#Ender 3 s1 pro issues

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

rugged wagon
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New to the hobby and yeah. I have done three successful prints so far in orange PLA. I will post images below. Since then I have had multiple failed prints. From more complex prints I have tried (coin covers for a board game I play) and then to simple prints like a trolly token. I have changed the filament to a newly sealed black one and am now printing a benchy.

I have just factory reset the printer and levelled. I am a total newbie so I will outline how I levelled in case I’m doing it wrong.

Lowered Z to centre where it was dragging on a piece of paper, went corner to corner and altered the bed using the Spinny things so that they did the same, went back to centre and altered z again as the bed had dropped slightly and went round and redid them. I then pressed auto level on the touch screen.

This post is as much a log for me as it is a cry for help. Benchy is underway anyway. Will see what happens next

true sundialBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you're on the right track, but let's go through a few troubleshooting steps to help identify the cause of your failed prints. Here are some common issues and possible solutions:

  1. First layer adhesion: Ensure that your print bed is clean and free from any debris. Additionally, try using a thin layer of glue stick or hairspray on the print bed for better adhesion.

  2. Nozzle height: Make sure the nozzle is properly leveled. Some printers have a manual leveling process where you adjust the bed corners to make sure the nozzle is at the correct height.

  3. Print speed and temperature: Check if the print speed and temperature settings are appropriate for your new black filament. Different colors and brands may require adjustments for optimal printing.

  4. Filament quality: While your new black filament is sealed, make sure it hasn't absorbed moisture. Moisture can cause issues such as poor layer adhesion and inconsistent extrusion. Consider drying the filament using a de...

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
rugged wagon
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Successful prints^

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Groot^ (you can see his hand reaching for help)

IMG_9723.jpg
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Coin covers

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Changed filament and tried a board game box insert that was going really well but failed after about 5hours

IMG_9727.jpg
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Failure points:

upbeat elm
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You can tune up the printer using these.
If you have adhesion problems try washing the print surface with warm water and dish soap. Only touch it by the edges.
Also make sure you calibrate your z offset correctly and tune that in by printing a full layer and babystepping it in until perfect.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide
Welcome!

Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide

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Also is that wood filled filament? If so you need an abrasive resistant nozzle for that, otherwise it'll eat your brass nozzles

rugged wagon
rugged wagon
upbeat elm
rugged wagon
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I’ve been using IPA for cleaning, is this ok?

rugged wagon
upbeat elm
rugged wagon
upbeat elm
rugged wagon
upbeat elm
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Looking Good 👍

rugged wagon
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Trying a print that failed last time

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Things changed: bed cleaned, start and end gcode changed for one I found in a forum that says it’s better 🤷‍♂️ added skirts to print

upbeat elm
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Mind posting the start and end gcodes?

rugged wagon
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You mentioned the nozzles when printing with wood or other materials. Are there any good ones you’d recommend?

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; Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal Start GCode for Cura Slicer Software.
; By John Scott, 2023. https://gist.github.com/JohnScottUK/8acd76895716b3abda4fde270738daf3

G90; Use absolute positioning.

;M117 Warming up...
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Start heating bed.
G4 S30; Wait for 30 seconds for partial warmup.

;M117 Warming Nozzle...
M104 S150; Start pre-heating hotend without oozing filament.

;M117 Homing Axis...
G28; Home all axis to know where everything is.

; Bed Mesh - Use one of M420 or G29. Uncomment if/as required.
;M420 S1 Z10; Use saved bed mesh, fading out over 10 layers. Quicker and reduced machine wear.
; Alternative - Generate new bed mesh this print.
;M117 Awaiting Bed+Nozzle...
;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for bed temperature when creating new bed mesh.
;M109 S150; Wait for hotend pre-heat temperature to create new bed mesh with everything heated.
;M117 Generating Bed Mesh
;G29; Create new bed mesh for this print.

;M117 Ready Nozzle...
G1 Z2.0 F3000; Move Z Axis up to avoid bed.
G1 X2.0 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0; Move above purge-line start, so any hotend oozing is out the way.

;M117 Awaiting Bed+Nozzle...
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for bed temperature before printing.
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; Set and wait for hotend to reach temperature.

;M117 Purging Nozzle...
G92 E0; Reset extruder.
G1 X2.0 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15; Draw the first line.
G1 X2.3 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0; Move to side a little.
G1 X2.3 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30; Draw the second line. NB: 15+15=30 absolute E
G1 Z2.0 F3000; Move Z Axis up to avoid bed.

;M117 Printing...

Gist
Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal Start/Stop GCode for Creality/Cura Slicer So...

Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal Start/Stop GCode for Creality/Cura Slicer Software. - creality_ender3s1pro.cura.start.gcode

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; Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal End GCode for Cura Slicer Software.
; By John Scott, 2023. https://gist.github.com/JohnScottUK/8acd76895716b3abda4fde270738daf3

;M117 Printing Finished...
G91; Relative positioning.
G1 E-2 F2700; Retract extruder a little.
G1 Z0.2 F2400; Raise Z.
G1 X5 Y5 F3000; Wipe out.
G1 Z10; Raise Z more.

;M117 Presenting Print...
G90; Absolute positioning.
G1 X0 Y200; Present print.

;M117 Stopping...
M104 S0; Turn off hotend.
M140 S0; Turn off bed.
M107; Turn off fan.

M84 X Y E; Disable all steppers but Z.
;M117 Printing Complete

Gist
Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal Start/Stop GCode for Creality/Cura Slicer So...

Ender 3 S1 Pro Optimal Start/Stop GCode for Creality/Cura Slicer Software. - creality_ender3s1pro.cura.start.gcode

upbeat elm
upbeat elm
rugged wagon
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Sorry for slow replies. I don’t know what that is 😬

upbeat elm
# rugged wagon Sorry for slow replies. I don’t know what that is 😬

No problem. You have a bed leveling probe? CRTouch or BLTouch or anything like that?

I'm referring to this part of the start gcode:

;M117 Homing Axis...
G28; Home all axis to know where everything is

; Bed Mesh - Use one of M420 or G29. Uncomment if/as required.

;M420 S1 Z10; Use saved bed mesh, fading out over 10 layers. Quicker and reduced machine wear.

; Alternative - Generate new bed mesh this print.
;M117 Awaiting Bed+Nozzle...

;M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for bed temperature when creating new bed mesh.
;M109 S150; Wait for hotend pre-heat temperature to create new bed mesh with everything heated.

;M117 Generating Bed Mesh
;G29; Create new bed mesh for this print.

You have these lines unedited in your slicer start gcode?
Because with the ; in front of the lines, the lines get skipped and you don't generate or load a previously generated mesh.

rugged wagon
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What should I do?

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Latest print going well but it’s stringy

upbeat elm
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Probably retraction if the temperature is Okay

rugged wagon