnt have to change the names for all the pins fully I just had to write the alises with correct pins for SKR3

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and add anything maybe needed later

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I never expected this to work the first time lol

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they never do unless they are official profiles made for a machine

shy tinsel
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probably a typo on my part

shy tinsel
# austere kayak

All of these are telling me its not reading the alises correctrly

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because the MCU talsk to the board the board replies back if a pin is available and it board says N O

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we dont have a pin called that, but the alieses have it, and a sudo name was given for that pin its just not using it why that is well yet to be seen

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because my other printer uses the SAME aliases names and it works just fine.

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again I won't know how this looks until I get it onto a printer

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It will defo throw errors if there are spacing errors in the boardpins.cfg

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it won't detect certain alises if they are not formatted correctly

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I did all this is VS code so I didn't have it on a printer to check for parsing issues that is my bad

shy tinsel
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Linux is case sensitive obviously I have the file name lower case and the folder is upper case my mistake

shy tinsel
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it can't parse the alises or some of them which making every alises name not work

shy tinsel
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PID is handled by klipper like Z offset once you run a PID tune and make your Z offset BOTH of those will all be commented out

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that u dont have to touch

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This a list of all the shit working printer will do

image.png
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that section is created automatically

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by the printer

austere kayak
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i had altered back to exactly what you sent me earlier. just a restart

shy tinsel
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However THE SECTIONS HAVE TO EXIST in the printer.cfg

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if they don't you may get a failed to save PID value or Z Offset will be thrown

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that is why they are there but their values are meaningless since whatever was defualt is going be commented out your machine when you actually calibrate them the 1st tmie

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@austere kayak So here is what I am going do, am going to config backup of my printer and I will fire this set into it and debug all those pesky problems until I have it load and shit

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however I know for fact its going to error on me as the pins are not what I have so best I can do is TRY to get around it by changing a couple pins temporarily

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to get past some things that the board WILL need to actually boot

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If the onyl errors I get is ADC out of range etc then it will prob work for u

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it should in theory error on parasing erros first

austere kayak
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if you guide me from there, i can try to change the pins to mine myself. it would be good to learn some

shy tinsel
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before throwing actual hardware faults at me

shy tinsel
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looking at that you will see what I have done

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also I used this

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if u scroll down

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They list all the pins in a semi spreadsheet way

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However I prefer looking at the board diagram

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but I did double check some things in the list ^

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All in all I knew we would maybe run into parsing issues since I could not verify if the tis config was going too actually load lol

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but its nothing we cant fix 90% of work is done at this point we just get klipper happy with it and load it

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then go from there

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YES we could have used the generic bigtechtree SKR3,cfg

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but it would not have been moudlar it would have been missing things for your printer we still would have had to go and do fair bit of it

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The only differnece is I split it up into speerate files for ease of use, so u cna just open the steppers file to adjust steppers instead of scroll a long ass file and find where u put that data tobegin with

austere kayak
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awesome

shy tinsel
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it was for readability mostyl

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and modularity

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the headers for things are same as that for the generic exmples

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that stuff does not change

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its just layout different

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I should actualy read it tho anyway

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as it will 100% clear up any pinning issues we have

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if any

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in case I mis understood the pins on the board

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Also on your end you need to DOUBLE triple check

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the board is cabled accordingly

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but thats another issue

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For example if u find something NOT to work first try rversing the pins

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if not then couble check the board i matching the config file

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and change whichever u more comfy with

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I had no way to know for exaple what TH or Heather port u used

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for what

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I just weent with HE0 as extruder heateer

austere kayak
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im pretty sure it was e0 and h0

shy tinsel
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yeah that is what I setup too

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logical

austere kayak
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it has two for a toolhead switcher

shy tinsel
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there are two yeah

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I did ad the pins for everything

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all the thmerisots

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and all fnas

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and all the heaters and extruders

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all of it has pins

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some are just not used

austere kayak
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if i wanted to use the other ones in the future it would be an easy config change

shy tinsel
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but they exist

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No need

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I alised them already

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as HE1

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and TH1

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etc

austere kayak
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ahh

shy tinsel
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they all are there in boardpins

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I added all your extra ports for things

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that I could visually find at timen

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that are common and maybe wnated like all your th and heating ports are in there

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RGB header is there

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I did not relly understand your prob situation I will have to double check

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generic example and what u did cable wise

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since BLtouches have 3 -4 pins

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Your borad oddly uses 2

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so I am not sure how they expect you to use a touch probe

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with a servo pin

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unless thats what the SERVO pin on board is for

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I did add that btw

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my board simply has a PROBE port with 5 pins

austere kayak
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yeah that is weird

shy tinsel
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for direct connecting the standard BL cables

austere kayak
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the axis stops also have 3 pins where the wires only have two pins

shy tinsel
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yea I expected that

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becuase Voltage is not needed for endstops

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but can be supplied

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since u can use un used endstops for other hardware

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since it relaly is just a restor pin, gnd and power

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they can be used for ANYTHING not just endstops

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that need VIN and a sensor wire

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just the phsyical endstops only need GND and the pullup sensor pin

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so 2 wires

austere kayak
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hmm

shy tinsel
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they its not uncommend to seem wired in a 3 pin connector only using 2 wires

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all mine are same I wired all mine myself but I added 3 pin connector as it would allow me to use the connector slot to lock the header in there secure

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I could hve just a dupont connector lol

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wiht 2 pins only

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Not unusual dont worry about it lol

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endstops dont make use of 5v pin

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they make use of Ground and the pullup pin

austere kayak
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pullup pin is the one in the middle or the opposite side?

shy tinsel
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pullup pin is the one with the ^ in front of it

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in your configs

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I documented it so you knew what to do if things did not behave

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Some things dont pullup but ah ytour sotck printer said it was a pullup so I made it a pullup lol

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basically you can use the endstop free headers for shit like a klacky probe

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that needs the 5v power or could use the 5v power

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its just a 5v power rail in the connector endstops dont use it but other hardware that MAY share the header slot will

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if you DM me I can stream working on the configs if u want

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possibly even voice chat if u need

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up to u

austere kayak
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just sent a dm