k1 questions (only people with k1 real experiances please)

[tall flume]

Or hotend, there was two options

The original design extruder is defective.

It will fail, guaranteed.

So if he is stocking units with old extruders he needs to talk to Creality as they do ship them free to suppliers

[willow jackal]

ah ok

[tall flume]

But you, the customer, should not at any point be paying for a replacement extruder if you are buying a unit with the original defective design.

[limpid abyss]

I can confirm they will send you a new one. I had an older extruder and they sent me the newer one. There are some YouTube videos that will walk you through the process.

[tall flume]

Probably one of the easiest printers to replace an extruder on

[willow jackal]

I'm currently in the process of talking to creality per chat, he doesn't offer a free replacement

[tall flume]

You email them with your serial#

You haven't bought one yet so they won't ship it to you

The supplier needs to do that.

[willow jackal]

I have bought one, it's on its way right now

[tall flume]

Ohhh

[willow jackal]

should arrive in 2 days

[tall flume]

Then email them with the serial and a photo of the old style knob when you get it

It will work for about 100-200 hours before failing

But after that the posts spread out and it stops actually extruding

[willow jackal]

hmmm

will immediately mail them when I have it

[cunning bolt]

I got the K1 from Creality directly and they shipped the revision version exclusively correct?

First mistake being the purchase from the vendor

[tall flume]

That I have no idea on

[cunning bolt]

Is there a way to check?

[tall flume]

I just know that the couple shops in Canada I do know were being shipped replacement extruders to swap out before even selling the units

[cunning bolt]

I have had flawless prints so far so I had safely assumed I had the revisions already in.

[tall flume]

You just look at the extruder knob

[cunning bolt]

Do you have a picture reference by chance?

[tall flume]

Is it super shiny and chromelike?

[cunning bolt]

Like removing the case?

[tall flume]

No, the little knob to release the gear

[cunning bolt]

Fan shroud*

[tall flume]

On the extruder

[cunning bolt]

Oh I’ll have to check tn I’m working currently.

[tall flume]

Then when you are actually at your printer just look at the extruder release knob. If it's polished/chrome it's the old one

If it's more of a matte/nickel look it's the new one.

If it's the blue collet it's the Revision 3, if it's the black/white collet then it's Revision 4

I think the only changes between those two was the better coupler and a stiffer detent spring for the knob

[limpid abyss]

My buddy Dan got a new one last week and his came with the new extruder so he didn't have to worry about it but mine had the old one. Just emailed them and they had me provide a serial number and picture and they sent me a new one.

[willow jackal]

how long did it take for you to get it and to where?

[tall flume]

Yep, my understanding is that they've been very responsive. Just need to actually provide the serial # in an email as they're preventing people from just snagging up free extruders.

[limpid abyss]

Took a little over a week. I live in the US. Michigan to be exact. I figured the replacement would have shipped from China but it shipped from a warehouse in California

[willow jackal]

is creality3dparts .com reliable?

[limpid abyss]

I've never used them so I can't say.

[willow jackal]

is there a thread or note with known reliable 3D printer part suppliers websites somewhere in here?

I don't really trust those Amazon reviews 🙂

known to be having paid ones

[tall flume]

I get my stuff through Spool3D personally as they price it the same as Creality.

But Canadian so might not help you there

[somber forge]

Have any of you guys used a usb webcam on the k1?

[cunning bolt]

Is that possible?

I just asked for the Creality camera for christmas assuming I couldnt do that?

[late trail]

Anyone have any orca slicer profiles (k1 max) that they trust? are the stock files good enough? optimization is good but I just want to know what im using is "good enough"

• I am almost through with my first roll (creality hyper pla that came with printer)
• I usually use Pla + which i have plenty of creality brand rolls (bundle deal with printer)
• I purchased a generic Pla + 3Kg roll for slinging out multiple mandalorian helmets for some buddies back to back.

my experience: I under stand and custom build out all my slices in cura for my ender 3 S1 with never using orca slicer until hopefully now. Just looking for an opinion before I bother starting to use orca for my K1 max and possible s1 as well. moving up from s1 to k1 max was big for me so alot of the knowledge I have on speeds and temps and additional features are not quite up to standard with the speeds and settings the k1 max is capable of.

[somber forge]

It seems like it is

I haven’t figured it out

Yet

But I’m doing this in the time before I get the k1 cam cuz Amazon won’t deliver it till this weekend and having 2 instances of klipper running doesn’t work to well

[willow jackal]

So I have my K1 finally, set it up auto leveling all ok went through just fine but... having trouble feeding the filament into the feeder, cut it at an angle like advised

it feels like it is blocked

[willow jackal]

removed the bottom blue clampie thingy and now it can get through

first 3D print failed

doesn't look like any other video for the first layer, after it did that it was moving but nothing was coming out it looked like, what could be the issue?

[cunning bolt]

Is your blue clamp back on the Bowden tube?

[willow jackal]

the bottom one below the feeder?

[cunning bolt]

Also did you push the filament all the way to the nozzle

[cunning bolt]

The one you said you removed

[willow jackal]

no

[cunning bolt]

Put that on and run an extrude command quick and record the results and ping me in #✅｜help-quick-questions

[willow jackal]

how to run the extrude command?

[cunning bolt]

run it via the printer interface

[willow jackal]

fixed it, I forgot to unock the extruder when pushing in the filament

when I clicked extrude nothing came out so that was the clue

so cleaned the plate, clicked retract then pushed it trough correctly now it's giving a good first layer

[willow jackal]

so apparently I didn't but thought I did 🙂

[cunning bolt]

Yeah that’s what it sounded like

It’s a very long tube so you get stuck at the initial print head then you gotta get to the heated section.

[willow jackal]

yeah makes sense

will post a photo of the first Benchy 🙂

[willow jackal]

so first benchy failed due to filament entanglement which I blame myself for not checking, however, fixing that here's the result:

not bad for a 16 min benchy, almost no spiderwebbing as well

this is with default manufacturer settings

[cunning bolt]

Did anyone play around with retraction distance? I can’t remember if someone posted the values in here?

[cunning bolt]

Also Capricorn tubing upgrade? Is that suggested for a K1?

[tall flume]

Not an upgrade and if it were it would be for a Bowden drive printer

[limpid abyss]

https://github.com/Guilouz/Creality-K1-and-K1-Max/wiki/OrcaSlicer chamber fan and exhaust fan are working on this profile

[cunning bolt]

Yeah I realized after some googling

[willow jackal]

Using latest Orcaslicer with the K1 atm, can state it prints correctly (imported STL, slicing and printing with hyper PLA). Although it does give an error that it has floating regions but print came out correctly

comments note it to be a possible bug https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/594

[willow jackal]

can the K1 handle 1 Million+ vertices?

I need that amount because of the amount of detail, can't even subdivide or my 32 GB isn't enough

ah wrong question, it first needs to be able to compile into gcode by Orca

[willow jackal]

the answer is yes 🙂

[native mantle]

So I’m using mainsail and it failed to connect, i check my router and apparently the printers ip adress changed…

I use Starlink and recently had to restart it, but how does that make the ip adress change lol

The printer works with the new ip adress but that’s weird

[limpid abyss]

I've never messed with starlink but normally in a router you need to set a static IP on your device that you don't want the internal IP to change on. It's usually under DHCP settings.

[ancient minnow]

trying so hard to make this orca slicer work...every time i get strining
if i use creality print, i have 0 stringing ...
tried default orca K1 profile, tried the profile from github ... same sh*t

[willow jackal]

DHCP changes the IP address when the lease is expired for instance

also if there's another device in your LAN that already has that IP and is already switched on, so in order to resolve IP conflicts the router leases out a different IP within the same subnet range

[willow jackal]

you might want to post all the screenshots in here in one batch, also have you tried the compare presets button in Orca (it's right of Advanced)?

[ancient minnow]

yea 😦

[willow jackal]

can you export your default 0.4 mm generic PLA profile, I'm going to compare it to mine

[willow jackal]

how did you export it to json?

[ancient minnow]

file->export->export configs

[willow jackal]

says there are 0 configs exported

ok changed the nozzle temp in filament settings now it exports

@ancient minnow ```"filament_max_volumetric_speed": [
"12"

"from": "",
"full_fan_speed_layer": [
    "0"
"hot_plate_temp": [
    "60"
],

    "hot_plate_temp_initial_layer": [
    "60"
],

        "slow_down_layer_time": [
    "8"
],```

these are my settings that differentiated from your PLA.json

most match

[ancient minnow]

volumetric speed is 10 in creality print

[willow jackal]

it's 12 in mine (Orca)

[ancient minnow]

build plate temp is also 45 in creality print

[ancient minnow]

i know that ... had same, but i changed to match creality print....will test with 12, but i doubt it will change

[willow jackal]

@gilded breach

210/215 seems to be the sweetspot in this print

bend test made it fail 200-205

[gilded breach]

Its almost always a tradeoff between looks or stability

[ancient minnow]

"// KAMP purge is not using firmware retraction, it is recommended to configure it."
with fluidd

any idea how to make KAMP use firmware retraction ?

[tall flume]

You'd have to set up firmware retraction in general.

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#firmware_retraction

Has pros/cons, mostly pros imo but isn't compatible with wipe on retract which means it doesn't for my use case at least

[cunning bolt]

Wait you can just completely delete the Creality klipper firmware and replace it on this? I should do this

[tall flume]

Not afaik

There are some customizations to enable the two other MCUs that do toolhead and bed control

[cunning bolt]

Ohhhh I was just briefly skimming the recent posts and it sounded like a complete klipper install through KAMP

[limpid abyss]

this is only for the purge. if you look at the kemp github it states "If this is not found, KAMP will warn you, and use reasonable direct-drive extruder values to complete the purge."

info is way at the bottom of the github https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging

[willow jackal]

K1 steel nozzle set ordered 👍

[willow jackal]

based on expert advice because matte PLA is more abrasive

[tall flume]

Can't say I have noticed any realistic wear after ~2Kg or so of it.

[willow jackal]

depends on the filament, some filaments add more abrasive material to give it a matte finish

it was also a good reason for me to order the kit and play with different sizes

[limpid abyss]

i have a different hotend but i've been using a 0.6mm nozzle and ive been getting some really good prints with it.

[cunning bolt]

I have my 0.6mm nozzles enroute . Hardened steel aswell.

[willow jackal]

have you noticed a decrease in your printing time?

[limpid abyss]

yes. i usually do 3 walls with most prints with a .4 nozzle. i can get the same thickness with only 2 walls on a .6. i mostly do functional prints if you are doing anything with details like minis or toys swapping back the the .4 might be better you do lose a little detail quality with the .6 but its not a lot.

[lavish mauve]

@tall flume can i dm you bout k1 stuff? ,im gonna be buying one and want to check if its the revised version

@somber forge meant to say that to you lol

[somber forge]

No just ask in here

[grizzled hawk]

Is it just me or when you turn off your printer and back on it deletes your mesh

And also needing to recalibrate fully everytime for 6-7 mins

[ancient minnow]

hey guys, i just upgraded to Micro Swiss hotend

my questions is : how often do we change the nozzle for this hotend? cuz i see this nozzles are expensive

or can i use normal nozzles with this hotend?

[tall flume]

When you notice print issues, basically

[ancient minnow]

and can i use normal nozzles after? i noticed the nozzle that came with the Micro swiss hotend had some metal inside

[tall flume]

No, you must use FlowTech nozzles with it.

[ancient minnow]

fuck... can't find those on aliexpress / europe ...

bringing the microswiss hotend was kinda expensive from USA to EU

[tall flume]

You would have to get them direct or find a supplier

[ancient minnow]

i hope they last longer since they cost so much

[tall flume]

Yeah, $90US is a bit steep

We are planning to get them for the cold swapping ability

That metal portion is the heatbreak throat at the top, meaning you can swap nozzles without heating.

[ancient minnow]

prints pretty good with it, nothing to complain. installation was easy (apart from removing the previous hotend plastic parts from the board )

if i knew i have to replace with 90$ nozzles, probably wouldn't have bought it in the first place

is this hard to repair? just in case i'll ever need the old one

[gilded breach]

Soldering or crimping

With the right tools and one minute, easy

Preferably crimping

[tall flume]

MIght be difficult but there's a bit of extra length on those so can probably crimp a new terminal on

[gilded breach]

Where did you get that number? 90$? I missed that

For me it would be 16€ plus 13€ shipping in the EU

So 16€ for the nozzle

[ancient minnow]

yea, my bad, its same price as for you ... i was thinking about the nozzle, but i wrote the hotend price instead ...

for me it would be around 16$ + 13$ shipping + 19% of 16$ taxes+ some other taxes

so i hope i can find some on aliexpress soon

[gilded breach]

Ah okay, got worried for a second 😅

[gilded breach]

Give the usual suspects 3 weeks or so

[somber forge]

i just got my k1 camera

any ideas on how to add it to the mainsail interface

[tall flume]

Settings > Webcam (at the bottom) > Add Camera > http://[IP]:4408/webcam/?action=stream

[somber forge]

it doesnt work for me on the mainhome page

but when i go to the ip it works

huh

[somber forge]

is there a way to do the time lapse where it moves the nozzle to the same spot every time (the corner) after every layer

on creality slicer

ive just been hearing a bunch of issues with orca and creality slicer is nice and easy

[grizzled hawk]

Hearing or having?

[tall flume]

I haven't touched Creality Slicer personally, been using Orca exclusively. Any particular issues?

[grizzled hawk]

My printer all of a sudden randomly is now during calibration(before printing) hitting the edges of the encsloure, k1 klipperized

[limpid abyss]

the thermal break is built into the nozzle. helps with leaks and you can also do cold nozzle changes because of the design. anyway the nozzles should last a long time they are alloyed metals and only brass plated so they will last a long time

[limpid abyss]

kemp deletes and does a new mesh before every print. it does this because it only meshes in the area it needs to print in. making a tighter mesh area.

[grizzled hawk]

ah

[limpid abyss]

if you used the install helper make sure you follow the direction on the github. there are some youtube videos floating around and the info is outdated. just follow the wiki. https://github.com/Guilouz/Creality-K1-and-K1-Max/wiki/Use-KAMP

[grizzled hawk]

I followed the wiki, I’m just resetting my printer

And redoing klipper maybe

Is there a way to use Mobileraker without klipper?

[limpid abyss]

not as far as i know. it needs fuidd, mainsail, or octoprint to run and those need klipper. the printer technically already runs on klipper. it's just a creality locked down version of it with lots of features missing.

[grizzled hawk]

Ah rip, my printer was printing kinda decentish without klipper

[limpid abyss]

if you are happy with the stock printer there is no need to add new firmware. at the end of the day it's just chasing perfection. if you are happy with the way it is there's no need to change anything.

[grizzled hawk]

True lol, Oh also when my printer arrived my clip that holds the tube in place the top part broke off

should i just ducktape it on?

Rn in callibration it bangs against the enclosure

making annoying sounds

[limpid abyss]

Are you talking about the little blue clip?

[grizzled hawk]

no

the part where it goes into the printer

from outside

its a black piece

holds the wire aswell as the tube

[limpid abyss]

The cable chain? You can just print a new one. There are a lot of designs on thingiverse

[grizzled hawk]

you;re getting close, the thing that holds teh cable chain

look where the cable is, and, the start of the cable chain

the top part of that broke off

[limpid abyss]

I'll check it out. I'll be home in about 20 minutes. Had to run to the store before it closes

[somber forge]

Hearing

[somber forge]

Stringing mainly

[grizzled hawk]

oki ty

[limpid abyss]

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/650e8900e05737433829ea2f

i think its the chain link you need

[grizzled hawk]

Look at the other side of the cable chain

that side is fine

Im talking about the otherside

[limpid abyss]

the part that mounts to the back of the printer then the chain hooks to it?

[grizzled hawk]

Yea

That part

[limpid abyss]

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/6567fbc7867d4f47baf3752f?source=5&isFree=false

im not sure how well this will hold up but there is a drag chain delete project https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/6563be59867d4f47bae5ea2a?source=5&isFree=false

[grizzled hawk]

this one works ty

Also how do you recommend doing callibration for new filament?

I just got some PolyTerra Matte PLA

and its printing wonky

[somber forge]

temp tower

[grizzled hawk]

Printing that right now

[limpid abyss]

some people do a lot of testing but if its something new i just do temp tower, flow rate, then pressure advance.

[grizzled hawk]

oki

[limpid abyss]

for any tuning i ussually stick to ellis guide. there are others that work. this is just my prefered spot https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

[grizzled hawk]

Each side is different what should I do then?

[limpid abyss]

i never have good luck with the towers. i've always got good results with the pattern method. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/pattern_method.html

if you use orca that has a built in pattern method. just not as many options as ellis but it works.

[lavish mauve]

how do i make sure if the k1 im looking at is the revisioned model?

also would you recommend k1 or ender 5 s1?

[somber forge]

K1

[lavish mauve]

for long term usage

[ancient minnow]

anyone here using micro swiss hotend ? did u guys change retraction settings? i feel like i get more stringing with this hotend than stock one

[tall flume]

Check the extruder lock knob.

New versions have the brushed look. That's a Rev3 in the photo, Rev4 has a better coupler

[grizzled hawk]

Pattern method looked complicated, I used the creality slicer to do the tower

[limpid abyss]

this doesnt seem right. i would check or slicer settings and the printer.cfg to make sure there is not a pressure advance already set. in your printer.cfg under the extruder settings see if there is a pressure advance already set.

[grizzled hawk]

I resetted my printer yst, it’s using crealities default settings

[limpid abyss]

by default creality may have a pressure advance set in the printer.cfg. i'm not sure, i haven't looked at the default config in a while. if there is one it will be listed under the exstruder section.

[grizzled hawk]

Oki

[limpid abyss]

i found a default config online. creality does set a default pressure advance for their hyper pla. you can just comment their settings out. run the test and put in your own values. or keep them commented out and set it in the slicer. example:

max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0
max_extrude_cross_section: 80
step_pin: nozzle_mcu:PB1
dir_pin: nozzle_mcu:PB0
enable_pin: !nozzle_mcu:PB2
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 6.9
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: nozzle_mcu:PB7
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: nozzle_mcu:PA0
#pressure_advance: 0.04
#pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040
control: pid
pid_Kp: 25.013
pid_Ki: 2.566
pid_Kd: 60.966
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 320```

(pound)# will comment out a line

[grizzled hawk]

Ah will do tyvm

[limpid abyss]

once you have everything tuned you you can leave the pressure_advance_smooth_time at 0.040 that is the default setting. that is for how far ahead the printer looks. 0.040 = 40ms

[tall flume]

It's matte filament. I experience similar PA weirdness with it

I would go by the test and set it to basically 0 as it suggests - specifically for that matte filament.

[late trail]

@wide blaze

[wide blaze]

hi

[ancient minnow]

@tall flume did u recalibrate e-steps on K1 after upgrading to swiss hotend ?

i have under extrusion, and i don't know where to change e-steps settings

on my ender3v2 neo it was easy to play with it

[tall flume]

I don't have one and it wouldn't affect esteps

[ancient minnow]

this is terrible...after chaning the hotend, prints are so bad

[ancient minnow]

@limpid abyss did u change any settings after upgrading too swiss hotend ?

[limpid abyss]

sorry i know this is a little late. all i did was a PID hotend tune. takes like 5 minutes.

[ancient minnow]

thanks

[grizzled hawk]

Do i need to do anything apart from recallibrating bedmesh after installing a textured pei build plate?

[tall flume]

Nope, shouldn't need to change anything.

[limpid abyss]

i keep looking at the POE textured build plates with the patterns in them. just haven't picked one yet.

[somber forge]

I do kinda wonder if I cld just use my pei sheet from my e3 pro on my k1

Besides the nozzle cleaning area they r the same

[ancient minnow]

do you guys know where i can change the coordinates of the first line purge the printer does before print (even before bed mesh)

[gilded breach]

Start gcode or start print macro depending on how the hell creality mutilated Klipper

Or use KAMP

[ancient minnow]

i'm using KAMP, i have the line purge, but before it starts to calibrate bed, it does another small line purge. i would like to change coordinates of that small line purge, because i want to use a PEI sheet bed that has no "slots" as the K1

so i can't place it properly, where it does the first line purge

[gilded breach]

When it does both its probably in the slicer start gcode or they implemented it somewhere completely different 🙈

[limpid abyss]

i also tried finding the nozzle wipe settings. i wanted to change the location and add a wire brush for the wipe. i seen it being referred to in the the start print macro in macro cfg but the location settings are not there. some of the start up configs are in python and i think this is where it is located. im going to do more digging around but i was not able to find it in the normal cfg files.

[limpid abyss]

its referred to in the start print macro as CX_NOZZLE_CLEAR. there is also CX_Draw_one_Line in a few spots to. just need to find out where these are pointing to.

[ancient minnow]

please tell me if u find where it is

[lavish mauve]

i think mine is shiny

the seller said it was the revised edition but not the latest revision

it also ahs the black sock

it did the speed test print fine

but wihle calibratring it hit the rightr corrner near the door, each time it calibrated including the initial self check wehn you first open the printer out of box..

[lavish mauve]

is there like a wya to check by the serial number etc?

[limpid abyss]

you can just post a picture someone here will let you know.

[cunning bolt]

Anyone have issues with error code 2507 for nozzle not heating at all? If so was it wires or did you damage the heating element

[limpid abyss]

i haven't had this issue myself but everything i can find says its a hotend issue

i did find this but can't vouch if it works or not https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iw4gE0VkDPo

[cunning bolt]

Yeah I think I damaged the ceramic heating element

Because it wont even start heating

[ancient minnow]

i think i had that error, restarted printed, all good

or i did factory reset, and it was all good

[cunning bolt]

That’s weird. I just changed my nozzle and it threw that error but I did some other damage so I’m getting a new extruder assembly

[limpid abyss]

i have some info to dump might take a min. i have not found the solution yet but i think im close. i have hit a small dead end thats why im dumping my findings so maybe others can help. just give me a min to get this typed out.

[lavish mauve]

Does this look brushed? İt does to me

But for some reason my hotend sock is black, not red

And

[tall flume]

That's a rev3

[limpid abyss]

here is my current findings for trying to change the wipe location. creality went kind of bonkers on this. i've followed this path through a lot of files. i don't pretend to be any professional at any of this so if im looking at something wrong just let me know. i found the start of this in the gcode_macro.cfg

variable_prepare: 0
gcode:
  WAIT_TEMP_END
  CLEAR_PAUSE
  {% set g28_extruder_temp = printer.custom_macro.g28_ext_temp %}
  {% set bed_temp = printer.custom_macro.default_bed_temp %}
  {% set extruder_temp = printer.custom_macro.default_extruder_temp %}

  {% if 'BED_TEMP' in params|upper and (params.BED_TEMP|float) %}
    {% set bed_temp = params.BED_TEMP %}
  {% endif %}

  {% if 'EXTRUDER_TEMP' in params|upper and (params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|float) %}
    {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP %}
  {% endif %}

  {% if printer['gcode_macro START_PRINT'].prepare|int == 0 %}
    {action_respond_info("not prepare.\n")}
    PRINT_PREPARE_CLEAR
    CX_ROUGH_G28 EXTRUDER_TEMP={extruder_temp} BED_TEMP={bed_temp}
    CX_NOZZLE_CLEAR
    ACCURATE_G28
    CX_PRINT_LEVELING_CALIBRATION
  {% else %}
    PRINT_PREPARE_CLEAR
  {% endif %}

  CX_PRINT_DRAW_ONE_LINE

i beleve the CX_NOZZLE_CLEAR line is what is needed.

i could not find that in any other cfg file. so i logged in as root and started looking deeper into the file system. then i found a file in python called custom_macro.py that had this:

then it calls for nozzle_clear. this is where i started running into issues. i found pointer and i believe the info needed is in a file called prtouch_v2_compile.c but this is written in C and its compiled. C is really not my thing. my coding stops at python and java. there might be a repository for this on the creality github but i have not been able to find it yet. their github is not organized at all and their repository is huge. @ancient minnow

this github contains the whole k1 file system. so it makes it easier to look through files https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/K1_Series_Klipper/tree/2a4ee4128299dc38f5dd49edec3b63f6b440e0a3

[lavish mauve]

How many revs there has been? İs rev 3 with like brushed knob and black silicone?

As in am I in the clear for the revision I have

[tall flume]

Rev3 extruder, I am not sure how many revisions the actual units have gone through

Black silicone hotends are what I have, the only issues with them is that the thermistor isn't super reliable. The red sock ones have a crimped barrel thermistor that is less prone to failing.

[lavish mauve]

Hmm, but thermistors are easy to change, no?

[lavish mauve]

İf that's the only issue then won't RMA it, they will still give me 2 years of service and fixes for free, where I will just ask for a better thermistor/pay for part and grt free install

Also, do you know what would be the max/optimals speed for normal pla?

I think only hyper pla is ok for high speeds as in 450-600mm/s

[tall flume]

For my quality stuff I generally run 80-150, but you can definitely print normal PLAs at 200-300 and hyper at like 400 given you're willing to sacrifice wall quality (stuff that is mostly functional and less aesthetic)

[lavish mauve]

Yeah, I like the hexagonal grid wall thing, and since that one si mostly straight lines on a grid, I will try that on şile 500, it wknt have any details to lose snyways

[limpid abyss]

i believe there are 4 extruders right now. rev3 was the black sock with the blue clip and the small hole in the top right face. there is a rev4 but these are very new. white sock, no blue clip, hole in front upper right corner. the white sock on theses ones are very stiff so the blue clip got removed. i think the tougher sock spring is the only difference between v3 and v4

[lavish mauve]

This, the black part on wall seems like it would be easy to print at high speeds with no issues

[lavish mauve]

So you think mine is actually okay? I thought I somehow got a non revised version

As for example these are my knobs

Looks brushed to me

Also seems to have the plastic insert next to the knob

[tall flume]

Those are definitely the revised version.

I have an old version knob somewhere to compare... one sec.

[lavish mauve]

Thank you!

Then it seems I'm in the clrsr

Now to print the riser for the ceiling because THE FUCKING GANTRYCABLE ORGANİSER THİNG

Also

İs this normal while calibrating?

I heard k1 uses snsorless homing to it actually needs to hit

But people seem to decrease homing speed form 36 to 32 to make it not as harsh

[limpid abyss]

derra is correct you do have a revised version. if you really want to double check the area in red just pops off. then where the green spot is there should be a really small hole there under that cover

[tall flume]

@lavish mauve This is a photo of the old extruder portion.

Also yes it should kinda' tap the front right when it's homing, I don't have audio enabled but figure that's what you're referring to?

[lavish mauve]

Yeah when I see both, I can see the difference

İt was just that the brushed one was also shiny-ish by itself lol

[lavish mauve]

Yes, but it taps kinda hard

Like hits, not taps

Not like shakşmg the door etc

[tall flume]

Yep, mine do too

[lavish mauve]

But still

Oh okay then

Then I also recommend you to reduce homing speed from 36 to 32

Same function, less violent operstion

[tall flume]

I haven't touched any of that personally

But you definitely could if you want

[lavish mauve]

How often do you calibrate befor prints btw?

I used to have an ender 3 pro like I didn't use for 2 years so I don't know how often it needs

[limpid abyss]

im at work now but im pretty sure those settings are in the sensorless.cfg ive been doing nothing but looking at files for this thing tracking down the hotend clean location settings

[lavish mauve]

They might be on the settings itself of the printer

Because people were suggesting it very nonchalantly like it was just a setting to change like heat

[tall flume]

I have KAMP so it does a mesh for every print

As for shaper stuff that should not be changing often, if at all

[lavish mauve]

I saw a setting on printing page wher I can set it to calibrate before the print right before I commit the printing

What is kamp?

Oh it's klipper

[tall flume]

The machine already runs Klipper

KAMP is just a macro that sets up a mesh based on the actual size of the print and makes a new one just in the printed area

Klipper Adaptive Mesh Protocol

[lavish mauve]

Sounds p cool

I remember kn older times with bl touch

Most people would install bl touch and add the code to start of gcode

But forget to add the part where it would save the new crested mesh and use it

So they didn't use it at all, it made the mesh but not save it to memory lol

[limpid abyss]

@ancient minnow dont get to excited but i may have found it. need to test when i get home

    def cmd_CX_PRINT_DRAW_ONE_LINE(self, gcmd):
        self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M83')
        self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X10 Y10 Z2 F6000')
        self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z0.1 F600')
        self.pheaters = self.printer.lookup_object('heaters')
        self.heater_hot = self.printer.lookup_object('extruder').heater
        self.gcode.respond_info("can_break_flag = %d" % (self.pheaters.can_break_flag))
        self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M104 S%d' % (self.extruder_temp))
        self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M140 S%d' % (self.bed_temp))
        self.pheaters.set_temperature(self.heater_hot, self.extruder_temp, True)
        self.gcode.respond_info("can_break_flag = %d" % (self.pheaters.can_break_flag))
        while self.pheaters.can_break_flag == 1:
            time.sleep(1)
        self.gcode.respond_info("can_break_flag = %d" % (self.pheaters.can_break_flag))
        if self.pheaters.can_break_flag == 3:
            self.pheaters.can_break_flag = 0
            self.gcode.respond_info("can_break_flag is 3")
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G21')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 F2400 E-0.5')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY=5')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M204 S12000')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G21')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL_TO_DECEL=6000')
            # self.gcode.run_script_from_command('SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.04')
            # self.gcode.run_script_from_command('SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE SMOOTH_TIME=0.04')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M220 S100')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M221 S100')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z2.0 F1200')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F6000.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X0.1 Y180.0 Z0.3 F3000.0 E10.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X0.4 Y180.0 Z0.3 F3000.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X0.4 Y20.0 Z0.3 F3000.0 E10.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Y10.0 F3000.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z2.0 F600.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z0.3 F600.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z2.0 F600.0')
            # self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 X0.4 Y10.0 Z0.3 F6000.0')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('M82')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G92 E0')
            # self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 Z2.0 F600')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G1 F12000')
            self.gcode.run_script_from_command('G21')```

[gilded breach]

They still do that😅

[lavish mauve]

:P thats why "tips" in any hoppy always işncrease in numbers but never get old

when you get used/familiar to something its easy to forget that people new to it doont know the "simple" parts

[cunning bolt]

anyone who has dealt with creality replacing parts under warranty for their K1 how long did it take for a shipping notification to appear

It’s been 3 days and nothing has been sent to me letting know it’s even been started to be worked on.

Would be nice to have my printer back…

[tall flume]

3 days including the weekend?

[cunning bolt]

Yes

[tall flume]

Then it hasn't even been one business day

Weekends won't count

I'd expect a week probably

[limpid abyss]

i had an old extruder with mine. after i contacted customer service it took about 3 weeks to get my new part.

[limpid abyss]

spent some time manually tramming the bed. think this is as close as im going to get it with a 300 x 300 bed

[somber forge]

What did u ask them?

To get them to send it

[tall flume]

You email them with photos of the original extruder and your serial#\receipt and ask for a replacement

[somber forge]

Ok

I’ll do that when I get home tn then

[tribal mortar]

I want to print toxic filament and I’m currently printing the activated carbon filter. Is the door gap an issue? How often do i have to change the activated carbon? How do i know it’s working right?

[gilded breach]

Please define "toxic" 😅

You want a recirculating carbon filter, not a filtered exhaust.

[somber forge]

What u want is an exhaust that puts the air outsidr

[gilded breach]

Or that

[limpid abyss]

i did what @tall flume said. it was all through email. i told them i had one of the original extruders and i was having feeding issues and i was looking for one of the new replacements. they had me take a picture of the extruder and the serial number on the unit and 3 weeks later a new one showed up.

if you want a carbon filter that recirculates the nevermore works very well. i have one sitting in the bottom of my k1. same thing i use for my voron. https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro

if you use a filter that recirculates just make sure you use good carbon. they cheap stuff will cause metal parts in your printer to oxidize.

[tribal mortar]

I talked with my dad and he wants only direct exhaust, but i still need to seal the door and such. Any tips?

[limpid abyss]

https://www.printables.com/model/551917-creality-k1-door-cover

but you dont have to worry about it to much. if you are using an exhaust the static pressure should be enough to stop most leaks

[gilded breach]

Duct tape.... what material do you want to print?

[limpid abyss]

^^^ valid point. if you are only going to stick to pla. there is no point as you need to keep the lid off to print pla.

[gilded breach]

Still no word on what they meant with "toxic filament". Can be everything from ABS to fluorinated cyberplastic🤷

[tribal mortar]

I wanna try a lot of different things, but it includes abs, pc, nylon and carbon fiber pla

[gilded breach]

Have lots of fun and patience 👍

And a good way of drying the filament and keeping it that way

[tight glade]

anyone know why my k1 aint extruding? like i’ve pushed the filiment in and it would come out but it won’t purge or anything

[grizzled hawk]

lock

[tight glade]

the locks fine i think

filiment came out but it just wont extrude

to print

although i’ll try that tommrow

[tight glade]

just turned it on and the screens black

what the fuck did i do i’ve had it a day

[gilded breach]

If you work through the screen issue, have you tried taking the bowden tube from the Cable chain?

[tight glade]

sending the printer back, seems like we had a faulty one (possibly)

[tight glade]

want to get myself a pei bed will this fit?

[somber forge]

Anyone know if you update the printer will you need to re root it and such?

[tall flume]

The newest updates include root functionality right in the menus

Just go to settings then enable root, have to wait 30sec to press yes

[somber forge]

but will i have to reinstall everything?

[tall flume]

I had to redo some of the printer.cfg stuff I believe

[somber forge]

ah ok so ill just back everything up

[tall flume]

But yeah basically

[somber forge]

but i wont need to redo the k1 installer thing

[tall flume]

Not afaik

But since it's a third party thing it's possible

[somber forge]

thank you

[tall flume]

I haven't updated for exactly that reason haha

[somber forge]

ill update it

ok

[tall flume]

Newest K1 print

[tight glade]

just got my new k1 up and running, seems like we had recieved an old/returned one before

just trying to connect it to creality cloud

[tight glade]

that’s fucking dope

[tall flume]

Thanks lol

[tight glade]

how do you slice?

[tall flume]

I use OrcaSlicer with some custom profiles

[tight glade]

alright can you print from wirelessly?

trying to set up slicing

[tall flume]

Yep, I set it up with wireless printing but that requires adding Mainsail and such

Unless you use Creality Print

[tight glade]

how do i do that?

i’ve just got it working on my phone

uhhh so it’s in the wrong language

[gilded breach]

你好😊

[tall flume]

I recall mine being like that initially just have to swap it to English

[tight glade]

yeah i just found if i installed it from the website it went straight to english wierdly

[drifting hinge]

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[turbid blaze]

Anyone else having this issue with the bed level? It seems to be software related and I honestly don't know how to fix it. Should I just wait for the next update?

[gilded breach]

Look at #1190693789820539051 they explain some fixes for that. Good read actually

Also a tilted plate can't be fixed by software 🙈

[drifting hinge]

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[turbid blaze]

I am not sure what caused this damage, but I am feeling it was the print head/nozzle during the calibration before a print

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

ok

lets bring TS back

i got some questions

the webcam section is black

but when i go to the URL

it works fine

(dont mind me drying filament lol)

these are my settings

im planning to add my old USB webcam for a second cam from the outside

but thats a later thing

[tall flume]

Change those to the full url with the port and such

[somber forge]

didnt work

tried with and without http://

nvm

im just stupid

and put https

now it works

thanks sm

[tall flume]

[somber forge]

what would i do about a second cam for the outside

tho

a usb one

[tall flume]

I hadn't a clue unfortunately

[somber forge]

alr thanks anyway

ill try and figure that one out on my own

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

ok

more questions lol

tailscale?

im trying to install it

as mainsail doesnt like to work when portforwarded

and security

but i gotta figure out how to install it

[tall flume]

Oh god please don't port forward Mainsail

Haven't used tailscale but Octoeverywhere is available on the K1

[somber forge]

octoeverywhere never rlly worked for me

whats wrong w the portforwarding besides the security aspect

[tall flume]

Just that, the security aspect.

Mainsail isn't designed to be secure by any means

[somber forge]

yea fosho

dyk what varient of linux the k1 runs

or what its closest to

those are the options

[drifting hinge]

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[plain parrot]

hey, considering getting a k1. anything i should worry about or consider

[somber forge]

uh

try and get a the new revison

and when u get it i reco installing mainsail/fluidd

also has anyone gotten the timelapse to work with the mainsail thing

not the creality one

i uncommented the stuff in timelapse.cfg

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

its kinda crazy how big this thread got tho lol

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

uh

what do i send

for the new hotend and extruder

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

Bump

[drifting hinge]

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[somber forge]

bump

[drifting hinge]

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[turbid blaze]

After tons of levelling, I still can't seem to print anything from one corner to another. I would love to hear some solutions to fix this problem.

I am planning on getting springs and knobs to adjust each corner individually, although, I am unsure if it will actually fix the print bed issue. It looks pretty curvy.

[drifting hinge]

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[spare rapids]

Hey all, this thread has been my go to for help, so i am bumping. Can I solder this or attach with adhesive? I am worried i am screwed here. Tried to take off the heat sock and it was stuck on there hard. this came loose.

[drifting hinge]

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[plain parrot]

having some trouble with bed adhesion and layer shifting. im using a textured pei sheet

[gilded breach]

If this is the actual wire you might be able to reconnect it. It looks like its attached or held in place with an electrically conductive adhesive

Theres some kind of conductive silver paint available but no idea if thats able to withstand the heat and is safe to use.

[drifting hinge]

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[ancient minnow]

hi guys, today i did 1.3.3.5 update that Creality was forcing me to do, and i noticed that i lost the KAMP settings. do i need to root the printer again and install all those settings ?

[drifting hinge]

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[cunning bolt]

Has anyone done the cable chain delete? Curious how it went