#getting weirdstringing/layers on larger prints

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

worldly skiff
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Any idea why this is happening? The more of the model, the more it strings. Only change I did was position of the body, and including the rest of the body vs just the head and 2 spine bones

past oakBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you're experiencing issues with stringing in your 3D prints. Stringing occurs when melted filament oozes out of the nozzle and creates thin strands between different parts of the print.

There are several factors that can contribute to stringing, including temperature, retraction settings, and filament type. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

  1. Check your printing temperature: Lowering the temperature slightly can help reduce stringing. Experiment with decreasing the temperature in small increments until you find the sweet spot.
  2. Adjust retraction settings: Retraction is the process of pulling filament back into the nozzle during non-printing moves to prevent oozing. Increasing the retraction distance and speed in your slicer settings can help reduce stringing.
  3. Enable or adjust z-hop: Z-hop is a feature that lifts the nozzle slightly during travel moves, preventing it from dragging across the print. Enabling or increasing the z-hop height in y...
solar topaz
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been getting this too

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not sure why

tranquil heron
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I would echo the AI in suggesting a temperature decrease, but ive also just naturally had a lot of issues with color gradient silk filaments like this. They're usually finicky, definitely hit or miss. Is this a filament you're used to using?

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What're your temp settings currently?

worldly skiff
tranquil heron
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215 is HELLA high

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I dont think ive ever needed to go above 205, typically keep around 195-200. Id lower to 205 to start and see if that helps.

worldly skiff
worldly skiff
tranquil heron
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Im also not an expert in speed settings by any means but my standard is 50mm/s

worldly skiff
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Aye. 15mm's outer was needed due to it looking matte at higher

tranquil heron
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So if youre half the speed and 10 degrees hotter thats definitely where i would start

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Ah, yeah ok

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May be very odd filament

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If you have a spare stock of normal gray or black, something youre very used to, and some time, i would try 205c and a bit faster speeds, maybe 40mm/s? And see if that setting works for the normal stuff. Then switch and see how the same settings do on the funky stuff

tranquil heron
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That filament could also be too wet!

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That just occurred to me

worldly skiff
past oakBOT
# worldly skiff My marble pla from esun needed 245 to not string <:HAhaa:430065691463254016>

PTFE Temperatures
TL;DR: Do not heat PTFE above 230C for long periods of time, and never above 260C.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, a.k.a. PTFE, a.k.a. Teflon, is a polymer renowned for its extremely low coefficient of friction. It is used in many industrial and domestic applications, most famously in non-stick pans. Relevant to us, PTFE is used as Bowden tubing and heatbreak liners in 3D printers for ease of filament transport. This places the polymer in close contact with areas where high temperatures are routinely encountered.

PTFE will begin to pyrolyze at 220 degrees centigrade. It will begin off-gassing at significant amounts at 240. At 260, this process will have accelerated to the point where the structural integrity of your tubing will have been compromised. Most contemporary citations focus not on the physical decomposition of PTFE but on the health effects of byproducts used in its manufacture. However one major health risk is directly attributable to PTFE pyrolysis: Polymer fume fever.

Polymer fume fever, or colloquially "Teflon flu", is a condition caused by overexposure to fumes (over the course of 4-8 hours) caused by the decomposition of PTFE. The advanced respiratory metabolism of birds make them particularly sensitive to polymer fumes, which leaves them at high risk of death in environments where such fumes are prevalent. Further reading is linked below.

Further reading

sharp lagoon
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Yo be careful!